From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest) To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: dr350-digest V1 #38 Reply-To: dr350-digest Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk dr350-digest Monday, May 3 1999 Volume 01 : Number 038 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:37:36 -0700 From: George Kovacs Subject: (dr350) Suspension question Hi, First i like to say, that this DR list is one of the best thing , that a DR owner can get. Lots of great questions and answers. Thanks for starting this whole thing , i believe it was you Kurt, right? As far as i know they went to cartridge fork on 97 on the front.( Showa- brand ? )Honda has the same one is in it ? The question : I did read about suspension weakness on DRs , i have a 99 model , did Suzuki fixed the suspension problem , is it any better than the previous year model? Or does my 99 susp. have the same sickness as the others ( too soft) I could not tell if it is soft or not, because i always had " Rice-rockets" , Zx-6 , Zx-11, in the past, and could not compare to Mx or other DP bikes. Also if some one could tell me the best setting for compression and rebound adjustment on front and rear. I tried to adjust but could not tell much different, ( inexperience???). What is the most dangerous setting that one possibly can have , Low compression and high rebound? or the other way around? Thanks for any advice. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 00:34:32 -0400 From: PATRICK ANDERSON Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money on beer. What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to them as a "band aid." Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what is on the bike. Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? Thanks for tips PJ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:02:38 -0700 From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. > OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; > 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ > 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ > 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ > 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I think this looks correct. There's no question that option 4 is the ultimate fix to the DR's suspension. It's just a matter of how much you want to spend, and what you want to do with your bike. I installed CFEs in my '97 DRSE, and if I had another DRS with damping rod forks (I think they went the cartridge on the street models in '99 for the first time) that wasn't for motocross, I'd do the same thing again. The performance benefits are substantial, and definitely worth it. Pluses: + Allows the compression of the fork to be "linear" versus the hydraulic "lock" that happens on the damping rod forks under high-speed compressions. + Allows tuning of the compression and rebound Minuses: - - Tuning of the compression and rebound aren't doable "on the fly" (compression adjustments can be done with the forks still on the bike, but require removal of the springs and CFEs; rebound adjustment is done with oil viscosity changes.) To do the work of installing the CFEs is not a big deal, though I really would recommend having access to an impact wrench (the rods will easily spin inside the fork as you're trying to remove or install the damping rod bolt.) Race Tech includes excellent instructions with the CFEs. You'll also need to replace the springs, as the stock ones are then too long (and if you weigh more than 170 pounds, generally too weak anyway) once the CFEs are installed. To determine your spring rate, see http://www.race-tech.com. Click on . **** Shameless personal ad to follow BTW, the new springs run $89.99 from Race-Tech. I have a set, part number FRSP 3750K, in the original box, that I'll sell for $55, including shipping in the US. (Hopefully a quick personal ad on this list is okay...) **** I hope this helps. If you have any questions (which I doubt you will after viewing the instructions), I'd be happy to help if I can. Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento (BTW, I rode on my new Gold Valve-equipped shock today for the first time. It was: - - PLUSH on everything - - Softer on the little stuff - - Stiffer on the jumps In other words, it is definitely worth it!) (I'm not a spokesman for Race-Tech -- just a happy customer, multiple times...) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 01:11:11 EDT From: Scot350@aol.com Subject: (dr350) Start switch on DR-se models My start switch on my '97 se model died......I had asked for assistance with relocating the start switch. I traced wire and found that if you have to, the bundle coming from the right side switch assembly......splice into the orange wire and the yellow with a green stripe wire with a non-holding pushbutton switch (kill switch) mounted conveniently is good. Right now, I have a hold and release switch that holds the starter "in" so you can clear a flooded engine providing you have stouter wiring than stock!! Have fun, dudes.....my brother and I made about 30 laps each around my H/S trail today, alternating between my DR and my '96 RM250.....DR was a blast, despite having a slick rear tire (435cc bigbore kits eat em up)...actually looked forward to riding the DR!!! See ya, nutties! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:49:39 -0700 From: Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. PJ, You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350 except my wallet was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic damper rod fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not bitter @ them for that). Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where you want to go with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I vote for #2 (RT Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the Kouba link and get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the stuff if your situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills exceed what these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts because you can recover some of your $. Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B. 4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges (compression adjustment only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98 up (comp. & reb. adjmt's). If you go the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too; it has more shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have Scott's (see: I'm not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter. 4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable seller in Cycle News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If you go this route then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock out back. Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than any of the other option you listed (as they are stocked parts/services that take only $ to acquire.) Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where it mounts the real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the prospect of having something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having headshake problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the *only* concern, and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east (woods) they prefer the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff. The Scott's is made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called GP used to make one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if they are still in business. John PATRICK ANDERSON on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON To: List cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money on beer. What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to them as a "band aid." Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what is on the bike. Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? Thanks for tips PJ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:52:00 -0400 From: "Sperduto, Nick" Subject: RE: (dr350) DR 350 kick start Did you get an answer about this ? I asked arounf when I was going to buy a 99 and no one really knew. I was going to try and figure it out myself, but I never bought the bike. I know the hole is stil in the cover and it looks like the electric start works off of the other side of the bike. I was going to go into my shop and they were going to let me look at the microfiche. I figured if the clutch basket was the same on the non electric models. Then all that should have to be done was to add the kickstarter mechanism. Good luck and let everyone know what you find out. ---------- From: JeepGeek2@aol.com To: dr350@lists.xmission.com Subject: (dr350) DR 350 kick start Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:17PM I have a 96 electric start DR 350. Has anyone tried to add or remove the electric start to add a Kick start instead? I was wondering incase the battery dies while out on a trail. you could always kick start it back up. or would the kick start free up some the DR's weight problem? Mark ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:02:34 -0500 From: "Brian Luttman" Subject: RE: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. What is involved with installing RM/RMX forks and shocks? Do these items "bolt-on" or are some modifications required? Brian Luttman 1994 DR350SE (For Sale $2100) Arlington, Texas bluttman@hpnc.com > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com > [mailto:owner-dr350@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of > john.gill@conexant.com > Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:50 AM > To: PATRICK ANDERSON > Cc: List > Subject: Re: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. > > > PJ, > > You may not notice any change with #1; I didn't on my old TT350 > except my wallet > was thinner - there is only so much one an expect from the basic > damper rod > fork, although Scott's led me to believe otherwise (I'm not > bitter @ them for > that). > > Your best option depends upon your skill and what you do or where > you want to go > with it. Since value received is an object of your inquiry, I > vote for #2 (RT > Emulators & that you buy Bryan's springs, but you should do the > Kouba link and > get a stiffer spring on the back to match. Later you can sell the > stuff if your > situation changes, i.e., more $ becomes available or your skills > exceed what > these mods offer, and you're not any worst off for your efforts > because you can > recover some of your $. > > Option #4 can be expanded into two subsets. Let's make them 4A & 4B. > > 4A: find dirt vers. '94 up forks; they came w/cartridges > (compression adjustment > only, not rebound), or dirt vers. & SE '98 up (comp. & reb. > adjmt's). If you go > the dirt parts route then make sure you get the dirt shock too; > it has more > shaft travel, resulting in 1" more travel O/A, or you can have > Scott's (see: I'm > not bitter @ them) redo your shock to match - don't go through the former > trouble and not finish/complete the job with the latter. > > 4B: RM or RMX forks. This is the way I went - found a reasonable > seller in Cycle > News; mulled it over a month or so before closing the deal. If > you go this route > then you can have Scott's redo your shock, or use an RM/RMX shock > out back. > > Patience is required if you go w/either of these, more so than > any of the other > option you listed (as they are stocked parts/services that take only $ to > acquire.) > > Stabilizers. The Scott's (Unic) has more adjustments, but where > it mounts the > real estate too precious to exclude DS & enduro gear, and the > prospect of having > something that close to my face/chest not encouraging. Not having > headshake > problems, the desire to dampen rock/square edge blows was the > *only* concern, > and the WER takes care of those just fine. Seems back east > (woods) they prefer > the WER; out west (dez), the Scott's. They are about $100 diff. > The Scott's is > made in Europe, the WER in USA. A company in Hesperia, CA called > GP used to make > one similar to the Scott's w/o the knobs, but I do not know if > they are still in > business. > > John > > > > > PATRICK ANDERSON on 05/02/99 09:34:32 PM > > Please respond to PATRICK ANDERSON > > To: List > cc: (bcc: John D Gill/RSS/Rockwell) > Subject: (dr350) Even more suspension questions. > > > > > OK, maybe I already missed the discussion about this. I am considering > upgrading the forks on my 94 dr350se, I have several options before me > and I am wondering which is the best bang for the buck; > 1. send the fork out and get it rebuilt with some stock valve mods$ > 2. install the cartritdge fork emulators$$ > 3. buy the conversion kit and convert them to cartridge$$$ > 4. Find cartridge forks and fit them to the bike$$$$$$$$$$ > I spoke with Mr Kouba about this and he was not really into the > cartridge emulators, he advised the conversion kit or new shocks. > However the emulators are in my price range. I could save for a while > and get the cartridge conversion kit. Or I could say, "to heck with it > all!" get the fork rebuilt with the valve mods and spend the extra money > on beer. > What I would really like to know is how the emulators work? Do they > really do a good job, or are they hype? Mr Kouba kept referring to > them as a "band aid." > Obviously I dont motocross or anything. I like to ride mildly > aggressively, and plan on riding more in the dirt. But I also like to > commute to work. I just want something more safe and friendly than what > is on the bike. > Also does anyone have any experience with steering dampers? I know the > Scott is the trickest, but how is the WER or the other one? > Thanks for tips > PJ > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ End of dr350-digest V1 #38 **************************