Subject: RE: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb
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Hi Jim, first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below the clip
which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen
your midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good sharp no.1
phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen times
when it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get
inside you change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw
and set it one and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and
adjust from there when the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact
me with any further questions.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-dr@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-dr@lists.xmission.com]On
Behalf Of jnugent
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2000 11:22 PM
To: d r
Subject: (dr) DR350se Help with my carb
I guess I should start by saying my bike is a 97 350 SE with a Mikuni flat
slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 with the quite core, I have all 12 disks
on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the top. I got a carb kit from Thumper
Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a 135 main jet, they did not recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to put the clip in the 3rd grove from the
top on
the needle.
The questions that I have are, do you need to use the thick white
plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If not then I have the wrong needle
because
the new needle is longer than the stock one and will not drop down the hole
far
enough for the clip to bottom out on the slide.
In the instructions I got from Thumper(they are rather vague and say
nothing about the needle at all) it says " after starting the engine and
warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front bottom of the carb for best idle" I know
where
this screw should be but on my carb there is a brass plug with a very small
hole
were the screw should be.
Next I can not get the screws on the float bowl the break loose, any
tricks for
this one?
And finally can you improve the flow of the air box by removing the
screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the Vortex box I just cant afford it right
now)
I am in the middle of this and would like to get it done before the
weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get to many weekends in the 50s and 60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) Thanks in advance for the help.
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
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Hi=20
Jim, first answer yes to reusing the white plastic washer below =
the clip=20
which should be in the fourth groove down on the needle.This will richen =
your midrange, next remove the backfire screen. You need a good =
sharp no.1=20
phillips to remove the screws from the bowl of the carb I have seen =
times when=20
it was necessary to use an impact gently to loosen them. Once you get =
inside you=20
change the main to 137.5 . Remove the plug from the fuel screw and set =
it one=20
and a half turns out from the bottomed out position and adjust from =
there when=20
the engine is fully warmed up. Feel free to contact me with any further=20
questions.
Regards,
Jesse Kientz
http://www.kientech.com/
I guess I should start by saying my =
bike is a 97=20
350 SE with a Mikuni flat slide carb.
I just installed a Supertrapp ISD 2 =
with the quite=20
core, I have all 12 disks on the pipe
and the air box has a 3x4 hole in the =
top. I got a=20
carb kit from Thumper Racing,
it has the JX needle and spring and a =
135 main jet,=20
they did not recommend a
change to the pilot jet. They said to =
put the clip=20
in the 3rd grove from the top on
the needle.
The questions =
that I have=20
are, do you need to use the thick white plastic washer
from the old needle on the new one? If =
not then I=20
have the wrong needle because
the new needle is longer than the stock =
one and=20
will not drop down the hole far
enough for the clip to bottom out on =
the=20
slide.
In the instructions =
I got from=20
Thumper(they are rather vague and say nothing about the needle at all) =
it says "=20
after starting the engine and warming it up,
adjust the fuel screw in the front =
bottom of the=20
carb for best idle" I know where
this screw should be but on my carb =
there is a=20
brass plug with a very small hole
were the screw should be.
Next I can not get =
the screws on=20
the float bowl the break loose, any tricks for
this one?
And finally can you =
improve the=20
flow of the air box by removing the screen from
the snorkel. ( I know all about the =
Vortex box I=20
just cant afford it right now)
I am in the middle of =
this and=20
would like to get it done before the weather gets
cold again, here in Mich. we don't get =
to many=20
weekends in the 50s and 60s
in February.( no heat in the garage) =
Thanks in=20
advance for the help.
&nbs=
p; =
; =
=20
Jim Nugent Lansing Mich.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2000 18:59:27 -0000
From: "Edward Marlowe"
Subject: (dr) Fw: DR 350
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- ----- Original Message -----=20
From: Edward Marlowe=20
To: dr@lists.xmission.com=20
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: DR 350
ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ 400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov 98')
Under manufactures warranty until 11, 2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use only.
CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis rally pro handguards =
and frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with plenty of power.
=A32300 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire
emarlowe@globalnet.co.uk
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----- Original Message -----=20
Sent: Friday, February 25, 2000 8:52 PM
Subject: DR 350
ATTENTION ALL UK SUBSCRIBERS
Due to the imminent arrival of a new DRZ =
400E!!
FOR SALE
97' DR 350 SE(unused until Nov =
98')
Under manufactures warranty until 11, =
2000
1 owner, only 3000 miles, green lane use =
only.
CRD end can, opened air box and re-jetted, Acerbis =
rally pro=20
handguards and frame protectors.
Well set up for off-road use and runs superbly with =
plenty of=20
power.
=A32300 o.n.o
Located West Yorkshire
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with "unsubscribe dr" in the body of the message.
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------------------------------
End of dr-digest V1 #52
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