From: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com (hist_text-digest) To: hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: hist_text-digest V1 #233 Reply-To: hist_text Sender: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-hist_text-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk hist_text-digest Tuesday, February 9 1999 Volume 01 : Number 233 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Dec 1999 22:42:55 -0600 From: "Lanney Ratcliff" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil I have discovered that the main difference between buckskinners and boy = scouts is that buckskinners don't have responsible adult supervision. = Did She Who Must Be Obeyed get a new kitchen out of the fiasco? Lanney Ratcliff - -----Original Message----- From: Henry B. Crawford To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 10:26 PM Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil > >>Don, > >[Sniperoo . . .] > > "you damn mess is burning the frecking kitchen >>down", not one word was studdered. >> >>This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that = kitchen, off >>course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters = either. >>Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a = lid. > >>Buck > > >Simple solution. Dig yourself a firepit and take the whole operation = outside. > >Cheers, >HBC > >***************************************** >Henry B. Crawford Curator of History >mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University >806/742-2442 Box 43191 >FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191 > WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum >****** Living History . . . Because it's there! ****** > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 00:15:10 -0500 From: "sean" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil Heh... I remember one time I tried making candles in the kitchen... OOPS!! The beeswax caught on fire, scorching hell outta the cabinets before I could get the Purple-K extinguisher from the garage... GADS!!! I think that was a bigger mess than the fire!! To answer a question ahead of time, Yeppers... she got the kitchen remodeled... Last damned time I did that in the house. Moved to my work shed after that along with lead pot, etc... Kept me outta trouble fer a while... Got me a new She Who MustBe Obeyed... She loves Ronnyvous'in as much as I do, so at least lets me into the garage... :) - -----Original Message----- From: Lanney Ratcliff To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 11:37 PM Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil >I have discovered that the main difference between buckskinners and boy scouts is that buckskinners don't have responsible adult supervision. Did She Who Must Be Obeyed get a new kitchen out of the fiasco? >Lanney Ratcliff >-----Original Message----- >From: Henry B. Crawford >To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com >Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 10:26 PM >Subject: MtMan-List: Re: Lindseed Oil > > >> >>>Don, >> >>[Sniperoo . . .] >> >> "you damn mess is burning the frecking kitchen >>>down", not one word was studdered. >>> >>>This mixture of linseed and beeswax really did a number on that kitchen, off >>>course the amount of water we put on that fire didn't help matters either. >>>Like you say be damn careful with heating in an open pot, even with a lid. >> >>>Buck >> >> >>Simple solution. Dig yourself a firepit and take the whole operation outside. >> >>Cheers, >>HBC >> >>***************************************** >>Henry B. Crawford Curator of History >>mxhbc@ttacs.ttu.edu Museum of Texas Tech University >>806/742-2442 Box 43191 >>FAX 742-1136 Lubbock, TX 79409-3191 >> WEBSITE: http://www.ttu.edu/~museum >>****** Living History . . . Because it's there! ****** >> >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 00:06:59 -0700 From: "Ron Chamberlain" Subject: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston Hello the list! I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website. You can read it at: or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format. Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!! Enjoy! YMOS Ron AKA Lonewolf Lewis Fork Free Trappers email: cstmzd@ida.net ICQ #26140332 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 02:44:04 -0500 From: greg n bosen Subject: Re: MtMan-List:blood poision is this from exposure to the bacteria of a rotten hide or can this accure with a sweet smelling hide too? Greg Bosen I did get blood poisioning from one of my hides a few years ago. > Once hide begin to smell, you take the chance of blood poisoning occuring to >yourself. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 05:55:49 PST From: "Matthew Hawley" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 19:57:36 -0800 Adam, HAve you tried catologs like red head or cabelas they both have top of the line muzzleloaders in flint lock too. check it out. matt (white eagle)hawley ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 08:18:48 -0700 (MST) From: delis@aztec.asu.edu (BRUCE S. DE LIS) Subject: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona. May question has to d o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f rom drying out. So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle. Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat, and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin g lock mortise area. Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D RY HEAT. Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated. - -- "The Price Of Freedom Is Not Free" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 10:31:47 -0600 From: "S.M.Despain-1" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat Bruce: Just an idea for you. Guitarists have much the same problem with guitars brought from moister climes to the intermountain west. One solution could be to get guitar humidifiers that you can put in a case with your rifle. They are available at most guitar or music shops and cost only a few bucks. But you need to keep them and the rifle in a confined space to maintain the humidity. I don't know about possible problems with the metal, but guitars have a bit and I've never had problems with those parts rusting or corroding. Good luck, Matt Depsain University of Oklahoma sdespain@ou.edu BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote: > First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona. May question has to d > o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I > have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t > he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and > even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f > rom drying out. So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle. > > Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat, > and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m > oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin > g lock mortise area. Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e > xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D > RY HEAT. Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated. > > -- > "The Price Of Freedom > Is Not Free" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 09:44:45 -0800 From: "Gail Carbiener" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston Ron: Thanks for the article on Johnston. I read an interesting book that continues the saga of Johnston: Crow Killer; The Saga of Liver-Eating Johnson. written by Raymond Thorp and Robert Bunker, Indiana University Press first in 1958. The authors recognize the story is "Oral history" Gail Carbiener ============================== >Hello the list! > >I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website. >You can read it at: > >or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article >zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format. > >Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!! > >Enjoy! >YMOS >Ron >AKA Lonewolf > > > > > >Lewis Fork Free Trappers > >email: cstmzd@ida.net >ICQ #26140332 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:21:42 -0700 (MST) From: delis@aztec.asu.edu (BRUCE S. DE LIS) Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat Great idea, Thanks, B > >Bruce: > >Just an idea for you. Guitarists have much the same problem with guitars brought >from moister climes to the intermountain west. One solution could be to get guitar >humidifiers that you can put in a case with your rifle. They are available at most >guitar or music shops and cost only a few bucks. But you need to keep them and the >rifle in a confined space to maintain the humidity. I don't know about possible >problems with the metal, but guitars have a bit and I've never had problems with >those parts rusting or corroding. > >Good luck, > >Matt Depsain >University of Oklahoma >sdespain@ou.edu > >BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote: > >> First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona. May question has to d >> o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, my old shooter is not really worth all the trouble I >> have put into keeping the stock well oiled to keep the thing from drying out in t >> he lovely Arizona Dry heat, I used everything available like 3-1 Oil, WD-40, and >> even Old English to keep the stock on the old shooter some oiled, to protect it f >> rom drying out. So I am getting ready to buy this nice Semi-Custom Rifle. >> >> Am wondering if any of you have had the opportunity to experience this Dry Heat, >> and found a product that really protect the wood, and keeps it stabilized, keep m >> oisture in the wood, so it down not shrink and dry out and pop inlays, or crackin >> g lock mortise area. Surely some of you come out to Winter Nationals, and have e >> xperienced the Arizona Dry Heat and understand what I am speaking of when I say D >> RY HEAT. Any product suggestion would be greatly appreciated. >> >> -- >> "The Price Of Freedom >> Is Not Free" > > > > - -- "The Price Of Freedom Is Not Free" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:30:45 -0700 (MST) From: delis@aztec.asu.edu (BRUCE S. DE LIS) Subject: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy Just finished reading a letter from a friend who is a better than fairly good Bl ack Powder target shooter, he maybe be out to the Winter Nationals here next week to do his best to win some of the prizes in some of the events. He shoots most the primitive matches, and is one H*** of a shot. Shoots nothing bigger than .45 Calibers, but .38-.40 Caliber are his favorites. Anyway back a while I ask him why all of these real good target shooter, who shoot Primitive and the non primit ive events shoot mostly with the smaller calibers, like .38-.45 Calibers. I am t alking about Non-Bench rifles, and I am also talking about Off-Hand Shooting. We ll I am no tech no whiz, but the words "More Consistency Keeps Coming Up In His L etter. Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis tent, accurate with a .50, .54 or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball on Calm Non-Windy Days. B - -- "The Price Of Freedom Is Not Free" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:56:52 -0600 From: Glenn Darilek Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy One factor may be that many competitive black powder shoots require the hole in the target to be entirely within the ring to be counted as in the ring. The smaller caliber has an advantage in that if the 38 caliber is just inside the line, a 54 caliber shot in the same spot would be touching the line and would be scored at the next lower ring. Not much difference, but in competition it can add up. On another shooting subject - has anyone ever tried having a tie breaker in black powder shooting in which using a flintlock would break the tie with a percussion, and using fixed sights would break a tie with one using adjustable sights. This seems inherently fair, and promotes authentic period shooting. If no one has heard of this, maybe I can claim the idea. Glenn Darilek Iron Burner BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote: > Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis > tent, accurate with a .50, .54 or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi > th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Feb 1998 07:01:01 -0600 From: "larry pendleton" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy Bruce, There is at least one very good reason. Velocity. You can very easily get enough velocity out of the smaller calibers, to enable them to shoot virtually flat out to one hundred yards and beyond. This eliminates the guess work of holding over or under the ten ring. Since competive shooting is in large part a mental game, this allows you to concentrate on the site picture without having to think about allowing for elevation. Most of the oldtimers who shot in the big time matches prefered the smaller calibers. Things haven't changed a bit. If you can, get hold of a copy of THE MUZZLE LOADING CAPLOCK RIFLE by NED ROBERTS. It is a great source of information on competive shooting. This is the same Ned Roberts who perfected the .257 Roberts cartridge. Pendleton - ---------- > From: BRUCE S. DE LIS > To: hist_text@xmission.com > Subject: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy > Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 5:30 PM > > > > Just finished reading a letter from a friend who is a better than fairly good Bl > ack Powder target shooter, he maybe be out to the Winter Nationals here next week > to do his best to win some of the prizes in some of the events. He shoots most > the primitive matches, and is one H*** of a shot. Shoots nothing bigger than .45 > Calibers, but .38-.40 Caliber are his favorites. Anyway back a while I ask him > why all of these real good target shooter, who shoot Primitive and the non primit > ive events shoot mostly with the smaller calibers, like .38-.45 Calibers. I am t > alking about Non-Bench rifles, and I am also talking about Off-Hand Shooting. We > ll I am no tech no whiz, but the words "More Consistency Keeps Coming Up In His L > etter. Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis > tent, accurate with a .50, .54 or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi > th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball on Calm Non-Windy Days. > > B > > -- > "The Price Of Freedom > Is Not Free" ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:31:06 -0600 From: "William S. Jones" Subject: RE: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston Ron, I don't post very often, but I did happen to read your post about John Johnston. I gather that you are not an AMM member, or you would likely know that this brother was again disinterred a number of years ago, and reburied by members of AMM, with Robert Redford assisting in carrying the remains, to a place far more compatible with the adventurous spirit of this legendary mountain man. Also, before you float this page for too long, you may want to run it through a spell checker. I didn't have a chance to read all of it, but noticed toward the ending, the transposed letters "ot" instead of "to". This, combined with the inaccuracy of his final resting place tips me off that there may be other mistakes/misspellings. Please understand that your effort is greatly appreciated, and the above is meant solely to be constructive in nature. Bill Jones "Waffalo" Hiveranno, AMM # 907 Past KY Bde. Booshway - -----Original Message----- From: owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com [mailto:owner-hist_text@lists.xmission.com]On Behalf Of Ron Chamberlain Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 1:07 AM To: Longtrail; Mt-Man list Subject: MtMan-List: John "Liver Eating" Johnston Hello the list! I finally got the article about J. Johnston done and posted on my website. You can read it at: or there is a link from my Clubs page below. If you would like this article zipped contact me OFFLIST and I will email. Zip is in Wordpad .doc format. Thank you Longtrail and TetonTod for the help!!! Enjoy! YMOS Ron AKA Lonewolf Lewis Fork Free Trappers email: cstmzd@ida.net ICQ #26140332 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 17:42:58 -0800 (PST) From: Lee Newbill Subject: Re: MtMan-List:blood poision Greg On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, greg n bosen wrote: > is this from exposure to the bacteria of a rotten hide or can this accure > with a sweet smelling hide too? When your working with the braintan (fleshing, dehairing and such), it doesn't take much for a hide to attract bacteria and the natural process of decompostion to begin (smelllll bad). The blood poisioning comes in when you have an opening on your hand such as a cut, scrape, or chapped skin, and you place it on the hide that has the bacteria on it. In essence, you are now infected with the same bacteria that are eating the dead deer hide. A rather unpleasant thought. Regards Lee Newbill of Viola, Idaho NMLRA member 058863 email at lnewbill@uidaho.edu Keeper of the "Buckskins & Blackpowder!" Webpage http://www.geocities.com/Yosemite/Gorge/7186 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:20:12 -0700 From: "Barry Conner" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy I have been around major shooters most of my life, many from the black powder ranks like Ron Long (2 or 3 time Olympic BP Champ), the Furlows and Don Davis to name a few. Long will shoot a 40 cal. with no wind and a 50 cal. with a little wind. These guys as many, don't worry about touching a scoring ring and if they do they consider it a miss, of course they shoot 49XXXX and 50 XXXXX targets, one right after another. I've seen Long at the Colorado State and New Mexico State Championships (many years in a row) shoot those type of scores with flint and prec. in larger calibers also. So as far as looking for an advantage in one cal. over another, size, speed or whatever, the really super shots, just practice a little more and do not worry about some of the ideas other shotters are looking at. A book on shooting muzzleloaders called, "MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING & WINNING WITH THE CHAMPIONS" talks about this and more, written by some old timers that have turned Friendship around with their scores over the years, like M.Vickery-W.Terry-B.Butcher-W.Grote-B.Carmichael- D.Davis-P.Allan-W.Boughton to name a few. Saw a match against high power cart. rifles w/scopes, the muzzleloaders won the 25 yd., 50 yd. bench and offhand matches hand down, and took 5 out of 12 of the 100 yd. matches with 50 cal. guns, these were all top notch shooters on both teams. Bet those high power boys did some more practice on the shorter ranges after that shoot. Buck ____________________- - -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Darilek To: hist_text@lists.xmission.com Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 4:54 PM Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy >One factor may be that many competitive black powder shoots require the >hole in the target to be entirely within the ring to be counted as in >the ring. The smaller caliber has an advantage in that if the 38 >caliber is just inside the line, a 54 caliber shot in the same spot >would be touching the line and would be scored at the next lower ring. >Not much difference, but in competition it can add up. > >On another shooting subject - has anyone ever tried having a tie breaker >in black powder shooting in which using a flintlock would break the tie >with a percussion, and using fixed sights would break a tie with one >using adjustable sights. This seems inherently fair, and promotes >authentic period shooting. > >If no one has heard of this, maybe I can claim the idea. > >Glenn Darilek >Iron Burner > >BRUCE S. DE LIS wrote: >> Anyone one to comment or explain why you can not achieve such good consis >> tent, accurate with a .50, .54 or Larger Caliber Patched Roundball as you can wi >> th the Smaller .38-.45 Caliber Roundball > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:18:20 -0600 From: "Glenn Darilek" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Caliber & Accuracy Those guys are surely some fine shots, and I am sure they must practice more, and have more God-given talent than most. But the question was "why do they prefer the smaller calibers?" If practice was the only factor, they would shoot the larger calibers as well. Am I wrong about the rules? In effect, the smaller caliber provides a smaller X circle. It would be foolish trying to hit an X circle that was smaller than your caliber. Does the book say anything about this? Glenn Darilek Iron Burner - -----Original Message----- From: Barry Conner > >So as far as looking for an advantage in one cal. over another, size, speed >or whatever, the really super shots, just practice a little more and do not >worry about some of the ideas other shotters are looking at. A book on >shooting muzzleloaders called, "MUZZLE LOADING SHOOTING & WINNING WITH THE >CHAMPIONS" talks about this and more, written by some old timers that have >turned Friendship around with their scores over the years, like >M.Vickery-W.Terry-B.Butcher-W.Grote-B.Carmichael- D.Davis-P.Allan-W.Boughton >to name a few. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 03:03:22 EST From: NaugaMok@aol.com Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Stock Preservation in Dry Heat In a message dated 99-02-08 10:19:40 EST, you write: << First let me say that I live in Dry Heat Phoenix Arizona. May question has to d o with Wooden Rifle Stocks, >> I live in Las Vegas NV, so our climate isn't much different. Ive had excelent luck with oiling my stocks with either Wahkon Bay's "Tru-coat" stock finish or my own version of it. I make mine out of boiled linseed oil & turpentine -- 50 - 50 mix. The "Tru-coat" smells strongly of turpentine & feels like it's got linseed oil in it. The oils you've been using are petroleum based -- a "no - no" on wood. If you make some up, be sure you use real turpentine, not that synthetic crap -- it doesn't work -- I've tried it. This mix is a period combination & still works better than anything else I've found. John Cramer, who posts here regularly, is very knowledgable on wood finishing with the old methods. One of his mixes is equal parts linseed oil, turpentine, & vinegar (cider vinegar preferably) -- & it works well -- again -- I've tried it -- I finished my North Star trade gun with it. He recomends buying raw linseed & boiling your own -- I haven't tried that -- yet. I'd recently gotten some antique wood body wood planes & bringing them out here from NW MO had them starting to crack. A 48 hr soak in his 3 part mix stopped the damage & even tightened up the loose handles. One of these planes was my Great-great Grandad's & it's aproximately 110 yrs old -- I'd have realy hated to see it reduced to a pile of splinters, which was where it was headed. A couple of months ago, I sharpened one of the planes up & tried using it. After I finaly got it set right, it worked better than my metal Stanley. I noticed when sharpening it, it had the typical period blade -- wrought iron with a thin steel layer forge welded to it -- the hard steel layer definitely visable against the iron body. When working with wood, the better finishes are vegetable based, not petroleum. The suggestion of using a guitar humidifier will cause you rusting problems if you don't use rust inhibiting oils on your metal parts & you'll have to be sure your barrel is squeeky clean & oiled after every time you shoot. ANY B/P residue coupled with humidity is almost instant rust -- you can have a severe problem within 24 hrs. When you first get your rifle, oil it down & when it starts to look a little dull, re-oil it. If it's unfinished, that may be as quick as 30 min, but a well oiled stock seems to need a fresh coat about every 4 - 6 months here. You can request an oil finish, & I don't know too many builders who won't comply. After several years, the finish will build up to where it looks like it's a foot deep right after an oiling. IF you get too much oil on it, it'll be a bit tacky after 24 hrs -- no problem -- go over it LIGHTLY with 00 or 000 steel wool. Don't forget to oil the barrel channel & lock mortise at least every 6 months. One thing I realy like about the oil finish is if you get a ding or scratch, just re-oil it & it blends right in. I got a nasty gouge in my favorite rifle stock -- 2 yrs later, the gouge is still there, but it's a finished gouge with the same sheen as the rest of the stock so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb any more. Every rifle & trade gun I have are oil finished. I've even sanded down my Lyman Great Plains & oiled it (also stripped off the bluing & browned all the iron). Since I switched to the oil finish about 8 years ago, I haven't had any dry wood problems. NM ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:29:44 -0500 From: "Scott Janzen" Subject: Re: MtMan-List: Brain Tan Don't worry Matt, the first hide I tanned was a calf hide in the Mojave desert in July. Yes it stinks. I was just waiting for the neighbors to call the police to find the dead body in my garage! I would not recommend doing this activity (in that place during summer). Kid! - -----Original Message----- From: Matt and Sarah Mitchell >They had a definite rotted smell. First question, is this the norm >there is obvious >decomposition starting here.(smells really really bad) > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:58:49 -0500 From: "Scott Janzen" Subject: MtMan-List: Capotes & stuff... Can one of y'all tell me the correct pronunciation of "Capote"? Is it "ka-pote" or "ka-potee"? This has been bugging me for a while... Kid! PS: late winter work continues with the production of outfits. I found a great sale at a fabric store in Manassas on wool. It seems now is the time to buy as the places get rid of their Fall and Winter stockages. Go check it out. PPS: can anyone point me in the direction of coat styles for 1800-1810 St. Louis? I know there could be influences from many styles; American, French, Spanish, Indian... Where might I find some representative pictures of various classes' dress there, then? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 01:13:27 EST From: WSmith4100@aol.com Subject: MtMan-List: trade blanket items I am looking forward to going to rendezvous(my 2nd) again this summer. Iwould like to have a trade blanket ------------------------------ End of hist_text-digest V1 #233 ******************************* - To unsubscribe to hist_text-digest, send an email to "majordomo@xmission.com" with "unsubscribe hist_text-digest" in the body of the message. For information on digests or retrieving files and old messages send "help" to the same address. Do not use quotes in your message.