From: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com (hist_text-digest) To: hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: hist_text-digest V1 #89 Reply-To: hist_text Sender: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk hist_text-digest Saturday, June 20 1998 Volume 01 : Number 089 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 20:01:28 -0500 From: John Kramer Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Patch Lube / BP Cleaner At 12:44 PM 6/16/98 -0600, Charlie P. Webb wrote: > =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 The water soluble oil is actually very similar to=20 >some of the available lubricants used thru the mid 1700's through >the 1860's=A0=20 I am curious as to specifically which lubricants you refer to. =20 The earliest reference to a W.S.O. I've found speaks of saponifying mineral oil with alkali soap and water to produce a Water Soluble Oil. An early 20th century technique with a petroleum base oil. I have found no early= references to this technique being used with lard oil or any other oil. John... John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0 =20 Kramer's Best Antique Improver >>>It makes wood wonderful<<< =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<< <http://www.kramerize.com/> mail to: =20 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 16:42:26 -0500 From: John Kramer Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist At 12:58 PM 6/17/98 -0500, you wrote: >At 12:16 AM 6/17/98 -0400, DCard wrote: >>John, I have always had the utmost respect for your knowledge >>of the old ways, but my respect has way increased upon discovering >>that you use bear sperm for patch lube.=A0 I don't even want to know >>how you come by this substance, but suffice it to say that I am >>impressed! >> >> >>> In silver tip country I load 105 gr. FF under 14 - 00 buck size swan= shot >>> under >>> a (bear/sperm oiled) patched .69 round ball for wading.=A0 Ain't that= much >>> fun to >>> shoot, up close it never misses. >DCard, > I thought maybe this could use a little more elaboration. Why is sperm oil the best? Because of its oxidizing qualities, or lack thereof.=A0 Sperm oil never= really dries out and barely thickens on long exposure to air.=A0 Jojoba is next= best in this quality.=A0 Bear oil is real good.=A0 They both cling well to metal= surfaces. Paul Jones may have had a good idea about mixing them, extending the little sperm oil available by diluting with bear oil, perhaps improving the= qualities of the bear oil.=A0 I may have to try it. The reason this is an advantage is I can lube up strips of patch cloth and= cut buckskin wads (cut squares of scrap strung on a rawhide thong hanging off= the side of my pouch) ahead of time and not worry about them drying out, always having a light oiled patch or shot wad that never fouls the powder.=A0 I= just whack off what I need as I need it and use it with no further prep.=A0 I als= o use them to wipe the gun down.=A0 Keeps patch and wadding handy, ready to use.= =A0 When used to lube moving metal parts the oil stays where it is needed and is= little effected by time, temperature or exposure to air. I suggest the use of jojoba not because it was used during the period but because it is derived by methods used during the period for processing= similar materials.=A0 It is a pressed or extracted oil processed much like linseed.= =A0 It is not a new chemical concoction though it wasn't extracted and its= properties examined until about 1920.=A0 The harvesting of sperm whales should no= longer be done and this provides a simple one to one substitution with the next best thing.=A0 One compromise to help preserve a specie should not beget an= anything goes attitude. Sweet oil, linseed oil, whale oil, bear oil or the rendered fat of any= animal could also be used.=A0 They are not as suitable because they do oxidize more rapidly and can gum up the works.=A0 Some more quickly than others. Other period terms for sperm oil are cetaceum and spermaceti. John... John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0 =20 Kramer's Best Antique Improver >>>It makes wood wonderful<<< =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<< <http://www.kramerize.com/> mail to: =20 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 07:17:10 -0700 From: Vic Barkin Subject: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book Specifically to John K, Last week I was in Portsmouth, Va and stopped in a rere book store. Thought you'ld be interested in a hand written journal from 1810 I found (but did not buy) there. It is a Journal type book (originally sold with blank pages), hand written, lists recipied for paints, varnishes, stains, cleaners etc... The asking price was $150 U.S.. Out of my budget. I know I'll regret not picking it up so here's the next best thing... I'll get the adress to anyone interested in making this purchase on the condition that they transcribe the info found within and publish it to this list, I'm sure we can all benefit. If no one responds, I'll mull it over and if I decide I can no longer live happily without it I'll have to start saving my Halfpennies. Then, yes, I'll be happy to do the transcribing. There was another book, similar, but bound in vellum, with recipies for food and liquor mixes. the list on that was $165 U.S. and dated 1796, I believe Vic Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin AMM #1534 Three Rivers Party "Aux aliments du pays!" Booshway of the Powderhorn Clan of Arizona Celebrating our 50th anniversary 1948-1998 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 05:43:49 -0500 (CDT) From: pwjones@onr.com Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist John: I thought "spermaceti" is the white waxey substance taken from the=20 head cavity of the sperm whale. Was used for pharmacuticals, etc. I have= =20 about a pound. The sperm whale oil I have is rendered, and is a clear=20 liquid. Ron Harris and I purchased a gallon some time back. You are very= =20 correct, it is an excellent lube, and does not seem to dry out. Regards, = =20 Paul =20 >Because of its oxidizing qualities, or lack thereof.=A0 Sperm oil never= really >dries out and barely thickens on long exposure to air.=A0 Jojoba is next= best in >this quality.=A0 Bear oil is real good.=A0 They both cling well to metal= surfaces. > >Paul Jones may have had a good idea about mixing them, extending the little >sperm oil available by diluting with bear oil, perhaps improving the= qualities >of the bear oil.=A0 I may have to try it. > >The reason this is an advantage is I can lube up strips of patch cloth and= cut >buckskin wads (cut squares of scrap strung on a rawhide thong hanging off= the >side of my pouch) ahead of time and not worry about them drying out, always >having a light oiled patch or shot wad that never fouls the powder.=A0 I= just >whack off what I need as I need it and use it with no further prep.=A0 I= also >use >them to wipe the gun down.=A0 Keeps patch and wadding handy, ready to use.= =A0 When >used to lube moving metal parts the oil stays where it is needed and is= little >effected by time, temperature or exposure to air. > >I suggest the use of jojoba not because it was used during the period but >because it is derived by methods used during the period for processing= similar >materials.=A0 It is a pressed or extracted oil processed much like= linseed.=A0 It >is not a new chemical concoction though it wasn't extracted and its= properties >examined until about 1920.=A0 The harvesting of sperm whales should no= longer be >done and this provides a simple one to one substitution with the next best >thing.=A0 One compromise to help preserve a specie should not beget an= anything >goes attitude. > >Sweet oil, linseed oil, whale oil, bear oil or the rendered fat of any= animal >could also be used.=A0 They are not as suitable because they do oxidize= more >rapidly and can gum up the works.=A0 Some more quickly than others. > >Other period terms for sperm oil are cetaceum and spermaceti. > >John... > >John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0 >=20 >Kramer's Best Antique Improver >>>>It makes wood wonderful<<< >=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<< > ><http://www.kramerize.com/> > >mail to: =20 > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 11:08:47 -0600 (CST) From: mxhbc@TTACS.TTU.EDU (Henry B. Crawford) Subject: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube John, and the list, What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods outside the Rondy era? What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that would work. You know those chambers get warm in the summer and I've had a heck of a time keeping them sealed on hot days. When the revolver is in it's holster on my belt, the chambers are pointing down and if the grease is melted and flowing, out it comes. I've had a few chain-firings that way. I'd like to use some substance that would seal the chambers and not leak out. It should also lube the bore when fired. For now I use oiled wonder wads, but they're expensive. Who's got another idea? Is beeswax a good choice? Does it lube the bore? Thanks, HBC ***************************************** Henry B. Crawford Curator of History mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University 806/742-2442 Box 43191 FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191 WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum ****** Living History . . . Because it's there! ******* ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 13:01:50 -0600 From: cwebbbpdr@juno.com (Charlie P. Webb) Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Patch Lube / BP Cleaner John Kramer > writes: Charlie P. Webb wrote: >> The water soluble oil is actually very similar to >>some of the available lubricants used thru the mid 1700's through >>the 1860's >I am curious as to specifically which lubricants you refer to. Howdy John K, What I meant specifically was WSO works as a patch lube in muzzle loading firearms, its characteristics when used for this purpose are very similar to "Whale oil" and animal rendered oil such as bear. I have used both whale sperm and bear oil off and on since 1947, In my firearms (some original some replicas) there is little if any difference between patches lubed with sperm oil, bear oil, jojoba or WSO. The accuracy of a a firearm is not one bit better when sperm oil is used as a patch lube than it is with WSO or one of the many other lubes folks sing the praises of. As a oxidation or rust prevention WSO is a poor choice, here the sperm oil etc. shine. For Target shooting I get more and quicker fouling using sperm oil etc. because a thin film of oil/ grease is deposited to the walls of the barrel bore as the patch/ball combination is firmly seated on the powder. When fired the residual oil/grease seem to collect and hold the crud. This is no problem when hunting, and I do use them for that purpose. After a target relay of five shots the fouling must be wiped out. WSO or "Moose Milk"used as a patch lube does not do this. The ring of fouling just above the chamber also does not occur. I apologize for confusing the the issue, I simply was referring to WSO/Moose Milk as being similar in use as a patch lube to the known lubes from the 1700s thru the 1860s. Jojoba has worked well for me, how ever I have no source to replenish what little I have on hand. I just don't know where to get it here in Colorado. I have rendered bear oil myself over the years and used it, and also have a gallon or so of Whale oil that I horde. After many thousands of rounds in competion and time spent testing, I find as a patch lube they have no greater merit than "MooseMilk". The closest thing that I have found to matching whale oil is a lube called Ballistol, in use it even feels a lot like whale oil. It is supposed to have been developed in Germany around the turn of the century. I have not concluded testing it as a patch lube, but it does look promising. In the few months I have been using it as a gun lube, it has not dried out and no rust can be detected inside or out. Plus that, it is bio-degradeable. Again I am sorry when writing my post, I diden't make myself understood. Hope all have a good day, keep your powder dry, regardless of what patch lube you use, and thank the lord for hind sights! Respectfully, C Webb CC CO >The earliest reference to a W.S.O. I've found speaks of saponifying >mineral >oil >with alkali soap and water to produce a Water Soluble Oil. An early >20th >century technique with a petroleum base oil. I have found no early > references >to this technique being used with lard oil or any other oil. > >John... > >John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0 >=20 >Kramer's Best Antique Improver >>>>It makes wood wonderful<<< >=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<< > ><http://www.kramerize.com/> > >mail to: =20 > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:15:38 -0500 From: John Kramer Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book At 07:17 AM 6/19/98 -0700, you wrote: >Specifically to John K, > >Last week I was in Portsmouth, Va and stopped in a rere book store. Thought >you'ld be interested in a hand written journal from 1810 I found (but did >not buy) there. It is a Journal type book (originally sold with blank >pages), hand written, lists recipied for paints, varnishes, stains, >cleaners etc... The asking price was $150 U.S.. Out of my budget. I know >I'll regret not picking it up so here's the next best thing... > >I'll get the adress to anyone interested in making this purchase on the >condition that they transcribe the info found within and publish it to this >list, I'm sure we can all benefit. > >If no one responds, I'll mull it over and if I decide I can no longer live >happily without it I'll have to start saving my Halfpennies. Then, yes, >I'll be happy to do the transcribing. > >There was another book, similar, but bound in vellum, with recipies for >food and liquor mixes. the list on that was $165 U.S. and dated 1796, I >believe > >Vic > >Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin > Vic Pretty sneaky way to try and get someone else to do a transcription. Of course I'm interested in the book, send the address. I'll just not promise when I'll get it done. John... Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without. John Kramer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:49:24 -0600 From: jbrandl@wyoming.com (Joe Brandl) Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book I would be interested, how do we do this? Joe Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440 Write for custom tanning prices We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and hair on robes Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 16:51:36 -0500 From: John Kramer Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube At 11:08 AM 6/19/98 -0600, Henry Crawford wrote: >John, and the list, > >What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods >outside the Rondy era?=A0 What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that >would work.=A0 You know those chambers get warm in the summer and I've had= a >heck of a time keeping them sealed on hot days.=A0 When the revolver is in >it's holster on my belt, the chambers are pointing down and if the grease >is melted and flowing, out it comes.=A0 I've had a few chain-firings that >way.=A0 I'd like to use some substance that would seal the chambers and not >leak out.=A0 It should also lube the bore when fired.=A0 For now I use= oiled >wonder wads, but they're expensive.=A0 Who's got another idea?=A0 Is= beeswax a >good choice?=A0 Does it lube the bore? > >Thanks, >HBC > >***************************************** Henry, Chainfires may have been part of the thrill and excitement of owning a revolver. Though the Colt Paterson was introduced before 1840, I've not had much to do with BP revolvers. =20 I have not encountered an old recipe specifically to address this application.=20 I have heard that a little corn meal on top of the powder can help prevent chainfire. =20 Lead has been used as a lubricant though it builds up in a bore without= other lubricant to ease passage of the ball. White lead would work well (like machinists used to use), really hard to find, really dangerous to handle. I can tell you how to make it; if you're interested; I, strongly, don't recommend it. Other sulfate metals could also be added to tallow as a lube most all provide some level of poison hazard in handling. Beeswax would lube -- but in pure form might be difficult to pack tight in= the cylinder. If you melted a little rendered lard or bear oil in with the beeswax it would soften it enough to pack well, but it might not solve the melting problem on a hot day. =20 If a little hard soap like lye were added it might raise the melting temperature enough to keep the lube in place. A little pure carnauba wax (1850's) would also raise melting temperature. It will take some experimenting to get just the right consistency for ease= of application and resistance to melting in the holster. I'd probably start with 1 part fine rendered lard to 3 parts beeswax to 1/8 part carnauba or 1/2 part hard soap. Melt together in a double boiler. = Pour into tins to cool. Make small batches and experiment until you achieve the performance level desired. Carnauba will be more difficult to get to fuse than soap. To make a double boiler for this type of experimentation I would suggest a large and small tuna fish can with a 3/4 coil of heavy wire laid in the= bottom of the larger can to elevate the small one allowing a full water jacket= around the inner can containing the working materials. It would best be done in a fire safe area, the kitchen is only recommended if you are seeking domestic discord. Good Luck, John... Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without. John Kramer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:50:53 -0500 From: John Kramer Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Purist At 05:43 AM 6/19/98 -0500, you wrote: >John:=A0 I thought "spermaceti" is the white waxey substance taken from the= =20 >head cavity of the sperm whale.=A0 Was used for pharmacuticals, etc.=A0 I= have=20 >about a pound.=A0 The sperm whale oil I have is rendered, and is a clear=20 >liquid.=A0 Ron Harris and I purchased a gallon some time back.=A0 You are= very=20 >correct, it is an excellent lube, and does not seem to dry out.=A0= Regards,=A0=20 >Paul=A0=20 > > Paul, Sperm oil is supposed to be the same as spermaceti. Sperm whale oil is rendered from blubber. Sperm oil is the higher grade though the whale oil= is mighty fine stuff. I suspect much of what was sold over the past 50 years was sperm whale oil labeled sperm oil. I think most real sperm oil went to Naval Stores and Swiss watchmakers who really knew the difference. What= I've had is a fairly dark liquid with a distinct aroma. The material was widely used in pharmaceuticals and many industrial and consumer products. Even used for sealing wax. =20 Never having killed a whale I am relying on reading, what I've been sold,= and what I've been told, I know the most desirable oil came from a gland area in the head, the old references consider sperm oil and spermaceti the same. So either the gland contains both wax and oil or the oil was rendered from the wax. =20 In one of those libraries I no longer have access to; I seem to remember reading the oil was drawn off first and used as collected without other processing. John... John T. Kramer, maker of:=A0 =20 Kramer's Best Antique Improver >>>It makes wood wonderful<<< =A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 >>>As good as old!<<< <http://www.kramerize.com/> mail to: =20 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 14:59:26 -0700 From: Dale Nelson Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube Henry B. Crawford wrote: > > John, and the list, > > What about a black powder revolver lube for those of us who also do periods > outside the Rondy era? What is a period-correct (1840s-70s) lube that > would work. Water pump grease -- hard to find now days, but works great. I would suspect that the real old time long fiber axel grease would also work, and I think the closest you can find of that stuff is cable grease that they smear on cables and running riggin' etc. DN ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 18:49:15 EDT From: Subject: Re: MtMan-List: BP Revolver lube(chainfire myths) HBC writes: > > I've had a few chain-firings that way.=A0 and John Kramer answers=20 > Chainfires may have been part of the thrill and excitement of owning a > revolver. Though the Colt Paterson was introduced before 1840, I've n= ot had > much to do with BP revolvers. =20 > I have heard that a little corn meal on top of the powder can help pre= vent > chainfire.=20 Guys, Yer barkin' up the wrong tree. This is a common misconception about BP revolvers. Chainfires are not caused by an improper seal at the FRONT of= a BP revolver. Rather they are caused by using the wrong sized caps, not havi= ng them firmly seated, or having worn nipples. When you fire a chamber, the= ball is propelled forward and some of the explosion exits backwards through th= e nipple. This flame will ignite the adjacent cylinders if any of the abov= e conditions exist, and they can jump from cylinder to cylinder igniting th= em all. Generally, any chainfired balls will exit harmlessly if the gun is pointed safely. The exception is the cylinder in the 6 o'clock position = as it has no place to exit. The lube you put in the front of each cylinder is only that. It goes int= o the barrel and lubricates the ball. Dave Kanger New Listowner Muzzleloader Mailing list ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:47:01 -0700 From: Vic Barkin Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book John, I apologize. Joe's message came through to me first. It would be less than fair to offer it to the second. I did refer the original message to you from your obvious wealth of previous info. If the information contained within those pages is what you are after and not the collectability of the work, then may I suggest we let Joe see his quest through. however. If you are indeed interested in the book itsself, then Joe may wish to defer to you the pleasure of the purchase and trascription in favour of procuring a similar book that I mentioned before which is more food oriented, one page of which is a recipie for a drink with oranges rum and whiskey if my mind serves me. that was the one which is bound in white vellum, same area of the store. We'll get this worked out gents, although that poor bookstore may not know how to handle it's newfound business Sneaky, me? perish the thought. I do however look forward to the transcription of two books now.... Vic >Vic > >Pretty sneaky way to try and get someone else to do a transcription. > >Of course I'm interested in the book, send the address. I'll just not promise >when I'll get it done. > >John... > >Use it up, wear it out, make do, or do without. >John Kramer Vic Nathan Barkin, CGCM Printing and Reproduction Services Manager NAU Publication Services Box 4101, Flagstaff, AZ 86011 520-523-6160 Victor.Barkin@nau.edu ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 15:35:35 -0700 From: Vic Barkin Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book Alright Joe you responded first so you got the nod. The address is Smithfield Rare Books 429 High Street Portsmouth, Va 23704 (757) 393-1941 The book can be described as follows since they don't have a cataloging system On the right hand wall of the store when facing the front door halfway across and halfway down, in the rare book section Handwritten text from 1810, with marbled cover that has a slight tear in the front. about 7 x 9 inches, maybe 100 pages Contains recipies for such things as Milk Paint, Varnish etc... Has a price of $150.00 listed on the inside cover (light pencil) finding two such books matching that description would surprize the hell out of me. I completely trust than no one else will impede on your progress in this endeavor as we are all men of honor. Let us all know of your progress. Godspeed Vic >I would be interested, how do we do this? >Joe > >Absaroka Western Designs and Tannery >Call us about our professional home tanning kit-307-455-2440 >Write for custom tanning prices >We produce rawhide lampshades and carry a large selection of leather and >hair on robes >Fine lodgepole furniture, pillows, Indian reproductions, paintings, baskets >check out our new web site: http://www.onpages.com/absaroka Vic "Barkin Dawg" Barkin AMM #1534 Three Rivers Party "Aux aliments du pays!" Booshway of the Powderhorn Clan of Arizona Celebrating our 50th anniversary 1948-1998 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 22:34:03 GMT From: bamafan@Traveller.COM (PHIL PETERSEN) Subject: Re: MtMan-List: alum tanning Gary, If you will do as they say it works. I have had my share of success doing as they say. I have also asked more than my share of questions. They are great people to talk with and know their business. Phil >Gary, If you decide to give it a try and have any questions, feel free to >write and ask. > Longtrail > > > > O Sundog Traders O > > Joseph Dinsmore, M.T. & Victoria Longtrail D. > POB 182 Winnett, Montana 59087 > 406-429-7828 or ezra@midrivers.com > > > Brain Tanning > Less Instruction With More Results > by > Joseph Dinsmore & Victoria Longtrail D. > > >!. Flesh the deer hide. All you are concerned with is getting the meat >and fat off. Then place the hide in water and soak over night. Make sure >the hide is completely soaked. ( the greener the hide the easier to >dehair) > >2. Dehairing : Take the hide out of the water and place it over a beam >and dehair. The objective here is to get the brown layer (epidermis) off. >Keep in mind the fresher the hide the easier it is to dehair. If you are >using a "flint" or dried hide with the hair still on, soak it overnight >and flesh it again and you will notice the hide whitening out as you flesh. >When done, throw it back in the water overnight. It soaks much faster. >Dehair the next day. > >3. This is what I call pre-braining. Its better to pre-brain the hide >after you dehair while the hide is still pliable rather than letting it go >to rawhide. After you de-hair the hide put the hide in either an old brain >solution or a new one. If it goes to rawhide, soak overnight in cold water >and then stretch by hand. You will see the hide whitening out (not >totally). The objective here is to open the pores ( don't work all day it >only takes a couple of minutes) A metal strapping band ( the kind used to >bundle wood with) works the best for me. You can soak the hide in the >brain solution for as little as twenty minutes or over night. I prefer >over night. Brain solution recipe is at the end of the article. > >4. After pre-braining take the hide and hang it out to dry. Its not >necessary to wring out the hide Don't fold the hide on itself, prop it >open with sticks or whatever, or hang it straignt up and down. > >5. Soak the dried hide in COLD water over night. Lace the hide on a >frame, this is the pre-stretching phase. ( I emphasize cold water because >the hide is plyable enough to put on the frame and whiten out.) Before I >begin staking the hide, I sew all the holes. I do it at this point because >then there is no pucker, I use artificial sinew (personal preference). >All you are trying to do is whiten the hide out by staking it. The >weather dictates how often the hide needs to be staked (remember, your not >trying to soften it your just trying to whiten it). In recent experiments >it seems to stake out better when working side to side rather than up and >down. You will notice that when staking the hide, it sometimes starts to >soften up, if you like, keep working it, I don't. > >6. Pre-smoking. After the hide is whitened and dried out, smoke it. If >you think about it, if a white buckskin is smoked and gets wet, it softens >back up with very little work. Why can't you do it a pre-stretched hide! >I smoke the hide for three hours in a smoke house. (its nothing more than a >box made of four sheets of 4X8 plywood and a roof.) I hang my hides >horizontal about three foot from my smoke pot. The thing to keep in mind >is don't bake the hides. Keep a warm smoke (punky cedar is in my >experience, the best wood to use but you can use any kind of punky wood.) > >7. After smoking, put the hide back in the brain solution. I leave the >hide in it for thirty minutes to an hour. Take it out and rub it over the >band (I do this to make sure that there are no hard spots in the hide, if >there are hard spots, then soak it a bit longer.) Put it back in the brain >solution, you can either leave it for three hours or over night. > >8. Take the hide out of the solution, it is your choice of either putting >it through clothes wringer which is what I use, or wringing it out in any >method you choose. At this point I most often lace the hide onto the >frame and work it soft and dry. Usually the hips, rump and neck are the >last to dry. Don't stop working on the hide untill those spots are dry >and softened or they will harden in the middle. If at any time you have to >stop working on the hide, you can freeze it wrapped in a plastic bag until >you can get back to it. It requires you to be lazy. Not real lazy. It IS >possible to overwork the hide. > >Brain Solution Recipe: One cow brain, two gallons of water. Make it look >like a weak campbells tomato soup but don't eat it. Heat the solution >until warm, NOT hot. The beauty of this pre-smoking method is that you can >tan more hides with one cow brain. You will notice if you use this same >solution (add more water when needed) the hides will get easier and easier >to sofen out and the solution smells more like smoke than brains. >Sometimes I have to add another cow brain depending on how much additional >water I have added. I have found that rain water works best when making >the brain solution. Any kind of chemical in the water, such as chlorine >seems to have an adverse effect. I have done as many as twenty-two to >twenty-four hides with two cow brains. > >Feel free to call or e-mail with any questions you may have. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 15:48:38 EDT From: Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: 1810 Recipie book Hey John I volunteer to transcibe ten (10) pagesof your books if you buy them. Send me some copies if possible. Find 20 more volunteers and the jobs will be done. thanks js ------------------------------ End of hist_text-digest V1 #89 ****************************** - To unsubscribe to hist_text-digest, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe hist_text-digest" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.