From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest) To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: dr350-digest V1 #22 Reply-To: dr350-digest Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk dr350-digest Sunday, April 18 1999 Volume 01 : Number 022 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 07:07:03 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey >Good idea on the survey, I will be interested in the results. >Hope this is in the spirit of the list! Completely... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:01:17 -0600 From: "Karl Stingl" Subject: Re: (dr350) carb mod survey I have a 91 DR350S... top cut out of the airbox... FMF Performax muffler (w/ quiet core and 6 discs)... I run a 137.5 main (1 size above stock) a JX needle and spring... all my riding is done at 5,000 feet and above... Am very happy with all the changes I have made. The larger jet has made the bike run quite a bit cooler and easier to start when it is hot... I also removed the cap covering the fuel adjust screw (drilled a hole in it and used a screw to pull it out) and then installed a Scotts T-handle adjustment screw to make adjustments easier while riding (a good purchase)... I have found that by keeping the carb adjusted to the conditions (altitude, temperature, etc...) the slow speed handling is much more steady and predictable... Scotts also sells a tool to make valve adjustments easier. Has anybody changed to a dirt only carburetor, and Edelbrock, or any other carb? I am just wondering what performance gain can be realized my making the switch. Karl Any fool can criticize, condemn and complain, and most fools do. - -Ben Franklin ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:08:01 -0500 (CDT) From: njkouba@ix.netcom.com Subject: Fwd: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage >I am new to the group and this may have already been mentioned but here >is what would be helpful when considering the Kouba Link. >I weigh 190, have a 5.10 Kenda rear tire and heavier wt Progressive >springs front and rear. >The back tire bottoms severely in airbox/inner front fender area. Norm >says 5.10 is too big. Also IMHO the progressive part of the PS spring is >still too soft and a straight would should be used. I know that PS is >popular with DR riders( I like them too) but this should be considered >along with tire size ( I have used as large as 5.30 Chen Shin before). >The links are great , just thought someone might need to know if they >have a similar setup and are going to buy the Kouba. >BTW can the rear spring be removed and changed w/o a special tool? The >shop did it the first tie but would like to do it myself if possible. >Thanks, > Jim A. > 90DRS > > > > > Jim: To change the rear spring, put the bike on a center stand, remove the seat, side panels. Remove the bolts holding the links on and remove the links. Remove the top and bottom shock mounting bolts and the two resevoir mount bolts. Block the rear wheel up approx 8" and the shock, spring, and resevoir will come out the bottom. Everything is the same when you put it back on only in reverse order. To get the spring off the shock, tap the jam nut loose with a dull chisel ( I use a piece of 1/4" key stock and ground round on one end) then oil the threads and the bottom "C" retainers, and hand turn the spring and remaining nut untill loose enough to remove the two "C" retainers that are inside of the bell type collar at the bottom of the spring. Install the new spring in reverse order and tighten up the spring retaining nuts untill the spring is preloaded about 16mm. That will get you close to the 2.5" of sag. After its ALL back together put all of the normal luggage on the bike or the equivilent weight, stand on the pegs in full riding gear and set the sag at 2.5"-3.0" by either tightening or loosening the spring retaining nuts. Sag being the amount the rear axel moves vertically between no weight and loaded as described above. Norm Suzuki DR Suspensions DR. DR ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 14:46:25 -0600 From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) Suggestions for Kouba link useage >You've pretty much confirmed my experience >with knobbies on pavement . . You didn't mention it, but I assume >you have put on rim locks. No rim locks. No problems so far, either with my DRS350 or my KTM 620 (knock on wood). The rim locks make it difficult to balance the tire. Note my riding is generally at higher speeds, blasting across Montana countryside's dirt and gravel roads. TW ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:51:46 -0400 From: Harald Glass Subject: Re: (dr350) To Rim Lock or Not To Rim Lock Tom Warr wrote: > >You've pretty much confirmed my experience > >with knobbies on pavement . . You didn't mention it, but I assume >you > have put on rim locks. > > The rim locks make it difficult to balance the tire. I second that observation! Perhaps I'm stating the obvious, but "staking" the rim where it mates with the bead more radically than some alu rims come from the factory, helps to keep the tire in place and the valve stem straight. Take a sharp wood chisel (may Herr Burkhardt, the shop teacher spin in his grave) and throw a nice furrow or barb every 4 inches facing in both directions on the rear, only "biting" in the braking direction for the front rim. That locks the bead firmly unto the rim down to 10 psi tire pressure, even after mud and water crossings, and provides extra insurance at high pressure, high speed blow outs: you get a few extra seconds before things get really wobbly. Big CAVEAT: change innertubes VERY carefully (limply inflated and bathed in corn starch) and keep a few band aids handy, just in case. Then hone wood chisel to Benno Burkhardt's specs and return it to the wood working drawer as if nothing happened. Cheers, Harald in Millbrook still haunted by my dead teachers ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:56:24 -0400 (EDT) From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) Re: dr350 carb mod survey I use a 34 mm flatslide Mikuni (White Bros) with their 385 kit. If anyone else uses this carb I would be interested in your jetting specs. I find this carb picky about the jetting, very temp dependent. Jim A. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 12:23:24 -0400 From: PATRICK ANDERSON Subject: (dr350) Valve lash settings? Anyone know the lash specs for the valve on a 94 dr350se? Do I adjust them hot or cold? Thanks! PJ ------------------------------ End of dr350-digest V1 #22 **************************