From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (dr) gel seat Date: 31 Jan 2000 23:36:42 -0800 > arne > > you are quite intitled to your opinion and that may be your style of > riding, but i have my bike more or less over land prepared and like to be > able to travel,throw the tent up, do some trails,move some where new and do > it all over. i live in scotland so i am very unlikely to travel more than > a couple of hundred miles a day, so whats the point of a bigger bikeas the > dr is well suited to me because of size weight etc. i really wantedsome > info on the colour of the gel seat just to change the look of the bike as > i have new graphics etc. > > stevie (scotland,only about 250 miles long) Sounds great... I guess the threads got mixed up. I was responding to the fellow who was looking for opinions on the Russel Day Long seat for his DR350. Cheers, Arne KLR650 Listmeister Eh 13 www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (dr) Reasons Date: 31 Jan 2000 23:42:59 -0800 > You know who you are... "You talkin' to me"? "You must be, 'cause I don't see anyone else here..." O.K. Wayne... Since nobody has done anything more than give an opinion (which is what was asked for), let's see if you can take it as well as you like to dish it out. > Some of our > "self-righteous" riding brothers seem to feel that only their type of > riding is the proper type of riding. And that the equipment they use is > the only proper type to use on "their" type of bike. Obviously you're of this breed eh Wayne? Nobody's been insulting, as far as I can see. When someone asks for an opinion - especially to a large body of people - you're bound to get a variety of answers... That's the whole idea!!! Just because some are different than yours (pray it isn't so...), that makes them "self-righteous" and "little"??? Give me a break. The world would be a pretty boring place if we all were of the same opinion. > They should stop and realize that just as there are differences in > people, there are differences in their tastes. Hello!!! Wayne!!! You're contradicting yourself here!!! Or do you agree that my riding tastes (just) might be different from your's, and that that's O.K.? You know what? There are others here who are different as well. > Not everyone has the same > advantages as they. That's for sure... After 6 knee operations (one a complete ACL re-construction), a pelvis that was broken in two places, a back that has suffered a compression fracture, and numerous broken ribs... I hurt. I know pain, and the accomodations that have to be made because of it. Yes, believe it or not, even as one of the "little" people, I've got it figured out. > I'm sure they will be the same ones to criticize me when they see the > way my DR350SE is set up. There is a strange "notch" in the center of my > seat. The bike has been lowered. I carry a large amount of drinking > water. And on and on I could go. Stop feeling sorry for yourself. People feel sorry for me too when they see my purple hand-grips... but I've learned to live with it. > They are also the people who won't be able to see the physical problems > I have. Nor you, they... Arne - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: (dr) RE: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit Date: 01 Feb 2000 17:56:33 -0800 Hi John, I always like to hear a happy customer. thanks again...Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 2:35 PM Hi Jesse, I received the carb kit last night, and I just got through installing it. Wow! I can't believe how much better the bike runs. All I was hoping for was to get rid of the crapping out over the whoops, so the extra power and crispness is pure gravy. I really apperciate how you set the carb up for me, it runs perfect. The installation was very easy with no problems. The only thing I changed, was to use allen head bolts in the float bowl, so if I ever need to change the main jet it will be easier. I also put one of the Vortex stickers on the back of the air box so people will be able to get your number if they want one. Thanks again, John "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > Hi John well you should have received the carb kit by now. Keep me posted > on the results or if you have any questions as I am here to help. > > My best regards Jesse > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Nelson [mailto:jfnelson@earthlink.net] > Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 4:27 PM > To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com > Subject: Re: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit > > Hi Jesse and Happy New Year to you too, > > I have a Yoshimura pipe on my bike, it didn't give a big increase in > power, > but it sure is pretty and it does sound nice (Not too loud, just nice and > mellow.). > I was really happy with the improved throttle response and addition power > when I > added your air box. Your Vortex airbox definitely gives you the most bang > for > the buck! > As soon as you're ready, let me know and I'll give you a call and give > you > my credit card information. Besides the new carb, it'll be nice to get rid > of > that push/pull throttle cable I have now. > > Thanks, > John > > "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > > Hi John, Happy New year to you, the answer to your Questions is yes the > main > > jets are the same and If you are having good response with your present > > jetting it should work well with the dirt carb. I should have all the > parts > > to the kit by the end of next week. I will also include the dirt (Hose) > > manifold in the kit for you. I will let you know when I have everything. > Do > > you have an aftermarket Exhaust pipe on your bike? > > > > Regards.... Jesse > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: John Nelson [mailto:jfnelson@earthlink.net] > > Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 11:51 AM > > To: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com > > Subject: Re: DR350 Dirt Carb Kit > > > > Hi Jesse, > > > > I have a 1997 DR350SE and last month I bought one of your Vortex > > airboxes (Which I love!). > > When I ordered the airbox we discussed the dirt carb and I have a couple > of > > questions. Will > > the jetting be the same (Or close) as the street carb? Are the main jets > the > > same for both > > carbs (Will the main jet in my street carb fit the dirt carb?)? > > > > Let me know when you have the kit finished, because I'm ready to dump > > that street carb as > > soon as possible. I will also need a new hose from the carb to the Vortex > > airbox. Your price > > of $330.00 for the kit sounds great. > > > > Thanks, > > John > > > > "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > > > > I just stocked a bunch of new DR350 dirt carbs and > > > am putting together a complete kit that includes every thing needed to > > make > > > the switch. a spacer to clear the starter and provide a vacuum port for > > the > > > petcock hose. a dirt carb manifold. the carb. two longer socket head > > > capscrews. and a new single cable throttle assembly and cable. the > price > > is > > > $330.00 . These carbs go for almost $300.00 alone. Just thought I would > > let > > > you know I will have the kit on the website soon....be careful new years > > > eve. > > > Regards ..Jesse > > > > > > > John Nelson > > Psychodad@cybersnet.com > > http://www.cybersnet.com > > -- > John Nelson > Psychodad@cybersnet.com > http://www.cybersnet.com -- John Nelson Psychodad@cybersnet.com http://www.cybersnet.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: (dr) Carb part.. Date: 01 Feb 2000 22:34:26 -0600 Hey Jesse (and DR list), I have heard of a T-handle type screw that replaces the mixture screw on the DR carb.. so one can adjust it wothout using a tiny screwdriver and standing on your head. I really don't need to adjust it, since I've already done so, but I figured when I go to Colorado and get into the mountains I may need mess with it.. Do you know of such a replacement screw? Or where I can buy one? I have a '98 DR650SE. If not, does anyone else on this list know? Thanks much!! JB - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com Subject: Re: (dr) Carb part.. Date: 01 Feb 2000 23:41:07 -0500 On Tue, 01 Feb 2000 22:34:26 -0600 "Jan Bradley" writes: >Hey Jesse (and DR list), > > I have heard of a T-handle type screw that replaces >the mixture screw on the DR carb.. so one can adjust it wothout using >a >tiny screwdriver and standing on your head. I really don't need to >adjust it, since I've already done so, but I figured when I go to >Colorado and get into the mountains I may need mess with it.. Do you >know of such a replacement screw? Or where I can buy one? I have a >'98 >DR650SE. If not, does anyone else on this list know? Thanks much!! > >JB JB, Scott's performance makes the T-handle Fuel Mixture Screw you seek. You can order one from our shop, Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia, by calling Andy or Ronnie at (704) 867-1273. Or, you can order on directly from Scott's. They have a website with online shopping or you can e-mail owner Scott Forward at : scott@scottsperformance.com Happy trails, Al C. Al Roof Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc. Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle Association, Inc. Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle Conservation Council, Inc. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MuNcHmAn Subject: (dr) Introduction Date: 02 Feb 2000 01:31:45 -0800 Hello list, I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some changes to my bike. Mike Hyers - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen Subject: (dr) oil consumption Date: 02 Feb 2000 11:49:21 Hello all DR fanatics!! My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, even when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that?= =20 Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time. What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck?=20 I=B4m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is the case?=20 Is there any point in doing a compression test? Thanks in advance! Markus=20 Skellefte=E5, Sweden - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) oil consumption Date: 02 Feb 2000 15:06:41 +0100 Hello. I have a DR350SE =B499 (european model), and the consumtion of my = bike was 0. It has 22.000 km (about 15000 milles), and in this time I added ab= out 400 cc (I have a 1 liter bottle, and in this time, it has 600 cc). I thin= k it=B4s very good. I change the oil every 6000 km (4000 milles) how the ma= nual indicate, and never the oil level down of the 3/4 of the full oil range betweenn oil changes. I think that a bike with 5000 km doesn=B4t must spend a lot oil (or nothing)... but if your ride are heavy (lot rpm constantly) it=B4s possib= le. But some week ago, in a long and hard excursion, it spent some oil in a = day (+- 75cc) (it was about 300-350 km, in on road, speeds of 120-130 km/h (+-75-85 mph) and rpm about 6500-7500 constantly, and offroad (hard terrain,), a lot of rpm constantly... the trip was about 10 hours NON STO= P. In this excursion, the level down some the top of the level (3/4 of full level). I think that high rpm constantly (on road principaly) does the oi= l consumption up. (every 6000 km, the level down a bit, but in hard dual-sporting, the level can down if it=B4s a lot of time non stop) When you use the bike a rpm low-middle (rpm between 3500 to 5500), i thin= k that there isn=B4t problem with the consumption, (well, the oil consumpti= on could be 0). I used a mineral oil, but how the bike doesn=B4t spend oil, I change to syntetic oil (MOTUL 2000 to TENCOSINTESE MOTUL 3100, the oil recomended t= o Suzuki 4T bikes in Europe). I had ear that mineral oil does the monocilindric bikes don=B4t spend too oil, and the syntetic oil , the mon= o bikes spend it more easy. But with this oil MOTUL 3100, the bike is ok. The first is the clutch. Wi= th mineral oil (car oil MOTUL2000, specs SH) it doesn=B4t work fine... but w= ith the 3100 it works OK, soft, the hot doesn=B4t affect it easily (this oil = have additives for the motorbikes clutchs and engine components of 4T bikes... and it works). I think the bike is fine now. The oil is more expensive (s= ome a bit, in 2 liters the difference isn=B4t a lot), but I will use this oil always. (but if the bike spend oil, the best option is a mineral oil, you= r bike, i think, spend less oil... and for refill, it=B4s more cheap) Bye (and sorry for my BAD english... ) These are the specification of the MOTUL 3100 (now the new MOTUL 5100) 10W40, 15W50 et 20W40 Technosynth=E8se =AE The extreme pressure additives necessery for integrated gearboxes protect= s gears and brackets, smoothes out gear changes reduces transmission jerkin= ess EVERY USE MOTUL oils are not only for racing, however. The same technical expertise= is available to riders who demand high-level performance and reliability fro= m the motorcycle they use as their daily vehicle. A Technosynth=E8se=AE lubricant that is based on synthetic basestocks, wi= th advanced lubrication qualities that reduce the wear on moving parts and improve an engine=92s durability. The extreme-pressure additives necessar= y for integrated gearboxes protects gears and brackets, smoothes out gear chang= es and reduces transmission jerkiness. Perfectly lubricated, the engine is protected against dirt clogging by the highly detersive and dispersive properties of 3100 4T lubricants: every oil change evacuates combustion residues. This periodic cleansing of the engine keeps the clutch clean fo= r smooth, rattle-free operation. 3100 4T Technosynth=E8se=AE 10W40, 15W50, = 20W40. http://www.motul.com/nouvelle_gamme_moto/4T.htm here you have the new li= ne of MOTUL moto 4T. _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo (3000 hints :) ) -----Mensaje original----- De: Markus LIndrgen Para: dr@lists.xmission.com Fecha: mi=E9rcoles 2 de febrero de 2000 12:57 Asunto: (dr) oil consumption Hello all DR fanatics!! My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, eve= n when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that= ? Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time. What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck? I=B4m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is t= he case? Is there any point in doing a compression test? Thanks in advance! Markus Skellefte=E5, Sweden - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction Date: 02 Feb 2000 06:52:15 -0800 Hi Mike, this is Jesse I am located in Grants Pass and I can give you a few tips on the Jetting as well as to the modification to your stock airbox. I would need to know if you have any exhaust modifications as it would make a difference in the jetting. My Phone no is 541 472-0835 if you feel like giving me a call. My best regards ..Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of MuNcHmAn Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:32 AM Hello list, I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some changes to my bike. Mike Hyers - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) oil consumption Date: 02 Feb 2000 07:11:46 -0800 HI Markus, there are several factors that could cause this. If the bike was ran too slow during break-in it could cause the cylinder walls to glaze or surface harden prior to the rings seating. This would result in miniscule gaps between the cylinder walls and the rings. With oil seeping up into this area in larger amounts it could be creating larger amounts of carbon around the rings inhibiting their ability to move in and out and follow the cylinder wall, so the oil consumption increases and will continue to do so until the engine is tore down and checked for wear and any problems corrected. Regards....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Markus LIndrgen Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:49 AM Hello all DR fanatics!! My DR S -92 has started to use a lot of oil. It has always used some, even when I bought it with only 5900 km on it. First, can someone explain that? Now it seems like the oil consumption has gone up much in a short time. What can be causing this? Is it possible that the oil ring has stuck? I´m not sure but I think this started about the same time I changed to another brand of engine oil. I`ve read that some oils actually can clean out to much carbon from a worn engine causing a poor seal.Maybe this is the case? Is there any point in doing a compression test? Thanks in advance! Markus Skellefteċ, Sweden - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Ballou Subject: (dr) Break in Date: 02 Feb 2000 10:38:57 -0500 I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike. Thanks Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Break in Date: 02 Feb 2000 08:42:37 -0800 Hi Mike, I used to be a Suzuki dealer, and the fish oil that was in the bike was more of a preservative. We would drain that out and refill the crankcase with castrol gtx 10-40. This was with Suzuki's blessing. As far as break-in goes two tanks of gas at moderate trail riding, with no lugging or high revs but varied speeds should do the trick. Regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Mike Ballou Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:39 AM I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike. Thanks Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Ballou Subject: (dr) RE: (Dr) Break in Date: 02 Feb 2000 12:00:00 -0500 Thanks Jesse That sounds simple enough. I am still trying to decide between the 400E and the 400S. I have sat on the 400E in the dealer and it seems a little tall compared with my DR250s. I'm going to the show in NY this weekend to see both and will decide then. I already traded in my old DR, so I'll need a new one soon. Mike -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 11:43 AM Hi Mike, I used to be a Suzuki dealer, and the fish oil that was in the bike was more of a preservative. We would drain that out and refill the crankcase with castrol gtx 10-40. This was with Suzuki's blessing. As far as break-in goes two tanks of gas at moderate trail riding, with no lugging or high revs but varied speeds should do the trick. Regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Mike Ballou Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 7:39 AM I will be getting a new DRz400 in the next couple of weeks and was wondering about the break-in. The dealer said that the bike comes from Suzuki with a very light oil (fish oil is what he called it) and they would replace during prep. Is this break-in oil and should it be run with it in the bike for a while? I have also heard that you should heat cycle the bike a few times and then change the oil before riding. What is the best method for breaking -in a new bike for long term durability. I will not be racing the bike. Thanks Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: rherrscher@Opto22.com Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction Date: 02 Feb 2000 09:40:22 -0800 Hi Mike, As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch regarding the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical device that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit in the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to get some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis Kirk, Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc. One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt the socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because turn signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this will be a problem. Best Regards, Roger Herrscher -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM << File: header.txt >> Hello list, I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some changes to my bike. Mike Hyers - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: RE: (dr) Introduction Date: 02 Feb 2000 15:47:43 -0600 Hey Roger, Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to be dangerous... JB >>> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>> Hi Mike, As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch regarding the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical device that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit in the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to get some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis Kirk, Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc. One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt the socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because turn signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this will be a problem. Best Regards, Roger Herrscher -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM << File: header.txt >> Hello list, I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some changes to my bike. Mike Hyers - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: rherrscher@Opto22.com Subject: RE: RE: (dr) Introduction Date: 02 Feb 2000 14:43:16 -0800 Hi Jan, You could put a resistor in parallel (not in series) with the lower wattage light bulbs, but that is alot more work than simply getting higher wattage light bulbs. You would have to splice into the wiring to add the resistors. If you really wanted to do this with resistors, you would have to measure the current (Amperage) of the original light bulbs while they were on. Then you would have to do the same for the new smaller light bulbs. Then you could calculate the size of resistor that you would need by using the three formulas below: Original bulb current - smaller bulb current = difference in current. 12 Volts / (difference in current) = resistor value in ohms. Use this value or the next standard lower value. 144 / (resistor value in ohms) = power rating of resistor in watts. Use this value or the next standard higher value. Because motorcycles are subject to a lot of vibration, water, mud, etc., all of which are hard on electrical connections, I personally would try to avoid the resistor method because it requires additional electrical connections. Good Luck. Best Regards, Roger Herrscher -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:40 PM << File: header.txt >> Hey Roger, Tell him how to put a resistor in the line to duplicate the bigger bulb.. wouldn't that work? I have no idea of what size or value of resistor to use, as I know enough about electricity to be dangerous... JB >>> 02/02/00 11:40AM >>> Hi Mike, As a degreed electrical engineer I can tell you that your hunch regarding the new smaller turn signals was correct. The new smaller turn signals probably have lower wattage bulbs in them. This means at the same voltage (12VDC) they will consume less current (amperage) than the original turn signals. The flasher relay is an electro-mechanical device that needs a certain amount of load current to work correctly. The new smaller turn signals consume less current, so the flasher doesn't work correctly. A possible solution is to try to get replacement bulbs for the new turn signals that are the same wattage as the original Suzuki turn signals. Maybe the bulbs from the original turn signals will fit in the new smaller replacement turn signals. If not, you may be able to get some higher wattage bulbs from a catalog such as Chapparal, Dennis Kirk, Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, etc. One concern about putting higher wattage bulbs in the new smaller turn signals, is that higher wattage bulbs generate more heat and may melt the socket, housing, or lense of the new smaller turn signals. Because turn signals are used intermittantly and not on constantly, I doubt this will be a problem. Best Regards, Roger Herrscher -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2000 1:37 AM << File: header.txt >> Hello list, I've got a couple of questions for the list but first a brief intro. My name is mike and I live in Ashland Oregon, (20 miles from the California border). I bought a 1993 dr350s about six months ago and have been puting the bike and myself through the paces trying to figure out it's limitations (and my own). So far all I've done is remove the fender extension and mount a smaller (maier) brake light on the fender along with my plate. I've replaced the short shift lever with a longer more tucked in version by baja-designs. I also swapped out my stock turn signals for smaller lo-profile blinkers. Thats were part of the problem started. The blinkers I bought use a smaller bulb and I am assuming less amperage. They dont blink very well unless I'm on the brakes or at higher rpm's. I am looking for replacements that will actually blink,(local law enforcement will nail me for it eventually), if anyone has any experience with small blinkers that work well and wont self destruct please let me know. I have also pulled the plug out of the airbox with a noticeably improvement in power. Next week I'm planning on cutting the top out (until I can afford a vortex) rejetting and installing the t-handle from scotts. I know the main is a 135 and the pilot is a 37.5. If anyone has recomendations on what to try please let me know. Thanks for this list and all your posts, I've learned alot by lurking here and all your ideas and mods have inspired me to make some changes to my bike. Mike Hyers - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: (dr) 2000 Utah Get-Together Date: 02 Feb 2000 17:41:33 -0800 The Dual Sport News web site has been updated with the details of the 2000 Utah Get-Together. You can see the rally information page at... http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page54.html You can also check out my site on the Utah rally at... http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/rally.html See you there. Fred - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650 Date: 03 Feb 2000 06:47:24 -0700 I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for free). Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining. So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim stack. Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads and trails... Many thanks, Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650 Date: 03 Feb 2000 06:36:29 -0800 I would go for the gold Kurt,I have installed them and you can select your valving stack better with the gold valve In my opinion any way. The type III anodizing is better than what was on there so you are better off with it.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Kurt Simpson Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 5:47 AM I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for free). Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining. So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim stack. Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads and trails... Many thanks, Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650 Date: 03 Feb 2000 09:12:00 -0800 > Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a > Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. If this it the case, go for CONTROL. Control = safety off road. > What I'm after is to make the DR > into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in > relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads > and trails... It will already do pavement in relative comfort right? Ask BB if this is a truley measurable, noticable difference... or if it's more of a theoretical one... If the latter, go with the one that offers the most suspension improvement/adjustment, at the best price, which is the easiest to tweak and use... If there is such a thing... LOL Sorry for confusing matters. =^) Arne - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650 Date: 03 Feb 2000 10:40:40 -0800 Kurt, I don't know the first thing about DR650s, but I'll add my experience with my DR350 and DR350SE: The fact that you're considering a cartridge fork emulator means to me that you have a damping rod fork right now. If that's the case, then I see only two options: 1) Install a cartridge fork emulator 2) Do the full cartridge conversion As far as option #1 goes, I would definitely recommend it. I did this to my '97 SE, and the change was significant. Yes, you need to remove the fork cap, springs, and the emulator in order to adjust compression damping, and you generally need to change the oil to adjust rebound, but the former can quite easily be done with the forks mounted on the bike. Gold Valves, I thought, are only for cartridge-type forks. I've installed them both front and back on my DR350, and am quite pleased with them. One word: PLUSH!! You end up with a highly-customized suspension for you, your riding style, abilities, desires, etc. The installation is simple and straight-forward, something that any one with modest mechanical abilities can tackle. (I have a write-up on doing the shock if anyone is interested.) Like I said, I could be way off on the DR650, but I hope this helps. Bryan Sacramento '96 DR441 Kurt Simpson wrote: > > I need some help. Bob Bell is working on my forks (he made a mistake and send them to > the anodizer when they didn't need it so I guess I'm getting hard anodizing for > free). > > Unlike the DR350, a full cartridge conversion is not possible without some machining. > So, I have two choices. One to install a cartridge emulator that is adjustable only > by removing the fork cap and spring. Or to install a gold valve with a custom shim > stack. > > Which way should I go? Bob says the gold valve option makes the ride a little like a > Cadillac while the emulator gives you more control. What I'm after is to make the DR > into a more dirt worthy KLR type "adventure tourer" able to travel long distances in > relative comfort (pavement) but jump off the pavement to explore dirt/gravel roads > and trails... > > Many thanks, > > Kurt > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: (dr) Seat cover for DR650 (93-94) Date: 03 Feb 2000 21:19:23 +0100 Where I can found a seat cover for a DR650 year 93-94? (an URL where they sell it, if it=B4s possible, with a pic of the seat cover... I tried in baja designs, but there isn=B4t anything...) Thank you _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator Date: 03 Feb 2000 13:56:16 -0800 Dan, I'm fairly certain that a '94 DR350S has damping rods. The cartridge fork emulator is what you'd want. The damping rod is attached to the bottom of the fork, so you wouldn't see it unless you disassembled your forks. Instructions for installation are included with the emulators; it's a simple installation as long as you have an impact wrench. Without one, it's nearly impossible to loosen the damping rod bolt during disassembly, and even tougher to tighten it again at the end (my experience, anyway). You do end up drilling out some of the holes in the damping rod (to allow the emulator, not the orifice size, to control the damping.) My recommendation: The emulator and stronger springs up front; Kouba links and a stiffer spring in the rear. You can size your front springs on the RaceTech web site. Contact Norm for the latter plus his spring recommendation. Bryan Dan Schewe wrote: > > Bryan, > I have a '94 DR350S - I don't think this bike has forks with dampening rods. > Do you know if a cartridge fork emulator can be used with this fork? > > If I understand correctly, a dampening rod fork can be distinguished by the > internal rod that screws into the top cap (which mine do not have). If this > is the case, how is the cartridge fork emulator unit installed? Does the > dampening rod need to be removed first? I guess none of this applies to my > bike, but I'm curious. > > If emulators can be installed in forks without dampening rods - is there any > modifications that need to be made to the forks oil passages? > > Lastly, I appreciate seeing your write-up for the gold valve for the rear > shock. Again, this may not apply to my bike as I only have a rebound > adjuster. I ask this because I'm looking at available shock modifications > that would help prevent the rear end from packing when riding over washboard > trails. > > Dan > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:] On Behalf Of Bryan Cowger > Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 12:41 PM > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr) Gold Valve or Cartridge Emulator...Project DR650 > > Kurt, > > I don't know the first thing about DR650s, but I'll add my experience > with my DR350 and DR350SE: > > The fact that you're considering a cartridge fork emulator means to me > that you have a damping rod fork right now. If that's the case, then I > see only two options: > > 1) Install a cartridge fork emulator > 2) Do the full cartridge conversion > > As far as option #1 goes, I would definitely recommend it. I did this > to my '97 SE, and the change was significant. > > Yes, you need to remove the fork cap, springs, and the emulator in order > to adjust compression damping, and you generally need to change the oil > to adjust rebound, but the former can quite easily be done with the > forks mounted on the bike. > > Gold Valves, I thought, are only for cartridge-type forks. I've > installed them both front and back on my DR350, and am quite pleased > with them. One word: PLUSH!! You end up with a highly-customized > suspension for you, your riding style, abilities, desires, etc. > > The installation is simple and straight-forward, something that any one > with modest mechanical abilities can tackle. (I have a write-up on > doing the shock if anyone is interested.) > > Like I said, I could be way off on the DR650, but I hope this helps. > > Bryan > Sacramento > '96 DR441 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: (dr) DR forks for sale Date: 04 Feb 2000 13:11:02 EST To all you guys who answered my ad, sorry Chris Bruno in MA was first outof the gate to answer so he gets em... reason I'm selling them is to help pay for my RM fork swap project!! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: (dr) DR650SE gel seat Date: 04 Feb 2000 16:55:39 -0600 Hello DR listers.. I purchased a Gel seat for my 1998 DR650 at my dealer. Well, long story short, the seat from Suzuki (from Travelcade) is about 1.25 inches shorter than stock. I returned it to my dealer a couple of days ago (they weren't super happy, since they special ordered it..) and now I am waiting for the same cover and stock height foam from Travvelcade. I am pretty normal size and the shorter seat didn't give me enough seat-to-peg room. Anyway, what I am getting at is, my dealer now has a new gel seat that they would like to sell. I told them I would ask on the list, since they were kind enough to take it back. If you are thinking of getting a gel seat that is a bit lower, give them a call. I'm sure they would sell it for much less than retail. It is yellow on the front edge, black spandura in the middle (most of the seat) and purple on the back edge. Their name and number is below..ask for Suzuki parts and ask for Steve. Dreyer Cycle (Indianapolis, IN) 317.243.2203 Thanks, JB - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" Subject: (dr) DR650 rear wheel for sale Date: 04 Feb 2000 15:18:48 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF6F23.2262C4E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Greetings, all -=20 Having recently swapped a 95 DR650 for a 97, I have an extra rear wheel = for sale. It will fit a 90-95, and is complete with a newly turned = disc, relatively new sprocket and new bearing on the carrier. The rim = is in great shape. Offers? Also, anyone out there know where to pick up extra wheels for the newer = (96-) DR650's? I'd love to have a second set for the new bike. Thanks -=20 Lisa '97 DR650 "Doc" ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF6F23.2262C4E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Greetings, all -
 
Having recently swapped a 95 DR650 for a 97, I have = an extra=20 rear wheel for sale.  It will fit a 90-95, and is complete with a = newly=20 turned disc, relatively new sprocket and new bearing on the = carrier.  The=20 rim is in great shape.  Offers?
 
Also, anyone out there know where to pick up extra = wheels for=20 the newer (96-) DR650's?  I'd love to have a second set for the new = bike.
 
Thanks -
 
Lisa
 
'97 DR650 "Doc"
------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BF6F23.2262C4E0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "The Clouser Family" Subject: (dr) Information Request Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:08:37 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BF6F43.3D5473A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 = weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden Spectro. = Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using synthetic versus stock? Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging = that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone = had any experience with slime or have knowledge about handling or = performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.? ------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BF6F43.3D5473A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I am looking for information on = changing from my=20 stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile = One or=20 Golden Spectro.  Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using = synthetic=20 versus stock?
 
Also, I have purchased slime and = slime tubes and=20 read on the packaging that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles = per=20 hour.  Has anyone had any experience with slime or have knowledge = about=20 handling or performance at speeds above 75 = m.p.h.?
------=_NextPart_000_005D_01BF6F43.3D5473A0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:45:01 -0600 I use Golden Spectro synthetic blend, but only after I put about 2k miles on to break it in real good. I think it is about the best..although, if you ask 20 people their oil opinion, you'll get 20 answers. None are wrong. Pick a name brand motorcycle oil, and you pretty much can't go wrong.. My 2 cents worth.. JB >>> "The Clouser Family" 02/04/00 06:08PM >>> I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden Spectro. Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using synthetic versus stock? Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone had any experience with slime or have knowledge about handling or performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:55:50 EST I have never tried synthetic myself but every thing I have read (including this list) has said that synthetic oil is to slick for your clutch to work properly. In short it may cause it to slip. Hope this helps. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: (dr) Fwd: Greens are getting clobbered in their own poll Date: 04 Feb 2000 20:57:33 EST --part1_be.1157b88.25ccdd8d_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 2/4/2000 2:51:49 PM Central Standard Time, Jack 5588 writes: << Go vote. This is one of the most hilarious things I have seen. The poll is at Environmental News Network(ENN). Their own poll is getting HAMMERED, like 80% against their side. I wonder how that happened :) Also check out the Discussion side. There are some great points being put up and almost ALL are from dirt bike riders!! Especially check out "Roadless Thoughts in Montana" in the discussion side (it's down pretty far...keep looking) Bill "Watchdog" (ruff ruff) Malec ================================= From Jack: The hyperlink is below. When you get to the home page, you'll see the voting box on the right hand side. When you click "No", give it a few seconds, and it will pop up the current voting numbers. After you do so, just below the voting box is a link to a threaded discussion group. Click that box and you'll go to a page where you can insert your own comments, or you can click the link to go look at other comments. Click here: Candidates' stances on public lands issues - 2/1/2000 - Features - Environmental News Network - Your leading news http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp >> --part1_be.1157b88.25ccdd8d_boundary Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: Jack5588@aol.com Full-name: Jack 5588 Message-ID: <70.ef59ab.25cc95e5@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 38 Go vote. This is one of the most hilarious things I have seen. The poll is at Environmental News Network(ENN). Their own poll is getting HAMMERED, like 80% against their side. I wonder how that happened :) Also check out the Discussion side. There are some great points being put up and almost ALL are from dirt bike riders!! Especially check out "Roadless Thoughts in Montana" in the discussion side (it's down pretty far...keep looking) Bill "Watchdog" (ruff ruff) Malec ================================= From Jack: The hyperlink is below. When you get to the home page, you'll see the voting box on the right hand side. When you click "No", give it a few seconds, and it will pop up the current voting numbers. After you do so, just below the voting box is a link to a threaded discussion group. Click that box and you'll go to a page where you can insert your own comments, or you can click the link to go look at other comments. C lick here: Candidates' stances on public lands issues - 2/1/2000 - Features - Environmental News Network - Your leading news http://www.enn.com/features/2000/02/02012000/candidatespl_9120.asp --part1_be.1157b88.25ccdd8d_boundary-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steven McGarry Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request Date: 04 Feb 2000 21:13:40 -0500 i am running synthetic oil and never had any problems. stevie - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:24:02 -0700 Hi, please change your email format when sending to the list to "plain text" only. Anything else raises havoc with the digest version of the list...thanks Kurt ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 5:08 PM I am looking for information on changing from my stock oil (Suzuki 10/40 weight oil) to a synthetic oil such as Mobile One or Golden Spectro. Can anyone supply me with pros/cons to using synthetic versus stock? Also, I have purchased slime and slime tubes and read on the packaging that it is not safe to use at speeds over 75 miles per hour. Has anyone had any experience with slime or have knowledge about handling or performance at speeds above 75 m.p.h.? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Date: 04 Feb 2000 19:56:02 -0800 List, Synthetic oils are wonderful......for the proper application. My wife is associated very closely with the oil industry, and therefore I have occasion to talk with sales people, engineers, and higher management in the oil companies. Every one of them says the same thing, synthetic oils are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money, it just isn't necessary. Regular modern oils are quite good, and more than adequate for the use we give them in motorcycles, but across the line, use the higher grades of any of them. If you're worried, change it twice as often as is recommended, you still won't spend as much. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: RE:(dr)information request Date: 05 Feb 2000 05:49:15 -0800 (PST) I use Castrol full synthetic with no problems except in real cold weather the clutch will slip a bit until the motor is fully warmed up and then its gone.I was told by my local dealer the Castrol does not use a certain additive(do not remember the name it was long though) that promotes slippage that other brands do.It's 10 bucks a qrt but my bike is worth it.I would recommend it to anyone. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug B Subject: RE: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Date: 05 Feb 2000 07:18:59 -0800 I change the oil in my 94 350SE every 1000 miles. Doug -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 04, 2000 7:56 PM List, Synthetic oils are wonderful......for the proper application. My wife is associated very closely with the oil industry, and therefore I have occasion to talk with sales people, engineers, and higher management in the oil companies. Every one of them says the same thing, synthetic oils are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money, it just isn't necessary. Regular modern oils are quite good, and more than adequate for the use we give them in motorcycles, but across the line, use the higher grades of any of them. If you're worried, change it twice as often as is recommended, you still won't spend as much. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) Gold Valve misinformation... Date: 05 Feb 2000 11:04:08 -0700 I want to correct my earlier post. A couple of hours of education as helped me see the error of my ways. I wrote earlier about trying to make a choice with my DR650SE forks and which option to use. My post was in error. The choice I face is this: to either retain the conventional damping system (with adjustments for balance and orifice size) or to install a "Gold Valve Cartridge Emulator" system...where essentially the damping rod is opened up and the work is done by the installed unit sitting on top of the old rod. "Gold Valves" are only for cartridge style forks where the Gold Valve replaces the OEM valving unit. FWIW, the DR350 forks for my '97 (pre OEM cartridge) can be altered with an emulator kit or a complete cartridge conversion for a little less than $400 not counting new springs. So, I think I have it right and apolgize for the confusion. So, now the question is whether a non-aggressive rider who wishes to have a mostly pavement dual sport "adventurer tourer" should work with the existing damping system or go to the emulator system. This question would apply equally to KLR riders who have the same choice as the DR650 except that the KLR forks are 4mm less in diameter. Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 05 Feb 2000 21:56:53 +0200 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened = clutchcover yet) If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new = ones,when changing worn friction plates, or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my = stock 5cd27 I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. = Thanks for the great list = Mikko from Finland = DR350SE-97 = yamaha wr250-92 ------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi
Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions.
Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't = opened=20 clutchcover yet)
If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the = new=20 ones,when changing worn friction plates,
or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed.
 
How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer = than my=20 stock 5cd27
 
I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions.
 
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;      Thanks=20 for the great list
 
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;=20 Mikko from Finland
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp;=20 DR350SE-97
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =             &= nbsp; yamaha=20 wr250-92
------=_NextPart_000_002D_01BF7023.E9783A00-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bucknam Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Date: 05 Feb 2000 14:12:41 -0800 Wayne Marsula tells us: >[...]synthetic oils >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money... I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too old,' or 'not good enough'? But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing? Commercial vehicles? Brian - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Information Request - Synthetic Oils Date: 05 Feb 2000 17:06:18 -0800 Brian Bucknam wrote: > > Wayne Marsula tells us: > >[...]synthetic oils > >are wonderful in their proper use, However, there are few applications > >where they are cost effective in over-the-road vehicles. > > It won't hurt your vehicle to run it, but you are wasting your money... > > I basically agree with your statement that using normal, high-grade oil is > the most cost-effective lubrication method. When is the last time any one > of us has experienced mechanical difficulties because the oil was 'too > old,' or 'not good enough'? > > But I am curious: Just what is the "proper" use of synthetic oil? Racing? > Commercial vehicles? > > Brian Brian, Right on! Those are the two best uses for synthetic oils, some stationary engines also. But to take this a step further, I use semi-synthetic oils, engine permitting. It is a real petroleum based oil, not really a synthetic, but an "enhanced" oil. Find it works quite well, definitely "looks" cleaner, and feels better when drained than standard oils. I use Valvoline DuoBlend, other manufacturers also have similar oils. Wayne - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steven McGarry Subject: (dr) drz400e Date: 05 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500 i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on= a dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel. a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: joseph hart Subject: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: 05 Feb 2000 21:46:56 -0600 Kurt, Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on your KLR. Thanks in Advance, Joe - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e Date: 05 Feb 2000 19:56:03 -0800 (PST) --- Steven McGarry wrote: > > > > > i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz > 400e and they put it on a > dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear > wheel. > a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. > >I'd be hard pressed to buy this one since a stock DR350 can put up numbers close to that. > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "James Alan Tomkins" Subject: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion Date: 06 Feb 2000 02:01:43 -0500 I just signed up to this list server about a week ago and would like to say hello to everyone. I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring, which I usually do. Furthermore, it takes less than 10 minutes do it. About the same amount of time it takes to finish that first beer after a long ride. I'll bet the inside of my case looks much better than anyone running synthetic oil for 1000+ miles. Additionally, the oil cooler on the 650 helps with heat dissipation which I believe further negates the need for synthetic oils. It's one of the main reasons I didn't buy a 350. Jim - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion Date: 05 Feb 2000 23:28:48 -0800 James Alan Tomkins wrote: > > I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on > synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 > miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes > (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor > oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in > Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me > about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring, > which I usually do. Hi Jim, Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but it really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: (dr) Nipples and Zerks Date: 06 Feb 2000 00:03:11 -0800 >This topic was briefly touched upon last year, but nothing substantial ever >landed in the archives... > >Has anyone successfully installed grease nipples in the steering head and >swing-arms of their .....s? If so we need the details, details, details... I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess IMHO. Make sure any seals related to the greased bearing can pass the old grease. Would be bad to push the seals out at first greasing. Also verify that you won't be filling other frame tubes with grease thru welding vents. Suspension bearings are a different story. I've cut into the bearings with a dremel, drilled passages, and installed zerks on every bike I've owned, and never have had to replace any suspension bearings, even living in the wet Northwest. Sometimes there's no room for a zerk, so you just press a "cone fitting" into the drilled hole. This is for hardcore craftsmen only. You have to be able to discern the "no-load" directions of each bearing before grinding holes into them. To pierce the bearing, use a dremel with the "cutoff wheel". Grind a narrow slot (very carefully) until the metal becomes paper-thin and discolors. Don't break thru . Stop grinding, wash away all the grinding dust, and break out the thin metal with a sharp tool. Drill your passageways, and remember you have to provide a method for the old grease to exit past the seals. The pressure might ruin some kinds of seals which are not designed to let pressure pass. You might have to loosen pivot bolts before greasing. After pumping the new grease in, just cover the hole with silicone. It works. Silicone adheres to metal right thru grease, which is hard to believe until you try it. Very satisfying to hear the snap crackle pop of new grease pushing out the old grease (and sometimes water). Or just disassemble the thing and reassemble with waterproof grease once a year. Tom +-------------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products | 701 34th Ave | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | | Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc | e-mail: moto@cycoactive.com | tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016 +-------------------------------------------+ - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Andrew Spooner" Subject: (dr) DR350 Swingarm Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:47:31 -0000 I recently took my 93 DR350 to the my local Suzuki garage in the UK. They have been poor to date, but in the last 6 months they employed a young mechanic who has been racing DR's in the USA and seems to really know his bikes. Like a lot of people on the list, I've taken great pleasure in trying to perfect the original machine with many aftermarket parts and i've really wanted somebody local to chat things over with and check my mods from time to time. (problem this time round was a dirty carb and I could kick myself for not checking it) best thing to come out of it is I've know got someone local to discuss problems etc with. I have two reasons for the above comments 1) It's very hard to find somebody near where I live who offers a great deal of experience and creative ideas. Apart from Taylor Racing in Chippenham, who are a long way from where I live, I find it very hard to get help in the UK. If anyone else lives near south west London and wants details of the garage then please mail me and i'll send you the details. 2) The mechanic in question told me the bikes Swingarm is short and is fine for road work (for the time being it's used as my winter bike to work, therefore perfect), if I go offroad he suggest a longer swingarm and different gearing. Gearing is fully understood and not a problem, know this may show my inexperience, but what options do I have with the Swingarm? who's known for producing the best equipment, and what setups do you guys on the list have. Is it really an issue or will I be just spending money for nothing? I only ever intended the bike to do recreational off road riding. Thanks for any advice, Andrew Spooner 93 DR350 98 CBR900RRW (until someone stole it last weekend - but I live in hope) 60's Triumph TigerCub + AJS - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr) Mime-Version: 1.0 Date: 05 Feb 2000 23:40:45 -0700 > Is your Corbin on your DR650 as wide and as comfortable as the corbin on > your KLR. Hi Joe, the back is in 200 pieces at the moment...but it should start coming back together soon. The Corbin is every bit as wide and I think it is going to work great. I'll let you know. Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) DR650 update... Date: 06 Feb 2000 07:51:43 -0700 Just a couple of notes. In working through my suspension rework, I contacted Elden Carl who is the number one KLR knowledge base and a technical writer for Dual Sport News. He had some good things to say about the DR650 and finally came out and send it would be his bike of choice if the cockpit accomodated a larger rider. He is 6' 1". I'm 5' 91/2"... I'm marveling how this bike is put together. Take the front countershaft sprocket for example. On my KLR I had to use a three foot cheater bar (an air wrench would've been more elegant) and a 27 mm socket to loosen the countershaft nut to change sprockets. On the DR it is a very simple and clever design. Remove three bolts (10mm head) now take the lock plate and rotate it just a few degrees clockwise and remove it. Now take off the sprocket. What you now see is only the shaft coming out of the engine. In other words, the shaft has a slot in it for the lock plate to rotate and then the sprocket becomes the "back plate" for its own attachment. I'm certain that is clear as mud but it is very clever and a delight. I can now carry a 14T sprocket with me while running a 16T front and be able to change the gearing on arrival in less than a 1/2 hour with the eccentric chain adjusters.... I took delivery of the Trapp IDS 2 can and mid-pipe. The construction seems improved since my list IDS 1. The Trapp label is now riveted instead of a label that everyone found peeled off leaving a mess behind. It looks like I'll save 5-7 lbs over the OEM. I'm very tempted to try the Two Brothers setup...if I can talk them into doing an evaluation for Dual Sport News I'm all set (g)... Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) List notes... Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:02:34 -0700 The dr list has grown steadily in the past year and is now standing at 225. I continue to expect it to grow. In the past weeks we've expanded from the original dr350 list to all DR's. I think it is working fine and advise all listers to put a bike identifier in all caps in the subject line so filters can be used. So: "DR650" "DR350" "DR200" . The recent thread on synthetics is an example of "crossover" info that is helpful to everyone. As some of you know, I'm the editor of Dual Sport News. I took it over in partnership with Ron LaMantia of Redondo Beach, CA a few months ago after Gino Pokluda decided to take a breather. Ron and I are working hard to expand the subscription base by ensuring that it is an "all-brands" publication and attempting to improve its format. In the "real" world I work in the not-for-profit arena developing relationships with volunteers. It is natural for me to start something and then hand it off and let others gain the thrill of ownership and leadership. So, with this long message I'm very pleased to announce that Mike Brock, dual sport and Suzuki DR enthusiast has volunteered to take over as moderator of the DR list. Mike and I have corresponded on a variety of other lists and he recently started a Suzuki dual sport list at another location. I asked him if he would like to combine efforts and he said yes so he's bringing his subscribers over and taking over the helm so I can get back to work editing DSN. I'll continue to be an active participant on the list but Mike will be the new guiding force. I'll let him introduce himself. Thanks for your help in getting the DR list off to a good start and please give Mike the same courtesy and cooperation you gave to me... Kurt Simpson Editor Dual Sport News www.dualsport.org - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr) DR650 update... Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:04:44 -0700 > Remove three bolts (10mm head) now take the lock plate and rotate it just a >few degrees clockwise and remove it. Now take off the sprocket. What you >now see is only oops should've been counterclockwise... Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: (dr) DR Date: 06 Feb 2000 08:08:18 -0800 Kurt, > Mike and I have corresponded on a variety of other lists and he recently started a > Suzuki dual sport list at another location. I asked him if he would like to combine > efforts and he said yes so he's bringing his subscribers over and taking over the > helm so I can get back to work editing DSN. > Thanks for all your hard work on the DR List. I hope that everyone on the list will (continue) to support your other endeavor, Dual Sport News. It is an important publication to our sport, and very informative. Best of luck to you in that pursuit, and welcome aboard to Mike Brock. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "jnugent" <2jnugent@prodigy.net> Subject: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma Date: 06 Feb 2000 12:04:46 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello, I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I = have tried all the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know = were I could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was = thinking about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I = have a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit = from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated. =20 Thanks, Jim Nugent ------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello,
I have come to find out that the fmf = mega max has=20 been discontinued. I have tried all
the mail order places but no one has = any left in=20 stock. Does anyone know were I
could find one? Or does anyone know of = a suitable=20 replacement? I was thinking
about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have = any=20 experience with this pipe? I have
a 97 350 se and am going to modify the = stock box=20 and install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions would be=20 appreciated.
          &nbs= p;            = ;         =20
          &nbs= p;            = ;            = =20 Thanks, Jim Nugent
 
------=_NextPart_000_00A5_01BF709A.5C85A480-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:37:06 -0800 This is news to me. I know FMF is making the Megamax 2 but I think the regular Megamax is still available. Check with me tomorrow and I will see if I can find you one. I have sold a bunch of the ST IDS 2 for the KLR650 and XR650L. They are a decent pipe for the money. There are many different pipes for your bike out there on the aftermarket. Depending on what you want out of your pipe will determine which pipe is right for you. Fred Hink *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* Arrowhead Motorsports www.arrowheadmotorsports.com 435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148 Moab, Utah *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:04 AM Hello, I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I have tried all the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know were I could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was thinking about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I have a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim Nugent - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma Date: 06 Feb 2000 10:52:48 -0800 ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:04 AM >Hello, >I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I just got a new Tucker Rocky catalog and they list the Megamax2 for only certain bikes and the DR is not one of them. They do list a new header pipe that is suppose to increase HP and lower sound, called the "Powerbomb". FMF is making a Powercore IV and Powercore IV 2, to replace the Megamax. It looks pretty trick. and I am sure FMF knows their business and has improved their exhaust systems. Fred - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e Date: 06 Feb 2000 01:37:28 -0500 On Sat, 5 Feb 2000 22:12:19 -0500 Steven McGarry writes: > > > > >i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it >ona >dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel. >a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. Manufacturers measure horsepower at the crankshaft. It a much higher rating without the load of the clutch, transmission, chain and sprokets. When comparing different bikes, make sure you're comparing apples to apples. Al Roof ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steven McGarry Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e Date: 06 Feb 2000 19:23:09 -0500 even from crank to rear wheel you would not lose 15bhp, would you ? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr) List notes... Date: 06 Feb 2000 21:34:49 -0700 Mighty strong work, Kurt. Thanks for both this list, and for Dual Sport News, the only publication devoted to dual sport motorcycling that I know of. TW - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rich Anderson" Subject: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 07 Feb 2000 05:18:23 GMT James Alan Tomkins wrote: I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previous bikes (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W40 motor oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here in Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs me about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter and O-ring, which I usually do. Hi Jim, Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently is also unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much longer than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, but it really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you need to. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40 natural motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3000 miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed something that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, or performed other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an oil change. Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on things that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and preventative procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty. Rich Anderson Truckee, CA 1998 DR 350 1985 XL 350 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 07 Feb 2000 09:10:23 -0000 Hi Mikko, I just changed my clutch drive plates yesterday, after 35000 miles. The driven plates are, as you say, steel and did not need changing. Cheers! Andy DR360 SES, Suffolk, England > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates > > Hi > Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. > Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened > clutchcover yet) > If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new > ones,when changing worn friction plates, > or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. > > How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my > stock 5cd27 > > I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. > > > Thanks for the great list > > > Mikko from Finland > > DR350SE-97 > > yamaha wr250-92 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus) Subject: (dr) Re: Kurt Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:27:58 -0600 Kurt, Thanks for everything.. Keep up the good work Amigo. Best Regards & Happy Trails Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking Y2KLR650 @ 2200 sMiles 97 R11RA (Amgia) @ 11K Miles So Many Roads, So Little Time http://members.deltech.net/aches/ - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:14:11 -0800 (PST) --- jnugent <2jnugent@prodigy.net> wrote: > Hello, > I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has > been discontinued. I have tried all > the mail order places but no one has any left in > stock. Does anyone know were I > could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable > replacement? I was thinking > about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any > experience with this pipe? I have > a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and > install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions > would be appreciated. > > Thanks, Jim > Nugent > >Jim I to went through this same road as you.FMF discontinued the Megamax2 even when I wanted it back in Oct of 99.I went with the Powercore4 and am very pleased with it.My freind has the Megamax2 on his DR and I think my muffler flows a bit better than his.The downfall to the Megamax is in order to get good performance out of it you need to place washers between the discs to open up the spacing.This of course produces more noise.His bike is every bit as loud as mine when we are both on the bikes hard.At idle his is a bit quieter.FMF now offers a new improved version of my muffler the Powercore4-2.I got the SA version(spark arrestor) to avoid any fines.If you want maximum power out of a disc system it will be as loud as a non disc system anyway.I plan on getting the powerbomb header pipe in the spring. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr) Nipples and Zerks Date: 07 Feb 2000 08:28:27 -0800 > > I put a zerk on my steeringhead bearing (XR600), greased it ONCE, and the > thing burped grease onto the fender for years. It was a mess. Probably > due to the temperature fluctuations of the drysump oil reservoir. Might > not be a problem on non-reservoir frames. I suggest simply taking it apart > and repack with a good quality waterproof grease. There's not enough > action at the steeringhead to warrant a zerk. It's not worth the mess > IMHO. I definitely agree with the above comments. Note that some DRS models have a steering lock -- this feature means that there's a hole in the headstock shaft. The more grease you zerk into the headstock, the more flows through that hole and then down onto the fender... :( FYI, Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: WHinman22@aol.com Subject: (dr) GPS route logs Date: 07 Feb 2000 12:41:07 EST A friend and I would like to ride the Government Road, aka The Mojave Road, from Barstow, CA to the Colorado River. I have a very good book that goes from the Colorado to Barstow. The markers along the trail are rock cairns. These markers are placed on the West side of intersections. So if you are riding from the other direction you might have to make a choice as to which way to go. That is a decision I don't want to make 75 miles from nowhere. I hope someone who has made the ride has saved a route log on their GPS. If I could get their log I could download it to my Garmin III and be safe. Thanks Wayne Hinman whinman22@aol.com 97 DR650 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Colin Parkes" Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e Date: 06 Feb 2000 23:45:57 +0300 In TBM ??? I saw that too, they were a little disappointed but still really liked it... Seems to have bucket loads of torque....... later Col. -----Original Message----- i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on a dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel. a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: stevengilleland@webtv.net (Steven Gilleland) Subject: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS Date: 07 Feb 2000 15:18:36 -0500 (EST) Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bieffe 3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave up and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and the price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steven Gilleland 90' DR350S - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:26:55 +0200 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks Andy for answering. As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so = i'm interested in knowing, is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have = you changed piston,valves etc... If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot engine) Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry sump = lubricated,(mine engine stock) unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat) I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big = difference in bottoming resistance. Keep = writing Mikko = Vimpari DR350SE-97 yamaha = wr250-92 =20 ------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks Andy for answering.
 
As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, = so i'm=20 interested in knowing,
is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, = have you=20 changed piston,valves etc...
 
If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last = summer
and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot=20 engine)
Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 = is dry=20 sump lubricated,(mine engine stock)
unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat)
I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big = difference in=20 bottoming resistance.
 
 
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =  Keep=20 writing
 
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =  =20 Mikko Vimpari
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =   DR350SE-97
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;            =  =20 yamaha wr250-92
 
           &n= bsp;           &nb= sp;           &nbs= p;            = ;     =20
------=_NextPart_000_0035_01BF71BA.70CB7160-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:56:42 +0100 >and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously ???????=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF The manual of my DR350SE =B499 indicates = that the change oils are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn=B4t indicate anything = about syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each 6000 km it=B4s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I thi= nk that=B4s a precaution of the factory. http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can l= ook the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES Bye _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo -----Mensaje original----- De: Rich Anderson Para: dr@lists.xmission.com Fecha: lunes 7 de febrero de 2000 6:19 Asunto: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes >Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion > >James Alan Tomkins wrote: > > I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on > synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 > > miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previou= s bikes > > (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W4= 0 motor > > oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here= in > > Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs >me > about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter a= nd O-ring, > > which I usually do. > > Hi Jim, > Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the > > synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently i= s also > > unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much long= er > than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, = but >it > really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt > > to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you nee= d to. > > Wayne Marsula' > Escondido, CA > > >I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40 natural >motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3= 000 >miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed something >that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, = or performed >other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an = oil >change. >Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on things >that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and preventative >procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty. > >Rich Anderson >Truckee, CA >1998 DR 350 >1985 XL 350 > > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Doug Grosjean" Subject: Re: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 07 Feb 2000 16:47:06 -0500 Mikko wrote about Andy's DR-350 with 35k miles: << As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so i'm interested in knowing, is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have you changed piston,valves etc... >> Mikko, If you're curious about high mile DR-350's, I've got a 1993 with 41k miles. The engine is completetly stock, and hasn't been apart. The only mods I've done are to add a Clarke plastic tank, aluminum bars, barkbusters, Acerbis handguards, and Hotgrips with a Heat-troller controller velcroed to the RH side of the instrument cluster. Non-maintencance work has been to replace cables a couple times, and the RH cover gasket failed in the kickstart shaft area at around 37k miles. Close inspection revealed that the outer cover supports the kickstart lever, and that as you kick the bike the cover in that area is deflecting - IOW, I don't think it a coincidence that the cover began to leak in the area around the kickstart shaft. The engine is tired, but not loose or rattly - just seems a bit down on power. The clutch seems to be slipping just a tad now as well. Most of it's life has been spent commuting, via the Interstate, running 6k rpm (or so) down the Ohio Turnpike. The first year that I owned it, I cover 22k miles. After that, miles per year were a bit more normal. It doesn't start so easy currently, so maybe it's getting to be time for some work. Hope somebody finds that all to be of interest - though I realize that there are singles out there with more miles, they seem rare. Best, Doug Grosjean Gr.8 Designs Pemberville, Ohio http://www.gr8designs.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 07 Feb 2000 15:52:04 -0800 Pablo wrote: > > >and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously > > ???????żżżżżżżż The manual of my DR350SE ´99 indicates that the change oils > are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn´t indicate anything about > syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the > temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each > 6000 km it´s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I think > that´s a precaution of the factory. > > http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can look > the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES > > Bye > Pablo, I wouldn't buy that theory. Manufacturers do a lot of testing to determine how long for oil change intervals. While it doesn't hurt to change it sooner, to DOUBLE it could be pretty bad. Oils have a "lifetime", determined by the type of engine, use of engine, type of riding area, and others. There's little doubt that you would be damaging your engine by doing as you suggest. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "James Alan Tomkins" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 07 Feb 2000 19:04:47 -0500 Pablo: I have never followed what a manual says on any vehicle, two or four whee= ls. Call me cynical, but I believe most manufacturers want to sell you a new vehicle as often as they can. That's when they make the most money. Aftermarket parts have killed a lucrative business they use to have, especially for bikes. How many of us buy expensive parts from the manufacturer? Only when absolutely necessary. I'm not saying that they publish misleading information; however, I think that most published maintenance intervals are an upper limit. I know from experience that almost everyone I speak with that has good running vehicles normally has = at least one thing in common. They change their oil as well as perform othe= r routine maintenance regularly, usually much more often than any manual suggests. Is it a coincidence that they have good running vehicles? I don't think so. But you can be your own judge. Jim Tomkins Harrisburg, PA 1998 DR650SEW -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Pablo Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 4:57 PM >and I change my oil every 500-600 miles religiously ???????=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF=BF The manual of my DR350SE =B499 indicates = that the change oils are each 6000 km (+-3750-4000 milles) and it doesn=B4t indicate anything = about syntetic oil (only say that uses oil 10-40W, or 15-50... depending the temperature of the zone)... and when a factory indicates oil changes each 6000 km it=B4s because the bike support oil changes each 12000km... I thi= nk that=B4s a precaution of the factory. http://www.suzuki-moto.com/catalogue/revision/revision.cfm here you can l= ook the table km-revisions of the SUZUKI BIKES Bye _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo -----Mensaje original----- De: Rich Anderson Para: dr@lists.xmission.com Fecha: lunes 7 de febrero de 2000 6:19 Asunto: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes >Subject: Re: (dr) Synthetic Oil Discussion > >James Alan Tomkins wrote: > > I don't know why anyone would spend the extra money on > synthetic oils. I have a 1998 DR650SEW and I change my oil every 500-600 > > miles religiously. I followed the same procedure with my previou= s bikes > > (XT350, RM250) and have never had a problem. I use a common 10W4= 0 motor > > oil. It's same stuff I use in my car and is sold everywhere here= in > > Pennsylvania. It meets all API SJ standards. Best part, it only costs >me > about $2.50 to change my oil, $5.00 more if I change the filter a= nd O-ring, > > which I usually do. > > Hi Jim, > Welcome to the list! And thanks for your comments of agreement on the > > synthetic oil. But I must say, changing your oil that frequently i= s also > > unnecessary. The oil most certainly keeps its properties much long= er > than that. Congratulations on taking such good care of your bike, = but >it > really won't hurt to let it go longer, and of course also will not hurt > > to change it that soon. It's just spending more money than you nee= d to. > > Wayne Marsula' > Escondido, CA > > >I too change my oil about every 500-700 miles oil using good old 10/40 natural >motor oil. Yes I could go much longer between changes, some say up to 3= 000 >miles. But how many times have you changed your oil and either noticed something >that needs adjusting, fixed or adjust something that wasn't just right, = or performed >other preventative maintenance. I don't think I have ever done just an = oil >change. >Scheduling your oil changes frequently forces you to get your eyes on things >that might otherwise go unnoticed. A perfect time for adjustments and preventative >procedures while your tool are already out, your hands are already dirty. > >Rich Anderson >Truckee, CA >1998 DR 350 >1985 XL 350 > > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 08 Feb 2000 02:17:22 +0100 I believe that the oil changes (and other maintance) indicate in the manu= al is the appropiate in a general use for each bike (in this case, dual-spor= t, could be 60 off, 40 on)... well, general no, i think it=B4s hard use (the= y have a hard manteance for a heavy or soft use of the bike... if it=B4s us= e is soft, it=B4s OK... and if it=B4s hard... its ok too) I don=B4t believe that Suzuki (or other factory) can offer, in Spain, for example, TWO YEARS (no km limit) of TOTAL GUARANTEE in the Suzuki Bikes (other, for example, aprilia, has THREE). The only thing that you have to do, is the maintance indicate for a offic= ial shop Suzuki. Doing this, your bike don=B4t must stop or broke (accidents, normal things, how chain, brakes... don=B4t included, of course) in TWO y= ears (I have 1 year and 22000 km...). I think that they say to do a maintance = in the manual, always less hard that the bike can support working OK. If oil changes each 6000 km is a lot, the bike could have problem... but in TWO years (no milleage limit)... this problem is SUZUKI GUARANTEE problem. And more... in Spain (i don=B4t know how Suzuki works in other countries)= , the official guarantee is 2 years no limit km, but if you do the indicate maintance in the Dealer Suzuki (in guarantee, 2 years, is OBLIGATORY to c= an use the guarantee), they haven=B4t problem in repair some anormal broke o= r problem in the bike (past the 2 years, but with the correct maintance) (this is a big thing, but the dealer is expensive in the maintance... is = the prize to pay for a good Guarantee) Well... is this a personal opinion. (about oil changes, for example, BMW F650 has it each 10.000 km, and anyb= ody do it in less time in Spain, because if BMW say that the correct oil chan= ge and mainteance is that, it=B4s OK, and it=B4s the best for the bike.) Ok, if you do the oil change each 5000 km, the bike is OK too (isn=B4t problem... problem is do it each 20,000 km), of course, but it isn=B4t necessary. If you have a problem with the DR in guarantee period, and you do the oil changes each 3000 km, you haven=B4t problem with the guarantee (you spend= some money more)... but if you do the oil changes each 9000, you can problems (Suzuki guarantee that, for example, DR350SEX =B499 works correctly with = oil changes each 6000 km... it=B4s possible that it works correctly with it e= ach 9000 or 10000 km... but it isn=B4t guarantee...I think that in the test o= f Suzuki, the bikes with changes each 9000 km, for example, some bike have some problem... and they cannot say that it works properly ALWAYS... beca= use if it is that, Suzuki will recomend he oil changes each 9000km (it would= be a big thing, good publicity) Bye (and sorry for my BAD english) HEY LOOK HERE Go to www.acerbis.com and locate the section NEED AN ACERBIS LOGO (down o= f the main page). Select PClogo and look. Is it hacked? is a joke? is it OK? (my english isn=B4t good, and i don=B4t undertand some things... but the = pic is very extrange) _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo =2E - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: USSergeant@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Oil Changes Date: 07 Feb 2000 22:54:48 EST In a message dated 02/07/2000 8:18:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dual-Sport@ctv.es writes: << www.acerbis.com >> Hey- it looks like their webmaster didn't mean to put that link up... I'm sure Acerbis doesn't know about it either... - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 08 Feb 2000 09:14:11 -0000 Hi Mikko. The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st thing = I've had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear = lever oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a Cycle = Gear airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) and = run a 147 main jet. I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine = spends most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm. I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know how = it goes! Cheers Andy=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage >=20 > Thanks Andy for answering. > =20 > As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, = so i'm > interested in knowing, > is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have = you > changed piston,valves etc... > =20 > If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer > and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot = engine) > Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry = sump > lubricated,(mine engine stock) > unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat) > I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big = difference in > bottoming resistance. > =20 > =20 > Keep = writing > =20 > Mikko > Vimpari > = DR350SE-97 > yamaha > wr250-92 > =20 > =20 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chris Tobey Subject: (dr) longer gear shifter(dr350) Date: 08 Feb 2000 07:52:08 -0600 Hi all, does anybody know where I can order a longer gear shifter for my DR350X (dirt only). I'm constantly knocking it out of gear with the end of my boot. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Chris - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 08 Feb 2000 14:13:05 -0000 Hi Jesse. I would be very interested in a price for the Thumper Racing kit, but I haven't found an outlet over here so I'd get stung for shipping and a punitive import duty which, more or less, has doubled the cost of gear = I've had from White Bros. There's an outfit over here, TTS Performance Engineering (http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/tts.shtml), who do a 440 = kit. The guy from the local Suzuki dealer has just fitted one to his DR, so = I'm watching how long it lasts with great interest! If I win the lottery I'll go Thumper though. No vibration from a 10mm oversize piston is amazing! As regards the plug for your airbox, I'm delighted with mine and would recommend it as a first on the 'must have' list for any DR owner! = Keep up the good work. Cheers Andy DR350SES Rainy Suffolk England > -----Original Message----- > From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net] > Sent: 08 February 2000 13:50 > To: andy.doyle > Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage >=20 > Hi Andy, Thanks for the tip in your message. Thumper Racing now = makes an > first oversize piston for their 435cc kit which would bring it up to > 441cc. > I have used their kits exclusively for the past 6 years and have not = had > any > bad experiences at all, they have Wiseco special build their pistons = so > they > are lighter weight so you get no vibration with almost an almost 10 = mm > oversize from stock. I don't know if you have a source over there or = not. > I > could get this kit for you if you don't, just let me Know if I can be = of > any > help. >=20 > my best regards Jesse >=20 > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com = [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On > Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 1:14 AM > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage >=20 >=20 > Hi Mikko. >=20 > The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st = thing > I've > had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear = lever > oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a = Cycle > Gear > airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) = and run > a > 147 main jet. > I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine > spends > most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm. >=20 > I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know = how it > goes! >=20 > Cheers >=20 > Andy >=20 > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > > Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27 > > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage > > > > Thanks Andy for answering. > > > > As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, = so > i'm > > interested in knowing, > > is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, = have > you > > changed piston,valves etc... > > > > If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer > > and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot = engine) > > Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry = sump > > lubricated,(mine engine stock) > > unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat) > > I bought also a used =F6hlins shock (300$, worth of that), big = difference > in > > bottoming resistance. > > > > > > Keep > writing > > > > Mikko > > Vimpari > > = DR350SE-97 > > = yamaha > > wr250-92 > > > > >=20 > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 08 Feb 2000 06:47:34 -0800 Hi Andy, The Kit goes for $250.00 this is the piston, rings, pin,sleeve and gaskets. This will do the whole works. at least you know what you are looking at.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 6:13 AM Hi Jesse. I would be very interested in a price for the Thumper Racing kit, but I haven't found an outlet over here so I'd get stung for shipping and a punitive import duty which, more or less, has doubled the cost of gear I've had from White Bros. There's an outfit over here, TTS Performance Engineering (http://www.tts-performance.co.uk/tts.shtml), who do a 440 kit. The guy from the local Suzuki dealer has just fitted one to his DR, so I'm watching how long it lasts with great interest! If I win the lottery I'll go Thumper though. No vibration from a 10mm oversize piston is amazing! As regards the plug for your airbox, I'm delighted with mine and would recommend it as a first on the 'must have' list for any DR owner! Keep up the good work. Cheers Andy DR350SES Rainy Suffolk England > -----Original Message----- > From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net] > Sent: 08 February 2000 13:50 > To: andy.doyle > Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage > > Hi Andy, Thanks for the tip in your message. Thumper Racing now makes an > first oversize piston for their 435cc kit which would bring it up to > 441cc. > I have used their kits exclusively for the past 6 years and have not had > any > bad experiences at all, they have Wiseco special build their pistons so > they > are lighter weight so you get no vibration with almost an almost 10 mm > oversize from stock. I don't know if you have a source over there or not. > I > could get this kit for you if you don't, just let me Know if I can be of > any > help. > > my best regards Jesse > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On > Behalf Of andy.doyle@bt.com > Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 1:14 AM > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage > > > Hi Mikko. > > The engine is stock at the minute, with the clutch being the 1st thing > I've > had to replace. I've got through several front sprockets and a gear lever > oil seal but they're external so don't really count. I've got a Cycle > Gear > airbox (now manufactured and sold as Vortex by Jesse on this list) and run > a > 147 main jet. > I use semi-synthetic 10/40, changed every 2000 miles, and the engine > spends > most of it's waking life at 7000+ rpm. > > I intend to fit a 440 overbore kit this summer...I'll let you know how it > goes! > > Cheers > > Andy > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > > Sent: 07 February 2000 20:27 > > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: (dr) DR350SE mileage > > > > Thanks Andy for answering. > > > > As you said,you and your dr350 have 35000 respectable miles behind, so > i'm > > interested in knowing, > > is your engine stock,is there anything broken in your dr engine, have > you > > changed piston,valves etc... > > > > If anybody interested, i installed jagg oil cooler kit last summer > > and noticed,that engine rpm lowered about 400rpm when idling(hot engine) > > Maybe installing oil cooler was a bit overacting,cause dr350 is dry sump > > lubricated,(mine engine stock) > > unlike dr650 SE is wet sump engine(more heat) > > I bought also a used öhlins shock (300$, worth of that), big difference > in > > bottoming resistance. > > > > > > Keep > writing > > > > Mikko > > Vimpari > > DR350SE-97 > > yamaha > > wr250-92 > > > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Doug Grosjean" Subject: (dr) Daytona Schedule / Links Date: 08 Feb 2000 11:06:59 -0500 List(s), Like a lot of you, I'm headed for Daytona / Bike Week, staying at Bulow, etc. I've put my schedule up on my company website, go to: http://www.gr8designs.com/ Click on "Daytona Schedule / Links" Also there, I put up links that I'd culled from various mailing lists and posts, figured that since I had a website (and the URL's) it might be helpful to people to have access to a bunch of links / data in one location. About a half-dozen links so far, but each link has a ton of data in it. Note that the links that I've got have little or nothing to do with the Harley events, point being that a person with a BMW, Wing, Concours, dirt-bike, etc could go there and have a great time. Best, Doug Grosjean Gr.8 Designs Pemberville, Ohio http://www.gr8designs.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Sims" Subject: (dr) DR350 fork springs Date: 08 Feb 2000 11:51:52 -0500 Hi, Here's a couple questions I hope you all can help me with. 1. I bought some new fork springs. The springs came with a piece of PVC pipe to set the preload. A paper also came that tells how much preload to use (how big of a spacer). The paper doesn't list my year: 1998 DR350SE. Do I need to use a preload spacer? Or does that just apply to older, non-cartridge-type forks? 2. I'm going to change my first tire soon. I'm considering getting the Ty Davis tire thing that holds your tire while changing. It's worth it to me to spend some money upfront to make the job easier - as I foresee many tire changes down the road. Has anyone used that? Is it worth $100? How many spoons should I get? Much appreciated. Mark Sims Atlanta, GA '98 DR350SE - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:50:03 -0000 Hi John, I've been talking to Jesse about the kit, and he does a very good = price, but I have to add shipping and import duty for anything from the States. A = $150 oversize front disk from White Bros cost me =A3200 ($300) to get = here....loses the bargain basement appeal a bit! There's a Brit company making a similar set-up that I'm looking at, but maybe I should check out the air bases round here to see if there's any biking GIs with a Thumper Racing Big Bore kit sized bag! I hope to give DRZs a run for their money....but even if they run away = from me I'll be a lot more comfortable in the saddle than they will! Cheers! Andy > -----Original Message----- > From: john miller [SMTP:weekendtoy98dr@yahoo.com] > Sent: 08 February 2000 16:34 > To: andy.doyle@bt.com > Subject: RE: (dr) DR350SE mileage >=20 >=20 > > =20 > > >Hey Andy just thought I would give you a shout on > the big bore.Do yourself a BIG favor and talk to Jesse > Kientz about what kit to go with.He told me the 440 > was not the best option but instead go with the 435.He > will give good reasons for it and facts to back it > up.He has experience with our motors and knows them > inside and out.From the latest posts on the list it > looks like our bikes with a big bore 435 kit should > handle the DRZ400 eh?Later on t =20 > =20 > > =20 > >=20 > > - > > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > > "majordomo@xmission.com" > > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > > For information on digests or retrieving files and > > old messages send > > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > > your message. > >=20 > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:42:46 -0700 Mark, Not knowing the type or length of your new springs, compare their length to the OEM ones to insure they are not too long. If they are longer than the stock ones, I suspect they are not compatable on your 98 model. Most sales persons and a lot of the catalogs are not aware of the fork change to the 98 and 99 DR350SE models. If they are shorter than the stock springs then you will have to use the pvc spacer after you cut it to the proper length. If the new springs are around .44kg's per mm, (and should be) only preload them the minimum, and not more than 3/8 inch for the best ride. If you preload them too much the ride will become very harsh on the small bumps. After installing the new springs, you will probably need to soften the compression a few clicks (bottom adjuster) and go a few harder on the rebound clicker (top adjuster). Have not used the Ty Davis tire changer myself, but have watched him use it. He makes it work real well. I would say ol two spoons is enough. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 Mark Sims wrote: > Hi, > > Here's a couple questions I hope you all can help me with. > > 1. I bought some new fork springs. The springs came with a piece > of PVC pipe to set the preload. A paper also came that tells how > much preload to use (how big of a spacer). The paper doesn't list > my year: 1998 DR350SE. > > Do I need to use a preload spacer? Or does that just apply to > older, non-cartridge-type forks? > > 2. I'm going to change my first tire soon. I'm considering getting > the Ty Davis tire thing that holds your tire while changing. > It's worth it to me to spend some money upfront to make the job > easier - as I foresee many tire changes down the road. > > Has anyone used that? Is it worth $100? How many spoons should > I get? > > Much appreciated. > > Mark Sims > Atlanta, GA > '98 DR350SE > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike A Hyers Subject: Re: (dr) longer gear shifter(dr350) Date: 08 Feb 2000 09:49:48 -0800 Chris, I got a longer shifter for my S model from Baja Designs. They have many different sizes and offsets. I'm sure they can hook you up. Their website is http://www.bajadesigns.com , or if you want to call their number is 858-578-9111. They dont list the specific models that it fits on their website but when I called they set me up. If they cant do it than IMS makes one for the dirt model as well. http://www.imsproducts.com/ Good luck, mike Just a sidenote, I would reccomend calling baja designs first I am still waitng on a part I ordered from IMS a month ago. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) Ooops...I'm back... Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:50:24 -0700 I just received an email from Mike Brock. Mike has family members and loved ones who have been diagnosed with some serious illness and will not be able to take over moderating the dr list. My prayers are with he and his family. So....at least for the time being, I'm baaacck... Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:02:16 -0800 > Have not used the Ty Davis tire changer myself, but have watched him use > it. He makes it work real well. I would say ol two spoons is enough. Another item that doesn't often get mentioned are at least a couple plastic rim protectors. It's amazing how soft the aluminum rims are to the steel tools. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Swamprider" Subject: (dr) Daytona Date: 08 Feb 2000 13:11:16 -0500 For those of you planning on going to Daytona, or those of you wishing you could go to Daytona, get a little taste of Florida dual sporting at this website http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 Including pictures from a previous Daytona dual sport along with other dual sport rides in Florida and the South Eastern US. Have fun! Robert Frey Withlacoochee Dual Sport Riders Southern Dual Sporter Newsletter - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs Date: 08 Feb 2000 10:34:50 -0800 Mark and Norm, I didn't see where you said what kind of springs you bought. Progressive Suspension lists with their spring a spacer of 1" for the 1998 model. I just checked it myself, as I ordered springs for my 98. FWIW, Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) 350SE rear wheel Date: 08 Feb 2000 22:30:51 +0200 Thanks for replying Andy and Doug. Here I go again,questions,please,don't get angry guys From '97-'99 350SE has no more cushioned-hub rear wheel(at least here in Finland) So,did Suzuki calculate that350SE is too powerless to do any damage to it's transmission, when riding on asphalt roads?(what would happen to tranny on asphalt,if my bike was been heavily hopped up?) Does anyone know, is that DRZ400 fork actually twin-chamber fork, like past RM's had. Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee. Any comments welcome Mikko from snowy Finland '97 350SEV - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS Date: 08 Feb 2000 13:47:06 -0700 > Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bieffe > 3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave up > and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know > if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good > choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and the > price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it. > Any help would be greatly appreciated. Steven, I haven't owned a Bieffe, I have heard of a few people that liked theirs. At the other end of the price spectrum is the Arai Dual Sport which ends up close to or a little over $300...they were discontinued but MAW has some in stock...I have one and like it. Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE rear wheel Date: 08 Feb 2000 23:18:56 +0100 > >Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee. > Guau.... you have lucky :). 3 years... 2 years it=B4s Ok, but 3 is PERFEC= T. the 3 years guarantee should be in all the countries. your you can be ca= lm during 3 years, making the maintenance recommended by the factory...becau= se in that time it should not pass anything abnormal, and if happens, the factory would be taken charge of the repair. About rear tire, I think that Bridgestone TW302 (and front TW301) is the best option for Dual-sport (duration, performance, prize...)(take a look = in muy web here: http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/bridgest.htm) The new DR400Z (dual-sport version) bring these tyres. Bye - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS Date: 08 Feb 2000 23:17:58 +0100 Here there is two dual-sports helmets (thety seem very good options) http://www.agv.com/2000/m47rr/m47rr_uk.htm NEW, 2000 model (nice :) ) http://www.nolan.it/a/prod_nolan.asp?c=3Dr&f=3D3 Nolan n70 I look the bieefe 3sports... but it has a small problem (or big...). The screen (=BF? it=B4s ok that?) doesn=B4t open full, they do half, Other he= lmets, how nolan N70 open the screen fully, and it=B4s ok (you can use the helme= t on and off road, within quit the screen) Bye. _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo -----Mensaje original----- De: Kurt Simpson Para: Steven Gilleland ; dr@lists.xmission.com Fecha: martes 8 de febrero de 2000 22:29 Asunto: RE: (dr) DUAL SPORT HELMETS >> Would like some input on Dual Sport Helmets. I recently ordered a Bief= fe >> 3-Sport Helmet [Which was out of stock] but after 3 months they gave u= p >> and sent me a refund. Before I ordered one again, I would like to know >> if anyone has one, if they like it, and what are some other good >> choices. I like the way the 3-Sport converts from dirt to street and t= he >> price. But I have yet to actually see one, to see how I would like it. >> Any help would be greatly appreciated. > > >Steven, I haven't owned a Bieffe, I have heard of a few people that like= d theirs. At the >other end of the price spectrum is the Arai Dual Sport which ends up clo= se to or a little >over $300...they were discontinued but MAW has some in stock...I have on= e and like it. > >Kurt > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: RAld277@aol.com Subject: (dr) Broke Spokes Date: 08 Feb 2000 18:09:24 EST I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I then decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that included some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes. This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them correctly? Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR? Any help would be appreciated. Mike A. Nashville 95 DR 350 90 Husky WXE 510 99 KX 100 (Honey's bike) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE rear wheel Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:10:33 -0700 Mikko, The DRZ400E did not get the twin chambered forks as on the 96-97 RM, but externally appear to be the same, even the tripple clamps look identical except for the headlight/number plate mountings. The cushioned rear hub also disappeared here in the US on the 97 up "S" models. Have not heard of a 3 year guarantee here on the DR350, unless the buyer purchases what we call an extended warrantee for an addition fee. Will leave the rest of the questions to someone else to answer. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 mikko vimpari wrote: > Thanks for replying Andy and Doug. > > Here I go again,questions,please,don't get angry guys > >From '97-'99 350SE has no more cushioned-hub rear wheel(at least here in > Finland) > So,did Suzuki calculate that350SE is too powerless to do any damage to it's > transmission, > when riding on asphalt roads?(what would happen to tranny on asphalt,if my > bike was been heavily hopped up?) > > Does anyone know, is that DRZ400 fork actually twin-chamber fork, like past > RM's had. > > Pablo,here in Finland DR350SE and DR650SE have 3 years guarantee. > > Any comments > welcome > > Mikko from snowy > Finland > '97 350SEV > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Broke Spokes Date: 08 Feb 2000 16:08:41 -0800 Hi Mike, when you lose 1 spoke the next one has to take the extra load and if its abused it also breaks and its all down hill from there. Bucannon in southern Calif. has stainless spokes for the DR.... Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of RAld277@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 3:09 PM I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I then decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that included some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes. This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them correctly? Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR? Any help would be appreciated. Mike A. Nashville 95 DR 350 90 Husky WXE 510 99 KX 100 (Honey's bike) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: CGUBERA@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) Broke Spokes Date: 08 Feb 2000 19:16:26 EST In a message dated 2/8/00 11:13:35 PM, RAld277@aol.com writes: << I noticed a couple of months ago that I had a broken rear spoke. I called the dealer and found out that spokes can only be ordered in full sets. I then decided to try and live with one missing spoke (my first mistake). I clipped the broken one off short. That's when I noticed that some of the spokes felt loose. I then decided to tighten the spokes (my second mistake) without any way of gauging torque. Well, after a particularly grueling ride that included some heavy jumping I now have eight additional broken spokes. This brings me to my questions. Did I break all these spokes because I did not torque them correctly? If that is the case how do you torque them correctly? Lastly, does anybody make stainless pokes for the DR? Any help would be appreciated. Mike A. Nashville 95 DR 350 90 Husky WXE 510 99 KX 100 (Honey's bike) >> Spoke tightening is a very fine art. There is a great book available called T he Wheel Book by Jobst Brandt. This guy is the guru of wheels. He is an engineer for HP now but helped design Porsche brakes, and many bicycling products among other things. Anyway, you need a tensiometer which measures spoke tension if you want to do it right, but with some practive it can be done by feel. The basic tenant is that you want the spokes as tight as you can get them without the wheel turning into a taco to give you the strongest wheel. The spokes all work together so tightening one that is loose without adjusting the others is a mistake. Hope this helps...Chris in Nor Cal - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: ScottoBme@aol.com Subject: (dr) Scottoiler system Date: 08 Feb 2000 20:13:18 EST Does anyone have any experience with the Scottoiler. I would be very interested in any feedback. Thanks Scott Bower 98 DR650 Redondo Beach, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus) Subject: (dr) Re: Tire tools Date: 09 Feb 2000 04:40:23 -0600 The tire tools I have been using for many years on all kinds of bikes were bought from a local auto parts store. Used a grinder to round off the edges and a file to smooth that out. Don't forget some kinda rim protectors if ya wanna keep the rim looking really pretty. -- Best Regards & Happy Trails Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking Y2KLR650 @ 2200 sMiles 97 R11RA (Amgia) @ 11K Miles So Many Roads, So Little Time http://members.deltech.net/aches/ - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) DR prices etc. Date: 09 Feb 2000 17:20:19 +0200 Hi, I hope somebody finds this interesting I'd like to explain a little, why is it important, that in Finland DR's have 3 years guarantee. In the US new DRZ 400 dual sport pays about 6000$, am I right? In Finland same bike costs registerated nearly 12000 US dollars (No, i'm not kidding, it's a real nightmare) Main reason is extremely high taxes in bike prices and partly due current jen rate Same taxes with gasoline, one US gallon gas is about 4$ (Yep, i'm glad that I ride DR not Chevrolet) One thing I see more negative in America, your OHV laws seem to be really strict, yes, we do have laws too but here I can choose pretty freely many of the thousands of miles forest roads and trails and go riding I see it this way with OHV laws, little land-little problems, (well, maybe not in England), and partly because dirt bikes are not very common here It feels strange, but here in northern Finland most guys want to ride street bikes despite of great offroad possibilities Mikko Vimpari from expensive Finland '97 DR350SE '92 Yamaha wr250 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Kevin Albrecht Subject: (dr) Stainless steel oil filter Date: 09 Feb 2000 10:18:58 -0500 (EST) Hey all I was checking out Scotts web page and ran across a stainless steal oil filter. Its at http://scott@scottsperformance.com/ Has anyone tried one of these? Kevin 98SE - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr) Stainless steel oil filter Date: 09 Feb 2000 08:24:24 -0800 Yes, and I have them for sale. Check out http://members.aol.com/cloudhid/kpinfo.jpg I have the DR stainless steel oil filters in stock along with some for Honda and Kawasaki. I can get you just about any 4stroke dirt bike stainless steel oil filter or custom made for any street bike too. These filters work great and will be the last one you will ever need to buy for your bike. They are not cheap but are well made. Fred Hink *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* Arrowhead Motorsports www.arrowheadmotorsports.com 435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148 Moab, Utah *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 7:18 AM > Hey all > > I was checking out Scotts web page and ran across a stainless steal oil filter. > Its at http://scott@scottsperformance.com/ > Has anyone tried one of these? > > > Kevin 98SE > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) DR prices etc. Date: 09 Feb 2000 15:35:44 -0000 We pay pound for dollar for most things in the UK, which is a bit of a bast*rd since the exchange rate is =A3 * 1.6 / $. We pay =A33.30 = ($5.30) for a gallon of unleaded, which is about 80% tax. UK gallons are 4.42 = litres...is that the same as US gallons? Andy the pauper Exploited citizen of that funny little lump lying off the East Coast (Europe, to those of you holding your maps upside down) > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 09 February 2000 15:20 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) DR prices etc. >=20 > Hi, I hope somebody finds this interesting >=20 > I'd like to explain a little, why is it important, that in Finland = DR's > have > 3 years guarantee. > In the US new DRZ 400 dual sport pays about 6000$, am I right? > In Finland same bike costs registerated nearly 12000 US dollars (No, = i'm > not > kidding, it's a real nightmare) > Main reason is extremely high taxes in bike prices and partly due = current > jen rate > Same taxes with gasoline, one US gallon gas is about 4$ > (Yep, i'm glad that I ride DR not Chevrolet) >=20 > One thing I see more negative in America, > your OHV laws seem to be really strict, > yes, we do have laws too but here I can choose > pretty freely many of the thousands of miles forest roads and trails > and go riding > I see it this way with OHV laws, little land-little problems, > (well, maybe not in England), and partly because > dirt bikes are not very common here > It feels strange, but here in northern Finland most guys > want to ride street bikes despite of great offroad possibilities >=20 > Mikko Vimpari from expensive Finland > '97 DR350SE > '92 Yamaha wr250 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 >=20 > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Sims" Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 fork springs Date: 09 Feb 2000 12:11:47 -0500 Hi, My springs are also the Progressive Suspension types. Thanks for the feedback. I plan to start with the stock-recommended oil weight and height and probably a spacer of 1 inch (after comparing the length of the new spring with the stock). From Norm's email, it sounds like I want to keep preload to about 3/8". How will changing the oil height affect the characteristic of the spring? Mark Wayne Marsula' wrote: > > Mark and Norm, > I didn't see where you said what kind of springs you bought. > Progressive Suspension lists with their spring a spacer of 1" for the > 1998 model. I just checked it myself, as I ordered springs for my 98. > FWIW, > Wayne Marsula' > Escondido, CA - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) RE: DR prices etc. Date: 09 Feb 2000 21:56:25 +0200 Thanks for replying guys Maybe I miscalculated that gas price, i'll try to put it this way, it's about three times more expensive than in the US I must admit, that dirt only DRZ400 pays "only" about 8000$US(because taxes are not paid) but you can't ride it on public roads( can't register it) and i think, there's no any guarantee included. So, you want to dual sport here, pay that extra 4000$ People are importing bikes especially from Germany, but they face same dilemma,register it-pay taxes. If you work abroad over one year,you can bring bike tax-free. Sorry, if i sound bitter,did not mean it Thank you for sympathy Mikko - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "The Clouser Family" Subject: (dr) bieffe helmets Date: 09 Feb 2000 16:24:26 -0500 Steve, I own a Bieffe 3-sport helmet. I like the helmet and the price of it, but I wouldn't purchase it for the following reasons: The shield only lifts half way and scratches very easily. I have tried to purchase extra shields through Bieffe and through Dennis Kirk where I purchased the helmet. I didn't have any luck with either dealer. I found Don Locke at dlocke@matrixsports.com. He was supposed to have shields. I ordered them with my charge card, but haven't received them yet, and I gave up after 4-6 months. From bieffe's instructions to remove the shield you must pry with a screwdriver gently. It did not not work and pieces of my helmet broke(CHEAP you get what you pay for). I stayed with the helmet, but bought Scott no-fog goggles to replace the shield, and I'm very pleased. Jim 1998 DR650SE - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Zucker" Subject: (dr) Spokes Date: 09 Feb 2000 18:40:14 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Guys, A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your spokes is to: 1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the spokes with a bit of = metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but each = spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension = (simple physics, given identical spokes). 2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, and note the tones = produced by the average front and average rear. 3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A slight twist (just = enough to break the friction) is all that's required to change the = tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch. Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the first human on the = Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get = someone else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a = few different tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and = iterations, because all tensions are interconnected) I can be assured = the spokes are now equally and correctly tensioned. Getting the note = from the newest bike possible raises the probability that the overall = tension level is what the factory recommends. Bill ------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Guys,
 
A straightforward and foolproof way to adjust your = spokes is=20 to:
 
1. Find a new bike the same as yours and hit the = spokes with a=20 bit of metal. The fronts will sound a different tone than the rears, but = each=20 spoke should have the same tone on each rim, indicating the same tension = (simple=20 physics, given identical spokes).
2. Bring a tuner or harmonica or guitar or whatever, = and note=20 the tones produced by the average front and average rear.
3. Adjust each of your spokes to that same note. A = slight=20 twist (just enough to break the friction) is all that's required to = change the=20 tension (and note) to a detectably different pitch.
 
Obviously, if you're (notice that I must be the = first human on=20 the Internet every to use the word "you're" correctly!) tone deaf, get = someone=20 else to do it. After less than a year my '99 DR650 had quite a few = different=20 tones going, but after a couple of minutes (and iterations, because all = tensions=20 are interconnected) I can be assured the spokes are now equally and = correctly=20 tensioned. Getting the note from the newest bike possible raises the = probability=20 that the overall tension level is what the factory = recommends.
 
Bill
------=_NextPart_000_012E_01BF732D.1A9BBD80-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 10 Feb 2000 08:45:05 +0100 Hi Mikko! About the needle: I`m not sure but I think that the first number is a serial number, cd is the taper in degrees. This needle has two different tapers, c is the upper one and d the lower. The numbers at the end is about its outer diameter. At least this is the case on tmx needles. If the number ends with, say 55, this means that the outer diameter is 2,55mm. A lower number means that the needle is richer because the difference between the needle jet and jet needle gets bigger. Markus Skellefte=E5, Sweden At 21.56 2000-02-05 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote: >Hi >Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. >Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened clutchcover yet) >If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new ones,when changing worn friction plates, >or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. > >How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my stock 5cd27 > >I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. > > Thanks for the great list > > Mikko from Finland > DR350SE-97 > yamaha wr250-92 > >Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)350S" > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen Subject: Re: (dr) drz400e Date: 10 Feb 2000 09:02:28 +0100 Hi=20 A bike loose about 13 % of it=B4s power from the crank to the rear wheel. Only 31 hp was still a very low number. I=B4ve seen power curves of DR 350 and it puts out 25 hp. But you can take a look at http://mcnews.com.au. Under "tests" all curious can read about the dr-z. They=B4ve also included a power curve (or whatever the word is)both stock(41hp) and with a modified exhaust(45hp I think it was). At www.motorcycle.com you can find another test of the dr-z. Look under "offroad".=20 Markus At 22.12 2000-02-05 -0500, Steven McGarry wrote: > > > > >i was reading a mag here in the uk about the drz 400e and they put it on a >dyno run and it only puts out 31.2hp at the rear wheel. >a long way off suzuki`s claimed 47. > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Markus LIndrgen Subject: Re: (dr) dr 350 exhaust dilemma Date: 10 Feb 2000 09:09:33 +0100 Hi Jim I suggest that you try to find the april -99 issue of Dirt Rider. Maybe some of your friends has it? They tested exhaust pipes and complete systems on an XR 400 and they both described how the bike felt with the different pipes mounted and showed the hp numbers from the dyno. Very interesting reading. Markus Sweden At 12.04 2000-02-06 -0500, jnugent wrote: >Hello, >I have come to find out that the fmf mega max has been discontinued. I have tried all >the mail order places but no one has any left in stock. Does anyone know were I >could find one? Or does anyone know of a suitable replacement? I was thinking >about the supertrapp IDS 2,anyone have any experience with this pipe? I have >a 97 350 se and am going to modify the stock box and install a carb kit from Thumper. Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > Thanks, Jim Nugent > > >Attachment Converted: "A:\EUDORA\(dr)dr35" > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) DR350S jet kits etc. Date: 10 Feb 2000 18:21:36 +0200 Thank you for information Markus, I have forgotten to thank Norm, Jesse,Pablo, sorry, thank you also (and people not mentioned here) Apologies to people, who are fed up with me, I seem to write every day (long winter) I know you have probably been talking around this subject maybe 100 times,but once again, which one is better bargain; Factory jet kit or Dynojet kit Do you get same amount of jets, any other differencies? My friend has '98 DR650SE, he installed self-made skid plate to his bike last summer, he didn't bore vent holes to the plate. Soon he was complaining on warm days,"engine is getting so hot, it's actually losing power", I know it's not bike's fault those vent holes seem to be essential. Suzuki dealer changed cam chain tensioner to his bike under warranty. Bike was ridden 2000 miles and tensioner was getting noisy(rare failure?) Thanks for patience Mikko "snowman" Vimpari '97 DR350SE - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:56:36 -0600 Hello List, I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a 99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock. My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft) with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a vacation, and some play riding. I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: (dr) About exhaust Date: 10 Feb 2000 14:00:34 +0100 Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?. I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only FMF, = WB and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more? can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ USA)? what is the best :) ? What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc exhaus= t? Bye. _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: garlandfam@mindspring.com Subject: Re: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 12:33:17 -0500 From what I know (believe me, it is not much), you must drill out a plug to adjust fuel to air mix. I understand that the factory sets fuel to air mix and then seals the hole where the screw is with a soft metal. -----Original Message----- >Hello List, > > I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a >brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a >99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock. >My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft) >with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a >vacation, and some play riding. > I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to >Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also >thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading >the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two >mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one >that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to >Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then >use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out >would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find >is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he >took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never >got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range. > >Bryan > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: njkouba Subject: Re: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 11:09:40 -0700 Bryan, The carb on your DR350 has a fuel adjustment screw on the bottom just forward of the float bowl. If by chance you have a Calif. DR350 (dirt only model) then you may have a CV type carb without an excelerator pump. It still will have the fuel adjustment screw in the same location, its just covered with a plug so it is tamper proof. To be able to adjust this without burning yourself, one needs the "T" handle adjusting needle, rather than the too long of a screw driver and heavy gloves. Believe Jesse over at Kientech Engineering stocks them. If you have the pumper style carb, once it is set up properly you should not have to change anything other than possibly a half turn on this fuel adjusting screw. We ride around 2,200 ft in the winter and up to 10,000 ft in the summer with out any internal changes. If you decide on the Vortex air box, it will come with all the jetting specs. and they will be considerably different than with the stock box. Also you may want to check and see where the fuel squirter nozzle is pointed. It should point just to the right of the needle when aimed correctly, and not back into the airbox as we have seen on more than one new bike. Let us know if you need some help jetting etc. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions DR. DR http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/2299 Bryan Ply wrote: > Hello List, > > I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a > brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a > 99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock. > My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft) > with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a > vacation, and some play riding. > I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to > Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also > thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading > the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two > mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one > that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to > Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then > use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out > would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find > is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he > took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never > got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range. > > Bryan > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:16:50 -0800 Hi Bryan, well lets approach this carefully. If you have the pumper carb, Throttle / cable mechanism) should be on the right side when sitting on the bike. Fuel screw: located in front of the bowl bottom center of the carb. a tee handle aftermarket fuel screw available from Thumper Racing at 1-800-259-5186 will give you the easiest adjustment capabilities that you can possibly get. This pumper carb is the best you can get for the DR350. Airbox: Your stock airbox is strangling the engine from the get go,134.3 cfm on a flow bench so this is one reason why you are having problems at high elevation. The vortex will provide twice the air volume (265 cfm on a flow bench) as the stock one plus give you better throttle response, longer intervals between servicing the filter and its much simpler to change the element. an added note is that it will support any engine moods that you do and give you serious performance gains. If I can be of further help please feel free to contact me. My best regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Bryan Ply Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 8:57 AM Hello List, I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a 99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock. My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft) with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a vacation, and some play riding. I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350S jet kits etc. Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:16:56 -0800 HI Mikko, You might try Thumper Racing 1-800-259-5186 carb kit for the DR650SE # CADR5 lists for 68.00 US. Address 604 so. Washington Marshall Texas 75670. You can't ask too many Questions, and there is no such thing as a dumb Question. I am always here to help any way I can. My best regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of mikko vimpari Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 8:22 AM Thank you for information Markus, I have forgotten to thank Norm, Jesse,Pablo, sorry, thank you also (and people not mentioned here) Apologies to people, who are fed up with me, I seem to write every day (long winter) I know you have probably been talking around this subject maybe 100 times,but once again, which one is better bargain; Factory jet kit or Dynojet kit Do you get same amount of jets, any other differencies? My friend has '98 DR650SE, he installed self-made skid plate to his bike last summer, he didn't bore vent holes to the plate. Soon he was complaining on warm days,"engine is getting so hot, it's actually losing power", I know it's not bike's fault those vent holes seem to be essential. Suzuki dealer changed cam chain tensioner to his bike under warranty. Bike was ridden 2000 miles and tensioner was getting noisy(rare failure?) Thanks for patience Mikko "snowman" Vimpari '97 DR350SE - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 10:23:20 -0800 Hi Bryan, the Dirt model pumper carb doesn't have this plug only the cv carb ( dual purpose & Calif issue bikes) there is a remote chance that you may have a Calif epa issue bike but that is not likely in Texas. the Cv carb has the Throttle mechanism on the left side of the carb while sitting on the bike. Regards jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of garlandfam@mindspring.com Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 9:33 AM Hi >From what I know (believe me, it is not much), you must drill out a plug to adjust fuel to air mix. I understand that the factory sets fuel to air mix and then seals the hole where the screw is with a soft metal. -----Original Message----- >Hello List, > > I would like a couple of opinions/advice from the group, but first a >brief intro : My name is Bryan and I live in Dallas, Texas. I bought a >99 DR 350 dirt model which was bone stock, and has remained bone stock. >My normal riding is done in North Texas (500ft), and West Texas (3000ft) >with a yearly voyage to Gunnison, Colorado (8000-13000ft) for a >vacation, and some play riding. > I am going to install an extended gear shifter for the bike, thanks to >Mike for pointing me in the right direction (bajadesigns). I am also >thinking about installing a vortex airbox and another carb. From reading >the list I think that Jesse ought to be able to help on the last two >mods. I am looking for a carb like the one on my '88 Quadrunner, one >that has both an airscrew and a fuel ajustment knobs. When I head off to >Colorado one that I can throw a different pilot and main jet in and then >use the air and fuel screw to adjust the rest of the hesitation out >would be nice. On the current carb, the only adjustment that I can find >is the idle adjustment. My father has a 98 DR 350 dirt model that he >took to Colorado last year, we messed with it for a week and still never >got it running perfect thoughout the altitude range. > >Bryan > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600 List, Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling Thumper Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: RE: (dr) Intro Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:19:31 -0800 (PST) --- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > Hi Bryan, well lets approach this carefully. If you > have the pumper carb, > Throttle / cable mechanism) should be on the right > side when sitting on the > bike. Fuel screw: located in front of the bowl > bottom center of the carb. a > tee handle aftermarket fuel screw available from > Thumper Racing at > 1-800-259-5186 will give you the easiest adjustment > capabilities that you > can possibly get. This pumper carb is the best you > can get for the DR350. > Airbox: Your stock airbox is strangling the engine > from the get go,134.3 cfm > on a flow bench so this is one reason why you are > having problems at high > elevation. The vortex will provide twice the air > volume (265 cfm on a flow > bench) as the stock one plus give you better > throttle response, longer > intervals between servicing the filter and its much > simpler to change the > element. an added note is that it will support any > engine moods that you do > and give you serious performance gains. If I can be > of further help please > feel free to contact me. > My best regards Jesse > > Bryan this airbox WILL INDEED breath new life into your DR.It made a huge difference in throttle response and I would be hard pressed to see someone that would not be happy with the results.I highly recommend it to any DR owner as this single mod was the best money I have yet to spend on my bike.You will not be dissapionted.To give you an idea of how much more air volume this box flows I had to jet up from a 127.5 to a 147.5 with the addition of the box and FMF exhuast. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 10 Feb 2000 15:22:34 -0800 (PST) --- Bryan Ply wrote: > > List, > > Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but > after calling > Thumper > Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec > airbox, and then > getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what > the exact procedure > is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows > better. > > Bryan > > -Step one tell the wife who the king of the castle is.Step two buy airbox.(joke) > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MREINA@webtv.net (Michael Reina) Subject: (dr) fork oil measurements Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:07:53 -0500 (EST) When measuring oil level on forks with race-tech cartrige emulators, Should the emulators be in (fork collaspes, no springs) or out of the fork tubes. Somebody please help I'm in the middle of this job! thanks, Mike Reina - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:18:33 -0800 HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side and stop at the edge of the foam rubber that runs just under the frame on each side then do the same thing at the rear of the airbox right along the edge of the foam that runs side to side. next you cut front to back along the edge of the foam rubber on each side. Vacuum out all of the chips and reinstall the airfilter. You will have to rejet the carb I would try a 140 main to start with and leave the pilot stock you will open the fuel screw to one and three quarter turns out from fully closed. drop the clip on the needle to the fourth groove. now keep track of your plug color. Black is too rich brown is correct and gray to white is lean. hope this helps if you have more questions please feel free to contact me.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Bryan Ply Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 1:09 PM List, Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling Thumper Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) fork oil measurements Date: 10 Feb 2000 20:20:06 -0800 I would do it with the emulators in. regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Michael Reina Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 5:08 PM When measuring oil level on forks with race-tech cartrige emulators, Should the emulators be in (fork collaspes, no springs) or out of the fork tubes. Somebody please help I'm in the middle of this job! thanks, Mike Reina - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 06:48:50 -0800 "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and > seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind > the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side Jesse, How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs. the Vortex Box? I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab" - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 07:27:40 -0800 Hi Again Bryan, as I mentioned before your stock airbox flows 134.3 cfm of air on a flowbench, this is with a clean and oiled filter element. When this test was done it was also tested with the access door off and had a gain in flow up to 142.5 then the filter element was removed in addition to the access door and the flow was increased slightly to 145.1 cfm. this indicates that the airbox itself is extremely restrictive. your gain in cutting out the top of the stock airbox would be a little over 8 cfm I must admit that this does help some but it falls far short of the Vortex and its 265 cfm. I hope this information helps you and others on the list to make informed decisions when considering increasing the airflow by cutting out the top of the airbox. my best regards to you all Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Wayne Marsula' Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 6:49 AM Cc: Bryan Ply; dr_list "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and > seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind > the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side Jesse, How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs. the Vortex Box? I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab" - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 07:34:20 -0800 Hi Wayne, thanks for the heads up. I have been checking around here on this discovery trail and have come up short is it near southern Oregon. If it is you would be welcome to leave your vehicle at my place it would be secure here as I am here most all the time.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 6:49 AM Cc: Bryan Ply; dr_list "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > HI Bryan, the procedure is to first remove the stock airfilter element and > seal up the opening into the carb then draw a line about a half inch behind > the bracket that holds the airbox in and cut with a saber saw side to side Jesse, How about sending him the airflow specs on cutting the stock box vs. the Vortex Box? I have no interest personally in doing either mod to my DR, but feel if something is to be done, the most efficient way is the best. Wayne Marsula' Escondido, CA "See y'all in Moab" - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Ballou Subject: (dr) air box Date: 11 Feb 2000 11:03:52 -0500 How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box. Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) air box Date: 11 Feb 2000 09:12:34 -0800 Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing stock including exhaust, you could hear the increased air flow, from under the seat. However it is not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an aftermarket exhaust is installed I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to me . Hope this answers your question regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Mike Ballou Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box. Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) air box Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:39:14 -0700 > How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box. > Mike For anyone interested...Dual Sport News did an evaluation of the Vortex box in its December issue. It was a very postive review. The carb drake noise is increased but as Jesse said not in any way that is irritating...it makes it sound like its nose is unstuffed (g) Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Corsaro Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:12:41 -0800 One thing to keep in mind, is that if you were to sell the bike latter with a cut stock air box, it will decrease the value. It would cost more to buy a new replacement Suzuki air box than a Vortec box. If you bought the Vortec box and you decide to sell the bike, you can put all the stock goods back on and sell the aftermarket goodies for 50-70% of what you paid for them new. Most people buying a used bike don't care for the aftermarket stuff, it looks better to have a stock bike because it is perceived that the bike has never been raced or thrashed to most buyers. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Bryan Ply > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600 > To: dr_list > Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade > > > List, > > Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling > Thumper > Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then > getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure > is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better. > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 10:40:26 -0800 Well put Jeff, I have thought of this factor but never posted it most people like to see a stock item that is used, it presents an (original condition) picture to them....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jeff Corsaro Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 10:13 AM One thing to keep in mind, is that if you were to sell the bike latter with a cut stock air box, it will decrease the value. It would cost more to buy a new replacement Suzuki air box than a Vortec box. If you bought the Vortec box and you decide to sell the bike, you can put all the stock goods back on and sell the aftermarket goodies for 50-70% of what you paid for them new. Most people buying a used bike don't care for the aftermarket stuff, it looks better to have a stock bike because it is perceived that the bike has never been raced or thrashed to most buyers. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Bryan Ply > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 15:09:09 -0600 > To: dr_list > Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade > > > List, > > Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling > Thumper > Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then > getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure > is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better. > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dhchas@cs.com Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:34:44 EST In a message dated 2/10/00 1:12:42 PM Pacific Standard Time, Bryan.Ply@gte.com writes: << Sorry to bother the group again so fast, but after calling Thumper Racing and finding out they want 279 for the vortec airbox, and then getting the NO from the wife, I was wondering what the exact procedure is for cutting out the stock airbox so that it flows better. Bryan >> Bryan, Maybe you should wait till after Valentine's Day. Does she have it on your wish list? Just trying to help. Harral - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600 If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes) Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Corsaro Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:19:58 -0800 Bryan, If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related mailing list for a air box for you! Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Bryan Ply > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600 > To: Dhchas@cs.com > Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade > > If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of > his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and > I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting > the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not > when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it > is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes) > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:37:31 -0600 I would appriate that, but I dont think that the creative accounting approach will fail, I figure in a couple of months I will get it, just enought time for me to get back on the bike and get use to the power that it already posses!!!! Thank God for Spring time Bryan Jeff Corsaro wrote: > > Bryan, > > If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does > not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related > mailing list for a air box for you! > > Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > > > From: Bryan Ply > > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600 > > To: Dhchas@cs.com > > Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade > > > > If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of > > his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and > > I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting > > the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not > > when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it > > is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes) > > > > Bryan > > > > - > > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" Subject: (dr) whistling DR650 Date: 11 Feb 2000 13:39:39 -0800 Greetings, all - My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around 1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that KLR's have a history of this problem. Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)? Thanks, eh! Lisa - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Ballou Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz Date: 11 Feb 2000 16:34:02 -0500 Will a Vortex box be made for the new DRz400. I just bought one this week. I will pick it up within the next two weeks. The dealer is installing m21's and I will be ordering a baja kit. Has any body used baja's directional switch assy. I like the OEM on my current DR and was thinking of buying a Suzuki OEM switch unit and having baja wire that in. Mike B. -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 4:20 PM Bryan, If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the creative accounting does not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser on all the dirt related mailing list for a air box for you! Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Bryan Ply > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:55:53 -0600 > To: Dhchas@cs.com > Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade > > If I am getting it for Valentines Day, I figure that Jesse or one of > his staff will be the first to know. I have considered both options and > I think that the Vortex is the way to go. To only get 8-10cfm cutting > the stock box, I dont believe it is worth the time (or headache), not > when I can get the Vortex and rip the stock air system out. I guess it > is time for some creative accounting (aka checkbook mistakes) > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Corsaro Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:18:17 -0800 Mike The one they give you with the newer Baja kit is a little better than the push-to-cancle switch on the DR350SE. I think it is off a Husaburg dual sport bike. The old one is a piece of junk one similar to the ones used on Japanese bikes in the 70's. It is a old style turn signal switch and once sand gets into it, it does not work. You can wire just about any turn, headlight, horn switch you want. The wires might be different colors for the different circuits. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Mike Ballou > Reply-To: Mike Ballou > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 16:34:02 -0500 > To: "'DR'" > Subject: (dr) Airbox upgrade new DRz > > Will a Vortex box be made for the new DRz400. I just bought one this week. I > will pick it up within the next two weeks. The dealer is installing m21's > and I will be ordering a baja kit. Has any body used baja's directional > switch assy. I like the OEM on my current DR and was thinking of buying a > Suzuki OEM switch unit and having baja wire that in. > Mike B. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Corsaro Subject: Re: (dr) whistling DR650 Date: 11 Feb 2000 14:23:36 -0800 It sounds like one of the exhaust pipe gaskets. Try to tighten the exhaust flange. Once the pipe heats up, the metal expands and exhaust leak diminishes. If it's under warranty, take it to the dealer, they might just give you a new pipe. Hope that helps, Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" > Reply-To: "Lisa Bierlmeier" > Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2000 13:39:39 -0800 > To: "DR List" > Subject: (dr) whistling DR650 > > Greetings, all - > > My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the > pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around > 1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that > KLR's have a history of this problem. > > Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue > with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)? > > Thanks, eh! > > Lisa > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: RE: (dr) air box Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:10:31 -0800 (PST) I'll back up Jesse's evaluation as I have the Vortex box and FMF exhuast.The noise from the box is not noticable as for snap that's another story. --- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing > stock including exhaust, > you could hear the increased air flow, from under > the seat. However it is > not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an > aftermarket exhaust is installed > I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to > me . Hope this answers > your question > > regards Jesse > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com > [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On > Behalf Of Mike Ballou > Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM > To: 'DR' > Subject: (dr) air box > > > How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the > stock box. > Mike > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 15:19:02 -0800 (PST) --- Jeff Corsaro wrote: > Bryan, > > If you don't get it for Valentines Day and the > creative accounting does > not work, maybe we can setup a charity funds raiser > on all the dirt related > mailing list for a air box for you! > > Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > > Hey guys how bout a charity fund raiser for a big bore kit and cam package for my bike i'll chip in the first 5 dollars!!!!LOL(Laughing Out Loud) > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) whistling DR650 Date: 11 Feb 2000 17:12:10 -0700 > My '97 DR650 (purchased new in December 99) makes a whistling sound from the > pipe at startup. The noise begins just as the engine fires and lasts around > 1 second. It lessens somewhat when the bike is warm. I understand that > KLR's have a history of this problem. > > Has anyone else experienced this? Any suggestions? Is it a warranty issue > with Suzuki (my bike is under warranty until December 00)? Yes, I have and I took it to being the same problem with the KLR's only I can hear the DR while I can't hear the KLR (I'm hard of hearing and the pitch isn't right). Yes, I think it is a warranty issue. I bought a SuperTrapp IDS2 instead. Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: (dr) FW: Hi! Date: 11 Feb 2000 19:16:57 -0800 Hi Rick, Good to hear from you sounds like you are up to your old tricks embarrassing these guys on the hot rides with a 10 year old DR350. I may be able to find one up here for Paul but there should be some coming out of the wood work as soon as the drz400's start hitting the showrooms in numbers keep your eyes on the classifieds. We should see a product evaluation on the YZ/WR Airbox soon in Motocross Action maybe April. I am still moving the Airboxes for the DR's one went out Wednesday and I will install one this week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil. keep in touch.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 11:57 AM Hi Jesse, I have been thinking of you and thought I would drop you a note to see how you are doing. I was actually in Oregon several weeks ago, but it was a quick trip. I went to Portland and Beaverton for a couple of days and then went to San Antonio. What a difference in climates. It was snowing in Portland and 90 degrees in San Antonio. I guess I hit the unseasonal extremes in both places! I did have a chance to ride several weeks in a row. A couple of my friends bought new XR400's and have been anxious to ride. My bike has been running great and often surprises the other guys I have been riding with. Eric's friend has a YZ426 and a couple of others have YZ400's and they can never pull away from me or catch me on the straight trails. They seem to be evenly matched, especially climbing hills. Eric's friend is getting an XR650, that will probably be a different story. The new liquid cooled motor is supposed to be unbelievably strong. Of course, they raved about the XR400 when it first came out and we all know how that was. Do you know about any DR350's for sale. Paul has been wanting to get one and they are becoming harder to find. He did find one that needed a new motor, but it may be hard to find the engine only. You will have to forward me some sales material so I can start selling your airboxes. I have been riding with the Yamaha guys who would probably be interested in seeing some flyers. If you don't have any, maybe we can come up with something together. Are you having any write ups in the magazines, I haven't seen any yet, or maybe I just missed them. I went motorcycle shopping last week. I am tempted to buy the new DRZ, but I will wait another year or two. I am looking for a new bike for Neil, Michele's son. I have been considering the new TT-R125L. It's looks like a smaller YZ400 and seems much better than the Honda XR100. It has better suspension and a front disc brake, not to mention, more power. They will probably become available next month. Michele would also like a small quad to cruise around on, so I guess that means I will have to wait my turn before I can get a new toy. Anyway, I still like my bike and am not in a hurry. Take care and say Hi to Jan for me. Rick - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr) FW: Hi! Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:49:31 -0700 > week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping > pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil. keep > in touch.....Jesse Jesse, what is the range of big bore options for 350's these days? Who makes them and what comments could you offer about each? Are any more reliable than others? Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) FW: Hi! Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:19:06 -0800 I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the reliability aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and have not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441. I see you have read the post to my friend Rick he is the most mild mannered guy you ever saw until he gets on his bike. It is setup like mine. I did them both at the same time back in 1994. I still have not made up my mind on the 400kits we spoke of before. Tom Warren has one and has lots of miles and no problems. The 441 has had problems in the past but they are using a different piston now so they are probably ok they clearance their pistons at .003 and I prefer .0025 for a stronger oil film but this is my hang-up. These are your more popular big bore setups out there. if you have more Questions I will try to cover them as best as I can. my best regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 7:50 PM Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com > week end. I have three 435's and one 441 in progress in the shop keeping > pretty busy. will talk to you later the best to you Michelle and Neil. keep > in touch.....Jesse Jesse, what is the range of big bore options for 350's these days? Who makes them and what comments could you offer about each? Are any more reliable than others? Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 20:25:30 -0800 Hi Rod, thanks for the heads up on the discovery trail, I will be sure to let you know when I am up that way. regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 7:53 PM Jesse I just caught part of a message about the Discovery Trail in Oregon? I found the maps and down loaded them on a CD (I had my son do it on his computer), but the trail starts by Klamath Falls, goes through Christmas Valley then to John Day and then goes out towards Milton Freewater. If you think of riding it, it does go just east of BEND on the way north! Rod Carlile / Bend - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr) FW: Hi! Date: 11 Feb 2000 21:39:05 -0700 > I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the reliability > aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and have > not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so > when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441. What are the costs associated with the kit and its installation. How can an out of state person like myself take advantage of your shop? If a person was to come in for a weekend with plenty of advance notice could the job be done in 2 or 3 days? How about partial do it yourself partial you do the machining? Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" Subject: (dr) airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 21:23:49 -0800 Bryan - Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ... Does the Vortex box improve flow significantly more than installing a K&N filter? I'm considering the K&N, as it's less taxing on my budget. Good luck in your accounting quest. Lisa - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dhchas@cs.com Subject: Re: (dr) airbox upgrade Date: 12 Feb 2000 00:56:06 EST In a message dated 2/11/00 9:23:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, lisab@mountain-inter.net writes: << Bryan - Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ... >> Just be sure, before you give it to her that you fill it with dirt and put some flowers in it. Tell her that funky ol' plastic thing with all the holes in it, is just a "vase" and when the flowers die, you'll take care of the "vase". Short of divorcing your wife and marrying Lisa, this is the best creative thinking I can come up with. Harral - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) FW: Hi! Date: 11 Feb 2000 23:18:22 -0800 Hi Kurt, I am doing that now with one of the my customers from Calif. He sent me his cylinder and Installed the sleeve. and sent it with the piston kit and he is installing it on the bike. The cost of the kit is $250.50 and I charge $130.00 to do the sleeve installation. I have a stock sleeve that I can have already bored and fitted to the piston and can either send it in exchange for yours or could have everything done so when you arrive I could do the top end new piston/cylinder exchange in a day.I charge $125.00 for this service This includes jetting the carb. Would a arrangement like this be possible. Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:39 PM Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com > I have the most respect for the Thumper Racing 435 Kit from the reliability > aspect and the performance aspect I have been doing them since 1993 and have > not had any failures yet. Thumper now is stocking a one mm overbore kit so > when your 435 gets tired you can go to the next size which is 441. What are the costs associated with the kit and its installation. How can an out of state person like myself take advantage of your shop? If a person was to come in for a weekend with plenty of advance notice could the job be done in 2 or 3 days? How about partial do it yourself partial you do the machining? Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) airbox upgrade Date: 11 Feb 2000 23:37:45 -0800 Hi Lisa, It will frustrate you to death trying to get it in the stock airbox and will not even come close to the Vortex if you recall the stock airbox only flows 145cfm with the access door off and the filter element removed. you put the stock filter element back in you are back to 142.5 cfm with the access door off. If you cut the top out and put the door back on you are back to the same thing 142.5cfm. The Vortex will give you 265 cfm. The K&N may give you 1 or 2 cfm over the stock element but this is not worth the hassle of trying to get it fastened in the stock airbox. I understand the cost issue It took me almost a year of creative whining to get my wife to let me buy my DR back in 1990 but I finally won her over. I sometimes get carried away with this technical stuff but just trying to be informative. my best regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Lisa Bierlmeier Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 9:24 PM Bryan - Why don't you buy 2 Vortex boxes, the second for your wife for Valentine's Day? Oops, did you marry a girl who doesn't ride? Bryan, Bryan, Bryan ... Does the Vortex box improve flow significantly more than installing a K&N filter? I'm considering the K&N, as it's less taxing on my budget. Good luck in your accounting quest. Lisa - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: (dr) About exhaust Date: 12 Feb 2000 19:18:24 +0200 Hi Pablo I'm not expert with silencers,but in case nobody else answers. Trad. mufflers: Yoshimura works well and it comes with low volume ins= ert, if you don't want to scare people. Big Gun and Arrows Dakar should perform fairly well also. You can buy supertrapp disc kit to Pro Circuit Platinum pipe too. US guys know best about disc mufflers,but like they said Supertrapp IDS 2 has good sound / performance ratio. My own silencer is made from old stock dr muffler rear section is cutted off and is replaced with longer, better flowing and rather trick titanium made silencer. Which one of systems is better: who knows,at least european racers seem to prefer trad.mufflers over disc ones. If you wanna "race" and dual sport, you can't beat that disc system tuneability Like Markus wrote, if you can, check out that april '99 Dirt Rider ;X= R 400 pipe shootout (i don't have that april issue) Hope,this helps a bit Mikko ----- Original Message ----- =46rom: Pablo Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:00 PM Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?. I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only F= MF, WB and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more? can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ U= SA)? what is the best :) ? What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc ex= haust? Bye. _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "The Clouser Family" Subject: (dr) 1998 DR650 Chains and Sprockets Date: 12 Feb 2000 19:28:07 -0500 My stock chain on my Suzuki is a 525, and I think it must be purchased through Suzuki. Is there any reason not to go to the 520 chain? I have found that they are readily available at most shops. Could you please give me the pros and cons of a 520 versus a 525. My Suzuki owner's manual states not to have a master link in the chain. Does anyone know why that is? Also, could anyone give me information on my stock sprockets. I plan on making a trip from Pennsylvania to California and back in September. Should I change them to make the bike more street-oriented? Any recommendations on the number of teeth on the sprockets - front or back? Which ones would you change? Thanks, Jim C. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rainer.Knape.SGG@t-online.de (Rainer) Subject: Re: (dr) 1998 DR650 Chains and Sprockets Date: 13 Feb 2000 14:24:22 +0100 Hi Jim, I changed to a 520 chain with my DR 650 due to the better availability of sprockets. I would expect a 525 chain to last a little bit longer - but not that much. You need a masterlink to close an open chain - if you use endless chains (as recommended) you won't need it. If you are a 100% safety guy, you migth want the endless chain, but I never heard of problems with open chains and masterlinks (never use it twice !). If you still have the stock sprockets (15/41), there is no need to make your bike even more street-oriented - it is already. If you go offroad a 14 teeth front sprocket will be a good idea, I use 14 / 43 teeth at the moment (having a 15 sprocket for longer street rides). Rainer _____________________ The Clouser Family schrieb: > My stock chain on my Suzuki is a 525, and I think it must be purchased > through Suzuki. Is there any reason not to go to the 520 chain? I have > found that they are readily available at most shops. Could you please give > me the pros and cons of a 520 versus a 525. My Suzuki owner's manual states > not to have a master link in the chain. Does anyone know why that is? > > Also, could anyone give me information on my stock sprockets. I plan on > making a trip from Pennsylvania to California and back in September. Should > I change them to make the bike more street-oriented? Any recommendations on > the number of teeth on the sprockets - front or back? Which ones would you > change? > > Thanks, > > Jim C. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug B Subject: (dr) (350) need parts Date: 13 Feb 2000 10:43:54 -0800 I need a factory rear turn signal for my 94 350SE. If anyone has one, I'll buy it, or I'll take both if you have two of them. I need ones that are not broken, and in decent condition. Thanks, Doug - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Corsaro" Subject: Re: (dr) (350) need parts Date: 13 Feb 2000 11:56:18 -0800 If you can't find them used, you can get new aftermarket K&S turn signals that match the stock ones. They are half the cost of the Suzuki parts. Most shops that can order from Parts Unlimited or Motorcycle Stuff can get them. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 10:43 AM > I need a factory rear turn signal for my 94 350SE. If anyone has one, I'll > buy it, or I'll take both if you have two of them. I need ones that are > not broken, and in decent condition. > > Thanks, > Doug > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Tom Warr" Subject: (dr) Obsolete?!! Date: 13 Feb 2000 16:07:55 -0700 Jimmy Lewis Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine Dear Mr. Lewis: I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete. My wife's definition of "obsolete" is if you can't still get parts for it. Parts are forthcoming for my DRS. The huge aftermarket has helped make the bike even more versatile, further endearing itself to its owner. It's easy to work on. I ride the bike a lot, and if parts ever become scarce, it would become functionally obsolete. I suppose another definition of obsolete would include not being up to the task at hand. My DRS isn't competitive on the motocross track. It was never meant to be. It is a good trail bike, and functions well in all conditions between that and the interstate. It is important to realize how most riders in the real world ride motorcycles, and the DRS is still up to the task of the way most people ride them. A faster bike doesn't necessarily make the slower bike obsolete. Here are some other adjectives you could use to replace obsolete, while describing my DRS. None of these belie the fact that the bike has 10 year old technology: Durable; popular; fun to ride. You get the picture. Sincerely, Tom Warr Bikermaniac Great Falls, Montana drwarr@montana.com PS Congratulations on your excellent finish in the Paris to Dakar race! - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: (dr) About exhaust Date: 14 Feb 2000 02:01:51 +0200 Hi Pablo again About White brothers E-series muffler: it's absorption type muffler, = like most aftermarket mufflers are. I read YZ 400F pipe shootout, and at least for that bike it wasn't be= tter than the other aftermarket mufflers in the test.Those elliptical discs seem to be more marketing= trick. I must admit it's really good looking muffler. Mikko =2E----- Original Message ----- =46rom: Pablo Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 3:00 PM Somebody have a White brothers in a DR350? How works it?. I=B4m looking a muffler that works with disc, and I think that only F= MF, WB and supertrapp do it. Are there some exhaust more? can somebody tell me the aproximate prize of the WB for DR350 (in $ U= SA)? what is the best :) ? What is better: traditional exhaust (laser, yoshimura,...) or disc ex= haust? Bye. _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!! Date: 13 Feb 2000 16:16:41 -0800 Tom Warr wrote: > > Jimmy Lewis > Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine > > Dear Mr. Lewis: > > I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate > your comment -- Tom, Thanks for a great job saying what many of us would like to say. While I'm sure the new DRZ is quite a good bike, I have to wonder how many riders "really" need it. The DR350 is quite capable, and far better than the skills that many of its riders riding skills are. A good (or better) bike does not necessarily make a better rider. Personally I ride a lot in the desert, both here in Southern California and in Baja. I don't want to take a bike to the desert that may at some point need something that is very scarce there - water. Air cooled bikes are well able to put up with the heat of the desert, much better than I am, and I might need that water for myself! Again, my thanks. Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" http://www.mikthebik.com/ BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE & two Yamaha's Member: BMW GS Mailing List (off & on) BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal United Sidecar Association Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club Honda SOHC4 #539 National Rifle Association - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Corsaro" Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!! Date: 13 Feb 2000 18:11:20 -0800 Good Point, that comment in Cycle World disturbed me too. The rags always cater to what's coming out. A few months ago Dirt Rider had a under 350cc thumper review, They rated the DR350 under the Honda XR250, Yamaha TTR250, and Kawi. KLX300. Shows you what happens when you let motocross head rate bikes. The other thumpers might be better for jumping, cornering. Most rider wouldn't benefit from having a bike that's 15 lbs lighter and what ever else the very new bikes have. That $7000 Yamaha YZ400F doesn't look very good when you don't know how to ride it. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 3:07 PM > Jimmy Lewis > Off Road Editor, Cycle World Magazine > > Dear Mr. Lewis: > > I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate > your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: Re: (dr) Obsolete?!! Date: 13 Feb 2000 20:48:19 -0600 Tom Warr Wrote: I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete. Not only do we own obsolete motorcycles we're a bunch of sniveling crybabies too. Eric begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(AH"`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$(@ <` M& ```$E032Y-:6-R;W-O9G0@36%I;"Y.;W1E`#$(`0V ! `"`````@`"``$$ MD 8`2 $```$````,`````P``, (````+``\.``````(!_P\!````5P`````` M``"!*Q^DOJ,0&9UN`-T!#U0"`````&1R+61I9V5S=$!L:7-TI_.5=K\!'@!P``$````5```` M4F4Z("AD)"$=.5"++6N,OO1 ``'@`># $````%````4TU44 `````>`!\,`0````X` M``!E;7EEL"@P!0$P-4`@!C: K #$P,Q0@"PH2 M\@'0(+)4`W @5PK !@860+@&<@`:"#"& %0'1H92!N!]$`4W5Z=6MI($0`4GH@-# P+B"@2&]W M978$D"P>09$?(&1N)P5 87 4P*\%D 1'])O8CYS!O 2`!_P(, %\#,U!# B(3!->2 Q.6XY&M F ME23@@; % ME7:_`4 `"## 1:>%E7:_`1X`/0`!````!0```%)E.B ``````P`--/TW``"Y !UW:_ ` end - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Isaac Vanier" Subject: (dr) aftermarket DR tank? Date: 13 Feb 2000 23:04:03 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I'm just trying this out just to make sure it's active and all that. =20 What's a good looking replacement tank for a '97 DR350SE? I like the = way the stock tank looks, but those plastic wings on this particular = design seem "cheap" to me. I just don't really like them. A tank that = would fit, and has radiator scoops would be cool looking, even though = it's an air cooled bike : ) I like the style of those. Thanks ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I'm just trying this out just to = make sure it's=20 active and all that. 
 
What's a good looking replacement = tank for a '97=20 DR350SE?  I like the way the stock tank looks, but those plastic = wings on=20 this particular design seem "cheap" to me.  I just don't = really=20 like them.  A tank that would fit, and has radiator scoops would be = cool=20 looking, even though it's an air cooled bike : )    I = like the=20 style of those.
 
Thanks
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF7676.9EBD7C60-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) aftermarket DR tank? Date: 13 Feb 2000 21:12:36 -0800 > Isaac Vanier wrote: > > I'm just trying this out just to make sure it's active and all that. > > What's a good looking replacement tank for a '97 DR350SE? I like the > way the stock tank looks, but those plastic wings on this particular > design seem "cheap" to me. I just don't really like them. A tank > that would fit, and has radiator scoops would be cool looking, even > though it's an air cooled bike : ) I like the style of those. > > Thanks Isaac, There ain't no such animal! If you want it to have radiator scoops, you'll have to buy a water cooled bike. I have an Acerbis tank on mine. Fits good, holds more gas than any other after-market tank. Looks? Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) air box Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:11:30 -0000 As an uninterested 3rd party, my opinion is that the Vortex airbox enhances the sound of the DR in that it sounds deeper and more throaty, but it is in no way loud or intrusive. That's with a stock exhaust....with an aftermarket you won't know the airbox is there by listening. Cheers Andy Doyle Suffolk, England > -----Original Message----- > From: Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com [SMTP:jesse@rvi.net] > Sent: 11 February 2000 17:13 > To: Mike Ballou; 'DR' > Subject: RE: (dr) air box > > Good Question Mike, I would say with every thing stock including exhaust, > you could hear the increased air flow, from under the seat. However it is > not an irritating noise to me anyway. If an aftermarket exhaust is > installed > I don't believe it would be noticeable, It is not to me . Hope this > answers > your question > > regards Jesse > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On > Behalf Of Mike Ballou > Sent: Friday, February 11, 2000 8:04 AM > To: 'DR' > Subject: (dr) air box > > > How much louder is the Vortex box compared with the stock box. > Mike > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 14 Feb 2000 11:25:26 -0600 Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone explain the procedure for taking it off. Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a friends house. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 14 Feb 2000 15:59:38 -0000 Hi Mikko, Having replaced my clutch drive plates last week I had to take the cover off again yesterday to put new springs in...for the few pounds/dollars/roubles they cost you may as well do them all at once. With the old ones and new plates it wasn't possible to adjust the clutch so it wouldn't slip under abuse without having it dragging with the lever pulled in, making finding neutral even more impossible than usual!. New springs sorted this. Cheers! Andy > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates > > Hi > Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. > Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened > clutchcover yet) > If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new > ones,when changing worn friction plates, > or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. > > How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my > stock 5cd27 > > I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. > > > Thanks for the great list > > > Mikko from Finland > > DR350SE-97 > > yamaha wr250-92 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:25:01 -0800 Hi Bryan, if you have a box trailer with sides higher than the fenders your in trouble because it is 87 inches long. If the trailer is a flat bed it is less than 6 ft from contact patch to contact patch on the tires. From the front of the front tire to the rear tire contact patch center is 6 foot. You can try to fit the bike in diagonaly and maybe you will be OK. Hope this helps....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Bryan Ply Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 9:25 AM Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone explain the procedure for taking it off. Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a friends house. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeff Corsaro Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 14 Feb 2000 10:37:18 -0800 I have a 4x6 trailer with sides, most dirt bikes fit fine when they are in the trailer diagonally. You can get two bikes in with the tail gate down, with the rear tire hangs out a little. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego > From: Bryan Ply > Reply-To: Bryan Ply > Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2000 11:25:26 -0600 > To: dr_list > Subject: (dr) DR350 Length > > Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure > out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off > the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone > explain the procedure for taking it off. > > Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a > friends house. > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Christopher Bruno Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 14 Feb 2000 13:37:49 -0500 Bryan Ply wrote: > > Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure > out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off > the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone > explain the procedure for taking it off. > > Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a > friends house. > > Bryan Bryan, The diagonal of a 4x6 trailer should be about 86" so you might be able to fit it in diagonally, but I think the bike is longer than 6'. Good luck! -Chris - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ben Wall" Subject: (dr) Lowering Links Date: 14 Feb 2000 14:36:15 -0700 Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question. Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm a little inseam challenged. Looking at the snow in Alberta, Ben - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: al.roof.for.nc.trails@juno.com Subject: Re: (dr) Lowering Links Date: 14 Feb 2000 17:24:59 -0500 On Mon, 14 Feb 2000 14:36:15 -0700 "Ben Wall" writes: > Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question. > Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm > a little > inseam challenged. > Looking at the snow in Alberta, > Ben Ben, Bruce Sutta, a member of my club, The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, operates S&S Automotive in Matthews, North Carolina. As well as automotive work, S&S builds trikes and does conversions on all types of vehicles for the physically impaired. Bruce has been working on lowering links which would be of higher quality than most currently on the market. I have copied him on this reply so that he can give you the details (Hi Bruce!) Hope this helps, Al C. Al Roof Promoter - The Honda Hoot Carolina Dual Sport Adventure Ride Founder & President - The Blue Ridge Pathfinders Motorcycle Club, Inc. Office Manager/Special Events Coordinator - Suzuki-Kawasaki of Gastonia Public Relations Officer - The North Carolina Off-Highway Vehicle Association, Inc. Alternate State Representative - The National Off-Highway Vehicle Conservation Council, Inc. ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Lowering Links Date: 14 Feb 2000 14:31:38 -0800 Ben Wall wrote: > > Hi all, I'm a new list member and have question. > Does anybody know where I can get lowering links for my DR350? I'm a little > inseam challenged. > Looking at the snow in Alberta, > Ben -- Ben, Go to this website, that's the place. I got mine there and they sure make a difference. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2299/ Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 15 Feb 2000 01:35:46 +0200 Hello Andy Sounds interesting: I'll take your advice. I'm soon going to buy new friction plates(those RM ones) so it's better to add new springs to the shopping list. By the way, I put recently Trelleborg spike tyres to myDR, and I can tell you, it was almost too much fun to slide those icy and snowy back roads with my bike, so who needs that drz 400 anyway. Thanks for advices Andy Mikko ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 5:59 PM > Hi Mikko, > > Having replaced my clutch drive plates last week I had to take the cover off > again yesterday to put new springs in...for the few pounds/dollars/roubles > they cost you may as well do them all at once. With the old ones and new > plates it wasn't possible to adjust the clutch so it wouldn't slip under > abuse without having it dragging with the lever pulled in, making finding > neutral even more impossible than usual!. New springs sorted this. > > Cheers! > > Andy > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > > Sent: 05 February 2000 19:57 > > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: (dr) 350SE clutch plates > > > > Hi > > Forgive me that i'm asking such simple and boring questions. > > Are SE;s stock clutch drive plates aluminum or steel.(haven't opened > > clutchcover yet) > > If they are steel,is it absolutely necessary replace them to the new > > ones,when changing worn friction plates, > > or can you grind steel plates,if they are just glazed. > > > > How you read those Mikuni needle numbers,is 5cd56 needle richer than my > > stock 5cd27 > > > > I would appreciate,if someone answered these questions. > > > > > > Thanks for the great list > > > > > > Mikko from Finland > > > > DR350SE-97 > > > > yamaha wr250-92 > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE clutch plates Date: 14 Feb 2000 18:43:17 -0800 (PST) --- mikko vimpari wrote: > Hello Andy > > Sounds interesting: I'll take your advice. I'm soon > going to buy new > friction plates(those RM ones) > so it's better to add new springs to the shopping > list. > By the way, I put recently Trelleborg spike tyres to > myDR, and I can tell > you, it was > almost too much fun to slide those icy and snowy > back roads with my bike, > so who needs that drz 400 anyway. > > Thanks for advices Andy > > Mikko > Mikko i'd think twice about those RM clutch plates.I once thought like you and was informed those plates engage real HARD and have been known to chip teeth off tranny gears.This info is from a very knowledgeable source.He also informed me the stock plates in the bike are made well and are the best thing to stick with just my 2 cents. John on long island __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug B Subject: RE: (dr) Obsolete?!! Date: 14 Feb 2000 18:56:52 -0800 Here is what Webster says about obsolescence (my dictionary didn't list obsolete): Gone out of use, antiquated, no longer functional. :) "Discontinued from the factory" or "no longer in production" would be a more appropriate term to describe our trusty and "functional, non antiquated" DR350's (I love mine) Doug Photos at: http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/dualsport/dualsport.html prove how functional mine has been -----Original Message----- Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2000 6:48 PM Tom Warr Wrote: I enjoyed reading about the new Suzuki DRz 400. However, I didn't appreciate your comment that it "replaces the obsolete DRS 350". My 1990 DRS 350 is versatile, capable, reliable, capable and functional. Not obsolete. Not only do we own obsolete motorcycles we're a bunch of sniveling crybabies too. Eric - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: USSergeant@aol.com Subject: (dr) Replacement Handlebars Date: 14 Feb 2000 12:13:16 EST A friend of mine with an XR600 said he bought RM80 handlebars for his bike to make it more trail worthy and that I should do the same. Has anyone on the list used these handle bars? I don't want to cut the stock bars down for re-sale purposes, but they are definately too wide for the eastern US type of woods riding I do. My friend says the RM 80 are exactly what I need. Thanks in advance, Scott 99 dr350se - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates Date: 15 Feb 2000 17:18:47 +0200 John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been known to chip teeth off tranny gears. Thanks John That info really scared me,when tranny goes first, next goes whole engine. It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with new,stock DR plates. To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark (Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody would understand me. Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east. Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me and come to take my precious DR away ( lousy joke) I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain. Cheers! Mikko from Fin(e)land - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: FW: (dr) Risky RM plates Date: 15 Feb 2000 15:41:29 -0000 > -----Original Message----- > From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R > Sent: 15 February 2000 15:33 > To: 'mikko vimpari' > Subject: RE: (dr) Risky RM plates > > I know roubles are Russian Mikko! It was a rather feeble attempt at a > joke. I even know where Finland is, though I haven't been to Scandinavia > yet. I live just near Harwich, a port which has ferries sailing out your > way twice a day, so one day I'll get over and sample those empty forest > trails! > > Where did you learn your English? It's very good...loads better than my > German and French from school back in the 19th century > > Cheers > > Andy > > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 15 February 2000 15:19 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates > > John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been known > to chip teeth off tranny gears. > > > Thanks John > That info really scared me,when tranny goes first, > next goes whole engine. > It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with > new,stock DR plates. > > To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark > (Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody > would understand me. > Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east. > Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me > and > come to take > my precious DR away ( lousy joke) > I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain. > > Cheers! > > Mikko from Fin(e)land > > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: (dr) Risky RM plates Date: 15 Feb 2000 22:04:49 +0200 Hey Andy No hard feelings- I was joking too(lousy joker) Joking apart! you haven't heard yet my horrible English pronouncing-Welcome to Finland Cheers! Mikko from Finland-Where women are pretty and males are ugly (it's better that way) ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 5:33 PM > I know roubles are Russian Mikko! It was a rather feeble attempt at a joke. > I even know where Finland is, though I haven't been to Scandinavia yet. I > live just near Harwich, a port which has ferries sailing out your way twice > a day, so one day I'll get over and sample those empty forest trails! > > Where did you learn your English? It's very good...loads better than my > German and French from school back in the 19th century > > Cheers > > Andy > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > > Sent: 15 February 2000 15:19 > > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: (dr) Risky RM plates > > > > John Miller wrote: RM (clutch) plates engage real HARD and have been known > > to chip teeth off tranny gears. > > > > > > Thanks John > > That info really scared me,when tranny goes first, > > next goes whole engine. > > It's not worth of that to play with RM plates.Better to stick with > > new,stock DR plates. > > > > To Andy: about rouble.Finland is in Scandinavia,currency is finnish mark > > (Yes i know: who cares)I always write prices in dollars ,that everybody > > would understand me. > > Russia(vodka and roubles)is next to east. > > Ooops,it's better to watch out what i'm talking, russians might hear me > > and > > come to take > > my precious DR away ( lousy joke) > > I still appreciate you a lot Andy from the Great Britain. > > > > Cheers! > > > > Mikko from Fin(e)land > > > > > > > > > > - > > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: Re: (dr) Risky RM plates Date: 15 Feb 2000 15:22:29 -0600 >Mikko from Finland-Where women are pretty and males are ugly (it's better that way) That does it, I'm moving to Finland. A pretty woman with an accent gets me every time! JB - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chris Tobey Subject: (dr) seat foam(dr350) Date: 15 Feb 2000 09:31:53 -0600 Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job? Thanks Chris 99" DR350X - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) seat foam(dr350) Date: 15 Feb 2000 16:22:33 -0800 Hi Chris, I believe you would be more impressed with the CEET tall foam and cover from either Ceet or another cover manufacturer this tall foam fits right on the stock seat base and is a one piece thing and is superior to the stock or the additional 1 inch section from Thumper. I have one and its great.......Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Chris Tobey Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 7:32 AM Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job? Thanks Chris 99" DR350X - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jeff Corsaro" Subject: Re: (dr) seat foam(dr350) Date: 15 Feb 2000 17:19:03 -0800 Remove the screws holding both side panels off, pull the side panels off, remove the two bolts (12mm head) holding the rear seat stay bracket. Slide the seat back. For the seat cover, pull the old staples out with a good needle nose pliers. Use a staple gun from a hardware store with 1/4" long staples. Pull the seat cover to slightly compress the foam as you staple it to the seat pan. Don't staple too close to the edge of the seat pan or the staples will stick thought the seat cover. Jeff Corsaro in San Diego ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 7:31 AM > Hi list, I'm thinking about getting the 1" tall seat foam from thumper for > my DR350. I've never put a seat cover on before. Is there any tricks to > doing it and what kind of tools are needed for the job? > > Thanks Chris > 99" DR350X > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Zucker" Subject: (dr) Poor Man's Jack Date: 15 Feb 2000 18:34:52 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF77E3.5956B740 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Guys, I was contemplating buying a jack for my DR650 so I could do chain = maintenance without running the bike down the block. The solution: = Install eyebolts (1/4 inch or larger) about 4 feet apart along the = garage wall into the studs, as low as possible, aimed up and in toward = the handlebars. Now I run the bike up against the wall, torque down just = a little on some straps as if I were carrying the bike in a pickup truck = bed, and use a hydraulic jack to lift the frame as high as I want. The = bike's very stable, but I can still slide her sideways if I need to if I = orient the floor jack the right way. Duh! Bill ------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF77E3.5956B740 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Guys,
 
I was contemplating buying a jack for my DR650 so I = could do=20 chain maintenance without running the bike down the block. The solution: = Install=20 eyebolts (1/4 inch or larger) about 4 feet apart along the garage wall = into the=20 studs, as low as possible, aimed up and in toward the handlebars. Now I = run the=20 bike up against the wall, torque down just a little on some straps as if = I were=20 carrying the bike in a pickup truck bed, and use a hydraulic jack to = lift the=20 frame as high as I want. The bike's very stable, but I can still slide = her=20 sideways if I need to if I orient the floor jack the right = way.
 
Duh!
 
Bill
------=_NextPart_000_002A_01BF77E3.5956B740-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: USSergeant@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) seat foam(dr350) Date: 15 Feb 2000 21:36:07 EST Don't staple too close to the edge of the seat pan or the staples will stick thought the seat cover. Ouch- that's got to hurt. Scott - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: (dr) RE: Mikko here again,sorry Date: 16 Feb 2000 09:43:40 -0000 It's not an issue Mikko! There was NOTHING wrong with what you said and absolutely NO offence was taken!!! I just wouldn't like you to think we didn't know where your country was! I didn't know the Finnish currency was the Mark though, but my phone's a Nokia like half the rest of the planet, all the way from sunny Finland! I know bugger-all else about your country apart from that it sounds good to ride dual sport in and that Helsinki was the venue for the winter Olympics a while back. It's interesting reading your mails and getting an idea of what it's like. Hope your clutch goes in ok Cheers! Andy > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 16 February 2000 00:29 > To: andy.doyle@bt.com > Subject: Mikko here again,sorry > > Hello Andy > I wrote: I was joking too(lousy joker) > I meant myself as lousy joker not you > I regret, that i wrote about that rouble thing > Sorry Andy > > Mikko > > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: (dr) RE: Mikko here again,sorry Date: 16 Feb 2000 09:47:00 -0600 I'll second what Andy said! We need more brief stories about life and riding around the world. Of course, the DR and dual sport world that is. This makes each one of us more knowledgable and worldly, if you will. It gives us an idea of how the rest of the globe works. I can't speak for everyone, but I really enjoy hearing stories from around the world. The internet and e-mail has made the world a small place. JB Indianapolis, Indiana, USA >>> 02/16/00 03:43AM >>> It's not an issue Mikko! There was NOTHING wrong with what you said and absolutely NO offence was taken!!! I just wouldn't like you to think we didn't know where your country was! I didn't know the Finnish currency was the Mark though, but my phone's a Nokia like half the rest of the planet, all the way from sunny Finland! I know bugger-all else about your country apart from that it sounds good to ride dual sport in and that Helsinki was the venue for the winter Olympics a while back. It's interesting reading your mails and getting an idea of what it's like. Hope your clutch goes in ok Cheers! Andy > -----Original Message----- > From: mikko vimpari [SMTP:mikko.vimpari@mail.suomi.net] > Sent: 16 February 2000 00:29 > To: andy.doyle@bt.com > Subject: Mikko here again,sorry > > Hello Andy > I wrote: I was joking too(lousy joker) > I meant myself as lousy joker not you > I regret, that i wrote about that rouble thing > Sorry Andy > > Mikko > > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Isaac Vanier" Subject: (dr) ? about Cycle Gear airbox, and airbox mods Date: 16 Feb 2000 23:34:04 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF78D6.4F7EAEA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable It seems like it's about $100. Is that correct? Also, I have heard that it doesn't fit as well as the stock airbox. Is = this true? One guy said that its open on the back, or sides or = something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it off. I DONT want = to do that, because I'm a major "looks" freak : ) Having duct tape all = over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the box aluminum, or plastic? Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off the stock airbox, = and possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as well, or VERY = close? How much is a new stock airbox? I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems pretty expensive. And = it at least looks heavy. Thanks for any info! ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF78D6.4F7EAEA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
It seems like it's about $100.  = Is that=20 correct?
 
Also, I have heard that it doesn't = fit as well=20 as the stock airbox.  Is this true?  One guy said that its = open on the=20 back, or sides or something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it=20 off.  I DONT want to do that, because I'm a major "looks" = freak :=20 )  Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the = box=20 aluminum, or plastic?
 
Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off = the stock=20 airbox, and possibly get a different filter?  Would it perform as = well, or=20 VERY close?  How much is a new stock airbox?
 
I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems = pretty=20 expensive.  And it at least looks heavy.
 
Thanks for any info!
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BF78D6.4F7EAEA0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) ? about Cycle Gear airbox, and airbox mods Date: 16 Feb 2000 21:50:56 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF78C7.E782D780 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Isaac, the Cycle Gear airbox that I bought back in 1993, cost $221.00 I sell the vortex an improved version for $279.00 I believe it would be best for you to look at the box on the bike on my website at http://.kientech.com and see for yourself that this is a hand built aluminum Airbox that weighs less than your stock one. It will deliver over twice the CFM's that the stock one does which equals more horsepower. It is all but invisible on the bike. The stock airbox with the top cut out will give you about 142cfm the vortex flows 265cfm verified on a flowbench these facts are also on my website. If you have any more questions please feel free to contact me. My best regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Isaac Vanier Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:34 PM It seems like it's about $100. Is that correct? Also, I have heard that it doesn't fit as well as the stock airbox. Is this true? One guy said that its open on the back, or sides or something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it off. I DONT want to do that, because I'm a major "looks" freak : ) Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the box aluminum, or plastic? Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off the stock airbox, and possibly get a different filter? Would it perform as well, or VERY close? How much is a new stock airbox? I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems pretty expensive. And it at least looks heavy. Thanks for any info! ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF78C7.E782D780 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi=20 Isaac, the Cycle Gear airbox that I bought back in 1993,  cost = $221.00 I=20 sell the vortex an improved version for $279.00 I believe it would be = best for=20 you to look at the box on the bike on my website at http://.kientech.com and see for = yourself that=20 this is a hand built aluminum Airbox that weighs less than your stock = one. It=20 will deliver over twice the CFM's that the stock one does  which = equals=20 more horsepower. It is all but invisible on the bike.  The stock = airbox=20 with the top cut out will give you about 142cfm the vortex flows = 265cfm =20 verified on a flowbench these facts are also on my website.  If you = have=20 any more questions please feel free to contact me.
 
My=20 best regards Jesse
 
 -----Original = Message-----
From:=20 owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On = Behalf=20 Of Isaac Vanier
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 11:34=20 PM
To: dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr) ? about = Cycle=20 Gear airbox, and airbox mods

It seems like it's about $100.  = Is that=20 correct?
 
Also, I have heard that it doesn't = fit as well=20 as the stock airbox.  Is this true?  One guy said that its = open on the=20 back, or sides or something, and he had to duct tape it up to close it=20 off.  I DONT want to do that, because I'm a major "looks" freak : = ) =20 Having duct tape all over my bike would drive me nutty. Is the box = aluminum, or=20 plastic?
 
Would I be just as well off to just cut the top off = the stock=20 airbox, and possibly get a different filter?  Would it perform as = well, or=20 VERY close?  How much is a new stock airbox?
 
I have read about the vortex airbox, but it seems = pretty=20 expensive.  And it at least looks heavy.
 
Thanks for any info!
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF78C7.E782D780-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Jasniewicz Subject: (dr) re: cheap stand Date: 17 Feb 2000 14:00:35 -0500 Just use a set of car jackstands. Cheap, around$20, and you can use them on your car too! ;) I used a set on my moose KLR for a year until I got a centerstand, works great. Unfortunately, I don't have a DR so I don't know what it looks like under the engine, frame tubes or not, etc.. but you can always use the stands on the swingarm if you're careful. Eric "no problem" J www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page '98 KLR 650 25,000 miles - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: baglien@access1.net Subject: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 Date: 17 Feb 2000 12:57:33 GMT Hi guys, I bought a '94 DR350S that has a 441 kit on it. (disclaimer... I don't have an actual owners manual, so this may be user error) Two days ago I was riding the bike and it seemed to run out of gas even though it had a 1/2 of a tank. I have been riding the bike with the fuel petcock on "prim" because when I tried riding with it on "ON" the bike died..."out of gas". I figured at the time the petcock what screwed up. Yesterday I decided to try to figure out what was going on and I took it apart...the gas line is clear, so I can see the flow of the gas. The fuel petcock has 3 positions... reserve, prim, and on... it also have a vacuum lead from the carb. Prim is direct fuel flow and the other two need the engine to be running in order to activate the fuel pump in the petcock. When running on prim, I can only seem to use about 1/2 my fuel... at that point gravity must not be sufficient to supply the gas. When I start the bike, after running for a while in "reserve" or "on", air starts getting air into the fuel line. Assuming that the tank is full, this would seem to imply that the fuel pump is leaking, wouldn't it? I pulled the petcock to see if there are any restrictions (clogged filter) and that is clear. So what is the proper use of the fuel petcock? I'm assuming now, that prior to starting, it should be placed in "prim", then once started, it should be switched to "on". ALSO, the bike seems to be flooded all the time. This is a new development... it use to start pretty well, but now, I have to hold the throttle open all the way for the bike to fire. Thanks in advance, Steve it's an enigma. ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: FW: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:27:41 -0000 > -----Original Message----- > From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R > Sent: 17 February 2000 13:27 > To: 'baglien@access1.net' > Subject: RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 > > Hi Steve > > We don't get the vacuum petcocks over here, just 'On', 'Reserve' and > 'Off'. If you ride straight roads you only get to use 1/2 the gas before > reserve coz there's no balance pipe between the left and right hand sides. > The gas on the right just relies on slopping about to get to the fuel tap. > Tip the bike as far to the left as you can without dropping it to get at > the rest of the gas! I guess the 'Prime' position is set at the same > level as 'On' on your bike. The reason it won't run on 'On' or 'Reserve' > is because the rubber diaphragm in the petcock that opens the tap, under > vacuum from the carb, has perished, and /or you have an air leak along the > hose from the carb. New rubber should sort the problem! > > The bike shouldn't flood no matter what the position of the > petcock...there's a thing called a needle-valve in the carb which shuts > off fuel flow when the float gets to the right level, and this is a > favourite for getting gunged up and sticking open. > > > Good luck! > > Andy > > Suffolk, England > > '96 DR350SES > > -----Original Message----- > From: baglien@access1.net [SMTP:baglien@access1.net] > Sent: 17 February 2000 12:58 > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 > > Hi guys, > > I bought a '94 DR350S that has a 441 kit on it. (disclaimer... I don't > have > an actual owners manual, so this may be user error) > > Two days ago I was riding the bike and it seemed to run out of gas even > though > it had a 1/2 of a tank. I have been riding the bike with the fuel petcock > on > "prim" because when I tried riding with it on "ON" the bike died..."out of > gas". > I figured at the time the petcock what screwed up. Yesterday I decided to > try > to figure out what was going on and I took it apart...the gas line is > clear, > so I can see the flow of the gas. The fuel petcock has 3 positions... > reserve, > prim, and on... it also have a vacuum lead from the carb. Prim is direct > fuel > flow and the other two need the engine to be running in order to activate > the > fuel pump in the petcock. When running on prim, I can only seem to use > about > 1/2 my fuel... at that point gravity must not be sufficient to supply the > gas. > When I start the bike, after running for a while in "reserve" or "on", > air > starts getting air into the fuel line. Assuming that the tank is full, > this > would seem to imply that the fuel pump is leaking, wouldn't it? I pulled > the > petcock to see if there are any restrictions (clogged filter) and that is > clear. > > > So what is the proper use of the fuel petcock? I'm assuming now, that > prior > to starting, it should be placed in "prim", then once started, it should > be > switched to "on". > > ALSO, the bike seems to be flooded all the time. This is a new > development... > it use to start pretty well, but now, I have to hold the throttle open all > the > way for the bike to fire. > > Thanks in advance, > > Steve > > it's an enigma. > ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! > http://www.access1.net > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:00:14 -0600 The weather in the Chicago region is beginning to change and in a few more weeks I'll be able to drag the 350 from storage and start riding once again. I bought the bike, a '99 SE, last year and had a great time chugging around on it but noticed, with my big tail on it, the lack of on demand wheelie power. I understand that the street/dirt version of this bike has a slightly different gear ratio than its dirt only brethren. I'd like to change from the 15/43 (I think that's stock) to a 14/47 and was wondering how much easier it will be to loft the front wheel over obstacles as compared to the enormous help I have to give it now. How much of a change did you notice once you made your gearing change and headed for the woods. Did you need to replace or lengthen the chain? I'm not particularly concerned about road performance since I rarely ever go beyond a town ride when on the street. I'm probably going to buy Jesse's airbox for it as well which should also help in the much needed oomph department. Beyond these two changes I don't see me changing much else this year...well tires...I need a better set of tires...something for intermediate terrain would be good. Thanks Eric - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:29:08 -0600 Called U-Haul to get the dimensions, in the conversation he look to see what West Texas need in the way of trailers, turns out they needed 5X8 most, so he gave me a special price on the 5X8 trailer. I guess there are some advantages to living in the big city. Thanks for the info Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar) Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:37:10 -0500 Bryan, I own a little 4x6 trailer and my 94350SE fits in it perfectly. Therefore, yours should too, unless it is 4ft long & 6ft wide (then it would have to be put in sideways :-). Hestonli Bryan Ply wrote: > Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure > out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off > the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone > explain the procedure for taking it off. > > Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a > friends house. > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar) Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Length Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:37:18 -0500 Bryan, I own a little 4x6 trailer and my 94350SE fits in it perfectly. Therefore, yours should too, unless it is 4ft long & 6ft wide (then it would have to be put in sideways :-). Heston Bryan Ply wrote: > Does anyone know the physical length of the DR#%), I am tring to figure > out if I can shoe-horn it in a 4X6 trailer without haveing to take off > the front wheel. If I have to take the front wheel off can someone > explain the procedure for taking it off. > > Be glad to get the house built so I dont have to keep the bike at a > friends house. > > Bryan > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 06:37:50 -0800 Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a tachometer so you can see the rpm's. You will probably have to add a short section of links to the chain with a master on each end. The chain is probably an end less one so you will have to grind the riveted head off flush with the plate then separate it with a chain breaker. Then take the chain in with you when you go to purchase the master links and short section of chain so you get the same or compatible parts to match the chain that you have. The newer masterlinks are a press on type so they have to be pushed on past the groove where the clip goes. This makes them more secure than the old ones that we used to deal with. Hope this helps.......Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Eric Myers Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 6:00 AM The weather in the Chicago region is beginning to change and in a few more weeks I'll be able to drag the 350 from storage and start riding once again. I bought the bike, a '99 SE, last year and had a great time chugging around on it but noticed, with my big tail on it, the lack of on demand wheelie power. I understand that the street/dirt version of this bike has a slightly different gear ratio than its dirt only brethren. I'd like to change from the 15/43 (I think that's stock) to a 14/47 and was wondering how much easier it will be to loft the front wheel over obstacles as compared to the enormous help I have to give it now. How much of a change did you notice once you made your gearing change and headed for the woods. Did you need to replace or lengthen the chain? I'm not particularly concerned about road performance since I rarely ever go beyond a town ride when on the street. I'm probably going to buy Jesse's airbox for it as well which should also help in the much needed oomph department. Beyond these two changes I don't see me changing much else this year...well tires...I need a better set of tires...something for intermediate terrain would be good. Thanks Eric - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Jasniewicz Subject: (dr) wheelie gearing Date: 17 Feb 2000 22:09:09 -0500 don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying) when you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length. My KLR wheelies much easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front. Even in second gear. Who wudda thunk? Eric "no problem" J www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page '98 KLR 650 25,000 miles - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) FW: 2000 Utah Get-Together Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:20:40 -0700 -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:56 AM The 2000 Utah Get-Together will be held in Moab, Utah on June 7,8,9,10. Registration forms and lodging information is located at http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com/ or http://www.dualsport.org/ Registration fee includes 3 catered dinners, a reception, door prizes and entertainment. Join us for 4 days in dual sport heaven. Gino - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:28:13 -0800 "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be > fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a Eric and Jesse, My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain, only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy of hp or torque curves for the CA street model? My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course, impact your mileage as well. -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: baglien@access1.net Subject: Re: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 Date: 17 Feb 2000 17:34:49 GMT Isaac, Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a try...hopefully it will take care of the flooding. My guess is that my fuel pump isn't sealing and is causing air to bleed into the fuel line... creating a version of vacuum lock. Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right hand side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside. I know that on the Calf. bikes, that goes to an anti pollution device. On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go anywhere or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank? Thanks again for your help, Steve >I have the manual, and have read about the petcock. You are supposed to >ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for >long periods. Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself. "pri" is used >when you go to COLD start the bike. What it does, is it will allow gas to >poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for a >while. It helps it start quicker. And of course, you know when to use >reserver : ) So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that >would probably explain why it is always flooded. Once the bike starts, you >switch to "on", and leave it there. > >Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the >tube is smaller than usual, so that the free flow to the carb isn't too >heavy. (that's just a guess ; ) But I don't know why you would be getting >air bubbles in the gas line while on "on". > > > > ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) gas flow on a 94 441 Date: 17 Feb 2000 08:37:07 -0800 Hi Steve, first your petcock is set up with a diaphragm that is pulled away from a seat to allow fuel to flow through to the outlet and down to the carb. When you shut off the motor you shut down the vacuum and the diaphragm moves over the seat and shuts off the fuel. The carb has enough fuel normally to start the engine and activate the diaphragm and resume the fuel flow. This works the same way on reserve mode. Prime is for when you run out of fuel for whatever reason to fill the carb float bowl. there is no pump involved in any of these petcock positions it is all gravity. You have a partial blockage some where I would suggest looking at the needle and seat assy. in the carb and check the o'ring on the seat part it gets deteriorated and can allow fuel to bypass the valve or come apart and plug things up also check the petcock for inside debris by removing it from the fuel tank. Try these things and let me know how you make out......Jesse PS I used to work for hp at the Santa Clara plant -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Eric Jasniewicz Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:09 PM don't forget you are changing the wheelbase, and the center of gravity (or something like that, it changes the "balance point" when wheelying) when you change sprocket sizes using the same chain length. My KLR wheelies much easier with a 16t front sprocket then with a 14 or 15 front. Even in second gear. Who wudda thunk? Eric "no problem" J www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz KLR page '98 KLR 650 25,000 miles - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Gas flow on a '94 441 Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:12:05 -0800 Hi Steve, Carb kit, yes I can dial it for the 441 the advantages are an accelerator pump for instant response, and you have control of the slide vs vacuum as on the cv carb. You can adjust it in the mid range (needle has 5 slots) It can be bored out to 35 mm which works especially well on big bore engines this works extremely well with the Vortex as it gives much better flow to feed the larger displacement engine. All engines are the same in respect to the piston running up and down in a cylinder it is how you feed the engine that makes a difference. The clutch arm should work just fine on your 94 DRS it gives you more leverage for an easier pull. That picture on my website shows where it sets at rest prior to actuating the clutch. Try some of these things an see if it corrects your fuel delivery problem.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of baglien@access1.net Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:35 AM Cc: dr@lists.xmission.com Isaac, Thanks a lot for your information, I'll give the straight "on" a try...hopefully it will take care of the flooding. My guess is that my fuel pump isn't sealing and is causing air to bleed into the fuel line... creating a version of vacuum lock. Another question for you... I see that there is an air vent on the right hand side of the fuel tank.. up on the inside. I know that on the Calf. bikes, that goes to an anti pollution device. On non-Calif bikes, is it suppose to go anywhere or should it just equalize the pressure in the tank? Thanks again for your help, Steve >I have the manual, and have read about the petcock. You are supposed to >ALWAYS leave it on "on", even when you shut the bike off, or store it for >long periods. Sinse it's auto, it will shut off by itself. "pri" is used >when you go to COLD start the bike. What it does, is it will allow gas to >poor into the carb directly, wich is needed when the bike has been off for a >while. It helps it start quicker. And of course, you know when to use >reserver : ) So if you are leaving your bike in pri all the time, that >would probably explain why it is always flooded. Once the bike starts, you >switch to "on", and leave it there. > >Maybe the reason you run out of fuel half way when on "pri" is because the >tube is smaller than usual, so that the free flow to the carb isn't too >heavy. (that's just a guess ; ) But I don't know why you would be getting >air bubbles in the gas line while on "on". > > > > ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 09:27:48 -0800 Hi Wayne, Sorry I don't have the torque curve for the CA street model I would like to have that gear calc thing though whenever you have time. I think you have a better idea by just changing the counter's it would be much easier and you can find what you like with out so much complexity. regards Jesse -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 8:28 AM Cc: Eric Myers; 'dr350' "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be > fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a Eric and Jesse, My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain, only readjust it. I think it will also be able to be adjusted properly with the 13. I ran up gear charts for each using GearCalc. If you don't have it, I could zip it and email to you. I also got a horsepower curve for a dirt model engine, and extrapolated the torque curve, so I could determine the best shift points. Jesse, would you happen to have a copy of hp or torque curves for the CA street model? My riding weight is about 250, and although the extra punch is nice, I don't feel the lower gears are necessary for normal street and back road riding. For single tracks I'd change it to one of the lower ones. It is a bit buzzy with the 14 at 60 mph and above. This would also, of course, impact your mileage as well. -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 11:02:40 -0800 ----- Original Message ----- Cc: "Eric Myers" ; "'dr350'" Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 9:27 AM > Hi Wayne, Sorry I don't have the torque curve for the CA street model I > would like to have that gear calc thing though whenever you have time. Gear Calc can be downloaded from http://www.ironjungle.com/ It really is a neat program. Tell Pat that I sent you. Fred Hink *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* Arrowhead Motorsports www.arrowheadmotorsports.com 435-259-7356 fax 435-259-9148 Moab, Utah *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 12:18:00 -0600 I'll probably start with a counter change first and see what kind of change I get since that would definately be the easiest route. As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front tire easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of it. I imagine that the shortened gearing would give the bike a much needed boost in this arena. It would be nice to just just grab a handful of throttle, as opposed to coaxing the wheel into the air by bouncing the front suspension followed by big arm tug, to loft it up...maybe it's just me? I'm not to worried about highway use since, IMO, highway use is marginal at best for the DR350 in stock form anyway. Generally, if I'm riding on the street, it's just to putter over to a gas station, run a quick errand, or check out the local sites. The times I've taken it out onto the roads and rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning. I debated heavily the option of major suspension mods and a big bore kit, but, won't go this route since the monies spent on those modifications would be better spent on a different or more capable motorcycle. Further, I'm a major spode when it comes to offroad riding (which I really enjoy these days) and probably wouldn't benefit much from the upgrades. I'm rambling...thanks for the suggestions Eric 99 Suzuki DR350SE (mine) 89 Yamaha XT350 (wife's) 98 Honda VTR1000F (mine) 98 Honda XR70R (son's) ---------- Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 10:28 AM Cc: Eric Myers; 'dr350' "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > > Hi Eric, the 14/47 gearing is what came on my 90 dirt model DR I will be > fine off road but may be a little buzzy on the highway. At least you have a "Wayne Marsula" wrote: Eric and Jesse, My 98 SE came with 43/15, and I just changed it to 43/14. It gave me a noticeable increase in torque, but perhaps not as much as you want. I also have a 13 which I will be trying soon. The good part of doing it this way is, at least with the 14, I didn't have to change the chain, - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 10:39:12 -0800 Eric, I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket to do this: > As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front tire > easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of it. >The times I've taken it out onto the roads and > rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars > trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning. At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to, and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you may not gain anything there either. You said "maybe it's just me", and I think it is, that you may be expecting too much from a 350. Personally I don't have any trouble passing at 60 with the 43/14, and not too much difficulty at 43/15. You should be already "planning ahead" when you ride, and doing so makes passing much easier. "Pre-planning", as you call it, IS necessary when riding a bike of this size. If I think I'm going to be in those situations, I take my BMW R100GSPD and leave it in fifth to pass at 60 ;o)>. -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:15:14 -0600 Wayne, I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all. The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention. I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible. Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around 8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty confident in my "good driver" ability. To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear. When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt. Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something. Wayne Marsula Wrote: Eric, I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft sprocket to do this: > As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front tire > easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of it. >The times I've taken it out onto the roads and > rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars > trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning. At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to, and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you may not gain anything there either. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: USSergeant@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 14:33:51 EST Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want to hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies) I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock bike on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change the rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again (bypassing some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and damn scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road. I haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it was very confidence inspiring. Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way. Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not helping the situation. Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a much, much better off road machine. Scott - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:37:20 -0600 Eric, You can always use the 'express lane' to pass (aka the shoulder), at least they do around Dallas. :) Probably not the best option, but its an option. Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chris Tobey Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 13:44:14 -0600 I had the no wheelie syndrome as well. I changed gearing to 14/44 and cut the top out of the airbox, problem fixed. I weigh 205 and about 220 with all the gear. I to have a 99 DR350 but it is the dirt only model. My buddy bought a 00' XR400 last week and my bike held right with his and I thought the throttle response on my DR was much better than the XR. I'm also a fan of the 6 speed tranny. The XR does beat the DR suspension wise though. Since riding his I plan on getting a hold of Jesse here in the near future for stiffer springs front and rear (how much am I looking at here Jesse?) Chris 99' Doc350x > -----Original Message----- > From: USSergeant@aol.com [SMTP:USSergeant@aol.com] > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 1:34 PM > To: emyers@mc.net; dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change > > Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want > to > hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies) > I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock > bike > on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have > crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the > passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change > the > rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want > > two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again > (bypassing > some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty > times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and > damn > scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road. > I > haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it > was > very confidence inspiring. > Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way. > > Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not > > helping the situation. > Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a > much, > much better off road machine. > > Scott > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pablo" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 23:19:53 +0100 Here you have the graphic with the speeds and rpm of a Suzuki DR350SE =B4= 99 (whit original gearing). (made with a program to calculate speed-rpm, loo= k in the other section) http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/catalogoa.htm (here too is it the power o= f the Spanish DR in a graphic) 1.6 km/h =3D 1 milles/hour And here, you have some programs to calculate the speed-rpm-gear http://www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo/downloadsa.htm Bye _______________________________________________ SUZUKI DR350SE "Ride the winds of change" The Suzuki DR350SE web: www.ctv.es/USERS/pasamo - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 17 Feb 2000 16:58:51 -0800 Hi chris , the front triple rate Race Tech kit is $85.00 and if you go the Kouba link route the 7.6 Eibach spring is the same.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Chris Tobey Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 11:44 AM I had the no wheelie syndrome as well. I changed gearing to 14/44 and cut the top out of the airbox, problem fixed. I weigh 205 and about 220 with all the gear. I to have a 99 DR350 but it is the dirt only model. My buddy bought a 00' XR400 last week and my bike held right with his and I thought the throttle response on my DR was much better than the XR. I'm also a fan of the 6 speed tranny. The XR does beat the DR suspension wise though. Since riding his I plan on getting a hold of Jesse here in the near future for stiffer springs front and rear (how much am I looking at here Jesse?) Chris 99' Doc350x > -----Original Message----- > From: USSergeant@aol.com [SMTP:USSergeant@aol.com] > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 1:34 PM > To: emyers@mc.net; dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change > > Hey Eric- you sound like me! (major spode off road, can't and don't want > to > hack it on road with the dr350, can't pull wheelies) > I have the exact same bike- '99 dr350se, I actually took the bone stock > bike > on a 96 mile enduro course in tight, tight southern NJ woods. I must have > crashed a hundred times. First two modifications were to strip off the > passenger pegs, fender extender, chain guard, side reflectors; and change > the > rear sprocket to 47 teeth which required a new chain because I didn't want > > two master links in a lengthened one. Rode the same course again > (bypassing > some of the more tricky sections this time) and only crashed about fifty > times. Next modification was new Dunlop D756 font and back. Not DOT and > damn > scary to ride on the street at any speed, but absolutely awesome off road. > I > haven't ridden any trails yet, but I did take it to my local track and it > was > very confidence inspiring. > Only problem is that I still can't get the front wheel to loft in any way. > > Nada, zilch. Lengthening the chain made my bike longer so I guess I am not > > helping the situation. > Besides not being able to wheelie the bike, these mods have made it a > much, > much better off road machine. > > Scott > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "G. McCumby" Subject: (dr) Tank bags Date: 18 Feb 2000 05:58:11 -0500 Is there a tank bag that will work on a DR-650? Would have to accommodate the vented gas cap. Jerry McCumby '00 DR-650 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: baglien@access1.net Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 12:50:17 GMT If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a look at the White Bro's 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) is a wheelie monster... and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM 440 still makes it look like it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more power than I was expecting. -Steve >Wayne, > >I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all. > The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the >risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention. > I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is >just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to >take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible. > >Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been >riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around >8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in >others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage >and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty >confident in my "good driver" ability. > >To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd >or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is >left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this >speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the >ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability >to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this >quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it >marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles >with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are >forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while >waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear. > >When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a >handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the >first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt. > > >Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers > >Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something. > >Wayne Marsula Wrote: > >Eric, > I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds >riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft >sprocket to do this: >> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front >tire >> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of >it. > >>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and >> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars >> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning. > > At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear >for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and >since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be >even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on >the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to, >and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th >would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you >may not gain anything there either. > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > > ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 05:43:02 -0800 MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a Vortex Airbox....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of baglien@access1.net Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a look at the White Bro's 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) is a wheelie monster... and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM 440 still makes it look like it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more power than I was expecting. -Steve >Wayne, > >I've got a '99 DR350SE and I don't think I'm expecting much from it at all. > The bike is relegated to trail duty and road use is very limited. At the >risk of sounding like a broken record... Highway use is not my intention. > I "rarely" ride the bike on roads posted > 55mph. For "me" the DR350 is >just not a fun bike to ride on those roadways. However, it is a gas to >take into the woods or down a fireroad and I do that as much as possible. > >Don't read to much into the "pre-planning" statement I made, I've been >riding for the last 20 years most of it on the road and usually around >8-10k miles (not on the DR) a year...not much in some books, a boat load in >others, and in Illinois it's huge...add that mileage into my box mileage >and I come close to 45k miles per year of road driving and I'm pretty >confident in my "good driver" ability. > >To clarify what "I" meant about pre-planning, even dropping down into 3rd >or 4th gear to allow for increased acceleration, at 60mph very little is >left in the bike. My '82 Volvo 240 could out accelerate the DR350 at this >speed...and that car is a slug. When passing another vehicle I prefer the >ability to get around it as quickly as is possible allowing me the ability >to get out of the way of any potential oncoming traffic. My VTR does this >quite well, my 911sc does this quite well and my Dodge Caravan does it >marginally well. The DR350 and the Volvo are poor examples of vehicles >with passing power :). This problem is further exacerbated when you are >forced to follow some monkey putting along at 45mph in a 55mph zone while >waiting for a "clear" passing zone to appear. > >When I said "maybe it is just me" I was referring to my inability to grab a >handful of throttle and experience a nice wheel stand....and I'll be the >first to claim spode status when riding in the dirt. > > >Eric (can you tell I've got time on my hands today) Myers > >Got yer helmet on? Good I wanna try something. > >Wayne Marsula Wrote: > >Eric, > I don't remember which DR you have, but with my SE and 250 pounds >riding weight, I think you would need to go to the 13 tooth countershaft >sprocket to do this: >> As I've conveyed, my biggest gripe is "my" inability to loft the front >tire >> easily to clear small objects, holes, small logs or just for the fun of >it. > >>The times I've taken it out onto the roads and >> rambled along at 60mph I was bummed with the lack of ability to pass cars >> trundling along at 55mph without a good deal of pre-planning. > > At 60 with the stock 43/15 you could go all the way down to third gear >for passing. However, fourth would be well on the torque curve, and >since you wouldn't need two extra shifts (one down and one up) it may be >even better. With the 43/13 60 mph would be around 6200 rpm, way up on >the torque. Fourth would be as far as you would want to shift down to, >and that would be at around 8400 rpm and wouldn't gain you anything. 5th >would be about 7000 rpm and the torque is already falling off, so you >may not gain anything there either. > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > > ------------This message was sent using Access1 Mail! http://www.access1.net - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags Date: 18 Feb 2000 06:54:18 -0800 Wolfman makes some good tank bags. You can see the Explorer Tank Bag that I stock at.. http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/specialtypacks%20pages/explorer.html Ask Kurt about this bag. Fred ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 2:58 AM > > Is there a tank bag that will work on a DR-650? Would have to > accommodate the vented gas cap. > Jerry McCumby > '00 DR-650 > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags Date: 18 Feb 2000 10:07:14 -0700 > Wolfman makes some good tank bags. You can see the Explorer Tank Bag that I > stock at.. > http://www.wolfmanluggage.com/specialtypacks%20pages/explorer.html > Ask Kurt about this bag. > > Fred George, the Wolman Explorer has a tremendous reputation among the BMW GS crowd. I just received mine from Fred and it is a very impressive item. I have the IMS tank and Corbin seat on my bike and it looks like it is going to fit perfectly. I'll let you know more in about a week when the bike gets put back together. Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it for a centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies.... Kurt - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Shayne Seefeldt" Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags Date: 18 Feb 2000 11:09:23 -0700 mmmmmmmm............center stand. Shayne "Homer" Seefeldt. By the way, is there a DR web ring like the klr ring? I'm working on my own web page. ---------- >From: "Kurt Simpson" >To: "Fred Hink" , "G. McCumby" , >Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags >Date: Fri, Feb 18, 2000, 10:07 AM > > Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it for a > centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies.... - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 10:31:00 -0800 (PST) If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441 would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go. --- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" wrote: > MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a > Vortex Airbox....Jesse > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com > [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On > Behalf Of baglien@access1.net > Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM > To: dr@lists.xmission.com > Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change > > > If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a > look at the White Bro's > 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) > is a wheelie > monster... > and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM > 440 still makes it look > like > it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more > power than I was expecting. > > > -Steve > > >Wayne, > > >> > > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags Date: 18 Feb 2000 11:40:25 -0700 I think you're the one to start it (g)... Kurt > -----Original Message----- > From: Shayne Seefeldt [mailto:seefeldt@telusplanet.net] > Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 11:09 AM > To: Kurt Simpson > Cc: DR List > Subject: Re: (dr) Tank bags > > > mmmmmmmm............center stand. > > > Shayne "Homer" Seefeldt. > > > By the way, is there a DR web ring like the klr ring? I'm working on my own > web page. > > > > ---------- > >From: "Kurt Simpson" > >To: "Fred Hink" , "G. McCumby" , > > >Subject: RE: (dr) Tank bags > >Date: Fri, Feb 18, 2000, 10:07 AM > > > > > Rumor mill. DualStar has a Y2K DR650 in their shop and they're measuring it > for a > > centerstand, exhaust guard, and some of their other great goodies.... > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Steve and Janet" Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 15:44:48 -0600 I agree that the air box would constrict air flow... so the one on the bike has been modified... that is, it has no top. What advantages does the vortex box have over... um, virtually no air box at all? Jesse... if you come down to GA and tune my bike for me... I'll race ya! :^) >If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441 >would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor >with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the >bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that >much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still >the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go. > >--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" >wrote: >> MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a >> Vortex Airbox....Jesse >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com >> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On >> Behalf Of baglien@access1.net >> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM >> To: dr@lists.xmission.com >> Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change >> >> >> If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a >> look at the White Bro's >> 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) >> is a wheelie >> monster... >> and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM >> 440 still makes it look >> like >> it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more >> power than I was expecting. >> >> >> -Steve >> >> >Wayne, >> > >>> >> > >with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. >> For information on digests or retrieving files and >> old messages send >> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in >> your message. >> >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://im.yahoo.com > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 16:50:52 -0800 Hi Steve, the principal behind the Vortex is to allow the airflow into the engine with the least amount of restriction possible. the way this works is first we have an extra large filter element then the still air chamber that holds a large volume of air within itself. so that when the inlet valves open there is enough air volume to satisfy the engine without having to pull it through the air filter also the still air chamber is acoustically designed to dampen any signs of turbulence which compromises smooth flow the airbox refills itself during the compression, power and exhaust cycles. So I would say that the Vortex airbox is superior to an airfilter just on the carb with no airbox. Hope this answers your questions.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Steve and Janet Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 1:45 PM I agree that the air box would constrict air flow... so the one on the bike has been modified... that is, it has no top. What advantages does the vortex box have over... um, virtually no air box at all? Jesse... if you come down to GA and tune my bike for me... I'll race ya! :^) >If the stock airbox chokes a stock 350 then a 441 >would be strangled.AAHHH to breath life into a motor >with a vortex airbox the more you mod the motor the >bigger the gains from the box.Jesse wont brag that >much about the box(maybe modest) but I will.It's still >the best bang for the buck as far as power adders go. > >--- "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" >wrote: >> MY DR435,runs off and leaves a KTM 500, but it has a >> Vortex Airbox....Jesse >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com >> [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On >> Behalf Of baglien@access1.net >> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 4:50 AM >> To: dr@lists.xmission.com >> Subject: RE: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change >> >> >> If you're looking for a performance hop up... take a >> look at the White Bro's >> 441 kit. My bike (when I've got the carb tuned :^) >> is a wheelie >> monster... >> and it accelerates great in mid-range too (my KTM >> 440 still makes it look >> like >> it is standing still) but the DR has a lot more >> power than I was expecting. >> >> >> -Steve >> >> >Wayne, >> > >>> >> > >with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. >> For information on digests or retrieving files and >> old messages send >> "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in >> your message. >> >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. >http://im.yahoo.com > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Comobu@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) (DR350) Gearing Change Date: 18 Feb 2000 20:35:19 EST Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I love it! From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Lara" Subject: (dr) re: Vortex air box Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:04:32 -0800 Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure) reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine. A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air, lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned air box can help cram more air into the engine. --Greg DR350SE '94 CR250 '91 XR650LE '94 VFR750 '91 -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I love it! >From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:34:08 -0800 Well put Greg.....Jesse -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Greg Lara Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure) reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine. A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air, lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned air box can help cram more air into the engine. --Greg DR350SE '94 CR250 '91 XR650LE '94 VFR750 '91 -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I love it! >From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" Subject: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar Date: 18 Feb 2000 18:44:16 -0800 Greetings, all - Does DualStar have a web page yet? Where are they based, and who carries their stuff? I live in British Columbia, Canada (eh), so dealers in Washington State would be deluxe. Thanks - Lisa - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar Date: 18 Feb 2000 19:26:17 -0800 > Greetings, all - > > Does DualStar have a web page yet? Where are they based, and who carries > their stuff? I live in British Columbia, Canada (eh), so dealers in > Washington State would be deluxe. > > Thanks - > > Lisa They are just south of you (us), near Seattle. Cheers, Arne KLR650 Listmeister Eh 13 www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: erich@ridgecrest.ca.us Subject: (dr) Clinton at it again! Date: 18 Feb 2000 22:18:26 -0800 Clinton is at it again with trying to close off more forest areas. This time the area is in the Sequoia National Forest. He is trying to put another 400,000 acres off limits. The stated reason for closing these areas is to protect sequoia groves outside of the national park system from logging and other unspecified threats. This seems to be a bit disingenous becasue of the political firestorm that would erupt if the Forest Service ever tried to release these groves for logging. President Clinton asked Agriculture Secretary Dan Glickman to make reccomendations within 60 days. Once again the period to try and influence our elected officals is very short. Unfortunately, our Senators are not likely to helpful; Diane Feinstein (of Desert Protection Act fame) and Barbara Boxer (much further to left of Diane Feinstein). All I can do is ask those of you with more sympathetic Senators and Congressmen to have them investigate this new land grab. If you have ever been in the Kennedy/Troy Meadows OHV area, parts of it could be threatened with closure. Also a number of wonderful forest roads in the area will be closed. As most of the area is currently closed by snow, it could well be gone before any of us can ride there again. Thanks Erich 82 XL185S 92 DR350S Erich erich@ridgecrest.ca.us - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box Date: 19 Feb 2000 10:06:31 -0600 Hey Jesse, Is there, or is there ever going to be a Vortex air box for the DR650? JB >>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" 02/18/00 08:34PM >>> Well put Greg.....Jesse -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Greg Lara Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure) reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine. A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air, lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned air box can help cram more air into the engine. --Greg DR350SE '94 CR250 '91 XR650LE '94 VFR750 '91 -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I love it! >From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Wardlow" Subject: (dr) 1993 DR 350 Date: 19 Feb 2000 15:05:43 -0800 I have a 93 DR 350 that has been flawless for since the day I bought it new. I havent rid it in about 6 months and when I went to start it, I broke the compresion cable. No big deal. I have started it several times with out one. Well this time I could not get it to start. So I left it alone and ordered a new cable. After installing the new cable I have found that I have no compression now. I can crank it over with my hand. After investigating further I have found that the compression lever on the motor is some what stiff. So I moved it around by hand and after turning it to the corect postion for the motor to be running, I have more compresion, but cn still kick it over with my foot easly. After taking off the caps on the top of the engine I have found that when I pull the cable and the decompresion lever opens, after kicking it over, It does not click and go back to the closed postion. Any help would be great. Thanks. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike A Hyers Subject: Re: (dr) mmmmmm ... DualStar Date: 19 Feb 2000 22:18:37 -0800 Lisa, Dual-star's web site is http://www.dual-star.com/ , unfortunately there is not much up for dr's yet. It's worth checking out for the klr stuff though. Mike - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Iain Wilson Subject: (dr) Grease specification Date: 20 Feb 2000 20:04:21 +0000 Hi, Could I ask which preparation of Castrol grease is best for the suspension on my 99 DR 350 please? Thanks, Iain - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) re: Vortex air box Date: 20 Feb 2000 23:56:18 -0800 Hi Jan, I have a fellow that is supposed to bring one over this coming week to check out the feasability of fitting one up to the late DR650. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jan Bradley Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 8:07 AM dr350@lists.xmission.com; jesse@rvi.net Hey Jesse, Is there, or is there ever going to be a Vortex air box for the DR650? JB >>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" 02/18/00 08:34PM >>> Well put Greg.....Jesse -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Greg Lara Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:05 PM Ideally, an air box should be tuned like a pipe, but to deliver the opposite effect. In the case of a pipe, after an exhaust pulse leaves the port and travels to the end of the pipe, a negative wave (a pulse of low pressure) reflects back from the opening at the end of the pipe and travels back to the exhaust port. A performance pipe is tuned so that the negative wave arrives at the exhaust port just as the port is opening. This encourages the exhaust gasses to exit the combustion chamber more quickly, allowing for more rapid replenishment of fresh fuel-air mixture. In this way, a tuned pipe allows the engine to breathe even more freely than an engine with no pipe at all. That is, a tuned pipe helps suck exhaust from the engine. A similar even takes place within the air box. The engine gulps in air, lowering the air pressure inside the air box. Outside air then rushes into the air box under atmospheric pressure. Even as the pressure inside the air box becomes equal to pressure outside, the momentum of the in-rushing air carries a little more air into the air box, raising the pressure inside the air box above atmospheric pressure. If the air box is tuned right, the pressure inside the air box should reach its maximum just as the engine takes its next gulp of air. In the ideal case, more air flows into the engine with the air box than with a bare carburetor. In other words, a tuned air box can help cram more air into the engine. --Greg DR350SE '94 CR250 '91 XR650LE '94 VFR750 '91 -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Comobu@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 5:35 PM Inlet valves opening, still air chambers filling, engines being satisfied...I love it! >From what little I know, I'm going to say Jesse's right.. an airbox is better thru out the RPM range than just a sock airfilter... there's some mysterious sonic wave pulses within the box that's part of the design and overall tuning of the motor... like a flute meant to resoanate at different notes... because I know you can't just drill big holes indiscrimintly (in a hurry my spelling sucks) in the airbox... it ruins the awesome powerband of the DR! Guy - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chris Tobey Subject: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x) Date: 21 Feb 2000 07:52:55 -0600 Hi list, went riding saturday and had trouble shifting at high rpm's. When starting from a dead stop and going from 1st gear up to 6th at high rpm's my bike didn't want to shift. It was usually from 3rd to 4th and from 4th to 5th but sometimes it happened from 2nd to 3rd. Has anyone else experienced this and if so does anyone know what could cause this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Chris 99 DR350X - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: andy.doyle@bt.com Subject: FW: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x) Date: 21 Feb 2000 14:28:59 -0000 > -----Original Message----- > From: Doyle,A,Andy,NZI2 DOYLEA R > Sent: 21 February 2000 14:28 > To: 'dr@lists.xmission.com' > Subject: RE: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x) > > I had a severe problem with my gearbox on a trip down to Wales last > summer. Having covered 1200 miles only able to use 4th, 5th and 6th, and > those reluctantly, when I got home I took the clutch cover off. There is > a bolt on the end of the gear selector mechanism which had worked loose. > Tightening it up (with a bit of Locktite) cured it completely. You can > get problems finding neutral if the clutch is dragging, but this doesn't > usually affect other gear changes. If your bike is still under warranty > let some other bugger fix it! > > Cheers! > > Andy > > -----Original Message----- > From: Chris Tobey [SMTP:christ@h-jenterprises.com] > Sent: 21 February 2000 13:53 > To: 350 Mail List (E-mail) > Subject: (dr) shifting trouble(dr305x) > > Hi list, went riding saturday and had trouble shifting at high rpm's. > When > starting from a dead stop and going from 1st gear up to 6th at high rpm's > my > bike didn't want to shift. It was usually from 3rd to 4th and from 4th to > 5th but sometimes it happened from 2nd to 3rd. Has anyone else > experienced > this and if so does anyone know what could cause this? Any help would be > appreciated. > > Thanks, Chris > 99 DR350X > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "G. McCumby" Subject: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:41:14 -0500 There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them about it. Many thanks Jerry McCumby Sunset Beach NC - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 08:48:36 -0800 HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have. Ph 541 472-0835 Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of G. McCumby Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them about it. Many thanks Jerry McCumby Sunset Beach NC - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: USSergeant@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:52:37 EST I've seen these trailers you speak of at Home Depot, Builders Square, Hechingers. Never tried one out, but it may do the trick... Scott 99 dr350se - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Minh Lang Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 11:51:00 -0800 (PST) I have a Kendon 3-rail stand-up trailer. I paid $1400 for it last year (with the optional spare tire, jack stand, and wider rail for either a dirt/street bike in the center rail). Their web site is www.kendontrailers.com. = Minh = 96 DR-350SE 97 Honda CBR-1100xx 96 Suzuki Bandit 600 --- "G. McCumby" wrote: > > There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage > wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can > anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them > about it. Many thanks > Jerry McCumby > Sunset Beach NC > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200 Hi guys Thanks Andy and Jan My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought) Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE. How painful is the process,would it be really expensive operation.What are the parts you need. That leads to my second question, is it possible or easy to push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual de-compression lever. I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike would push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate moments) Thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 21 Feb 2000 15:01:22 -0800 (PST) I have push started my 350SE after running the battery dead in the woods.I had the help of two guys to push it up a hill for me to go back down and pop it in 2nd gear. --- mikko vimpari wrote: > Hi guys Thanks Andy > and Jan > > My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery > is a worrying thought) > Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE. > How painful is the process,would it be really > expensive operation.What are the parts you need. > > That leads to my second question, is it possible or > easy to > push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual > de-compression lever. > I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead > battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike > would > push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate > moments) > > Thanks > > Mikko Vimpari > > > > > > > > > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!! Date: 21 Feb 2000 15:24:15 -0800 (PST) My buddy just picked up a brand spankin new XR 400.What a nice machine it is well more worthy of dirt in stock form than the DR(350).well as I was sure would happen when we went for a road cruise we had to punch off.I figured he would not have any trouble putting some bike lengths on me.Well I was wrong my bike is a ball hair slower than his.Jesse's Vortex airbox was shining like a diamond today.We went at it twice he barely creeped on me at about 65mph the first run.The second time I wacked the throttle when he did and we ran dead even to about 70!!Now of course his bike is 100% stock and will get a couple of horseys after break in but I was very pleased.I have Jesse's Vortex airbox,JX needle and spring kit an FMF powercore4 muffler,and a 147.5 main jet.This combo will wake a stock 350 up like a son of a gun.It comes dam close to an XR 400.My biggest gains in my opinion comes from the well breathing airbox it's worth every last dime.You would indeed be shocked at the snap it gives the bike.Suzuki did a piss poor job on the stock one.The Honda's suspension is out of this world.I will still take him to school in the woods though as he is not YET a good rider. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Swamprider" Subject: (dr) Georgia Dual Sport Ride Date: 21 Feb 2000 18:34:13 -0500 You can download a copy (MS Word format) of the entry form for the 2000 edition of the Chattahoochee Forest Dual Sport Ride, in Suches GA on June 10/11 at the website of the organization that brings you dual sporting southern style, the WDSRC! http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 While you're there, go to the ride reviews and check out the story and pictures from last years "Hooch"! Entry is limited to 100 due to the forestry department, and this event fills up quickly! Last year it filled in 20 days thanks to the WDSRC! So go check it out, it's some of the prettiest riding in the southeast! And while your at it, check out the rest of the website, we think you'll be impressed at what's happening in the Southeast! Robert Frey Founder: WDSRC Editor: Southern Dual Sporter Newsletter "Loud Pipes Risk Rights! Be Responsible, Be Quiet!" wdsrc@gte.net Visit The WDSRC Website at http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Doug B Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 09:58:53 -0800 Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local rides because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping trips that involve riding. The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at: http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm Doug 94 350SE -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:49 AM HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have. Ph 541 472-0835 Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of G. McCumby Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them about it. Many thanks Jerry McCumby Sunset Beach NC - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: RE: (dr) Trailers Date: 21 Feb 2000 20:21:20 -0600 That Trailer rocks! I've got a 5x10 enclosed trailer to haul our three motorcycles and have thought about adding some shelving and boxes to better hold our camp gear. I'm always looking for some good ideas to improve it. Eric ---------- Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 11:58 AM Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local rides because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping trips that involve riding. The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at: http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm Doug 94 350SE -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:49 AM HI Jerry, I have a Kendon stand up trailer and its a nice little unit. You can contact me either by phone or e-mail with any questions you may have. Ph 541 472-0835 Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of G. McCumby Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 8:41 AM There is a small storable trailer sold. Stands up against the garage wall when stored. Name is sort of like Kenyon or close to that. Can anyone help me on this. If anyone has one, I'd like to talk to them about it. Many thanks Jerry McCumby Sunset Beach NC - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (dr) Trailers Date: 22 Feb 2000 01:22:37 -0800 > Sometimes I'd like to have a small trailer like that to use for local rides > because my trailer is overkill for anything other than overnight camping > trips that involve riding. > The other day I created a web page about the trailer that can be seen at: > http://members.tripod.com/dougb1969/trlr/trailer.htm > > Doug > 94 350SE Hey Doug, what are the interior dimensions of that trailer of yours? Cheers, Arne KLR650 Listmeister Eh 13 www.mac-d.com MAC-D Homepage http://members.dencity.com/candidcamera My Motorcycle Rides Page - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chris Tobey Subject: (dr) fork oil change (DR350) Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:07:27 -0600 I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks, should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special tools or tricks needed to do the job? Thanks in advance, Chris - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dhchas@cs.com Subject: Re: (dr) My 98 DR350 vs 00XR400 details inside!!!! Date: 22 Feb 2000 11:09:25 EST John, Thanks for the report. I am curious if you have checked your mileage with your current set-up. With my stock set-up and an Acerbis 4.5 gal. tank, my bike gets about 54 mpg on the highway and 65 mpg off road. I have well over 200 miles on tap, regardless of the conditions, which is always reassuring. It seems that the mods you have done are a nice way to go for some additional snap. Harral Chastain - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) fork oil change (DR350) Date: 22 Feb 2000 08:20:00 -0800 HI Chris, first make sure that you have a socket the best choice, or a large crescent wrench default choice that will fit the hex on the fork cap (channel lock pliers not a choice). Prior to attempting to loosen the fork cap you will have to loosen the two top pinch bolts only. remove the weight from the front wheel then you can loosen the fork cap. Once the fork cap is loose you can remove the front wheel you can now loosen the bottom pinch bolts and the front brake caliper bolts then slide the fork down and out of the triple clamps. Once you remove the cap you will have to separate it from the damper rod that is screwed into it and a locking nut is on the damper rod tightened up against the cap that must be loosened prior to unscrewing the cap from the damper rod. Once you get the cap off pull out the spring and collapse the fork assembly and measure the level of the oil from the top edge of the fork tube. This will give you a base level and you can go from there when you refill them with new oil I usually go with a 5 and one half inches. You can now dump out the oil and pump the forks until all the oil is removed. Fill the forks with a light cartridge fork oil 7and one half wt Maxima or motul are good choices this measurement thing is always done with the spring out and totally collapsed mode you must pump the forks up and down until every thing is filled inside prior to measuring the oil level. Once the level is established you can reinstall the spring after you pull up the damper rod attach the rod to the cap and screw it in all the way then lock the locking nut up against the cap and screw the cap into the top of the fork tube just snug the cap into the fork tube it will not loosen up once the pinch bolts are tight. Now you know what you are facing with the second fork if you have more Questions give me call or e-mail. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Chris Tobey Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 6:07 AM I was planning on changing the fork oil in my forks tonight after work and I had a couple of questions. I have a 99' DR350X (dirt version) with the compression and dampening adjusters on the top and bottom of the forks, should I adjust them to one extreme (hard or soft) or is it ok to leave them to what I have them set at now. Next question is, does anyone know the proper amount of oil to add to the forks? Lastly, is there any special tools or tricks needed to do the job? Thanks in advance, Chris - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Lara" Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 22 Feb 2000 09:01:05 -0800 I bump start my '94 DR350SE all the time. I am afraid of running the battery down when in the wilderness. When I get ready to kill the motor, I try to make sure that I stop uphill. I just coast downhill in 2nd gear to start her back up. I save the battery for the times when I crash or stall in a position that does not allow me to bump start the bike. I have push started the bike by myself on pavement, but it is very difficult. I think it would not be possible on a flat dirt road or trail. --Greg -----Original Message----- Behalf Of mikko vimpari Sent: Monday, February 21, 2000 1:53 PM Hi guys Thanks Andy and Jan My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought) Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE. How painful is the process,would it be really expensive operation.What are the parts you need. That leads to my second question, is it possible or easy to push start SE,despite of that it's lacking manual de-compression lever. I have once been stuck to the wilds with a dead battery(Honda NX 650), there's no way that bike would push start, no matter what gear on. (desperate moments) Thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 22 Feb 2000 22:08:29 +0200 Thanks for replying guys I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but.... Is that automatic decompression system connected to the starter knob? If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever and same time press the starter knob( that would activate decompression system),so bike would start easier. I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally wrong. Many thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: Re:(dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 22 Feb 2000 23:10:27 +0200 Sorry, i forgot to mention, of course i was talking about the bike with a dead battery Mikko ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 10:08 PM > Thanks for replying guys > > I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but.... > Is that automatic decompression system connected > to the starter knob? > If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever > and same time press the starter knob( that would > activate decompression system),so bike would > start easier. > I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally > wrong. > > Many thanks > > Mikko Vimpari > > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Hoge, Neill" Subject: (dr) High Idle Date: 22 Feb 2000 18:55:29 -0500 Hi list, Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married, 12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is plugged with mud or something? Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 22 Feb 2000 17:57:19 -0800 HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built into the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression will be relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the cam disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of mikko vimpari Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM Thanks for replying guys I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but.... Is that automatic decompression system connected to the starter knob? If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever and same time press the starter knob( that would activate decompression system),so bike would start easier. I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally wrong. Many thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) High Idle Date: 22 Feb 2000 18:17:40 -0800 Hi Hoge, I would say check your cables and make sure your choke is pushed in all the way. Try reaching in and pushing the carb wheel that the cables are attached to to the closed position. The carb can get a little scuzzy under the black top cover also. It should snap back with authority when you open the throttle and just let it go. You might also check the throttle assembly and make sure it is free and about 1/8 inch away from the handlebar end. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Hoge, Neill Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 3:55 PM Hi list, Please let me introduce myself, my name is Neill in Spotsylvania, VA. I bought a 99 350 dirt last May, and have lurking around this great list from soon after. The bike has around 1400 miles, all close to home on logging trails. (pulpwood). Its the first time I've ha da bike since I got married, 12 or so years ago, and I should have never stopped riding! Bike is all stock -- although I got a baja light kit and plan on performance mods (can't go wrong with the Vortex airbox, jetting and exhaust i have learned here).The bike got harder to start in the fall/winter -- I attributed it to the colder temps. Who ever gave that tip about tipping the bike on its side and back upright (this works for me)has saved me many a kick, I'm convinced!! Now, after the bike warms up, it tends to go into a high idle when I throttle down or put in neutral for a pit stop. revving it does no good -- if I put it in a higher gear (put some strain on the engine) it will slow down. I'm wondering if the hard to start problem and fast idle are related, although they didn't start at the same time. Also, been riding in snow, cutover trees and alot of mud lately, is it possible that something is plugged with mud or something? Any feedback appreciated and thanks to all. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: X5Worms@aol.com Subject: (dr) New member Date: 23 Feb 2000 03:36:22 EST Hello everyone. Just like to introduce myself and thank Arne Larsen from the KLR list for referring me over here. I recently bought a 95 DR650. After 16 years of riding, this is the first dual sport I've owned. Too bad I didn't get one earlier, they certainly are alot of fun. Though at the moment, the bike is in need of new steering head bearings. Any advice as to the type of bearings I should use??? EVAN - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) DR350 Owners Date: 23 Feb 2000 12:25:14 -0000 Hi ! I am trying to find a DR350 discussion lists - is this the only one or can anyone suggest another ? Thanks - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Myers Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Owners Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:49:39 -0600 It's the only DR list I've ever found. Have a question, comment, etc, post it. Eric ---------- I am trying to find a DR350 discussion lists - is this the only one or can anyone suggest another ? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 23 Feb 2000 08:46:07 -0600 Jesse, Is the '98 DR650SE this way too? I wonder about push starting mine. I know there was no way to push start my old '92 DR650. No matter what gear, the rear wheel would just slide, but it had the manual comp release. Just a thought since I have no kick start lever either. JB >>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" 02/22/00 07:57PM >>> HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built into the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression will be relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the cam disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of mikko vimpari Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM Thanks for replying guys I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but.... Is that automatic decompression system connected to the starter knob? If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever and same time press the starter knob( that would activate decompression system),so bike would start easier. I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally wrong. Many thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 23 Feb 2000 06:57:30 -0800 Hi Jan, if I said yes it would be an educated guess. Since this this newer engine is based on the same design as the 350 I would think that it would be the same. However I have not had one apart or seen the manual so I cannot say for sure. You could try starting it on a hill just to check it out though. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jan Bradley Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 6:46 AM Jesse, Is the '98 DR650SE this way too? I wonder about push starting mine. I know there was no way to push start my old '92 DR650. No matter what gear, the rear wheel would just slide, but it had the manual comp release. Just a thought since I have no kick start lever either. JB >>> "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" 02/22/00 07:57PM >>> HI Mikko, your compression release on DR350se's after 1994 are built into the camshaft and have no manual compression release. The compression will be relieved until the motor starts. The compression release device in the cam disengages once the motor starts by centrifugal force. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of mikko vimpari Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 12:08 PM Thanks for replying guys I'm slightly confused...This is a dumb question,but.... Is that automatic decompression system connected to the starter knob? If so,when you push the bike, release clutch lever and same time press the starter knob( that would activate decompression system),so bike would start easier. I know this theory sounds funny, probably i'm totally wrong. Many thanks Mikko Vimpari - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) New member Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:14:51 -0800 Hi Evan just remove them and take them to your local bearing supply house. The races may be a little difficult to remove from the steering head and the lower steering stem If they are free of any pits rust or corrosion you may get away with just the tapered bearings. I would not recommend this on wheel bearings but the amount of movement on the steering is so slight it is not as critical a situation due to the fact that they are not heated up like wheel bearings. Use a good boat trailer wheel bearing grease on them during replacement this will protect them from moisture. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of X5Worms@aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 12:36 AM Hello everyone. Just like to introduce myself and thank Arne Larsen from the KLR list for referring me over here. I recently bought a 95 DR650. After 16 years of riding, this is the first dual sport I've owned. Too bad I didn't get one earlier, they certainly are alot of fun. Though at the moment, the bike is in need of new steering head bearings. Any advice as to the type of bearings I should use??? EVAN - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jonathan Moon Subject: (dr) Used DR350 price? Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:40:43 -0800 (PST) Hey there listers: I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt go through. I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but does anyone know what kind of price range I should be looking at? ===== Jonathan L. Moon Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology University of Georgia Voice (706)-542-1713 Fax (706)-542-3719 email: jlmoon@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) Used DR350 price? Date: 23 Feb 2000 07:46:44 -0800 Hi Jonathon, maybe $1200 to $1500 Check it out good. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jonathan Moon Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 7:41 AM Hey there listers: I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt go through. I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but does anyone know what kind of price range I should be looking at? ===== Jonathan L. Moon Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology University of Georgia Voice (706)-542-1713 Fax (706)-542-3719 email: jlmoon@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: hlamar@wfubmc.edu (Heston LaMar) Subject: Re: (dr) Used DR350 price? Date: 23 Feb 2000 10:51:39 -0500 6K miles is very low for a 1990 bike -- may have set for a long time (not necessarily good for a bike). Make sure to give it a thorough test ride and have someone who knows these bikes to check it out. If all is in good condition, I would say around $1300-1400. Check out http://www.kellysbluebook.com/ also -- gives prices for trade-in & retail of bikes, cars, etc. by year and area of country. Heston 94350SE Jonathan Moon wrote: > Hey there listers: > I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never > showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt > go through. > > I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles > on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least > the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but > does anyone know what kind of price range I should be > looking at? > > ===== > Jonathan L. Moon > Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology > University of Georgia > > Voice (706)-542-1713 > Fax (706)-542-3719 > email: jlmoon@yahoo.com > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. > http://im.yahoo.com > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) Archives Date: 23 Feb 2000 16:21:28 -0000 Hi - could someone please help me with retrieving the archives ? I have got the index but the get command doesn't work as it is not obvious which filenames to use. Here's the first few lines.... total 8 drwxrwxr-x 2 domo domo 4096 Feb 22 19:20 archive ./archive: total 3096 -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 254363 Jan 31 11:56 dr.200001 -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 465351 Feb 23 08:52 dr.200002 Thanks ! - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dhchas@cs.com Subject: Re: (dr) Used DR350 price? Date: 23 Feb 2000 12:43:42 EST In a message dated 2/23/00 7:42:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, jlmoon@yahoo.com writes: << Hey there listers: I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt go through. I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but does anyone know what kind of price range I should be looking at? >> You are in luck Jonathan. Motorcycle Consumer News just published their spring used bike value guide. Full retail for the bike you are looking at is listed at $1600. This price represents a stock motorcycle in either reconditioned or clean undamaged, well-maintained condition. Damaged or otherwise non-working parts would lower the price, useful accessories could raise it. Recently replaced wear items such as tires or a bad clutch, etc. do not affect the price. However, worn out tires, frayed cables, slipping clutch, torn seat cover, etc. would definitely lower the price. Hope this helps Harral Chastain - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ludwig Geromiller" Subject: Re: (dr) 350SE kickstart? Date: 23 Feb 2000 22:12:53 +0000 (:) Hi Mikko, I just installed one for my '96 SE two weeks ago. I used some old Parts of my '91 DRS. you'll need: - kickstart - kickstart-shaft with spring - shaft-sealing for the clutch-cover - a little piece of steel is fixed to the aluminum-housing by 2 screws - sprocket between kickstart-shaft and clutch You'll have to dismount the clutch to get the sprocket in. The clutch-fixing-nut was loose (held only by the sheet-metal) an all three stock-engines i dismounted. This seems to be a weak point, so check it out. the parts are about 2kg additional weight. I did it for 2 reasons: 1. my battery is weak 2. i had the parts in my garage and wanted to know if they fit :-) greets from germany Ludwig http://www.ccwn.org/~lgeromil/motorrad/dr350e.htm On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote: >My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying thought) >Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE. >How painful is the process,would it be really >expensive operation.What are the parts you need. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "James Alan Tomkins" Subject: RE: (dr) Used DR350 price? Date: 23 Feb 2000 19:00:05 -0500 Jonathan: If you want a guide, Kelly Blue Book found at www.kbb.com gives both trade in and retail prices for recreational vehicles (including motorcycles). They list the 1992 DR350 at $1290. I've found the site to be pretty good as a standard from which to start. Jim Tomkins Harrisburg, Pennsylvania 1998 DR650SEW -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jonathan Moon Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 10:41 AM Hey there listers: I sent a message about this yesterday, but as it never showed up in my inbox from the list i assume it didnt go through. I found a used 1990 DR350S (dual sport) with 6K miles on it. The tach doesnt work and this guy is at least the 2nd owner. I haven't seen it yet in person, but does anyone know what kind of price range I should be looking at? ===== Jonathan L. Moon Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology University of Georgia Voice (706)-542-1713 Fax (706)-542-3719 email: jlmoon@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Lisa Bierlmeier" Subject: (dr) used DR350 Date: 23 Feb 2000 17:22:31 -0800 Hey, Jonathan - Just over a year ago, I bought a used DR650 that had sat a while (of course, the dealer assured me that it had been stored properly ...) When the bike started running poorly, I found that the tank was riddled with rust inside, necessitating the use of a POR-15 3-step tank resurfacing kit. Be sure to check this out. Mine had rust along the bottom of the 'hips' as well as on the top of the tank. Applying the kit is more of a time-consumer than anything, but without it the resulting spooge will clog your jets. Lisa - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: (dr) DR650SE Throttle tube Date: 23 Feb 2000 19:55:10 -0600 Does anyone know if an aftermarket (metal etc) throttle tube is available for the DR650SE? As you all know, the factory one has the grip molded to it. I can get it off, it's just a pain in the you know what. Jesse? Thanks.. JB - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: Re: (dr) DR650SE Throttle tube Date: 23 Feb 2000 18:42:18 -0800 (PST) ---I just took mine off my 350SE.I used my dremel with a sanding drum it made short work of this otherwise timely task.One other brief piont you guys make sure you keep your cables(throttle,clutch)lubed up good.I just did mine and I must say it brought it back to "buttery smooth". --- Jan Bradley wrote: > Does anyone know if an aftermarket (metal etc) > throttle tube is > available for the DR650SE? As you all know, the > factory one has the grip > molded to it. I can get it off, it's just a pain in > the you know what. > Jesse? > Thanks.. > > JB > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to > "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and > old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in > your message. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 24 Feb 2000 11:56:34 +0200 Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too. One guy told me that G=F6tz enduro market has a big 18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis) gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know anything about that tank, or has that G=F6tz any homepage. Thanks and greetings from Finland Mikko PS: Thank you for the good DR 350 homepages Ludwig and Pablo. ----- Original Message ----- =46rom: Ludwig Geromiller net> Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 12:12 AM > Hi Mikko, > > I just installed one for my '96 SE two weeks ago. I used some old P= arts of my '91 DRS. > you'll need: > - kickstart > - kickstart-shaft with spring > - shaft-sealing for the clutch-cover > - a little piece of steel is fixed to the aluminum-housing by 2 scr= ews > - sprocket between kickstart-shaft and clutch > You'll have to dismount the clutch to get the sprocket in. > The clutch-fixing-nut was loose (held only by the sheet-metal) an a= ll three stock-engines > i dismounted. This seems to be a weak point, so check it out. > > the parts are about 2kg additional weight. I did it for 2 reasons: > 1. my battery is weak > 2. i had the parts in my garage and wanted to know if they fit :-) > > greets from germany > Ludwig > > http://www.ccwn.org/~lgeromil/motorrad/dr350e.htm > > > On Mon, 21 Feb 2000 23:53:08 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote: > > >My curiosity got me to ask again...(a dead battery is a worrying t= hought) > >Has anybody installed a kick-starter to 350SE. > >How painful is the process,would it be really > >expensive operation.What are the parts you need. > > > > - > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages se= nd > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 24 Feb 2000 06:18:13 -0800 mikko vimpari wrote: > > Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info > > Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too. > One guy told me that Götz enduro market has a big > 18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis) > gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know > anything about that tank, or has that Götz any homepage. > > Thanks and greetings from Finland > Mikko > PS: Thank you for the good DR 350 homepages Ludwig and Pablo. > Mikko, Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25 U.S. gallons. Wayne -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) DR350 Opinion Date: 24 Feb 2000 15:28:02 -0000 Ludwig, (and other DR350 owners) I had a look at your website and found it useful and interesting. I have owned my '98 DR350SE for two years now and think its a great bike after 10k miles of trail riding. As a new member to this list I hope no-one minds if I share my thoughts on the bike. As a background I am British living in the South of England, 34 married 3 kids. I love the DR even though I know it is a compromise and there are better bikes out there. I like its simplicity and general feeling of toughness and reliability. Mine is the black model which I think looks really nice and not as dated as the basic design. I use 14/43 gearing generally which is the best compromise I've found for trail riding. The 15/43 is good for road use but the engine loses its lively acceleration. With 14/43 you can still cruise at 70mph which is fast enough for the roads I use. A top speed of about 85 on the flat. You cannot expect too much from a 350cc bike, but it is certainly not slow, overtaking cars never a problem. Surprising amount of revs available if you want to go quickly. Off-road the rear tire normally limits how fast you can accelerate - when its wet you can just keep shifting up and make use of the low end torque. With a bit of practice you can pull third gear wheelies forever which is impressive for an electric start four-stroke. A friend with a low mileage 94 model rode my bike and was surprised at how much quicker mine is - does anyone know of any subtle improvements over the years? Most of my riding is in mud, and in the Summer, slightly drier mud ! There is no doubt the DR is heavier than a two stroke but I love the sound, feel and torque of the DR. You only notice the weight when its really wet. I use a modest Chen Shin trail tire on the back - its about the same grip as an MT21 (itself not a very good tire for mud anyway), but much cheaper. And you can abuse it on gravel and tarmac without being concerned about the cost - fun ! On the front the bigger the knobs the better. The mud wrecks the bike. The original chain somehow lasted 8k miles with about 3 front sprockets, brake pads can disappear in less than 1000 miles ! Front tires last ages probably because the front brake is not very powerful, rears 2-3k mls. I keep the rear linkage well greased and regularly drop the wheels out to dry and grease the bearing seals. The throttle cable needs regular oiling but I made a shield to stop water spraying over the carburetor and cable ends which has helped immensely. Fuel consumption very good - four hours on a tank full usually. Other than wear and tear items the bike has been completely reliable. Synthetic oil reduces clutch drag and keeps the gear change smooth. Clutchless up-changes smooth anyway. Starting no problem with the button, even after, ahem, falling off. After more than about two weeks storage the float bowl must be drained and re-filled or starting is not so good. I've kept the bike near to standard as I'm not a great believer in heavily modifying bikes. If you want more power get a bigger bike - it will be more reliable. I am confident that I can give the DR loads of abuse and it will keep going for many years. I also have a KLX650 - more power, especially at high speed. Much heavier off-road And KMX125 two-smoker- almost as fast ! (if thrashed), much lighter. More thirsty.... But for 95% of the time the DR is easily my fave. I wrote an email on trail riding in the UK if anyone is interested. Perhaps I'll post it if no-one objects. Sorry for the length of my ramblings but I am quite passionate about my trail-riding ! Steve - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ludwig Geromiller" Subject: Re: (dr) DR350 Opinion Date: 24 Feb 2000 22:38:31 +0000 (:) On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 15:28:02 -0000, Copsey, Stephen J (Steve) wrote: >I had a look at your website and found it useful and interesting. I have Thanks a lot. Maybe you can give me some tips regarding the translation :-) My english is a bit rusty... >I love the DR even though I know it is a compromise and there are better >bikes out there. I like its simplicity and general feeling of toughness and >reliability. ... >I use 14/43 gearing generally which is the >best compromise I've found for trail riding. The 15/43 is good for road use >but the engine loses its lively acceleration. With 14/43 you can still >cruise at 70mph which is fast enough for the roads I use. A top speed of >about 85 on the flat. You got the point. The stock gearing of 15/43 is for noise-laws. My DR has a little switch on the carb which will change the ignitiontime in 2nd and 3rd gear at full acceleration, just to keep the bike quiet in one specific noise-test at around 50 kph. The first thing i did as i got the bike was unplugging this switch :-) >A friend with a low mileage 94 model rode my bike and was surprised at how >much quicker mine is - does anyone know of any subtle improvements over the >years? No. I feel like my '91 DRS went significantly faster than my '96 DR SE inspite the '96 has 30 hp and the old '91 27hp in the papers. The exhaust got bigger, the weight got more with electric start. The 27hp in the papers might be because of an old restriction here in germany for driving-license newbies. There was a limit for power/weight ratio, wich wouldn't allow to drive the DR350 with more than 27hp. :-)) Regarding the Chen Shin tires: Good tip. I'll check where i can get some. How much are they in your area? >The mud wrecks the bike. The original chain somehow lasted 8k miles with >about 3 front sprockets, brake pads can disappear in less than 1000 miles ! This depends on the stuff you are driving in. Two years ago i lost a set of brakepads in one day (about 200 mls) in Senftenberg, Lausitz, south of Berlin. The area is full of sand sith some brown-coal in it. The weather was rainy/snowy and the sand/coal/water mix ate my newworthy brakepads in one single day. >I wrote an email on trail riding in the UK if anyone is interested. Perhaps >I'll post it if no-one objects. Please go on! - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ludwig Geromiller" Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 24 Feb 2000 22:06:17 +0000 (:) Mikko, i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good this t= ank fits or if it is stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only abo= ut 15 Liters. G=F6tz is here in south-germany, Bisingen, just about 200 km from here. G=F6tz has no Internet-site and the catalog i ordered 4 weeks ago has st= ill not arrived... They seem to be NOT very reliable (*: I will inform you about the tank as soon as i get my catalog. On Thu, 24 Feb 2000 11:56:34 +0200, mikko vimpari wrote: >Hi Ludwig thanks Jesse for info > >Thanks for the advices, i'll be chasing those used parts too. >One guy told me that G=F6tz enduro market has a big >18 liter(don't know in gallons, bigger than Acerbis) >gasoline tank for the DR 350.Ludwig, do you know >anything about that tank, or has that G=F6tz any homepage. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: aches@deltech.net (Chesley, Andrus) Subject: (dr) Re:plastic tanks Date: 24 Feb 2000 15:56:05 -0600 >> Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25 U.S. Be sure to find out much of the fuel is useable without having to lay the bike down on it's side to get to the fuel that wont cross over. -- Best Regards & Happy Trails Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking Y2KLR650 @ 2.9K sMiles 97 R11RA (Amiga) @ 11.6K Miles So Many Roads, So Little Time http://members.deltech.net/aches/ - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 24 Feb 2000 14:16:14 -0800 Ludwig Geromiller wrote: > > Mikko, > > i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good this tank fits or if it is > stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only about 15 Liters. Mikko and all, According to the advertisement for the tanks, the IMS is not as large as the Acerbis. The Acerbis is 4.25 U.S. gallons. I also feel that it is stronger than the IMS, but don't know if that is an issue. Wayne -- Wayne Marsulá, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: rherrscher@Opto22.com Subject: RE: (dr) Re:plastic tanks Date: 24 Feb 2000 14:40:28 -0800 Hi Andy, That was a good thought. I have wondered why the tank manufacurers do not put a hose barb on both sides of the tank. Then after mounting the tank on the bike, you could connect a piece of fuel line between the two hose barbs, which would act as an equalizer between the sides of the tank, and allow you to use all of the fuel in the tank. Best Regards, Roger Herrscher -----Original Message----- Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2000 2:04 PM << File: header.txt >> >> Eighteen liters is 4.75 U.S. gallons, the Acerbis tank in 4.25 U.S. Be sure to find out much of the fuel is useable without having to lay the bike down on it's side to get to the fuel that wont cross over. -- Best Regards & Happy Trails Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking Y2KLR650 @ 2.9K sMiles 97 R11RA (Amiga) @ 11.6K Miles So Many Roads, So Little Time http://members.deltech.net/aches/ - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Wayne Marsula' Subject: Re: (dr) Re:plastic tanks Date: 24 Feb 2000 17:16:02 -0800 > Hi Andy, > > That was a good thought. I have wondered why the tank manufacurers do > not put a hose barb on both sides of the tank. Then after mounting the > tank on the bike, you could connect a piece of fuel line between the two > hose barbs, which would act as an equalizer between the sides of the > tank, and allow you to use all of the fuel in the tank. > > Best Regards, > > Roger Herrscher > Guys, The Acerbis tank has an outlet, with petcock, on both sides of the tank. Wayne *********************************************** Wayne Marsula', Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165, Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club Honda SOHC4 #539 National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350 Opinion Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:27:28 -0000 Thanks for the comments on my post yesterday. It's re-assuring to find someone experiencing even worse brake wear than me, Ludwig! In answer to another question - I have only removed the air-box snorkel = so far. Lack of time has prevented me cutting the box properly, however, I would like to know if you end up with an annoying intake drone if you = do this ? At the moment my DR is very quiet at gentle speeds but has a = nice bark when you wind the throttle open. Nice. The switch on the carb is an interesting one. I haven't touched it yet = but sounds like you can just disconnect it. I have noticed a drastic power = loss on the odd occasion on the road when I've cracked the throttle open - hopefully that is what's causing it - I'll try it this weekend ! The Chen Shin tire is about =A330 UK compared to about =A350 for an = MT21. The MT21 might last fractionally longer, but not much. And it is definitely = not an enduro tire, so it is not to everyone's taste, but will keep going = in very deep mud. I'll dig out the UK Trail-Riding email and send on later.... Steve=20 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mikko vimpari Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:59:37 +0200 Hi guys Thanks, but i wasn't talking about IMS tank I made a phonecall to guy who told me(ex-DR rider) He knows Ims tank, he claimed that G=F6tz tank was bigger, white and shaped like in the old Paris-Dakar bikes,little bit like a huge plum (whatever that means) The problem is, he was looking '97 G=F6tz catalog, so who knows, are they still selling that tank. I own also an old Acerbis tank and happy with it,but i'm always curious about the things, which could be maybe even better for DR. We will have to wait till Ludwig gets the catalog. Regards Mikko Vimpari '97 350SE ----- Original Message ----- =46rom: Wayne Marsula' Cc: ; mikko vimpari Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 12:16 AM Ludwig Geromiller wrote: > > Mikko, > > i think you are referring to the IMS tank. I don't know, how good t= his tank fits or if it is > stable if you crash. My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has onl= y about 15 Liters. Mikko and all, According to the advertisement for the tanks, the IMS is not as large as the Acerbis. The Acerbis is 4.25 U.S. gallons. I also feel that it= is stronger than the IMS, but don't know if that is an issue. Wayne -- Wayne Marsul=E1, Escondido, CA "Casual Collector of Classic Hondas" "from 50 to 550cc" (about 20) BMW R100GSPD (La Tortuga Coja) BMW R75/5 "Toaster Tank" Suzuki DR350SE Honda SOHC4 #539 Yamaha YSR50 Yamaha TW200 (for sale) Member: BMW Motorcycle Owners of America Internet BMW Riders Airheads Beemer Club #165 Baja Airmarshal (?) Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Club National Rifle Association http://www.mikthebik.com/ (San Diego County Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Group) - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) Trail Riding in the UK Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:57:22 -0000 Here's a copy of an email I did for another list - it is of course only based on my own experiences and opinions...(!) In England and Wales (Scotland has its own situation that I dont know muc= h about) there is a network of legal rights of way as follows: Footpaths - walkers only Bridleways - Walkers, horses, cyclists (but not a horse and cart!) RUPPS (Roads Used as Public Paths) - usually all, including vehicles, car= ts etc. Byways - open to all traffic. All RUPPS are currently being reviewed to re-classify to Bridleways or Byways. County Roads - these are a little secret to us Trail Riders, they are basically ancient roads that have not been surfaced with Tarmac. Most loc= al authorities allow full vehicular rights on these. A lot of these routes go back many hundreds of years and so have a clear history of vehicle usage (horse and cart) that cannot be argued with. We have an excellent map making company called Ordinance Survey who produ= ce maps at 1;50000 or even 1;25000 for every square inch of the UK in 25 mil= e x 25 mile chunks. All the rights of way are clearly marked up and are generally very accurate.=20 The organisation I am in, the Trail Riders Fellowship (TRF) act very clos= ely and pro-actively with the local authorities to maintain all our rights of way and fight back very firmly at any proposals to close tracks, or green lanes as they are known. We also have representatives who will take thing= s right up to Government level, if required. The TRF will also offer legal support to any member being prosecuted by a land owner for trespassing, especially if using a legal right of way anyway! The current UK membershi= p is a couple of thousand, split into about 40 local groups.=20 Each local group has regular social events and official runs where someon= e volunteers to lead and navigate. These usually last most of the day (on a Sunday) but can be a lot of fun as long as there are no major breakdowns.= If the group is large (up to 12) it can be slow going though. I usually go o= ut on my own because no-one else can get up early enough! (I like to spend lunchtime onwards with my family.) And there is a nice little website - http://www.trf.org.uk/ with some pi= cs. The website has some suggested rules which look a bit serious- in reality= we ride fast and hard, but with respect for the countryside and other users. There is a tremendous variety of terrain to ride on. Where I live I can g= o north/ north west for some rolling green hills and wooded areas, mainly c= lay and flint. To the West I have the open Salisbury Plain, nothing too steep= , but very scenic and lots of Army activity to avoid! To the East there is = the South Downs, a long ridge with some nice steep climbs off it, mainly chal= k which is VERY slippery when wet. Nice views down to the coast and Isle of Wight. To the north east the ground is sandy which results in different vegetation, but, being Britain still ends up muddy in winter. There is al= so a few rocky tracks to practice Trials skills including the famous Alton stream - a two mile long ride along a sunken rock stream. Very wet and challenging ! Also another nationally famous hill - Butser Hill. This is chalk, VERY steep climb about 5 foot wide between two fences. Totally impossible in winter, very difficult in summer. Most riders wont even attempt it. Going down is very scary but has to be done - but only on a little two-stroke in the middle of a heat wave! Oh, and to the south is t= he coast, BUT a trip on the ferry gives a day's ride round the Isle of Wight. Pretty hilly too. Its very unusual to go out and come home with a clean bike, even in summe= r. Which is a real pain. Wheel bearings brakes and chains suffer greatly. A typical ride for me would involve a road trip of 10-40 mins to my startin= g point. Depending on the area you could have a couple of hours completely = off road or go on all day with a mixture of road and track. I usually average 80-140 miles in a four or five hour session, with a few stops. Its diffic= ult to say how much road/track there is on average, perhaps 1/3 road, 2/3 tra= ck on a typical ride. Many tracks are used by farm vehicles or 4x4s so ruts = are common. Some have been designated motorcycle only (to reduce erosion) whi= ch is great! Twisty single track through woods is my favorite. Most rides wi= ll incorporate deep muddy ruts and puddles, leafy woods, open grassy tracks, fast smooth gravel, a bit of rocky stuff, a bit of sand, plenty of ups an= d downs, with a few challenging climbs. And if I take the trailer to Wales there are some decent mountains to play around on. Mean loose rock climbs= , bogs, sheep, rain etc.=20 The DR350 is probably the most common bike. The two stroke Honda CRM250 i= s popular but not by anyone following it. The Yamaha TT250, XT225 Serrow, Honda XLR250 are the favorites for the mature/lady/shorter rider. The Yam= s and Hondas are only available as grey imports from Japan, normally secondhand and always at over inflated prices. Its amazing that the offic= ial dealers dont catch on - a lot of people buying the small fourstrokes simp= ly want a cheap, sturdy trail bike for commuting on, so the market is definitely there. A few trail riders use the enduro XR250/400 (which are available new), but most want turn signals and electric start. I dont kno= w of anyone in my group with a 600+.=20 A new DR350 electric start is about =A33500, a few hundred less for the e= nduro model. Imported secondhand XLR/TTR 250's can cost as much as =A32500 for = a FIVE year old model. Hence I bought a new KMX125 for =A32000. The newish = trail Husky 610 is probably one of the few big trail bikes that would be useabl= e in winter (my father has one). But at =A35000 for Italian build quality, = not for me. The British company CCM do a very tasty 600 electric start with s= ome serious componentry around an air cooled Rotax engine. Very nice, but aga= in =A35000 for non-Jap quality. Other than that we have XT600, KLR650, Honda NX650, and apart from the DR, nothing smaller officially imported, apart from 125's. Any questions ?? ! Steve=20 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) Tires Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:13:53 -0000 I should clarify and correct my spelling - I use the Cheng Shin C858 on the rear. Don't use the front of this model off-road - it will be useless ! And don't use anything like these tires if you like a motorcross style tread. Have you seen this web-site ? - lots of pictures and info. http://www.accwhse.com/ Steve - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (dr) Care package DR650 Date: 25 Feb 2000 07:00:17 -0700 I just received a gorgeous "care" package from Tim Bernard www.happy-trail.com . A set of regular racks (for when I want to use my Ortlieb Dry Bags), a set of the generation II Northwest racks (for cooler and GIVI luggage), my powdercoated Top-of-the-Line Rack (used with Ortlieb dry duffel) pre-fitted to the freshly powdercoated rear luggage rack, highway pegs, GIVI adapter pre-fitted for the luggage rack, K & N filter, Somsenite Cooler Kits, Mike Walburn at DualStar sent my a light guard and two KLR windshields (they're on sale) so that I can try them on the stock DR fairing. I'm still waiting on my forks and shock from Precision Concepts. I'm going to be heading to the shop just as soon as this issue of Dual Sport News is "put to bed". Kurt Simpson Editor Dual Sport News - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds Date: 25 Feb 2000 08:39:43 -0600 I am going to attempt to install Acerbis handgaurds this weekend. Reading though the directions it mentions a 14mm or 18mm diameter for the handlebars, are the stock bars 14 or 18mm? Thanks Bryan '99 DR350 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jmloco@aol.com Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds Date: 25 Feb 2000 09:48:06 EST Bryan, I don't know which size the stock bars are but on my 93 DRS the stock bars were filled so that I had to get new bars in order to put the handguards on. I don't know if that is the case with the newer bars. I believe that the box came with hardware to fit either size bar and I used what fit with the new bars. John - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds Date: 25 Feb 2000 10:13:04 -0600 Neither, the bars are 7/8". They are probably talking about the inside diameter. The handguards come with 2 sets of inserts to fit in the end of the bars. If you are using regular steel bars (thinner wall), then you will use the bigger inserts (probably 18mm), if you have aluminium bars, the wall is much thicker, you will use the smaller inserts (the 14mm). Hope this helps. JB '98 DR650SE (with Acerbis handguards) >>> Bryan Ply 02/25/00 08:39AM >>> I am going to attempt to install Acerbis handgaurds this weekend. Reading though the directions it mentions a 14mm or 18mm diameter for the handlebars, are the stock bars 14 or 18mm? Thanks Bryan '99 DR350 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Wesley Woolfall" Subject: (dr) I'm back + beeter braking + TRF Date: 25 Feb 2000 15:24:13 -0000 Hi, I'm back after getting the bike back + the engineers report I bent the frame back myself, and put it back on the road. :) (very). Now i'm just waiting for the cheque from the insurance company. + is any one after better braking, a company called 'Talon Engineering' dose a Super Moto size front disc 320mm dia. £130.00 each plus vat Super Moto caliper 4 piston (including bracket) £150.00 plus vat It is steep but I bet it is worth it. DO U think joining the TRF is worth it?, I do very little off-road riding, as I havn't found any where good yet + I am running AVON Gripsters a good on road tyre (nee down stuff). coments. Wez DR350SP 96 - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jonathan Moon Subject: (dr) Thanks for the used price help... Date: 25 Feb 2000 08:13:21 -0800 (PST) First of all, thank you all who helped me with the used price guide for the DR350S. Turns out it's a 91 model, tach doesn't work, right rear turn signal is hanging by its wires (and doesn't work), muffler (stock) has a fair amount of rust, and when I opened the gas tank there was a little rust on one side of the neck of the tank. The guy does have all the records of maintenance on the bike, even though he's the third owner. He SAID he paid 2200 for it like last year some time. He wants 1900. I told him I'd think about what I could offer him. He doesn't seem over anxious to sell, and if the bike is gonna take a lot of work to fix, I'm not that anxious to buy (certainly not at that price!) I figured on offering about 1300 at the most (depending on what you guys and my uncle (more experience than I by far) say). Thanks for all your help, Jon ===== Jonathan L. Moon Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology University of Georgia Voice (706)-542-1713 Fax (706)-542-3719 email: jlmoon@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "David Blacklock" Subject: (dr) hand guards Date: 25 Feb 2000 10:01:28 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You don't need to buy new bars to put the guards on... just cut about = 1/4" (just past the welds that are inside the ends of the bars) off the = bars with your saws all or hack saw but that will take awhile because = you are cutting through 3/4" steel bar. ------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You don't need to buy new bars to put = the guards=20 on... just cut about 1/4" (just past the welds that are inside the ends = of the=20 bars) off the bars with your saws all or hack saw but that will take = awhile=20 because you are cutting through 3/4" steel = bar.
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BF7F77.48A56D60-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Minh Lang Subject: Re: (dr) hand guards Date: 25 Feb 2000 11:34:52 -0800 (PST) NO need to cut if you don't want to. I drilled a hole in the bar weight that was welded inside the handle bar then used a self tapping bolt to install the Acerbis end. = Minh = --- David Blacklock wrote: > You don't need to buy new bars to put the guards on... just cut about 1/4" (just > past the welds that are inside the ends of the bars) off the bars with your saws > all or hack saw but that will take awhile because you are cutting through 3/4" > steel bar. > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Lara" Subject: RE: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds Date: 25 Feb 2000 12:03:10 -0800 The bar ends on my '95 DR350SE were also filled. Rather than replacing the bars, I had a machine shop drill and tap holes in the ends of bars to receive the mounting screws. It turned out great. By the way, do you have the original style handguards or the new ones with the aluminum bars mounted inside. The original style ones were a bear to install. The new style bars have different mounting hardware. I was able to install them quickly on my '91 CR250. --Greg -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Jmloco@aol.com Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 6:48 AM Bryan, I don't know which size the stock bars are but on my 93 DRS the stock bars were filled so that I had to get new bars in order to put the handguards on. I don't know if that is the case with the newer bars. I believe that the box came with hardware to fit either size bar and I used what fit with the new bars. John - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bryan Ply Subject: Re: (dr) Installing Acerbis Handgaurds Date: 25 Feb 2000 14:16:47 -0600 Greg, I have the ones with the alum. inside them, I figured that it offered more protection, I guess that I'll need a little more than 10 min to complete the project. lol Bryan - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Colin Parkes" Subject: Re: (dr) I'm back + beeter braking + TRF Date: 26 Feb 2000 09:49:19 +0300 Hi Wez, where are you mate ??? I have ridden off road in the Lakes, you can ride all day and hardly ever hit a road.... Up rivers, through muddy swamp, it's a laugh.... But you need enduro/mx tyres or forget about it.... later Col. Liverpool '92 DR350S -----Original Message----- >Hi, I'm back after getting the bike back + the engineers report I bent the >frame back myself, and put it back on the road. :) (very). >Now i'm just waiting for the cheque from the insurance company. >+ is any one after better braking, a company called 'Talon Engineering' dose >a Super Moto size front disc 320mm dia. £130.00 each plus vat >Super Moto caliper 4 piston (including bracket) £150.00 plus vat >It is steep but I bet it is worth it. >DO U think joining the TRF is worth it?, I do very little off-road riding, >as I havn't found any where good yet + I am running AVON Gripsters a good on >road tyre (nee down stuff). coments. > >Wez >DR350SP 96 > > > >- > to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" > with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. > For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send > "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. > - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=FCrgen?= Seeger Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100 I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with big dirty-yellow places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel? JS Ludwig Geromiller schrieb: > My Acerbis is ok and quite robust, but has only about 15 Liters. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "jnugent" <2jnugent@prodigy.net> Subject: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb Date: 27 Feb 2000 02:22:29 -0500 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I guess I should start by saying my bike is a 97 350 SE with a Mikuni = flat slide carb. I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 with the quite core, I have all 12 = disks on the pipe and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the top. I got a carb kit from Thumper = Racing, it has the JX needle and spring and a 135 main jet, they did not = recommend a change to the pilot jet. They said to put the clip in the 3rd grove from = the top on the needle. The questions that I have are, do you need to use the thick white = plastic washer from the old needle on the new one? If not then I have the wrong needle = because the new needle is longer than the stock one and will not drop down the = hole far=20 enough for the clip to bottom out on the slide. In the instructions I got from Thumper(they are rather vague and say = nothing about the needle at all) it says " after starting the engine and = warming it up, adjust the fuel screw in the front bottom of the carb for best idle" I = know where this screw should be but on my carb there is a brass plug with a very = small hole were the screw should be. Next I can not get the screws on the float bowl the break loose, any = tricks for this one? And finally can you improve the flow of the air box by removing the = screen from the snorkel. ( I know all about the Vortex box I just cant afford it = right now) I am in the middle of this and would like to get it done before the = weather gets cold again, here in Mich. we don't get to many weekends in the 50s and = 60s in February.( no heat in the garage) Thanks in advance for the help. Jim Nugent Lansing Mich. ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I guess I should start by saying my = bike is a 97=20 350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 = with the quite=20 core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the = top. I got a=20 carb kit from Thumper Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a = 135 main jet,=20 they did not recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to = put the clip=20 in the 3rd grove from the top on
the needle.
    The questions = that I have=20 are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If = not then I=20 have the wrong needle because
the new needle is longer than the stock = one and=20 will not drop down the hole far
enough for the clip to bottom out on = the=20 slide.
    In the instructions = I got from=20 Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) = it says "=20 after starting the engine and warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front = bottom of the=20 carb for best idle" I know where
this screw should be but on my carb = there is a=20 brass plug with a very small hole
were the screw should be.
    Next I can not get = the screws on=20 the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for
this one?
    And finally can you = improve the=20 flow of the air box by removing the screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the = Vortex box I=20 just cant afford it right now)
   I am in the middle of = this and=20 would like to get it done before the weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get = to many=20 weekends in the 50s and 60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) = Thanks in=20 advance for the help.
 
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =           =20 Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BF80C9.7F300AE0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Mitja Jeric" Subject: Re: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb Date: 27 Feb 2000 16:26:15 +0100 If you want to get access to the fuel screw just drill it out (Be careful not to go too deep). Visit my page at www.geocities.com/dr350page - where you can find some info about the DR350 carburetor that might help you. Mitja - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Wesley Woolfall" Subject: (dr) TRF Date: 27 Feb 2000 16:04:41 -0000 hi I'm in South Yorkshire, Rotherham. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb Date: 27 Feb 2000 08:19:13 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF80FB.54FA4E20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Jim, first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below the clip which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen your midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good sharp no.1 phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen times when it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get inside you change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw and set it one and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and adjust from there when the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact me with any further questions. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of jnugent Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 11:22 PM I guess I should start by saying my bike is a 97 350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb. I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 with the quite core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the top. I got a carb kit from Thumper Racing, it has the JX needle and spring and a 135 main jet, they did not recommend a change to the pilot jet. They said to put the clip in the 3rd grove from the top on the needle. The questions that I have are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer from the old needle on the new one? If not then I have the wrong needle because the new needle is longer than the stock one and will not drop down the hole far enough for the clip to bottom out on the slide. In the instructions I got from Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) it says " after starting the engine and warming it up, adjust the fuel screw in the front bottom of the carb for best idle" I know where this screw should be but on my carb there is a brass plug with a very small hole were the screw should be. Next I can not get the screws on the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for this one? And finally can you improve the flow of the air box by removing the screen from the snorkel. ( I know all about the Vortex box I just cant afford it right now) I am in the middle of this and would like to get it done before the weather gets cold again, here in Mich. we don't get to many weekends in the 50s and 60s in February.( no heat in the garage) Thanks in advance for the help. Jim Nugent Lansing Mich. ------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF80FB.54FA4E20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi=20 Jim,  first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below = the clip=20 which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen = your  midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good = sharp no.1=20 phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen = times when=20 it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get = inside you=20 change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw and set = it one=20 and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and adjust from = there when=20 the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact me with any further=20 questions.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
 
-----Original=20 Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20 [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of = jnugent
Sent:=20 Saturday, February 26, 2000 11:22 PM
To: d = r
Subject: (dr)=20 DR350se Help with my carb

I guess I should start by saying my = bike is a 97=20 350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 = with the quite=20 core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the = top. I got a=20 carb kit from Thumper Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a = 135 main jet,=20 they did not recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to = put the clip=20 in the 3rd grove from the top on
the needle.
    The questions = that I have=20 are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If = not then I=20 have the wrong needle because
the new needle is longer than the stock = one and=20 will not drop down the hole far
enough for the clip to bottom out on = the=20 slide.
    In the instructions = I got from=20 Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) = it says "=20 after starting the engine and warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front = bottom of the=20 carb for best idle" I know where
this screw should be but on my carb = there is a=20 brass plug with a very small hole
were the screw should be.
    Next I can not get = the screws on=20 the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for
this one?
    And finally can you = improve the=20 flow of the air box by removing the screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the = Vortex box I=20 just cant afford it right now)
   I am in the middle of = this and=20 would like to get it done before the weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get = to many=20 weekends in the 50s and 60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) = Thanks in=20 advance for the help.
 
          &nbs= p;            = ;            =           =20 Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
------=_NextPart_000_0003_01BF80FB.54FA4E20-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Edward Marlowe" Subject: (dr) Fw: DR 350 Date: 27 Feb 2000 18:59:27 -0000 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF8154.C516B960 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable ----- Original Message -----=20 Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ 400E!! FOR SALE 97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov 98') Under manufactures warranty until 11, 2000 1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use only. CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis rally pro handguards = and frame protectors. Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with plenty of power. =A32300 o.n.o Located West Yorkshire emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF8154.C516B960 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
 
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Edward=20 Marlowe
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: DR 350

ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ = 400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov = 98')
Under manufactures warranty until 11, = 2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use = only.
CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis = rally pro=20 handguards and frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with = plenty of=20 power.
=A32300 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire
 
emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BF8154.C516B960-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Copsey, Stephen J (Steve)" Subject: (dr) Sunday's Ride Date: 28 Feb 2000 15:44:49 -0000 Had a great ride on Sunday - the rain held off and the mud had dried slightly to a nice soft state, with good grip. Well, it WAS good for the first few hours until I noticed the rear tire was whining more on the tarmac - puncture time ! The hole was too big for sealant so tipped the bike on its side against a bank and popped the wheel out. Not fun at all, especially as everything was covered in mud. Even worse was the fact that my first attempt at removing the axle I had the bike sprocket side up to get at the nut, and then of course, you cant push the axle out so I had to turn the bike round again ! I then had to take the tire COMPLETELY off the rim to get out a large thorn. I enjoyed that as well - not. The wheel went back in reasonably easily on the second attempt (the axle spacers always fall out the bearing seals). And with about 200 pumps from my useless bicycle pump, it was done. Took about 3/4 hr, but more importantly I have the confidence (but no desire...) to do it again. I've had to do this once before on my KMX125, but that bike is so much lighter that I just rode it onto a large fallen tree and balanced it on the bash plate. The DR is too heavy for me to do that - it would stay stuck on the log! You can get a lightweight alu tube that, in conjunction with the sidestand, makes a kind of centre stand so you can drop the wheels out with the bike upright - anyone familiar with this device ? Steve - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ludwig Geromiller" Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 28 Feb 2000 20:47:50 +0000 (:) J=FCrgen, the yellow stuff is not uncommon. You can try to wipe it away with e.g. = brakecleaner, but you won't get a bright, newworthy white tank :-) Ludwig On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100, J=FCrgen Seeger wrote: > >I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with bi= g >dirty-yellow >places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jan Bradley" Subject: Re: (dr) 350 aftermarket gas tank Date: 28 Feb 2000 16:15:39 -0600 A couple of years ago, I bought a NEW Acerbis tank for my DR350. When I received it, it too had some yellowing. And it was new! JB >>> "Ludwig Geromiller" 02/28/00 02:47PM >>> Jurgen, the yellow stuff is not uncommon. You can try to wipe it away with e.g. brakecleaner, but you won't get a bright, newworthy white tank :-) Ludwig On Sat, 26 Feb 2000 18:43:07 +0100, Jurgen Seeger wrote: > >I've just tried to buy an used Acerbis tank, but it was covered with big >dirty-yellow >places. Is this usual? What may be the reason - the sun or fuel? - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jonathan Moon Subject: (dr) FirstGear Kilimanjaro Jacket Date: 28 Feb 2000 13:50:52 -0800 (PST) Greetings again listers. I have not yet purchased a bike, but am looking around for jackets (cart before horse, I know). I realize that this question may be more appropriate to the KLR list, but does anyone know of a mail order discounter for the FirstGear Kilimanjaro jackets? I found one (RidinGear.com) that had em for $295 and was wondering if they were cheaper anywhere else. Thanks for the input. Jon ===== Jonathan L. Moon Department of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology University of Georgia Voice (706)-542-1713 Fax (706)-542-3719 email: jlmoon@yahoo.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: RE: (dr) Archives Date: 28 Feb 2000 17:04:09 -0700 > > Hi - could someone please help me with retrieving the archives ? > > I have got the index but the get command doesn't work as it is not obvious > which filenames to use. > Here's the first few lines.... > > total 8 > drwxrwxr-x 2 domo domo 4096 Feb 22 19:20 archive > > ./archive: > total 3096 > -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 254363 Jan 31 11:56 dr.200001 > -rw-r--r-- 1 domo domo 465351 Feb 23 08:52 dr.200002 > > Thanks ! > here are the serachable archives Steve http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=dr350 Kurt Simpson - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Isaac Vanier" Subject: (dr) carb mods??? Date: 28 Feb 2000 19:42:49 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF8223.FED4FA20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I have a '97 DR350SE This weekend, I took it out and started learning to pull wheelies for = the first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much more comfortable = than I expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a bit green = about trying it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me, but = the more the better of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm = not sure of the altitude around here. Not high of course. I hear that = the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd like to make some changes = and give the bike some more guts. What are the various mods I can do to = the carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run for this area of = the country? =20 Thanks a ton for your help. ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF8223.FED4FA20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I have a '97 DR350SE
 
This weekend, I took it out and started learning to = pull=20 wheelies for the first time.  What fun!  It's much easier, and = much=20 more comfortable than I expected.  I'm not really a = "gutsy" guy,=20 so I was a bit green about trying it : )  Anyway, the power on my = 97 seems=20 good to me, but the more the better of course : )  I live in = Central=20 Wisconsin, but I'm not sure of the altitude around here.  Not high = of=20 course.  I hear that the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd = like to=20 make some changes and give the bike some more guts.  What are the = various=20 mods I can do to the carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run = for this=20 area of the country? 
 
Thanks a ton for your help.
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BF8223.FED4FA20-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) carb mods??? Date: 28 Feb 2000 17:50:34 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF8214.4FF55C20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit HI Isaac, First I would say that with a restrictive airbox I would make no carb adjustments without either modifing the stock airbox, by cutting the top out like a 3x4 opening or the Vortex airbox then balance the extra air with richer jetting. The stock airbox mod and jetting will give you a modest improvement and the Vortex will give you significantly more but also cost more. If you decide what choice that you wish to do let me know and I can guide you as to what jetting modifications to use. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Isaac Vanier Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:43 PM I have a '97 DR350SE This weekend, I took it out and started learning to pull wheelies for the first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much more comfortable than I expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a bit green about trying it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me, but the more the better of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm not sure of the altitude around here. Not high of course. I hear that the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd like to make some changes and give the bike some more guts. What are the various mods I can do to the carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run for this area of the country? Thanks a ton for your help. ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF8214.4FF55C20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
HI=20 Isaac,  First I would say that with a restrictive airbox I would = make no=20 carb adjustments without either modifing the stock airbox, by cutting = the top=20 out like a  3x4 opening or the Vortex airbox then balance the extra = air=20 with richer jetting.  The stock airbox mod and jetting will give = you a=20 modest improvement and the Vortex will give you significantly more but = also cost=20 more. If you decide what choice that you wish to do let me know and I = can guide=20 you as to what jetting modifications to use.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

 
-----Original Message-----
From: = owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20 [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Isaac=20 Vanier
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 7:43 PM
To:=20 dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr) carb = mods???

I have a '97 DR350SE
 
This weekend, I took it out and started learning to = pull=20 wheelies for the first time.  What fun!  It's much easier, and = much=20 more comfortable than I expected.  I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so = I was a=20 bit green about trying it : )  Anyway, the power on my 97 seems = good to me,=20 but the more the better of course : )  I live in Central Wisconsin, = but I'm=20 not sure of the altitude around here.  Not high of course.  I = hear=20 that the DR is pretty lean on the jetting, so I'd like to make some = changes and=20 give the bike some more guts.  What are the various mods I can do = to the=20 carb alone, like what main, and pilot should I run for this area of the=20 country? 
 
Thanks a ton for your help.
 
 
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BF8214.4FF55C20-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: john miller Subject: RE: (dr) carb mods??? Date: 28 Feb 2000 19:00:07 -0800 (PST) If you can swing the money go for the Vortex airbox.You will pull wheelies on accident!! John in NY > > I have a '97 DR350SE > > This weekend, I took it out and started learning to > pull wheelies for the > first time. What fun! It's much easier, and much > more comfortable than I > expected. I'm not really a "gutsy" guy, so I was a > bit green about trying > it : ) Anyway, the power on my 97 seems good to me, > but the more the better > of course : ) I live in Central Wisconsin, but I'm > not sure of the altitude > around here. Not high of course. I hear that the > DR is pretty lean on the > jetting, so I'd like to make some changes and give > the bike some more guts. > What are the various mods I can do to the carb > alone, like what main, and > pilot should I run for this area of the country? > > Thanks a ton for your help. > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Isaac Vanier" Subject: (dr) major bogging problem after a long ride Date: 28 Feb 2000 22:10:52 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF8238.AD2DC2A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I need comments on the following problem I'm having with my '97 DR350 - = all stock. 5.5k miles. First, the problem: I'll be starting out from a stop, or reving the = engine with the clutch pulled in while coasting, and the engine will bog = very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once it gets passed this = spot, it does fine. It happens very sporatically. =20 Now I've experienced this on 2 seperate rides so far. Both where about = 4 hours of riding. One in cold weather, where I can't imagine the = engine was overheating at all, and the other in moderate temperatures - = 80 degrees. This last time, I spent most of the time riding at about = 40mph average. But it actually happened while playing around a small = jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes. I'll make a sharp slow = turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really = badly over the first bit of RPM. I don't think it's so bad that I could = get it to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" if = I crank it, but it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when = the bike doesn't go anywhere : ) Basically, I sort of tend to think that this is simply happening because = I'm riding for quite a while without openening the bike up, and blowing = the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding etc. I can't imagine = that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is warm for a = long long time before it has happened. =20 This is really a small problem, but I figured I'd ask, just to make = sure. ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF8238.AD2DC2A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I need comments on the following = problem I'm=20 having with my '97 DR350 - all stock.  5.5k miles.
 
First, the problem:  I'll be = starting out=20 from a stop, or reving the engine with the clutch pulled in while = coasting, and=20 the engine will bog very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM.  Once = it gets=20 passed this spot, it does fine.  It happens very = sporatically. =20
 
Now I've experienced this on 2 = seperate rides so=20 far.  Both where about 4 hours of riding.  One in cold = weather, where=20 I can't imagine the engine was overheating at all, and the other in = moderate=20 temperatures - 80 degrees.  This last time, I spent most of the = time riding=20 at about 40mph average.  But it actually happened while playing = around a=20 small jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes.  I'll make a = sharp slow=20 turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really = badly=20 over the first bit of RPM.  I don't think it's so bad that I could = get it=20 to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" = if I=20 crank it, but it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when the = bike=20 doesn't go anywhere : )
 
Basically, I sort of tend to think = that this is=20 simply happening because I'm riding for quite a while without openening = the bike=20 up, and blowing the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding = etc.  I=20 can't imagine that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is = warm=20 for a long long time before it has happened. 
 
This is really a small problem, but = I figured=20 I'd ask, just to make sure.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BF8238.AD2DC2A0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jesse Kientz www.kientech.com" Subject: RE: (dr) major bogging problem after a long ride Date: 29 Feb 2000 09:01:37 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Hi Isaac you might check your vent hoses from the fuel tank that may have fuel trapped in them impeding the fuel flow out of the fuel tank especially if it happens after you have ridden a while a quick test would be to run it until it starts to act up then open the fuel tank cap and see if this corrects the problem . The vent lines should all hang pretty much straight down and not have any loops in them that would trap fuel. Regards, Jesse Kientz http://www.kientech.com/ -----Original Message----- Behalf Of Isaac Vanier Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:11 PM I need comments on the following problem I'm having with my '97 DR350 - all stock. 5.5k miles. First, the problem: I'll be starting out from a stop, or reving the engine with the clutch pulled in while coasting, and the engine will bog very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM. Once it gets passed this spot, it does fine. It happens very sporatically. Now I've experienced this on 2 seperate rides so far. Both where about 4 hours of riding. One in cold weather, where I can't imagine the engine was overheating at all, and the other in moderate temperatures - 80 degrees. This last time, I spent most of the time riding at about 40mph average. But it actually happened while playing around a small jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes. I'll make a sharp slow turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really badly over the first bit of RPM. I don't think it's so bad that I could get it to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" if I crank it, but it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when the bike doesn't go anywhere : ) Basically, I sort of tend to think that this is simply happening because I'm riding for quite a while without openening the bike up, and blowing the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding etc. I can't imagine that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is warm for a long long time before it has happened. This is really a small problem, but I figured I'd ask, just to make sure. ------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi=20 Isaac you might check your vent hoses from the fuel tank =20 that  may have   fuel  trapped in them impeding = the=20 fuel flow out of the fuel tank especially if it happens after you have = ridden a=20 while a quick test would be to run it until it starts to act up then = open the=20 fuel tank cap and see if this corrects the problem .  The vent = lines should=20 all hang pretty much straight down and not have any loops in them that = would=20 trap fuel.

Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/

 
-----Original Message-----
From: = owner-dr@lists.xmission.com=20 [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Isaac=20 Vanier
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 10:11 PM
To:=20 dr@lists.xmission.com
Subject: (dr) major bogging problem = after a long=20 ride

I need comments on the following = problem I'm=20 having with my '97 DR350 - all stock.  5.5k miles.
 
First, the problem:  I'll be = starting out=20 from a stop, or reving the engine with the clutch pulled in while = coasting, and=20 the engine will bog very very badly between about 2 - 4k RPM.  Once = it gets=20 passed this spot, it does fine.  It happens very = sporatically. =20
 
Now I've experienced this on 2 = seperate rides so=20 far.  Both where about 4 hours of riding.  One in cold = weather, where=20 I can't imagine the engine was overheating at all, and the other in = moderate=20 temperatures - 80 degrees.  This last time, I spent most of the = time riding=20 at about 40mph average.  But it actually happened while playing = around a=20 small jump in only 1st gear for about 40 minutes.  I'll make a = sharp slow=20 turn, go to give it some gas, or start from a stop, and it'll bog really = badly=20 over the first bit of RPM.  I don't think it's so bad that I could = get it=20 to stall even if I tried, because it makes it over the "hump" if I crank = it, but=20 it sounds really bad, and is very very noticeable when the bike doesn't = go=20 anywhere : )
 
Basically, I sort of tend to think = that this is=20 simply happening because I'm riding for quite a while without openening = the bike=20 up, and blowing the carbon out, ie, easy, slow speed trail riding = etc.  I=20 can't imagine that it's a carb problem or anything because the engine is = warm=20 for a long long time before it has happened. 
 
This is really a small problem, but = I figured=20 I'd ask, just to make sure.
------=_NextPart_000_0002_01BF8293.961316A0-- - to unsubscribe to dr, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.