From: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com (dr350-digest) To: dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: dr350-digest V1 #59 Reply-To: dr350-digest Sender: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-dr350-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk dr350-digest Tuesday, May 25 1999 Volume 01 : Number 059 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:43:30 -0500 From: "chasmatic" Subject: (dr350) Fw: Why Bikers Dont wave Since we are discussing BMW's and the relative merits of the F650 and it's qualifications to be included as a BMW, thought it might be appropriate to pass along these little wisdoms. Since many of us seem to have BMWs, I think most of you will get a kick out of them, especially the #1 reason Harral TOP TEN REASONS HARLEY RIDERS MAY NOT WAVE BACK 10...Afraid it will invalidate warranty 9...Leather and studs make it too hard to raise arm 8...Refuses to wave to anyone whose bike is already paid for 7...Afraid to let go of handlebars because they might vibrate off 6...Rushing wind would blow scabs off the new tattoos 5...Angry because just took out second mortgage to pay luxury tax on new Harley 4...Just discovered the fine print in owner's manual and realized H-D is partially owned by those rice burner manufacturers 3...Can't tell if other riders are waving or just reaching to cover their ears like everyone else 2...Remembers the last time a Harley rider waved back, he impaled his hand on spiked helmet and the Number One reason Harley riders don't wave back: 1...They're jealous that after spending $30,000, they still don't own a BMW. TOP TEN REASONS GOLD WING RIDERS MAY NOT WAVE BACK 10...Wasn't sure whether other rider was waving or making an obscene gesture 9...Afraid might get frostbite if hand is removed from heated grip 8...Has arthritis and the past 400 miles have made it difficult to raise arm 7...Reflection from etched windshield momentarily blinded him 6...The expresso machine just finished 5...Was actually asleep when other rider waved 4...Was in a three-way conference call with stock broker and accessories dealer 3...Couldn't find the "auto wave back" button on dashboard 2...Was simultaneously adjusting the air suspension, seat height, programmable CD player, seat temperature and satellite navigation system and the Number One reason Gold Wing riders don't wave back: 1...They couldn't see through the glare from the chromed dash accents Now here's why another BMW rider might not wave to you: 10. New Aerostich suit too stiff to raise arm. 9. New owner trying to figure out how to cancel blinker from previous turn. 8. Too sore from a 500-mile day on a stock seat. 7. In the process of changing CDs on his K1200RT. 6. He's an Iron Butt rider and you're not! 5. Cramped up from riding K1200RS for the past hour. 4. He belongs to the "other" owners' association. 3. Trying to figure out how he'll make his next payment. 2. Has to hold on with both hands to withstand the surging. And the number one reason why he might not wave: 1. You're not riding the "right kind" of BMW. > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:59:34 PDT From: "Bryan Nolastname" Subject: (dr350) McGyver story; changing clutch plates; sticky shifting Before my question & comment, got to tell you all about the "McGyver" I pulled the other day: Out on a sleepy trail, miles from nowhere, I stop in a hiway access parking lot. Walk, stretch, pee, drink, then...get on bike, pull in clutch lever, *SNAP*!! The cable busted! Right at the clutch actuator arm where the cable ends & the little lead round thing is pressed/melted to the cable is where it broke. I thought & thought & thought about how to get back thru the 10 miles of mild but muddy trails and then 40 Interstate miles back to Dallas. Here's what I did: I cut the metal hook off one end of a bungee cord, used my Leatherman tool to make a loop through the clutch lever arm where the lead end thing was, then made a sharp bend at the other end. I ran the one inch or so of excess clutch cable thru the bend, then clamped the bungee hook wire in it as tight as I could. Then, I took off one of the factory Suz cable ties (like a zip tie but removeable), and cinched down the clutch cable back onto itself. A little adjustment on the cable, and that baby worked as good as the original cable! Very impressed with myself! But important lesson learned: in mid-July when I take my week-long ride in the mountain trails in Colorado, I'm taking damn near every tool I could need, as well as an extra cable, 2 tubes, and whatever other small spares & replacement parts I can think of! Question: I just ordered a Barnett Kevlar Dirt Digger clutch kit from MAW for $94. It comes w/ the friction plates, steel (drive?) plates, springs, and I hope any gaskets necessary for job. I have never changed out clutch plates on anything. Is it hard? Need any special tools? I think I remember someone saying an impact wrench was necessary...true? Comment: On my 95SE, I've always noticed that the transmission is very stubborn when cold...neutral being almost impossible to find, and if I dont rev er up a bit, she'll die when I kick it into first gear. Once in first (this is only during first 10 min of operation or so), even w/ clutch pulled all way in, the bike will be wanting to "walk" forward if I'm on level ground. All this goes away after 10-15 min. When fully warmed, shifting action is OK, but I'd like it to be better. Will my new, strong, Kevlar clutch help or hinder these problems? BTW, anyone try Thumper's "easy-pull" clutch arm gizmo? Bryan in Dallas 95 DR350SE _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:29:19 +0200 From: "Christian R." Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 650 RS Yes !!!! I bought 1 week ago a DR650SE '96 Seems to be a nice bike, very good engine... But does anyone know how to add an odometer on it ?? Thanks - -----Original Message----- From: Makis Kypraios To: dr350@lists.xmission.com Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 7:36 PM Subject: (dr350) DR 650 RS >I am the happy owner of a 1991 DR 650 RS and I just wanted to know if there >are other DR 650 owners on this list and especially DR 650 RS owners... > >I'd really love to hear from you... > >Thanks in advance > >Makis Kypraios >3D Animator >DR 650 RS > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:49:21 -0700 From: Bryan Cowger Subject: Re: (dr350) DR 650 RS > But does anyone know how to add an odometer on it ?? I'd recommend using a mtn bike computer. Start with: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/1501/harvanek.htm Instead of the magnet mounting method shown on that web site, I bought a couple little (~1/8" diameter) rare earth magnets from radio shack. Drill a hole in your brake rotor to just accomodate the magnets, stack them on top of each other, and epoxy the two into that hole. They end up slightly less in thickness of the rotor itself. Place the sensor (using a couple zip ties) so the end of the sensor (not the middle) is close to where the magnets pass by. Zip tie the coax cable (see the web page) to the brake line, and run it up to the handle bar mount. A front disk guard (like from Maier's) does a good job of protecting it all. Bryan '96 DR441 Sacramento ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:06:39 -0700 From: jessekientz Subject: Re: (dr350) oil filter o-ring Bryant, most bearing supply houses carry O'rings, listed under bearings in the yellow pages. Jesse Bryant Wang wrote: > Hey everyone > > I changed my bike's oil for the first time and saw that it was missing the > small o-ring that's against the filter. > does anyone know where I can get this o-ring through the mail? > > or should I just find one at the hardware store? > > thanks > Bryant > > _______________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:02:45 -0500 From: aches@deltech.net (Andrus Chesley) Subject: (dr350) Re: T-vents - --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? Am I missing something? Thanks. = Minh = This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter change time comes up.... Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and having to learn all over again. Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... ;-). - -- Cheers and Best Regards Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking '97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) '97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) "So Many Roads, So Little Time" http://www.deltech.net/members/aches - --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it
somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose?
Am I missing something?

Thanks.

 = Minh =
This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter change time comes up....

Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and having to learn all over again.  Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... ;-).
--
Cheers and Best Regards
Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking
'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga)
'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy)
"So Many Roads, So Little Time"
http://www.deltech.net/members/aches
  - --------------0C5256996CC99D737E7D6578-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:33:16 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (dr350) Re: T-vents Andrus and list... please post in plain text only...anything else causes garbage to the digest subscribers...thanks, Kurt Simpson - -----Original Message----- From: Andrus Chesley To: DRList Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 7:10 PM Subject: (dr350) Re: T-vents >Why can't you just point the original hose down and zip tie it >somewhere low and forget about the T and the additional hose? >Am I missing something? > >Thanks. > > = Minh = >This is what I'm gonna try Minh. I'll just remove the hose from where >it's going and put it down like all the bikes use to be before the >EPA....... Ha ha ha.....Ya ought to see what I did to my BMW R11GSA a >couple years ago... And gonna to it to the R11RA as soon as fuel fiter >change time comes up.... > >Oh by the way.... found out that these pilot jets in the SE Carbs not >same as regular pilot jets.... Been away from this stuff to long and >having to learn all over again. Fuel injection rather spoils ya..... >;-). >-- >Cheers and Best Regards >Andy Chesley @ 56 and ticking >'97 BMW R11RA (Amiga) >'97 Suzuki DR350SE (Suzy) >"So Many Roads, So Little Time" >http://www.deltech.net/members/aches > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:58:03 PDT From: Subject: Re: (dr350) McGyver story; changing clutch plates; sticky shifting I broke a clutch cable too several years ago, right where the cable goes into the lead end piece, at the lever end of the cable. I had about 15 miles of interstate highway riding to get back to camp and just shifted without the clutch. I took the cable to a local bike shop and had a new end installed, their repair job looked better than the factory end. The factory end is undersized and has a stupid little plastic sleeve around it that gets chewed up after many miles of riding, creating slop where the lead end piece pivots in the clutch lever. I think the slop created after the plastic sleeve turned to dust caused the cable to rub against the lever, etc. then the cable eventually broke. The new end was the same size as the hole in the lever. After returning home I ordered a new clutch cable and carry it as a spare along with spare brake, clutch and shift levers. I've never needed the spares myself but have loaned them to other DR riders in need along the trail until the end of the day. Doug Tacoma, WA soon the be in Moab for the Rally ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:53:07 -0600 From: "Tom Warr" Subject: Re: (dr350) clutch cables I have also broken a clutch cable at the same weak point you describe. I might suggest replacing it about every 5000 miles, or at least keep a close eye on that end of the cable. TW ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500 From: George Kovacs Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking Hi folks, Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with the bikes setting. This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed, but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well. If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing the carb. I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4 barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3). It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block to turn the cable. Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory , for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable, so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM. If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do. Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode. (Little rich is always better than little lean) George ( the bad mechanic) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:26:27 -0400 (EDT) From: jadler@webtv.net (James Adler) Subject: (dr350) clutch Bryan, I doubt you will get a gasket for the clutch side case with your clutch kit, probably have to ge it separately. The clutch has the lock-tab type washer on the nut holding the hub on, hopefully an air impact wrench will loosen the nut after bending the tab out, otherwise improvising is in order. The clutch pull will be harder, I have an EBC kit and it is stffer but works well. I put on that MSR/Wirtz lever assembly and it helped alot. Jim A. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:15:38 -0500 From: George Kovacs Subject: (dr350) idle -fuel air mixture tweaking Hi folks, Note : this is only for those, who likes to experiment and tinker with the bikes setting. This experiment was done after the JX needle and spring was installed, but i am sure it would do the same to stock carbs as well. If you have a CV -constant velocity- carb, and have the "T" handle type adjusting needle for for idle - air mixture adjuster, or have the factory plug out , and some how managed to adjust this with out removing the carb. I do adjust mine with a tool that i purchased years ago to adjust 4 barrel GM and Chrysler carbs( $3). It is a cheap flexible 10" spring like cable , and one end is a flat screwdriver bit end 1/4" length , and the other end is a plastic block to turn the cable. Any way, as some already know, the mixture is set lean from the factory , for emission reasons. What i found is, if you turn the mixture screw out (will create a rich condition) idle will drop and be a bit unstable, so you will have to turn it up to get it back to 1500 RPM. If you can live with the idle quality , you will get a much stronger pull, from idle till the main jet takes over. I know lots of people does not like the snappy trottle, but i sure do. Again try to remember how many turn did you turn it out from the original , in case you want to go back to woosie mode. (Little rich is always better than little lean) George ( the bad mechanic) ------------------------------ End of dr350-digest V1 #59 **************************