From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Re: Bars Date: 01 Nov 1998 09:07:04 -0500 Thanks Tony for the information on the Desert bars. I am looking at another set of bars from Renthal with the Renthal #664 bend - little narrower then the Desert bars and less height and rise, pull back about the same. I'm going to post some information on these two bars on the KLR Page soon - a comparison of the two. Thanks for your effort to let us know your expereinces with the Desert bar. It is my understanding that Fred will be stocking the Desert bar soon! Bill Tony wrote: > I think they will have less vibration, atleast this is what renthal claims, > as well does the Scott grips. > My new bars seem to be bent, obvously Im just use to the old bent ones. > They sit lower, but I think that I can live with it. Had a few gotch ya's > while putting them on. Things are ok now. The throttle cables touch the > faring window when I turn all the way to the left. No big deal, they just > touch. I had to do some adjusting of the throttle, brake, and mirror/switch > brackets to get it right. > The factory bars have a hole drilled in them for the left mirror bracket. I > had to file off the nipple from the bracked to get it to fit the bars. > Bottom line, they are better than the bent, fragile, factory bars. They > look better too. > TOny > > Bill wrote: > > > Tony wrote: > > > > > > Renthal desert/Vintage Handlebars are the way to go for your KLR. I > > > just ordered them in tanum, should look choice. These bars are way > > > stronger and are large enough in length and height to be suitable for > > > the KLR. > > > > > > Tony > > Tony, > > > > Do all the cables and wires fit the new bars okay? since they are a > > little wider I thought there might be a problem with them in that > > regard. > > > > do you find them to be comfortable for long road trips? I often spend a > > day or more traveling on my KLR and wonder how they feel after a few > > hours riding? any unusual arm or hand strain? > > > > Please reply to Fred also (in the "cc" header) > > > > Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Bars Date: 01 Nov 1998 08:34:02 -0700 Bill, doesn't Eldon Carl use Jimmy Button Renthal's? I think they are the tallest desert bars Renthal makes...maybe include them in your write-up... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) So.California Listers Get-together Date: 01 Nov 1998 08:37:40 -0700 > Any make/model bikes are welcome. >> >> Redondo Ron > >I will be there. To help keep you honest if nothing else. > >Hiro A10 Thunderbolt >Malibu, California & >Kobe, Japan > > > OK...this is our chance. I have long suspected that Mr. Hiro is an international pseudonym for our cagey Southern Californian...now is the chance to seem them both in person. Course...they could pull a switch like Mrs. Doubtfire....I want witnesses....Let's face it Hiro is the gentleman that Redondo Ron always wanted to be... Kurt A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) ugly aluminum Date: 01 Nov 1998 11:04:11 -0500 Help! How can I get the shine back into my aluminum swingarm and rims. They have a tarnished look to them, I think it was from the cleaning agent I've been using, a citrus based cleaner called "Purple". Help me get back my shine!(So I can Find the bike when its underwater in the swamp!) :-) Robert Florida USA 96 KTM RXC620 93 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Magier Date: 01 Nov 1998 11:55:36 -0800 Hey - I just had a thought while in the "reading room" in my house (where I get most of my inspiration) that I had to share with the list. I dunno, maybe pie-in-the-sky stuff, but here goes: You guys who have been so helpful sharing basic maintenance tips on the list have sometimes gone as far as to include digital pictures. VERY HELPFUL!! Now, what about the next big leap? For some of the trickier stuff (valves, carb basics, clutch disassembly) would you consider VIDEO!!! I for one would be happy to part with some of my hard-earned $$ to learn how to do some of the more advanced maintenance on my baby with a little less fear of the unknown. In an ideal world, we would all have big brothers or neighbors who are bike mechanics, so we could sort of "apprentice" with them. But, in the real world, I'm probably not going to be very happy taking off my valve cover if I haven't seen it done before. BUT, if I've seen the process on video, that's a whole different kettle of fish. There's a saying in medical school: "see one, do one, teach one". I think we all know from wrenching experience how true that is. Once you've seen something done, there's a great deal more confidence to try it. And, once you've done something successfully, there's a lot more confidence to explain it to others. Well, just had to put in my idea, and let it sink or float on its own. Anyone else willing to put up a little $ for some how-to's from our more esteemed listers? Mike Magier 98A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck Subject: (klr650) Re: your mail, NKLR Date: 01 Nov 1998 14:10:42 -0700 (MST) On Sun, 1 Nov 1998, Mike Magier wrote: > Hey - I just had a thought while in the "reading room" in my house (where I > get most of my inspiration) that I had to share with the list. I dunno, > maybe pie-in-the-sky stuff, but here goes: > > You guys who have been so helpful sharing basic maintenance tips on the list > have sometimes gone as far as to include digital pictures. VERY HELPFUL!! > Now, what about the next big leap? For some of the trickier stuff (valves, > carb basics, clutch disassembly) would you consider VIDEO!!! > Mike, Great idea, however producing video is pricey. I've been in the video business for over 10 years, presently working at a PBS station but spent over 6 years doing technical training and safety videos for companies like John Deere and Miller Brewing. Typical projects averaged around $10,000 for 5 to 10 minute programs. Yes, video prices are dropping but I'd still think for a decent usable program you're going to have to spend at least $5,000. And a word of warning, everytime a new client came in and got sticker shock, there reply would be something like, "Well my wife's nephew has a video camera, he can do it much cheaper." Everytime I saw the finished product it looked like someone's nephew did it (read awful and unuseable). Average prices for a videotape run $10 to $20 so you're going to need close to 500 people to make back the investment (using my seat of the pants numbers). I don't want to shoot down your idea just let you know some of the reality. Jeff Moorbeck '89 KLR 650 Tucson, AZ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr650) Product review update : Helicopter driver gloves Date: 01 Nov 1998 15:44:21 -0700 Update due to brainfade: that was supposed to be NOMEX, not spandex. sorry bruixot@rmi.net wrote: > At a recent visit to the PX at Fort Carson, I discovered an interesting glove > article with KLR highway ops in mind: summerweight gloves for military > helicopter drivers, for about $17.80. Leather palms, and a sort of tough spandex > back. Extremely nice fitting. > > Not everyone will be able to shop at Military Clothing Sales stores, but these > items may become available from commercial outlets before long. > > On the other hand (pun intended) it may be awhile before I can test them in > temperate climates: it's snowing here in Black Forest (Colorado) right now. > > dr robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR sex, lies, and videotape Date: 01 Nov 1998 15:54:38 -0700 Mike Magier wrote:... sharing basic maintenance tips on the list have sometimes gone as far as to include digital pictures. VERY HELPFUL!! would you consider VIDEO......... ANS: What a coincidence. Last week I arranged with local dealer mechanic to do a video of 1000-mile service and valve check/adjustment on a 98 KLR650. I plan to use a Sony Hi8 video camera. If it turns out decently, I'll let y'all know. -- dr robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "rg" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Parts List Date: 01 Nov 1998 17:06:01 -0600 -----Original Message----- >Hello Kmart Shoppers, .. . . If I get enough requests then I >might as well just put it on the list. Please do and/or send it to me. Thanks. Robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) BMW V.I.P.S positive comments on the KLR Date: 01 Nov 1998 17:04:34 +0000 Yesterday I received my copy of BMWON. The magazine of the BMWMotorcycleOwners of America. Jeff Dean's article talks of owning 11 motorcycles. 11 BMWs , but he adds one more. A KLR 650 to which he says: .." a fine, powerful, versatile, and light dual purpose bike with a giant gas tank. ........" This from a card carrying Beemerphile. Incidently, the F650 was NOT among his 11 BMW choices. I also read somewhere (Here?) that Helge Pedersen of "10Years on Two heels" fame mentions that upon seeing a heavily laden KLR that he often wished that he had a KLR during the journey. I also have relayed a message about Frank Campbell, currently in Colombia with his trouble free 22,000 mile KLR, who previously rode a R100GS to Tierra del Fuego. He chose a KLR. Our bike choice has, and is garnering more, respect around the moto community. I am pretty happy with my A12. Sure it needs a little improvemnt here and there. Show me a bike that doesn't! WE OWN GREAT BIKES! Alex :-) Jomarron Oak Park, IL 88 BMW K75S 98 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR sex, lies, and videotape Date: 01 Nov 1998 17:08:34 +0000 re: Dr Robert;s home made video. I'm a customer of the video! Of course sales may be more brisk if you throw in the infamous Pamela Lee video too! ;-) Alex in Oak Park ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) BMW V.I.P.S positive comments on the KLR Date: 01 Nov 1998 18:14:34 EST In a message dated 98-11-01 18:06:36 EST, alex319@IDT.NET writes: << . Jeff Dean's article talks of owning 11 motorcycles. 11 BMWs , but he adds one more. A KLR 650 to which he says: .." a fine, powerful, versatile, and light dual purpose bike with a giant >> The guy has no imagination. 11 BMWs shows his commitment to the marque, not to the sport of motorcycling. I could come up with a much more impressive list, but since I can only afford 2 motorcycles, I go with my R100RS with 10 gal tank and my KLR Tengai. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Magier Subject: (klr650) Parts List Date: 01 Nov 1998 15:25:03 -0800 > THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. --Next_Part_2992778703_5906253_MS_Mac_IMN Content-type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit >Hello Kmart Shoppers, .. . . If I get enough requests then I >might as well just put it on the list. Let me add my name to the ranks of those who seek . .. Umm, I mean, please send and/or post the parts list, Fred. Thanks. Mike Magier 98A12 --Next_Part_2992778703_5906253_MS_Mac_IMN Content-type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Parts List >Hello Kmart Shoppers, .. . . If I get enough requests then I
>might as well just put it on the list.
Let me add my name to the ranks of those who seek . ..

Umm, I mean, please send and/or post the parts list, Fred. Thanks.
Mike Magier
98A12 --Next_Part_2992778703_5906253_MS_Mac_IMN-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Daniel L. Hill" Subject: (klr650) Hard Starting Date: 01 Nov 1998 19:50:18 -0600 My 1997 KLR650 is getting hard to start after about 5K miles. I changed to a K&N Filter, put in a new NGK Plug, and fuel filter, but she still has trouble starting even when warmed up. I am checking into the www.dynojet.com carb kit. The jet kit is more in my budget, but they have a complete carb replacement. Do you think this will solve the hard starting problem? She does seem to be running a little lean because I have to keep to choke on a while when I first crank her up. I have checked for intake leaks and other possible villains with no luck. Thanks for any suggestion. Daniel Hill Hampton Roads, Virginia dlhill@visi.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Hard Starting Date: 01 Nov 1998 17:38:44 -0800 Dan run some "Techron" through it. You might just have a load of carbon on the back side of your intake valves. I am usually not a big believer of miracle fix in a bottle, however this stuff is great. I ran a bottle through my 71 scout with 130k on it, three days later I had a different car. Six bucks at pep boys, whataya got to loose. This stuff is particularly effective in states with mtbe in the fuel. I have had brand new cars towed in to my service dept. flooded because of mtbe. Check it out. Morgan Carlsbad Ca. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Roundr1@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650)-digest V1 #339 (So.Cal Listers Got-together) Date: 01 Nov 1998 22:00:51 EST >Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 08:37:40 -0700 >From: "Kurt Simpson" >Subject: Re: (klr650) So.California Listers Get-together >OK...this is our chance. I have long suspected that Mr. Hiro is an international >pseudonym for our cagey Southern Californian...now is the chance to seem them >both in person. Course...they could pull a switch like Mrs. Doubtfire....I want >witnesses....Let's face it Hiro is the gentleman that Redondo Ron always wanted >to be... > >Kurt A12 5 KLRs, one DR and 7 riders showed up. The transplanted Scots from West LA, Jim and his SO showed us all how it's done on a DR...and while riding 2 up! We passed though some of the finest forested dirt trails and twisted canyons I've ever seen. Many thanks to all of you for showing me another side of my state. You're right Kurt. Hiro is a great guy. Quite the gentleman. He was very patient with me. On the other hand I thought I detected a subtle sneer through Redondo Ron's helmet whenever I screwed up. Oh well he did buy me a beer. Jim from Palmdale and Darrel from Oxnard both got pictures of us on the ride. Maybe one of them will post some photos for us. John O. (Digester) Rolling Hills, California ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Hiro Date: 01 Nov 1998 19:08:11 -0800 Another allusion to a military aircraft. This Hiro guy is right down my alley! Too bad he didn't show up. Ron- I suspect that you pulled off at the Gorman exit to install your sound attenuators. No? Darrel A12 Avenger SoCal Gold Coast ******************* I will be there. To help keep you honest if nothing else. Hiro A10 Thunderbolt Malibu, California & Kobe, Japan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) BMW V.I.P.S positive comments on the KLR Date: 01 Nov 1998 20:33:06 -0700 > I also have relayed a message about Frank Campbell, currently in Colombia with his trouble free 22,000 > mile KLR, who previously rode a R100GS to Tierra del Fuego. He chose a KLR. Don't mean to start any more brand/model loyalty arguments, but I was in touch with Frank a while ago, and I believe that he is opting for a BMW F650 for his coming round-the-world trip. He mentioned something about better international supportability and infrastructure. Perhaps one of the KLR faithful will team up with him and show that the killer is the Funduro's match. I'm taking a 1997 KLR650 to Tierra del Fuego this December, starting in central Chile. Anybody wanna go with? FWIW - dr robert "Ride long and hard and fast, dammit, and take no prisoners." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) BMW V.I.P.S positive comments on the KLR Date: 01 Nov 1998 22:35:51 EST In a message dated 11/1/98 8:30:54 PM Mountain Standard Time, bruixot@rmi.net writes: << BMW F650 for his coming round-the-world trip. >> Helge also has a F650. He will quietly tell you that he prefers it over his R1100GS, which was given to him by BMW so that Olga, his R80GS, could be put in the museum in Munich. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) BMW KLR miles Date: 01 Nov 1998 23:10:19 EST Let's face it. Any motorcycle built for the consumer market (not racing) after, say 1975, should be technically capable of 100,000 miles. I am not impressed with a KLR that has hit 25,000. It ought to be able to hit at least 50,000 without major mechanical repairs. Sure, tough use decreases the longivity of components IF they are not designed for that use. I'd like to know who has some high miles on their KLRs. I have surpassed 100,000 on my street BMW. Well cared for, Easy miles in the sense that they were all street, though not all highway. And it took 17 years to get to 100,000. Now I am working on building miles on the KLR -- I find it is more fun to use than the BMW and the BMW rests in the garage. How many miles does it take until the KLR feels the miles? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) RE: supportability & infrastucture Date: 01 Nov 1998 22:13:29 +0000 bruixot@rmi.net wrote: > He mentioned something about better international supportability and infrastructure. Perhaps > one of the KLR faithful will team up with him and show that the killer is the Funduro's match. I don't believe that to be true. For example, the 19" front tire on the Funduro was difficult to find in South America because it is a BMW oddity. I also would believe that the number of BMW dealers worldwide are fewer and further between. At least the further between part! I DO believe that ANY well maintained bike would be able to complete a world journey. A catastrophic breakdown will be a drag regardless of what you ride. Finally, maybe I'm stubborn, but I don't think anyone can convince me that the F650 is worth the difference in price of the KLR. I can see shelling out the bucks for KTM Adventure, but the F650? Just what do you get for your extra $3,000???? Despite how it appears, I am NOT trying to brand bash. This is just my opinion, which is......actually worthless! Alex in Oak Park 88 BMW K75S <--- which I LOVE 98 KLR 650 <-----which I also LOVE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: BMW KLR miles Date: 01 Nov 1998 23:27:30 EST In a message dated 11/1/98 9:10:19 PM Mountain Standard Time, Ztib writes: << Well cared for, Easy miles in the sense that they were all street, though not all highway. And it took 17 years to get to 100,000. Now I am working on building miles on the KLR -- I find it is more fun to use than the BMW and the BMW rests in the garage. >> I have only heard from a handful of folks who have taken their KLR's over 70K miles. I don't think it is the fault of the bike, but more the rider. Unfortunately, the already low price of a KLR becomes even lower at trade in and resale time and makes the bike seem disposable to some folks and they simply ride them with little if any PM done on them. Owners of higher ticket bikes tend to keep their investment in tip-top shape, however. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: supportability & infrastucture Date: 01 Nov 1998 23:38:30 EST In a message dated 98-11-01 23:15:04 EST, alex319@IDT.NET writes: << Finally, maybe I'm stubborn, but I don't think anyone can convince me that the F650 is worth the difference in price of the KLR. I can see shelling out the bucks for KTM Adventure, but the F650? Just what do you get for your extra $3,000??? >> The F650 is worth the $3,000 more only if the BMW stickers on it are worth $3,000. And they are not. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J. Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: BMW KLR miles Date: 02 Nov 1998 00:04:43 -0500 K650dsn@aol.com wrote: > the already low price of a KLR becomes even lower at trade in >and resale time and makes the bike seem disposable to some folks and >they simply ride them with little if any PM done on them. Owners of >higher ticket bikes tend to keep their investment in tip-top shape After recently combing the No.FLA countryside with my brother, searching for him a new DS ride, its safe to say that MOST ANY DS suffers this fate. I can't begin to tell you how many ill maintained/repaired KLR/KLX's we came across as well as DR, XT, TT, XR....But never a cheap GS or Katoom, no sir. Jake in Jacksonville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rex Hefferan Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Re: Helicopter driver gloves Date: 01 Nov 1998 21:18:36 -0800 (PST) Robert, Are those gauntlet lenght? I have a pair of military pilot gloves that fit that description except for the colors. (gray leather with O.D. nomex) The black would be a much more generic look. Rex, A7 _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ian Ellison Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #336 Date: 02 Nov 1998 12:00:13 -0000 I'm sure someone slipped that extra digit in there when I wasn't looking! Make that thirty thousand miles! Ian Ellison Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info > Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:13:24 -0500 > From: James Naus > Subject: RE: (klr650) Everything's relative.... > > Wow, you are the Man or that was a typo. > > James > Tallahassee, Fl > '95 KLX650C (still not runnin' but I finally got the fundin') > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ian Ellison [SMTP:ie@grolier.co.uk] > > Sent: Friday, October 30, 1998 4:39 AM > > To: klr650@lists.xmission.com > > Subject: (klr650) Everything's relative.... > > > > > > I have been riding the Tengai for nearly 3 years and over 320,000 miles > > now > > so I have pretty much got used to it being "just so". > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Starting points Date: 02 Nov 1998 04:19:57 PST >I'm taking a 1997 KLR650 to Tierra del Fuego this December, starting in central Chile. Anybody wanna go with? Why don't you start in Anchorage? The more miles the better! Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rcklr@aol.com Subject: Fwd: (klr650) Starting points Date: 02 Nov 1998 07:38:37 EST This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_910010317_boundary Content-ID: <0_910010317@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII In a message dated 11/2/98 7:23:15 AM EST, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: << >I'm taking a 1997 KLR650 to Tierra del Fuego this December, starting in central Chile. Anybody wanna go with? Why don't you start in Anchorage? The more miles the better! Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" >> Juan, Not starting in Alaska for the same reason I put my bike away in Minnesota this time of year. December would not be the ideal time to head south from Alaska. Unless you start south from San Fransico or something.... (Hey man, just jerkin' the chain a little, keep on smilin'!!) :-) MN Ron --part0_910010317_boundary Content-ID: <0_910010317@inet_out.mail.hotmail.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-yc05.mail.aol.com (rly-yc05.mail.aol.com [172.18.149.37]) by air-yc04.mail.aol.com (v51.9) with SMTP; Mon, 02 Nov 1998 07:23:15 -0500 Received: from lists.xmission.com (lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7]) by rly-yc05.mail.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0) with ESMTP id HAA28483; Mon, 2 Nov 1998 07:22:53 -0500 (EST) Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zaIy7-0005Jx-00 for klr650-goout@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 2 Nov 1998 05:20:23 -0700 Received: from [207.82.250.94] (helo=hotmail.com) by lists.xmission.com with smtp (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zaIy4-0005D0-00 for KLR650@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 2 Nov 1998 05:20:20 -0700 Received: (qmail 886 invoked by uid 65534); 2 Nov 1998 12:19:58 -0000 Message-ID: <19981102121958.884.qmail@hotmail.com> Received: from 132.59.120.11 by www.hotmail.com with HTTP; Mon, 02 Nov 1998 04:19:57 PST X-Originating-IP: [132.59.120.11] Cc: KLR650@lists.xmission.com Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Juan Villarreal" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit >I'm taking a 1997 KLR650 to Tierra del Fuego this December, starting in central Chile. Anybody wanna go with? Why don't you start in Anchorage? The more miles the better! Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com --part0_910010317_boundary-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mark Subject: (klr650) Top end inspection Date: 02 Nov 1998 09:10:47 -0500 Hi Folks, Yesterday I finally checked the valve clearances (15,000 miles). The inlet valves are well within spec, but the exhaust valves are both at their limits in opposite directions. However, the bike runs great but with a tiny high pitched tap that seems to be comming from the top end. I suspect the loose valve. I'll swap exhaust shims over Christmas. Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, but I NEVER used THAT size for ANYTHING in my life (After 10 years of working on SAABs). The big concern for me is that the 17mm seems to be trying to grab the plug, but the clearance between the plug and the head recess looks pretty narrow. Is there a special plug wrench with thin walls made especially for this bike? Thanks, Mark ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Lance Rushing Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection Date: 02 Nov 1998 08:10:25 -0800 (PST) On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size plugs in it (I think). Lance A11 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James Naus Subject: RE: (klr650) Top end inspection Date: 02 Nov 1998 11:17:41 -0500 Use the tool it the tool kit. James Tallahassee, FL '95 KLX650C > -----Original Message----- > From: Lance Rushing [SMTP:rushing@rohan.sdsu.edu] > Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:10 AM > To: Mark > Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection > > > > On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > > > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good > > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I > use?? > > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried > a > > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big > > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with > 18mm, > > You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I > think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size > plugs in it (I think). > > Lance > A11 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: RE: (klr650) Top end inspection Date: 02 Nov 1998 11:55:27 -0500 I got my '90 Tengai last year, sans tool kit. But, now that you mention it, I'll see if my wife's XT250 tool kit has a socket that works. Thanks, Mark At 11:17 AM 11/2/98, James Naus wrote: >Use the tool it the tool kit. > >James >Tallahassee, FL >'95 KLX650C > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Lance Rushing [SMTP:rushing@rohan.sdsu.edu] >> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:10 AM >> To: Mark >> Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com >> Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection >> >> >> >> On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: >> >> > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good >> > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I >> use?? >> > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried >> a >> > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big >> > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with >> 18mm, >> >> You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I >> think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size >> plugs in it (I think). >> >> Lance >> A11 >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements Date: 02 Nov 1998 13:05:06 -0700 KLR electrics: One of the common concerns with KLRs is the occasional tendency to blow fuses for no obvious reason. Some of these events appear to be due to bad connections and surges not adequately controlled by the voltage regulator . This is an area where the KLR could use some improvement in design and construction. For the EE types among us, please jump in and correct/comment where necessary. There is a device called a Polyswitch (a UL recognized device), which performs the function of a circuit breaker but requires no reset. Instead, when the device heats up due to overcurrent/overvoltage, it pops (breaks) but when it cools down, it automatically resets. This provides the needed protection and can be inserted in the space currently allocated to the MickeyMouse stock fuse block. The unit cost of these items is less than US$2.00 . Typical size is 1.1 x 0.4 inches. Of course, this means that you have a take a short period to cool down the polyswitch. Probably less time than you would take getting to the fuses, and more time than if you had mounted a more expensive set of switch/circuit breakers on the bike somewhere. If the list will allow naming a supplier (there are many) -- Digikey 1-800-344-4539 Some FAQ: http://circuitprotection.raychem.com/faqansrs7.html Sample: P/N RUE800 ND: max volt cap without damage = 30 V (didn't specify VAC or VDC) presumably it will handle either max current: 40 amps max current at which will not trip (Hold Current): 8 amps at 20 degrees C. minimum current at which it will always trip: 16 amps at 20 degrees C. Initial resistance: 0.02 ohms Price per unit: US$1.20 OK, experimenters, let's test and report to the list! Or some brave EE-type might make the correct selection for the KLR, package the best two Polyswitches for the KLR fuse block circuits, and sell them to us. Or do you want me to do it?? We will need some experimenting and expert advice, first. dr robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hugh Stout Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection Date: 02 Nov 1998 10:27:57 -0800 At 08:10 AM 11/2/98 -0800, Lance Rushing wrote: > > >On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > >> Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good >> idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? >> It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a >> 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big >> (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, > >You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I >think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size >plugs in it (I think). > >Lance >A11 > A 3/4" plug socket - less common than 13/16 or 5/8 but I had one - works well enough, too. Hugh Stout '74 R90/6 '78 CB400T2 '94 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Linus Subject: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Date: 03 Nov 1998 08:07:21 +0800 Hi Listers, Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared to the KLR650.Or will the bolt to bolt end lengths of the shocks suffice in order to match them? Thanks in advance Linus ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Polston, Doug" Subject: (klr650) KLR vs. Tengai? Date: 02 Nov 1998 18:42:43 -0600 > Tengai 90. Does anyone have picture of a Tengai? I dont think I have ever seen one. Doug Kansas ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J. Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR vs. Tengai? Date: 02 Nov 1998 20:39:42 -0500 Polston, Doug wrote: > > > Tengai 90. > Does anyone have picture of a Tengai? I dont think I have ever seen one. > Doug > Kansas Try this link. It was posted months back from a fellow lister (sprry I don't remember who or I'd credit the appropriate source.) http://www.ne.su.se/~cw/dvm/tengai.jpg also try this one for some good drooling http://www.ne.su.se/~cw/dvm/ For some more pics visit Florida Frank's page. http://home.att.net/~flafrank/ Enjoy! Jake in Jacksonville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements Date: 02 Nov 1998 20:45:34 -0700 > >This is an area where the KLR could use some improvement >in design and construction. > >There is a device called a Polyswitch (a UL recognized device), which >performs the function of a circuit breaker but requires no reset. >Instead, >when the device heats up due to overcurrent/overvoltage, it pops >(breaks) >but when it cools down, it automatically resets. > >US$2.00 . Typical size is 1.1 x 0.4 inches. > >Of course, this means that you have a take a short period to cool >down the polyswitch. Probably less time than you would take getting >to the fuses, and more time than if you had mounted a more expensive >set of switch/circuit breakers on the bike somewhere. >>> >dr robert Dr. Robert, The type of breakers you`re referring to are called "Trip-free" breakers, and were originally designed to be used in non-monitored, non critical electrical situations where constant automatic resetting of a circuit does not constitute a danger and damage to the circuit is not a serious factor. They could be used as replacements for the fuses, but for two dollars more you could have aircraft quality re-Seattle only (not pullable) circuit breakers designed to last years of trouble free service. In my earlier post, I mentioned the pullable breakers because of the option of breaking the circuit when needed, as in testing the system when engine is running. When I`m off-road, I can now pull my light breaker and keep the drain on my system lower when needed. Those type are around $12 each, but it has been a rare occasion for me to have to replace one on an aircraft that has not been at least 10 years old. As I originally posted, my first blown fuse was at night and I did this mod for the sole purpose (and laziness) of being able to immediately reach down with my left hand and reset my light breaker without having to pull over in traffic, with no lights, praying that people see me and pull off the panels and seat to get to the stupid fuse that I MIGHT not have replaced from the last blow out. The new style aviation pullable breakers are designed to be pulled frequently, as many are used in switch applications. Don`t get me wrong, Polyswitches have definite applications, it`s just that I have never liked trip free breakers because of the cool down time and I prefer a higher quality of operating perimeters than Polyswitches offer. Like I said earlier, for $2 more, you could have quality circuit breakers with tighter calibrations, but if the $2 is a factor, I would definitely choose the Polyswitches over the stock fuses. Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Date: 02 Nov 1998 23:15:04 EST In a message dated 11/2/98 5:17:09 PM Mountain Standard Time, linus@sem.my.sony.com.sg writes: << Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared to the KLR650. >> Tengai's not only have a shorter shock, but it is a better quality unit also. They will bolt straight into a KLR, but you will have to lower the front to get the geometry back in sync. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 02 Nov 1998 23:05:48 -0600 (CST) Hey Guys, After falling behind schedule, I finally went to pull the cylinder out of my bike only to find that the thing won't budge at all. As you may recall I pulled the head without a problem, I figured that would be harder than pulling the cylinder, but that thing seems to be glued on. I looked for any bolts holding it down, but the service manual only names the three that I removed. Does anyone have any sugestions? Thanks, Carlos ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: KLR sex, lies, and videotape Date: 02 Nov 1998 21:39:20 -0800 If it is any good, I'd like to buy or borrow it! Rob C. -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR650 List >Mike Magier wrote:... sharing basic maintenance tips on the list have sometimes >gone as far as to include digital pictures. VERY HELPFUL!! would you consider >VIDEO......... > >ANS: What a coincidence. Last week I arranged with local dealer mechanic to >do a video of 1000-mile service and valve check/adjustment on a 98 KLR650. I >plan to use a Sony Hi8 video camera. If it turns out decently, I'll let y'all >know. > >-- dr robert > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) BMW V.I.P.S positive comments on the KLR Date: 02 Nov 1998 21:41:36 -0800 Thanks for the great comments! Rob C. -----Original Message----- >Yesterday I received my copy of BMWON. The magazine of the BMWMotorcycleOwners of >America. Jeff Dean's article talks of owning 11 motorcycles. 11 BMWs , but he adds one more. A >KLR 650 to which he says: .." a fine, powerful, versatile, and light dual purpose bike with a giant >gas tank. ........" This from a card carrying Beemerphile. Incidently, the F650 was NOT among his >11 BMW choices. > >I also read somewhere (Here?) that Helge Pedersen of "10Years on Two heels" fame mentions >that upon seeing a heavily laden KLR that he often wished that he had a KLR during the >journey. > >I also have relayed a message about Frank Campbell, currently in Colombia with his trouble free >22,000 mile KLR, who previously rode a R100GS to Tierra del Fuego. He chose a KLR. > >Our bike choice has, and is garnering more, respect around the moto community. I am pretty >happy with my A12. Sure it needs a little improvemnt here and there. Show me a bike that >doesn't! > >WE OWN GREAT BIKES! > >Alex :-) Jomarron >Oak Park, IL >88 BMW K75S >98 KLR 650 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR torque wrench Date: 02 Nov 1998 23:12:19 -0700 >> >>>I completely agree! I use nothing but Snap-On torque wrenches. They are >>>more money but well worth it. Where would I get mine recalibrated? I >>>suppose Snap-On would do it. >> >> >>Fred >>Fred and List, >> For those wanting to have their torque wrenches properly calibrated, I`ll >>post the addresses and phone numbers of two companies that I use for my >>aircraft wrenches. These companies calibrate all measurement sensitive >>tools. >> Their prices are less than half of what Snap >On >>charges (Snap On, $89) and have a quicker turn around time. >> >> >> Skip (who tries not to torque others off) >> >> >> > >OK I'll bite. What are those addess' and phone #? > >Fred Fred and List, Sorry to be so tardy in response to the above post. For those wanting their torque wrenches and or micrometers,dial indicators,calipers, height gages,depth micrometers and pressure gages, the following company is the best deal around. They cater to the aerospace industry, but will calibrate and certify equipment from the general public also. Be sure when mailing your instrument in, to package it well and include a note with your name, address, phone number and what you want done. This company also calibrates the equipment for other calibration companies, so if some of you have master calibrators, they can also certify those. The price is $25 per unit and if requested, will issue a calibration correction card. All items will be tagged and identified with a certificate of calibration with traceability to the National Institute of Standard Technology. If repairs are needed, that charge is separate and will be quoted. Turnaround time is one to two days. Advanced Aviation Inc. 16801 McCandless Lane Council Bluffs, IA. 51503 Telephone: 712-323-2173 p.s. On an earlier post this evening, my wife had that darn spell checker on and it didn`t recognize the word "resetable" and replaced it with Seattle. p.s.s. I bet Fred thought this was a joke and thought I was going to give the address of the Mustang Ranch, to get his torque wrench calibrated. Skip (who doesn`t need Spell Check to to confuse others, he does quite well on his own ) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: (klr650) klr650 re: oil change/ filter check Date: 02 Nov 1998 23:47:35 -0700 List, I`ve seen a lot of posts about oil and filters lately and want to throw in a quick little tidbit. When you change your oil next time, before throwing away the filter, take a hack saw and cut against the top plate of the filter till you hit the center core. Do this at both ends, like your trying to cut the ends of the filter off, but stop when you hit metal, cut only the paper and do this all the way around on both ends. Then pull the pleated part off the frame and spread the pleats so as to get a good look at the recesses. I do this on aircraft every day and the presence of metal is what you`re looking for. This filter inspection is standard operating procedure on all aircraft and has saved thousands of engines by detecting a potential failure. If you can see in the pleats well enough without cutting the paper element off, then fine, but you can see better with it spread. I`ve been doing this on my bikes for years and on two occasions I was able to head off serious engine damage before it was too late. You can also have periodic oil analysis done for $15 and doing this occasionally will help you keep a trend analysis on the internal wear of your engine. Just my 3 cents. Skip (who needs another type of analysis) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 03 Nov 1998 06:49:10 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Hey Guys, > >After falling behind schedule, I finally went to pull the cylinder out of >my bike only to find that the thing won't budge at all. As you may recall >I pulled the head without a problem, I figured that would be harder than >pulling the cylinder, but that thing seems to be glued on. I looked for >any bolts holding it down, but the service manual only names the three >that I removed. Does anyone have any sugestions? > >Thanks, >Carlos > > > Carlos, If you have double checked to make sure that all the bolts and nuts are off then I would take the heel of your hand and give your cylinder a good rap from the side. That should free the seal of the base gasket. If you are lucky the base gasket won't break and you can reuse it again, sealing it with a thin film of grease. If the base gasket is really stuck you may need to smack it with a soft mallet from the side. I use a plastic mallet or if it is not budging I get out "big bertha" (3lb lead sledge) You should never pry on any gasket surfaces as you will most likely damage the surface. Did you get that gasket scraper yet? Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave Friese Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #341 Date: 03 Nov 1998 07:06:52 -0700 Spark plug socket should be in tool kit ! >>> klr650-digest 11/02 11:17 PM >>> klr650-digest Monday, November 2 1998 Volume 01 : Number 341 Hi Folks, Yesterday I finally checked the valve clearances (15,000 miles). The inlet valves are well within spec, but the exhaust valves are both at their limits in opposite directions. However, the bike runs great but with a tiny high pitched tap that seems to be comming from the top end. I suspect the loose valve. I'll swap exhaust shims over Christmas. Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, but I NEVER used THAT size for ANYTHING in my life (After 10 years of working on SAABs). The big concern for me is that the 17mm seems to be trying to grab the plug, but the clearance between the plug and the head recess looks pretty narrow. Is there a special plug wrench with thin walls made especially for this bike? Thanks, Mark On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size plugs in it (I think). Lance A11 Use the tool it the tool kit. James Tallahassee, FL '95 KLX650C > -----Original Message----- > From: Lance Rushing [SMTP:rushing@rohan.sdsu.edu] > Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:10 AM > To: Mark > Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection > > > > On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > > > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good > > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I > use?? > > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried > a > > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big > > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with > 18mm, > > You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I > think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size > plugs in it (I think). > > Lance > A11 > I got my '90 Tengai last year, sans tool kit. But, now that you mention it, I'll see if my wife's XT250 tool kit has a socket that works. Thanks, Mark At 11:17 AM 11/2/98, James Naus wrote: >Use the tool it the tool kit. > >James >Tallahassee, FL >'95 KLX650C > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Lance Rushing [SMTP:rushing@rohan.sdsu.edu] >> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:10 AM >> To: Mark >> Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com >> Subject: Re: (klr650) Top end inspection >> >> >> >> On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: >> >> > Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good >> > idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I >> use?? >> > It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried >> a >> > 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big >> > (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with >> 18mm, >> >> You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I >> think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size >> plugs in it (I think). >> >> Lance >> A11 >> KLR electrics: One of the common concerns with KLRs is the occasional tendency to blow fuses for no obvious reason. Some of these events appear to be due to bad connections and surges not adequately controlled by the voltage regulator . This is an area where the KLR could use some improvement in design and construction. For the EE types among us, please jump in and correct/comment where necessary. There is a device called a Polyswitch (a UL recognized device), which performs the function of a circuit breaker but requires no reset. Instead, when the device heats up due to overcurrent/overvoltage, it pops (breaks) but when it cools down, it automatically resets. This provides the needed protection and can be inserted in the space currently allocated to the MickeyMouse stock fuse block. The unit cost of these items is less than US$2.00 . Typical size is 1.1 x 0.4 inches. Of course, this means that you have a take a short period to cool down the polyswitch. Probably less time than you would take getting to the fuses, and more time than if you had mounted a more expensive set of switch/circuit breakers on the bike somewhere. If the list will allow naming a supplier (there are many) -- Digikey 1-800-344-4539 Some FAQ: http://circuitprotection.raychem.com/faqansrs7.html Sample: P/N RUE800 ND: max volt cap without damage = 30 V (didn't specify VAC or VDC) presumably it will handle either max current: 40 amps max current at which will not trip (Hold Current): 8 amps at 20 degrees C. minimum current at which it will always trip: 16 amps at 20 degrees C. Initial resistance: 0.02 ohms Price per unit: US$1.20 OK, experimenters, let's test and report to the list! Or some brave EE-type might make the correct selection for the KLR, package the best two Polyswitches for the KLR fuse block circuits, and sell them to us. Or do you want me to do it?? We will need some experimenting and expert advice, first. dr robert At 08:10 AM 11/2/98 -0800, Lance Rushing wrote: > > >On Mon, 2 Nov 1998, Mark wrote: > >> Anyway, while I had the tank and stuff off, I thought it would be a good >> idea to check the spark plug. The problem is, what size wrench do I use?? >> It's an NGK plug. I tried a "standard" plug socket...too small. I tried a >> 16mm and 17mm and they seemed too small too. The 19mm was way too big >> (wouldn't fit in the head recess). I guess that would leave me with 18mm, > >You are right, it's 18mm. I just use a plain ole 18mm deep socket, I >think I picked it up at Napa a few years back. My BMW had the same size >plugs in it (I think). > >Lance >A11 > A 3/4" plug socket - less common than 13/16 or 5/8 but I had one - works well enough, too. Hugh Stout '74 R90/6 '78 CB400T2 '94 KLR650 Hi Listers, Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared to the KLR650.Or will the bolt to bolt end lengths of the shocks suffice in order to match them? Thanks in advance Linus > Tengai 90. Does anyone have picture of a Tengai? I dont think I have ever seen one. Doug Kansas Polston, Doug wrote: > > > Tengai 90. > Does anyone have picture of a Tengai? I dont think I have ever seen one. > Doug > Kansas Try this link. It was posted months back from a fellow lister (sprry I don't remember who or I'd credit the appropriate source.) http://www.ne.su.se/~cw/dvm/tengai.jpg also try this one for some good drooling http://www.ne.su.se/~cw/dvm/ For some more pics visit Florida Frank's page. http://home.att.net/~flafrank/ Enjoy! Jake in Jacksonville > >This is an area where the KLR could use some improvement >in design and construction. > >There is a device called a Polyswitch (a UL recognized device), which >performs the function of a circuit breaker but requires no reset. >Instead, >when the device heats up due to overcurrent/overvoltage, it pops >(breaks) >but when it cools down, it automatically resets. > >US$2.00 . Typical size is 1.1 x 0.4 inches. > >Of course, this means that you have a take a short period to cool >down the polyswitch. Probably less time than you would take getting >to the fuses, and more time than if you had mounted a more expensive >set of switch/circuit breakers on the bike somewhere. >>> >dr robert Dr. Robert, The type of breakers you`re referring to are called "Trip-free" breakers, and were originally designed to be used in non-monitored, non critical electrical situations where constant automatic resetting of a circuit does not constitute a danger and damage to the circuit is not a serious factor. They could be used as replacements for the fuses, but for two dollars more you could have aircraft quality re-Seattle only (not pullable) circuit breakers designed to last years of trouble free service. In my earlier post, I mentioned the pullable breakers because of the option of breaking the circuit when needed, as in testing the system when engine is running. When I`m off-road, I can now pull my light breaker and keep the drain on my system lower when needed. Those type are around $12 each, but it has been a rare occasion for me to have to replace one on an aircraft that has not been at least 10 years old. As I originally posted, my first blown fuse was at night and I did this mod for the sole purpose (and laziness) of being able to immediately reach down with my left hand and reset my light breaker without having to pull over in traffic, with no lights, praying that people see me and pull off the panels and seat to get to the stupid fuse that I MIGHT not have replaced from the last blow out. The new style aviation pullable breakers are designed to be pulled frequently, as many are used in switch applications. Don`t get me wrong, Polyswitches have definite applications, it`s just that I have never liked trip free breakers because of the cool down time and I prefer a higher quality of operating perimeters than Polyswitches offer. Like I said earlier, for $2 more, you could have quality circuit breakers with tighter calibrations, but if the $2 is a factor, I would definitely choose the Polyswitches over the stock fuses. Skip In a message dated 11/2/98 5:17:09 PM Mountain Standard Time, linus@sem.my.sony.com.sg writes: << Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared to the KLR650. >> Tengai's not only have a shorter shock, but it is a better quality unit also. They will bolt straight into a KLR, but you will have to lower the front to get the geometry back in sync. Gino Hey Guys, After falling behind schedule, I finally went to pull the cylinder out of my bike only to find that the thing won't budge at all. As you may recall I pulled the head without a problem, I figured that would be harder than pulling the cylinder, but that thing seems to be glued on. I looked for any bolts holding it down, but the service manual only names the three that I removed. Does anyone have any sugestions? Thanks, Carlos If it is any good, I'd like to buy or borrow it! Rob C. - -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR650 List >Mike Magier wrote:... sharing basic maintenance tips on the list have sometimes >gone as far as to include digital pictures. VERY HELPFUL!! would you consider >VIDEO......... > >ANS: What a coincidence. Last week I arranged with local dealer mechanic to >do a video of 1000-mile service and valve check/adjustment on a 98 KLR650. I >plan to use a Sony Hi8 video camera. If it turns out decently, I'll let y'all >know. > >-- dr robert > > > > Thanks for the great comments! Rob C. - -----Original Message----- >Yesterday I received my copy of BMWON. The magazine of the BMWMotorcycleOwners of >America. Jeff Dean's article talks of owning 11 motorcycles. 11 BMWs , but he adds one more. A >KLR 650 to which he says: .." a fine, powerful, versatile, and light dual purpose bike with a giant >gas tank. ........" This from a card carrying Beemerphile. Incidently, the F650 was NOT among his >11 BMW choices. > >I also read somewhere (Here?) that Helge Pedersen of "10Years on Two heels" fame mentions >that upon seeing a heavily laden KLR that he often wished that he had a KLR during the >journey. > >I also have relayed a message about Frank Campbell, currently in Colombia with his trouble free >22,000 mile KLR, who previously rode a R100GS to Tierra del Fuego. He chose a KLR. > >Our bike choice has, and is garnering more, respect around the moto community. I am pretty >happy with my A12. Sure it needs a little improvemnt here and there. Show me a bike that >doesn't! > >WE OWN GREAT BIKES! > >Alex :-) Jomarron >Oak Park, IL >88 BMW K75S >98 KLR 650 > > >> >>>I completely agree! I use nothing but Snap-On torque wrenches. They are >>>more money but well worth it. Where would I get mine recalibrated? I >>>suppose Snap-On would do it. >> >> >>Fred >>Fred and List, >> For those wanting to have their torque wrenches properly calibrated, I`ll >>post the addresses and phone numbers of two companies that I use for my >>aircraft wrenches. These companies calibrate all measurement sensitive >>tools. >> Their prices are less than half of what Snap >On >>charges (Snap On, $89) and have a quicker turn around time. >> >> >> Skip (who tries not to torque others off) >> >> >> > >OK I'll bite. What are those addess' and phone #? > >Fred Fred and List, Sorry to be so tardy in response to the above post. For those wanting their torque wrenches and or micrometers,dial indicators,calipers, height gages,depth micrometers and pressure gages, the following company is the best deal around. They cater to the aerospace industry, but will calibrate and certify equipment from the general public also. Be sure when mailing your instrument in, to package it well and include a note with your name, address, phone number and what you want done. This company also calibrates the equipment for other calibration companies, so if some of you have master calibrators, they can also certify those. The price is $25 per unit and if requested, will issue a calibration correction card. All items will be tagged and identified with a certificate of calibration with traceability to the National Institute of Standard Technology. If repairs are needed, that charge is separate and will be quoted. Turnaround time is one to two days. Advanced Aviation Inc. 16801 McCandless Lane Council Bluffs, IA. 51503 Telephone: 712-323-2173 p.s. On an earlier post this evening, my wife had that darn spell checker on and it didn`t recognize the word "resetable" and replaced it with Seattle. p.s.s. I bet Fred thought this was a joke and thought I was going to give the address of the Mustang Ranch, to get his torque wrench calibrated. Skip (who doesn`t need Spell Check to to confuse others, he does quite well on his own ) End of klr650-digest V1 #341 **************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James Naus Subject: (klr650) Removing triple-clamps Date: 03 Nov 1998 09:35:04 -0500 Has anyone removed the triple-clamps and replaced the head tube bearings? I started to do this on Saturday and did not read far enough ahead in the book. It says you need a special tool to remove the center bolt under the handle bars and it also looks like a pain to remove and replace the bearings. Has anyone done this and is there anything I should know or look out for? Frank how much is that special tool going to cost me? On a side note. I am doing this because I thought I bent my forks after using a car to stop myself. Well, it turns out that the only damage is to the bottom triple-clamp and maybe to the top triple-clamp. Both fork tubes are in great shape, these 43mm inverted forks are pretty strong. Thanks for any help, James Tallahassee, FL '95 KLX650C ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (klr650) Duct tape Date: 03 Nov 1998 08:25:24 -0700 Thought this was kinda fun. Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, but I use a lot of duct tape. "Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side, a dark side, and it holds the universe together." Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Fuses Date: 03 Nov 1998 11:12:11 While prepping the bike for the upcoming long winter's nap, I decided to sort out what the fuses did what and make sure I had spares on board. As it turns out, my bike (and everybody else's, probably) has three fuses. There is a 10 amp fuse in a white fuse holder located near the coolant tank. It is tie-wrapped (the tie on my bike has a little tab so you can release and re-use the tie) to the outside leg of the mounting frame for the tank. You can see the fuse holder by looking through the grill in the right side of the fuel tank fairing. This fuse protects a wire leading to the fan relay. There is a spare 10 amp fuse mounted inside the fuse holder. The easiest way to get to the fuse is to remove the fairing. It is easier to remove the fairing by removing the silver 8mm hex head cap screws that attach the black plastic cover to the coolant tank and the single screw at the top of the fairing. There are two fuses in the holder located under the seat. Yes, you have to remove the seat (10mm hex head cap screws) to gain access. One fuse is a 20 amp and the other is a 10 amp. There is a spare 10 amp stuck into the rubber mount that surrounds the fuse holder. There is NO spare 20 amp fuse. The 20 amp fuse is the main fuse and protects the entire bike. It looks like the 10 amp fuse protects the tail and/or brake lights. I decided that it would be a good idea to have a spare for each size fuse. Since there already is a 10 amp spare in the fan relay fuse holder, I wanted to change the 10 amp spare under the seat to a 20 amp. The existing spare fuse was completely stuck in the rubber mount and I had to BREAK the fuse to get it out. Nice. If you were really in a jam, you could carefully cut the rubber around the spare fuse and get it out without breaking it. I decided to try coating the new spare with silicone grease and only shoved it about half-way into the hole in the rubber mount. It slides easily and, hopefully, I will be able to get it out without breaking it if I ever really need it. I hope this description of sliding greasy things into a hole isn't too modern. Wouldn't want to offend anyone. So, I now have a spare fuse on board for each size. They are located in incredibly inconvenient places. Since I bought a box of five fuses for each size and there's room in the factory toolkit for both boxes, I put the rest of the fuses in the toolkit. This virtually guarantees that I will never have a fuse blow and, should the impossible happen, I've got it covered. All this for less than three bucks. No need for fancy circuit breakers or re-wiring the bike either. :-) Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Winslow Subject: (klr650) Advice on a 1989 KLR650 Date: 03 Nov 1998 13:35:14 -0500 (EST) Howdy, I came across a 1989 KLR650 for sale for the wonderful price of around $1000. It has around 6000 miles on it (as far as I know). How do the 1989 models differ from the newer ones? Is the gas tank the same size and the windscreen similar? Any info or experiences that you may have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Eric M. Winslow '93 GS500E 1-800-AMA-JOIN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: David M. King Subject: (klr650) NKLR NX 650 Advice Date: 03 Nov 1998 12:46:07 -0600 I have the chance to buy a 1989 NX 650 for around $1600. I know at least one person on this list had one of these. Can anyone tell me about this bike and if that sounds like a good deal? Thanks, David M. King ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Advice on a 1989 KLR650 Date: 03 Nov 1998 14:06:24 -0500 At 01:35 PM 11/3/1998 -0500, Eric Winslow wrote: >Howdy, > >I came across a 1989 KLR650 for sale for the wonderful price of around >$1000. It has around 6000 miles on it (as far as I know). > >How do the 1989 models differ from the newer ones? Is the gas tank the >same size and the windscreen similar? Any info or experiences that you may >have would be greatly appreciated. '96+ bikes have beefed up clutch components, more flywheel mass and and a (supposidly) improved seat, as well as an improved counterballancer chain tentioner. Does it run? Is it in decent overall shape? If so, buy it. -Tom '96 KLR 650 30,600 miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: (klr650) I GOT DSN! Date: 03 Nov 1998 16:56:55 -0500 King Gino, Just got my first issue of DSN. What a great idea to open the scope of the newsletter! I have been battling with COBRA about pipes, and while leafing through the issue, noticed on page 3 a KLR with an exhaust I don't recognize. I thought I had to pick between Supertrapp and COBRA. Could anyone give me a list of available exhaust pipes for the KLR. Thanks. Todd A11 Wilmington, Delaware ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) To: "'klr650@lists.xmission.com'" Date: 03 Nov 1998 17:53:04 -0700 Fellow mechanically ignorant and/or plain unlucky listoids (the adroit of mind & body need not read on): Yes, all 4 cam cover bolt holes can be heli coiled without taking off the head. The man who did this for me offered these opinions as to why stripping is likely to occur precisely there. #1 A 6mm bolt with a 12mm head, If you torque by feel it won't work with this combination. #2 If the cam cover is just a bit off line the bolts will go in at an angle and strip the holes. I can't be positive but this is what I think I did since I was finishing the job in a hurry in the dark and I know I didn't over torque. Either that or the mechanic that last checked the valves did the foal deed. Tap or nudge the cover slightly till the bolts drop in easy. He also postulated that to tighten these guys a inch/lb. torque wrench is a must as the lower end of a ft./lb. wrench.is notoriously inaccurate.Of course anti-seize is also a must. Bogdan, poorer for sure, wiser not guaranteed ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Date: 03 Nov 1998 18:20:05 -0800 Great posting, Mr. Kaub. I'm going to put some spare fuses in my stock tool kit too. I just assumed A) I'd never blow a fuse, and B) if I did, there'd be a spare on board. My lack of concern about fuse problems/trust in Kawasaki could have caused me trouble if the 20-amp main fuse had blown. I'd have been searching the ground for a gum wrapper, or something. To protect me against that revolting outcome, I've just put some aluminum foil in my tool kit, until I get "real" fuses. Thanks. Rob C. A12 Atascadero, CA -----Original Message----- >While prepping the bike for the upcoming long winter's nap, I decided to >sort out what the fuses did what and make sure I had spares on board. >As it turns out, my bike (and everybody else's, probably) has three fuses. > >There is a 10 amp fuse in a white fuse holder located near the coolant >tank. It is tie-wrapped (the tie on my bike has a little tab so you can >release and re-use the tie) to the outside leg of the mounting frame for >the tank. You can see the fuse holder by looking through the grill in the >right side of the fuel tank fairing. This fuse protects a wire leading to >the fan relay. There is a spare 10 amp fuse mounted inside the fuse holder. > The easiest way to get to the fuse is to remove the fairing. It is easier >to remove the fairing by removing the silver 8mm hex head cap screws that >attach the black plastic cover to the coolant tank and the single screw at >the top of the fairing. > >There are two fuses in the holder located under the seat. Yes, you have to >remove the seat (10mm hex head cap screws) to gain access. One fuse is a >20 amp and the other is a 10 amp. There is a spare 10 amp stuck into the >rubber mount that surrounds the fuse holder. There is NO spare 20 amp fuse. >The 20 amp fuse is the main fuse and protects the entire bike. It looks >like the 10 amp fuse protects the tail and/or brake lights. >I decided that it would be a good idea to have a spare for each size fuse. >Since there already is a 10 amp spare in the fan relay fuse holder, I >wanted to change the 10 amp spare under the seat to a 20 amp. The existing >spare fuse was completely stuck in the rubber mount and I had to BREAK the >fuse to get it out. Nice. If you were really in a jam, you could >carefully cut the rubber around the spare fuse and get it out without >breaking it. I decided to try coating the new spare with silicone grease >and only shoved it about half-way into the hole in the rubber mount. It >slides easily and, hopefully, I will be able to get it out without breaking >it if I ever really need it. > > I hope this description of sliding greasy things into a hole > isn't too modern. Wouldn't want to offend anyone. > >So, I now have a spare fuse on board for each size. They are located in >incredibly inconvenient places. Since I bought a box of five fuses for >each size and there's room in the factory toolkit for both boxes, I put the >rest of the fuses in the toolkit. >This virtually guarantees that I will never have a fuse blow and, should >the impossible happen, I've got it covered. All this for less than three >bucks. >No need for fancy circuit breakers or re-wiring the bike either. :-) >Thanks. >Bob Kaub >State University of New York >PO Box 6000 >Binghamton, NY 13902 >607-777-2715 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) LAND USE ALERT! Please respond! Date: 03 Nov 1998 22:51:12 -0500 An Important messege from the Blue Ribbon Coalition.. PLEASE READ! Robert Withlacoochee DualSport Riders Florida >---------- >> From: Terry Lee Cook >> To: AMA Staff, Dana Bell >> Cc: AMA Staff, Eric Lundquist ; AMA Staff, Kelita >Svoboda ; AMA Staff, Ed Moreland > >> Subject: OHV ALERT !!! >> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 9:19 AM >> >> Attention all trail bike and ATV activists. The Forest Service is in >> the process of revising it's most important management guidance >> document, the strategic plan. It is holding a series of meetings all >> around the country in order to solicit public comment that will help >> mold this direction. >> >> Unfortunately, the press release outlineing the meetings was not >> received by the general trail riding public until after the first >> meetings had already begun. Somehow, this was not the case for the >> green community, who was out at the first meeting in force. While this >> is disconcerting, it is also an indication of how important it is for >> the riding public to get involved. >> >> A copy of the press release follows. Some of you who have been copied >> on this message have access to riders or motorcycling business leaders >> who are interested in this issue and who reside near one of the cities >> where meetings will be held. I'd appreciate you re-copying those >> individuals. If you are able to attend one of the meetings, please do >so >> >> and be prepared to contribute to it. If you do attend, please let me >> (Eric Lundquist) >> know your impressions and whether you have any specific comments you >> would like AMA to include in our official comments to the Forest >Service >> >> in this matter. >> >> AMA will be attending the Washington, DC meeting. >> >> >> >> USDA Forest Service News Release >> >> Contact: National Media Desk 202-205-1134 >> Alan Polk 202-205-1089 >> E.Lynn Burkett 202-205-0958 >> >> FOREST SERVICE WANTS PUBLIC OPINIONS ABOUT FUTURE MANAGEMENT >> >> Washington, DC (Oct. 19, 1998) -- A series of national public >meetings, >> >> starting Tuesday in Los Angeles, will kick off the US Forest Service's >> development of the Forest Service Strategic Plan (year 2000). The >> Forest Service will be using public meetings, e-mail, letters, surveys >> and faxes to gain public insights about how future Agency programs >> should be managed. >> >> "We are committed to seeking public input before we develop our >> National Strategy," US Forest Service Chief Mike Dombeck said today. >> "Knowing and understanding the expectations of the American public for >> Forest Service programs in the 21st century is critical to determining >> the most appropriate long-term goals and objectives for Forest Service >> programs." >> >> The Government Performance and Results Act requires Federal agencies >to >> >> ". . .solicit , and consider the views and suggestions of those >entities >> >> potentially affected by or interested in" the development of strategic >> plans. The Forest Service is holding public meetings, asking for >written >> >> comments, and conducting a public survey in early 1999. >> >> Dombeck urges the public to provide input by attending one of seven >> meetings or provide it to the Agency in writing. The Agency will be >> accepting written comments by mail, fax, and e-mail. Forest Service >> representatives will be at the meetings to answer questions. >> >> "This first round of public input, supplemented by survey results and >> other information, will provide the foundation for a draft strategic >> plan," Dombeck said. "Once the draft strategic plan has been developed, >> it will be available for public review and comment." >> >> The public meetings are as follows: >> Oct. 20, Los Angeles, Calf., contact: Mike Srago, (415) 705-2855; >> Oct. 27, Seattle, Wash., contact: Dick Phillips, (503) 808-2281; >> Nov. 4, Washington, DC, contact: Rod Kuhn, (202) 205-1033; >> Nov. 10, Atlanta, Ga., contact: Bob Wilhelm, (404) 347-7076; >> Nov. 18, Chicago, Ill., contact: John Dwyer, (847) 866-9311; >> Dec. 1, Albuquerque, NM, contact: Parks Hillyard (505) 842-3202; >> Dec. 3, Denver, Colo., contact: Pam Skeels, (303) 275-5152. >> >> Written comments should be sent to: >> >> USDA Forest Service-SPRA >> Attn: Kathryn P. Maloney >> P.O. Box 96090 >> Washington, DC 20090-6090 >> >> Comments may also be e-mailed at resources.program/wo@fs.fed.us or >> faxed to Kathryn P. Maloney at (202) 205-1546. For additional >> information, call (202) 205-1235, or visit Forest Service web site at >> http://www.fs.fed.us/pl/rpa. >> >> ### > >--------- End forwarded message ---------- > > >-- >David Clemens >dclemens@execpc.com > > >To unsubscribe from Ride-Net, send mail to majordomo@off-road.com >enter only these two words "unsubscribe ridenetl" in the body of the >message. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR NX 650 Advice Date: 03 Nov 1998 20:03:09 -0800 David, the NX650 is one of my favorite bikes. In New Zealand in the late '80s and early '90s I owned a red one, which I had bought new. It was a good handler in dirt, probably better than my XL600 was. It wouldn't start on some frosty mornings, but otherwise, no problems. I gutted the stock mufflers and rejetted the carb, and got wheel-lifting roll-ons easily. The bike let me do things I couldn't do on other DP bikes, like roost sand over hardpack without wobbles even on corners, and ride over roots and stumps in commercial pine forest-located rides. It wasn't real good on hill climbing, because the DP tires wouldn't grab, and it was fairly heavy. And I injured my left foot when a rock rolled my toes under the footpeg, because of soft suspension and not much ground clearance (and rider error, of course). It had a few problems. Wide throttle below 3.5k rpms brought worrisome engine clanks and knocks and big handlebar vibration, and the mirrors were always blurred during accelleration. Oil changes weren't that hard, but if I didn't take the bash plate off, it made an oily mess. The carry rack was too small, and (if memory serves) was made of black plastic, so I couldn't overload it. As with the KLR650, the headlight was fixed in a fairing, but was even harder to adjust. It drew admiring glances (and some drools) from other bikers of the Dual Sport persuasion. If the NX650 you're considering is straight, has lowish mileage, and looks good/rides good by your standards, buy it. If I didn't have my KLR650 (a superior bike, due to liquid cooling, more power, better-engineered- [I believe] for-durability power train, and larger tank), I'd still be trying to find an NX I could buy. Unfortunately, they are rare. I hope this helps. Rob C. -----Original Message----- >I have the chance to buy a 1989 NX 650 >for around $1600. I know at least one person >on this list had one of these. Can anyone tell >me about this bike and if that sounds like a >good deal? > >Thanks, > >David M. King > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Date: 03 Nov 1998 21:25:10 -0700 > >There is a 10 amp fuse in a white fuse holder located near the coolant frame for >right side of the fuel tank fairing. This fuse protects a wire leading to >the fan relay. There is a spare 10 amp fuse mounted inside the fuse holder. > >There are two fuses in the holder located under the seat. Yes, you have to >remove the seat (10mm hex head cap screws) to gain access. One fuse is a >20 amp and the other is a 10 amp. There is a spare 10 amp stuck into the >rubber mount that surrounds the fuse holder. There is NO spare 20 amp fuse. >The 20 amp fuse is the main fuse and protects the entire bike. It looks >like the 10 amp fuse protects the tail and/or brake lights. >I decided that it would be a good idea to have a spare for each size fuse. >Since there already is a 10 amp spare in the fan relay fuse holder, I . Nice. If you were really in a jam, you could>So, I now have a spare fuse on board for each size. They are located in incredibly inconvenient places. >This virtually guarantees that I will never have a fuse blow and, should >the impossible happen, I've got it covered. All this for less than three >bucks. >No need for fancy circuit breakers or re-wiring the bike either. :-) >Thanks. >Bob Kaub Bob, You are correct, the 20amp is your main system fuse, but the 10amp is your headlamp fuse. Your turn signals and tail are on the main system. If changing your fuses is not an inconveinance to you, then by all means, I would not alter your system. It is a big inconvienance to me. I`ve got better things to do than pull over my bike at night, in traffic, with no lights and it`s 18 degrees, and start dissassembling my bike to get to a blown fuse. I`m not lazy, I just prefer a better and more reliable system. I enjoy adapting this great bike to my personal and practical preferences. Many mods on this list are not for everybody. Some prefer their bike as is, rock stock and enjoy the heck out of it. Thats great, I support them and more power to them. Then there are those of us that love their bike, but due to our use of the bike, need some improvements in some areas to adapt the bike to our needs and enjoy the bike more instead of dealing with inconvienences that pester us. Your post is a good one and of value to many, but there is nothing "fancy" about curcuit breakers. They`ve been around a long time and without question are more reliable and less problematic than fuses. The average life of an aircraft circuit breaker is 10 years. I doubt you`ll be getting that out of your fuses. Yes, a reset breaker is about $4. If it were any cheaper, Kawasaki would have installed them. For the time you invested in doing what you described in your post, you could have installed the breakers and be done with it. One thing, I don`t understand how what you did would " virtually guarantee that you would never again blow a fuse". Or am I just slow tonight and missed your sarcasm. Skip (who may be slow here, but not on the A9) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Date: 03 Nov 1998 21:17:05 -0700 >Great posting, Mr. Kaub. I'm going to put some spare fuses in my stock tool >kit too On a similar note...don't trust that your stock tool kit includes the wrench you'll need to remove the front wheel...it is not to be found.... Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT (Just south of Fruit Heights) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Date: 03 Nov 1998 21:39:52 -0700 > One thing, I don`t understand how what you did would " virtually >guarantee that you would never again blow a fuse". Or am I just slow tonight >and missed your sarcasm. > > Skip (who may be slow here, but not on the A9) yep....I think you missed it partner... Kurt A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements Date: 03 Nov 1998 21:20:25 -0800 List- Concerning the two fuses under the saddle, one of them is for the headlight. What is the other for? Which (10A or 20A) is for the headlight? A scan through the SM didn't answer the question. TIA Darrel A12 "Avenger" Oxnard, CA ************************** Dr Robert writes: KLR electrics: One of the common concerns with KLRs is the occasional tendency to blow fuses for no obvious reason. Some of these events appear to be due to bad connections and surges not adequately controlled by the voltage regulator . ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 03 Nov 1998 22:47:37 -0700 It sounds like the Kawasaki engineering dept. has under rated their fuses. I design circuits for all kind of things, I am a veteran electrical engineer, and I am current employed with motorola. What I am about to say may rub some people wrong, and go against common maintenance sense. If you keep blowing fuses, for no reason, up its value to the next larger size. Typically, if there is ever a problem with your electrical system, like a short, it will pull much more current than your over sized fuse will allow. It will then blow like it should. Manufactures like Kawasaki select fuses so that they are just rated above the circuits typical current demand. They may not always take heat or vibration into their current ratings. As far as mechanical / thermal breakers, I would not recommend them. They are much slower to open / blow, in the event of a miss hap, and they are more prone to vibration stresses. Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace than a common fuse. Tony in Phoenix > KLR electrics: One of the common concerns with KLRs is the occasional > tendency to blow fuses for no obvious reason. Some of these events > appear > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuse identification Date: 03 Nov 1998 22:45:59 -0700 >List- >Concerning the two fuses under the saddle, one of them is for the >headlight. What is the other for? Which (10A or 20A) is for the >headlight? A scan through the SM didn't answer the question. TIA >Darrel A12 "Avenger" >Oxnard, CA > Darrel, The 20amp is your main system fuse,(read everything but your headlight and coolant fan) and the 10amp is your headlight. As Bob pointed out earlier , your coolant fan fuse is on the right side on the frame behind your coolant reservoir . As noted by the esteemed Ron, some desert racers remove their fan altogether, so that one, I`m not messing with. Skip (who`s wife says he messes enough) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements Date: 03 Nov 1998 22:56:05 -0700 >I agree completely: the best is your solution, albeit with a little more work; >then Polyswitches; then and a bad last, the stock fuse solution. The short >cool-down time beats the time required to remove side protectors and seat to >replace fuse. I expect to eventually install breakers of the type you indicated, >plus a voltmeter, near the present instrument cluster. > >tanks -- DR. Robert, Don`t get me wrong. If one hasn`t the time or inclination, installing the Polyswitches is a good way to go. Like you said earlier, if you don`t have the need to be able to pull a circuit and don`t mind a little wait for cool down, Polyswitches are a good alternative. With wire strippers in hand, they could be installed in 10 minutes and wrap them in a piece of rubber for vibration protection. I`m always tinkering with my bike and like being able to take a circuit off-line without disconnecting the battery, therefore, I like a breaker I can pull. Skip (who needs to take himself off-line) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust Research? Date: 04 Nov 1998 01:04:43 EST I was searching the net, and came across the Big Gun Exhaust for the KLR650. At about $330.00 (plus spark arrestor price), it is very expensive compared to the Supertrapp IDS which is $189.95 at MAW with a built in spark arrestor (a little more elsewhere). The thing that got my attention is that they (Big Gun) are claiming up to 8 Horsepower gains for the KLR with their exhaust on their web site. I know somebody was talking about testing this system from Big Gun a while back. Has anybody gotten one? If so, what about sound levels, power, etc. Those kinds of gains seem to good to be true for anything that's fairly quiet, even at that price. Boy does it sound good though..... Bill Swindle (Still kicking around the new exhaust idea) A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 03 Nov 1998 23:27:38 -0700 >It sounds like the Kawasaki engineering dept. has under rated their >fuses. >say may rub some people wrong, and go against common maintenance sense. > If you keep blowing fuses, for no reason, up its value to the next >larger size. Typically, if there is ever a problem with your electrical >system, like a short, it will pull much more current than your over >sized fuse will allow. It will then blow like it should. >Manufactures like Kawasaki select fuses so that they are just rated >above the circuits typical current demand. They may not always take >heat or vibration into their current ratings. As far as mechanical / >thermal breakers, I would not recommend them. They are much slower to >open / blow, in the event of a miss hap, and they are more prone to >vibration stresses. Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace >than a common fuse. > Tony in Phoenix > Tony, As you are probably aware, fuses are basically rated for the circuit they protect (wire). The larger the wire, the larger the fuse rating. In the past, I`ve had customers who have of their own volition, have taken it upon themselves to replace the fuses in their older aircraft with a higher rated fuse to remedy a problematic circuit, to find that over time, they have ruined the circuit by increasing the resistance that has developed by the circuit overheating. That is what the proper rated fuse is supposed to prevent, overheating the circuit. It is a serious no no to the FAA and aircraft manufacturers to place an inappropriately rated fuse in a circuit. Modern aircraft circuit breakers are designed to be delayed in circuit interruption for the main reason fuses blow, harmless transient surges. When a $10,000 electronic radar system is protected by the same circuit breaker on my bike, I`m satisfied. Most people don`t realize that people`s lives are dependent on the reliability and safety of these same circuit breakers. Most of my customers planes have an average of $15,000 to $20,000 of highly sophisticated avionics and computer systems protected by these same breakers. One other note. Aircraft are notorious for severe vibration. That is one of the main reasons that the aerospace industry has replaced fuses with modern circuit breakers, they handle vibration better than traditional fuses. That is why if you are going to stay with a fuse system, at least switch to the blade type. They are more resistant to vibration than filament type. You are right, I`m very much against the practice of going to a higher rated fuse in the circuit. The potential for circuit damage is just to high for me, based on seeing the results of people who have done it. Skip (who`s just a careful ole cuss, NOT) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 04 Nov 1998 00:10:30 -0700 Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace >than a common fuse. > Tony in Phoenix Tony, I forgot to note, that with your fuses under your seat, and my breakers on the left side of my bike, I`ll bet you a Corbin seat that I can replace all three of my breakers before you can replace one fuse. The main problem is that I won`t have to replace a breaker for many years, so you`ll get more practice than me. Skip (Agreeing to disagree) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 04 Nov 1998 07:14:11 -0500 Aside from wiring reliability (useful lifespan) issue, have you calculated the shortfall in the factory-designed fuse values, taking into consideration the external factors you mentioned? Best, Stuart 1998 KLR650 At 10:47 PM 11/3/98 -0700, Tony wrote: >It sounds like the Kawasaki engineering dept. has under rated their >fuses. >.... If you keep blowing fuses, for no reason, up its value to the next >larger size. Typically, if there is ever a problem with your electrical >system, like a short, it will pull much more current than your over >sized fuse will allow. It will then blow like it should. >Manufactures like Kawasaki select fuses so that they are just rated >above the circuits typical current demand. They may not always take >heat or vibration into their current ratings. As far as mechanical / >thermal breakers, I would not recommend them. They are much slower to >open / blow, in the event of a miss hap, and they are more prone to >vibration stresses. Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace >than a common fuse. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust Research? Date: 04 Nov 1998 06:32:09 -0700 -----Original Message----- >I was searching the net, and came across the Big Gun Exhaust for the KLR650. >At about $330.00 (plus spark arrestor price), it is very expensive compared to >the Supertrapp IDS which is $189.95 at MAW with a built in spark arrestor (a >little more elsewhere). The thing that got my attention is that they (Big Gun) >are claiming up to 8 Horsepower gains for the KLR with their exhaust on their >web site. Redondo Ron has had one on order for at least six months...it is vaporware. I think the price is higher because they intend on including a new and improved header pipe with the silencer.... Kurt A12 Ron? Any updates.... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) KLR Fuses Date: 04 Nov 1998 08:57:59 -0500 The 10amp fuse sitting next to the 20amp fuse also protects the head light circuit. I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was going to use automotive blade type fuses. After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a lot of weather and water there. Since I have never had a fuse blow I guess I'm "okay" with leaving them were they are. One good point someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ian Ellison Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #337 Date: 04 Nov 1998 16:55:50 -0000 I was considering a sheepskin seat cover for longer rides on the Tengai. Has anyone any ideas where I could get an example of the model shown below? http://www.2wf.com/html/pictureoftheday/nzdate.shtml Cheers! Ian Ellison Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Lowering Links Kit Date: 04 Nov 1998 12:07:44 -0500 I just posted an article on the KLR650 Web Page by Gino on the Quality Engine R&D Lowering Links Kit. Check it out at: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page5.html Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #337 Date: 04 Nov 1998 12:54:54 EST Ian, LOL!!! I went by a few of those riding the KLR a coupla days ago...Hmmm, maybe I could get you a deal on one from the farm owner! Hilarious post! Thanks, Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust, more specs Date: 04 Nov 1998 13:46:36 EST snip >...claiming up to 8 Horsepower gains for the KLR with their exhaust... I just got off the phone with Mike Young, (aka Big Gun). The latest guess is that the klr pipes will be ready to ship by Friday the 13th. The hang ups in the past have been the sound level and dialing in the optimum match between the head pipe and the exhaust port. In previous conversations Mike allowed that the 8hp gain requires more than just his exhaust system. To match the freer flowing exhaust, you'll at least need to rejet the carburetor and get an easier breathing air filter. Today he offered the decibel ratings of 98db without the spark arrestor and 92db with. The pipe comes with a one year warranty. http://www.off-road.com/~myoung/ Redondo Ron (who's hoping to get lucky by Friday the 13th) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 04 Nov 1998 14:06:20 -0600 (CST) Hello guys, Got the cylinder and piston out! I couldn't find a valve spring compressor from friends that worked so I just gave the head to the local shop so they can replace the the oil seals and lap the valves. It shouldn't be too expensive. Got a question though, is using oven cleaner to clean a the carbon off the piston safe, is it effective? Carlos Milwaukee, WI ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star Stand problem Date: 04 Nov 1998 14:17:10 -0600 (CST) I got a call from Mike at Dual Star today. He was very helpful and he asked me to send the stand back to him at my convinence so he could take a look at it and try to determine the problem. Carlos ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Corcoran, Jon M (Mike)" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR NX 650 Advice Date: 04 Nov 1998 12:23:22 -0800 David, I've got an 88 that I've made into an adventure tourer and love it. Don't have any advice if you plan on using it much in the dirt. Mine's meant to be a fire-road tourer for Alaska & I'm still in love with it after a year of modifying and riding. In response to Rob: (:> (:>It had a few problems. Wide throttle below 3.5k rpms (:>brought worrisome (:>engine clanks and knocks and big handlebar vibration, and (:>the mirrors were (:>always blurred during accelleration. I notice the same engine noises. Think it's the radial actuated valve head and normal. Not horrible, just noticeable have negligible handlebar vibration with stock exhaust and mostly stock carb. I do have aluminum bars mounted. The (:>carry rack was (:>too small, and (if memory serves) was made of black plastic, (:>so I couldn't overload it. Think the rack is pretty much the same size as the KLR's. It is supported by the tubular steel rear fender supports & very strong. As with the KLR650, the headlight was fixed in (:>a fairing, but (:>was even harder to adjust. Yep. Have to do a bit of fairing removal to get at it. It accepts standard halogen upgrades. If the NX650 (:>you're considering (:>is straight, has lowish mileage, and looks good/rides good by your (:>standards, buy it. Agree. Make sure suspension and fairing are in good shape. Parts are hard to come by in the states(Can get things from the UK). If I didn't have my KLR650 (a superior (:>bike, due to (:>liquid cooling, more power, better-engineered- [I believe] (:>for-durability (:>power train, and larger tank), I'd still be trying to find (:>an NX I could (:>buy. Well, I chose the NX because of price and air-cooling(simpler, no chance of broken radiators ruining a trip, but maybe less top end life) As for the tank, Acerbis has one, but only available directly from the US distributor. It's about 6 gallons. One thing Rob neglected was the seat. The stocker is dirtable, but pretty narrow for distance riding. I had mine re-shaped & covered by Sargents. Oh, the front brake is a 2 pot caliper, so it's likely a better stopper than the KLR. Rear will likely be a drum. I paid $1900 for mine. It had suspension mods by Progressive(front) and WP(shock). Engine had less than 10K. I've done the seat, windscreen, seat and frame stiffener/bag supports. For $2500 I have an NX that's pretty much the functional equivalent of a KLR. Just be real picky about the shape it's in. A fixer could be a bad trip... Hope that helps. Mike Corcoran (:> (:> (:>>I have the chance to buy a 1989 NX 650 (:>>for around $1600. I know at least one person (:>>on this list had one of these. Can anyone tell (:>>me about this bike and if that sounds like a (:>>good deal? (:>> (:>>Thanks, (:>> (:>>David M. King (:>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) To: "'klr650@lists.xmission.com'" Date: 04 Nov 1998 13:29:59 -0700 Listoids: My last chain driven bike, a Suzuki Water Buffalo, left my hands in 74. This is my first relationship with an O Ring. My chain, the original, has 18.5k. I've only had to adjust it once in the 14.5k I've owned the beast. I did an informal stretch test it seems fine. The rear sprocket is also still O.K. The front sprocket is a different story. It's lost all semblance of symmetry. Is it sacrilegious to replace only the offending unit? Everything I read or here says a set of sprockets should outlast 2 chains. Should I replace the entire system? Is that D.I.D X all that it's advertised to be? Bogdan, Accused of being the missing link. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Messsage forwarded to list... Date: 04 Nov 1998 15:35:48 -0700 >>From mkellis@harbornet.com Wed Nov 04 12:20:37 1998 >As a new member and a new KLR owner, I have a problem and need advice. > >While working through my "new" '94 KLR and checking the valve settings (one >of them badly wrong), I managed to drop one of the little sleeves that fit >into the cam pillowblocks down along the cam chain and and into the sump. >What is the best way to recover it?? I have the manuals on order, but I >don't know when they will get here. > >It's an interesting list...I've lurked on it in the past before I finally >sprang for a KLR. Now I just have to get it back together so I can learn >more before winter really sets in. > > >Hugh Stout >'74 R90/6 >'78 CB400T2 >'94 KLR650 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Linus Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fuses Date: 05 Nov 1998 08:22:40 +0800 Here`s a small tip Bill.I recently changed my starter relay,but opted for a Kawi Vulcan 800 part because of it`s similarity in construction and ratings.There was a blade fuse (10amps) pre-fitted on it with input and output terminals made probabaly for the Vulcan 800 headlights. So you just have to reroute the existing KLR headlamp wiring through that fuse. As you know the starter relay SW is located at an easy to get place(just below the fuel tank),so no probs in replacing the fuse. Linus KLR-Tengai 90 At 08:57 AM 04-11-98 -0500, you wrote: >The 10amp fuse sitting next to the 20amp fuse also protects the head >light circuit. > >I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the >left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was going >to use automotive blade type fuses. > >After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against >the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a >lot of weather and water there. Since I have never had a fuse blow I >guess I'm "okay" with leaving them were they are. One good point >someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at >night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one >tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might >reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can >get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. > >Bill > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Sconzo Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Date: 04 Nov 1998 19:35:46 -0500 Kurt Simpson wrote: > On a similar note...don't trust that your stock tool kit includes the wrench > you'll need to remove the front wheel...it is not to be found.... > > I heard that Kurt! I just got back from a trip up to the Daniel Boone National Forest. My experiences up there revealed that the KLR tool-kit was almost useless in the back country. One of the guys I was riding with, had a Leatherman Multi-tool, and I never let him out of my sight after my carb float got stuck (did this twice after some mild jumping) and a couple of times dropping my sweetheart (the KLR). Needless to say I have purchased the "Leatherman Wave" for my own personal use. It is a fine tool, but lacks a measuring stick on the handle which was handy up in Kentucky. I'll try to post something about the trip soon. Scott in Orlando-A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust, more specs Date: 04 Nov 1998 16:46:10 -0800 > Today he offered the decibel ratings of 98db without the > spark arrestor and 92db with. The pipe comes with a one > year warranty. >>>>>>>>>> Hi Ron! ....would y'all happen to know what the db rating is for the standard pipe? There's an important item to consider here. The readings need to be taken from the same point in space....as like 12" centered behind the bike at a height of 36". If there's no consistency in taking the measurement then any db rating is just about meaningless. I would know about this based on my many years of speaker building. eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: don roger Subject: RE: (klr650) Messsage forwarded to list... Date: 04 Nov 1998 19:52:53 -0500 Two suggestions: 1. try to flush it out by putting in the drain plug if its out, adding = oil, then draining the oil. If there is oil in the bike now, drain this = oil. In any event you need some kind of sieve to catch the sleeve so you = don't have to paw around in the oil looking for the thing. Good luck! 2. Failing that, take off the left side cover and look in the bottom of = the sump. This is much harder! look in the manual and make sure you're = up to it before you start. Don R -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:36 PM >>From mkellis@harbornet.com Wed Nov 04 12:20:37 1998 >As a new member and a new KLR owner, I have a problem and need advice. > >While working through my "new" '94 KLR and checking the valve settings = (one >of them badly wrong), I managed to drop one of the little sleeves that = fit >into the cam pillowblocks down along the cam chain and and into the = sump. >What is the best way to recover it?? I have the manuals on order, but = I >don't know when they will get here. > >It's an interesting list...I've lurked on it in the past before I = finally >sprang for a KLR. Now I just have to get it back together so I can = learn >more before winter really sets in. > > >Hugh Stout >'74 R90/6 >'78 CB400T2 >'94 KLR650 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: don roger Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Date: 04 Nov 1998 19:57:30 -0500 Although this note started looking at this swap from the other direction = (making a Tengai Taller) I'm interested to know if the Tengai-into-KLR = shock swap is a better idea than the lowering kit. More expensive yes, = but is it better from the point of rear linkage geometry and the = possibility of driving the tire into the fender with a hard impact? Don R=20 -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:15 PM In a message dated 11/2/98 5:17:09 PM Mountain Standard Time, linus@sem.my.sony.com.sg writes: << Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a = Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared = to the KLR650. >> Tengai's not only have a shorter shock, but it is a better quality unit = also. They will bolt straight into a KLR, but you will have to lower the front = to get the geometry back in sync. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 04 Nov 1998 18:41:01 -0700 No, I dont work for Kawasaki and I havent derated my bikes fuses. Fortunately, they dont ever blow. But if one did consistantly, for no apparent reason, I might hook up a current meter and measure at peak curent demand (turn on the signals, fan, head lamp on high beam and maybe honk the horn. But I think I would just up the fuse value to the next size. If it blew again, then that would certainly get my attention. To think that youre going to blow up your battery for going to the next larger size fuse, or cause a fire from melting wire, is unrealistic. Your larger fuse will surely blow long before this happens. This kind of thing happens when you bypass your fuse. I know that this is not what you are implying or asking. Just general info for the un-in-formed. Tony Stuart Heaslet wrote: > Aside from wiring reliability (useful lifespan) issue, have you calculated > the shortfall in the factory-designed fuse values, taking into > consideration the external factors you mentioned? > > Best, > > Stuart > 1998 KLR650 > > At 10:47 PM 11/3/98 -0700, Tony wrote: > >It sounds like the Kawasaki engineering dept. has under rated their > >fuses. > >.... If you keep blowing fuses, for no reason, up its value to the next > >larger size. Typically, if there is ever a problem with your electrical > >system, like a short, it will pull much more current than your over > >sized fuse will allow. It will then blow like it should. > >Manufactures like Kawasaki select fuses so that they are just rated > >above the circuits typical current demand. They may not always take > >heat or vibration into their current ratings. As far as mechanical / > >thermal breakers, I would not recommend them. They are much slower to > >open / blow, in the event of a miss hap, and they are more prone to > >vibration stresses. Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace > >than a common fuse. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (klr650) KLR decibel level Date: 04 Nov 1998 21:01:11 EST On 11/4/98, eroads@europa.com wrote: snip >know what the db rating is for the standard pipe?.... >There's an important item to consider here....If there's no >consistency in taking the measurement then any db rating >is just about meaningless..... Stock pipe...short answer...80db. Good catch Eric. The EPA uses very specific methods to test manufacturers claims, including ambient temp, calibrated equip, rider weight, etc. 90% of klrs (or any street bike manufactured after '86) are certified to 80dB A-weighted, for up to a year after purchase, (allowing 10% of the fleet to exceed this level). I've tried to decipher all the legalese, but gave up. Here's the site if you want to give it a go. Warning....it's almost 50 pages long and can also be used to put choleric babies to sleep. http://www.epa.gov/epacfr40/chapt-I.info/subch-G/40P0205.pdf Redondo Ron (whaaaaaaaaaaaaaa) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Michael C. Jordan" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fuses Date: 04 Nov 1998 19:15:11 -0800 -----Original Message----- >The 10amp fuse sitting next to the 20amp fuse also protects the head >light circuit. > >I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the >left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was going >to use automotive blade type fuses. > >After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against >the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a >lot of weather and water there. Since I have never had a fuse blow I >guess I'm "okay" with leaving them were they are. One good point >someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at >night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one >tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might >reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can >get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. > >Bill > >Funny, that just happened to me yesterday... I was blazing up Mt. St. Helena in the dark (commuting from Kenwood, CA to beautiful Cobb, CA) and suddenly (while all leaned-over like) NO LIGHTS!. Yes, I turned ignition to "P." Yes, I fished out my Pelican light. (Yes, the batteries went dead after 10 minutes.) Yes, I had a spare bulb. Yes, the bulb managed to fall into the reflector and I had to fish it out w/ no light except the headlights of the cars zipping by. It's funny how you can't remember what the shoulder looks like when your lights go out. My fuses ('89 KLR) do mysteriously, occasionally blow. The neckbone who put the fuse holder under the seat should be flogged. I was using a Widder vest, Kimpex grip heaters, and a big, fat illegal bulb from Fred Hink. (But sometimes the fuses blow when I'm not milking the battery for all it's worth. Maybe once every two months. I ride about 500-700 miles per week, u sually.) What happened is the low beam filament blew, and so did the headlight fuse. I blame the bulb this time, but probably only because it "looks cheap." I think I'll stick w/ Phillips from now on. > >MJ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Date: 04 Nov 1998 22:32:57 EST In a message dated 11/4/98 5:59:44 PM Mountain Standard Time, ddroger@travel- net.com writes: << I'm interested to know if the Tengai-into-KLR shock swap is a better idea than the lowering kit. More expensive yes, >> It would be very expensive. The shock alone is $500.00 new. Then you would have to slide your fork tubes up. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Date: 05 Nov 1998 17:01:07 +1000 Gino wrote: [Tengai shorter shock stuff] > << I'm interested to know if the Tengai-into-KLR shock swap is a better idea > than the lowering kit. More expensive yes, >> > > It would be very expensive. The shock alone is $500.00 new. Then you would > have to slide your fork tubes up. This is assuming a factory shock, I suppose. I wonder if the aftermarket shock makers would have any to suit the Tengai's different travel, but considering the small numbers of Tengais around, they might not. While the Tengai shock is shorter, it has less travel as well, so fender clearance at full bump shouldn't be a problem. The Tengai rear frame was all the same as the KLR anyway. The changes to the frame and tank were mainly to add tabs and mounts for the extra bodywork. If the front forks are to be adjusted up in the clamps to level the bike, might as well get some aftermarket springs to better resist bottoming. The Tengai front suspension was modified a bit for lower height and less travel, but I don't know exactly how. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! Date: 05 Nov 1998 07:20:42 -0500 Just reading my new DSN. I see 4 piston calipers being made for the KLR!!!!! A gift from the Gods. How do I get drool out of this keyboard? Todd A11 waiting to stop ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mike Ratta Subject: (klr650) Joe Rocket Rhino boots Date: 05 Nov 1998 08:00:33 -0500 Any listers have first hand experience with these boots? I'm looking for something for long rides, some in the wet. Are they comfortable enough for a lot of walking? What about flexibility for shifting while in a full crouch on a sportbike? Thanks for any info in advance. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics Date: 05 Nov 1998 08:04:55 -0500 You're right, I was concerned about the capacity of the wiring if the fuse limits were bumped up. That's why I asked about calculations. From what I've heard over much of the year on the list is that there may be some wiring that could stand to be larger, such as the circuit to the headlamp. I'm not an electrical engineer and don't want to be overly anal about the issue, but when there's some question, I'm not inclined to change fuse load values based on presumed rules-of-thumb. I would prefer knowing that you were right, of course. Stuart At 06:41 PM 11/4/98 -0700, Tony wrote: >No, I dont work for Kawasaki and I havent derated my bikes fuses. Fortunately, >they dont ever blow. But if one did consistantly, for no apparent reason, I >might hook up a current meter and measure at peak curent demand (turn on the >signals, fan, head lamp on high beam and maybe honk the horn. > But I think I would just up the fuse value to the next size. If it blew >again, then that would certainly get my attention. To think that youre going >to blow up your battery for going to the next larger size fuse, or cause a >fire from melting wire, is unrealistic. Your larger fuse will surely blow long >before this happens... >Stuart Heaslet wrote: >> Aside from wiring reliability (useful lifespan) issue, have you calculated >> the shortfall in the factory-designed fuse values, taking into >> consideration the external factors you mentioned? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #345 Date: 05 Nov 1998 07:01:37 -0600 Bogdan, >Is it sacrilegious to replace only the offending unit? I hate to be the bearer of bad, or at least expensive, tidings, but you really should replace both sprockets and the chain. With 18.5K on the chain and rear sprocket, they're close to the end of their life anyway. You'll get much better life out of the new components if you replace them as a set. BTW, what kind of lubrication regime do you use on the chain? Rich CMRA# 352 97 900CR '87 Concours '86 RZ500 '85 RZ350 x 2 '86 XT350 '80 GS1000S '76 CB400 racing EX500's ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Desmond, Richard - TAFB/LASPO2" Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #345 Date: 05 Nov 1998 07:01:37 -0600 Bogdan, >Is it sacrilegious to replace only the offending unit? I hate to be the bearer of bad, or at least expensive, tidings, but you really should replace both sprockets and the chain. With 18.5K on the chain and rear sprocket, they're close to the end of their life anyway. You'll get much better life out of the new components if you replace them as a set. BTW, what kind of lubrication regime do you use on the chain? Rich CMRA# 352 97 900CR '87 Concours '86 RZ500 '85 RZ350 x 2 '86 XT350 '80 GS1000S '76 CB400 racing EX500's ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rcklr@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Fwd: Green Flag for Dec 13th SuperTT Date: 05 Nov 1998 09:35:29 EST This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_910276529_boundary Content-ID: <0_910276529@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII In a message dated 11/5/98 3:24:57 AM EST, CW1Canet writes: << It's official! The Dec 13 Buttonwillow SuperTT is going to happen. We've decided to add a Knobbies Only class at this event, so try to convince a few of your riding buddies to put a set of worn knobs to good use and come sample some SuperTT competition. A healthy rider turnout for this race may help get a few choice dates at Buttonwillow in `99 so we don't have to race again in the 100+ August heat. I've added a flyer page to the web site that can be printed out and passed on to potential SuperTT converts. Best Regards, Don Canet >> Hey all you folks on the left-coast.... Go check out the SuperTT, and even give it a go. Remember the web site: www.supertt.com I'm gonna get out there next year to see what it's all about. MN Ron --part0_910276529_boundary Content-ID: <0_910276529@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-path: tom.fitzgibbon@us.pwcglobal.com, Rcklr@aol.com, lbark@interhop.net, mulsanne@gem.net, tkinney80@hotmail.com, rrohrich@interaccess.com, VetterK@intgame.com, citybike@best.com, BMorse656@aol.com, davemoen@shuswap.net, bryanw@topher.net, EcclesD@abcrail.com, jay@activebike.com, a-jengel@microsoft.com, CAMPJK@aol.com, ed@p-d-g.com, TCanavan@drumbeat.com, csprecher@earthlink.net, gazoo@north.nsis.com, kfeye@notes.amkor.com, lcastell@snet.net, aflcio@pacbell.net, jcjaf@pacbell.net, bmathison@opseu.org, sc@tcnet.ch, PegLang@classic.msn.com Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit It's official! The Dec 13 Buttonwillow SuperTT is going to happen. We've decided to add a Knobbies Only class at this event, so try to convince a few of your riding buddies to put a set of worn knobs to good use and come sample some SuperTT competition. A healthy rider turnout for this race may help get a few choice dates at Buttonwillow in `99 so we don't have to race again in the 100+ August heat. I've added a flyer page to the web site that can be printed out and passed on to potential SuperTT converts. Best Regards, Don Canet --part0_910276529_boundary-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) Southern Dual Sporters Date: 05 Nov 1998 10:59:30 -0500 Hello All You DSRs If anyone lives in the Southeast US (Carolinas, GA. FL, AL, MS, LS, TN) and would like to get a copy of the newsletter that covers DS riding in the Southeast, email your snailmail address to me at rlfrey@gte.net We cover the entire SE US, not just our home state. We'd also like to have you join, we have members in FL, SC, GA, AS Please, we are still a small (130 members) organization so only those in the SE respond. Thanks Withlacoochee DualSport Riders, Florida! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! Date: 06 Nov 1998 03:35:32 +1000 Todd Emsley wrote: > Just reading my new DSN. I see 4 piston calipers being made for the > KLR!!!!! A gift from the Gods. How do I get drool out of this keyboard? Let's hope they're a bolt on replacement for the old calipers. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Juan_Cort=E9s?= Subject: (klr650) Bike Computer Date: 05 Nov 1998 15:46:16 -0400 Hello everybody, I would like to ask you if you know if there is some = computer for the Bike like the KTM 640 Adventure has or Africa Twin has. As far as I know they operates as tripmeters, avergage speed, average = fuel consumption etc. Please let me know brands, models , approx. Cost and where to buy it. Thanks in advance. Juan Cortes CHILE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust, more specs Date: 05 Nov 1998 18:15:56 EST << > Today he offered the decibel ratings of 98db without the > spark arrestor and 92db with. The pipe comes with a one > year warranty. >> I wonder what the decibel rating on the Supertrapp IDS Racing/Quiet is??? Does Supertrapp list em' anywhere? Hmm....... Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! Date: 05 Nov 1998 17:30:50 -0700 actually, I believe that the European KLR models have had that for some time. Anybody across the pond care to corroborate that? --rr Todd Emsley wrote: > Just reading my new DSN. I see 4 piston calipers being made for the > KLR!!!!! A gift from the Gods. How do I get drool out of this keyboard? > > Todd A11 waiting to stop ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Kessler Subject: (klr650) KLR650 Hand Levers Date: 05 Nov 1998 20:14:28 -0500 I am new to the mail list but have been skimming the archives. Good stuf= f in there. One thing I haven't noticed is any info on after-market hand levers. I haven't been able to find any cross reference for levers that will bolt up to my KLR in any bike catalogs. Is OEM the only replacement= ? Eric, KLR650 A-12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 Hand Levers Date: 05 Nov 1998 19:13:37 -0700 (MST) On Thu, 5 Nov 1998, Eric Kessler wrote: I believe Motion Pro makes some KLR replacement levers. I tried one of their clutch levers and it didn't fit quite right. It appeared the pivot hole wasn't quite drilled in the right place. I could have done some filing and made it fit, but for an extra three bucks the OEM bolt right on. Perhaps their was some anomoly with my bike's clutch. Jeff Tucson, AZ '89 KLR > I am new to the mail list but have been skimming the archives. Good stuff > in there. One thing I haven't noticed is any info on after-market hand > levers. I haven't been able to find any cross reference for levers that > will bolt up to my KLR in any bike catalogs. Is OEM the only replacement? > > Eric, KLR650 A-12 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-9?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: (klr650) Summary of my modifications Date: 06 Nov 1998 04:14:44 +0200 -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: B=DDROL SAY Kime: KLR650 list Dear KLR Lovers, I have met my baby last year. She was my first motorcycle. I had deceived her only during the big disaster last spring (after an accident she stayed in hospital for 3 months). I've tried BMW F650 for a month and R1100GS thereafter. I've sold both. They were good bikes but can you imagine living with a partner who is always dressed, who knows everything and nobody knows more than everybody about (try GS mailing list and see). You can touch every part of this creature. This list helped me to become familiar with her. I know all the patrons. I'm an invasive cardiologist but also a biomedical engineer, amateur pilot (1982 T-67m Firefly), mountaineer, scuba diver, photographer etc. As I work for "Doctors Without Borders" and "Search&Rescue" societies, there had been many occasions (Afghanistan and Bosnia) I imagined to have a dual purpose motorcycle. This is it. Here we have six of them for the S&RS. Mine is different of course (she is the guinea pig of the group). The long and short of it I'm deep in debt to the listers. Well the remaining is the topographic&functional anatomy of my modifications (chronological classification would be a mess): 1. Lower front fender ( plastic OEM MuZ fender tightened to the lower part of front fork with gas pipe collars. I've added a small mousepad as an additional mudguard. The original one is still there. Looks like R1100GS) 2. Dunlopad front brake pads (they hold better but they are narrower than OEM -Toyo- ones. I'm afraid of uneven wear.) 3. Auxillary lights ( two fog projectors with 55 W H3 Halogen lamps on both sides of lower front fender. They were heavy for electrical system so I've added a relay works with city light circuit and a direct line from battery for main power. I've put the switch and the relay on the black plastic covering the backside of the headlight. The projectors are connected to each other serially so the total power became 27,5 watts otherwise you're easily out of battery. I had changed the 60/55 OEM headlight with 100/90 one but I don't use it anymore since the plug melted somewhat. I have installed two small cat's eye type, 5 W each tail lights on the rear fender and a long 30 W tube type brake light under the rear carrier. They are obligatory I think). 4. Headlight protector (Cut out of 3 mm thick plexiglass 1 cm larger than the headlight opening and mounted on the fairing with four screws on the corners. Thick plastic washers gives enough distance for cooling an cleaning purposes. Saved my glass from the pebbles two times). 5. Bolts and nuts exchange (I've replaced all the B&Ns with stainless steel or chrome covered Allens. Washers became stainless steel or brass. I hate Philips screws. No rust. No screws with just a hole in the middle. Easy access. No loosening with nylo-stop nuts). 6. Clock ( A small car-type, matchbox shaped, digital clock covered with 3M amalgamating tape and silicone for water resistance and sticked on a L shaped holder attached to the middle wind protector mounting bolt. Taken out the plastic nut and used a longer bolt "Allen of course" and nylo-stop nut). 7. Air in the forks ( I always keep 5 KPa of air pressure in the front forks. The equalizor "I'm not an egalitarian!" system is still under construction). 8. Handlebar (lead shots in the bar, screw-in bar end weights, mirror weights and gorgeous gel-grips. Skip's solution for mirrors is logical as usual but I live in Turkland an hardly any spare parts for her. I don't want welded mirror holders). 9. Fuel filter ( is a must especially after seeing the mud collected in it. It's exciting and assuring to see the blood flow). 10. Carburettor (Just screwed the air screw 3 turns out. Try it if you can bear to loosen the carburettor take it partly out, drill the plug annnnd place the little bas... back). 11. Fusebox ( replaced them with blade type ones and got rid of the old box. Stuffed the three "third is the auxillary line" in the old rubber holder, covered the mess with plastic bag. Spares are by them in a plastic drug bottle). 12. Airbox ( drilled 33 holes on the top edge and placed perfusion line hose pieces in them to keep water out of it. "They are about 1 cm in height so a splash of water won't get in easily" I feel it breathes easier. 13. Exhaust system ( Taken out the OEM completely and placed a pipe with small Toyota muffler instead. Used two stainless steel salad plates as heat protectors. Top end is a disappointment without regarding the noise. Low and middle range is better than OEM. Taken out but still working on it. Any websites about muffler engineering? 14. Oil ( use a mix of 1/5 Mobil 1 "0-40" and 4/5 Castrol "20-50" change it every 5000 km like my cars. For cables 140 grade gear oil with a high pressure PTCA syringe is good for summer and 0-40 Mobil 1 goes smoother for winter. Castrol chain lube and wax alternatingly is my choice for the chain. A trial of Molykote chain lube and grease (MoS2 type) is underway). 15. Luggage ( A 50 lt top case and soft saddle bags with a small tank-bag is all needed. Dainese back-pack with protectors went to my brother for school books) 16. Future plans ( Use an old endoscope to check out the hidden fuel reserve and improve Skip's ideas, design and construct leg protectors out of duraluminum) We are not trying to transform an innocent baby to a beast but mutants are more exciting and inspiring than naturals. This way we feel that we are the real proprietors of our property. This way they become extraordinary and not a mirror image of a factory template. This is the way we are. Aren't we? Birol Say, M.D. (Tried to tell my story short no adj., no adv.,no pronouns) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! Date: 06 Nov 1998 04:12:52 +0200 -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: Todd Emsley Kime: klr650@lists.xmission.com Tarih: 05 Kas=FDm 1998 Per=FEembe 13:21 Konu: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! Just reading my new DSN. I see 4 piston calipers being made for the KLR!!!!! A gift from the Gods. How do I get drool out of this keyboard? Todd A11 waiting to stop Listers, We are installing a wider front brake disc and Tokico 4 piston caliper to one of our Search&Rescue babies. I will inform the list about the results, price and purchase address very soon. Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements Date: 06 Nov 1998 03:46:13 +0200 Skip, Did you think of using a main power switch and what about the water proofness problem of the appliance fuses if I put them outside? I always ride my baby, even in the rain storms. Covering them with silicone gloves (very strong but transparent and soft enough) may be a solution I think. Birol Say, M.D. ( taking good care of patients and trusts his mechanics for lovely T-67 M Firefly) -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: skip faulkner Kime: KLR650 Page Tarih: 04 Kas=FDm 1998 =C7ar=FEamba 07:02 Konu: Re: (klr650) Polyswitches as fuse replacements >I agree completely: the best is your solution, albeit with a little more work; >then Polyswitches; then and a bad last, the stock fuse solution. The short >cool-down time beats the time required to remove side protectors and seat to >replace fuse. I expect to eventually install breakers of the type you indicated, >plus a voltmeter, near the present instrument cluster. > >tanks -- DR. Robert, Don`t get me wrong. If one hasn`t the time or inclination, installing the Polyswitches is a good way to go. Like you said earlier, if you don`t have the need to be able to pull a circuit and don`t mind a little wait for cool down, Polyswitches are a good alternative. With wire strippers in hand, they could be installed in 10 minutes and wrap them in a piece of rubber for vibration protection. I`m always tinkering with my bike and like being able to take a circuit off-line without disconnecting the battery, therefore, I like a breaker I can pull. Skip (who needs to take himself off-line) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bonenfant Subject: (klr650) Re: AND YOU THINK YOU HAD A BAD DAY Date: 05 Nov 1998 12:46:25 -0800 After reading some of the horror stories around here, I got this post and thought I would pass it along.. > Next time you think you're having a bad day remember that---- > > 1. The average cost of rehabilitating a seal after the Exxon Valdez > oil spill in Alaska was $80,000. At a special ceremony, two of the most > expensively saved animals were released back into the wild amid > cheers and applause from onlookers. A minute later they were both > eaten by a killer whale. > > 2. A psychology student in New York rented out her spare room to a > carpenter in order to nag him constantly and study his reactions. > After weeks of needling, he snapped and beat her repeatedly with an ax > leaving her mentally retarded. > > 3. In 1992, Frank Perkins of Los Angeles made an attempt on the > world flagpole-sitting record. Suffering from the flu he came down eight > hours short of the 400 day record, his sponsor had gone bust, his > girlfriend had left him and his phone and electricity had been cut off. > > 4. A woman came home to find her husband in the kitchen, shaking > frantically with what looked like a wire running from his waist > towards the electric kettle. Intending to jolt him away from the > deadly current she whacked him with a handy plank of wood by the back > door, breaking his arm in two places. Till that moment he had been > happily listening to his Walkman. > > 5. Two animal rights protesters were protesting at the cruelty of > sending pigs to a slaughterhouse in Bonn. Suddenly the pigs, all two > thousand of them, escaped through a broken fence and stampeded, > trampling the two hapless protesters to death. > > And the capper....... > > 6. Iraqi terrorist, Khay Rahnajet, didn't pay enough postage on a > letter bomb. It came back with "return to sender" stamped on it. > Forgetting it was the bomb, he opened it and was blown to bits. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 05 Nov 1998 21:05:11 -0700 The list and webpage need a really good Frequently Asked Questions section. I'm willing to take the lead and gather individual entries and do my share of research. I'm looking for others to offer suggestions and/or be willing to prepare an installment on the suggested item of interest. So, what should be included in the FAQ? I have my ideas what are yours? Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) Electrics Date: 05 Nov 1998 22:14:19 -0700 Stuart, some day I want to do a smoke test of standard wire sizes. There are alot of tables for max current on copper with all of the different insulation's. But these people do tend to derate 25%. For example; (hypothetically) a 18 awg wire will smoke at 12.5 amps but is rated for 10 amps. Also, you can bet the fuses are derated too. A 10 amp fuse might likely blow with less than 10 amps. This would also be affected some, by the wire connected to it. The larger wire will act as a larger heat sink to sip some of the heat off the fuse. If the above hypothetical case was similar to the KLR, we are all in trouble! Next time I take my bike apart, Im going to take notes on the wire sizes used. As well as the fuses. Do you know what the head lamp power rating is? 55 Watts? A 10 amp fuse should get you by for about 120 watts. This is pushing it. But surely for 55 watt head lamp and some smaller loads like brake lights. But maybe not, some one should do some addition of the all the bulbs wattage's. If it comes close to 10 amps, then there lies the problem. And my cure would be to replace the 10 amp with a 12 or 13 amp fuse. These are kind of nonstandard fuses for automotive use, but you can get them. BTW My KLR is like the energizer bunny on speed, it goes real fast non stop! No failures yet, just upgrades. Bars, brake rotor, exhaust, grips, tank bag, and next will be a K&N jet kit. Tony ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) I-FAQ....request from the dark side...NKLR Date: 06 Nov 1998 01:36:25 EST Kurt wrote: snip >what should be included in the FAQ? I have my ideas what are yours? My personal favorite would have to be...Why won't it start? Followed by....Why does it run poorly? Too easy? Let's add an Infrequently Asked Questions list. How about multiple choice answers? It might also offer some insight into our fellow listers. I offer the following as an example... You're tearing up a single track that's beyond your ability. You end up with one of your SiDi boots stuck in your new Renthal Desert bars, the other wedged under a burly peg, and a helmet full of dirt. After spitting out the mud and checking for broken bones and metal, do you... A) Curse profusely; B) Wish that you'd installed that rear brake guard; C) Tell your buddies you were attacked by a grizzly; D) Wonder if you can get Aerostich to take the boots back; E) Swap parts with your friend's klr when he isn't looking; F) All of the above. That's my IFAQ. What's yours? CA Truk (Kurt's evil twin, who got an F on this test) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) The Great Expedition to Batopilas Date: 05 Nov 1998 22:45:06 PST PANCHO VILLA MOTO-TOUR 10/17 SIERRA MADRE EXPEDITION Lone Ranger: Tonto, we are surrounded by wild Indians. Tonto: What do you "we", white man? Fortunately, on this expedition the natives were friendly and the trusty PVMT guides stayed loyal to the end. Fourteen riders from across the US and three PVMT staff (one leading, one most of the time pulling up the rear except when his enthusiasm overwhelmed him and one in a chase vehicle) had a wonderful 7-day frolic through the Mexican state of Chihuahua. Most of the riders were, to my surprise, grey-beards like myself. I believe only 2 were under 50. Their skill level on both pavement and dirt was quite high, in some cases very high indeed, so the group was able to keep a very brisk pace over both the 100 miles or so of dirt and 100 miles or so of pavement each day. Some of the dirt was very challenging, lots of rocky sections with some sand and numerous creek crossing. The group rode mostly KLRs, with one Suzi DR650, one Ducati e900, one R100GS and two mightly KLXs (one mine and one belonging to a young chap who was the Texas trials champ). The PVMT guys rode R100GS's, which I felt put them at a serious disadvantage (heavy and having relatively short suspension) in the dirt but their skill level was such that any disadvantage was certainly not evident. The high point of the trip was the low point, the descent into the Copper Canyon to the old mining town of Batopilas, a 7000 foot drop to sea level and an almost tropical climate. The ride down was on a single lane dirt road with seemingly endless tight switchbacks, which made for some exciting passes with the occasional upward-bound truck, especially the federales in their Hummer, hauling out a busted 1100GS whose rider tore off a cylinder in an attempted ride down in the dark. We also passed his buddy, who successfully got to the bottom in his 1100GS, as he rode back up in his tee shirt and no helmet. Whew! Batopilas was founded in the 1600's and had many prosperous years due to the silver mines. Today, it seems to survive mostly off the modest tourist trade. The town is full of quaint old buildings, cute children of all colors and wonderful mountain scenery. During our one-day layover most of the gang enjoyed a swim in the river and a ride to the "lost mission," a really beautiful cathedral out in the middle of nowhere. Another "high point" for me was getting my first air off an elevated cattle guard, taken at about 50 mph. I didn't really expect to get launched quite so vigorously but the KLX flew well and landed as lightly as a bird. Accommodations were mostly very nice as were most of the PVMT arranged dinners. Only the hotel in Batopilas came up a bit short, with very small rooms and rather primitive facilities. But, hey, Batopilas itself made up for it. The PVMT guys really took good care of us and were good companions to boot. Heading back to the States we were flagged down by four young Israelis, who had just bought KLRs in California and were on their way to Tierra Del Fuego. Made me wonder why I didn't do something wild and wonderful like that when I was a kid. This trip was a blast and I heartily recommend. Now, if I could just afford their month-long expedition that goes on down through Guatemala and Honduras. Marick GARRETT_SLIGER@MSN.COM, KENPAYTON@ZIANET.COM, marick(Marick.Payton) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ian Ellison Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #346 Date: 06 Nov 1998 09:54:51 -0000 My Tengai has a 4 pot front caliper, which has 2 big and 2 small pistons, which Kawasaki's blurb reckons "balances the pressure across the brake pads". Sounds a little bogus to me.... Works quite well with a good hard squeeze - I can easily lock the front on dry tarmac from 60 or 70 mph. However it takes a bit of warming up (Kawasaki pads) and if you don't really bang on the brake it can be a bit leisurely. When I first got the bike I scared myself a couple of times by not using all the braking that was available to me and had to take evasive action to avoid becoming a bumper sticker! Ian Ellison Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com > [SMTP:owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com] > Sent: Friday, November 06, 1998 2:23 AM > To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com > Subject: klr650-digest V1 #346 > > > Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 17:30:50 -0700 > From: bruixot@rmi.net > Subject: Re: (klr650) 4 piston calipers! > > actually, I believe that the European KLR models have had that for some > time. Anybody across the pond care to corroborate that? > > - --rr > > Todd Emsley wrote: > > > Just reading my new DSN. I see 4 piston calipers being made for the > > KLR!!!!! A gift from the Gods. How do I get drool out of this keyboard? > > > > Todd A11 waiting to stop > > ------------------------------ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: Re: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:21:36 -0500 Kurt, One question could be- "What's the difference between the KLR and other dual sport motorcycles?" Tell me how I can help you. I'll be out of town this weekend, but would be happy to talk with you about the task next week. Stuart At 09:05 PM 11/5/98 -0700, Kurt Simpson wrote: >The list and webpage need a really good Frequently Asked Questions section. I'm >willing to take the lead and gather individual entries and do my share of >research. I'm looking for others to offer suggestions and/or be willing to >prepare an installment on the suggested item of interest. > >So, what should be included in the FAQ? I have my ideas what are yours? > >Kurt A12 >Bountiful, UT > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: (klr650) Re: Electrics Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:29:30 -0500 At 10:14 PM 11/5/98 -0700, Tony wrote: >Stuart, some day I want to do a smoke test of standard wire sizes. >There are alot of tables for max current on copper with all of the >different insulation's. But these people do tend to derate 25%. I've heard that derate figure too, in fact have authorized electricians to up fuse values in a building when the owner didn't want to rewire ( I don't do that anymore). On my KLR, I plan to replace the headlight wiring with heavier gauge. Stuart Juno Beach, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: Re: (klr650) I-FAQ....request from the dark side...NKLR Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:36:56 -0500 At 01:36 AM 11/6/98 -0500, Cloudhid@aol.com wrote: > Kurt wrote: snip >>what should be included in the FAQ? I have my ideas what are yours? >...After spitting out the mud and > checking for broken bones and metal, do you... > A) Curse profusely; > B) Wish that you'd installed that rear brake guard; > C) Tell your buddies you were attacked by a grizzly; > D) Wonder if you can get Aerostich to take the boots back; > E) Swap parts with your friend's klr when he isn't looking; > F) All of the above. A fine researcher and writer you are, sir. Uh, in Item C, Subsection A, Wildlife Hazards, you forgot the part about the rabbit in the pink tutu jumping out from behind a tree, surprising the rider. Displacement Dan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Battery Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:58:25 I was in the Sears store in Johnson City, NY yesterday and checked out the battery section. They have Die Hard motorcycle batteries and they carry the YB14L-A2 battery as their part #44364. The price is a very reasonable $34.99 with trade (and 8% tax in NY). There were 5 or 6 batteries on the shelf so I get the feeling that this model is a common one and sells well. The battery is sold dry but the acid is included in the box. You could buy one on sale and store it until needed without it deteriorating in storage. I've had several Sears motorcycle batteries in the past and they performed as well as the Yuasa and factory batteries they replaced. FWIW. Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dale Borgeson Subject: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:01:22 -0600 (CST) I mounted a Signet BC800 on my KLR this summer and it works great. I understand that any Signet above model number BC600 will work. Stay away from the wireless units. I bought mine mail order at Performance Bike. The catalog is at home but they have a web site www.performancebike.com. Cheers -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 08:16:49 -0500 I have a cycle computer I bought a few months ago on my KLX and I notice that at higher speeds I have a large error.. at 80MPH I see 57MPH. I think this has to do with sampling speed. Its made for the rotational speed of a bicycle wheel. I'm sure I didnt help this any by mounting the magnet and sensor on the brake disc, which is moving even faster. Have you noticed any such errors on yours? Is yours mounted on the rim or spokes? Or is it mounted lower? TIA :) I mounted a Signet BC800 on my KLR this summer and it works great. I understand that any Signet above model number BC600 will work. Stay away from the wireless units. I bought mine mail order at Performance Bike. The catalog is at home but they have a web site www.performancebike.com. Cheers -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #346 Date: 06 Nov 1998 09:43:19 -0500 The front brake on my Tengai is very good... I did my very first ass-in-the -air stoppie the other day at an intersection with a very short yellow light. Stopped on a dime! Mark, B2 At 4:54 AM 11/6/98, Ian Ellison wrote: >My Tengai has a 4 pot front caliper, which has 2 big and 2 small pistons, >which Kawasaki's blurb reckons "balances the pressure across the brake >pads". Sounds a little bogus to me.... > >Works quite well with a good hard squeeze - I can easily lock the front on >dry tarmac from 60 or 70 mph. However it takes a bit of warming up (Kawasaki >pads) and if you don't really bang on the brake it can be a bit leisurely. >When I first got the bike I scared myself a couple of times by not using >all the braking that was available to me and had to take evasive action to >avoid becoming a bumper sticker! > >Ian Ellison >Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge >Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! >http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Pancho Villa Tour to Copper Canyon Date: 06 Nov 1998 09:39:48 -0500 I was interested in the comments about the Pancho Tour to Copper Canyon. If there is anyone else on the LIST who went I would like to hear about the trip and your experiences. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Bonenfant Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 07:51:21 -0800 I am just wondering how many more revolutions your rotor turns versus the actual wheel ? : ) MRatta@ADE.com wrote: > bicycle wheel. I'm sure I didnt help this any by mounting the magnet and > sensor on the brake disc, which is moving even faster. Have you noticed any > such errors on yours? Is yours mounted on the rim or spokes? Or is it > mounted lower? TIA :) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Brush Guard Mounting kit Date: 06 Nov 1998 10:59:07 -0500 The Acerbis Rally Brush Guards come with mounting hardware for steel and aluminum bars. the inserts that go into the end of the handle bar are designed for steel bars but they also send inserts (I think) for aluminum bars. The aluminum inserts are smaller in diameter. I found one aluminum bar insert but am missing one. Question; does anyone on the LIST have an extra smaller diameter insert for the Acerbis Rally Brush Guards? Please let me know if you have one. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) I-FAQ....request from the dark side...NKLR Date: 07 Nov 1998 02:47:28 +1000 Cloudhid@aol.com wrote: [...] > You're tearing up a single track that's beyond your ability. > You end up with one of your SiDi boots stuck in your new > Renthal Desert bars, the other wedged under a burly peg, > and a helmet full of dirt. After spitting out the mud and > checking for broken bones and metal, do you... -Turn off ignition -Turn off fuel tap -Kick shit out of dead wombat Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Acerbis Plastic Date: 06 Nov 1998 13:47:28 -0500 I spoke this date with a representative of Acerbis about the information I received recently that Acerbis is no longer stocking most of the items once available for the KLR650. He confirms what I was told, they have ceased stocking many KLR items due to low volume of sales. Thought you might want to know. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alyef@juno.com (Alex Yefimov) Subject: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 13:48:07 EST On Fri, 06 Nov 1998 07:51:21 -0800 Brian Bonenfant writes: > I am just wondering how many more revolutions your rotor turns >versus the >actual wheel ? : ) Rotor and wheels have the same RPM, so the location should not be a factor in calculating the speed/distance traveled. However, the wheel diameter has a great affect on the calculations. 12" Dia. will spin more times per mile than a 19" wheel will. There must be some setting for wheel diameter to get correct calculations. Alex ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) To: "'klr650@lists.xmission.com'" Date: 06 Nov 1998 12:55:49 -0700 Rex H, I was going to write you direct but thought your answer might be of interest to the KiLeRoids. How's life with your Nolan N70? I'm on the verge of moving in that direction. They're made in Italy you know. By the way Birol, my mother thinks the best surgeons are Italian. Something to do with DaVinci & Rafael. Is Say an Italian surname? Ciao, Bogdan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: markking Subject: Re: (klr650) Bike Computer Date: 06 Nov 1998 15:05:11 -0800 You can always get all those features excluding the fuel parameters with a $30 cordless Mountain Bike computer Regards Mark No bike yet :-( Juan Cort=E9s wrote: >=20 > Hello everybody, I would like to ask you if you know if there is some c= omputer for the Bike like the KTM 640 Adventure has or Africa Twin has. > As far as I know they operates as tripmeters, avergage speed, average f= uel consumption etc. > Please let me know brands, models , approx. Cost and where to buy it. > Thanks in advance. > Juan Cortes > CHILE ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: tito@midwest.net (jeff pritts) Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 19:51:07 -0600 (CST) >I have a cycle computer I bought a few months ago on my KLX and I notice >that at higher speeds I have a large error.. at 80MPH I see 57MPH. I think >this has to do with sampling speed. Its made for the rotational speed of a >bicycle wheel. I'm sure I didnt help this any by mounting the magnet and >sensor on the brake disc, which is moving even faster. Have you noticed any >such errors on yours? Is yours mounted on the rim or spokes? Or is it >mounted lower? TIA :) I've used a Schwinn model SC-3 and an SC-8 on my Concours. Both were accurate to the 120mph limit and they both had a magnet mounted to the rotor. They worked great for me. Jeff Pritts - Decatur, Il tito@midwest.net COG #2190 HSTA #7752 Black 92 Concours "SR-71" (for sale) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 06 Nov 1998 15:18:58 -0800 I guess the sarcasm was missed...... >> bicycle wheel. I'm sure I didnt help this any by mounting the magnet and >> sensor on the brake disc, which is moving even faster. Have you noticed any >> such errors on yours? Is yours mounted on the rim or spokes? Or is it >> mounted lower? TIA :) Alex Yefimov wrote: > On Fri, 06 Nov 1998 07:51:21 -0800 Brian Bonenfant > writes: > > I am just wondering how many more revolutions your rotor turns > >versus the > >actual wheel ? : ) > > Rotor and wheels have the same RPM, so the location should not be a > factor in calculating the speed/distance traveled. However, the wheel > diameter has a great affect on the calculations. 12" Dia. will spin more > times per mile than a 19" wheel will. There must be some setting for > wheel diameter to get correct calculations. > > Alex > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Scott Eldredge Subject: (klr650) What guage wire? Date: 06 Nov 1998 21:40:06 -0800 What gauge wire are the 10A and 20A fuses on? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) Re: Electrics Date: 07 Nov 1998 00:27:07 -0700 Stuart, I brought home some notes on current carriying capacity of copper conductors that I thought every one might be interested in. Below is some data from Alpha Technical. "Current carrying capacity is defined as the amperage a conductor can carry before either melting the conductor or the insulator." For polyvinylchloride PVC nylon, this is what I believe that the KLR's wiring is made of. Copper temp 105C is where the insulation melts and goes away. 28 AWG - 4 Amps, 26 AWG - 5 Amps, 24 AWG - 7 Amps, 22 AWG - 10 Amps, 20 AWG - 13 Amps, 18 AWG - 18 Amps, 16 AWG - 24 Amps, 14 AWG - 33 Amps, 12 AWG - 45 Amps, 10 AWG - 58 Amps, 8 AWG - 75 Amps, 6 AWG - 105 Amps, 4 AWG - 145 Amps, 2 AWG - 200 Amps. The above ratings are for single conductor in 30C, ambient temp. Stranded wire is derated as; 2 - 5 conductors x 0.8, 6 - 15 conductors x 0.7, 16 - 30 conductors x 0.5. I think that the KLR's wiring will fall into the x 0.8 or x 0.7. Personally I would derate by half, or x 0.6 to be safe. So the question now is, what is the KLR's wiring sizes? And then a fuse value can be selected, hopefully a larger one than stock. Tony in Phoenix. P.S. I get a tank bag sunday from my wife for my birthday. Yippie! Im going to put a thick foam pad inside so that at high speeds I can lay on the tank like the fast croch rocket boys do ! ) Stuart Heaslet wrote: > At 10:14 PM 11/5/98 -0700, Tony wrote: > >Stuart, some day I want to do a smoke test of standard wire sizes. > >There are alot of tables for max current on copper with all of the > >different insulation's. But these people do tend to derate 25%. > > I've heard that derate figure too, in fact have authorized electricians to > up fuse values in a building when the owner didn't want to rewire ( I don't > do that anymore). On my KLR, I plan to replace the headlight wiring > with heavier gauge. > > Stuart > Juno Beach, FL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 07 Nov 1998 07:11:45 -0500 I am just wondering how many more revolutions your rotor turns versus the actual wheel ? : ) Brian wins the fast thinker award, this one tricked me for a minute. Todd A11 Wilmington, Delaware ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) Southern DualSporting Date: 07 Nov 1998 11:39:46 -0500 Thanks to all those that replied, those who live in the South and didn't reply yet, you still can, just email your snailmail address to rlfrey@gte.net to get a free copy of the dualsport newsletter that covers the south! To all you non-floridians: The name of the newsletter is "Florida DualSporter", Don't let that throw ya! We Ride ALL OVER THE SOUTH! VA, NC, SC, GA, FL, AL, TN. MS, LA! If you decide to join our organization (150 so far in only 2 years!), we can change the title for all out-of-staters to "The Southern DualSporter". We've had over 20 people respond already! Your input is needed: stories, how-to's, tips, pictures, etc. We plan trips, get togethers etc. Come join us, membership is $10 and includes the newsletter for the year. Let's ride! Check out the WDSRC website at httP://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5245 to see what we do! Thanks and let's grow dualsport in the south. Robert Frey Withlacoochee DualSport Riders Editor: "Florida DualSporter" '96 KTM RXC620 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rob Gendreau Subject: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 07 Nov 1998 11:35:48 -0700 I use a Cateye Enduro. The wheel magnet is mounted on a piece of bicycle spoke cut and stretched between two of the motorcycle wheels' spokes just above their first cross on the right side (which would make it about the middle of the rotor). The pick up is fastened to the speedometer's cable. I used a Cateye rear wheel bracket instead of the stock one (the only difference is that it has a longer wire so I didn't have to splice anything). It's accurate to 80 MPH. The newer Cateye Enduro has two trip odometers, BTW. Quite handy. I wish I had some lighting on the readout...And I think some smart cycle computer company oughta consider making motorcycle-specific computers. They're really missing a big market here, IMHO. Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) Cycle World Date: 07 Nov 1998 13:55:02 -0500 December Issue ofctcle World is out and has a neat article about the new KTM LC4 640 and the Adventure R Robert WDSRC KTM RXC620 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Firstgear Kilimanjaro Jacket Date: 07 Nov 1998 16:47:11 -0600 I just stumbled upon the home page for Firstgear. Since I have not seen it posted anywhere I thought I might as well send it. Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Rottenberg Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Rally Brush Guard Mounting kit Date: 07 Nov 1998 18:59:52 -0500 Dude, you are two weeks late man, I cleaned out the work bench and threw them out ... I do have one you can have that was attached to my old acerbis hand guard, and it had been installed on my OEM handlebars. So I believe it's the bigger diameter .... if u want it, it's yours. Email me direct during the weekend = tuca@tampabay.rr.com weekdays = stever@fullspectrum.net c-ya ! Steve in Tampa 98 B12 95 KLR 650 >The Acerbis Rally Brush Guards come with mounting hardware for steel and >aluminum bars. the inserts that go into the end of the handle bar are >designed for steel bars but they also send inserts (I think) for >aluminum bars. The aluminum inserts are smaller in diameter. > >I found one aluminum bar insert but am missing one. > >Question; does anyone on the LIST have an extra smaller diameter insert >for the Acerbis Rally Brush Guards? > >Please let me know if you have one. > >Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Firstgear Kilimanjaro Jacket Date: 07 Nov 1998 18:38:13 -0600 >Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 16:47:11 -0600 >To: KLR650 List >From: Alan Henderson >Subject: NKLR: Firstgear Kilimanjaro Jacket > >I just stumbled upon the home page for Firstgear. Since I have not seen it posted anywhere I thought I might as well send it. Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 Whoops! I forgot to post the internet address. Here it is: http://www.intersportfashions.com/home.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Daniel L. Hill" Subject: (klr650) Freedom Exhausted Date: 07 Nov 1998 21:20:11 -0600 Has anyone tried modifying the stock muffler to free up the gas path to the atmosphere. The replacement pipe systems are high priced in my budget. I have a plasma cutter and welding equipment, but need some help with the modification. I remember in the old straight pipe days pipe length had a role in low or high r.p.m. performance. Noise pollution and being heard in traffic is one of the terms. For example, the Virginia DMV motorcycle manual talks about using the horn to let others know your position in traffic. I appreciate any data you can send my way. My request includes specific measurements, diagrams of some of the pipe systems, and types of materials in the system you may have on your KLR exhaust now. Have a Good One, Dan Hampton Roads, Virginia dlhill@visi.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) KLR650 Hand Levers Date: 07 Nov 1998 22:16:19 -0800 Eric- Emgo offers p/n 30-64902 for KLR650 clutch lever replacement. About $4.95. Ride Safe, Darrel A12 ******************************** I am new to the mail list but have been skimming the archives. Good stuff in there. One thing I haven't noticed is any info on after-market hand levers. I haven't been able to find any cross reference for levers that will bolt up to my KLR in any bike catalogs. Is OEM the only replacement? Eric, KLR650 A-12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Electrics and proper application Date: 08 Nov 1998 00:14:58 -0700 >"Current carrying capacity is defined as the amperage a conductor can carry >before either melting the conductor or the insulator." >For polyvinylchloride PVC nylon, this is what I believe that the KLR's wiring >is made of. Copper temp 105C is where the insulation melts and goes away. 28 >AWG - 4 Amps, 26 AWG - 5 Amps, 24 AWG - 7 Amps, 22 AWG - 10 Amps, 20 AWG - >13 Amps, 18 AWG - 18 Amps, 16 AWG - 24 Amps, 14 AWG - 33 Amps, 12 AWG - 45 >Amps, 10 AWG - 58 Amps, 8 AWG - 75 Amps, 6 AWG - 105 Amps, 4 AWG - 145 >Amps, 2 AWG - 200 Amps. The above ratings are for single conductor in 30C, >ambient temp. >Stranded wire is derated as; 2 - 5 conductors x 0.8, 6 - 15 conductors x >0.7, 16 - 30 conductors x 0.5. I think that the KLR's wiring will fall into >the x 0.8 or x 0.7. Personally I would derate by half, or x 0.6 to be safe. >So the question now is, what is the KLR's wiring sizes? And then a fuse value >can be selected, hopefully a larger one than stock. > >Tony in Phoenix. Tony wrote: >> >Stuart, some day I want to do a smoke test of standard wire sizes. >> >There are alot of tables for max current on copper with all of the >> >different insulation's. But these people do tend to derate 25%. Stuart wrote: >> I've heard that derate figure too, in fact have authorized electricians to >> up fuse values in a building when the owner didn't want to rewire ( I don't >> do that anymore). On my KLR, I plan to replace the headlight wiring >> with heavier gauge. >> Stuart Tony, With respect to your background and experience, mine is from the other end. Rather than circuit design from the inside, my experience is application and design of external circuits (working on, installing , and redesigning existing circuits, load to load, or component to component) on aircraft. That is where most of my trained and practical experience comes from. Aircraft, having 14 volt, 28 volt , 115 volt and 200 volt systems D.C. (large cabin class also having A.C. systems) gives me a wide range of D.C. voltage back ground, especially in 14volt,(which is what the KLR really is). The following is very important for Listers that don`t have your background Tony, and intend to alter their wiring, especially some critical info pertaining to wire sizing and fuses you omitted. Also, no one said anything about exploding batteries or bikes on fire, as you made mention of in an earlier post, but the facts are that people have caused fires in aircraft by arbitrarily increasing fuse sizes without considering their system specifications first. There are even AD`s Airworthiness Directives) dealing with this practice and the results thereof. In your posts, you made mention of derating fuses and wire sizes, well, the term derating is really not correct. That term refers to when, say a wire size in a specific application, will carry a given current but is allowed by circuit protection to carry a lesser current, for safety and longevity of the conductor. In the application of wire sizes for most D.C. circuits (including motorcycles) wire size and circuit protection is based on current and application and this is not derating. For example, 18 AWG stranded (solid conductor will carry more, but not used on motorcycles)will carry a max. current of 16 amps, 14volts(12), for 5 feet in open air without exceeding the max. allowed voltage drop of 0.5 for continuous operation. That rating drops to 10amps. if the conductor is in a bundle or conduit, which it is on the KLR . In a bundle, as on the KLR, there is less heat dissipation of the conductor and additional heat from the surrounding conductors. In other words, you can`t just say, "18AWG (28 stranded) is rated for 16amps max." From that base rating, many other qualifiers bring that amperage down, i.e.. in bundle, number of other wires in bundle, length of run, ambient heat etc.....Also, if the bundle has more than 15 wires and/or any of the wires are carrying more than 20% of the total bundle amperage, the amperage capacity goes down. The above is standard SAE (automotive,cycles, etc...) and Aerospace engineering practices . The application charts I use at work are SAE, FAA and Honeywell charts and all use the same standards, depending on conductor material specs and insulation. Fuse ratings are not "derated" but may be below max. of the wire because of the application of the wire. As shown in a basic chart (not complete) I posted a while back, it shows, on the average, that when a circuitbreaker replaces a fuse, you can go up to the next higher amp. rating. Also remember that most manufacturers use minimums, not maximums, it`s not in their best interests. Automotive and motorcycle manufacturers use computer programs that take into account minimum current needs, accessories, options, bike or car configuration, etc.., and the program tells them the best wiring routes for minimum wire use, what minimum wire size to use and how to best use the wire configurations for minimum wire use ( as in the case of the KLR, with all the splices Kawasaki uses to save individual runs). Aircraft manufacturers do the same thing to save weight. So don`t think you have a lot of safety margins, because you don`t, it`s not practical. I get this info on the motorcycle side from a college buddy that used to be a design engineer for Honda USA and now works for Honeywell Electronics. He wrote the programs I`m referring to. So, all I`m saying is that most circuit protection is not "derated" and fuse use can`t be based on the max. rating of the conductor, because too many other qualifications have to be taken into account that reduce that rating. Just be careful. The above is just plain industry standard and fact and without using proper guidelines when increasing fuse ratings or reducing wire sizes, there will always be the possibility of damage. It`s always safer to go to a larger wire size if you want to increase fuse ratings. Tony, I`m not saying that you won`t get away with upping your fuse rating to the next size, I`m saying, is it worth it. p.s. The lighting circuit on my A9 is 18AWG, and the main system fuse wire is 16AWG. Or I should say WAS. Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: joel reynvaan Subject: (klr650) reflective tape Date: 07 Nov 1998 23:27:28 -0800 Hey, didn't someone on this list have a source for industrial reflective tape? I was trying to find the info but no luck. Thanks - JD bosozoku@olywa.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) reflective tape Date: 08 Nov 1998 02:25:11 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Hey, didn't someone on this list have a source for industrial reflective >tape? I was trying to find the info but no luck. > >Thanks >- JD >bosozoku@olywa.net > > > > Don't know if this is what you are looking for but you can check out: http://www.tapeworks.com/ Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) Re: Drill & Jet Date: 08 Nov 1998 11:22:12 -0700 Thanks Jake. just a few questions more, I assume that you rotated the carb towards the exhaust. By the way my heat shield is already permanately removed from the previous owner. Second, about reinstalling the pieces that fall out, I assume that this will be self explanatory? > I removed the air-mix screw cover months ago. I had to adjust it to 3.5 > turns out from zero to keep the throttle surge under control at speed. > Where is this cover located so that I can try playing with this too?Heres another comment / question. You did use a 1/16" drill bit right? I converted that to be 1.5875 mm. And if you stuck a file into it, probably 1.59mm. I have access to one of those drill bit kits, also I ordered one, the kind that have fractional, letters, and number sizes. This way I should be able to get somthing closer to 1.56mm, or #156. By the way, do you have to do emissions? I live in Phoenix which is a big metropolitan area that requires emission testing of cars. I dont know if or how they do bikes, Guess Ill find out in April when my tags come due. You are probably ok with 1.59mm, on the rich side, as long as you dont have to pass emissions. Much Better than way lean as my bike is. Im going to try the air box cover removal mod vise the holely one. Im trying to keep it easy to go back to stock for resale value. God forbit I ever get into a situation that warents the sale of my Bike ;..( As far as the cap screw mod from the philips, I have a special tool called a chapman set / off set screw driver and ratchet. Pretty nifty tool, it has small compact ratchet. Im going to try this first. By the way, I called the local Kawasaki dealer, they want about $150 for a filter / jet kit. Pretty big price for some enlarged holes! ThANKS AGAIN, Tony ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Handle bar Article Date: 08 Nov 1998 11:50:20 -0500 Posted an article on KLR handle bar choices and comparisons. I only previewed a few of the more popular choices and would ask that you guys (and gals) take a look at the article and if you have experience with other bars and have recommendations, comments or any information to expand the handle bar page that you contact me and let me update the page. I am hoping this page will develop with your input - the users of different bars. For example, I know there are a number of you who are using the Desert Bars by Renthal - I would like your comments and impressions - I'll add them to the page! so, take a look at the article and contact me if you want to add to it. http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page43.html Thanks Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 08 Nov 1998 10:28:47 -0800 Yo Kurt Here is one for your list. How do you get your bike started with a dead battery? Morgan (who already knows the answer, having seen this movie once already) Carlsbad Ca. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dale Borgeson Subject: (klr650) Re: Bike computers Date: 08 Nov 1998 11:12:17 -0600 (CST) On Sat, 7 Nov 1998, klr650-digest wrote: > Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:16:49 -0500 > From: MRatta@ADE.com > Subject: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers > > I have a cycle computer I bought a few months ago on my KLX and I notice > that at higher speeds I have a large error.. at 80MPH I see 57MPH. I think > this has to do with sampling speed. Its made for the rotational speed of a > bicycle wheel. I'm sure I didnt help this any by mounting the magnet and > sensor on the brake disc, which is moving even faster. Have you noticed any > such errors on yours? Is yours mounted on the rim or spokes? Or is it > mounted lower? TIA :) I had problems when I initially mounted the system. The magnet is designed to mount on a bicycle spoke but the KLR spokes are too thick for this mounting method and it seemed ike too much work to modify the magnet. I mounted the magnet on the disk rotor at the same radius as the disk mounting bolts. I ran a piece of safety wire across the space between two "spokes" of the disk carrier with the magnet on the safety wire. This mounts the magnet 90 deg away from the way it was intended but it seems to work. You have to be real careful that the magnet does not stick out beyond the plane defined by the top of the disk mounting bolts as there is only a couple mm of clearance between the bolt tops and the caliper. The problem I had was intermittent high readings. I decided that the problem was caused by extra stray pulses in the pickup caused by the disk mounting bolts. Even though the bolts are not supposed to be magnetic they are steel and couldcause extra pulses. To fix this I gradually moved the sensor further away from the magnet so that the weaker bolt induced pulses would not be strong enough to cause trouble. YOur problem sounds like missing pulses. Is the magnet close enough to the pickup? What is the theoretical top speed indicated by your computer? What is the maximum tire circumference your computer supports? It would seem to me that if your tire circumference is within the range of the computer and the top speep indication is within the computer's capability you should not have overflow/underflow problems with the speed sensing part of the coomputer. Since you are getting low readings it seems more likely that the pickup is missing pulses and that is usually caused by the magnet being too far from the sensor. Cheers -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Linus Subject: (klr650) Wire harness deterioration Date: 09 Nov 1998 08:51:09 +0800 Talking about wire gauges,I have experienced a deterioration in current carrying capacity of the KLR wire harness.Try checking the voltage across your headlamp bulb when it`s on,i was getting around 10 volts!! If you are using a 80W-100W bulb,i guess it will strain the wiring even more and the effects could be only seen after a few years. Has anybody experienced this low voltage problem on their older KLR`s? BTW my battery is OK shows 12+ volts with the headlamp on. Linus KLR-Tengai 90 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Re: Electrics Date: 08 Nov 1998 17:52:10 PST > "Current carrying capacity is defined as the amperage a conductor > can carry before either melting the conductor or the insulator." And for real use, I'd derate those figures by 100%. (12ga for 20A, 14ga for 15A, 16ga for 10A.) While meltdown IS a serious problem, don't forget the higher resistance in the smaller wire. Power that would normally be going to the device (like a headlight) is being used to heat the wire, instead. The end result... a dimmer light. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Electrics Date: 08 Nov 1998 20:11:58 -0700 >While meltdown IS a serious problem, don't forget the higher resistance >in the smaller wire. Power that would normally be going to the device >(like a headlight) is being used to heat the wire, instead. The end >result... a dimmer light. > >Paul Paul, The fact that the minimum wire gauge that can be used in the circuits of our bike is the reason that when Tom and I increased the the wire size of our headlamp circuit, our light output was noticeably brighter. We both shortened the run by going straight from the battery, through circuit protection, through relays, to the light. This bypassed, the run through the key switch and up through the dimmer switch, which represents a long run of wire. Also, if you didn`t read the earlier post on this, the rating of 16amps for 18AWG (gauge) 28 stranded wire (which is what my bike had for it`s light conductor) from my Industry charts, is a max. rating for a conductor in free air, 14(12) volts, for a run of 5feet, and is not derated. On the KLR, the conductor is not in free air, it is in a bundle, and that gives a max. current rating of 10amps, period. That is NOT a derated figure. Skip (who believes short runs are better in the long run) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Wire harness deterioration Date: 08 Nov 1998 20:24:17 -0700 >Talking about wire gauges,I have experienced a deterioration in current >carrying >capacity of the KLR wire harness.Try checking the voltage across your >headlamp bulb when it`s on,i was getting around 10 volts!! >If you are using a 80W-100W bulb,i guess it will strain the wiring even >more and the effects could be only seen after a few years. >Has anybody experienced this low voltage problem on their older KLR`s? >BTW my battery is OK shows 12+ volts with the headlamp on. > >Linus >KLR-Tengai 90 Linus, Try checking your battery voltage with the headlight fuse pulled. Then check your voltage across your headlight connectors with them disconnected from the light (with the fuse back in) and compare those readings. It`s true that over time a conductor that is drawing close to max or is regularly having above 80% of max draw through the conductor will develop increased resistance as the conductor material thermal qualities change. Also, age and corrosion will result in higher resistance. I`m not familiar with the Tengai`s wiring, so I don`t know if there are other circuits piggy backed on to your light harness as is the case with the KLR. Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Subject: (klr650) Storage procedures... Date: 08 Nov 1998 19:30:46 -0800 Kurt S. mentioned previously to drain the fuel bowl during burial, waiting for my manual....... Is it as simple as the small key way at the bottom of the carb. pointing toward you, on the right side of the bike, 'turn drain tighten'? If not, how?? Draining of the carb. must be done after putting oil into plug hole and cranking?? If this is done doesn't an empty fuel bowl have more of an opportunity to collect humidity/rust, than a full bowl of clean fuel & stabil. Also in regards to the wiring to the tail lamp/LP/Signals, I would recommend replacing all wires to 16 gauge, re-routing and heat shrinking it all up to the 'new' breaker. Also running a bead of caulking along the inner edge of the fender and the under side of the seat/rack, to keep the wheel area sealed from the newly routed wiring. For it's simplicity, definitely worth the advantages, why didn't Kawa think so?? Thanks Brian A12 CE 7k zzzz,zzz (any recommendations for improving frt. harness..) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Electrics Date: 08 Nov 1998 22:33:10 -0500 At 08:11 PM 11/8/98 -0700, skip faulkner wrote: > > > > >>While meltdown IS a serious problem, don't forget the higher resistance >>in the smaller wire. Power that would normally be going to the device >>(like a headlight) is being used to heat the wire, instead. The end >>result... a dimmer light. >> >>Paul > >Paul, > The fact that the minimum wire gauge that can be used in the circuits of >our bike is the reason that when Tom and I increased the the wire size of >our headlamp circuit, our light output was noticeably brighter. We both >shortened the run by going straight from the battery, through circuit >protection, through relays, to the light. This bypassed, the run through the >key switch and up through the dimmer switch, which represents a long run of >wire. > Also, if you didn`t read the earlier post on this, the rating of 16amps >for 18AWG (gauge) 28 stranded wire (which is what my bike had for it`s light >conductor) from my Industry charts, is a max. rating for a conductor in free >air, 14(12) volts, for a run of 5feet, and is not derated. On the KLR, the >conductor is not in free air, it is in a bundle, and that gives a max. >current rating of 10amps, period. That is NOT a derated figure. > > Skip (who believes short runs are better in the long run) BTW, I have been running my wiring mod for the KLR now for about a year with shockingly few problems. It *realy* worked (somewhat to my suprise) :) I ran 10 gauge. I was tired of screwing with it and wanted it *fixed*. 10 ga. is not much smaller than what Kawasaki used for the ground lead off of the battery. :) -Tom '96 KLR 650 30,600 mi. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) Re: reflective tape Date: 08 Nov 1998 21:39:44 +0000 JD asked about reflective tape. I've used Gall's Inc of Louisville, KY. They are a public safety supplier. www.gallsinc.com 800-477-7766 Their tape is 3MScotchlite available in 1,2,3, or 4 inch by 60" rolls. Prices range from $4.99 to 12.99. They offer 9 colors. I have black on my BMW saddlebags. They reflect white at night and are almost invisible during the day. The tape has been on my bike for 2 seasons and has not peeled. GREAT stuff!!! Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL 88 K75S 98 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: reflective tape Date: 08 Nov 1998 22:44:37 -0500 At 09:39 PM 11/8/98 +0000, Alex Jomarron wrote: >JD asked about reflective tape. > >I've used Gall's Inc of Louisville, KY. They are a public safety supplier. > >www.gallsinc.com >800-477-7766 > >Their tape is 3MScotchlite available in 1,2,3, or 4 inch by 60" rolls. Prices range from $4.99 to >12.99. They offer 9 colors. I have black on my BMW saddlebags. They reflect white at night and >are almost invisible during the day. The tape has been on my bike for 2 seasons and has not >peeled. GREAT stuff!!! El Cheapo plan B: go to your local heavy truck supply center and get some of that red and white reflecive tape that that now have to wrap the trailers in. Highly reflective and only about $1.10 a foot. -Tom '96 KLR 650 *Highly* reflective ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) KLR Northern Illinois Date: 08 Nov 1998 23:03:41 EST Are we still planning to meet in Waconda this coming Saturday? I will be there. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) EZ wiring Date: 08 Nov 1998 23:20:44 -0500 To the abundant population of EE types on the list: My Triumph catalogs have a wiring system based on 3 wires to run the entire bike. Somewhere in the system is a closed/sealed unit that regulates electron behavior. Anyone know of a similar unit for KLR's? Most of these units retail for around $70. Could this "3 wire" simplicity be converted or developed to/for the KLR without much headache? Jake (who realizes comparing KLR's to Triumphs is like comparing apples to rotten oranges.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fuses Date: 08 Nov 1998 21:20:27 -0700 > >I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the >left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was > >After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against >the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a >lot of weather and water there. I >One good point >someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at >night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one >tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might >reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can >get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. > >Bill > Bill, If you`re going to use blade fuses, they make waterproof holders for them. When I get organized enough to post the breaker installation, you will see that I mounted mine in a small plastic box that protects them and also looks good. I`ve been in several hard rain storms on a couple of trips and no problems, they are well protected. Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fuses Date: 08 Nov 1998 23:30:16 -0500 At 09:20 PM 11/8/98 -0700, skip faulkner wrote: >> >>I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the >>left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was > >> >>After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against >>the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a >>lot of weather and water there. I >>One good point >>someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at >>night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one >>tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might >>reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can >>get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. >> >>Bill >> > > Bill, > If you`re going to use blade fuses, they make waterproof holders for >them. When I get organized enough to post the breaker installation, you will >see that I mounted mine in a small plastic box that protects them and also >looks good. I`ve been in several hard rain storms on a couple of trips and >no problems, they are well protected. Pep Boys selld some nice rubberized in-line "Mini-fuse" holders for about $2 each. Work great. -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) KLR electrics Date: 08 Nov 1998 21:59:38 -0700 Man, I thought I was going to run out of modification ideas for my bike. Does any body know how many watts of electricity the KLR650 can generate for auxiliary lighting? When I do the rewiring, I want to install some aux off road lights. As well as a simple alarm, and maybe a audio chirper to remind me to shut off my turn signal. And what about a power supply source for a cell phone charger, radar dector, or GPS. Maybe I should install some woofers and a 500watt amp, buy a lowering kit and get some fuzzy dingle balls for my mirrors. Hey any of you guys like rap music? Barff! Hahahahaha... Tony in Phoenix. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) Storage procedures... Date: 09 Nov 1998 00:10:29 -0500 It is infact the area you just described and the process is simply that simple. Expect the allen bolt to be a little tenacious in its seat. Bust a knuckle. Jake Brian wrote: > > Kurt S. mentioned previously to drain the fuel bowl during > burial, waiting for my manual....... Is it as simple as the small key > way at the bottom of the carb. pointing toward you, on the right side of > the bike, 'turn drain tighten'? If not, how?? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR electrics Date: 09 Nov 1998 00:13:09 -0500 Don't forget the neon ground effects lights for the skidplate and the pulsating sparkplug cap (in either blue, red, yellow, or green). Tony wrote: > > Man, I thought I was going to run out of modification ideas for my > bike. Does any body know how many watts of electricity the KLR650 can > generate for auxiliary lighting? > When I do the rewiring, I want to install some aux off road lights. As > well as a simple alarm, and maybe a audio chirper to remind me to shut > off my turn signal. And what about a power supply source for a cell > phone charger, radar dector, or GPS. > Maybe I should install some woofers and a 500watt amp, buy a lowering > kit and get some fuzzy dingle balls for my mirrors. Hey any of you guys > like rap music? Barff! Hahahahaha... > Tony in Phoenix. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Triphenia@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 09 Nov 1998 09:54:06 EST Hello guys, Got the cylinder and piston out! I couldn't find a valve spring compressor from friends that worked so I just gave the head to the local shop so they can replace the the oil seals and lap the valves. It shouldn't be too expensive. Got a question though, is using oven cleaner to clean a the carbon off the piston safe, is it effective? You will have a much safer (for your eyes and skin) time using good old WD-40. Just spray it on, let it soak, and _carefully_ scrape crud off. I've done it lots of times. If you want the easy route, get a can of carburetor cleaner (a 1 gallon soak can, with a basket) and let 'em sit overnight. The stuff will just rinse off. The problem with this route is getting rid of the carb cleaner, talk about toxic waste!!! Jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: markking Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (klr) Bike computers Date: 09 Nov 1998 09:54:55 -0800 Radians per second anyone ? :-) Todd Emsley wrote: > > I am just wondering how many more revolutions your rotor turns versus > the > actual wheel ? : ) > > Brian wins the fast thinker award, this one > tricked me for a minute. > > Todd A11 > > Wilmington, Delaware ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: markking Subject: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 10:01:09 -0800 I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how slow (fast) it really is. Has any magazine ever done 0-60 or standing 1/4 times on this bike. I am just trying to get a feel for how it will go on the road. Mark No bike at the moment ex Yamaha 600 Diversion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 11:14:53 -0700 >I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how >slow (fast) it really is. Has any magazine ever done 0-60 or standing >1/4 times on this bike. I am just trying to get a feel for how it will >go on the road. > 1/4 Mile Stats for the family: August 1988 Cycle = 13.94 sec at 88.30 MPH July 1990 Cycle = 14.11 sec at 87.79 MPH (TENGAI) May 1990 Cycle World = 13.98 sec at 89.82 MPH (TENGAI) September 1990 Cycle World = 14,53 sec at 88.23 MPH April, 1993 Cycle World = 14.03 MPH at 90.24 (KLX650) Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 13:29:52 EST On 11/9/98, markking@geocities.com wrote: snip >KLR650...was just wondering how slow (fast) it really is. The U.S. version will outrun grizzly bear. I'm told the Australian KLR600 will leave wombats dead last. R. Ron <-Radiating at an unknown rate in Redondo PS the following info (thanks Steve) was lifted from... http://www.ionet.net/~jhanna/KLRFAQ.HTML 1/4 mile:13.9 sec.@88.3 MPH 0-60 MPH: 4.74 seconds 45-70 MPH (3) 3.9 sec. 338 ft. (4) 4.7 Sec. 400 ft. (5) 5.9 sec. 506 ft. Braking 60-0 MPH 153 ft Engine RPM @ 60 MPH 4186 Maximum speed in gears @7500 RPM: (1) 37 (2) 56 (3) 72 (4) 89 (5) 107 Top Gear 40-60 mph 5.1 seconds Top Gear 60-80 mph 6.2 seconds ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 12:25:45 -0700 If you are thinking of 0-60 and 1/4-mile times, you might be thinking of the wrong sort of bike. Let's say that the KLR650 is decently quick, but its strengths lie in other areas. FWIW, -r-r markking wrote: > I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how > slow (fast) it really is. Has any magazine ever done 0-60 or standing > 1/4 times on this bike. I am just trying to get a feel for how it will > go on the road. > > Mark > > No bike at the moment > ex Yamaha 600 Diversion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Wright Subject: Re: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 06 Nov 1998 08:20:03 -0500 Stuart Heaslet wrote: > Kurt, > > One question could be- > "What's the difference between the KLR and other dual sport motorcycles?" Last month at the TransAlp Rally in Black Rock Mountain State Park, Georgia, Pete T. explained to a passerby the difference between a KLR and a real dual sport motorcycle. :-) Bill Wright Hotlanta, GA. 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 20k miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Stainless Steel Date: 09 Nov 1998 15:05:29 I 've replaced the exhaust pipe heat shield screws with stainless steel 6x10mm, pan head, phillips screws and stainless flat and split-lock washers. These screws are slightly longer than the black, stock screws but fit just fine. I noticed that the threads on the two screws attaching the heat shield under the carburetor were starting to deteriorate, basically rusting away quite quickly, probably due to the many heat/cool cycles these screws endure. I placed two spare screw/washer sets in the two empty 6mm holes left when I removed the stock handguards to install the Acerbis guards. So I've got a couple of spares handy if the stainless steel screws jump ship. I also put one screw/washer set in one of the empty holes in the license plate and held it on with a 6mm nyloc nut. In the other empty license plate hole I put a 5x16mm spare stainless steel screw (and washers) and stainless steel nyloc nut. I replaced the two lower right fuel tank fairing mounting screws with these screws and nyloc nuts so they will never fall out again. One had fallen out and the dealer put a homemade screw and sheet metal nut on to replace the factory screw and hex nut. Much ham-fistedness here :-( The stainless steel hardware is expensive and kinda hard to get. I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr in New Jersey. Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 12:10:43 PST >I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how >slow (fast) it really is. Fast? I've had it over 85 MPH. Going uphill. Others reported the numbers, but in real world, 300+ pound rider: - Gets across the intersection before cars in the opposite direction get across the crosswalk - Easily makes highway speed by the end of a short acceleration lane - Still has "too much power" (wife's words) when riding with a passenger (~500 lbs total) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 15:08:01 -0500 I've had my KLX up to 110mph at 7000rpm. Redline is 7500. If you want to spend the extra cash, it has some very nice suspension and is quite fast. - >I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how >slow (fast) it really is. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR electrics Date: 09 Nov 1998 12:28:47 PST >Does any body know how many watts of electricity the KLR650 can >generate for auxiliary lighting? According to the manual, the alternator creates 14A @ 8000 RPM. Since most people don't usually cruise at 500 RPM over redline, actual output is less than that; probably about 8-10A (100-120W) at cruising speed. Standard running configuration has a 55W headlight, 10W on the back end (tail/license), and another 10W for meter lights. Add in the occasional brake (20W) and turn signal (45W for both front and rear), plus actually charging the battery after a start. Remembering that the alternator produces even less power at idle, and you can see the system is pretty well fully loaded. >When I do the rewiring, I want to install some aux off road lights. >As well as a simple alarm, and maybe a audio chirper to remind me to >shut off my turn signal. And what about a power supply source for a >cell phone charger, radar dector, or GPS. I don't know if it can handle the off road lights (maybe short duration), but the others are low power devices. There's certainly enough to run the GPS, radar detector, and your alerting devices. Probably even the cell phone charger, since it's not a continuous draw. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE klr650@lists.xmission.com: Admin request of type /\buns\w*b/i at line 7 Date: 09 Nov 1998 13:52:36 -0700 -----Original Message----- /\buns\w*b/i at line 7 >>From CameronCole@infocure.com Mon Nov 09 12:37:00 1998 >Received: from [209.195.29.34] (helo=atlanta1.infocure.com) > by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) > id 0zcx7T-00054q-00 > for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 9 Nov 1998 12:36:59 -0700 >Received: by ATLANTA1 with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2232.9) > id ; Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:36:57 -0500 >Message-ID: <07397497BCF7D111AC2A00805FBEB79875BC16@ATLANTA1> >From: Cameron Cole >To: "'klr650@lists.xmission.com'" >Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR performance >Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:35:26 -0500 >MIME-Version: 1.0 >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2232.9) >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" > >The KLR is slow by motorcycle standards. However, if you are coming from a >car you will find it quite quick. Just from riding the bike I would say it >does 0-60 in around five seconds and 1/4 mile in 15. I didn't use a >stopwatch, but did race a friends stock 98 Firebird. After the mods (pipe, >jet, and more appropriate off road gearing), it shaved about a second in the >0-60 and 2 in the quarter mile. After the mods it doesn't have the 100+ top >end anymore (more like 90), but the KLR is relatively unstable (not >undriveable) over 85 anyway (don't flame me, this just an opinion). > >For some real current numbers, you can try Bike magazine. They have a small >section in the back on bikes they have tested in real world conditions with >top speed, 0-60, and quarter mile runs. > >The KLR is a good bike, but if you want performance look at a real street >bike or KTM's new dual-sport beast. > >-----Original Message----- >From: bruixot@rmi.net [mailto:bruixot@rmi.net] >Sent: Monday, November 09, 1998 2:26 PM >To: markking >Cc: klr650@lists.xmission.com >Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance > > >If you are thinking of 0-60 and 1/4-mile times, you might be thinking of >the wrong sort of bike. Let's say that the KLR650 is decently quick, but >its strengths lie in other areas. > >FWIW, > >-r-r > >markking wrote: > >> I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how >> slow (fast) it really is. Has any magazine ever done 0-60 or standing >> 1/4 times on this bike. I am just trying to get a feel for how it will >> go on the road. >> >> Mark >> >> No bike at the moment >> ex Yamaha 600 Diversion > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alyef@juno.com (Alex Yefimov) Subject: Re: (klr650) Stainless Steel Date: 09 Nov 1998 16:25:18 EST On Mon, 09 Nov 1998 15:05:29 "R. Kaub" writes: >The stainless steel hardware is expensive and kinda hard to get. I >ordered >mine from McMaster-Carr in New Jersey. Thanks. >Bob Kaub >State University of New York >PO Box 6000 >Binghamton, NY 13902 >607-777-2715 > For a better selection and probably a better price try: Mr. Metric 1080 North 11th Street San Jose, CA 95112 (800) 944-1897 or Pro Fasteners and Compontents San Jose CA (800) 284-3776 Note: Screws lengths are nominal, so all screws that are said to be '1 in. long' very according to manfacturer. Alex San Jose. CA ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) upscale driving lights Date: 09 Nov 1998 16:38:03 EST Members may have interest in this Thank you for your interest in EuroLights(tm). You'll need to let us know the bulb type for the BMW motorcycles aux. bulbs it should be stamped on the base of the bulbs. EuroLights - TypeH4 for Headlight High/Lowbeam. Prices are as follows: TypeH4-High Intensity White: $50.00 per pair TypeH4-Plus Blue/White UltraSharp** (80/100)***: $40.00 per pair TypeH4-Blue/Gold SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair TypeH4-Yellow SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair EuroLights for your SVX are Type9006 for low beams and Type9005 for high beams and TypeH3 for foglights. Prices are as follows: Type9006-High Intensity White: $50.00 per pair Type9006-Plus Blue/White UltraSharp** (80watts Lowbeam)***: $40.00 per pair Type9006-Blue/Gold SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair Type9006-Yellow SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair We also have ClearPlus9006 (80/100)*** as well: $20.00per pair Type9005-Plus Blue/White UltraSharp** (100watts Highbeam)***: $40.00 per pair Type9005-Blue/Gold SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair Type9005-Yellow SuperBright Ion : $40.00per pair TypeH3-Plus Blue/White UltraSharp:$28.00 per pair TypeH3-Blue/Gold ION : $28.00 per pair TypeH3-Yellow ION : $28.00 per pair **EuroLights-Plus offer factory brightness along with Blue/White HID/Xenon look light output. ***Original Equipment bulbs are 55watt lowbeam /65watt high beam...our high powered versions are 80/100. Here are the differences: High Intensity White: These bulbs project an intense white light output with a color temperature and performance very close to that of HID/Xenon lights. While appearing standard yellow to other drivers. Offer a dramatic increase in performance. Blue/White UltraSharp: Bulbs are coated with a proprietary ceramic type coating allowing them to produce a blue/white HID/Xenon Look light and appear Blue/White to other drivers...Note: Coating slightly reduces brightness.These units are mainly for those concerned with blue/white HID/Xenon look. Blue/Gold Ion: Ion coated bulb produces a dramatic SuperBright blue/gold light. Coating increases actual brightness 25%. Yellow Ion: Ion coated bulb produces a dramatic SuperBright yellow light.Coating increases actual brightness 25%.These units offer high performance increase especially in harsh weather such as rain, fog, snow. ClearPlus: Non-coated high powered bulb....80watt lowbeam/100watt high beam All EuroLights are direct replacements and are for use with stock wiring, lenses, etc... All EuroLights are backed up by our----90 Day free replacement warranty. Please add $10.00 for USPS COD Priority shipping (up to 3 sets). If you'd like to order please let us know which units you'd like and quantity. We will also need your complete name, mailing address, phone number to complete your order. Your order will be sent by COD so you pay nothing until it is delivered to you. If you have any other questions do not hesitate in contacting us :) Regards, Kris @EuroLights Beware of Imitators...True EuroLights(tm) are NOT available anywhere else. We are The ONLY Importer/Manufacturer of The Original EuroLights(tm) Germany. Check out our web page at: http:www.EuroLights.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Stuart Heaslet Subject: NKLR (klr650) FAQ Date: 09 Nov 1998 20:33:41 -0500 >> One question could be- >> "What's the difference between the KLR and other dual sport motorcycles?" >Last month at the TransAlp Rally in Black Rock Mountain State Park, Georgia, >Pete T. explained to a passerby the difference between a KLR and a real dual >sport motorcycle. :-) That's right up there with "Too bad you didn't have a choice of color" to a new Porche owner. :-) Stuart ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) Top speed Date: 09 Nov 1998 17:32:44 PST >12:14 Mon 11/09/98 From : RE: (klr650) KLR >performance > >I've had my KLX up to 110mph at 7000rpm. Redline is 7500. If you >want to >spend the extra cash, it has some very nice suspension and is quite fast. I haven't tried for top speed yet on my KLX (Cobra pipe and Dynojet stage 2) but this seems quite high for stock. Have you done any performance mods? Marick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Hutchings" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Northern Illinois Date: 09 Nov 1998 19:41:22 -0800 I'll be there. -----Original Message----- >Are we still planning to meet in Waconda this coming Saturday? > >I will be there. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) WINDY CITY KLRists BREAKFAST REMINDER Date: 09 Nov 1998 16:42:08 +0000 The breakfast is still on! In fact, I ate there the last 2 Saturdays (once with the BMW guys and the other with the family)!!! THE DETAILS::::::::::::::: PLEASE RSVP WITH ME BY THURSDAY SO WE KNOW IF IT IS STILL ON & SO I CAN HAVE A TABLE READY!! When: Saturday, November 14th @ 9 am. Where: Main Street Cafe in Wauconda, IL Why: GREAT breakfasts & KLR Komaraderie How: The Main Street Cafe is located on Main Street in Wauconda. It is near the intersection of routes 12 & 176. The easiest way to get there is get to Route 53. Then take Route 53 north to the end. Take Lake-Cook west over to Route 12. Take Route12 north (right) to Route 176. Exit east bound. Main Street is about two miles east of the intersection of 12/176. Turn left at the stop light (there is a fire station on the corner). After turning left, the Cafe is one block down on the right side corner. NOTE: IF IT IS BELOW 40 DEGREES AT O'HARE, SNOWING, OR RAINING (hard) THIS BREAKFAST WILL BE POSTPONED UNTIL SPRING ON THE ACCOUNT OF WIMPINESS! Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL needing to wash his A12 to make a good first impression!! <--FUGEDABOUDIT!!! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: RE: (klr650) WINDY CITY KLRists BREAKFAST REMINDER Date: 09 Nov 1998 21:13:04 -0600 I'll be in if not raining. And above 35 degrees. Although the above weather is typical for our area.. Kenny South Elgin A12 P.S. How's the biscuits & gravy? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James F McFaden Subject: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise Date: 09 Nov 1998 21:51:05 -0600 Hi All, First, thanks for all the replies and info on my new KLR's engine noise. It wasn't detonation or anything that easy. The dealer where I bought it said it was piston slap, and normal for this bike. I took it to another dealer and he said it was crankshaft or rod bearing noise which is normal for this bike and he couldn't do anything unless a service rep said fix it. I talked to a service rep in Santa Ana, California and he said the engine is normally noisy and he couldn't do anything unless the dealer said it needed fixing. Is that "Catch 22"? Anyhow I guess I'm stuck with a clanker. Too bad, it's a nice bike otherwise, except for the brakes. It's a good thing this bike has a lot of engine braking because that's half of the braking system. I can't believe it passed any DOT braking tests. I think I'm going to trade it in for a DR650SE. It's 20 pounds lighter, has dual piston brakes and you can't hear it coming a block away. Jim in Dallas ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: markking Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR performance Date: 09 Nov 1998 20:59:55 -0800 You have hit the nail on the head. As long as the KLR is "decently quick" it means that riding from the bay area to those jeep trails in the Sierras will be OK and I can still have a blast up the Santa cruz mountain roads (comlete with sink holes) on a Sunday morning. It sounds like the KLR650 is the bike for me. The performance bench marks were the only way I could think of quantifying the KLR's traffic performance compared to my last bike. bruixot@rmi.net wrote: > > If you are thinking of 0-60 and 1/4-mile times, you might be thinking of > the wrong sort of bike. Let's say that the KLR650 is decently quick, but > its strengths lie in other areas. > > FWIW, > > -r-r > > markking wrote: > > > I am looking to get a KLR650 in the Spring and was just wondering how > > slow (fast) it really is. Has any magazine ever done 0-60 or standing > > 1/4 times on this bike. I am just trying to get a feel for how it will > > go on the road. > > > > Mark > > > > No bike at the moment > > ex Yamaha 600 Diversion ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Wright Subject: Re: (klr650) Stainless Steel Date: 10 Nov 1998 07:14:41 -0500 R. Kaub wrote: > I 've replaced the exhaust pipe heat shield screws with stainless steel > 6x10mm, pan head, phillips screws and stainless flat and split-lock > washers. These screws are slightly longer than the black, stock screws but > fit just fine. > I noticed that the threads on the two screws attaching the heat shield > under the carburetor were starting to deteriorate, basically rusting away > quite quickly, probably due to the many heat/cool cycles these screws endure. > One had fallen out and the dealer put a homemade screw and sheet metal nut > on to replace the factory screw and hex nut. Much ham-fistedness here :-( Robert, Its amazing how many dealers/service managers think that they can make a 1/4 X 20 bolt fit into a 6mm hole. This is what happened to me when one of the bolts from the heat shield came out last spring. Last week I tried to remove it and of course it twisted off. OUCH! Now I've got to drill it out and retap the threads. I am moving to stainless steel hardware also. I found an ACE hardware that has 3 aisles of stainless steel hardware. Home Depot also has a decent selection. BTW, what the heck is a motorcycle dealership doing with 1/4 X 20 bolts on the premises. Bill Wright Hotlanta, GA. (and rainy this week) 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 20k miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) Isreali needs NY or LA dealer info Date: 10 Nov 1998 05:51:21 PST A kLX rider in Israel (sharon Valkovich) is looking for a good Kawi dealer in NY or LA. His wife is visiting in a couple of days and he hopes she can pick up some parts. If any of you have recommendations, please reply to him at SHARONV@Amdocs.com. Thanks, Marick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Scott E. Phares" Subject: (klr650) Acerbis Disc and fork protector Date: 10 Nov 1998 08:08:38 -0600 I am looking for a new Acerbis front disc and fork protector for my '99 KLR650. I called Acerbis and several distributors and was told Acerbis has dis- continued this item. Anyone know of anyplace that may still have some in stock or where I can get one? =A0 I think as a group, we need to let Acerbis know that they need to bring this item back into stock, as there seem to be enough KLR650 owners that would want this protector also. I think it really adds a great look to the bike besides its functionality. =A0 Thanks, =A0 Scott E. Phares Owner/Consultant/MCSE Computer Systems & Networking Services, Inc. 512-918-0250 FAX 512-378-3102 http://www.compnetservices.com sphares@compnetservices.com =A0 =A0 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com Subject: (klr650) Re: I am taking her apart Date: 10 Nov 1998 09:11:18 -0500 >Got a question though, is using oven cleaner to clean a the carbon off >the piston safe, is it effective? Spray the oven cleaner on a piece of aluminum foil and watch it melt! I *think* that the piston would have some traces of aluminum that would be dissolved by the oven cleaner. I would strongly suggest against using the oven cleaner. I am sure the local auto parts store has a bottle of something for this job. Pat Austin, TX (not a chemist) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rcklr@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use split-fires? Date: 10 Nov 1998 09:18:33 EST This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_910707514_boundary Content-ID: <0_910707514@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII In a message dated 11/10/98 4:55:45 AM Central Standard Time, sandy.tuck@cmb.pcc.philips.com writes: << Does anyone have any experience with Split-fire plugs? I bought one a while ago, meaning to bung it in my T=E9n=E9r=E9, but when I mentioned it= at my local bike shop, I got responses along the lines of "Great! We'd love to sell you a new piston". I haven't seen any criticisms of them in the mags (not that that means much), but theres obviously some horror stories going around somewhere, so do ant DUSTers have any thoughts on them? >> I have about 6k on my '93 KLR using SplitFires. No damage to report, but then again I haven't torn 'er down either. Question I have is how can a better spark destroy a piston? It's not like you're changing timing or anything. Anyway, that's my $.02 worth. MN Ron --part0_910707514_boundary Content-ID: <0_910707514@inet_out.mail.cmb.pcc.philips.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-zc02.mx.aol.com (rly-zc02.mail.aol.com [172.31.33.2]) by air-zc04.mail.aol.com (v51.16) with SMTP; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 05:55:45 1900 Received: from bodhi.dorje.com (inet-gw.dorje.com [199.45.131.14]) by rly-zc02.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0) with ESMTP id FAA24799; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 05:55:35 -0500 (EST) Received: from bodhi (localhost.dorje.com [127.0.0.1]) by bodhi.dorje.com (8.7.1/8.6.9) with SMTP id DAA20712; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 03:51:38 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <3.0.5.16.19981110105217.32d77daa@smtp-host> Errors-To: gnome@dorje.com Reply-To: dust@dorje.com Originator: dust@dorje.com Sender: dust@dorje.com Precedence: bulk X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas X-Comment: Dual Sport Touring list X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Light Version 3.0.5 (16) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Since traffic is fairly light, I hope you'll forgive a question thats a little off-topic, but been bugging me: Does anyone have any experience with Split-fire plugs? I bought one a while ago, meaning to bung it in my T=E9n=E9r=E9, but when I mentioned it= at my local bike shop, I got responses along the lines of "Great! We'd love to sell you a new piston". I haven't seen any criticisms of them in the mags (not that that means much), but theres obviously some horror stories going around somewhere, so do ant DUSTers have any thoughts on them? <> __________________________________________________________ {~.".~} Sandy.Tuck@cmb.pcc.philips.com Philips Consumer Communications ( Y ) P.O. Box 353, St Andrews Road ()~*~() Cambridge Tel: +44 (0)1223 44 2163 _( )_( )_ CB4 1ZS Fax: +44 (0)1223 351517 =20 --part0_910707514_boundary-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: I am taking her apart Date: 10 Nov 1998 07:31:57 -0700 -----Original Message----- > >Got a question though, is using oven cleaner to clean a the carbon off > >the piston safe, is it effective? > > Spray the oven cleaner on a piece of aluminum foil and watch it melt! I > *think* that the piston would have some traces of aluminum that would be > dissolved by the oven cleaner. I would strongly suggest against using > the oven cleaner. I am sure the local auto parts store has a bottle of > something for this job. > > Pat > Austin, TX > (not a chemist) > > > I use PJ1 Contact Cleaner to help loosen carbon on heads, cylinders & plugs. But nothing beats a little "elbow grease" with a wire brush and scraper. Contact Cleaner is great for cleaning all kinds of things because it flushes out contaminants, dries fast and doesn't leave any residue. Every tool box should have some. Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use split-fires? Date: 10 Nov 1998 07:57:33 -0700 -----Original Message----- >In a message dated 11/10/98 4:55:45 AM Central Standard Time, >sandy.tuck@cmb.pcc.philips.com writes: > ><< Does anyone have any experience with Split-fire plugs? I bought one a > while ago, meaning to bung it in my T=E9n=E9r=E9, but when I mentioned it= > at my > local bike shop, I got responses along the lines of "Great! We'd love to > sell you a new piston". I haven't seen any criticisms of them in the > mags (not that that means much), but theres obviously some horror stories > going around somewhere, so do ant DUSTers have any thoughts on them? > >> > >I have about 6k on my '93 KLR using SplitFires. No damage to report, but then >again I haven't torn 'er down either. Question I have is how can a better >spark destroy a piston? It's not like you're changing timing or anything. >Anyway, that's my $.02 worth. > >MN Ron > If the Splitfire is a direct replacement for the OEM plug then there should be no chance of the plug causing problems with the piston. Trouble is that Splitfire lumps a whole lot of other plugs into one category and makes one replacement for them. When they advertise that using their plugs will give you an extra 5HP you have to wonder how good the Splitfire can be with statements like that. If I were to put a Splitfire in my lawn mower does that mean that my mower will now have an extra 5HP....I don't think so! Using two sparks to ignite the gas/air mixture is a good idea but having them that close together is probably not the best. I doubt that you will realize the difference in price between a good NGK and the Splitfire, but if it makes you feel better, go for it. (just my 7.95 worth) ;) Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: snsi@win.bright.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use split-fires? Date: 10 Nov 1998 10:06:10 +0000 Howdy Minnesota Ron et al, I'm thinking this might be a UBM (Urban Biker Myth). I heard more than one friend of a friend story about the Split-fire electrodes being burnt through and falling in to and bouncing around on the cylinder. There seems to be two common threads in these stories; its always a 2-stroke and it never happened to the story teller but to some one he knows. Just a grain of salt. PS Ron, Enjoy the snow? Jeff Smith > << Does anyone have any experience with Split-fire plugs? I bought > one a > while ago, meaning to bung it in my T=E9n=E9r=E9, but when I > mentioned it= > at my > local bike shop, I got responses along the lines of "Great! We'd > love to sell you a new piston". I haven't seen any criticisms of > them in the mags (not that that means much), but theres obviously > some horror stories going around somewhere, so do ant DUSTers have > any thoughts on them? > >> > > I have about 6k on my '93 KLR using SplitFires. No damage to > report, but then again I haven't torn 'er down either. Question I > have is how can a better spark destroy a piston? It's not like > you're changing timing or anything. Anyway, that's my $.02 worth. > > MN Ron Jeff Smith Barnes, WI '71 A-HD Sprint 350; '97 Kawasaki KLR650 (King o'La Road) "Beware the dirt bike ... Ground shaking dirt bike" TMBG ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Eric Mercer Subject: (klr650) KLR wiring Date: 10 Nov 1998 09:40:47 -0800 (PST) There's been a lot of talk on this list about fuses blowing and KLR wiring but no mention of the connectors in the KLR wiring harness. There are several multi pin connectors on the KLR wiring harness. These are not water tight. When the headlight fuse blew on My KLR, I checked every connector on the bike and did find some corrosion. This may be where the unwanted resistance is in the circuit. Now once a year I pull each connector apart, spray in some WD-40 and then reassemble. I have had no further electrical problems with the KLR(sold last year) or the Tengai. Eric Mercer B2 (TEN GUYS) Ukiah, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR wiring Date: 10 Nov 1998 13:46:18 -0500 For our lab's deep-sea electrical and pressure applications, we use "AquaLube". It's a blue greasy goo that looks like melted chewed gum. It comes in a tube and it's TOTALLY waterproof. You can probably get it at any marine dealer. Mark, B2 > There are several multi pin connectors on the KLR wiring harness. These >are not water tight. When the headlight fuse blew on My KLR, I checked every >connector on the bike and did find some corrosion. This may be where the >unwanted resistance is in the circuit. > > Now once a year I pull each connector apart, spray in some WD-40 and then >reassemble. I have had no further electrical problems with the KLR(sold last >year) or the Tengai. > >Eric Mercer >B2 (TEN GUYS) >Ukiah, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave & Sherry Kessler Subject: (klr650) No subject was specified. Date: 10 Nov 1998 14:01:11 -0500 Juan......I use a garmin GPS III on my bike.....Not only does it do all the funtions that you want.....It also allows you never to get lost!!! It has a back ground map of all the primary roads in north america ....Dave Kessler ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Josh Sammons" Subject: RE: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use Bosch Platinum +4's? Date: 10 Nov 1998 12:14:56 -0700 Has anyone heard of our used the new Bosch Platinum +4 sparkplugs? Just saw and ad in Car & Driver mag. Like a regular plug but has 4 arms coming out above the electrode vs. the usual 1. I've used Bosch plugs on all my cars and have been impressed with their performance and durability. Josh '92 klr650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR wiring Date: 10 Nov 1998 13:00:57 -0700 Eric Mercer wrote: > There's been a lot of talk on this list about fuses blowing and KLR > wiring but no mention of the connectors in the KLR wiring harness. Good point. There are two sources of additional resistance in that wiring. One, as mentioned, is the points at which connectors mate, which particularly in nasty humid/salty climates form deposits, and where even occasional soakings can cause dirty water to accumulate in connectorst. Another problem is the way the connectors are joined to the wires. Over time, the same type of deposits can form between wire and connector. In fact, a corroded crimp connection once cost me three days of vacation during a BMW ride in South America. One solution is to properly solder the wire to the connector, and then cover the connector with a piece of heat-shrink insulation. So when replacing wires with heavier gauge or whatever, go the extra measure and solder those joints using good quality, low-resistance, tight-fitting connectors. FWIW dr robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) GPS Mounts Date: 10 Nov 1998 13:13:05 PST I want to mount my Garmin GPS 12XL onto my KLR. Garmin makes a handlebar mount that I'm not that thrilled about; the rubber strip on the back of the GPS is replaced by a plastic piece, and it's that rubber strip that keeps the GPS from sliding around on the dash in the car. I have the snap-in car mount that, with the aid of a heavy rubber band, is quite sufficient to hold the unit for my riding (street and dirt roads, some light trail). My concern is with engine vibration. Do I need to do any kind of shock protection for this unit? I know about the CycoActive mount, but I dont want to pay $86 for it. Does anyone have road experience with a Garmin unit on their KLR? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim Sprecker" Subject: Re: (klr650) GPS Mounts Date: 10 Nov 1998 17:31:52 -0600 You can check out Saeng/TA for some high quality GPS mounts. I know them. Check there home page. http://www.saeng.com/ If you call, you'll probably talk to Paul, tell him Jim in Council Bluffs recommended them, He'll help you out. > jsprecker@uswest.net < >I want to mount my Garmin GPS 12XL onto my KLR. > >Garmin makes a handlebar mount that I'm not that thrilled about; the >rubber strip on the back of the GPS is replaced by a plastic piece, and >it's that rubber strip that keeps the GPS from sliding around on the >dash in the car. > >I have the snap-in car mount that, with the aid of a heavy rubber band, >is quite sufficient to hold the unit for my riding (street and dirt >roads, some light trail). > >My concern is with engine vibration. Do I need to do any kind of shock >protection for this unit? I know about the CycoActive mount, but I dont >want to pay $86 for it. > >Does anyone have road experience with a Garmin unit on their KLR? > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: (klr650) DSN newsletter update Date: 10 Nov 1998 18:47:28 EST For those who have been wondering were the first issue of Dual Sport News is, here is an update. The Nov/Dec issue was sent bulk mail (3rd class mail) on 10/30. I just talked with a bulk mail specialist at the USPS and he told me that 3rd class mail will take up to 3 weeks for delivery as it is the last batch of mail worked on after all of the 1st class mail is completed. So for those who have not received their issue, be patient, you should be seeing it soon. Also, let me know when you get it so that I can kind of keep track of the timing relative to geographical location. Thanks. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: Re: (klr650) DSN newsletter update Date: 10 Nov 1998 19:11:08 -0500 I live in Delaware, on the East coast. I got my DSN last week. Probably monday or tuesday. Go figure. Todd A11 Wilmington, Delaware ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: GVBettes@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #352 Date: 10 Nov 1998 19:14:00 EST In a message dated 11/10/98 3:50:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner- klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > > I have about 6k on my '93 KLR using SplitFires. No damage to report, but > then > again I haven't torn 'er down either. Question I have is how can a better > spark destroy a piston? It's not like you're changing timing or anything. > Anyway, that's my $.02 worth. > Why not just use a platinum plug. I have run these in many bikes and get extremely long life with no trouble at all. In 6,000 miles I don't even have to regap. For the KLR use NGK DP8EVX-9. Gary 2- A10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Matthew Duftler Subject: (klr650) Splitfire products Date: 10 Nov 1998 19:44:40 -0500 There was an article this month (in MCN, I believe) about Splitfire being on the losing end of a lawsuit stating that they were making false advertising claims (about the effects of their products). The catch was that instead of reimbursing their defrauded customers for the waste-of-money products, they give you more crap products (no cash, just crap). BTW, Slick50 was mentioned as going through the same type of lawsuit, with the same results, and the same sort of ridiculous settlement. -Matt Duftler Tarrytown, NY ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (Francis Smith) Subject: (klr650) Fwd: Splitfires Date: 10 Nov 1998 16:51:54 -0800 (PST) --WebTV-Mail-846335383-1624 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit --WebTV-Mail-846335383-1624 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Received: from mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net (mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net [207.79.35.91]) by postoffice-142.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/po.gso.24Feb98) with ESMTP id KAA17567; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:26:41 -0800 (PST) Received: from bodhi.dorje.com (inet-gw.dorje.com [199.45.131.14]) by mailsorter-101.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) with ESMTP id KAA09867; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:26:31 -0800 (PST) Received: from bodhi (localhost.dorje.com [127.0.0.1]) by bodhi.dorje.com (8.7.1/8.6.9) with SMTP id LAA24088; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:22:00 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <3648ADC2.78C3@erols.com> Errors-To: gnome@dorje.com Reply-To: dust@dorje.com Originator: dust@dorje.com Sender: dust@dorje.com Precedence: bulk X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas X-Comment: Dual Sport Touring list MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01 (Win95; I) If you haven't heard - Splitfire has lost a big court case for not being able to prove their advertisement claims of more horsepower and better fuel economy. Motorcycle Consumer News did a test on them a couple of years back and they proved bogus. Its o.k. I've spent money on them about 5 years ago. Money poorly spent. No damage though. Niv DR650 DC --WebTV-Mail-846335383-1624-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Hutchings" Subject: (klr650) Damage caused by SplitFires and the use of glue Date: 10 Nov 1998 19:45:18 -0800 You know, some people work with a lot of glue. " .... but when I mentioned it at my local bike shop, I got responses along the lines of "Great! We'd love to sell you a new piston". " Scary! Rob '99 KLR650 Buffalo Grove, IL (ChicagoLand) I'll be in Wauconda on Saturday as long it's not like today! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave & Sherry Kessler Subject: (klr650) GPS Mounts Date: 10 Nov 1998 21:36:12 -0500 Paul ...... I have looked at GPS mounts and I was not Impressed on their Quality ..... I came up with a mount for my GPS III ....Using Schedual 2 inch 40 PVC pipe ..... I cut off a 2 inch section of pipe ...then I cut a 2 inch piece out of the circle .....My GPS three then snaps into the PVC like a clamp.......I then strategicly cut a double slot in the back side of the PVC to run a 2 inch hose clamp thru .....Now I have a mount that I can attach to almost anything. I don't know if this will work on a Garmin 12 ...but you might want to check it out ......Dave Kessler PS To the person who was asking about the Garmin III ..... Yes it has bread crumbing feature on it and much more check out this news group to find out everything you want to know about GPS ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Disc and fork protector Date: 10 Nov 1998 21:45:08 -0500 At 06:17 PM 11/10/98 -0500, Scott E. Phares wrote: >I am looking for a new Acerbis front disc and fork >protector for my '99 KLR650. I called Acerbis and >several distributors and was told Acerbis has dis- >continued this item. Anyone know of anyplace that >may still have some in stock or where I can get >one? >=A0 >I think as a group, we need to let Acerbis know that >they need to bring this item back into stock, as there >seem to be enough KLR650 owners that would want >this protector also. I think it really adds a great look >to the bike besides its functionality. While we are at it, we need to let Acerbis know that the KLR is no longer made in the same color sceme it was prior to 1996. I cant picture using any of the colors they offered on the disk guard on my bike. Perhaps thats why sales for their KLR stuff went into the dumper of late. -Tom '96 KLR 650 The non-teal, non-white one.=20 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Damage caused by SplitFires and the use of glue Date: 10 Nov 1998 21:48:47 -0500 At 07:45 PM 11/10/98 -0800, Robert Hutchings wrote: >You know, some people work with a lot of glue. > >" .... but when I mentioned it at my local bike shop, I got responses >along the lines of "Great! We'd love to sell you a new piston". " I seen what happened once when a Splitfire tine came off inside of a 2-stroke personal watercraft engine. The piston crown looked like a thousand gerbils on amphetimines had attacked it with tiny ball peen hammers. I'll pass on that sort of fun, thank you. -Tom '96 KLR 650 has good luck with ND plugs. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Acerbis Disc and fork protector Date: 10 Nov 1998 22:02:17 EST In a message dated 11/10/98 6:48:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, bullet@scsn.net writes: << I cant picture using any of the colors they offered on the disk guard on my bike. >> In my 1998 catalog, the only color they offered it in was white. I think it looks great on the 96' and up KLR's (Check out Bill H's picture on the DSN website). No weird colors were offered at all. Too bad they're unavailable now. I've also called along with several other listers. They told me they won't be carrying them again. Bill Swindle. 98' KLR650A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Rottenberg Subject: Re: (klr650) Isreali needs NY or LA dealer info Date: 10 Nov 1998 23:20:06 -0500 r u sure the email address does not end in .il ? SHARONV@Amdocs.com.il ?? >>> NY or LA. His wife is visiting in a couple of >days and he hopes she can pick up some parts. If any of you have >recommendations, please reply to him at SHARONV@Amdocs.com. <<< Steve in Tampa 98 B12 95 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR wiring Date: 11 Nov 1998 00:06:40 -0500 Many of my Land Rover publications re: Series I, II, III's have suggested using petroleum jelly (Vaseline) when waterproofing a Landy's electricals for submersion. Have never tried it myself but use flux paste in copious ammounts when reassembling electrical connections both on the bikes and the sailboat. No water-borne "illness" yet. Jake in Jacksonville Mark wrote: > For our lab's deep-sea electrical and pressure applications, we use "AquaLube". It's a blue greasy goo that looks like melted chewed gum. It comes in a tube and it's TOTALLY waterproof. You can probably get it at any marine dealer. > Mark, B2 > > > There are several multi pin connectors on the KLR wiring harness. These are not water tight. Now once a year I pull each connector apart, spray in some WD-40 and then reassemble. I have had no further electrical problems with the KLR(sold last year) or the Tengai. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Damage caused by SplitFires and the use of glue Date: 11 Nov 1998 16:49:11 +1000 Tom Simpson wrote: [Splitfire bad reputation] I've seen these sorts of stories way back when I trawled car groups on the Fidonet, rather like Slick 50 arguments. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use Bosch Platinum +4's? Date: 11 Nov 1998 16:55:55 +1000 Josh Sammons wrote: > Has anyone heard of our used the new Bosch Platinum +4 sparkplugs? Just saw > and ad in Car & Driver mag. Like a regular plug but has 4 arms coming out > above the electrode vs. the usual 1. I've used Bosch plugs on all my cars > and have been impressed with their performance and durability. Most of the plug makers have a multi-electrode plug where the motor maker specifies it, such as Mazda rotaries using a twin electrode. Some years ago I did try out some Golden Lodge 4-electrode plugs in Minis, which worked good but didn't take too well to oil burning, or maybe they were just too cold for my motors. If Bosch have them to suit the KLR I'll try them out. I guess the main benefit of the 4-electrode is extended service life. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "SAM DILLINGHAM" Subject: (klr650) SplitFire Date: 10 Nov 1998 23:28:40 -0700 Check out: http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9702/splitfir.htm Text Follows: FOR RELEASE: FEBRUARY 11, 1997 --- ---- SPLITFIRE SETTLES FTC CHARGES: ECONOMY, EFFICIENCY CLAIMS ARE DECEPTIVE In the latest in a series of FTC cases targeting deceptive ads for produc= ts that promise to improve automobile performance and economy, SplitFire, In= c., has agreed to settle Federal Trade Commission charges that economy, efficiency and improved performance claims for its spark plugs were false= or unsubstantiated. The agreement to settle the FTC charges will bar SplitFi= re from making deceptive claims about fuel economy, emissions, horsepower or cost savings. The company also will be barred from misrepresenting the results of tests, studies or research and from misrepresenting testimonia= ls. SplitFire, Inc., is a Northbrook, Illinois-based marketer of nationally advertised, premium priced spark plugs that feature a v shape it terms, "split electrode." SplitFire advertises that use of its patented spark plugs results in significantly better fuel economy, greater horsepower, lower emissions an= d cost savings than use of either conventional spark plugs or platinum-tipp= ed spark plugs. According to the complaint detailing the FTC charges, SplitF= ire ads stated: "Equipped with conventional spark plugs, up to 15% of the combustion cycl= es in a modern engine end up in 'partial misfires.=92 SplitFire=92s larger f= lame kernel helps reduce partial misfires, and experts say it helps improve: Performance, Economy, Emissions." and "It only costs more 'til you use It," and; "SplitFire conducts continuous consumer surveys to constantly monitor 're= al life=92 performance in all vehicle types. . . 70% reported a gas mileage increase of from 1 to 6 more miles per gallon." The SplitFire ads also featured consumer endorsements making claims such = as, "They=92ll pay for themselves, basically, in the first 6 months you own '= em," according to the FTC complaint. The FTC alleged that SplitFire did not possess and rely upon a reasonable basis to support the claims, that SplitFire=92s claims that surveys confi= rm gas mileage increases were false, and that Splitfire did not have a reasonable basis to claim that the testimonials used in its ads reflect t= he typical or ordinary experience of consumers who use SplitFire spark plugs. The consent order to settle the charges would prohibit SplitFire from mak= ing fuel economy, emissions, horsepower or cost savings claims without compet= ent and reliable scientific evidence to support them. It would also prohibit misrepresentations about the existence, contents, validity, results, conclusions or interpretations of any test or study. Finally, in connecti= on with testimonials, the settlement would require that SplitFire have scientific evidence to substantiate claims in endorsements or testimonial= s; that Splitfire disclose what the typical or ordinary consumer experience would be; or that the company disclose the limited applicability of the endorser=92s experience -- that is, that consumers should not expect to experience similar results. The Commission vote to accept the consent agreement for public comment wa= s 5-0. The proposed agreement will be placed on the public record for a 60-= day public comment period. Comments should be addressed to the FTC, Office of the Secretary, 6th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20580. NOTE: A consent agreement is for settlement purposes only and does not constitute an admission of a law violation. When the Commission issues a consent order on a final basis, it carries the force of law with respect = to future actions. Each violation of such an order may result in a civil penalty of $11,000. --- ---- Copies of the complaint, consent agreement and a consumer alert, "Penny w= ise and Pump Fuelish," are available on the Internet at http://www.ftc.gov an= d from the FTC=92s Public Reference Branch, Room 130, 6th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue, N.W., Washington, D.C. 20580; 202-326-2222; TTY for = the hearing impaired 202-326-2502. Consent agreements subject to public comme= nts also are available by calling 202-326-3627. To find out the latest news a= s it is announced, call the FTC NewsPhone recording at 202- 326-2710. FTC n= ews releases and other materials also are available on the Internet at the FT= C=92s World Wide Web site at: http://www.ftc.gov (no period). MEDIA CONTACT: Claudia Bourne Farrell Office of Public Affairs 202-326-2181 STAFF CONTACT: Laura Fremont San Francisco Regional Office 901 Market Street, Suite 570 San Francisco, California 94103 415-356-5270 (FTC File No. 952 3029) (SplitFire) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Subject: [Fwd: (klr650) Storage procedures...] Date: 10 Nov 1998 23:58:04 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------A27E0B625AAD2CEABC2ECC3C Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------A27E0B625AAD2CEABC2ECC3C Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Return-path: Envelope-to: brbo@uniserve.com Received: from lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7] by pop.uniserve.com with esmtp (Exim 1.82 #4) id 0zci5N-0006OY-00; Sun, 8 Nov 1998 19:33:49 -0800 Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zci4p-0004pC-00 for klr650-goout@lists.xmission.com; Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:33:15 -0700 Received: from [204.244.156.3] (helo=pop.uniserve.com) by lists.xmission.com with smtp (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zci4n-0004ox-00 for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:33:13 -0700 Received: from chk1d26.dial.uniserve.ca (uniserve.com) [204.244.143.153] by pop.uniserve.com with esmtp (Exim 1.82 #4) id 0zci4j-0006Jq-00; Sun, 8 Nov 1998 19:33:10 -0800 Message-ID: <364661E6.B74FA653@uniserve.com> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: Brian X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Kurt S. mentioned previously to drain the fuel bowl during burial, waiting for my manual....... Is it as simple as the small key way at the bottom of the carb. pointing toward you, on the right side of the bike, 'turn drain tighten'? If not, how?? Draining of the carb. must be done after putting oil into plug hole and cranking?? If this is done doesn't an empty fuel bowl have more of an opportunity to collect humidity/rust, than a full bowl of clean fuel & stabil. Also in regards to the wiring to the tail lamp/LP/Signals, I would recommend replacing all wires to 16 gauge, re-routing and heat shrinking it all up to the 'new' breaker. Also running a bead of caulking along the inner edge of the fender and the under side of the seat/rack, to keep the wheel area sealed from the newly routed wiring. For it's simplicity, definitely worth the advantages, why didn't Kawa think so?? Thanks Brian A12 CE 7k zzzz,zzz (any recommendations for improving frt. harness..) --------------A27E0B625AAD2CEABC2ECC3C-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry" Subject: (klr650) Engine Problem Date: 11 Nov 1998 01:01:10 -0800 This list is great! I have an 89 KLR that I bought in April. I believe that I have a problem. My engine has been kinda noisy, so I decided to check my valves. When I was checking the clearance I came up with the following: Intake Exhaust R: <.07mm (smallest my feeler gauge had) >.60mm L: <.07mm >.60mm OK, so the bike was not running at peak efficiency! I new I needed to get some shims. I took both cams out and low and behold, my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is what was causing the noise. Is there a way to repair this damage, inexpensively as possible? At the least I know that I need a new exhaust cam, and a head gasket. Larry (??Close to Death?? 89 KLR) Sunny So. Cal Soon to have 97 KLR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: RE: (klr650) Engine Problem Date: 11 Nov 1998 07:13:36 -0500 The cam journals and cam caps are machined as a set unfortunately.. you cant replace just the caps. Inspect the journals for wear with some plastigauge. Maybe its right at spec. If you really want to be cheap, you could put some oiled emery paper or an oil stone on a flat surface and take a -tiny- bit of material off the bottom of the caps, lowering them. since most of the force is up and down on the cam this shouldnt be too bad. Note that SOME space between the cap and cam surface is required for oil film. Check the spec! As for cam wear you can have companies like megacycle grind and resurface the cam for cheap. This list is great! I have an 89 KLR that I bought in April. I believe that I have a problem. My engine has been kinda noisy, so I decided to check my valves. When I was checking the clearance I came up with the following: Intake Exhaust R: <.07mm (smallest my feeler gauge had) >.60mm L: <.07mm >.60mm OK, so the bike was not running at peak efficiency! I new I needed to get some shims. I took both cams out and low and behold, my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is what was causing the noise. Is there a way to repair this damage, inexpensively as possible? At the least I know that I need a new exhaust cam, and a head gasket. Larry (??Close to Death?? 89 KLR) Sunny So. Cal Soon to have 97 KLR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Engine Problem Date: 11 Nov 1998 05:09:22 -0700 -----Original Message----- >This list is great! > >I have an 89 KLR that I bought in April. I believe that I have a problem. >My engine has been kinda noisy, so I decided to check my valves. When I was >checking the clearance I came up with the following: > > Intake >Exhaust > R: <.07mm (smallest my feeler gauge had) >.60mm > L: <.07mm >>.60mm > >OK, so the bike was not running at peak efficiency! > >I new I needed to get some shims. I took both cams out and low and behold, >my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off >the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap >bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). >The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is >what was causing the noise. > >Is there a way to repair this damage, inexpensively as possible? > >At the least I know that I need a new exhaust cam, and a head gasket. > >Larry (??Close to Death?? 89 KLR) >Sunny So. Cal >Soon to have 97 KLR > > > Sounds like someone ran your engine with no or low oil for a while. More than likely the head is toast. The cam journals should measure 22.949mm to 22.970mm and the cam bearing inside diameter should measure 23.000mm to 23.021mm. If any of these are out of specs then the only good remedy is replacement. I doubt that you will find a machinist to make some bearings for your head that would be cost effective. You might check out a salvage yard first. http://www.moto-directory.com/salvage.htm Inexpensive...I don't think so! Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rob Gendreau Subject: Re: (klr650) GPS Mounts Date: 11 Nov 1998 10:45:20 -0700 Paul Christenson asked: >I want to mount my Garmin GPS 12XL onto my KLR. >My concern is with engine vibration. Do I need to do any kind of shock >protection for this unit? I know about the CycoActive mount, but I dont >want to pay $86 for it. While I agree it's expensive, I've used the CycoActive (actually Touratech) mount and it works great. It's incredibly bombproof, but it's awful hard to justify the expense; it is an industrial piece of art, but perhaps overkill. If I was going to do it over again, I'm not sure I'd even use a handlebar mount. I've found that off-road I usually stop to use the GPS anyway, so maybe hanging it around my neck on a lanyard or putting it below the clear plastic might be a better way to go. You might also try West Marine; they have a variety of GPS and small electronics mounts that might be modified for your KLR. Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE klr650@lists.xmission.com: Non-member submission from [MSchue5938@aol.com] Date: 11 Nov 1998 06:51:46 -0700 -----Original Message----- [MSchue5938@aol.com] >>From MSchue5938@aol.com Tue Nov 10 18:13:24 1998 >Received: from [198.81.17.8] (helo=imo18.mx.aol.com) > by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) > id 0zdOqZ-0006Dn-00 > for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 18:13:23 -0700 >Received: from MSchue5938@aol.com > by imo18.mx.aol.com (IMOv16.10) id OSMFa29185 > for ; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 20:11:41 +1900 (EST) >From: MSchue5938@aol.com >Message-ID: <5ebe3922.3648e44d@aol.com> >Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 20:11:41 EST >To: klr650@lists.xmission.com >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Subject: bicycle carriers for klr's >Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit >X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 16-bit for Windows sub 38 > >Dear Motorcycle/Bicycle Rider, > >I make a Two Bicycle Carrier Systems for Motorcycles. The attatched photo >file shows >both systems on my KLR 650- all I need is a cute passenger and we're set for a >day of >real fun! Of course I mostly use one system at a time- the side mount for >rough dirt roads >or the rear pull mount for street. The side mount is most appropriate for >dirt and dual >purpose m/c's, where as the rear pull system works great for any kind of m/c >with a rear >rack. Both systems are simple, lightweight (aluminum tubing), durable, quick >to mount the >bicycle and quick to attatch to the m/c. >I've got hundreds of miles on both systems and have a ball enjoying both >sports in the same >outing. The system gets lots of smiles and hoots from whomever sees it. >Each system sells for $245 plus shipping. >If you have a M/C I haven't done before we can develope a template over the >phone or >thru the mail. >Give me a call for more info. >Sincerely, > >Mark Schuette >Cycle By-Cycle Carriers >1440 1/2 NE 7th ST. >Bend, Oregon 97701 >541-383-3845 >go to web site http://members.aol.com/mschue5938/mschuette.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (Francis Smith) Subject: Fwd: Re: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use Bosch Platinum +4's? Date: 11 Nov 1998 10:44:30 -0800 (PST) --WebTV-Mail-1638682336-486 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit All this talk about spark plugs seems to be going nowhere. How about some souped up (i.e., higher voltage) components between the plug and the battery, or will the KLR system not handle them?. Jim (satisfied with the status quo, but always keen on proven performance enhancers) --WebTV-Mail-1638682336-486 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit Received: from mailsorter-102.bryant.webtv.net (mailsorter-102.iap.bryant.webtv.net [207.79.35.92]) by postoffice-142.iap.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/po.gso.24Feb98) with ESMTP id WAA10038; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 22:02:04 -0800 (PST) Received: from lists.xmission.com (lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7]) by mailsorter-102.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) with ESMTP id WAA08144; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 22:02:03 -0800 (PST) Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zdTLS-0002I4-00 for klr650-goout@lists.xmission.com; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 23:01:34 -0700 Received: from [203.12.238.34] (helo=zhora.replicant.apana.org.au) by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) id 0zdTLD-00025P-00 for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Tue, 10 Nov 1998 23:01:21 -0700 Received: (from smap@localhost) by zhora.replicant.apana.org.au (8.8.5/8.8.5) id RAA04521 for ; Wed, 11 Nov 1998 17:00:23 +1100 Received: from electra.replicant.apana.org.au(192.168.100.73) by zhora.replicant.apana.org.au via smap (V1.3) id xma004473; Wed, 11 Nov 98 17:00:01 +1100 Message-ID: <364934FB.34DF@replicant.apana.org.au> Organization: RC17 Proving Labs X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.03 (WinNT; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <000201be0cde$747bdc60$e8869bd0@default> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: Ted Palmer Josh Sammons wrote: > Has anyone heard of our used the new Bosch Platinum +4 sparkplugs? Just saw > and ad in Car & Driver mag. Like a regular plug but has 4 arms coming out > above the electrode vs. the usual 1. I've used Bosch plugs on all my cars > and have been impressed with their performance and durability. Most of the plug makers have a multi-electrode plug where the motor maker specifies it, such as Mazda rotaries using a twin electrode. Some years ago I did try out some Golden Lodge 4-electrode plugs in Minis, which worked good but didn't take too well to oil burning, or maybe they were just too cold for my motors. If Bosch have them to suit the KLR I'll try them out. I guess the main benefit of the 4-electrode is extended service life. Mister_T --WebTV-Mail-1638682336-486-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rob Gendreau Subject: (klr650) WTB: KLR in SF Bay Area Date: 11 Nov 1998 11:47:10 -0700 From ba.motorcycles (Don Lewis (dlewis@redshift.com)): >I am in the market for a used KLR650 in the S.F. Bay Area. I'm not as >interested in the year as the condition. It must be clean. > >-- >"You don't get too old to ride a motorcycle. >You get too old from not riding a motorcycle." >From: "Don Lewis" >Newsgroups: ba.motorcycles >Subject: WTB: KLR650 Kawasaki >Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 15:48:27 -0800 Don't hit reply to me. Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rcklr@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: Anyone use split-fires? Date: 11 Nov 1998 09:04:53 EST In a message dated 11/11/98 12:26:20 AM Central Standard Time, eroads@europa.com writes: << ->I have about 6k on my '93 KLR using SplitFires. No damage to report, but then >again I haven't torn 'er down either. Question I have is how can a better >spark destroy a piston? It's not like you're changing timing or anything. >Anyway, that's my $.02 worth. > >MN Ron > Ron.....I think they mean some kind of hardware failure and nothing about quality of spark. My understanding is that basically a spark is a spark. The spark just needs to occur at a given spot. A spark plug is just the hardware used to reliably make sure that happens. A bad plug simply degrades whatever the system is capable of. I'd guess the *only* thing a plug is capable of is degrading ignition. I don't have any idea why you'd chose a plug for other than reliability (reputation) and/or longevity. >> It's been a long time since I created so much traffic. I agree with what everyone has written in response to my reply to a question. I'm not running a SplitFire because I thought that I'd get better performance or economy. I'm running them to see if they work OK. I don't expect any damage, and I don't expect better performance. But, if I can do something else to get this much activity on the list, I'll do it. (IF I won't cause any damage.) Maybe we'll start a Slick 50 discussion.... (no no no, I did NOT do that to my bike...) At least I can say that I ran them, and not spread stories about someone that I have never talked to directly...... NOW, we have to move on..... We could talk about the weather, but then you'd all make me feel worse than I already do. MN Ron (dashing through the snow..........) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) KLR650 Oil Filter Comparisons Date: 11 Nov 1998 09:05:28 -0500 To the LIST: Bob Kaub has taken a great deal of time and effort to put together a very comprehensive comparison of many popular oil filters for the KLR650. You might find some surprises here as well as an opportunity to save a little money! Check out the article at: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page49.html Your comments are welcome - maybe there are others that were missed. Bill WebMaster - KLRDSN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dreas Nielsen Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR650 Oil Filter Comparison Date: 11 Nov 1998 11:08:49 -0800 The Kawasaki filter costs me only $4.60 at my dealer, making it the cheapest of the lot, except for EMGO. Dreas Nielsen Issaquah, WA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 11 Nov 1998 11:22:21 -0800 Kurt- In response to your question, here are some things that come immediately to mind: What are good aftermarket replacement tires? What are the pros and cons of the aftermarket seats available (or what is monkey butt?) What are the effects of using the 14T and 16T countershaft sprockets? Wobble or Wiggle? Who is Fred Hink? :p Is Moab really dual sport mecca? :p What is the best oil to use (this one should have a short response)? :p Who is Hiro Wantanabee? What is a good chain lube? Is there an aftermarket service manual available? What is the difference between pre-'95 and post '95 KLR650s? Why does the KLR not come with SS spokes? :p How can I improve the front brake? Can the KLR charging system handle electric vest/gloves? What makes the KLR650 the best dual sport motorcycle in the world? How can I improve on the restrictive EPA features of my KLR? Are there any taller than stock windscreens available? Where can I find a Kawasaki dealer who believes in customer service? :p Does the KLR *really* need to have the valves checked at 500 miles? Are highway pegs available? How about racks to protect soft luggage from hot pipe? How can I improve the squishy front suspension? What's the difference between the KLR650 and the Tengai? Ride Safe, Darrel Oxnard, CA *************************************** So, what should be included in the FAQ? I have my ideas what are yours? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) weather Date: 11 Nov 1998 13:55:28 -0600 >We could talk about the weather, but then you'd all make me feel worse than I >already do. > >MN Ron (dashing through the snow..........) > Yesterday we had temps about 30 degrees F, rain, snow and 50+ mile per hour winds. Needless to say I wasn't out on my bike yesterday. Today is nice but I'm cleaning house and getting called out on trouble calls.(I work for the electric co.) Maybe tommorrow! Alan Henderson Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: (klr650) KLX parts? Date: 11 Nov 1998 15:10:40 -0500 Anyone have any KLX parts they want to sell? Would be nice to find someone with a dead KLX650A model.. I want to use the monoshock and swingarm on my KLX650C. TIA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) FYI, electrical capacity of KLR as described by Saeng Date: 11 Nov 1998 17:23:56 -0000 Paul at Saeng was kind enough to answer a question regarding capacity of the KLR charging system, recommendation for using their Night Cutters. This was his response/recommendation: KLR output 180-190 watts I would suggest using 35 watt bulbs in night cutters or only one light with 55 watts ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) KLR electrical system capacity Date: 11 Nov 1998 17:25:23 -0000 I emailed Baja Designs a while back asking if they could re-do the stator, anything to increase alternator output. I no longer have the original response, but I do recall them saying they couldn't increase the alternator output without blowing the stock voltage regulator. Apparently, this is yet another difference between the KLR and the KLX (no comments James!). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) Splitfire plugs comment Date: 11 Nov 1998 17:26:10 -0000 1 - Don't waste your money, no one I know has ever noticed a performance increase due to plug change, except for replacing an old or fouled plug. Everyone I know uses NGK, probably because when one of us was a kid, their father bought NGK plugs, and set a trend the rest of us followed (you use NGK, I guess I should use them then). 2 - EXCEPT!!! Once, I noticed a performance DECREASE. I had a Ninja 900 with Keihin smooth bores, pop-ups, aftermarket cams of unknown origin. Figured I would give the split fires a shot, bike started idling roughly, not running smooth. Swapped back to NGK's, all was well with the world. I can't think of a reasonable explanation for this, but that was my experience using them. 3 - As mentioned elsewhere, the two-stroke guys I know swear at them, not by them. 4 - IMO, the two prong deal is snake oil. It merely offers more potential paths for the spark to travel the path of least resistance, but it also blocks the flame front. Somewhere I read (don't start up with me again guys!) that some racers will swap plugs in multi-cylinder engines so as to keep the bend in the electrode facing out from the center of the cylinder, to reduce interference with the flame front by the electrode. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: Re: (klr650) Splitfire plugs comment Date: 11 Nov 1998 18:16:26 -0500 Eric wrote: "I had a Ninja 900 with Keihin smooth bores, pop-ups, aftermarket cams of unknown origin. Figured I would give the split fires a shot, bike started idling roughly, not running smooth. Swapped back to NGK's, all was well with the world". Spark plugs are mysterious. I have had assorted Japanese and German dirt bikes that would not run with Champions, but ran great on NGK's. Absolutely no explanation. Use NGK, it's easier. Todd A11 Wilmington, Delaware ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Todd Emsley Subject: Re: (klr650) FAQ....request for submissions... Date: 11 Nov 1998 18:21:12 -0500 Great List! Todd A11 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Chicago area KLR riders Date: 11 Nov 1998 18:45:45 -0600 The weather forecast is looking good for Sat breakfast. Partly sunny high 52. Does anyone know of any trails in the area? Kenny South Elgin IL A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Daniel L. Hill" Subject: (klr650) Service manual Date: 11 Nov 1998 20:38:27 -0600 I am looking for the best KLR650 service manual. Thanks for any help dhill005@odu.edu ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Service manual Date: 11 Nov 1998 21:00:03 -0500 At 08:38 PM 11/11/98 -0600, Daniel L. Hill wrote: >I am looking for the best KLR650 service manual. Thanks for any help Kawasaki makes the best. Of course, its the only one in existance, too. :) -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 11 Nov 1998 23:50:47 -0600 (CST) Hey Guys, Just wanted to let everyone know that I got the KLR all put back together after I put new rings and valve oil seals in. Started right up (much to my amazement, as I thought I would screw something up) and I've put about 50 miles on it so far. I'll probably have to wait till next spring to put enough miles on it to be able to tell if it is still burning oil. Thanks to everyone for the help! Carlos Milwaukee P.S. I've been running the bike at less that 4,000 RPM for break in. Is this about right? How long should I take it easy with the bike? P.P.S Fred, you mentioned something about bearings somewhere in the head while commenting on another post. Did I miss something? I didn't notice any bearings around the cams or the caps on my 91. All I saw was groves on the left intake and exhaust caps to allow for oil flow, and holes in the cams themselves so oil can get under the right hand caps. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) Engine Problem Date: 12 Nov 1998 00:00:53 -0600 (CST) On Wed, 11 Nov 1998, Larry wrote: > my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off > the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap > bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). > The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is > what was causing the noise. > Hi Larry, Where are your cams worn, on the lobes or where the caps go? This is a stab in the dark, but the little studs that go in the cam cap holes have a top side and a bottom side. Take the little stud out and notice that one side has a taper and the other side is a flat cut. The taper should be on top, it should go in the cam caps. The flat side should go into the head itself. Maybe it it is backwards and it could be causing too much clearance between the cam journals and the cam. I dont know for sure if this would actually cause a larger clearance, but its worth checking. Good Luck, Carlos ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ian Ellison Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #354 Date: 12 Nov 1998 09:42:56 -0000 > Date: Wed, 11 Nov 1998 10:45:20 -0700 > From: Rob Gendreau > Subject: Re: (klr650) GPS Mounts > > Paul Christenson asked: > > >I want to mount my Garmin GPS 12XL onto my KLR. > > >My concern is with engine vibration. Do I need to do any kind of shock > >protection for this unit? I know about the CycoActive mount, but I dont > >want to pay $86 for it. > > While I agree it's expensive, I've used the CycoActive (actually > Touratech) mount and it works great. It's incredibly bombproof, but it's > awful hard to justify the expense; it is an industrial piece of art, but > perhaps overkill. > > If I was going to do it over again, I'm not sure I'd even use a handlebar > mount. I've found that off-road I usually stop to use the GPS anyway, so > maybe hanging it around my neck on a lanyard or putting it below the > clear plastic might be a better way to go. > > You might also try West Marine; they have a variety of GPS and small > electronics mounts that might be modified for your KLR. > > > Rob Gendreau > Oakland, California > gendreau@ccnet.com > > ------------------------------ > > > What about a tank bag with a clear map pocket on top? Ian Ellison Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info New email from 14/11/98: iane@beaver-valley.co.uk ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 12 Nov 1998 07:51:00 -0700 -----Original Message----- > >Hey Guys, > >Just wanted to let everyone know that I got the KLR all put back together >after I put new rings and valve oil seals in. Started right up (much to >my amazement, as I thought I would screw something up) and I've put about >50 miles on it so far. I'll probably have to wait till next spring to put >enough miles on it to be able to tell if it is still burning oil. Thanks >to everyone for the help! > >Carlos >Milwaukee > >P.S. I've been running the bike at less that 4,000 RPM for break in. Is >this about right? How long should I take it easy with the bike? Congratulations on getting your bike back together right! I would think that 500 easy miles would have the rings back in good shape. What did you use to break the glaze on your cylinder? Did you check the wear on the piston or cylinder? >P.P.S Fred, you mentioned something about bearings somewhere in the head >while commenting on another post. Did I miss something? I didn't notice >any bearings around the cams or the caps on my 91. All I saw was groves >on the left intake and exhaust caps to allow for oil flow, and holes in >the cams themselves so oil can get under the right hand caps. > > > I was just suggesting a cheaper alternative of having a machinist make some bearings for the cams rather than replacing the head. Of course the stock head uses no separate bearings but relies on the aluminum in the head for the bearing surfaces. I never liked this idea just for this reason. Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise Date: 12 Nov 1998 06:44:41 -0800 Sorry, I missed your first message. You may have heard this already. As you know, even brand new KLRs are noisy, mechanically, under accelleration in lower RPM ranges. The good news is that they don't get much worse over time. They may be noisier than some bikes because they have a more durable but noisier rod-crank (roller) bearing. Piston slap probably isn't the source, since KLRs would be set up tighter than air-cooled engines like the DR650's, which run at higher cylinder and piston temperatures and have to cope with more aluminum piston expansion than our liquid-cooled KLRs. I've considered a DR650 too, and it's a good bike. For me, it's not as fast or as durable as I like, so I bought a new KLR650 A12 (in August of '97). I'm betting the KLR650 is more durable and will run many more miles before overhaul than any air-cooled DP big thumper out there. I like the large 6.1 gallon fuel tank. Its main drawback for me is the awkward and difficult valve adjustment process. I'm checking my clearances each time I change oil, and I haven't had to mess with the clearances yet (I have my fingers crossed, and I miss the XL and NX rocker arm screw-and-nut-behind-a-cap arrangement). My KLR has minor mods (pipe, main jet, air filter), runs very strong and fast, and clatters and clanks like a diesel engine below 3500 revs. I love it. I hope you got useful feedback on this subject. I don't see it in the "posted" stuff. Rob C. A12 3.8k PS---If you get a DR650, let us know how it works out. I'd like to read your impressions, since I was interested in a DR too. -----Original Message----- >Hi All, >First, thanks for all the replies and info on my new KLR's engine noise. >It wasn't detonation or anything that easy. The dealer where I bought it >said it was piston slap, and normal for this bike. I took it to another >dealer and he said it was crankshaft or rod bearing noise which is normal >for this bike and he couldn't do anything unless a service rep said fix it. > I talked to a service rep in Santa Ana, California and he said the engine >is normally noisy and he couldn't do anything unless the dealer said it >needed fixing. Is that "Catch 22"? Anyhow I guess I'm stuck with a >clanker. Too bad, it's a nice bike otherwise, except for the brakes. It's >a good thing this bike has a lot of engine braking because that's half of >the braking system. I can't believe it passed any DOT braking tests. I >think I'm going to trade it in for a DR650SE. It's 20 pounds lighter, has >dual piston brakes and you can't hear it coming a block away. >Jim in Dallas > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise Date: 12 Nov 1998 06:58:50 -0800 PPS (I forgot to comment on KLR650 brakes.): The front brake is a problem for me, because it's spongy and gives little feedback. Front and rear brakes will lock the wheels, so braking "power" isn't the issue, for me. They do stop the bike pretty quickly, and the tire traction is the limiting factor. I just don't like the feel of the front brake. Some guys install a braided line, which they say helps. I haven't done that, and I'm getting used to my stock, spongy, front brake. What's the issue for you with your brakes? Does the front brake run out of lever travel on hard stops? Mine feels like it might, but it never has. Rob C. -----Original Message----- >Sorry, I missed your first message. You may have heard this already. As >you know, even brand new KLRs are noisy, mechanically, under accelleration >in lower RPM ranges. > >The good news is that they don't get much worse over time. They may be >noisier than some bikes because they have a more durable but noisier >rod-crank (roller) bearing. Piston slap probably isn't the source, since >KLRs would be set up tighter than air-cooled engines like the DR650's, which >run at higher cylinder and piston temperatures and have to cope with more >aluminum piston expansion than our liquid-cooled KLRs. > >I've considered a DR650 too, and it's a good bike. For me, it's not as fast >or as durable as I like, so I bought a new KLR650 A12 (in August of '97). >I'm betting the KLR650 is more durable and will run many more miles before >overhaul than any air-cooled DP big thumper out there. I like the large 6.1 >gallon fuel tank. Its main drawback for me is the awkward and difficult >valve adjustment process. I'm checking my clearances each time I change >oil, and I haven't had to mess with the clearances yet (I have my fingers >crossed, and I miss the XL and NX rocker arm screw-and-nut-behind-a-cap >arrangement). > >My KLR has minor mods (pipe, main jet, air filter), runs very strong and >fast, and clatters and clanks like a diesel engine below 3500 revs. I love >it. I hope you got useful feedback on this subject. I don't see it in the >"posted" stuff. Rob C. A12 3.8k > >PS---If you get a DR650, let us know how it works out. I'd like to read >your impressions, since I was interested in a DR too. >-----Original Message----- >From: James F McFaden >To: klr650@lists.xmission.com >Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 7:57 PM >Subject: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise > > >>Hi All, >>First, thanks for all the replies and info on my new KLR's engine noise. >>It wasn't detonation or anything that easy. The dealer where I bought it >>said it was piston slap, and normal for this bike. I took it to another >>dealer and he said it was crankshaft or rod bearing noise which is normal >>for this bike and he couldn't do anything unless a service rep said fix it. >> I talked to a service rep in Santa Ana, California and he said the engine >>is normally noisy and he couldn't do anything unless the dealer said it >>needed fixing. Is that "Catch 22"? Anyhow I guess I'm stuck with a >>clanker. Too bad, it's a nice bike otherwise, except for the brakes. It's >>a good thing this bike has a lot of engine braking because that's half of >>the braking system. I can't believe it passed any DOT braking tests. I >>think I'm going to trade it in for a DR650SE. It's 20 pounds lighter, has >>dual piston brakes and you can't hear it coming a block away. >>Jim in Dallas >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Date: 12 Nov 1998 09:53:58 -0600 (CST) On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Fred Hink wrote: > Congratulations on getting your bike back together right! I would think > that 500 easy miles would have the rings back in good shape. What did you > use to break the glaze on your cylinder? Did you check the wear on the > piston or cylinder? > Fred Thanks Fred. As far as honing the cylinder and relpacing the oil seals, I broke down and had my local dealer do it for about 50 bucks (they lapped the valves too). It's a shame considering that this was the work I was looking forward to do, but all of my leads for tools fell through, and I was on a schedule (I was in my dad's garage). I made sure to tell the shop to hone the cylinder with a bead type honer. A mechanic friend that I trust told me that to check the cylinder all that was really necessary was to run your fingernail up until the point where the piston stops and returns on top and on the bottom. If you feel a lip there, then you should measure it. I felt nothing, and I also saw the old honing marks pretty clearly. Actually I think the culprit with the oil burning was the oil seals, as the cylinder surface and the old rings looked pretty clean. On a promising note, I just changed the oil and let the bike idle for about 10 minutes, and when I checked the oil it was the still the same honey color. Previously running the bike any amount of time with new oil would turn it black as night. I think this means that the oil isn't being contaminated by the combustion (if I'm way off, somebody tell me). In any case I won't know for sure until I put some serious miles on it. Take care, Carlos (Milwaukee) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jean Philippe Bagel Subject: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... Date: 12 Nov 1998 09:25:04 -0800 Hi everyone, Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the indicated level, and screw back? On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. Anyone needs anything special? Thx in advance. -JP ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... Date: 12 Nov 1998 12:35:43 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Hi everyone, > >Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really >brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. >Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? >>From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I >wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the >indicated level, and screw back? Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake pad that you have worn off. It is normal. When you replace your worn out brake pads with new ones expect just the reverse, the excess brake fluid will go back into the master cylinder. If you want to change the fluid you will have to bleed out any air that will get into the system. Just adding brake fluid is an easy job unless you already have air in your system. >On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make >sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. >Anyone needs anything special? I'll take a Swedish Masseuse... ;<) >Thx in advance. > >-JP > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise Date: 12 Nov 1998 15:21:18 EST In a message dated 11/12/98 6:47:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, James F McFaden writes: << I think I'm going to trade it in for a DR650SE. It's 20 pounds lighter, has >dual piston brakes and you can't hear it coming a block away. >Jim in Dallas >> The DR650SE feels so small when I sit on it after sitting on the KLR. There are 3 dealers around here that have used ones for sale right now. They always do; it seems to be a bike a lot of people trade in for some reason??? Feels like a 350 to me compared to the KLR. No tach, itty bitty tank, yellow & purple, Skinny seat Just seems like more of a dirt bike. But......I guess if more of dirt bike is what your looking for, then it's great. Sure gets good reviews, except in the touring department of course, which the KLR rules in for true affordable Dual Sports. I guess I just like more of a bigger feeling bike for long trips. As for the clanky engine. The nature of the beast. We gotta live with it, or put a louder pipe on it (save weight too) so we don't notice it as much! Mine only makes that noise under 2 grand when I take off. Certainly is annoying, but as long as it's nothing wrong, why worry or trade bikes because of it? I can definitely understand how you feel though, as I got rid of my Concours much in the same way. The bike just annoyed me to no end, and I either had to get something else, or just not ride. Most Concours owners love em' because of the value for price.. After owning one, I just couldn't see the attraction. So.......in other words...I can relate. Bill S. A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... Date: 12 Nov 1998 12:35:43 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Hi everyone, > >Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really >brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. >Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? >>From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I >wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the >indicated level, and screw back? Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake pad that you have worn off. It is normal. When you replace your worn out brake pads with new ones expect just the reverse, the excess brake fluid will go back into the master cylinder. If you want to change the fluid you will have to bleed out any air that will get into the system. Just adding brake fluid is an easy job unless you already have air in your system. >On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make >sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. >Anyone needs anything special? I'll take a Swedish Masseuse... ;<) >Thx in advance. > >-JP > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Chicago area KLR riders Date: 12 Nov 1998 16:05:24 EST Confirming my intent to be at the Wauconda Main St. Cafe at 9am this Sat. -- hope to meet others. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Re: Front brake is almost gone... Date: 12 Nov 1998 13:41:16 PST >>I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >>gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for >>commuting. Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid >>to just "vanish"? >Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake >pad that you have worn off. It is normal. A month or so ago, I noticed that the fluid levels (front and rear) were both at the bottom line. Since I was planning on doing the brakes that weekend, I let it go until then. I did the brakes (simple job, really), and found the fluid in both was right at the top line. On my bike, anyway, the fluid level is a pretty accurate brake wear indicator. So, unless you have a leak, you probably need new brake pads. If you're a year-round commuter like me, a year is about right. It's a half hour job, and I recall spending about $25 for the pads. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - fairing wanted Date: 12 Nov 1998 17:22:52 -0700 Some folks have in the past mentioned parting out and having stuff left over: -- Does anyone in the US have a spare fairing, of any color, which would fit a 98 KLR650, for sale cheap? tanks rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - fairing wanted Date: 12 Nov 1998 17:05:54 PST >-- Does anyone in the US have a spare fairing, of any color, which >would fit a 98 KLR650, for sale cheap? Speaking of fairings, does anyone make a "real" full fairing for the KLR650? Something that is suitable for touring. Given that the stock minifairing is held on with two bolts, it shouldn't be all that difficult to swap. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 12 Nov 1998 17:10:07 PST Has anyone replaced the stock headlight bulb with something more powerful? I'd like to keep low beam to 55W, and crank high beam up to around 100W. Has anyone had charging problems with extended running with the higher current drain of extra lighting? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bev Blair Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #353 Date: 12 Nov 1998 12:05:15 -0800 Please take my e-mail address off your list. Thank you very much. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) All this brake talk Date: 12 Nov 1998 23:43:31 -0500 I see several listers contemplating brakes in the upcoming days, weeks, months... Handy your trusty 6mm allen wrench (or splurge for a socket mounted allen wrench-helpful in busting the tenacious bolt lock) for caliper removal. Additionally, Bill Wright (of Hotlanta fame) posted an interesting *trick* back in June-HERE IT IS!!! I am writing to let everyone know about a 'trick' a friend of mine told me about that I tried. I was commenting to him about the problem with bleeding brakes when installing a new line. The procedure I followed was, before removing brake line loosen the bleeder valve and pump the handle a couple of times. This is to get any dirt out of the valve. Even with the rubber cap you may still have some dirt here. After removing and replacing the brake line I attached a 18 inch length of aquarium air line to the valve and to a 100cc syringe. After filling the syringe, I inserted the plunger and slooowly filled the brake line, and resevoir. This bottom up method seems to work better. I guess air wants to go up anyway. When I did the bleed only 2 small bubbles appeared and the system was rock hard. Just though I would pass it along. The fill and bleed took less than 2 minutes. HTH Jake (who, sadly enough, indexes ALL pertinent posts for just this reason) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 12 Nov 1998 23:22:56 -0600 Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 13 Nov 1998 00:30:32 -0500 I believe IMS one of only a few (possibly two) who fit KLR shifters. Mine did the same spineless act and I had a welder run a bead down the backside of the lever and strengthen the union between the spline block and lever arm. Ugly as sin but nearly bomb-proof- I Carry it now as a spare & run the IMS full time. I think I got my IMS thru Chaparral for approx. $20. Jake Alan Henderson wrote: > > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 13 Nov 1998 00:32:49 -0500 Almost forgot: http://www.imsproducts.com Jake Alan Henderson wrote: > > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 12 Nov 1998 23:11:33 -0700 >Has anyone replaced the stock headlight bulb with something more >powerful? > >I'd like to keep low beam to 55W, and crank high beam up to around 100W. > >Has anyone had charging problems with extended running with the higher >current drain of extra lighting? > Paul, I`ve was running a Philips 55W/100W for over 5000 miles before I switched to a Piaa 80/80 which has a lumen and candlepower output equal to 100/135. I haven`t had any problems and there are many other Listers that have done the same, but it does limit your ability for much else in the way of other accessories. When I had a couple of my fuse blowing episodes, it was with the stock light, none with the 100W or the current 80W/80W,funny huh? Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR - fairing wanted Date: 12 Nov 1998 22:16:48 PST >Are you refering to the Tengai fairings? No; I mean something with a real windshield. Something that'll keep the wind, rain, and bugs out of my teeth... ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Larry" Subject: Re: (klr650) Engine Problem Date: 12 Nov 1998 23:23:55 -0800 The cam is worn in the cap areas. The caps are facing the correct way (arrows towards the front of the bike) and the exhaust cam, cam caps, and head all have extensive signs of wear. In short the head is toast. I am looking into ordering a used head but it still looks like around 375 +tax. I have the ability to purchase a new head for 390 + tax so I will buy new before getting a used head. Larry A3 (nursing back to health) A11 (!WOW!) -----Original Message----- Cc: KLR650 List >On Wed, 11 Nov 1998, Larry wrote: >> my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off >> the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap >> bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). >> The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is >> what was causing the noise. >> > >Hi Larry, >Where are your cams worn, on the lobes or where the caps go? This is a >stab in the dark, but the little studs that go in the cam cap holes have a >top side and a bottom side. Take the little stud out and notice that one >side has a taper and the other side is a flat cut. The taper should be on >top, it should go in the cam caps. The flat side should go into the head >itself. Maybe it it is backwards and it could be causing too much >clearance between the cam journals and the cam. I dont know for sure if >this would actually cause a larger clearance, but its worth checking. > >Good Luck, >Carlos > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) All this brake talk Date: 13 Nov 1998 22:24:36 +1000 J.Taylor wrote: [Brake bleed technique] I do something similar, but a little less involved. Before removing the line, I pump the piston(s) out about as far as they should be allowed to go (keeping some worn out pads around takes the guesswork out of it). Once the line or master kit replacement is done, I push the piston(s) back in as far as they will go, having a similar "back bleed" effect. Once some useful bleeding has been done, I pump the piston(s) back out, bleed, and push back in to help the new fluid get into the piston bores, else the caliper doesn't see much new fluid down where the heat is greatest. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 13 Nov 1998 22:33:50 +1000 Alan Henderson wrote: [busted shifter] I've managed to break two factory levers on my 600-B1. I had both repaired and keep one in the pouch as a spare. You don't want a super strong shift lever, as a "weak" lever will hopefully bend before the shift shaft does in event of an unfortunate fall. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Replacement shift levers Date: 13 Nov 1998 04:50:32 PST Alan Henderson wrote: "...my shift lever broke at the weld... I am getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality after market lever also." Alan, I'm currently using an IMS shift lever, purchased through Chaparral. It's a lot more stout than the stock lever but it still provides enough flex to be bent back after a hard fall. Just to be on the safe side though, I also went ahead and bought a Moose lever as a backup (I found that one at the local dealer). It seems to be even a little more stout than the IMS; I don't know about it's "flex factor." You can't go wrong with either one. They'll both stop a bullet. Hope this helps. Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Roy Cope Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - fairing wanted Date: 13 Nov 1998 07:54:51 -0700 >Speaking of fairings, does anyone make a "real" full fairing for the >KLR650? Something that is suitable for touring. > >Given that the stock minifairing is held on with two bolts, it shouldn't >be all that difficult to swap. KLR650 riders have two choices in bolt-on custom shields, Clearview and Rifle. Checkout http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page32.html Roy Cope ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Kurt Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 13 Nov 1998 07:54:50 -0700 Alan Henderson wrote: > > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 Tim Bernard at Driveline stocks a nice shifter (I think it is a PRO) and I'm sure Fred has something... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James F McFaden Subject: Re: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise Date: 13 Nov 1998 10:10:21 -0600 At 06:44 AM 11/12/98 -0800, Rob Clement wrote: >Sorry, I missed your first message. You may have heard this already. As >you know, even brand new KLRs are noisy, mechanically, under accelleration >in lower RPM ranges. > >The good news is that they don't get much worse over time. They may be >noisier than some bikes because they have a more durable but noisier >rod-crank (roller) bearing. Thanks Rob, and Bill S. for the input. After much thought, I've decided to keep the bike and just get used to the noise because there are so many things I like about the bike: Great seat, great rack, carburets perfectly at all temps, nice wind deflector, smooth transmission, nice easy clutch, liquid cooling, brakes OK after EBS pads, lots of fuel, and many others. I'll stick with 20w50 which helps a little. BTW, I found that removing the rear brake lever return spring makes the brakes feel much healthier. Thanks again. This is a great, informative list. Jim (tapping down the road) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Date: 13 Nov 1998 11:22:01 -0700 (MST) On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Alan Henderson wrote: > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 > I bought a replacement from a dealer from Moose Racing Products. I don't have the part number anymore, but he simply looked it up in his Tucker Rocky catalog. Good product, all black with the folding tip and much heavier duty than the stock. Jeff '89 KLR Tucson, Az ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave Cook Date: 12 Nov 1998 14:11:36 +0000 Has anyone tried the new Supertrapp IDS/quietcore muffler with the = internal disks? It looks good on their site.. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650)KLR chains Date: 13 Nov 1998 14:18:28 -0700 Before the days of o-ring chains, we all had to make do with the antediluvian alternative, and most of us did just fine, thank you. Since I can get 106L industrial 520HD chains almost free, what has been the experience with listers in using the HD variant? The HD outside width seems to be the same as the o-ring stock chain. I realize that the HD chain is heavier and adds unsprung weight and yada yada yada. And has anyone using a master linked chain on a KLR ever had a properly assembled one come off? tanks --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R.F. Stearns" Subject: (klr650) comfortable speed Date: 13 Nov 1998 13:26:11 -0800 Anybody got any advice on putting a larger sprocket (i.e. more teeth) on = the rear of a KLR650? I am looking for more speed on the highway = without all the vibration and buzz. I have always felt the bike wants a = taller final gear. If ever successfully done, what can I expect for off-roadability and = millage? Thanks Rich McMahan '96 KLR650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) comfortable speed Date: 13 Nov 1998 14:38:43 -0700 Anybody got any advice on putting a larger sprocket (i.e. more teeth) on the rear of a KLR650? I am looking for more speed on the highway without all the vibration and buzz. I have always felt the bike wants a taller final gear. If ever successfully done, what can I expect for off-roadability and millage? Thanks Rich McMahan '96 KLR650 Jake Jakeman runs a 39 T aluminum on the rear with a 15T on the front and a 13T in his pocket for radical off-road. He likes the combo and with a jet kit and no exhaust mods he gets in the 60 mpg range. Many of us are now running 16T on the front with the standard 43T and like the results. It is just slightly lower than the 15X39... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) WINDY CITY KLRists BREAKFAST Date: 13 Nov 1998 16:46:21 +0000 GOOD NEWS!!!!!! The forecast is for mid 50s!!!!!!!! Carlos bundle up and head down!!!! Looks like 4-6 listers and couple of KLR/Tengai wannabes on BMW K1100LTs!!! Here's the info again, and I hope to see you there for the first No. IL KLR Owners meeting! ;-) Alex who was BARELY able to start the KLR last night! When: Saturday, November 14th @ 9 am. Where: Main Street Cafe in Wauconda, IL How: The Main Street Cafe is located on Main Street in Wauconda. It is near the intersection of routes 12 & 176. The easiest way to get there is get to Route 53. Then take Route 53 north to the end. Take Lake-Cook west over to Route 12. Take Route12 north (right) to Route 176. Exit east bound. Main Street is about two miles east of the intersection of 12/176. Turn left at the stop light (there is a fire station on the corner). After turning left, the Cafe is one block down on the right side corner. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: Re: (klr650)KLR chains NKLR Date: 13 Nov 1998 14:54:03 -0800 -----Original Message----- >Before the days of o-ring chains, we all had to make do with the >antediluvian alternative, and most of us did just fine, thank you. >>>>>> er uhh...I don't exactly recall what we used before the flood....been a while....however, what you say was certainly the case in antebellum times....and, indeed, I did just fine. (quite welcome) >Since I can get 106L industrial 520HD chains almost free, what has been >the experience with listers in using the HD variant? The HD outside >width seems to be the same as the o-ring stock chain. I realize that >the HD chain is heavier and adds unsprung weight and yada yada yada. >>>>>>>>>>>>You can get these for nearly free? Buddeeee ...have I got a deal for you.... :) >And has anyone using a master linked chain on a KLR ever had a properly >assembled one come off? >>>>>>>>>>>> ...yeah? and how many of those who have are alive to talk about it? Criminy (thanks Ves), you're asking for a skewed sample here! >tanks >-rr jets eric .... technologically advanced! ...but crazy enough to put this nonsense on the list ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) shift lever shot Thanks! Date: 13 Nov 1998 16:58:06 -0600 Thanks for the quick replies everybody! By the way the only thing that has ever touched my shift lever are my 12.5F boots. No trees, tipovers or rocks. Just simply cracked outside the weld in the stamped metal. Thanks again! Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: West Hovland Subject: Re: (klr650) comfortable speed Date: 13 Nov 1998 15:45:19 -0800 R.F. Stearns wrote: > Anybody got any advice on putting a larger sprocket (i.e. more teeth) on the rear of a KLR650? I am looking for more speed on the highway without all the vibration and buzz. I have always felt the bike wants a taller final gear. > R.F. You're going the wrong way if you want taller gearing (ie. lower rev's for same speed). Taller = smaller rear or larger front. Shorter= larger rear or smaller front One tooth larger on front or 3 teeth smaller on the rear will equal about 500 rpm lower at around 60 mph. good luck, West ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Allan Parker Subject: (klr650) Misc stuff Date: 13 Nov 1998 17:02:54 -0500 For the last month or so you guys have been filling up my E-mail, now it is my turn. I think this list program is great and I have learned much in a short time. Yesterday I installed a set of Pirelli MT 21 tires, with a careful balancing they run smoothly up to the 80 MPH test. Have not read anything about rim or bead locks but I also installed one, hate to lose a valve stem out in the boonies. Having read about how difficult it is to remove and install the carburetor I tried a different approach to adjusting the mixture for the first time. I drilled a small hole in the right side of the adjuster housing about 3/16 up from the bottom and after slowly increasing the hole size I was able to push out the plug with a small nail. To make the adjustment I cut a 1/4 off the bottom of a bit that fits in a power screw driver, it now slides into position and makeing adjustments easy. Certainly stopped all the backfiring with a closed throttle. Hope I have contributed a little something Allan Parker Salt Lake City ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) WINDY CITY KLRists BREAKFAST Date: 13 Nov 1998 23:09:18 -0600 (CST) On Fri, 13 Nov 1998, Alex Jomarron wrote: > GOOD NEWS!!!!!! > > The forecast is for mid 50s!!!!!!!! > > Carlos bundle up and head down!!!! I'll be there. See you tommorrow! Carlos, Milwaukee ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Fw: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 13 Nov 1998 23:38:27 -0700 >>>switched to a Piaa 80/80 which has a lumen and candlepower output equal to >>>100/135 > > >>Howdy Skip, >> >> This sounds like another wonderful thing to add to my bike. The >>local bike shop suggested I call an auto parts place, which I did. The auto >>place wanted to know things I couldn't tell them like part #, standard >>socket, etc. He didn't have any kind of reference for bikes. So, can you >>give me just enough info so I can know what to ask for? >> >>thanks! >>eric > > > Eric, > I typed the wrong wattage for the Piaa. It draws 80/80W but is rated as >a 115/135W. I typed 100/135W in the previous post. > This is Piaa`s XTRA White, part no. 15080 and has a P43T base, which is >what the KLR uses. BMW shops carry them and I also found that the Volkswagon >and Audi dealerships can order them . I would call around and compare >prices, as they are an expensive bulb. The average price I came across was >$38. I bought mine at a motorcycle salvage yard, off of a 1997 R1100 BMW, >for >$16 (somewhere around that anyway). > It is a great bulb. Extremely white and powerful. I`m afraid that I`ve >come to like it so well, that when this one blows, I may have to go back on >my word (I swore that I would never pay $38 for a light) and buy one new, >although this one had only 600 miles on it when I bought it. The deciding >factor will be how long the service life is. It is nice drawing 80watts and >getting the apparent output of a 135 watt. > I haven`t any way of measuring the lumens or candlepower but it is >brighter than my previous 55/100W. > As a footnote, for those wondering about current draw, I did run a >80/120W for about three months, till I had the bulb out one day while >measuring the mounting assembly of the headlamp, and my nephew dropped the >bulb. I then replaced it with the 55/100W. I had no problems with the >80/120W while I was running it. The current draw while the highbeam was on >was 9.2 amps. > > > Skip (who believes in a brighter future for all) > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: (klr650) re: Definately NKLR Date: 13 Nov 1998 23:56:02 -0700 >> Subject: computer gender >> >> >A man who had previously been a sailor, was very aware that ships are >> >>addressed as "she" and "her". He often wondered what gender computers >> >should >> >>be addressed. To answer that question, he set up two groups of computer >> >>experts. The first was comprised of women, and the second of men. >> >>Each group was asked to recommend whether computers should be referred >> to >> >in >> >>the feminine gender, or the masculine gender. They were asked to give 4 >> >>reasons for their recommendation. >> >>The group of women reported that the computers should be referred to in >> the >> >>masculine gender because: >> >>1. In order to get their attention, you have to turn them on >> >>2. They have a lot of data, but are still clueless. >> >>3. They are supposed to help you solve problems, but half the time they >> >>are the problem. >> >>4. As soon as you commit to one, you realize that, if you had waited a >> >>little longer you could have had a better model. >> >> >> >>The men, on the other hand concluded that Computers should be referred >> to >> >in >> >>the feminine gender because: >> >>1. No one but the Creator understands their internal logic. >> >>2. The native language they use to communicate with other computers is >> >>incomprehensible to everyone else. >> >>3. Even your smallest mistakes are stored in long-term memory for later >> >>retrieval. >> >>4. As soon as you make a commitment to one, you find yourself spending >> >>half your paycheck on accessories for it. > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: (klr650) re: NKLR Bike computers & GPS mounts Date: 14 Nov 1998 00:38:32 -0700 List, I`m going some posts I haven`t read yet and noticed mention of the bike computers. For the "techno geeks" out there or those wanting a really functional, true motorcycle computer with Rally functions, you should check out Touratech`s IMO series of computers. They have 3 models. They are all waterproof, light, night-lit and low power draw (150mA). They have some nice features, like: - speedometer -revcounte r -clock -odometer -tripmeter - distance w/average speed -destinati on distance with ETA -fuel stop calculator with fuel consumption -external temps. with high and low -engine data with motor temp and battery voltage with other features (as if that wasn`t enough) They carry mounts that will fit almost any bike. A while back someone asked about GPS mounts. Touratech carries some of the most durable and substantial GPS mounts I`ve ever seen. All are extremely well made and all are shock mounted for rough use and vibration. They have mounts for all the Garmins and many others including universal mounts. Their German website is: www-touratech.de The US distributor website is www.ridewest.com Skip (who finds it cheaper to mount his abacus to the bars) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR) Splitfire plugs comment Date: 14 Nov 1998 02:28:56 -0700 >snip< >4 - IMO, the two prong deal is snake oil. It merely offers more potential >paths for the spark to travel the path of least resistance, but it also >blocks the flame front. Somewhere I read (don't start up with me again >guys!) that some racers will swap plugs in multi-cylinder engines so as to >keep the bend in the electrode facing out from the center of the cylinder, >to reduce interference with the flame front by the electrode. > > > Eric, That`s true. Back when I was wasting my time on hot rodding cars (when it should have been bikes ) I picked up the habit of taking out my plugs, marking the top where my electrode was and then shimming the plug till my mark was opposite the combustion chamber. I started doing this because I found out all the Indy and Daytona guys did this, and still do. Skip (who believes a little shimming never hurt anyone) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR) Splitfire plugs comment Date: 14 Nov 1998 23:41:42 +1000 skip faulkner wrote: [...] > marking the top where my electrode was and then shimming the plug till my > mark was opposite the combustion chamber. I started doing this because I > found out all the Indy and Daytona guys did this, and still do. But where do you get the shims? Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650)KLR chains Date: 14 Nov 1998 23:49:50 +1000 bruixot@rmi.net wrote: [...] > And has anyone using a master linked chain on a KLR ever had a properly > assembled one come off? Master linked are the only ones I use. So simple to fit and remove if necessary. Never had any significant problems with such a chain. Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) WINDY CITY KLRists BREAKFAST Date: 14 Nov 1998 09:41:15 EST In a message dated 11/13/98 10:10:27 PM Mountain Standard Time, aviator@csd.uwm.edu writes: << I'll be there. See you tommorrow! Carlos, Milwaukee >> Hey guys! Hope you had fun. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) KLR chains Date: 14 Nov 1998 11:30:16 -0800 I've not a problem with my masterlink after over 6K miles of tri-sport useage. To install the link, you have to compress the o-rings considerably. I believe this makes it a reliable set-up, while allowing for easy removal of the chain for cleaning. Ride Sane, Darrel A12 SoCal Gold Coast (home of the best burritos west (and east) of the Mississippi) P.S. For some of the newer listers who might be interested, you can read journal entries of the five KLR650 riders who rode from Santa Monica, CA to the southern tip of South America at http://www.moonride.com. Three of these guys are planning a follow-on trip from Cape Town, S. Africa to Cairo in 2000, which is dubbed "Ride to the Sun". ****************** And has anyone using a master linked chain on a KLR ever had a properly assembled one come off? tanks - --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) Windy City Breakfast Report Date: 14 Nov 1998 13:38:09 +0000 The gathering of KLRists of Northern Illinois has now entered the annals of KLR history. We were blessed with relatively mild weather. Breakfast comprised of 4 KLRs, 1 Tengai, and 3 BMWs (1 GS, & 2 K bikes). KLRists in attendance were Carlos of Milwaukee, WI; Bill from Montgomery, IL; Paul (w/ the Tengai)of Libertyville, IL; Kenny from Elgin, IL; and me from Osk Park, IL. We all chatted out front of the restaurant next to our mounts. It was mentioned that we have never seen this many KLRs in one place before! Kenny's and Paul's bikes were spotless. Mine was unrecognizeable! I'm sure we provided a nice distraction for the restaurant patrons who looked through the windows at us. The owner set aside a large table for us. From what I heard, the attendees enjoyed the food. Earlier I had joked that I would pay for anyone who did not like their meal. So that was a relief!! I prayed that Carlos liked it because he was our unrecognized long distance winner! The conversation naturally revolved around the venerable KLRs. We talked of modifications made and planned. It was cool getting together and I hope everyone thought it was worthwhile. Someone mentioned getting together during the bike show which arrives in Chicago in February. Hopefully we can pull this off. Also mentioned was a dual sport ride in WI next spring. Although Paul mentioned a winter ride!! Finally, one of my highlights was riding part way home with Bill. I FINALLY got to see what a KLR looks like ridden on the road!! One misadventure took place with me. I left my home with 80 miles on the trip meter. On the way home my bike sputtered, I reached down and turned the valve and it died. I coasted to a stop on the shoulder. Bill noticed that I turned the valve to OFF. DOH!!! I hadn't ridden the bike since August with the exception of a couple of rides around the block. I must have reset the tripmeter to measure a trip and didn't realize it weeks later. Then I also spazzed turning the valve off. My punishment for neglecting to ride this great bike!!! You guys out there should put together a ride, it was fun! I also want to let the attendees know that I washed my bike on the way home. Now it is only slightly dirty!!!!! Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Windy City Breakfast Report Date: 14 Nov 1998 15:22:04 EST In a message dated 11/14/98 11:39:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, alex319@IDT.NET writes: << I also want to let the attendees know that I washed my bike on the way home. Now it is only slightly dirty!!!!! >> Oh, were you on a KLR? I thought I was riding with someone on a full-on Baja racing bike! You mean there was a KLR650 under all that mud??? What color is it? (JUST KIDDING) Was all that dirt from just one trip or an accumulation of several trips? Sure was fun to finally meet up with some other KLR riders, oh yeah, the Beemer guys too! Now we can finally put faces with the names. Cool. The trip was about 70 miles one-way for me, and it was 38 degrees outside when I left this morning; but I STUPIDLY left my vents open on my riding suit on the way there (DOH!), so with them closed I was much more comfortable on the way home. I couldn't figure out WHY I was cold on the way up! DUH. There was a guy at the breakfast with a sweet BMW R100GS who really surprised me, as he raved about what great bikes KLR's are, and how he rented one for his trip with Pancho Villa Tours. He liked the handling, and dirt-ability, and said that he preferred his GS only on long trips (more comfortable tourer). Good comments from Beemer riders. Cool. (My dad's a BMW Die Hard.) All in all a great time. Thanks Alex for putting it together. Satisfied for now, Bill S. A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Windy City Breakfast Report Date: 14 Nov 1998 17:30:35 -0600 Great time. Great food. Great guys. Great bikes. Cold weather. 68miles round trip. That sums it up. CC Kenny S.Elgin IL A12 33k ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) masterlinked chains NKLR Date: 14 Nov 1998 15:38:05 -0800 I hope no one was offended by my recent swipe at masterlinked chains. The only problem I ever had was on my lawnmower engined mini bike years ago. It was no big deal and what's to hurt when it's 2.5 HP and shoe soles make fine brakes. I have, however, heard a few (rare) reports of these links failing. My local supply shop won't do them citing liability concerns. They will only assemble non-masterlinked chains. So if an Evil Wizard wished to install heavy duty nearly free chains, I'd only suggest having them assembled as non-masterlinked. I doubt the problem is with the master link itself but with the possibility of a hasty assembly or an assembly done under some kind of difficult circumstance that could result in a faulty installation. The thing is that motorcycles are not mini-bikes and the result of a failure could easily be catastrophic. (to either rider or countershaft or both) It sure is nice having the ease of maintenance a master-linked chain allows. Perhaps it's not such a risk most people would consider unacceptable, but it is one more thing to go wrong. I feel the less to go wrong the better. Plus, I don't quite have the same blind trust in myself I used to have. Most likely the mini-bike failure was my own fault anyway...an early learning-curve error. that's all, eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) Drill & Jet Date: 14 Nov 1998 17:12:48 -0700 I did it. Drilled out (by hand) my jet with a #53 drill bit and a pen vise. I wanted to be some where around a 1.54mm jet or so. OEM is 1.48mm, and with my new Super Trap Exhaust and air box mod, I was running way to lean and hot. I figured that a 1/16 drill bit was too much at 1.58mm so I opt for the #53 drill bit which would be about 1.50mm. I then used this drill bit as a file or a ream to enlarge the jet even more. Then I used the 1/16 bit and drilled only half way, then reamed the hole again with the #53. Now I should be some where close to a 1.54mm jet since the 1/16 bit still wont fit thru. Coolness! I also punched out the mix cap and adjusted to 2.5 turns out. Revs are faster, & the bike is quicker. I dont know how you guys pull out the cap with out removing the carb, it was a real bitch. I used a very small bit and drilled like indian style fire starting. Fingers only, the pen vise was too big to fit under the carb. Side effects, a sinking feeling in my stomach when I think of future emmisions testing. Im sure I will fail, but I know how to undo the mod. And who knows, maybe Ill get lucky. Tony in Phoenix 1/16=.0625in or 1.5875mm #53=.059 or 1.4986mm ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) masterlinked chains NKLR Date: 14 Nov 1998 21:20:47 -0700 Re: masterlinked chains: I don't think their bad reputation comes from performance. I think it all boils down to a significant lawsuit several years back. The logic required to convince twelve jurors who'd rather be watching soap operas to bilk a manufacturer for several million dollars is not the same logic you need to ride your motorcycle. It's an entirely different focus. Tom ==================== > I hope no one was offended by my recent swipe at masterlinked chains. +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Rally accessories Date: 14 Nov 1998 20:16:40 PST I'm looking for accessories for my '96 KLR650 to make rallying easier. First and foremost are things to increase riding comfort. These things are often 1000 miles or more, plus the distance to get there. (Plus, there's the IronButt...) So, anything that helps in touring would be of great help. Things I'm looking for: - Saddle (I'm contemplating the Russell Day-Long) - Windshield or replacement fairings - Highway pegs - Back rests and such - Rally computer w/fuel consumption sensor Also, comments on any other items are gladly welcomed. Thanks to those who made comments regarding higher power lighting. I'm planning on doing some testing this week to see just how much more electrical current I can draw before draining the battery. I'll post the results here. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: (klr650) XR600 for sale Date: 14 Nov 1998 21:37:42 -0700 Anyone looking for an XR600? It's fully setup for DualSport, and the XR600 is the premier DualSport machine for the kickstarter set. See it on http://www.cycoactive.com/xr It's in Seattle, Washington. I'm selling it cuz I just picked up a sweet young 400.... Also for some winter bench-rideing, you might be interested in http://www.cycoactive.com/horsethief which is a ride-report of a Washington state loop we did midsummer this year. Some cool photos of a cool place. Many of you will say "If an F650 can go there then so can I". That may well be true, but the guy on the F650 is a pretty incredible rider..... Tom +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) masterlinked chains NKLR Date: 15 Nov 1998 00:08:20 -0700 Hi Eric, I have never had a masterlink come off in 25 years of riding. Now I use modern O-ring chains, and the masterlink goes on so tight that if installed properly I can't imagine a situation where it could ever come off. It's just not a significant worry. But do install it correctly and if you don't know how, find someone who does. The modern masterlink clips are really secure, much moreso than the old days. I think the feedback from the shop came from the lawsuit. Garden-variety 520 chain manufacturers now state that their industrial product is **not for motorcycle use**. On the other hand, why not just use the O-ring chains? They last so much longer than the others it's hardly an issue. And you can even run them dry as the main lubrication is sealed within. This is really nice when tiuring and you can't lube your chain as easily. A dry chain also doesn't get your panniers so dirty...... There's several great brands of O-Ring chain. I've had great service from both "RK" and "Regina" which I think last longer than DID but they're heavier. Also had great service from "Titan Tough" Aluminum rear sprockets. Tom ======================= >>Re: masterlinked chains: >> >>I don't think their bad reputation comes from performance. I think it all >>boils down to a significant lawsuit several years back. The logic required >>to convince twelve jurors who'd rather be watching soap operas to bilk a >>manufacturer for several million dollars is not the same logic you need to >>ride your motorcycle. It's an entirely different focus. >> >>Tom >> >>==================== >> >>>>>>> yes definitely what you refer to is a different focus all >right....in fact it sounds like what happened to the private aircraft >industry. I'm sure my own experience was my own fault. But after getting >the feedback I got from my local shop it just seemed like it might not be >worth it. So my attitude is basically to not take the chance, much as I'd >like to have a chain that can be taken apart. > To your knowledge is that all you have heard in the way of failure? >....and thanks for the comment. > >eric +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Question for the LIST Date: 14 Nov 1998 23:26:33 -0500 I am putting a copy of a question sent to me on the LIST for you guys to answer - Chris, The KLR650 LIST is a good place to get answers and opinions on KLR type questions. If you want to be on the LIST - check out the first page of the KLR650 Web Page and click on "LIST FAQs" - it will tell you how to sign on! Let me know if you need help getting signed on. Guys/gals on the LIST, please reply to Chris both direct and via the LIST - He might not be on the LIST for your reply - thanks Bill Name: Chris Black E-mail address: chris.black@sympatico.ca Homepage URL: Comments: I have just purchased a '89 KLR650 and picked up new fork boots. Could someone mail me the easiest way to get these installed. I would also like to know where to get the silver/grey frame paint for touchups. What is a tengai version of this bike? Thanks, great website. Date: Sat Nov 14 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Question for the LIST Date: 15 Nov 1998 08:57:40 -0700 Chris, here is an excellent post from our archives on changing the fork boot (come back Jeff, I'm a gun enthusiast too...).... >I just removed my front wheel so I could install the new fork boots I >got from Fred at Arrowhead and... There's no way they are going to slip >over the bottom of the fork, especially the top part of the boot. It >looks like the bottom of the fork leg MUST be removed for this job to >get done! Is this correct? If it is, how difficult is it to remove the >bottom of the slider? > >Am I missing something?!? Please Help Me!!! I just did this last night, in addition to adding progressive springs. To do the job, you have to remove the forks. I propped my bike on my trusty milk crate, with a 2 x 4 on top of the crate, under the bikes frame as far forward as I could get it, before the frame curves upward. This raises the front wheel about three inches off of the ground. I then removed the front wheel. Before you remove the fork tubes from the steering head clamps, make sure to loosen the top cap, as gripping the fork tube once its off is impossible. You then loosen the eight 12 mm bolts that hold the fork tubes in place and slide them out the bottom. The boots slide off of the top, and the new ones slide on the same way, easy as can be. Be sure to take this opportunity to change your fork oil and get the level right, if all you planned on doing was the boots. Fork oil is cheap, and an ounce of prevention.... You should also take the opportunity to clean any gunk off of the fork oil seal, and inspect them to see if they leak or not. The hardest part of the job is propping the bike up on the milk crate. I had to have my wife slide the crate and board under, while I lifted the bike from the back end. The cool thing I discovered is that if the board is positioned right, its easy to rock the bike slightly forward, and place the "budget swing arm stands" under the swing arms and get the bike off of both tires. What can I say to you pro mechanics out there with the bike stands and hoists, I'm cheap. By the way, put 50 miles on the new springs today, and I really like them. ................................ As for the Tengai...we've never had anyone spell out the differences completely. Gino is the guy to do it...they have different forks and brakes, different rear shock, different bodywork. They were only sold in the US during '90-'91... Most listers who have tried the progressive spring mod are very pleased with the results.... Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Rally accessories Date: 15 Nov 1998 09:40:18 -0700 -----Original Message----- >I'm looking for accessories for my '96 KLR650 to make rallying easier. > >First and foremost are things to increase riding comfort. These things >are often 1000 miles or more, plus the distance to get there. (Plus, >there's the IronButt...) So, anything that helps in touring would be of >great help. How about a Scott Oiler? http://www.actionstation.com/oiler.html I sell the Mk6 kit for $114.95 and the touring model for $148.95. Anyone interested in doing the "Iron Butt" contact me as I have a deal you can't pass up. http://www.actionstation.com/promotion.html Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Windy City Breakfast Report Date: 15 Nov 1998 08:37:40 -0800 Alex Jomarron wrote: > The gathering of KLRists of Northern Illinois has now entered the annals of KLR history. > I also want to let the attendees know that I washed my bike on the way home. Now it is > only slightly dirty!!!!! Glad to hear the Chicagoland cadre of KLRists enjoyed some Kameraderie. I used to reside in Mundelein, IL and quite familiar with the N. Illinois and S. Wisconsin area. Made me want to hop on the scoot and make the ride with you. Alex, if you used one of those pressure washers, beware that they can wreak havoc on your motorcycle bearings (especially considering the seemingly lightweight grease KHI uses). Ride Sane, Darrel SoCal ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Headlight Protector Date: 15 Nov 1998 09:20:51 -0800 Pete- I noticed in your ad in DSN that your '97 KLR has a headlight protector. Would you mind posting the part number and or the source for this item? Is it made specifically for KLRs or a modify to fit type set-up? Thanks in advance, Darrel A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Fwd (klr650) Winter Madness Date: 15 Nov 1998 13:10:38 EST This is the best price I've seen for the year and mileage. And the price is negotiable! Winter must be drawing near. Redondo Ron (happy hunting) FOR SALE 97 Kawasaki KLR-650 Price $2,900.00 OBO 1 owner like new only 630 miles Jim - Phone (909) 793-8937 eMail - JLst@EEE.org Redlands, California ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: (klr650) NKLR/More on Oil Changes; TBN Date: 15 Nov 1998 10:46:42 -0800 A little more on oil contamination and oil changes. If our oil doesn't "break down," and our filters keep the particles out of it, that's great, but there's still fuel, water, and acid contamination. Each is a product of burning gasoline, and some gets into our oil. Unburned fuel blows past the rings and mixes with the oil. Water and acids arrive the same way. Getting the oil hot, as in letting the engine run a long time, tends to evaporate all three out of the oil. In "smog-legal" engines they are recycled from the crankcase as vapors and run through the air intake tract into the engine again, before being expelled as exhaust. Oils with a high PH combat acidity. "TBN," or total base number, is the specification. Diesel engine oils have a high TBN, due to the sulfur in diesel fuels, and the extended drain periods (30,000 miles or so) many truck operators use. I use Amsoil 15-40 synthetic diesel engine oil in my '92 Cummins/Dodge (95k), my '98 Voyager XII, my '97 KLR250 and my '98 KLR650 (A12). TBN in this oil is 12. Film strength exceeds that of any 10-50 or 20-50 petroleum or synthetic blend oils I've seen (according to lab testing reports), and equals other synthetic oils. And I have greater protection against acid corrosion of metal in my engines, than if I used not-diesel engine oil. It's expensive (around $8.50 per quart, in 2.5 gallon containers), but I don't worry about my oil! In practice, non-diesel synthetics with a lower TBN should perform as well for most motorcycler owners, since most won't run their oil long enough to get an acid condition anyway. Since I run my oil 6,000 miles in my engines once they're broken-in, and have run over about 5000 miles, it's not a bad idea for me to get the highest TBN I can. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: (klr650) NKLR/Detonation vs. Preignition Date: 15 Nov 1998 11:02:29 -0800 Skip, concerning detonation vs. preignition: I understand that detonation is caused when an advancing flame front compresses unburned fuel/air mixture, which then "explodes" with a damaging "spike" of combustion pressure which damages piston, bearings, and other engine parts. But preignition caused by advanced ignition timing can cause detonation, can't it, by creating excessive combustion pressures (when the piston is still rising)? In the same way, too-low octane fuel can cause detonation because it burns faster, and mimics the effect of too-advanced timing? Is it correct to say "knock" is from detonation, and "ping" is from preignition? Anyway, I thought I'd clarify my earlier question. I look forward to your reply. Thanks, Rob C. A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dreas Nielsen Subject: RE: (klr650) masterlinked chains NKLR Date: 15 Nov 1998 11:19:50 -0800 > -----Original Message----- > From: Eric Rhoads [SMTP:eroads@europa.com] > Sent: Saturday, November 14, 1998 3:38 PM > To: KLR List > Subject: (klr650) masterlinked chains NKLR > [] > I have, however, heard a few (rare) reports of these links failing. [] > The > thing is that motorcycles are not mini-bikes and the result of a failure > could easily be catastrophic. (to either rider or countershaft or both) > [] > Here's another report for you. I had a master link fail once, over 20 years ago, on my Jawa 350. I was stopped in traffic, and when I put the bike in first and slipped the clutch to go (easy, no jackrabbit start), the bike lurched about two inches and the revs went way up. I looked down to see my chain lying on the ground. I can hardly imagine a more harmless way to break a chain. Just lucky, I guess. Despite this, I don't have any special concerns about master-linked chains, and ran one on my KLR600 from 1990 through this June without any trouble whatsoever. Dreas Nielsen Issaquah, WA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - XR600 for sale Date: 15 Nov 1998 15:06:37 EST On 11/14/98, TomMyers@cycoactive.com wrote: snip >... http://www.cycoactive.com/horsethief which is a ride-report of a >Washington state loop we did midsummer this year. Some cool photos >of a cool place. Many of you will say "If an F650 can go there then so >can I". That may well be true, but the guy on the F650 is a pretty >incredible rider..... Great site Tom. To call that stubborn Viking, Helge Pedersen an 'incredible rider' is an understatement. His show in Fullerton and accompanying book were more than worth the price. Your big fenderbag works as advertised and I've been very pleased with it. But do you really think you'll be able to get someone from the klr list to downgrade and buy your xr ? ;) Redondo (CA) Ron A10 (just a friendly inquisitive fellow lister) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: John Buffett Subject: (klr650) Life Above the 45th Parallel Date: 15 Nov 1998 15:24:35 -0500 Hi Fellow Listers and Riders: Weather here is -5 degrees Celsius and calling for snow. Please sob with me, if you will, as today I put away the KLR after the last short ride for 98. There it sits lonely in the garage until the spring which cannot come soon enuff. At times like these I envy the Southern List Members. I sure find this list useful even if I only lurk on it. Till the spring then... John Northern Ontario ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: (klr650) OT NX 650 question: parts interchangeability Date: 15 Nov 1998 17:30:55 -0500 A friend of mine just pickled up a 1989 NX 650 (a Dominatior in European terms) at a very reasonable price. He wants to know about the number or parts that were lifted from other Honda bikes of the same era. The engine is straight out of an XR650L, right? How different is the seat and suspention? Any information would be useful. Thanks: -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: AGSholar@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Rally accessories Date: 15 Nov 1998 20:49:53 EST << Things I'm looking for: - Saddle (I'm contemplating the Russell Day-Long) - Windshield or replacement fairings >> I purchased a Russell Day-Long seat a couple of months ago. It is very comfortable and worth the wait and price. I installed a full size Slipstreamer universal windshield on my KLR650 and it's like riding a Goldwing. It comes off in less than a minute also. Price was about $60. Greg, A2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Wright Subject: Re: (klr650) Life Above the 45th Parallel Date: 16 Nov 1998 07:04:47 -0500 John Buffett wrote: > Hi Fellow Listers and Riders: > > Weather here is -5 degrees Celsius and calling for snow. > > Please sob with me, if you will, as today I put away the KLR after the > last short ride for 98. There it sits lonely in the garage until the > spring which cannot come soon enuff. > At times like these I envy the Southern List Members. John, This is exactly the reason I moved from Michigan to Georgia. Last winter I rode the KLR about 4000 miles between November and March. Today's forcast is clearing and highs in the low 70s. Sorry! :-) Bill Wright Hotlanta, GA. 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 20k miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR/Detonation vs. Preignition Date: 17 Nov 1998 00:55:08 +1000 Rob Clement wrote: > Skip, concerning detonation vs. preignition: I understand that detonation [and stuff] How I see things: ping=detonation In some motors it sounds like "ping", in others it sounds like a "knock". Pre-ignition is not detonation, but can lead to it. Pre-ignition can occur where a too hot spark plug or chamber deposits or somesuch can ignite the mixture before the spark does. Combustion is relatively normal, and has a similar effect as over- advanced igniton timing. It doesn't necessarily lead to detonation, but can. Detonation is an uncontrolled explosion of the mixture, kind of like a spontaneous explosion of the mix. The pressure rise is very rapid and would happen well before the crank is in a postition to get any significant benefit from the pressure. Correct ignition causes the mix to burn predictably, mostly thoroughly and gives a gradual pressure rise in the cylinder, timed to occur to give the most useful push on the crank via the rod and piston. As for octane rating: A higher octane rating fuel is better at resisting detonation from above spec chamber pressures and/or temperatures, than a low octane fuel, so can tolerate higher compression ratios. The higher the compression ratio, the higher the engine efficiency. Mister_T -- \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\ | RC17 KLR600 Roces BCN FreeBSD 2.2.5-R NT4W (ugh) | | tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au | \|_________________________________________________________________| ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Javier_Munoz.VTR@vtr.cl Subject: (klr650) 1999 KLR 650 Manual Date: 16 Nov 1998 12:19:43 -0300 --0__=nbTOy9jxk8Lp1Pjori8cEtZGR7V028mJT46UsoW6HY9BPkOCKoSRX7ot Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Disposition: inline I --0__=nbTOy9jxk8Lp1Pjori8cEtZGR7V028mJT46UsoW6HY9BPkOCKoSRX7ot Content-type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Disposition: inline Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable =B4ve lost my owners manual and I am willing to pay for a Xerox copy of= one. If someone is interested can contact me at jmunozw@entelchile.net JMW = --0__=nbTOy9jxk8Lp1Pjori8cEtZGR7V028mJT46UsoW6HY9BPkOCKoSRX7ot-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dale Borgeson Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Re: Scott Oiler Date: 16 Nov 1998 09:57:15 -0600 (CST) Fred just mentioned the scott oiler in a recent post. I've been running a Scott Oiler on my CBR600 for two years and it's great as long as you also use the touring reservior. I looked at also putting one on my KLR but there is no place that I could find to mount the touring reservior that would protect it - it's pretty big. I decided that I'd have to make a custom reservior and fit it into a the space between the tubing on the rear sub-frame. Has someone else solved this problem some other way? Cheers -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Re: Scott Oiler Date: 16 Nov 1998 09:34:14 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Fred just mentioned the scott oiler in a recent post. I've been running a >Scott Oiler on my CBR600 for two years and it's great as long as you also >use the touring reservior. I looked at also putting one on my KLR but >there is no place that I could find to mount the touring reservior that >would protect it - it's pretty big. > >I decided that I'd have to make a custom reservior and fit it into a the >space between the tubing on the rear sub-frame. Has someone else solved >this problem some other way? > >Cheers >-- >Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. >"Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor > > > Dale, What kind of oil are you using in your oiler? Have you tried the Scott oil? The tank can be mounted any place that it will fit. The pictures that I have seen show it mounted behind your license plate. Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) Frame Paint Date: 16 Nov 1998 16:37:02 -0500 Many home centers (Home Depot & Lowes in Fla) stock Hammer-rite spray paint. They have a grey color that is as close to perfect as I have seen. This stuff is indestructible and easy to apply-comes in spray and brush cans. I think I heard/read where it is "reinforced" w/ glass of some sort but don't quote me-I just know it is now your average spray paint. Jake in Jacksonville Chris Black wrote: I would also like to know where to get the silver/grey frame paint for touchups. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) Frame Paint Date: 16 Nov 1998 16:47:34 -0500 J.Taylor wrote: I just know it is now your average spray paint. Sorry, should be "NOT your average spray paint" Jake ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Reply to me from Supertrapp about IDS... Date: 16 Nov 1998 17:12:53 EST Here is the response I got from Supertrapp when asking them about IDS decibel levels for the KLR, dyno charts, and the bike it was designed on...... Hello William, Thanks for your interest in our new IDS exhausts. Yes the IDS mufflers were designed on a Kaw 650, however it was a KLX-650C, not a KLR. We don't have any Dyno charts available for the KLR, and we don't publish decibel ratings, as there are so many ways to measure them that comparisons are not very valid. In real world terms - The race core version is fairly loud. I personally don't recommend it for any street use, unless you live in a secluded area. The Quiet Core version is real reasonable, and is only slightly louder than stock yet still provides the additional flow required for better horsepower. It is the best Dual Sport muffler you can buy, period. We have had KLR riders use the new IDS mufflers and have reported excellent results, especially when combined with a better air filter and jet kit. The IDS is not really revolutionary for our company, but evolutionary, as we took the comments from our customers and put them into the new products. Most noticeable is that the dreaded "fender melt" is gone that plagued our exposed disc exhausts. The compactness and slimline design have been well received too. I wish we had had more concrete info for you, but I hope this helps. Good Luck and Great Riding. Best Regards Mark Hudson Sales/Customer Service Motorcycle Drag Racing SuperTrapp/Kerker 4540 West 160th Street Cleveland, Ohio 44135 Phone (216)265-8400 Fax: (216)265-8400 E-mail: sales@supertrapp.com Web address: www.supertrapp.com Just thought somebody might be interested in this, Bill S. A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "FMifflin" Subject: (klr650) 1998 KLR 650 For Sale $3600.00 Date: 16 Nov 1998 14:47:08 -0800 1998 KLR 650 4675 Miles K&N Filter Acerbis Pro-Rally Handgaurds Steel Braided front-brakeline Progressive Fork Springs Kawasaki Tank Bag New IRP Tires All service performed by dealer Extended warranty (3 years) includes towing Never down or off-road. Going back to school forces sale.. $3600.00 Location San Diego, Ca. FMifflin@worldnet.att.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR Reply to me from Supertrapp ...comment Date: 16 Nov 1998 15:22:34 -0800 >>Hello William, > we don't publish decibel ratings, as >there are so many ways to measure them that comparisons are not very valid >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ....Hmmm, I think what he's saying is they don't want to test to EPA standards, right? This probably means that the EPA test standard is so expensive to set up and run that factoring the cost over a given (relatively small) production run would mean less sales, in turn forcing the unit sales price even higher. There must be more to this I don't see but I know you can buy an SPL meter from Radio Shack for about $50 that would give useable comparisons if the test procedure was reasonably uniform. Maybe they can't even do that (for legal reasons). Even then, comparisons between manufacturers would be misleading unless they were made relative to a given source, a base comparitor, like a stock muffler. ....ta dum ta dum....your gov't at work. So much for a comsumer-friendly agency. (This is all assuming my assumptions are any good, but we know how *that* works, heh) Quiet >Core version is real reasonable, and is only slightly louder than stock yet >still provides the additional flow required for better horsepower. >>>>>> I'll bet that's an honest and useful answer there with the base comparitor being the stock muffler. And it sure didn't make their muffler cost more. Now where's that darn ol' dyno test result? They can get a coupon for a free dyno test if they buy a jet kit from Dynojet....maybe someone should tell them. >E-mail: sales@supertrapp.com >Web address: www.supertrapp.com > >Just thought somebody might be interested in this, > >Bill S. >A12 >Montgomery, IL. > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thanks Bill ! eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 14 Nov 1998 09:59:48 +0200 Listers, I've used a 100/90 Watts lamp for three months then I've found out the plug covering plastic had melted somewhat and I switched back to OEM. What do you think the reason was? Maybe the blue glass cover I used on the lamp for a whiter light overheated the lamp? Birol Say, M.D. -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: skip faulkner Kime: KLR650 Page Tarih: 13 Kas=FDm 1998 Cuma 07:18 Konu: Re: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb >Has anyone replaced the stock headlight bulb with something more >powerful? > >I'd like to keep low beam to 55W, and crank high beam up to around 100W. > >Has anyone had charging problems with extended running with the higher >current drain of extra lighting? > Paul, I`ve was running a Philips 55W/100W for over 5000 miles before I switched to a Piaa 80/80 which has a lumen and candlepower output equal to 100/135. I haven`t had any problems and there are many other Listers that have done the same, but it does limit your ability for much else in the way of other accessories. When I had a couple of my fuse blowing episodes, it was with the stock light, none with the 100W or the current 80W/80W,funny huh? Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dale Borgeson Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR) Re: Scott Oiler Date: 16 Nov 1998 17:50:58 -0600 (CST) On Mon, 16 Nov 1998, Fred Hink wrote: > Dale, > What kind of oil are you using in your oiler? Have you tried the Scott oil? > The tank can be mounted any place that it will fit. The pictures that I > have seen show it mounted behind your license plate. So far I've used the Scott Oiler oil. It's fairly expensive but I don't use all that much so it's not too bad. I bought it what you had to send to Scotland - before there were any USA dealers. Even then it wasn't too bad as I didn't have to pay the VAT. I've heard that chain saw chain oil works well and is a lot cheaper. Haven't tried it yet. I know that the touring reservior is intended to mount under the license plate and that's where I mounted it on the CBR. The problem is that the reservior is intended to mount under a european license plate which is MUCH larger than an american plate. The plate on the CBR doesn't even come close to covering the reservior. Still, I can live with it as it is mounted fairly high. The KLR's license plate is mounted much lower and the reservior would be too vulnerable to damage (IMO). If you wanted to mount the reservior in the conventional location on the KLR you'd have to add some extra brackets to support it. Besides, I just don't want that much stuff out flapping in the wind, so to speak. Also, the previous owner of my KLR chopped off the whole black part of the fender and screwed the plate into the white upper fender just under the tail light so the conventional mounting is not possible anyhow. Cheers -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. "Motorcycle Touring For Beginners" at www.visi.com/~dalebor ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: KLR650@webtv.net (Conall O'Brien) Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helge Pedersen Nov.19 Date: 16 Nov 1998 17:46:54 -0800 (PST) SF CA.USA area listers- Helge Pedersen ( www.globeriders.com/ ) is doing his "10 years on 2 wheels" multimedia show this Thursday Nov.19th @ SF State Univ. In case of lousy weather (rain) ,I was wondering if I could catch a hitch via car from somebody. Better yet- anyone riding there? Conall --DIGEST Fremont CA. klr650@webtv.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Mark Subject: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 16 Nov 1998 21:08:58 -0500 Hey Kids, I'm aware of the differences between a standard KLR and a Tengai. However, aside from the beefier suspension and smaller gas tank, what else is different about the KLX-650? Also, what are the differences between the KLX-650C and the KLX-650(R-I think)? I need to know as I may be looking at buying a '96 KLX I saw advertised, suffix unknown at this point. Thanks, Mark, B2 PS: I'm keeping my Tengai. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Frame Paint Date: 16 Nov 1998 17:57:36 -0800 I have used Hammerite spray paint on other projects. I did not like it much. It does not cover well, its thin, and either runs or takes forever to dry, It's kinda pricey also. I have a neighbor that works for the railroad. He seems to have access to anything not nailed down real well. He came home with some Rustoleum Industrial Aluminum paint in gallon cans. I touched up some frame indiscretions using it in an airbrush, Almost perfect match. If you don't know anybody in the railroad I think Home Depot has it. peace Morgan (anybody wanna buy a caboose?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: duftler@us.ibm.com Subject: (klr650) Shims for spark plugs... Date: 16 Nov 1998 21:13:15 -0500 >Ted Palmer wrote: > >skip faulkner wrote: > >[...] >> marking the top where my electrode was and then shimming the plug till my >> mark was opposite the combustion chamber. I started doing this because I >> found out all the Indy and Daytona guys did this, and still do. > >But where do you get the shims? > >Mister_T Ted, Summit Racing used to sell a kit for just this purpose. I can dig up the catalog for more specifics if you are interested. -Matt Duftler Tarrytown, NY ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) XR600 for sale Date: 16 Nov 1998 12:11:15 -0700 Hello Hugh, Have you ever seen a living room with all the lampshades covered in plastic? Twenty years later, they're still in "new condition" at the garage sale. My advice is to set your bike up so you can RIDE it, and the sooner the better. Tom ====================== >At 09:37 PM 11/14/98 -0700, you wrote: >>Anyone looking for an XR600? It's fully setup for DualSport, and the XR600 >>is the premier DualSport machine for the kickstarter set. See it on >>http://www.cycoactive.com/xr It's in Seattle, Washington. I'm selling it >>cuz I just picked up a sweet young 400.... > >Tom, > >Sorry, I'm not looking for a XR600 (tho maybe I should be), but looking at >your web page led me to write you a question. I note that you put in >lowering links and dropped the front end. I have been thinking about doing >the same on my "new" '94 KLR, partly so I can put on a Russell seat and use >it more comfortably as a long-haul dirt roader. I'm probably taller than >you (5'10", 32" inseam, and 175 lbs without riding gear, but also 66 so >less muscular). How has your experience with the lowered bike been? Have >you regretted giving up the road clearance? I'm not sure about the stock >clearance on an XR, but a KLR is 9.4"; so it would probably come down to >about 8". I know that Gino just spoke highly of lowering links, and I have >been remembering the old CLs and XLs that were much flatter than current >dirt bikes, but I'm looking for advice. I think I can learn to handle the >KLR adequately (I'm new to dirt), but I'm imagine that dropping it would >make life easier. > >Thanks for any comments. Incidentally, I'm in Gig Harbor, W of Tacoma. Do >you know any riding groups (preferably of geezers) around the area? > > >Hugh Stout >'74 R90/6 >'78 CB400T2 >'94 KLR650 +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) KLX vs KLR Date: 16 Nov 1998 20:53:15 PST Whether the KLR or KLX is "better" depends upon your purposes and character. The KLX has better suspension, stronger frame, more modern motor, better brakes. The KLR has a bigger gas tank, better seat, better parts availability, more after market parts. Sooo, if you are interested in the most dirt-competent bike, the KLX is it, fur sure. If you are interested in a buy-it and ride-it adventure tourer, the KLR is your bike. Me, I rather like to roll-my-own, so I've chosen to make a KLX into an adventure tourer, with a fair amount of aftermarket parts, e.g, custom seat and Acerbis tank. The KLX's go pretty cheaply since they are discontinued in the US, so net cost for such customization isn't that bad. Marick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) NHTSA defects/recalls Date: 16 Nov 1998 21:05:01 -0800 List, If anyone is interested.....below is the site for the National Highway Traffic Safety Admistration office of defects and recalls. Useful for discovering which of your vehicles may have been subject to recall or have been issued service bulletins for safety or other issues. Among other things you can search for cool stuff like "secret warranties". Easy to navigate and use. There must be over 70 manufacturers listed, from Acura to Winnebago. I didn't look far but it appears there's no safety or defect issues on the KLR and but two models (not KLR) of Kawasaki listed....they mentioned a leaking radiator drain bolt for a Vulcan 1500... By the way.....anybody want to buy a '93 Caddy Eldo? Real cherry and I'll make you a really sweet deal :) Just kidding, I really drive an old pick-up that I already know is a deathtrap. Who needs NHTSA? Here it is anyway: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/ hope that works, eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 17 Nov 1998 00:22:16 -0500 At 09:08 PM 11/16/98 -0500, Mark wrote: >Hey Kids, > >I'm aware of the differences between a standard KLR and a Tengai. However, >aside from the beefier suspension and smaller gas tank, what else is >different about the KLX-650? Everything. The engines may seem identical at first glance, but closer inspection will reveal that, while very similar in overal layout and design, they are completly different motors. Same with ther rest of the bike. The turn signal lenses seem to be the same. Other than that, I cant think of another part that would interchange. -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR/More on Oil Changes; TBN Date: 17 Nov 1998 00:04:07 -0700 Rob wrote: > >If our oil doesn't "break down," and our filters keep the particles out of >it, that's great, Rob, don`t get me wrong, I was over-simplifying. To a degree, oil does have some molecular separation over time, but due to shorter polymer chains in modern oil compositions, it`s less severe and takes longer. As an engine heats up, it contributes to this by loosening the molecular bonds and allowing the chains to be stretched, which makes them more suceptable to separating. Oil has several functions, lubrication being just one. The other jobs of oil are: cooling (carries heat away from frictional surfaces and helps prevent heat buildup), cleans (removes contaminates from the frictional areas) and other minor contributions. All of the above are seriously degraded with dirty oil. Contaminated oil (by particulates) will hold heat longer, looses ability to clean (reaches saturation point and start distributing the contaminates in particular areas of the engine, i.e. sludge) and lubricating properties are reduced. When you change your oil, but not your filter, your fresh oil will become even more quickly contaminated, due to a partially and eventually, a completely, clogged filter. The oil will be bypassing the filter and no further filtration will occur. but there's still fuel, water, and acid contamination. >Each is a product of burning gasoline, and some gets into our oil. Unburned >fuel blows past the rings and mixes with the oil. Water and acids arrive >the same way. Getting the oil hot, as in letting the engine run a long >time, tends to evaporate all three out of the oil You are right. Shell and Mobil say that it generally takes the oil to be at a temperature of 175`F to 180`F for those type of contaminates to boil off. That`s why short runs and the practice of running an engine while stationary to "loosen it up" while inactive, tends to cause more harm than good. If it`s not ridden to sufficiently heat it up, you`ll just distribute the water and acids to other parts of the engine, and cause internal corrossion, if allowed to sit. >Oils with a high PH combat acidity. "TBN," or total base number, is the >specification. Diesel engine oils have a high TBN, due to the sulfur in >diesel fuels, and the extended drain periods (30,000 miles or so) many truck >operators use. > I don`t know about where you live, but here in Montana, the sulfer levels have been reduced in our diesel fuel to such a point, and I thought nation wide, that we have to use lubrication additives to properly lubricate our engines and specifically, the injector pump. >I use Amsoil 15-40 synthetic diesel engine oil in my '92 Cummins/Dodge >(95k), my '98 Voyager XII, my '97 KLR250 and my '98 KLR650 (A12). TBN in >this oil is 12. Film strength exceeds that of any 10-50 or 20-50 petroleum >or synthetic blend oils I've seen (according to lab testing reports), and >equals other synthetic oils. And I have greater protection against acid >corrosion of metal in my engines, than if I used not-diesel engine oil. > >It's expensive (around $8.50 per quart, in 2.5 gallon containers), but I >don't worry about my oil! In practice, non-diesel synthetics with a lower >TBN should perform as well for most motorcycler owners, since most won't run >their oil long enough to get an acid condition anyway. Since I run my oil >6,000 miles in my engines once they're broken-in, and have run over about >5000 miles, it's not a bad idea for me to get the highest TBN I can. I too, have been running Amsoil 15W/40 in my KLR for about 4000 miles now. If I stay with synthetic, I`ll be going to Mobil 1. I`ve read three research studies where the Mobil 1 (not motorcycle) has had significantly higher index figures (heat, viscosity retention, thermal stability etc..) than all other synthetics. One of the study`s web site was posted here on the List several months ago. After Tom`s post, I called Shell and talked to a friend of mine there to find out if the filter being more important to synthetic oil than mineral oil still holds true. He said yes, and the reason being that synthetics are far superior in entraining and suspending particulate contaminates. Because of this, it is very important to have a new filter every oil change. Thats why engines on synthetics are so clean, but that cleanliness leads to short oil life if not filtered out. It comes down to this; if you`re going to change your oil every 500 miles, I wouldn`t change my filter either, but I`m not going to change my oil every week. Second, if you go 3000 + miles between changes and don`t change your filter, why need a filter at all? Because at that mileage, your filter is already mostly clogged anyway, and the oil bypasses it. Also, the more dusty and dirty your riding conditions, the quicker that will happen. I simply don`t see why some people won`t spend $3 or $4 dollars every 3000 to 4000 miles to help insure the longevity of their engine, even if they don`t believe a filter helps that much. IMHO. Skip( who`s sorry for getting on the soapbox) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR/More on Oil Changes; TBN Date: 17 Nov 1998 00:16:04 -0700 Rob, I forgot to say that you were right in that synthetics don`t degrade as quickly as mineral oils, a documented fact. That, lower oil temps and engine cleanliness is why I am now using the Amsoil. But remember that those that choose not to go synthetic do so with a very good track record on mineral oils. There is many a car and motorcycle out there that has and will continue to get a lot of miles and trouble free service on good ole mineral oil. Skip ( who has trouble breaking tradition) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: (klr650) Re: Oil and Filters Date: 17 Nov 1998 01:08:49 -0700 Hi Skip, Thanks for the detailed response. A lot can be said about oil.......by salesfolk and scientists and hobbyists alike. Discussing it can amount to volumes and there is no shortage of BS to sift thru as you're well aware. I never intended to spend so much time on the *first* response....... Also I wasn't talking synthetic oils, which is really a different subject. I have no argument that a filter enhances the usable life of an engine. BUT until the point where it plugs up and starts to bypass, a new filter works no better than an old one, and possibly worse. The issue then becomes "how long can you run it before it's plugged", provided plugging is an issue. I have a very hard time believing that a good-running motorcycle could plug one up under normal conditions. Maybe you've witnessed one plugged under normal conditions on a motorcycle. Sludge could do it, but I've never seen any sludge whatsoever in my motorcycles. I've taken them off after running thru **four** oil changes and inspected carefully. There's no visible goober on the pleats. Nothing piling up. No sediment in the vicinity of the filter. Nothing short of a flow-test would convince me that it's plugged. The best examination of the bypass route does not indicate that it was bypassing. Aircraft experience is good to have but aircraft methodology is often driven by lawsuits and threats thereof, and is often too conservative for real-life application. I'm a little curious how anyone's oil knowledge fits these two real-life examples here: 1) Air-cooled Volkswagen engines, for about 40 years had no filter at all, and they easily run over 100,000 miles, with 150k and 200k by thousands upon thousands of owners. This real-life example with NO filter suggests that the "fresh filter" is more "hobby" than necessity. Is this refutable? If so I'm quite interested. 2) Kind of a re-cap here: On my big single-cylinder motorcycles, the oil starts to "disappear"at around 500-1000 miles, and the color is still honey-brown, not black. This is off-road miles, which might be equivalent to 3000(?) 5th gear hiway miles. Changing the oil makes the oil-burning condition "go away". One conclusion appears to be in line with my observations which say "the oil is dead, not the engine". Also, my motorcycles are aircooled which can be harder on the oil than watercooled. I'd really enjoy a plausible theory for this and am again interested. I pay fairly good attention , I think. (?) The strongest case I've heard/read is that chemical (unfilterable) contaminants such as acids and combustion by-products are the most significant cause of (petroleum) oil degradation, and that the additives just get "used up". Not a filtration issue at all. Better oils have better additives thus more capacity for contaminants. I really can't say I've ever heard of (mineral) oil lasting forever, but I could certainly be wrong. Just a thought.....Let's just hit this from another angle........ If filtration was cause of degradation then the easy solution is to **filter better**, right? So why the **glaring lack** of 2,3,4,5-stage aftermarket oil filters at the autoparts stores? Why wouldn't this go bigger than Splitfire plugs, for example? Wouldn't "better filtration" be a fairly significant environmental issue? Is it remotely possible that the Autoparts marketeers (and the enviros) just haven't noticed? Not likely. Thanks for the discussion, it was fun, interesting, too time-consuming. Gotta get off this damn computer!! Tom (but I remain "unrepentant" over the "filter hobby" issue) +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: KLR Fuel-tank graphics removal Date: 17 Nov 1998 09:01:58 -0700 Any suggestions for Doug...be sure and respond directly to him... -----Original Message----- >Kurt; >Before I attempt to remove my fuel-tank graphics, I was wondering if you >had any suggestions. With a clear-coat covering the factory decal, >removal without damage to paint could be difficult.I thought perhaps a >light wet-sand (ie.800 grit) or some type of rubbing >compound. >Any suggestions or tricks you may have heard of to assist me in >obtaining the cleanest result would be much >appreciated. >Thanks >Doug Boyd > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) (nklr650) Life Above the 45th Parallel Date: 17 Nov 1998 15:57:13 PST John Buffett wrote: "Hi Fellow Listers and Riders: Weather here is -5 degrees Celsius and calling for snow...." Weather here is 85 degrees, somewhat humid, with hypnotic visions of scantily clad, beautifully tanned Panamanian & Colombian women presenting the only real road hazard. I feel for you man... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" Panama City, Panama (waaaay south of Northern Ontario) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Helge Pedersen Date: 17 Nov 1998 16:18:45 PST >Helge Pedersen ( www.globeriders.com/ ) >is doing his "10 years on 2 wheels" multimedia show this Thursday >Nov.19th @ SF State Univ. Does anybody know if/when Helge is going to be in Portland or Seattle? Or did I already miss the boat? I have a brother and a sister who would probably find his presentation interesting. Thanks in advance. Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Helge Pedersen Date: 17 Nov 1998 17:45:21 -0700 Hello Juan, See http://globeriders.com which which is Helge's webpage. http://www.globeriders.com also works for some reason. Look around for a link to his show schedule. I can't remember if there is another Portland or Seattle show coming up. Tom =============================== >>Helge Pedersen ( www.globeriders.com/ ) >>is doing his "10 years on 2 wheels" multimedia show this Thursday >>Nov.19th @ SF State Univ. > >Does anybody know if/when Helge is going to be in Portland or Seattle? >Or did I already miss the boat? I have a brother and a sister who would >probably find his presentation interesting. Thanks in advance. > >Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR >"El Lobo Solo" > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - NHTSA defects/recalls Date: 17 Nov 1998 18:54:37 -0700 Is this the same NHTSA that tried to tell the American public that German autobahns had much higher death rates than US interstates? The same NHTSA that was finally taken to task by the German ambassador and Mercedes-Benz? The same NHTSA that finally admitted that they had included East German non-autobahnen in their "study"? The same NHTSA that has consistently lied about motorcycle helmet effectiveness and promoted highway-fund blackmail against states without mandatory helmet laws? The same NHTSA whose taxpayer-paid publications say that letting air out of your cage tires will not give you better traction in offroad conditions? The same NHTSA that has consistently misrepresented the effectiveness of "killer" air bags while the Europeans were smart enough to offer lower lethality/low-power bags many years ago? Remember that the NHTSA is not your friend. Dr Robert (He's not a real doctor - just an aerospace safety engineer). Eric Rhoads wrote: > List, > > If anyone is interested.....below is the site for the National > Highway Traffic Safety Admistration office of defects and recalls. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 17 Nov 1998 18:56:28 -0700 Someone mentioned that the KLX has/had a more advanced engine. Care to elaborate? tanks --rr Tom Simpson wrote: > At 09:08 PM 11/16/98 -0500, Mark wrote: > >Hey Kids, > > > >I'm aware of the differences between a standard KLR and a Tengai. However, > >aside from the beefier suspension and smaller gas tank, what else is > >different about the KLX-650? > > Everything. The engines may seem identical at first glance, but closer > inspection will reveal that, while very similar in overal layout and > design, they are completly different motors. Same with ther rest of the > bike. The turn signal lenses seem to be the same. Other than that, I cant > think of another part that would interchange. > > -Tom > '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Rottenberg Subject: (klr650) Piaa Xtra White # 15680 Date: 17 Nov 1998 21:04:13 -0500 Hi, First of all, Skip, I hate ya ! (:)) I was reading your post about the Piaa Light Bulb Xtra White blah blah blah ... and I knew I had to have it ! I started looking at the net for them, and in altavista.com I inserted piaa xtra white I think, and it came back with a bunch of very interesting links, Some of them had the bulbs advertised for $52 for a pair, The one thing that differs from your post is the part #, u listed it as 15080, and they had 15680, for a 80/80 = 115/135 H4 bulb. So after 10 minutes of staring at the monitor and imagining myself with the whitest lights in the block ...... I went out and started looking at Discount Auto Parts, PEP Boys, Parts America, Auto Zone (FL) ... finally, parts america special ordered them for me, $79.95 + tax. For some reason I like spending my money localy, even if it costs me a coyple of bucks more, instead of buying thru the net. So here I am, spending $85 that I DON'T really need, but gotta have them !! "Jeeezz .. it's always something with you ..." (Doesn't that phrase sound a little TOO familiar ?) Thanks for the info on them Skip, I'll report to y'all in 7/10 working days when I get them. Steve in Tampa (Lookin' forward to a brighter future) 98 B12 95 KLR 650 Ps: Skip, next time u have info on one of those items we have to have, keep it to yourself please !! :) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Piaa Xtra White # 15680 Date: 17 Nov 1998 19:26:54 -0700 -----Original Message----- >>links, Some of them had the bulbs advertised for $52 for a pair, The one >thing that differs from your post is the part #, u listed it as 15080, and >they had 15680, for a 80/80 = 115/135 H4 bulb. This url lists the 15080 at $35.95 and the 15680 (2) at $69.95. Maybe it is the same bulb in packages of two... http://www.autobahnint.com/AIM_store/Html/PIAA/PIAA_HTML/PIAA_Bulbs.htm Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) Skip's breaker plan Date: 17 Nov 1998 21:36:53 -0500 I was scanning archived posts tonight and realized that I may have missed Skip's breaker install to replace the KLR's fuse. Has that been posted somewhere? I recently installed a set of Hella lamps (an upgrade from the previous running lamps I was running) in serial and would like the security of the breaker just in case. Jake in Jacksonville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Skip's breaker plan Date: 17 Nov 1998 19:51:47 -0700 >I was scanning archived posts tonight and realized that I may have >missed Skip's breaker install to replace the KLR's fuse. Has that been >posted somewhere? I recently installed a set of Hella lamps (an upgrade >from the previous running lamps I was running) in serial and would like >the security of the breaker just in case. > >Jake in Jacksonville You haven't missed it Jake...he's been too busy hunting elk, trying to keep his marriage together, keepin all the planes in the northwest in the air where they belong, helping everyone on the DUST list keep their bikes lubed correctly, and tonight, watching the meteor shower. Redondo Ron and I have offered ourselves up as guinea pigs for "son of breaker install" we plan on doing digital pics and then passing it on to Gino and then Bill for the website...We've asked him to post it privately for that reason. Let me know if you want in on the first round of Dr. Moreau's experiments..... Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT just south of Fruit Heights ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Josh Sammons" Subject: RE: (klr650) (nklr650) Life Above the 45th Parallel Date: 17 Nov 1998 20:34:30 -0700 God I envy you. Josh '92klr650 -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Juan Villarreal Sent: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 4:57 PM Cc: KLR650@lists.xmission.com Weather here is 85 degrees, somewhat humid, with hypnotic visions of scantily clad, beautifully tanned Panamanian & Colombian women presenting the only real road hazard. I feel for you man... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" Panama City, Panama (waaaay south of Northern Ontario) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tony Subject: (klr650) Screaming Brakes Date: 17 Nov 1998 20:57:39 -0700 I didn't get the screaming brake at first, it showed up after a hundred miles or so. An old biker friend told me that the pads vibrate and I should try putting RTV on them to dampen these oscillations. I gooped them up with RTV and then installed them so that the calipers adhered to the glue. It worked! No more screaming front brake. I drilled out the main jet to something close to a #155. Adjusted the mix valve to 2 &1/2 turns out, and I have your old Super Trap Installed. I tried the no air box lid, and I started to get some real bad sounds coming from the head during heavy acceleration with high rpms. Kind of funny, this knocking is non existent during the cold morning commute. Guess cold air is ok for it. Bike is much faster in this condition, however I reinstalled the airbox cover and haven't heard the knocking since. By the way, Im amazed at how fast the filter gets dirty riding it on the street. Maybe time for a K&N. Tony jfountain@webtv.net wrote: > I had the door removed from the airbox > that served the same purpose as putting > holes in the box. the jetting is changed > from stock I think I was up to a size #155 > main jet. also the reason you buy the > actual jetting kit is to get the different > tapered needle jet. the shop people seem > to not be too knowledgable as far as hop > up work to these bikes. not much interest > or money to be made. that is where the > web site for the newsletter comes in > handy. that is the best place to seek > advice on these bikes. If you have never > visited the site it is at > www.geocities.com/klr~dsn > I am curious as to what caused the > vibration problem when you installed the > rotor. let me know what you did with the > RTV that helped? > jeff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 17 Nov 1998 23:23:37 -0500 At 06:56 PM 11/17/98 -0700, bruixot@rmi.net wrote: >Someone mentioned that the KLX has/had a more advanced engine. Care to elaborate? I dont claim to be an expert on the KLX, but from what I gather it is a more highly strung machine. I have also been lead to belive that the KLX top end is more fragile than the KLRs. -Tom dislikes high strung machinery '96 KLR 650 >Tom Simpson wrote: > >> At 09:08 PM 11/16/98 -0500, Mark wrote: >> >Hey Kids, >> > >> >I'm aware of the differences between a standard KLR and a Tengai. However, >> >aside from the beefier suspension and smaller gas tank, what else is >> >different about the KLX-650? >> >> Everything. The engines may seem identical at first glance, but closer >> inspection will reveal that, while very similar in overal layout and >> design, they are completly different motors. Same with ther rest of the >> bike. The turn signal lenses seem to be the same. Other than that, I cant >> think of another part that would interchange. >> >> -Tom >> '96 KLR 650 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (Francis Smith) Subject: Fwd: Re: (klr650) NKLR - NHTSA defects/recalls Date: 17 Nov 1998 22:37:20 -0800 (PST) --WebTV-Mail-1395864009-4441 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit --WebTV-Mail-1395864009-4441 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAuAhUAvflCnzRFBNZ+6bK6dmpzABKG3mgCFQCq78vPqaF1kicEPKcT+6/231VEzw== Message-ID: <24698-36526AC4-8131@mailtod-141.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) Dr. Robert: I wish you'd just speak your mind about the NHTSA and quit beating around the bush!. I'm with you 100%. Jim - Palmdale --WebTV-Mail-1395864009-4441-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: NKLR Oil and Filters Date: 17 Nov 1998 23:47:16 -0700 >Hi Skip, > >Thanks for the detailed response. A lot can be said about oil.......by >salesfolk and scientists and hobbyists alike. Discussing it can amount to >volumes and there is no shortage of BS to sift thru as you're well aware. >I never intended to spend so much time on the *first* response....... Also . > >I have no argument that a filter enhances the usable life of an engine. >BUT until the point where it plugs up and starts to bypass, a new filter >works no better than an old one, and possibly worse. The issue then >becomes "how long can you run it before it's plugged", provided plugging is >an issue . Sludge could do it, but >I've never seen any sludge whatsoever in my motorcycles. > . There's no visible goober on the pleats >No sediment in the Nothing short of a flow-test >would convince me that it's plugged >route does not indicate > >Aircraft experience is good to have but aircraft methodology is often >driven by lawsuits and threats thereof, and is often too conservative for >real-life application. > The strongest case I've heard/read is that chemical (unfilterable) >contaminants such as acids and combustion by-products are the most >significant cause of (petroleum) oil degradation, and that the additives >just get "used up". Not a filtration issue at all. Better oils have >better additives thus more capacity for contaminants. I really can't say >I've ever heard of (mineral) oil lasting forever, but I could certainly be >wrong. >Thanks for the discussion, it was fun, interesting, too time-consuming. >Gotta get off this damn computer!! > >Tom > >(but I remain "unrepentant" over the "filter hobby" issue) Tom, Hey partner, I agree, I never meant to get into this oil and filter thing this far. I`m a sucker for it though,as I said earlier, I`ve had an interest in lubrication a long time, and through connections at work, try to stay abreast of any new and documentable info. It`s an ongoing development that will go on as long as we have two pieces of something rubbing against each other to the point of wear, an along with it, the train of varied opinions. I`m sort of a doubting Thomas, and have to see proof and evidence before I change my mind about most things. My real world experience has been different than yours and that`s where we`re at. A couple of responses. I`ve never seen sludge in any of my filters or aircraft filters either. A filter that restricts flow is not filled with evident sludge or generally large particles (except metal), but what happens is the filter becomes saturated with oil that has minute contaminates. I won`t waste your`s or the List`s time on this part, but it has been demonstrated and documented;and flow tests have borne this out. Aircraft maintenance practices have not been guided by lawsuits until recently. Lives and engine manufacturers in the race to say who`s engine will last longer, have been the major stimuli for developing proven maintenance guidelines. When aircraft engines started using pleated canister filters instead of the mesh screens, all things else being the same, TBO`s (time between overhauls) started becoming further apart. That`s just plain (no pun intended) "real life proof" with no special studies or research. Owners saw it for themselves. As for the color of your oil, most drained oil should still be dark brown to honey if your engine is running properly. Most particulate contamination is not that visible. We do regular oil analysis on most aircraft, and you wouldn`t believe the stuff the oil picks up in an engine, not to mention environmental contaminants. We use these analysis to determine what areas of the engine are developing unusual wear trends and by the identification of the contaminants, can tell where it is coming from. For oil to start turning really dark or black, you`re usually picking up combustion by-products and are developing other problems. The exception is synthetic oil. It entrains and suspends particulate contamination so well, it will sometimes be very dark early on, if used in an engine that has been on mineral oil for a period of time. Also, many that have switched to synthetic will notice a marked rise in consumption and it has been advised that they return to mineral oil. This is Mobil`s and Shell`s recommendation. They don`t want law suits either. I had a `72` Bug (Baja) for 3 years, and if you`ve worked on them, you know they have loose tolerances (because of air-cooling) and are not as susceptible to bad oil as the later ones and water-cooled engines are. Mine used so much oil, I didn`t need a filter, as I was always adding fresh oil. The stories abound of guys not changing oil for 15 and 20 thousand miles, just changing the filter very now and then, and breaking the 100 thousand mark. Who knows? On the subject of multi-stage filters, they`ve never worked well. Guess why. Champion tried a couple of designs, but the outer stages would begin to restrict the flow to much as they started collecting contaminates, and got to the point that flow was being seriously impeded. They decided to recommend more frequent changed with more porous filters. By the way, Continental Engines and Textron Lycoming will allow you to go to 50 hours between oil changes, instead of 25 if you use a paper pleated filters instead of the more porous metal screens. With the new magnetic, cleanable filters (with multi-stages and by-passes to each stage as one becomes restricted) becoming available to aircraft, they are considering allowing 100 hours between oil changes, if the filter is cleaned at 50 hours. That`s not very conservative is it ? Or is it.? As you stated before, you agree that filters can extend the life of an engine, so why not change them more frequently? If by some chance (like when Clinton turns celibate) you`re right, what have you lost? And if by chance (like the sun is coming up tomorrow) that I`m right, you`ve gotten more miles on your bike before you toss it and get another one. Never mind. Don`t respond to that! I`ve had enough too. You do your thing buddy and I`ll do mine, and believe me, if by demonstrateable fact you`re right, I`ll be the first to admit it. It`s been fun, but tiring. Now I don`t have time for anymore posts, darn you Tom. Skip (who knows a hardhead when he sees one, like in the mirror) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 18 Nov 1998 06:52:42 -0500 I can dispel that rumor.. KLX top end is far from fragile. I've had it up to sustained 110mph.. thats like 7k RPM and the thing just kept going. I've toured NH, VT and NY state on it as well, racking up some serious miles and havent had a single complaint. I picked it up after reading Steve Johnson's review and I have exactly the same things to say about it. After all the top end problems with my KLR600, glad I traded it in for the KLX.:) At 06:56 PM 11/17/98 -0700, bruixot@rmi.net wrote: >Someone mentioned that the KLX has/had a more advanced engine. Care to elaborate? I dont claim to be an expert on the KLX, but from what I gather it is a more highly strung machine. I have also been lead to belive that the KLX top end is more fragile than the KLRs. -Tom dislikes high strung machinery '96 KLR 650 >Tom Simpson wrote: > >> At 09:08 PM 11/16/98 -0500, Mark wrote: >> >Hey Kids, >> > >> >I'm aware of the differences between a standard KLR and a Tengai. However, >> >aside from the beefier suspension and smaller gas tank, what else is >> >different about the KLX-650? >> >> Everything. The engines may seem identical at first glance, but closer >> inspection will reveal that, while very similar in overal layout and >> design, they are completly different motors. Same with ther rest of the >> bike. The turn signal lenses seem to be the same. Other than that, I cant >> think of another part that would interchange. >> >> -Tom >> '96 KLR 650 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MRatta@ADE.com Subject: (klr650) Drilling out a pilot jet Date: 18 Nov 1998 06:55:26 -0500 I've got a KLX thats crying for a #45 pilot jet and I cant find one anywhere locally. Does anyone know what number drill bit I'd need to get a #45 if I drilled out one of my many #40's? TIA :) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 18 Nov 1998 07:47:58 -0500 At 06:52 AM 11/18/98 -0500, MRatta@ADE.com wrote: >I can dispel that rumor.. KLX top end is far from fragile. I've had it up to >sustained 110mph.. thats like 7k RPM and the thing just kept going. I've >toured NH, VT and NY state on it as well, racking up some serious miles and >havent had a single complaint. I picked it up after reading Steve Johnson's >review and I have exactly the same things to say about it. After all the top >end problems with my KLR600, glad I traded it in for the KLX.:) The KLR 600 is a dog, true (apologies to our Australian friend. I suppose he is either lucky or pulls very close maintenece on it. As for KLX fragility, I shopuld have elaborated. From what I understand, its not that they tear up very often but rather that when they do tear up, the head is unsalvageable in most every case. KLR heads have enough meat in them that they can be welded up and remachined, but KLX heads are so thinned down that they are a unrebuildable and thus a total losss every time. -Tom '96 KLR 650 with the thick, reweldable head. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James Naus Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 18 Nov 1998 08:26:37 -0500 How many of these KLX heads have you seen? I have had my KLX for close to 3 years and have only seen 3 other KLX's on the road. I also have 15,000 miles on mine with out one motor problem. The only problem I have had is the kickstand cutoff went bad, so I removed it. James '95 KLX650C (still not on the road yet but the forks are good) > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Simpson [SMTP:bullet@scsn.net] > Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 7:48 AM > To: MRatta@ADE.com; KLR list > Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR v. KLX > > As for KLX fragility, I shopuld have elaborated. From what I > understand, > its not that they tear up very often but rather that when they do tear up, > the head is unsalvageable in most every case. KLR heads have enough meat > in > them that they can be welded up and remachined, but KLX heads are so > thinned down that they are a unrebuildable and thus a total losss every > time. > > -Tom > '96 KLR 650 > with the thick, reweldable head. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: GVBettes@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #362 Date: 18 Nov 1998 08:53:10 EST In a message dated 11/18/98 4:51:19 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner- klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > > The KLR 600 is a dog, true (apologies to our Australian friend. I suppose > he is either lucky or pulls very close maintenece on it. > > I was able to put over 20,000 milles on a 1986 KLR600 before tradit in on a new 1996 KLR. Had no trouble at all. Used for commuting year round in everything from 108 degree summers to 24 degree winters. The only annoying problem in all that time was using a quart of oil every 1500 miles due to a bad countershaft seal. Gary ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Per Eriksson" Subject: RE: (klr650) MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 15:01:36 +0100 Hello there friends I am a KLR 650 rider from Sweden (Northen Europe) I have been on this list for some months, and find it very good, useful and fun. But there is one thing i have been wondering about since i joined the list, and that is milage. My bike is a -89 with 31, 200 miles (50, 000 kilometres) on the clock. I bought it one year ago, and I have done 10, 000 miles on it this year. (15, 000 km) This has been done without any engine-problems at all, only some service done by myself, such as oil and filter changes, valveadjustments and changes of coolant-fluid and spark-plug. The engine still runs very well. To me it seems as not many of you have done this kind of milage on your machines. (Or is it just that you mess with the speedo-meters to make it look like it has less milage than it actually does when you sell it)??? Or is it not that common in the US to ride as much as I do? I took mine on a trip to Germany this summer (on vacation). That trip alone was about 1250 miles and the KLR went flawless. Am I wrong or right about my assumption regarding low milages in the US? In Sweden it's nothing strange with a 1989 KLR with 31, 200 miles on the clock. Have a ball! Per Eriksson ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 19 Nov 1998 01:01:27 +1000 Tom Simpson wrote: [...] > The KLR 600 is a dog, true (apologies to our Australian friend. I suppose > he is either lucky or pulls very close maintenece on it. For a while, I was changing the oil every 2500km, and filter at 5000. One day I'll pull the lid off the engine and have a look inside, if only to see if the spring is still on the KACR. (After one service, I was told it was sitting on a ledge in the head) Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Shims for spark plugs... Date: 17 Nov 1998 21:52:57 +1000 duftler@us.ibm.com wrote: [spark plug shims] > Summit Racing used to sell a kit for just this purpose. I can dig up the > catalog for more specifics if you are interested. Sounds like the sort of thing that I may be able to get here in Oz from a race bits supplier, and even then I might get some blank looks. OTOH, I'm not sure what benefit thes shims might be on a KLR or other motor where the spark plug is centrally mounted, but I can see how I'd use them in a Mini (if I had one again). Mister_T ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Triphenia@aol.com Subject: (klr650) FS : '98 KLR 650, 1,200 mi. San Francisco $3,800 Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:17:53 EST Well, I hate to do it, but this machine has to go. It's an unbeatable SF city bike, but I really don't ride it much, preferring my Triumph 900 instead. It has an unlimited mileage, 4 year warranty, and is less than 4 mos. old. My landlord is griping about me taking up so much space in his garage... he has a point. I've done the usual; K&N, Dynojet, and lowered with the Quality Engineering dogbones. Original jets and dogbones still on hand. First warranty service done (and documented) by me, including the valves (all 4, you get the shims.) Oil changed (with filter, of course) at 100, 200, 500, and 1000 mi. Service Manuals included. I won't budge on the price, it's already a gift. Leave a message (I'm not home much) at 415-665-9731, or E-mail me. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dreas Nielsen Subject: RE: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #362 Date: 18 Nov 1998 08:21:32 -0800 > -----Original Message----- > From: GVBettes@aol.com [SMTP:GVBettes@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 5:53 AM > To: klr650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #362 > > In a message dated 11/18/98 4:51:19 AM Pacific Standard Time, owner- > klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > > > > > The KLR 600 is a dog, true (apologies to our Australian friend. I > suppose > > he is either lucky or pulls very close maintenece on it. > > > > > > I was able to put over 20,000 milles on a 1986 KLR600 before tradit in on > a > new 1996 KLR. Had no trouble at all. Used for commuting year round in > everything from 108 degree summers to 24 degree winters. The only annoying > problem in all that time was using a quart of oil every 1500 miles due to > a > bad countershaft seal. > > Gary > Ditto: I replaced only the float needle (other than tires, chain, and sprockets) on my 1986 KLR600 while commuting on it year-round from 1987 to June of this year. No dog. Dreas Nielsen Issaquah, WA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James Naus Subject: RE: (klr650) FS : '98 KLR 650... question Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:27:30 -0500 You had 4 valves out of whack on the first service? This very strange. Anyone else have to do this? It is good that you did your own service as most shops don't even check the valves at the first service. James '95 KLX650C > -----Original Message----- > From: Triphenia@aol.com [SMTP:Triphenia@aol.com] > Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 11:18 AM > To: klr650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (klr650) FS : '98 KLR 650, 1,200 mi. San Francisco $3,800 > > First warranty service done (and documented) by me, including the valves > (all 4, you get the shims.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dave Wormmeester Subject: Re: (klr650) MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:32:23 -0500 > Am I wrong or right about my assumption regarding low milages in the US? > In Sweden it's nothing strange with a 1989 KLR with 31, 200 miles on the > clock. > Have a ball! > Per Eriksson Hi Per, Welcome to the list. I would say that in europe ridres do not move on to newer models as quickly as the do in the U.S. In europe you tend to see older models still prized by there onwers and thus well mantian with what we in the U.S. would call high milage. As far as total miles riden goes I would say your are wrong. Kurts bike has the same milage as yours but its a '96. Most of us however just spread the milage out. Not putting to many miles on any one machine. Dave W. Grand Rapids Mi. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Copper Canyon Date: 18 Nov 1998 09:37:54 -0500 I have made a few additions to the Copper Canyon article - Few more pictures of Tarahumara Indians, Batopilas and the "Lost Cathedral" near Batopilas. Some of you who went there on the recent tour might be interested. I could use one or two more pictures of Baptopilas - my few are not all that good! if you have one or two you think are good shots of the village I would appreciate having a copy. The article is at: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/copper-canyon/index.html Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:48:09 -0500 At 08:26 AM 11/18/98 -0500, James Naus wrote: >How many of these KLX heads have you seen? I have had my KLX for close to 3 >years and have only seen 3 other KLX's on the road. I also have 15,000 >miles on mine with out one motor problem. The only problem I have had is >the kickstand cutoff went bad, so I removed it. > Personaly, none. A friend of mine was a motorcycle mechanic in the bay area and who has something like 100,000 miles on KLRs, and who at one point worked for a large motorcycle head specialist. He tells me these things and I tend to belive him. He is definatly a "been there, done that" kinda' guy. -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR v. KLX Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:50:00 -0500 At 01:01 AM 11/19/98 +1000, Ted Palmer wrote: >Tom Simpson wrote: > >[...] >> The KLR 600 is a dog, true (apologies to our Australian friend. I suppose >> he is either lucky or pulls very close maintenece on it. > >For a while, I was changing the oil every 2500km, and filter at 5000. > >One day I'll pull the lid off the engine and have a look inside, if only >to see if the spring is still on the KACR. >(After one service, I was told it was sitting on a ledge in the head) > ? You havent had any cam chain problems yet? Seems that most 600s I have ever heard of has wadded up the top end at some point. -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: RE: (klr650) MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 11:58:05 -0500 At 03:01 PM 11/18/98 +0100, Per Eriksson wrote: >Hello there friends > >I am a KLR 650 rider from Sweden (Northen Europe) >I have been on this list for some months, and find it very good, useful and >fun. But there is one thing i have been wondering about since i joined the >list, and that is milage. >My bike is a -89 with 31, 200 miles (50, 000 kilometres) on the clock. >I bought it one year ago, and I have done 10, 000 miles on it this year. >(15, 000 km) > >This has been done without any engine-problems at all, only some service >done by myself, such as oil and filter changes, valveadjustments and >changes of coolant-fluid and spark-plug. >The engine still runs very well. >To me it seems as not many of you have done this kind of milage on your >machines. (Or is it just that you mess with the speedo-meters to make it >look like it has less milage than it actually does when you sell it)??? >Or is it not that common in the US to ride as much as I do? >I took mine on a trip to Germany this summer (on vacation). That trip alone >was about 1250 miles and the KLR went flawless. >Am I wrong or right about my assumption regarding low milages in the US? >In Sweden it's nothing strange with a 1989 KLR with 31, 200 miles on the >clock. From waht I understand, the US is a popular source for european collecors and their agents to obtain vintage motorcycles that are in good shape with few miles on the clock. I think it safe to say that, not only does America not have very many motorcycles in it per capita (a documented fact) but a lot of those riders often don not ride very much. In some circles bikes are either status items or weekend playthings. However, on this list and some others, you will find people that ride a great deal. In my case my KLR is my primary means of transporation and I practicaly live on it, averaging about 10,000 miles a year. I suspect that others here match or exceed that. Lots of BMW riders and Goldwingers also put megamileage on their bikes. -Tom '96 KLR 650 30,800 miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: RE: (klr650) MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 10:39:10 -0700 Hello, It might be related to the price of gasoline. If USA gasoline prices increased to Sweden's prices, I think there would be a corresponding rise in the miles on USA motorcycles. What is the price of gasoline in Sweden? This is "in general" and there are many excetions to the rule. On average, motorcycling is a necessity in Europe while it is more of a hobby in the USA. Tom ==================================== >>Am I wrong or right about my assumption regarding low milages in the US? >>In Sweden it's nothing strange with a 1989 KLR with 31, 200 miles on the >>clock. +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: RE: (klr650) MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 13:05:51 -0500 At 3:01 PM 11/18/98, Per Eriksson wrote: >Hello there friends > >I am a KLR 650 rider from Sweden (Northen Europe) >I have been on this list for some months, and find it very good, useful and >fun. But there is one thing i have been wondering about since i joined the >list, and that is milage. >My bike is a -89 with 31, 200 miles (50, 000 kilometres) on the clock. >I bought it one year ago, and I have done 10, 000 miles on it this year. >(15, 000 km) > Realize that the previous owner(s) of your bike averaged less than 3,000 miles a year. >To me it seems as not many of you have done this kind of milage on your >machines. (Or is it just that you mess with the speedo-meters to make it >look like it has less milage than it actually does when you sell it)??? >Or is it not that common in the US to ride as much as I do? I bought my '90 Tengai almost 13 months ago with 7,800 real, untampered miles on it. I have logged an additional 7,500 miles since. My bike sat in the showroom for two years after the original owner traded it in, and he was probably a poser too. It depends on the person. I ride in all weather, year 'round. My wimpy friend on the other hand only put 1,200 miles on his Vulcan 800 in one year. He won't ride unless it's sunny and warmer than 75F. M ark, B2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - MILeAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 13:02:45 -0700 Tom Myers wrote: > ..... What is the price of gasoline in Sweden?........ > On average,motorcycling is a necessity in Europe...... Just for grins, some recent prices for a gallon of gasoline in US$: Hong Kong $5.01 Oslo, Norway 4.76 Stockholm, Sweden 4.23 Amsterdam, Netherlands 4.12 Paris, France 4.11 Buenos Aires, Argentina 3.75 Least Expensive Locations Price per Gallon Riyadh, Saudi Arabia $ .61 Jakarta, Indonesia .75 Based on work and travel in western Europe in the last 30 years, I would = say that motorcycling in bikes over 400cc is actually falling off there. Gre= ater affluence has allowed people to afford cages, and greater fuel economies = of European vehicles leaves little significant difference in simple fuel eco= nomy between cars and big bikes (that is, not counting scooters/velos). Generalizations do apply: just as we find younger folks in North America = who try to get by on a bike, so do a few Europeans. And naturally, public tra= nsport is Europe is better developed than in North America. FWIW - Dr Robert (Morgonstund har ofta d=E5lig andedr=E4kt !) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Pippo Nicotera Subject: (klr650) This list is Dangerous!!! (And it's also Fred fault!) Date: 18 Nov 1998 23:13:42 +0100 Yes, dear fellow listers... this list is really dangerous!!! A couple of months ago I never though I would have spent any money for my old KLR600... my belief was simply that it wasn't worth!!! I was wrong!!! Reading your contribution to the list (Yes, I'm The Great Lurker!) I rediscovered the pleasure to work on my bike to make it more personal and, possibly, better! (We'll see!) SOOooo... here comes Fred Hink! His readyness to help people on the list with good advices or with hard-to-find parts, made me think that, after all, to get some of the special parts you install on your KLR 650 wouldn't be too difficult... and I e-mailed him for information... then again for my order... then again for some strange requests ;-) to try and save some money!!! The result of all this??? I got a new exhaust, fork springs, sprocket, air box vents.... and a lot of work to do in the next weekends! My wife will kill me! And you, listers, and Fred in special manner, will be responsable of the crime! THANK YOU TO EVERYBODY... KEEP THE GOOD IDEAS ROLLING! ... Best regards from Pippo in Italy. Ciao a tutti, Ciao Fred! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alyef@juno.com (Alex Yefimov) Subject: (klr650) Re: NKLR MILAGE???? Date: 18 Nov 1998 23:56:08 EST I think that car prices with all the added taxes become more expensive in Europe than here in the USA forcing people to find cheaper means of transportation. This along with high gas prices force people to ride, when given a choice between public transportation and motorcycles. I was in the Netherlands last winter/Spring. On days that it was raining the same number of people would still be ride motorcycles and bicycle as on Sunny days. This told me that there probably are not many good choices for transportation. The average income in the US is about 30k/year (correct me if I am wrong) The average small economy car price is $12,000 (again correct me if the number is not close) Fractional car price = 12,000/30,000 = .4 Fractional gas price ( 10,000 miles per year - 30 gallons per mile - $1.10/gal of gas ) $370/$30,000 = .012 If the people on the list in Europe would provide the following numbers for their countries, it would be an interesting comparisons. This may shed light on some differences between US and EU. Alex San Jose, CA On Wed, 18 Nov 1998 10:39:10 -0700 Tom Myers writes: >Hello, > >It might be related to the price of gasoline. If USA gasoline prices >increased to Sweden's prices, I think there would be a corresponding >rise >in the miles on USA motorcycles. What is the price of gasoline in >Sweden? > >This is "in general" and there are many excetions to the rule. On >average, >motorcycling is a necessity in Europe while it is more of a hobby in >the >USA. > >Tom >==================================== > >>>Am I wrong or right about my assumption regarding low milages in the >US? >>>In Sweden it's nothing strange with a 1989 KLR with 31, 200 miles on >the >>>clock. > >+------------------------------------+ >| CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 >| 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 >| Seattle, WA 98122 USA >| webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com >| e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com >+------------------------------------+ > > > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Josh Sammons" Subject: (klr650) oil filter o-rings? Date: 18 Nov 1998 23:18:12 -0700 What are these o-rings that I was reading about on the KLR web page? I use the regular Kawasaki oil filters and have just noticed a black seal on both ends of the filter but nothing else. Also, can any one tell me where to find the Fram or other aftermarket oil filters? Thanks Josh '92 klr650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Josh Sammons" Subject: RE: (klr650) oil filter o-rings? Date: 18 Nov 1998 23:38:15 -0700 Oh, ok. I just figured that you just keep that o-ring on until it show signs of wear. Thanks fred will be in touch. josh -----Original Message----- Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 11:38 PM -----Original Message----- >What are these o-rings that I was reading about on the KLR web page? I use >the regular Kawasaki oil filters and have just noticed a black seal on both >ends of the filter but nothing else. Also, can any one tell me where to >find the Fram or other aftermarket oil filters? Thanks >Josh >'92 klr650 > > > Josh, I sell Fram, Emgo and the K&P oil filters. The o-rings are for the cover over the oil filter. Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Copper Canyon URL Date: 19 Nov 1998 08:40:30 -0500 I have been told by a number of folks that my URL for the Copper Canyon trip is in error - it was! Please try: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/copper_canyon/index.html Thanks \\ Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Oil/Filters Date: 19 Nov 1998 15:32:35 If somebody asked me for only one piece of advice regarding an internal combustion engine, I would say look at the manufacturer's oil change recommendation, then cut it in half. Change the filter (if there is one) with every change but don't worry if you have to skip a filter change once in awhile. About KLR's: Judging from what I hear on the list, I'd say that oil generally gets changed more often than it needs to be. This is a good thing. Filters are quite cheap; running from two to six bucks. So, it doesn't make much economic sense to not change it if you can. If you're on a long trip, change the oil and leave the filter until you get home. Remember, the bike is here to service us. Not us to service the bike. Unless, of course, you're a Borg. Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) K&N Stage one kit for 98 Kawasaki KLR650 Date: 19 Nov 1998 18:19:39 -0600 K&N Stage one kit for 98 Kawasaki KLR650 The part number for your motorcycle is 81-9192. It is the same jet kit as the 97 model. How easy/hard is the installation of the Stage one kit? Avg. installation time? Difficulties? Special tools? Which is the best braided SS brake lines? Thanks in advance CAD/CAM Kenny (Winterizing this Sat.) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Willard Heck, Ranch Manager" Subject: (klr650) Spark Plug Indexing Washers Date: 19 Nov 1998 17:40:30 -0700 Spark plug indexing washers (shims) are also available from Jacobs Electronics (http://www.jacobselectronics.com) They're available for 14 mm. flat or tapered seat plugs. They suggest an average 8hp improvement for a cage wherein "the plug side electrodes don't shroud the spark from incoming fuel." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: TOPWORTH@aol.com Subject: (klr650) PLACEMENT OF IN LINE FUEL FILTER Date: 19 Nov 1998 20:35:56 EST Howdy, I've seen many folks here advise using an in line fuel filter and am going to install one soon. Any suggestions at to the type, and location it is best to install. Not much room in there, I'm thinking between the emissions canister (Cal model) and the Y connection before the line connects to the on/off valve. Thanks in advance for any help. Don in SoCal 95 KLR 97 Wing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) PLACEMENT OF IN LINE FUEL FILTER Date: 20 Nov 1998 09:30:25 -0700 >Howdy, I've seen many folks here advise using an in line fuel filter and am >going to install one soon. Any suggestions at to the type, and location it is >best to install. Not much room in there, I'm thinking between the emissions >canister (Cal model) and the Y connection before the line connects to the >on/off valve. Thanks in advance for any help. most motorcycle dealer has a cardboard display with a couple of dozen of these clear in-line filters. They are cheap...just cut the supply line coming from the petcock to the carbie and push the cut lines on either side. A 30 second job. You don't even need clamps... Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) K&N Stage one kit for 98 Kawasaki KLR650 Date: 20 Nov 1998 09:47:56 -0700 >K&N Stage one kit for 98 Kawasaki KLR650 All the same, and the different stages have only to do with modification of airbox, main jet size, and needle setting. Make sure and order the filter because it doesn't come in the kit. The hardest part of the install is disassembling half the bike to remove the carb. Once it is off the install is easy. You have to remove the sidecovers, seat, tank, "break" the back subframe, remove the airbox, and then the carb. Gino featured a detailed write-up on the steps in the May/June '98 issue by Jake Jakeman. You can send Gino $3.50 for the issue, or call Jake and have him fax you the instructions. We'll eventually get the article on the website. If you don't plan on doing a thorough carb clean or modify your airbox you probably can get by with removing the two throttle cables and choke enrichment cable, loosening the clamps and rotating the carb clockwise to get at the top and bottom. >Special tools? None, other than a drill...bit comes with the kit. >Which is the best braided SS brake lines? You have a choice between Russell and Fastline. Russell makes front and rear but are not protective covered. Fastline makes only the front (I think). I use Russell and left the back exposed and wound the front with ... I use Russells front and back on mine. I don't think Fastline makes a rear. Fred Hink has both. MAW has Russells. For those worried about the Russells not being coated, I followed Rick Clarke's suggestion and used Spiral Wrap, it worked perfectly. The Russell is about 6 inches too long in the front but doesn't cause a problem.... Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Utah riders... Date: 20 Nov 1998 10:14:32 -0700 Received a call from lister Allen Parker last night and there could be a chance for a klr/dualsport ride in the Utah Wasatch this weekend. Any others interested? Kurt A12 Bountiful, UT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: (klr650) Re: (nklr650) NKLR XL250R part sought Date: 20 Nov 1998 13:08:19 -0700 Definitely NKLR: Anyone have or know a used-salvage source for kick start lever for 1987 Honda XL250R? It fits no other year or model, evidently. tanks ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Front brake on Euro KLR650 Date: 20 Nov 1998 13:21:13 -0700 Another picture of new European KLR650 with twin-piston front brake: http://www.kawa.ch/BiAn01-KLR650.htm Makes you wonder why we don't get them here. Is anybody looking into fit on our US-spec fork leg and disc rotor? If they fit, what would y'all be willing to pay for a conversion? --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-9?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: (klr650) Wet Air Filter Date: 21 Nov 1998 01:28:42 +0200 Last month I had a terrible experience. It was a rainy day "a rain storm". The Baby stopped at a traffic light and didn't start again. The tank was full but the fuel tap was at the reserve position (this couldn't be the problem since unless it's not in the OFF position). I cranked her until I became out of battery. Every screw of her was under costant care as usual. I pushed her to a downhill street and let her push start since it could be water in the carburettor or carb icing (I waited for 15 minutes for the probable ice to melt, the environmental temperature was 19 degrees Celcius). After three unsuccessful attempts she started hesitatingly and it was already the end of street but stopped again in the middle of the return. This time I didn't forced it again and fortunately somebody told me about a garage which was very close. I pushed her for about 20 minutes under the rain ( It would have been a shame on me to ask for help since I thought it was my fault on maintenance). I even didn't ask for help from the mechanics at the garage and just asked for a jump start battery. After draining the float bowl (this time it was clean "my fuel filter" but some water droplets were present) and cleaning the spark plug (ignition system was working) I tried it again and again. It was starting but could only idle for a minute or so only when the choke was fully open. I had to let her stay there since I was on my way to a semi-urgent procedure at the hospital. Three hours later I was back again this time with my factory manuals. As a trial I opened the airbox cover and took the element out. It was heavy, bulky and somewhat dirty. I squeezed it and imagine what happened, about 10 cucm of water with oil came out of it. I couldn't keep myself from trying it without the element. Everything was O.K. The lesson: If you wan't to mate under the rain, keep your element oily and clean Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) PLACEMENT OF IN LINE FUEL FILTER Date: 20 Nov 1998 22:37:59 +0200 -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: Kurt Simpson Kime: TOPWORTH@aol.com ; klr650 Tarih: 20 Kas=FDm 1998 Cuma 17:41 Konu: Re: (klr650) PLACEMENT OF IN LINE FUEL FILTER > > >>Howdy, I've seen many folks here advise using an in line fuel filter and am >>going to install one soon. Any suggestions at to the type, and location it >is >>best to install. Not much room in there, I'm thinking between the >emissions >>canister (Cal model) and the Y connection before the line connects to the >>on/off valve. Thanks in advance for any help. > > >most motorcycle dealer has a cardboard display with a couple of dozen of >these clear in-line filters. They are cheap...just cut the supply line >coming from the petcock to the carbie and push the cut lines on either side. >A 30 second job. You don't even need clamps... This is exactly what I did but additionally I've used simple SS clamps. Maybe I'm too much afraid of fire. Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alyef@juno.com (Alex Yefimov) Subject: (klr650) KLR 650 Date: 20 Nov 1998 19:40:59 EST Does anyone have the email that had the KLR for sale this past week. I deleted it, but since my car died yesterday I have a really good reason to by a bike now. Thanks Alex ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (nklr650) NKLR XL250R part sought Date: 20 Nov 1998 18:17:31 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Definitely NKLR: > >Anyone have or know a used-salvage source for kick start lever for 1987 Honda >XL250R? It fits no other year or model, evidently. > >tanks > > > > > Check out this link. http://www.moto-directory.com/salvage.htm If one of these salvage yards can't find you a used part then it is not available. Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 21 Nov 1998 00:57:58 -0700 >Listers, >I've used a 100/90 Watts lamp for three months then I've found out the >plug covering >plastic had melted somewhat and I switched back to OEM. >What do you think the reason was? >Maybe the blue glass cover I used on the lamp for a whiter light >overheated the lamp? > >Birol Say, M.D. Birol, Exactly where is the glass cover mounted? If it is mounted on or directly in front of the headlamp, that is definitely a contributor. I have heard that many bikes have melted wires and even attached fairing parts by installing plexiglass directly on the headlight (with Velcro) as a protector. The headlight is generating a lot of heat that is not being dissipated as well because it`s blocked by the Plexiglas. This probably wouldn`t happen with a 55/65 bulb and maybe the 80/80. I have a piece of Lexan (polycarbonate) attached to my fairing with rubber grommets that act as spacers besides preventing rubbing on the fairing. The piece covers the entire headlamp with just enough overhang around the edges to attach to the fairing. The key point is that I drilled a lot of 1/8" holes in the Lexan to help keep it cool. It hasn`t appeared to have degraded my light, but still protects my headlamp from debris. I put it on when I switched to the Piaa 80/80W`s, and so can`t tell you if it would work with the 100W`s. I had been running 100W bulbs for quite some time on this bike and two others without any overheating. Based on this, logic dictates that if the only thing different between mine and yours, is your blue cover, it must be the cover. Also, for awhile now I`ve been running my lights on larger gauge wire and that has lessened my circuit temps. You could also look ar trying to deflect some wind from the mesh above the fender to the rear base of the headlight. Maybe run a 1" piece of flex tube from the mesh directly to the rear of the bulb? I think I would attack it from the lack of cooling angle first (if you still want to run higher power lights). Hope this helps a little. You may have already thought of this scenario. Skip (who likes hot bikes, but not hot lights) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Wet Air Filter Date: 21 Nov 1998 05:44:04 PST Thanks for the information, Birol. Unfortunately I've heard about this happening to more than one individual, however it's usually caused by a short in the sidestand switch. It's good to know about all the possibilities, though. By the way, did you disconnect the neutral control switch in your KLR? I have a '97 and I heard you couldn't push start it without first disconnecting that switch. Anyone else care to comment? Thanks again... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Nolan Trend helmet? Date: 21 Nov 1998 10:52:57 -0700 Has anyone had experience with the Nolan Trend N70 helmets, particularly with respect to the effects of the top visor/sunshield? The one I saw was not Snell, only DOT (but please don't get started on that part). Does the ventilation system leak rain when closed up? Does the ventilation system actually work as intended? Does the visor grab a lot of air at interstate speeds? Stuff like that. TIA, --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Wet Air Filter Date: 21 Nov 1998 12:55:32 -0700 >Thanks for the information, Birol. Unfortunately I've heard about this >happening to more than one individual, however it's usually caused by a >short in the sidestand switch. It's good to know about all the >possibilities, though. By the way, did you disconnect the neutral >control switch in your KLR? I have a '97 and I heard you couldn't push >start it without first disconnecting that switch. Anyone else care to >comment? Thanks again... > >Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR >"El Lobo Solo" Juan, I was reading Birol`s post and believe that he stated that he was running the battery down trying to start it. If that`s the case, I don`t believe any of his safety switches were involved as they won`t allow the starter online. At least on my A9, the starter can`t get current if the stand is down or not in neutral. Skip ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: print4u@execpc.com Subject: (klr650) repaint KLR Date: 21 Nov 1998 16:17:54 +0000 I am looking to repaint my 88 650 KLR preferably in a "Paris to Dakar" type of color scheme...if you have any suggestions or have pictures that would help me put somethingtogether, I would appreciate it. Steve Kohlmann Milwaukee, WI ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-9?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) Wet Air Filter Date: 22 Nov 1998 00:17:21 +0200 Juan, My neutral switch could never prevent me from push starting. I know this from the first day of my relationship with her (I was out of battery since nobody had charged it sufficiently) but some KLRs do it. I remember somebody had explained the truth about this (depends on the year and model) I'll check my archives as soon as I get back home. (I'm in Israel now for search&rescue training and my secretary rewrites all my mails to you all) I never forget about you my faithful pals. Birol Say, M.D. -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: Juan Villarreal Kime: saymer@superonline.com Bilgi: KLR650@lists.xmission.com Tarih: 21 Kas=FDm 1998 Cumartesi 14:45 Konu: (klr650) Wet Air Filter >Thanks for the information, Birol. Unfortunately I've heard about this >happening to more than one individual, however it's usually caused by a >short in the sidestand switch. It's good to know about all the >possibilities, though. By the way, did you disconnect the neutral >control switch in your KLR? I have a '97 and I heard you couldn't push >start it without first disconnecting that switch. Anyone else care to >comment? Thanks again... > >Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR >"El Lobo Solo" > > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Date: 22 Nov 1998 00:05:16 +0200 -- Kimden: skip faulkner Kime: KLR650 Page Tarih: 21 Kas=FDm 1998 Cumartesi 09:15 Konu: Re: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb > > >>Listers, >>I've used a 100/90 Watts lamp for three months then I've found out the >>plug covering >>plastic had melted somewhat and I switched back to OEM. >>What do you think the reason was? >>Maybe the blue glass cover I used on the lamp for a whiter light >>overheated the lamp? >> >>Birol Say, M.D. > > > > I think I would attack it from the lack of cooling angle first (if you >still want to run higher power lights). > Hope this helps a little. You may have already thought of this scenario. > > Skip (who likes hot bikes, but not hot lights) Skip, I had done everything you mentioned beforehand. (yes even the 2 cm diameter ventilator air hoses directed towards the back of lamp cover)This cover I've mentioned before is some kind of blue glass cap that covers the lamp like condom and the light becomes bright white like new Mercedes Kyripton/Xenon type. It works with 60/55 but heat dissipation is insufficient when 100/90 is used. Thanks for your attention. Birol Say, M.D. Respects everyone but adores knowledge. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: KLR650@webtv.net (Conall O'Brien) Subject: (klr650) NKLR. Trans-Tunisia98 PIX Date: 21 Nov 1998 17:06:26 -0800 (PST) http://Juergen.Koch.net/tunisia98/tunisia98.htm Excellent photos of T/A in Tunisia , taken from the T/A list. Slow-loading 1.3MB. Check it out. Conall --DIGEST Fremont CA. klr650@webtv.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Wet Air Filter Date: 21 Nov 1998 19:07:10 PST Birol, you're the best, man. I'm looking forward to reading about whatever it is you find out. Thanks in advance... Juan Villarreal (not an MD, but I enjoy "playing doctor" whenever the opportunity presents itself) >Juan, >My neutral switch could never prevent me from push starting. I know >this from the >first day of my relationship with her (I was out of battery since >nobody had charged >it sufficiently) but some KLRs do it. I remember somebody had >explained the truth >about this (depends on the year and model) I'll check my archives as >soon as I get >back home. (I'm in Israel now for search&rescue training and my >secretary rewrites >all my mails to you all) >I never forget about you my faithful pals. >Birol Say, M.D. >>Thanks for the information, Birol. Unfortunately I've heard about >this >>happening to more than one individual, however it's usually caused by >a >>short in the sidestand switch. It's good to know about all the >>possibilities, though. By the way, did you disconnect the neutral >>control switch in your KLR? I have a '97 and I heard you couldn't >push >>start it without first disconnecting that switch. Anyone else care >to >>comment? Thanks again... >> >>Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR >>"El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) repaint KLR Date: 21 Nov 1998 22:27:21 EST In a message dated 11/21/98 3:17:03 PM Mountain Standard Time, print4u@execpc.com writes: << I am looking to repaint my 88 650 KLR preferably in a "Paris to Dakar" type of color scheme...if you have any suggestions or have pictures that would help me put somethingtogether, I would appreciate it >> I did this with mine. I picked up white plastic from wrecked 87 models and removed all of the decals. Painted my tank black and put a checkered stripe around it. I always thought an all black KLR with sharks teeth (a-la Flying Tigers) off the radiator shrouds and eyes on the fornt fairing would be drop dead gorgeous. Or maybe an all red KLR with yellow and orange flames would be pretty cool too. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 22 Nov 1998 00:14:29 PST >This cover I've mentioned before is some kind of blue glass cap that >covers the lamp like condom and the light becomes bright white like >new Mercedes Kyripton/Xenon type. Blue tinted headlights (which include white with a blue lens) are ILLEGAL under the light-color requirements for Europe, Japan, Australia and Canada and in every state of the USA. (A fact my neighbor discovered recently. I don't remember the fine, but his car was towed and impounded until morning.) For more info, check out: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/blue_bulbs/ Browse their website; lots of great info on automotive lighting. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: Re: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: Date: 22 Nov 1998 09:06:55 -0600 Paul Christenson wrote: >Blue tinted headlights (which include white with a blue lens) are >ILLEGAL under the light-color requirements for Europe, Japan, >Australia and Canada and in every state of the USA. Hey, Paul, I've seen some NEW cars running them here, so I'm guessing they're OK if they are FACTORY EQUIPMENT...???? ...at least I guess that's what I'm seeing...seen several new (more expensive) cars with kinda blueish, very bright headlights. Hmm, I've also seen cars with blueish DRIVING lights...maybe they're OK if they are 'in addition to' headlights ??? Maybe that'll be our ticket, then...a couple of small 'additional' lights ?? -- hungree home: pzucht@cableregina.com work: pf10021@em.agr.ca also: hungree@hotmail.com VROC 72 WOTI Guardian Whale South Sask Beemer J. Philip Zucht, Regina, Saskatchewan ... Canada, eh! ... 87 1200 Aspencade ... 89 650 KLR ... You can't be young forever, but you can be immature indefinitely. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "rg" Subject: Re: (klr650) repaint KLR Date: 22 Nov 1998 10:09:50 -0600 Gino, My decals are starting to peel on my 87 so I am removing them but I have had great difficulty getting the old decals off. Even with a heat gun they come off in little pieces and leave the adhesive behind. How are you getting the decals off? What type/brand of paint do you use? How do you prepare the plastic before painting? How does the paint hold up to scrapes and abrasions? I'm trying to go to the "minimalist, white, angular and austere look". Taking off all the decals, repainting the tank all white, replaced my blue boots with white boots, ... less is more. Motorcycles should be black, or the opposite? Robert -Original Messages----- ><< I am looking to repaint my 88 650 KLR .. suggestions .... > >...I picked up white plastic ...>removed all of the decals. ...>Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Blue bulbs/lenses: Date: 22 Nov 1998 09:07:36 -0700 Paul - what you are seeing is probably the new xenon lights, which are a very high voltage-excited (very expensive) lamp (retrofit about US$1200 for a pair, and even then assuming the additional size will fit your vehicle), rather than a tinted cover. Conversion involves installation of ballasts and ignitors. The xenon design is actually an arc light, and provides about 2 to 3 times the illumination per watt, than conventional quartz-halogen. The assembly is typically heavy and the system generates some gawdawful voltage internally. The folks with the tinted bulb or tinted shields are asking for trouble from the less-than-finest. For more reading on this subject: http://www.legend.org/performance/mods/xenonfaq.html#q1 Best, Dr Robert (Test riding the Triumph Tiger 900 today) Hungree wrote: > Paul Christenson wrote: > > >Blue tinted headlights (which include white with a blue lens) are > >ILLEGAL under the light-color requirements for Europe, Japan, > >Australia and Canada and in every state of the USA. (snipped) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "rg" Subject: Re: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 22 Nov 1998 11:34:00 -0600 Great article Paul. Very interesting and informative write-up on the mbz site but they are only looking at half the problem from the motorcyclist perspective. Being more night-blind every day I am driven to get the best lighting possible. I am even more driven to maximize my VISIBILITY and PERCEPTION to the car drivers. The mbz article covers "how to see better". We also need to also optimize "being seen better". Plus, KLR owners also need to minimize power consumption and heat buildup. If a filter is used to block light from leaving the bulb the blocked light energy will end up as heat and possibly melted connectors. Beware of filters. Looking at the problem from the other end. Pun intended. Have you seen those "blue dot" tail lamp inserts? They have not been fashion statements since 1955 but they really increase perception/ and visibility from the rear. They are "strange" and trigger the viewing drivers attention. The same is true for those neon license plate frames and the flashing LED gizmo's to a lesser extent. Can anyone comment on the legal implications for blue dots, neon(color) license plate brackets and flashing LEDs? HOW DO THEY SEE US? When a car is approaching a motorcycle from the rear at night, particularly one with dim running lights separated by 12-15 inches, what does the car driver perceive? I'd say the driver subliminally perceives a car 1000 feet ahead, rather than a motorcycle 200 feet ahead? Why do people pull out in front of motorcycles, especially in winter when there are few motorcycles on the road? They "see" us but they don't consciencely "perceive" us. We are just one light in a sea of lights and distractions. Especially if the driver is night blind, chemically impaired, distracted, . . We need to maximize the brightness, visibility and "uniqueness" of our front and rear lighting within the limits of the LAW, and maybe push it to the extent that we can. Sorry for the long winded msg but to me this an important multifaceted problem, Robert -----Original Message----- > >Blue tinted headlights (which include white with a blue lens) are >ILLEGAL > >For more info, check out: >http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/blue_bulbs/ > >Browse their website; lots of great info on automotive lighting. > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: Date: 22 Nov 1998 13:22:37 PST >Hey, Paul, I've seen some NEW cars running them here, so I'm guessing >they're OK if they are FACTORY EQUIPMENT...???? >...at least I guess that's what I'm seeing...seen several new (more >expensive) cars with kinda blueish, very bright headlights. The difference is that that bluish tint is NOT from a filter; they are a xenon bulb; much like what is used in a camera flash. The light does have a blue "spike" in the spectrum, but the light is VERY white. Part of the problem is that the headlights of all the other cars are so yellow that the blueness is exaggerated. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: Date: 23 Nov 1998 00:37:16 +0200 >Hey, Paul, I've seen some NEW cars running them here, so I'm guessing >they're OK if they are FACTORY EQUIPMENT...???? > >...at least I guess that's what I'm seeing...seen several new (more >expensive) cars with kinda blueish, very bright headlights.of small 'additional' lights ?? >-- > >hungree> I'm living in Turkland. Nothing is legal or illegal over here. It depends on who you are. Tell me your ideas. I can do what I want. There are many cars with bright blue lights in the streets either original or imitation like mine. I'll check the original systems as soon as I'm back. Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 23 Nov 1998 00:28:27 +0200 See and be seen, "Reserves" is the solution. This what I've learned from aviation, mountain climbing and scuba diving after years of experience. For front: I attached two H3 fog lamps (55 Watts each but serially connected= 27,5 Watts total system power) to the sides of my lower front fender. A seperate power supply directly from the battery, fuse (15 A "in case of emergency the lights are convertible to 110 Watts with a jumper shift in just a few seconds"), relay and switch (relay is attached on the plastic cover of headlight system with one of its mounting bolts and the switch on the top of this plastic) did the job. Cagers think some kind of creature is approaching. This is always better than to be ignored. For behind: Two cat's eye type round (2,5 cm in diameter) 5 Watts each tail lights connected in parallel to main tail light circuit and a 30 Watts tube type (24 LEDs) brake light at the same length with the rear carrier (in parallel with brake light circuit). I've let someone to ride her and watching the light symphony was gorgeous from back. Unlike the flashers (which they have a kind of feed-back system so when one of the lamps is broken the flashing stops and the side stays lit) the front (this is the case during the daytime) and back (Head&Tail) illumination system control of the bike completely depend on luck. These reserve systems are enough for safety but I must admit that I couldn't keep myself from drilling a 1/2 cm diameter hole at the top of headlight back cover plastic and covering it with fluoroscein tape. When the headlight is on I always have a green dot in front of me. This gives me a feeling of assurance. (Yes, call me old and doddering) I always keep a hard top-case on my rear carrier. (Sponsor brand) Its holder is designed as a reflector. I've used a lot of gray reflecting tape at the sides, back and front. There are many colorful stickers everywhere. My helmets and clothings are either vivid in color or have reflecting parts on. Keeping the reflectors and light covers of the bike clean is very important. These are my ideas. I'm riding only for 19 months yet(I keep riding so much so that all my cars are out of battery) and still learning. I've ordered some books and will start reading. You'll watch me then. Birol Say, M.D. (See Istanbul and Jerusalem) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) repaint KLR Date: 22 Nov 1998 19:19:43 EST In a message dated 11/22/98 9:05:11 AM Mountain Standard Time, rgaines@sprintmail.com writes: << How are you getting the decals off? What type/brand of paint do you use? How do you prepare the plastic before painting? How does the paint hold up to scrapes and abrasions? >> I stripped the tank with Zip Strip (used a couple of applications) and sanded the tank. The applied two coats of primer and then 4 coats of black Krylon and let it set for a couple days before messing with it. I have not painted plastic... yet. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Andreas Sauer Subject: (klr650) Engine Date: 23 Nov 1998 02:33:08 +0100 How can i insert the balancewave chain unter the generator, at wich points i must adjust it ? I drive a '85 klr 600, i think the engine is the same as in newer models cu -- >>> FZR 1000 '91 6Mm DR 650 RSE '94 28Mm <<< >>> KLR 600 '85 2Mm KLR 250 '85 5Mm <<< ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Tiger 900 test ride Date: 22 Nov 1998 19:02:36 -0700 Atilla Altay wrote: > Would you consider sharing your impressions from Tiger 900 test ride > with me? > Thanx in advence > Atilla It turned out to be a fine riding day here in the Colorado Springs area, in spite of a recent snow, so the Tiger owner and I headed into the gravel and dirt roads across the Front Range, replicating most of what we did during the recent KLR outing. Conditions ranged from perfectly dry dirt to nasty sanded corners on the paved roads due to the recent snowstorm, and treacherous icy-hardpacked snow in the shady places in the forest. Score: no citations, no fatalities, one minor crash, no blood, one runoff due to former GP roadracer getting in too hot in a paved tight corner. The Tiger is smooth and fast, but I could not get the hang of riding it effectively off the pavement. The tires were stock but had about 5000 km. I suspect that better handling would be achieved with more aggressive tires. The Tiger suspension ate up the little stutter-bumps more effectively than the KLR650. Both bikes managed the icy hardpack snow without incident, but this was not something to do much experimenting with. Naturally, the Tiger shines on the tight twisty roads, although with good tires and a diminished sense of fear a KLR rider can stay with a good Tiger rider on tight twisties as long as gross acceleration is not the only factor. Switching to the Tiger controls was not natural, with the rear brake pedal positioned in such a way that I was never certain of finding it when I wanted it. The slight forward inclined riding posture of the Tiger was not conducive to dirt road handling. The Tiger owner attempted to follow me (on KLR) on an off-camber hard dirt turn with some gravel on the surface. The KLR stock tire held with marginal purchase and a slight drift, but the heavier Tiger could not negotiate the turn and attempted to abandon the turn and punch into a small outside berm. Two apparent problems with that approach: the smaller 19 inch Tiger front wheel, and not hitting the berm straight on. I am sure that the KLR, with a similarly skilled rider and other conditions being equal, could have punched the berm and averted a crash. Rider unhurt. OK, so this was not an extensive test, but I did get the feel of the Tiger. For my style, it is far too heavy to fling around easily on difficult dirt and gravel roads. The suspension is pretty nice and the load carrying capacity is better than the KLR, but it is just too big a bike for tight mountain dirt roads and marginal traction curves. But perhaps you already knew that...... FWIW - Dr Robert (He's not a real doctor) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 22 Nov 1998 19:11:02 -0700 > > I attached two H3 fog lamps (55 Watts each but serially connected= > 27,5 Watts > total system power) to the sides of my lower front fender. Normally, running H3 halogen bulbs at less than the required voltage will result in lower bulb life and upon applying full voltage after running at reduced power, you may find either bulb failure or diminished performance. But if some sort of greater conspicuity is desired at the expense of bulb performance, then that may be a useful tradeoff. --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 22 Nov 1998 18:10:55 PST Fellow Listers: I've read with great interest the various posts regarding light augmentation, especially as it pertains to night riding. With the understanding that it's all geared towards enhancing one's survivability I've decided to take that pursuit to it's ultimate end-- I don't make a habit of riding at night. I'm very aware that a lot of you night riders may have to do it for any one of a number of reasons, so please refrain from jumping down my throat in that regard. And I'm all for doing whatever you can to increase your odds for the times when you HAVE to go out at night, but what's to be said for the idea of trying to minimize the time one is out at night? I do go out at night (and at that, NEVER on a Friday or Saturday night), but ONLY for the purpose of staying familiar and proficient with the differences and challenges unique to night riding. This averages out to about one ride every two weeks. I do this because I believe there will be a time when I DON'T have a choice (I apply the same logic to riding in the rain). The irony of this is that I'm fundamentally a night owl. I love the cooler temperatures and more tranquil atmosphere that night brings, but not enough to assume the extra level of risk involved. As much as I love and appreciate the fundamental (almost primal) pleasures of riding I still feel it necessary to attack a number of things on a methodical and calculating level. Don't take this to mean that I'm some egghead who's afraid of his own shadow. Not so! My craving for adventure is matched only by my desire to survive it. I'm assuming most of us feel the same way. I'm not trying to talk anyone into changing their personal policy (I have way too much respect for our collective individuality to do that). I guess I'm just interested in finding out where the point of balance is for some of you folks, and how it is you arrived there (let the forum weigh in!). This coming April will make it a whole whopping three years that I've been riding. And for all that time I've kept in my head a saying that aviators have about people when it comes to failing checkrides. They say they fall into two groups: "Those who have, and those who will." I'm hoping to beat the odds (in both capacities). Just my two cents worth-- thanks for the soapbox. Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" P.S. By the way, my "night mode" consists of a red blinking safety light (purchased at a bicycle shop) clipped onto the back of my reflective vest. Works for me.... ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 22 Nov 1998 20:06:40 -0700 Juan Villarreal wrote: > P.S. By the way, my "night mode" consists of a red blinking safety > light (purchased at a bicycle shop) clipped onto the back of my > reflective vest. Works for me.... The human factors people who have looked into the fast-flashing cycle lights say that under most conditions where other illumination sources are around, that these are just about useless (and may be counterproductive since they offer a false sense of security). The problem comes from two shortcomings. One is the simple lack of luminance, which involves luminance contrast with competing sources of illumination. The other is that the flash rate (apprx 6 Hz) is too quick for night vision perception to take advantage of. You will notice that the 2-4 Hz rate of most emergency vehicles. These involve spaced bursts of light, with high luminance. This gets your attention. The bicycle flashers do not, or much less so, particularly at the closing speeds associated with highways. This all has to do with what is called sensory memory, which could be the topic of a much longer post for or by those interested in perceptual psychology. If you want to improve nighttime conspicuity, consider increasing the luminance of your tail light, and pulsing when you apply your brakes, at 2-4 Hz rate. There are halogen tail lamp bulbs available. Dr Robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 22 Nov 1998 22:32:14 EST I do a fair amount of night riding, especially in winter when I commute to and from work on dark mornings and evenings. As far as being able to see goes, I have come to the conclusion that there is no substitute for aux lights. Mainly because you can get a spread of light by the spacing of aux lights that you cannot get by running a flame thrower high watt bulb. The only exception to this is my XV920 that has an 8" headlight. With an 80-100w bulb, it throws more light than any other machine can hope to, but that's another story. On my KLR, I run two 35watt Saeng night cutters and a 55/100 watt main bulb. The night cutters are on a separate switch than the headlight and can be turned on and off at will. They are aimed to provide "fill in" light beyond the range of the lowbeam and just below the high beam. I have them spread to give a wide swath of light. The right light is aimed a bit towards the side of the rode to catch the eyes of critters on the side of the road. For visibility, I always wear a reflector vest with the yellow stripes. I stands out against my black jacket in the day and really lights up at night. One thing a lot of riders forget to do is clean their faceshields often. I clean mine two or three times a week, even if it still looks clean. Residue of any kind will promote and exaggerate fogging. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Kirk.Cossairt@icn.siemens.com Subject: (klr650) new owner Date: 22 Nov 1998 23:46:29 -0500 As a new owner of a 91' KLR, I have a few questions about my new ride. 1 - Low rpm thumping/banging that goes away after 2k rpm. (like a rod knock) ( A knowledgeable friend heard the bike and says "most Kawasaki singles make such a racket" any comments?? 2 - Rattle from clutch basket that also goes away as clutch engages?? Bike shows 8k mi. from everything I could check I believe this is true mileage (footpeg rubber/orig grips ect...) and appears to be virgin in that all bolts for side covers/cases are clean (no wrench marks). It does ride nice up to 70 mph, then the vibes catch up. If I heard these noises on any of my other bikes I would be concerned. Should I be now?????? 87 Concours (the pack mule) 81 Yamaha 250 (start framed flattracker) 86 TLR 200 (wife's wood bike) 90 GT Hawk (wife's street bike) 82 XR500 (woods bike) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: alyef@juno.com (Alex Yefimov) Subject: (klr650) NKLR - Riding Suits Date: 22 Nov 1998 23:57:19 EST I was at the BMW dealer a few days ago and notice the one piece riding suits that they have ( Autobahn ). How does a one piece suit compare with a jacket and pants for riding? I am going to be commuting to work on a KLR. If I know that it is going to rain, I will probably take a car. Comments would be appreciated. Alex San Jose, CA ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 22 Nov 1998 22:13:56 -0700 flashing cycle lights >say that under most conditions where other illumination sources are around, >that these are just about useless (and may be counterproductive since they >offer a false sense of security). > >The problem comes from two shortcomings. One is the simple lack of >luminance, which involves luminance contrast with competing sources of >illumination. The other is that the flash rate (apprx 6 Hz) is too quick for >night vision perception to take advantage of. > >You will notice that the 2-4 Hz rate of most emergency vehicles. These >involve spaced bursts of light, with high luminance. This gets your >attention. The bicycle flashers do not, or much less so, particularly at the >closing speeds associated with highways. This all has to do with what is >called sensory memory, which could be the topic of a much longer post for or >by those interested in perceptual psychology. > >If you want to improve nighttime conspicuity, consider increasing the >luminance of your tail light, and pulsing when you apply your brakes, at 2-4 >Hz rate. There are halogen tail lamp bulbs available. > >Dr Robert > Dr Robert, You`re right in the fact that frequency is very critical for recognition, especially at night with other light emitting clutter. Up until 2 months ago, I had a small aircraft strobe with a red lens (aircraft strobes use xenon arc flash-tubes) mounted under my luggage rack. Apparently it worked too well, as I was stopped by the Hiway Patrol and was told to render it inoperative, there on the spot, and if I was caught operating it again, I would receive a citation as a hazard to traffic. I plan to appeal this, but haven`t had the time. I have some motor vehicle law to research. The thing is it works so well, extremely bright (you can see aircraft strobes for miles) and it draws only 2.7 amps. I had a filter on it to remove some of the glare to rearward traffic and tested it on people behind me that said it wasn`t TOO obnoxious. I still have my headlight oscillator installed. I bought it at this summers BMW rally and it works great for daylight oncoming recognition. Skip (who loves to be seen by others) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Riding Suits Date: 22 Nov 1998 22:33:14 PST >How does a one piece suit compare with a jacket and pants for riding? Having lived in the Seattle, WA area with a motorcycle as my only (non-public) transportation, I know a few things about riding in 40F temps and in rain. In such conditions, there is no comparison; the one piece is much better for the actual ride. I've had my waist get soaked too many times in a good rain. One-piece suits do have their disadvantages, though. Especially an hour after drinking that 44oz fountain drink... ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 23 Nov 1998 12:03:59 +0200 The lamps, when connected serially only has a higher resistance and only the total energy expenditure is reduced. The pressure of current (Voltage) is never affected by resistance so don't worry. Birol Say, M.D. -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: bruixot@rmi.net Kime: B=DDROL SAY Bilgi: rg ; Paul Christenson ; klr650@lists.xmission.com Tarih: 23 Kas=FDm 1998 Pazartesi 03:08 Konu: Re: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! >> >> I attached two H3 fog lamps (55 Watts each but serially connected=3D >> 27,5 Watts >> total system power) to the sides of my lower front fender. > >Normally, running H3 halogen bulbs at less than the required voltage will >result in lower bulb life and upon applying full voltage after running at >reduced power, you may find either bulb failure or diminished performance. >But if some sort of greater conspicuity is desired at the expense of bulb >performance, then that may be a useful tradeoff. > >--rr > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Looking for Steve Rottenberg Date: 23 Nov 1998 08:27:43 -0500 I would like to get in touch with Steve Rottenberg - are you there? Anyone know Steve's email address? Please reply to Arlen Aas (address in "cc" header) Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR - Riding Suits Date: 23 Nov 1998 07:27:58 -0700 -----Original Message----- >I was at the BMW dealer a few days ago and notice the one piece riding >suits that they have ( Autobahn ). How does a one piece suit compare with >a jacket and pants for riding? I am going to be commuting to work on a >KLR. If I know that it is going to rain, I will probably take a car. >Comments would be appreciated. > >Alex >San Jose, CA I think it depends on which one-piece and which two-piece. I have both in Roadcrafter and like the 2 piece for versatility in all kinds of weather and when off the bike. The 2 piece Darien is more weatherproof than the 1 piece Roadcrafter due to better zipper protection... Kurt ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner Date: 23 Nov 1998 07:33:27 -0700 >As a new owner of a 91' KLR, I have a few questions about my new ride. > >1 - Low rpm thumping/banging that goes away after 2k rpm. (like a rod >knock) ( A knowledgeable friend heard the bike and says "most Kawasaki >singles make such a racket" any comments?? > >2 - Rattle from clutch basket that also goes away as clutch engages?? KLR's can't run at low rpms because of the automatic compression release, but this usually kicks in at less than 1200 rpm's and is fine at 2K (so, like coming down a hill off-road it will cut out at anything less than 1K). Many of us have experimented with jetting and octane to rid ourselves of "knock". I run a jet kit and premium fuel and it makes a big difference. I'm no expert on clutches but I've had that rattle on several bikes and have always thought it was normal wear and tear. To be comfortable you might want to pull the clutch and give it an inspection. Eldon Carl advises pulling clutches on all pre-'96's and upgrading them to a newer design. He claims that the old design can lead to failure and catastrophic engine problems. I think most listers are not convinced... Kurt A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Rust Date: 23 Nov 1998 09:46:10 Rusty inside of gas tank 1975 Yamaha RD200. Could be any gas tank. What is the best way to get rust out? I can sandblast (actually glass-bead blast) at work or use the chemical treatments. The chemicals scare me as they might remove the paint from the tank if splashed on the outside. Or, I can just install two in-line filters (twin carbs) and not worry about the rust. Any suggestions? Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Noise Date: 23 Nov 1998 09:50:08 I always wear earplugs when riding. When working on the bike, I don't and the engine always seems to make a lot of noise. I just consider them normal for this type of engine. I run high test gas, make sure the oil is full, put in the plugs and enjoy the ride. Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mjv2@psu.edu (Mark) Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 23 Nov 1998 09:54:44 -0500 > >One thing a lot of riders forget to do is clean their faceshields often. I >clean mine two or three times a week, even if it still looks clean. Residue >of any kind will promote and exaggerate fogging. > >Gino I use Canon lens anti-fog on the inside of my face shield once a week. On the outside, I wax the shield every morning with thin car wax. It's great for repelling rain/dirt/dust and when a big bug hits, I just turn my head to the side and the bug rolls off with little or no residue. Mark, B2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Rust Date: 23 Nov 1998 08:26:33 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Rusty inside of gas tank 1975 Yamaha RD200. Could be any gas tank. >What is the best way to get rust out? >I can sandblast (actually glass-bead blast) at work or use the chemical >treatments. The chemicals scare me as they might remove the paint from the >tank if splashed on the outside. >Or, I can just install two in-line filters (twin carbs) and not worry about >the rust. Any suggestions? >Bob Kaub >State University of New York >PO Box 6000 >Binghamton, NY 13902 >607-777-2715 > > You will need some sort of physical means to remove the rust and then the chemical treatment will keep the rust from contaminating your gas. You could use some small nuts and bolts sloshed around in your tank with some water to remove the loose rust. Use the three part chemical treatment called Kreem to etch the metal and apply a liner to seperate the rust from your gas. The rust will come back without this treatment. Kreem also makes a Tank Mask that will protect your paint. A filter will not stop the rust as it is very fine and will go through most any filter. The filter will stop anything that would plug up your jets. My shop will be closed until Friday the 27th. Happy Thanksgiving! Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Katana list? Date: 23 Nov 1998 12:09:57 -0500 My neighbor just bought a 750 Katana and was curious if a list similar to this exists for the Kat. Other conventional search means have provided little useful info. Thanks for any info. Jake in Jacksonville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Katana list? Date: 23 Nov 1998 10:52:43 -0700 -----Original Message----- >My neighbor just bought a 750 Katana and was curious if a list similar >to this exists for the Kat. Other conventional search means have >provided little useful info. Thanks for any info. > >Jake in Jacksonville > Here you go... KATANA: DESCRIPTION: Suzuki Katana Owners Mailing List DIGEST AVAILABLE: Yes ADMIN ADDRESS: katana-request@katana.com TO SUBSCRIBE: Body: "subscribe katana" or "subscribe katana-digest" LIST OWNER: katana-owner@katana.com WWW URL: http://www.katana.com/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: James F McFaden Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner Date: 23 Nov 1998 12:31:35 -0600 At 11:46 PM 11/22/98 -0500, Kirk.Cossairt@icn.siemens.com wrote: > > >As a new owner of a 91' KLR, I have a few questions about my new ride. > >1 - Low rpm thumping/banging that goes away after 2k rpm. (like a rod >knock) ( A knowledgeable friend heard the bike and says "most Kawasaki >singles make such a racket" any comments?? My new KLR650 made this annoying noise right out of the box (up to 3000rpm's). I listened to another '99 which made the same noise. The owner didn't notice it as I do. Kawasaki dealers and reps say it is normal for this engine. I say it's poor design. >2 - Rattle from clutch basket that also goes away as clutch engages?? Probably normal gear/clutch plate noise. Jim McFaden in Dallas ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) NKLR: Night vis and safety Date: 23 Nov 1998 11:30:33 -0800 (On night riding): As much as I love and appreciate the fundamental (almost primal) pleasures of riding I still feel it necessary to attack a number of things on a methodical and calculating level. Don't take this to mean that I'm some egghead who's afraid of his own shadow. Not so! My craving for adventure is matched only by my desire to survive it. I'm assuming most of us feel the same way. I'm not trying to talk anyone into changing their personal policy (I have way too much respect for our collective individuality to do that). I guess I'm just interested in finding out where the point of balance is for some of you folks, and how it is you arrived there (let the forum weigh in!). ******************************************* Juan- I like to nightride for many reasons. Some of which you mentioned. Most of my night riding is done while on long road trips. If riding in the desert in Summer, nocturnal motoring can be an exhilerating experience. Riding through large urban centers on Interstates is usually preferable due to less congestion. Other times a local Friday night cruise along the Pacific Coast Highway can really ease the tension of a busy week. Of my 20+ years of motorcycling, I've never taken special precautions at night, until recently. My Night Fighter reflectorized vest used to collect dust, but I now wear it after sunset. It can make a world of difference. A quick story: Last month while returning from the Grand Nat'l Dirt Track races in Del Mar, I was motoring along I-405 through Los Angeles at night in *heavy* multi-lane traffic. Decided to pull the KLR off the road and don my Night Fighter. As the traffic was whizzing by, I hear a Harley thundering along. As I look up to see it, I saw nothing! Apparently the tail lamp was burnt and that was the only light this bike has in the rear. I jumped on the bike and go tearing off to catch the unsuspecting biker. Pulled him over to clue him and his passenger of their problem. They seemed somewhat grateful ;>) Just another good reason to have auxillary lighting and/or reflectorized clothing. The bicycle strobe is a good idea also Juan. See and be seen, Darrel Oxnard, Ca ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Blue bulbs/lenses Date: 23 Nov 1998 10:31:58 -0800 Looking at the problem from the other end. Pun intended. Have you seen those "blue dot" tail lamp inserts? They have not been fashion statements since 1955 but they really increase perception/ and visibility from the rear. They are "strange" and trigger the viewing drivers attention. The same is true for those neon license plate frames and the flashing LED gizmo's to a lesser extent. Can anyone comment on the legal implications for blue dots, neon(color) license plate brackets and flashing LEDs? *************************************** Robert, the blue dots have been popular amongst the Harley crowd here in the land of milk and honey for some time now. So much of the Harley attraction is nolstalgia. That having been said though, they are not legal in California. They law only allows for red tail lights, but that hasn't curbed the use of the blue dots since enforcement is lacking. Your right about a different (purple) look which would tends to increase your conspicuity on the road from behind. In a local motorcycle rag there's a column called "Ask The Sergeant" where a motorcycle cop answers readers' questions from a legal perspective (a recent one was on the legalities of what to do when your bike won't trip a traffic signal. If anyone on the list would like to know his answer, I'll be glad to post it). I'll forward your question and post the response if any. Darrel, A12 "Avenger", SoCal ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Brian Subject: [Fwd: (klr650) NKLR Blue bulbs/lenses] Date: 23 Nov 1998 14:07:26 -0800 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------EE2F08C600498C0A472C1F41 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit --------------EE2F08C600498C0A472C1F41 Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline X-Mozilla-Status2: 00000000 Message-ID: <3659DC58.DA6F4D99@uniserve.com> X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 References: <199811231927.NAA21314@smtp1.mailsrvcs.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Recently some listers had this discussion with respect to the legality of leaving a traffic signal that doesn't acknowledge a bikes weight or metal mass, however most concluded that we could talk our way out of a ticket. I would definitely like to know what Police consider proper legal etiquette. regards, Brian A12 CE zzz,z,zzz Darrel & Deanna wrote: > In a local motorcycle rag there's a column called "Ask The Sergeant" where > a motorcycle cop answers readers' questions from a legal perspective (a > recent one was on the legalities of what to do when your bike won't trip a > traffic signal. If anyone on the list would like to know his answer, I'll > be glad to post it). I'll forward your question and post the response if > any. Darrel, A12 "Avenger", SoCal --------------EE2F08C600498C0A472C1F41-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) She got me a Supertrapp IDS Pipe! Date: 23 Nov 1998 18:58:56 EST Guess what everybody........my wife (WhattaWoman!) got me an early Christmas present! A Supertrapp IDS pipe for the KLR! I looked out the back door, and it was sitting on the patio in a box from Dennis Kirk (Sorry Fred). I told her that's what I wanted for Christmas, and it came way to early to wait all the way till Christmas, so I opened it up and mounted it (wife wasn't to happy bout that). It weighs about 5-6 lbs less than the stock pipe according to my scale. I've put about 150 miles on it in the last coupla days, and have to say that I love the sound as compared to stock. No more big lawnmower jokes from my riding buddies. Have had several comments from people on how good the bike sounds now. A bit louder than stock (more than a bit on full throttle) with 7 discs in (less discs is quieter), but a totally different tone. Almost makes the KLR sound meeeaaannnn now! The bike feels like it runs better, or quicker with the pipe on, but that may just be because I can hear the exhaust a lot better now. One other thing I like about the IDS.....We all know the KLR motor is a bit noisy at low RPM's; with a little louder pipe, the engine noises are not noticed.near as much. Glad Christmas came early for me, cuz the weather's been upper 50's around here lately. It'll probably be freezing and snowy by Christmas. . Now I'll just have to work on getting that filter/jet kit somehow. Hmmmmmm....... Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (F. J. Smith) Subject: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 23 Nov 1998 17:20:08 -0800 (PST) This is an interesting topic, and whether a rider is cited depends alot on the attitude of the officer. However, sitting at a traffic light for a longer-than- average amount of time waiting for a green light or sitting through 3-4 signal cycles waiting for a left turn arrow just because your bike's mass or weight won't trip the signal is UNREASONABLE. You may not be able to talk a "hot pencil" cop out of the ticket, but a judge should listen to reason. Its the spirit of the law not the letter of the law. Jim Palmdale ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: AGSholar@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 23 Nov 1998 20:26:46 EST << I still have my headlight oscillator installed. I bought it at this summers BMW rally and it works great for daylight oncoming recognition. >> I also purchased a "Starburst" modulator from Kriss Industries. It was fairly easy to install and though I have no proof that it has saved me from a wreck, I have seen them on other bikes and they really make those bikes stand out. If anyone is interested they have a good web page including prices at www.kriss.com. Greg, A2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 23 Nov 1998 18:47:57 -0700 >sitting through 3-4 >signal cycles waiting for a left turn arrow just >because your bike's mass or weight won't trip Just FYI: Those sensors are not activated by vehicle weight. There is a loop (actually rectangle) of wire buried in the pavement. Sometimes you can see it sealed under epoxy. There is an "electric field" associated with this wire loop, and metal items "disturb" the field, signaling the presence of a vehicle above. I read in a bicycle magazine that to "disturb the field" as much as possible (and thus announce your presence) is to park on of one of the sides, not centered between the two. I'm lawless on my bicycle so as of yet I never tried it on my bicycle. So far I've had pretty good luck using this method on a motorcycle. A (frustrating) option is to put the sidestand down, walk over and push the crosswalk button. If all else fails, pull a BIG wheelie. Big wheelies are always satisfying and you'll forget all about that stupid light. Tom +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: DOUGUR@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Fwd: still trying-carb problems Date: 23 Nov 1998 21:38:23 EST This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_911875103_boundary Content-ID: <0_911875103@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Anyone have any suggestions on the flooding problem? --part0_911875103_boundary Content-ID: <0_911875103@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-path: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Kurt, I haven't given up on getting the bike to run without taking it to a shop. I think I'm real close, but I don't know what else to try. The bike will initially start with choke engaged, idle for a few minutes fine, then I have to start giving a little throttle to keep running. It starts running ruff and has black smoke and eventually dies. I can crank it a few more times with choke on or off, but will run only when I'm giving throttle and eventually gets where it won't crank anymore until it sets for a long time. I am feeding it gas from a jug. I can lower the jug and quit supplying gas when its running ruff and after a few seconds it will smooth out and run fine until the carb empties. I assume that it is flooding. What could it be related to? Something to do with the float maybe? I hate to have come this far with it and still have to take it to a shop. Any suggestions that I can try? Doug Mullens --part0_911875103_boundary-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 23 Nov 1998 19:55:30 -0700 > Those sensors are not activated by vehicle weight. There is a loop > (actually rectangle) of wire buried in the pavement. Sometimes you can see > it sealed under epoxy. There is an "electric field" associated with this > wire loop, and metal items "disturb" the field, signaling the presence of a > vehicle above. Not all lights are activated by this inductive loop device. There are now some cheap RF devices used in some places. They don't work very well, but they often sense bikes. As far as Colorado, the law requires that a motorist stop at an "inoperative" traffic signal before proceeding when it is clear and safe to do so. Obviously, what is inoperative for you might be operative for somebody else. That will mean taking a minimum of two days off of work. Owing to my nasty temperment, I once did those two days in California, to object to a parking ticket from parking a bike in an unsigned car parking spot. It really annoys the judge when you insist that the ticketing officer be subpoenaed (yes, that is the correct spelling), and in fact they usually won't do it. But I won my case, pissed off the police, and the city was forced to install signs that identified the separate car and bike parking areas and proscribed improper use by either type. --Dr Robert 1.You can't beat city hall, but you can piss on their doorstep (attributed to John Stonehouse). 2. There are three ways to achieve justice in this state: the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box. (Attributed to a Colorado legislator). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 23 Nov 1998 19:13:50 PST Darrel wrote: >Juan- >I like to nightride for many reasons. Some of which you mentioned. Most >of my night riding is done while on long road trips. If riding in the >desert in Summer, nocturnal motoring can be an exhilerating experience. >Riding through large urban centers on Interstates is usually preferable due >to less congestion. Other times a local Friday night cruise along the >Pacific Coast Highway can really ease the tension of a busy week. > >Of my 20+ years of motorcycling, I've never taken special precautions at >night, until recently. My Night Fighter reflectorized vest used to collect >dust, but I now wear it after sunset. It can make a world of difference. >A quick story: > >Last month while returning from the Grand Nat'l Dirt Track races in Del >Mar, I was motoring along I-405 through Los Angeles at night in *heavy* >multi-lane traffic. Decided to pull the KLR off the road and don my Night >Fighter. As the traffic was whizzing by, I hear a Harley thundering along. > As I look up to see it, I saw nothing! Apparently the tail lamp was burnt >and that was the only light this bike has in the rear. I jumped on the >bike and go tearing off to catch the unsuspecting biker. Pulled him over >to clue him and his passenger of their problem. They seemed somewhat >grateful ;>) > >Just another good reason to have auxillary lighting and/or reflectorized >clothing. The bicycle strobe is a good idea also Juan. > >See and be seen, >Darrel >Oxnard, Ca Thanks for the comments, Darrel. I was hoping to provoke a few more inputs from some of the other listers, but I suppose the philosophical nature of my inquiry didn't create much interest. Maybe I should have revived the topic of oil type/quantity, huh? That seems to always get everybody's blood going... Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) She got me a Supertrapp IDS Pipe! Date: 23 Nov 1998 21:42:05 -0600 (CST) On Mon, 23 Nov 1998 VFR754@aol.com wrote: > Guess what everybody........my wife (WhattaWoman!) got me an early Christmas > present! A Supertrapp IDS pipe for the KLR! I looked out the back door, and it > was sitting on the patio in a box from Dennis Kirk (Sorry Fred). I told her > that's what I wanted for Christmas, and it came way to early to wait all the > way till Christmas, so I opened it up and mounted it (wife wasn't to happy > bout that). It weighs about 5-6 lbs less than the stock pipe according to my > scale. Hey Bill, That's quite a present you got there. I'd like to know how that thing holds up after more miles. Specifically, is it touching on any plastic, and does it leak exhaust at the joint between the can and the intermediate pipe? I'm considering switching my race core external disc supertrapp for a quiter IDS non-race core (is yours a quite core?). When I bought mine, the salesman didn't ask what kind of exhaust I wanted and I didn't know that much about bikes in general, so he ordered what he thought I wanted (oh well). Anyway, take care and enjoy the weather. Carlos P.S. The weather has been absolutely perfect in Milwaukee the last few days too, and it looks like this run is going to continue for a little while. Kenny, it looks like you picked a bad weekend to prep your bike for winter. Last year I think I prepped my bike for storage something like five times, and it actually never sat for more than a week or so. Maybe we'll have another mild winter. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Michael Kovaliv Subject: (klr650) I've finally made up my mind! Date: 23 Nov 1998 23:00:58 -0500 Thanks everyone for your input! After a few months of research I have finally decided to buy the KLR 650 over the BMW F650 and the Suzuki DR650SEX. I have test ridden all three bikes and done a ton of reading about them. The KLR is the best bike for my purposes, this is why in my opinion: The F650 is a beautiful bike, both to ride and in it's quality. However, three things made me decide against it. First, I would not want to ride the F650 off road for fear of scratching it or damaging any components. Second, I would not want to try any mechanical repairs myself. Both the dealer and the other BMW riders that I know almost make me feel "inferior" to the machine, kind of like "who are you to try to fix a BMW?". I want to learn everything I can about my bike so if I get stuck on my way to the Grand Canyon for example, I might be able to fix the problem. I like the "simplicity" of the KLR. Third, I just don't think it's worth almost double the price here in Canada. I might be wrong, but I believe the KLR will last me just as long if I maintain it properly. The DR650SEX is just to dirt oriented for my liking. The tiny gas tank, no wind shield, no tachometer and overall appearance is just not right for me. It doesn't make sense to me to spend $1000.00 plus to try and make it what the KLR is out the box. I know you have all heard it before, but I agree with the December issue of Rider Magazine. "The KLR is a Stealth of a bike!" It has everything I want in a bike, the ride, the range, the accessories and the passion of it's riders. I do have a question though. In my city, Windsor Ontario, there are two dealers (not including the H-D boutique). The first is "Sports Afield II" and seems like a very well kept and modern shop, they are the Kawasaki, Honda and Yamaha dealer, they also sell ATVs and snowmobiles. The second is "Power Cycle", and is a more old-fashioned kind of place. They sell Suzuki but tell me they can get the KLR for me. This is my concern: Sports afield II never seems to have many people either buying bikes or fixing bikes. They only ever have two or three used bikes and the new bikes seem to be around for a long time. Power Cycle on the other hand is always very busy, they have six to eight mechanics during the summer and always one guy all winter. Bikes are always lined up twenty deep out back. Power Cycle focuses largely on the used bikes and parts, at least thirty to forty used bikes at any time. I bought my second two bikes from Power Cycle and have a "relationship" with them. The main mechanic however told me I could get parts for the DR the next day where it would take at least a week for the KLR because they are not an Kawasaki dealer. Where should I buy the bike??? How would the Suzuki dealer get a KLR and would I have a real warranty, I also may want to buy the extended warranty. Sports Afield II also has a 99 KLR 650 and 250 "on order" and should have them some time in December. Any comments would be great. Thanks, Michael Kovaliv P.S. Gino, did you receive my check for the DSN and backorders yet? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: still trying-carb problems Date: 23 Nov 1998 23:23:43 EST On 11/23/98, DOUGUR@aol.com wrote: snip >I am feeding it gas from a jug. I can lower the jug and quit supplying gas >when its running ruff and after a few seconds it will smooth out and run fine >until the carb empties. I assume that it is flooding. What could it be related >to? Something to do with the float maybe? If it always smooths out after you shut the gas off, the float level is the primary suspect. There's only a 2mm fudge factor. Too high and your engine will choke on too much gas. Too low and your engine will starve. To check the float height you can buy the gauge from Kawasaki, or just get a clear hose and attach it to your drain valve at the bottom of the carb. Tape it up to the side of your carb. Keep your auxiliary gas can above the carb so it will continue to dump fuel. Open the drain valve with a hex key. Get out a steel rule and measure right where the carb body meets the float bowl to the level in the hose. Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about 5/64" variance). If not, after disconnecting the gas can and draining the fuel out, you'll need to rotate the carb and take the four screws off the bottom of the float bowl and remove it. Then push the pin out of the float boss and gently remove the float and float valve . The float valve will be hanging loosely on the float by a very thin wire that slips over a metal tang on the float. Bending this tang will raise or lower your float level. Just a small bend makes a big difference in the level, so it's best to make minute movements here. Before you bend anything it's prudent to visually inspect the rubber tip on the float valve and spray some carb cleaner and compressed air in the valve seat, just to make sure nothing is blocking it open. Another thought is be sure that the float isn't leaking and filling with gas. Then check the level again and bend the tang if needed. Redondo Ron (who's as bent as they come) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety (NKLR) Date: 23 Nov 1998 22:56:14 -0600 (CST) On Mon, 23 Nov 1998, Juan Villarreal wrote: > >Just another good reason to have auxillary lighting and/or > reflectorized > >clothing. The bicycle strobe is a good idea also Juan. > > > >See and be seen, > >Darrel > >Oxnard, Ca > > Thanks for the comments, Darrel. I was hoping to provoke a few more > inputs from some of the other listers, but I suppose the philosophical > nature of my inquiry didn't create much interest. > > Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR > "El Lobo Solo" Alright Juan, you provoked me! :) Although my comment doesn't really deal with night visibility, it deals with something just as important, day visibility. When I started riding a couple of years ago I was advised by others to ride with my brights on, day or night. So I did, and I did get many many cars cutting me off, pulling in front of me, etc. I was fully expecting this from the many horror stories I've heard, so I wasn't very surprised. But then one day I read an article with a guy that was absolutely dead set against using your brights as a means of making yourself more visible to others. He stated his reasons, which were reasonable, so I decided to ride for a while without my brights on, and lo and behold I noticed I wasn't being cut off as much. Now I'm not saying that brights cause you to get cut off, but I can tell you that I don't ride with my brights on anymore, unless I need them for road visibilty. Basically, the authors reasons had to do with how brights tend to mask the vehicle behind the light and mask the vehicle's true speed as well, causing people to think that they have more time to turn in front of you than they actually do. Curiously, my friend in his huge Ford F-350, which sits high on the road, has riduculously bright lights, and is red (it doesn't get much more visible than this folks) is cut off by cars with clocklike regularity. People get in the way of trains pretty often too, thinking that they have plenty of time. Although I've heard that large vehicles, such as trains (and your odd F-350) tend to mask their speed just due to their being large (which is translated in the brain to being slow), the fact that they actually have bright lights on them makes you think. Again, I'm not saying that this is proof that running with your brights can kill you, but rather that it could be a factor that may reduce your safety on the road if you rely too heavily on visibility aids. I think it boils down to making yourself visible, but not obnoxiously so, and to remember that only your own skill and attention can ultimately prevent you from getting railed by some cell phone talkin' yuppie in an Audi (don't ask). I'm sure if there are any experimental psychologists specializing in perception out there in KLRland, they could probably shed some light on this. But if there's not, then I'll just have to rely on anecdotal evidence for now. Carlos Milwaukee, WI ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) RE:She got me a Supertrapp IDS Pipe! Date: 23 Nov 1998 23:57:11 EST << In a message dated 11/23/98 7:43:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, aviator@csd.uwm.edu writes: << I'd like to know how that thing holds up after more miles. Specifically, is it touching on any plastic, and does it leak exhaust at the joint between the can and the intermediate pipe? >> Carlos, I haven't noticed any leakng. I used the high temp lube that came in the box to fit everything together, it smoked for about the first 15 or so minutes as it burnt off, but no leaking as of yet. Everything fit pretty tightly, it didn't just slide together easily.I'll keep an eye on it though. Yeah it is the Quiet Core version. I was glad that you let me hear your pipe at the meeting, Because now I can give you a comparison between it and the IDS. The IDS Quiet is quieter even with 7 discs in than I remember your bike being. It really is only a little louder than stock (but waaay throatier) with the 7 discs, so I imagine with fewer discs it could be as quiet/quieter than stock. I like it louder than stock though. The pipe(s) clears all of the plastic very well, and comes with a big spacer to move it away from the bike in the back. No problems with the side panel clearance either. I just had to mess with it a bit to get it set up just right, so it wasn't touching anything. .It has a nice end cap with a tip that points down, and points everything away from the fender. Works well. Hope this weather keeps up..... Talk to ya later, Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 24 Nov 1998 00:41:04 EST In a message dated 11/23/98 5:44:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, TomMyers@cycoactive.com writes: << Big wheelies are always satisfying and you'll forget all about that stupid light. >> Couldn't agree with you more!!! LOL. Bill Swindle. A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: [Fwd: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety (NKLR)] Date: 24 Nov 1998 00:45:47 -0500 Message-ID: <365A47F5.1D8E@bellsouth.net> Reply-To: klr650@bellsouth.net X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT (Win95; I) MIME-Version: 1.0 References: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Carlos Yonan Gonzalez wrote: People get in the way of trains pretty often too, > thinking that they have plenty of time. Although I've heard that large > vehicles, such as trains (and your odd F-350) tend to mask their speed > just due to their being large (which is translated in the brain to being > slow), the fact that they actually have bright lights on them makes you > think. In support of your statement, I have noticed an increased propensity for people to fudge city buses, dump trucks and other lumbering behemoths for what I would guess is the same reason. I notice this mostly in right hand turns on red lights (legal in Fla, elsewhere I cannot vouch) in heavy traffic. Jake ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 24 Nov 1998 00:51:18 EST In a message dated 11/23/98 5:44:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, TomMyers@cycoactive.com writes: << If all else fails, pull a BIG wheelie. Big wheelies are always satisfying and you'll forget all about that stupid light. Tom >> Couldn't agree with you more! LOL. Bill Swindle A12 montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) Traffic Signals and Motorcycles Date: 24 Nov 1998 03:21:45 -0000 1. If you're going to blow the light, and can't be sure of any cops around, go real slow, and make it clearly obvious you are really, really being careful. Take it easy on the gas, mellow, mellow, mellow. Put yourself in the cop's shoes. If he sees a bike at a red light, the rider is acting pissed off, he guns it and blows through a light, he's gonna bag you. Sit up straight, and try to look as if you belong, as if you aren't doing anything wrong. Bluffing by looking as if you belong, works wonders in all areas of life. Any of you guys ever walk into a Harley bar, after riding in on a crotch rocket, wearing a long sleeve pink shirt, then get a pool table? Done it at the Red Dog, and that other bar, the Gatekeeper (?), in Middletown, CT. Hey, I was just shootin' pool, so no lectures. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Night vis and safety Date: 24 Nov 1998 06:37:27 -0800 Skip, I'm interested in installing headlight oscillators on my bikes too. Do you know a source for these, and what is their price? Thanks. Rob C. '98 KLR650 3800mi '98 Voyager XII 3300mi '97 KLR250 1400mi -----Original Message----- > >flashing cycle lights >>say that under most conditions where other illumination sources are around, >>that these are just about useless (and may be counterproductive since they >>offer a false sense of security). >> >>The problem comes from two shortcomings. One is the simple lack of >>luminance, which involves luminance contrast with competing sources of >>illumination. The other is that the flash rate (apprx 6 Hz) is too quick >for >>night vision perception to take advantage of. >> >>You will notice that the 2-4 Hz rate of most emergency vehicles. These >>involve spaced bursts of light, with high luminance. This gets your >>attention. The bicycle flashers do not, or much less so, particularly at >the >>closing speeds associated with highways. This all has to do with what is >>called sensory memory, which could be the topic of a much longer post for >or >>by those interested in perceptual psychology. >> >>If you want to improve nighttime conspicuity, consider increasing the >>luminance of your tail light, and pulsing when you apply your brakes, at >2-4 >>Hz rate. There are halogen tail lamp bulbs available. >> >>Dr Robert >> > > > >Dr Robert, > You`re right in the fact that frequency is very critical for recognition, >especially at night with other light emitting clutter. > Up until 2 months ago, I had a small aircraft strobe with a red lens >(aircraft strobes use xenon arc flash-tubes) mounted under my luggage rack. >Apparently it worked too well, as I was stopped by the Hiway Patrol and was >told to render it inoperative, there on the spot, and if I was caught >operating it again, I would receive a citation as a hazard to traffic. I >plan to appeal this, but haven`t had the time. I have some motor vehicle law >to research. The thing is it works so well, extremely bright (you can see >aircraft strobes for miles) and it draws only 2.7 amps. I had a filter on it >to remove some of the glare to rearward traffic and tested it on people >behind me that said it wasn`t TOO obnoxious. > I still have my headlight oscillator installed. I bought it at this >summers BMW rally and it works great for daylight oncoming recognition. > > > Skip (who loves to be seen by others) > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE klr650@lists.xmission.com: Admin request of type /\bunsubscribe\b/i at line 7 Date: 24 Nov 1998 07:51:39 -0700 -----Original Message----- /\bunsubscribe\b/i at line 7 >>From Cloudhid@aol.com Mon Nov 23 21:52:17 1998 >Received: from [198.81.17.7] (helo=imo17.mx.aol.com) > by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) > id 0ziASW-0001yP-00 > for KLR650@lists.xmission.com; Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:52:17 -0700 >Received: from Cloudhid@aol.com > by imo17.mx.aol.com (IMOv16.10) id OXTJa08003 > for ; Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:51:34 +1900 (EST) >From: Cloudhid@aol.com >Message-ID: >Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:51:34 EST >To: KLR650@lists.xmission.com >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Subject: Re: (klr650) I've finally made up my mind! >Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII >Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit >X-Mailer: AOL 3.0 for Mac sub 79 > >On 11/23/98, mkovaliv@MNSi.Net wrote: snip > >>It doesn't make sense to me to spend $1000.00 plus to try and >>make it...[The DR650SEX]...what the KLR is out the box. > > I can't advise you on which dealership to get your klr from, > but I can tell you that you need to unsubscribe from this list > as fast as you can, or you may end up spending a lot more than > $1000 in aftermarket goodies from reading the posts here... > > Redondo Ron (who has one for almost the price of two;-) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner Date: 24 Nov 1998 07:00:08 -0800 KLR650s are both mechanically noisy (knocks, clatter) and durable, being well-engineered (for example, the rod big end bearing is a roller rather than a bushing type, and that's one source of the clatter). I installed a Cobra muffler (which I "relieved" by drilling the internal baffle), which not only gave me more power (#156 main jet installed); it also made the mechanical noise less noticeable. Now I just run the best oil I can find (Amsoil), warm 'er up before I ride, and have a great time. Previously, I worried about the mechanical noise. You (New KLR Owner) may want to compare your bike's noise to another KLR's before you stop worrying; you may have a problem if your bike is lots noisier. Happy Riding! Rob C. '98KLR650A12 3800mi; '98 Voyager XII 3300mi; '97KLR250 1400mi. -----Original Message----- >At 11:46 PM 11/22/98 -0500, Kirk.Cossairt@icn.siemens.com wrote: >> >> >>As a new owner of a 91' KLR, I have a few questions about my new ride. >> >>1 - Low rpm thumping/banging that goes away after 2k rpm. (like a rod >>knock) ( A knowledgeable friend heard the bike and says "most Kawasaki >>singles make such a racket" any comments?? > >My new KLR650 made this annoying noise right out of the box (up to >3000rpm's). I listened to another '99 which made the same noise. The >owner didn't notice it as I do. Kawasaki dealers and reps say it is normal >for this engine. I say it's poor design. > >>2 - Rattle from clutch basket that also goes away as clutch engages?? > >Probably normal gear/clutch plate noise. > >Jim McFaden in Dallas > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) Headlight modulators Date: 24 Nov 1998 07:42:56 PST I think headlight modulators greatly improve one's daytime visibility for city riding. I wouldn't ride without them. Two good vendors are Kriss and Kisan Technologies. You can find info on Kriss in the mags. I don't think Kisan advertises as widely but, since I got mine from them, I can provide the info: Kisan Technologies order line 1-888-004-kisan www.kisantech.com Good folks to deal with, in my experience. Marick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bryce Hysjulien" Subject: (klr650) RE: Pushrods Date: 24 Nov 1998 10:10:38 -0600 So, if Yamaha were to take half of its new 1600 it would be a 800 cc single making roughly 45 ft/lbs. of torque. They could probably stuff it in a Super Tenere frame. Where do I send the E-mail to try and convince them! Bryce KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "R. Kaub" Subject: (klr650) Carburetor Date: 24 Nov 1998 11:47:26 When working on the carb without removing it, should you swing the bottom of the carb toward the chain side of the bike or the other way? Thanks. Bob Kaub State University of New York PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Carburetor Date: 24 Nov 1998 12:25:42 EST On 11/24/98, rkaub@binghamton.edu wrote: snip >When working on the carb without removing it, should you swing the >bottom of the carb toward the chain side of the bike or the other way? I rotate the bottom toward the left (chain) side. I now unscrew the starter plunger cap nut first. One time I used a little too much elbow grease and had the pleasure of finding that Kawa charges $12 for that little black plastic cap >:-/ Redondo Ron (a clown with two caps and no gown) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Bearing Surfaces Date: 24 Nov 1998 10:43:16 -0800 Hi Listers- In the Premiere issue of DSN, Eldon Carl wrote: "You can prevent damaging your KLR's frame by lubing the bearing surfaces of your side stand pivot each time you lube the chain. Forget to do this and you will be welding your frame someday to fix your side stand." Would somebody mind expounding on this? I don't see the connection (pun unintentional) between lubing the pivot point and having to weld the frame, unless the sidestand welds itself to the frame. Darrel A12 "Avenger" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Metal Mass & Traffic Signals Date: 24 Nov 1998 11:46:07 -0800 ---------- > > In a local motorcycle rag there's a column called "Ask The Sergeant" where > > a motorcycle cop answers readers' questions from a legal perspective (a > > recent one was on the legalities of what to do when your bike won't trip a > > traffic signal. If anyone on the list would like to know his answer, I'll > > be glad to post it). I'll forward your question and post the response if > > any. Darrel, A12 "Avenger", SoCal ******************** > From: Brian > Recently some listers had this discussion with respect to the legality of > leaving a traffic signal that doesn't acknowledge a bikes weight or metal mass, > however most concluded that we could talk our way out of a ticket. I would > definitely like to know what Police consider proper legal etiquette. ********************* Brian and the others who asked me to post the Sarge's advice (Bob and Conall)- The consensus of the infamous KLR listserve wasn't far from what the Sarge had to say: "There are several things you can do to increase the metallic signature of your bike. The first thing to try is covering as much of the sensor line with your bike as you can. Don't stop in the center of the square; stop directly over one of the black lines and try to put your engine directly over one of the *corners* of the square. If this doesn't work, try a trick that we teach to motorcycle cops. Put your sidestand down directly on one of the lines of the square and let it support the entire weight of the bike. This works 99% of the time (I've tried it--it works!-Darrel). If all your efforts fail to trip the signal and you've waited a reasonable time, you need to select another course of action. You have several options and I'm sorry to say that none of them are an ideal solution. The first thought most of us have is to wait a reasonable time and then, when traffic is clear, ride carefully through the red light. If you are caught doing this you could logically defend your action to the officer and hope he has an understanding of this specific problem. Most officers are well aware of the situation and use a lot of discretion in dealing with it. Unfortunately, you might encounter a young, less experienced officer who thinks you're just trying to con your way out of a ticket. This is why I would recommend safer alternatives. If you are on a single lane road and the light won't change, I would suggest making a right turn, going down a road a hundred feet and then making a "U" turn (this might be illegal in some states - Darrel). There is a slight chance you will be cited for "right turn from improper position (Calif. Vehicle Code section 22100a) but this is very unlikely, especially if you do a diplomatic job of explaining your turn to the officer. Another option is to put your sidestand down, walk over to the corner and push the "walk" button, then return to your bike. This will help if you're going straight but it won't do you any good if you're stuck in a left turn lane. If the light for the left turn lane won't change, wait for the straight-through signal to turn green and, when traffic clears, ride straight the intersection. Once again, go down the road a hundred feet and make a "U" turn. This could earn you a citation for "going straight from a left turn only lane" (CVC Section 22101d) but this would be very unlikely. The most important thing to do when selecting a course of action is to logically evaluate your options. Choose the manuever that is the least hazardous and that can be done with the most safety for you and the other vehicles on the roadway. Remember that, no matter how long you've been stuck at the signal, you are never justified in making a manuever that endangers other motorists or violates their right of way. If you are stopped by an officer for one of these manuevers, be polite and do your best to calmly explain your actions. If the unlikely occurs and you receive a citation, I strongly recommend that you contest it in court, again calmly and reasonably explaining the situation to the judge. You might consider having a copy of this article with you to help support your actions." Ride Safe, Sgt. Mike Brewer ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Cycoactive Products Date: 24 Nov 1998 15:07:31 -0500 To all: I have just added Cycoactive Products to our list of vendors. I think you all should check out the site as there is a lot of great stuff there for Dual Sport riders! http://www.cycoactive.com Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Fw: Traffic Cop (NKLR) Date: 24 Nov 1998 12:24:24 -0800 ---------- > From: Conall O'Brien: > I would be interested in knowing what to tell a cop in case I come > across a slow-reacting/nonfunctioning traffic signal. > Thanks darrel > > Conall --DIGEST > Fremont CA. > klr650@webtv.net ********************************** Intriguing wording you use here Conall. The following may interest you. In the "Ask The Sarge" column in the issue following the one I quoted in a previous post, a reader wrote: "Regarding signal sensors that won't trip for motorcycles, application of the following Calif. Vehicle Code Section has been suggested. 21800(d) (1): The driver of any vehicle approaching an intersection which has official traffic control signals that are inoperative shall stop at the intersection, and may proceed with caution when it is safe to do so. The sensor problem was probably not what the lawmakers had in mind, but, once written, the law means whatever the court says it means. What do you think about using this to defend going through a red light attached to an inoperative (for me!) sensor? Sergeant Brewer writes: I am impressed! Your suggestion of applying Section 21800 (d) (1) of the CVC to this situation is very creative and quite logical. Unfortunately, this section is not a defense for violating a signal that won't change for your motorcycle. As used in the Vehicle Code, "inoperative" was intended by the legislators to mean blacked out, as in no lights whatsoever and the courts have supported this interpretation. A signal that is showing red and won't change for your bike is still "operating" as far as the Vehicle Code (and the court) is concerned. More importantly, it is also still "operating" (showing green) for that truck approaching on the cross street. The signal may not be operating as intended but it is, in fact, operating. What you are describing is not an "inoperative" signal but rather a "malfunctioning" signal and Section 21800(d) (1) does not permit you to violate a "malfunctioning" signal. In regards to what the law-makers had in mind and how the court interprets it, you are again very close to the target. When a new law goes into affect, it has supporting documentation called "legislative intent." As the name suggests, the legislative intent explains the reason for enacting the law and defines what the lawmakers were trying to accomplish. When it comes time for a judge to interpret a law in his or her courtroom, rules of law pretty much require them to follow the legislative intent. With all this said, if I were contesting a citation for violating a red light that wouldn't trip for my motorcycle, I might consider adding this element to my defense. I would still start off with the logical points described in last month's response (my last post to the KLR list-Darrel), then I would maybe close my defense with something like, "And besides, your Honor, doesn't Section 21800 (d) (1) allow me to go through a signal that won't change for my motorcycle?" It is not an accurate application of the law, but it might be the final element needed to cause the judge to doubt the merits of the citation." Ride Safe, Sgt. Mike Brewer ************************************** All this legal mumbo jumbo just makes me want to ride more in the dirt! Darrel, A12 "Avenger" ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Wright Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)Kermit Chairs Date: 24 Nov 1998 19:36:35 -0500 Hey, All you dual sport campers. Look on the side of your Kermit Chair and send me the phone number in Tennessee where these bad boys are made. Need a couple for the Xmas season. Don't send the Aerostich number. I want to visit this place in TN. I will be up there in a few weeks. Thanx in advance, Bill Wright Hotlanta, GA. 98 KLR650 - "Special K" - 21k miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: RE: (klr650) She got me a COBRA Pipe! Date: 24 Nov 1998 20:18:33 -0600 P.S. The weather has been absolutely perfect in Milwaukee the last few days too, and it looks like this run is going to continue for a little while. Kenny, it looks like you picked a bad weekend to prep your bike for winter. Last year I think I prepped my bike for storage something like five times, and it actually never sat for more than a week or so. Maybe we'll have another mild winter. I too got an early Xmas present. I mounted a new Cobra 4stroke exhaust & K&N filter. Sounds great, looks great. It's almost as loud as a hog. I had to buy a new asbestos gasket $12.40 (Woodfield cycle had it in stock). The nickel plated collector is melting a small about of black under fender by the brake m/c. Otherwise perfect fit. I'll be riding this weekend (forecast in the 60's) Kenny ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "skip faulkner" Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR650) Night vis and safety Date: 24 Nov 1998 22:11:55 -0700 >Skip, I'm interested in installing headlight oscillators on my bikes too. >Do you know a source for these, and what is their price? Thanks. Rob C. >'98 KLR650 3800mi >'98 Voyager XII 3300mi >'97 KLR250 1400mi >-----Original Message----- Rob, I bought my modulator from a rep at the BMW rally in Missoula, this summer. It is a PathBlazer made by Kisan Technologies. Fred may have access to them, and I know Competition Accessories carries them. I`d check with Fred first. Matrick posted the website for Kisan. I have the P115 which is the high power version for H4 bulbs, which is what you have. If you are staying with stock voltages, get the 75. I paid $49 for mine, but that was at a rally, where you can get some good deals. I believe they are more than that . I don`t know if they tell you on the website, but these modulators have a photovoltaic sensor, that disengages the system at night, pretty cool. They also have a tail-light modulator that activates as soon as you touch your brakes, and ending in a steady light. They make a cool signal cut-off that I got to try out on a demo bike. You can program it to cut off your turn signal any where from 5 to 80 seconds after the signal has been turned on. It`s all in the flasher unit, so you just switch flashers. Skip (who needs a brain modulator) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: (klr650) Uneven brake pad wear Date: 25 Nov 1998 00:37:23 -0600 (CST) Hey guys, Got a technical question for anyone that can help me. I noticed that the dunlopads metal pads I've been running for a few thousand miles are wearing pretty unevenly. The inside pad looks like it is wearing at twice the rate than the outside pad does. The inside pad also looked like it was crooked (wearing more on the back part of the pad). I brought this up with the guys at the Windy City get-together and the consensus was to make sure that the slidy thing on the caliper (which pulls the inside pad against the rotor) wasn't sticking. I pulled the caliper to check and found that it was sliding over without resistance or binding. Anybody have any ideas why this pad is wearing so much faster? Is my caliper shot? I did find out why the inside pad itself was wearing faster on the back side. Turns out that at one time or another I heated the brakes up enough to warp the pad backing. I know that I'm a little brake happy, but I was a little surprised to see this. Any help is appreciated, Carlos ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Uneven brake pad wear Date: 25 Nov 1998 07:28:37 -0500 At 12:37 AM 11/25/98 -0600, Carlos Yonan Gonzalez wrote: > >Hey guys, >Got a technical question for anyone that can help me. I >noticed that the dunlopads metal pads I've been running for a few thousand >miles are wearing pretty unevenly. The inside pad looks like it is >wearing at twice the rate than the outside pad does. The inside pad also >looked like it was crooked (wearing more on the back part of the pad). I >brought this up with the guys at the Windy City get-together and the >consensus was to make sure that the slidy thing on the caliper (which >pulls the inside pad against the rotor) wasn't sticking. I pulled the >caliper to check and found that it was sliding over without resistance or >binding. Anybody have any ideas why this pad is wearing so much faster? >Is my caliper shot? > >I did find out why the inside pad itself was wearing faster on the back >side. Turns out that at one time or another I heated the brakes up >enough to warp the pad backing. I know that I'm a little brake happy, but >I was a little surprised to see this. Perhaps the calipers need greasing. -Tom needs to do this himself. '96 KLR 650 30,900 miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert frey" Subject: (klr650) Headlight Shroud Date: 25 Nov 1998 10:27:37 -0500 In the recent issue of 4-stroke Dirt Bike they have an article on a XR400. With all the mods listed, they didn't put in the groovy dual-headlight front fairing/numberplate. Anybody know where i can get one from and how much they are? Would look trick on my RXC620! Thanks Robert Withlacoochee DualSport Riders Southern DualSporter Florida, USA KTM RXC620 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (F. J. Smith) Subject: (klr650) Fwd: RE: DR800 BIG Date: 25 Nov 1998 10:01:36 -0800 (PST) --WebTV-Mail-1753561009-129 Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit --WebTV-Mail-1753561009-129 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Message/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAsAhRSofNXm8V6+SLB1Cg0ywTQsWVWtwIURoQ7PSVGWbrD++N2ah8Jd7uw+MI= Message-ID: <928-365C4569-1155@mailtod-141.iap.bryant.webtv.net> In-Reply-To: "Pokluda, Gino F" 's message of Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:16:53 -0700 (MST) Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) I read where Honda is putting a detuned version of its 996cc V-twin in a dual sport package for European consumption only in '99. What a bummer!. What are these marketing guys ingesting anyway?. Jim Palmdale --WebTV-Mail-1753561009-129-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: (klr650) RE: DR800 BIG Date: 25 Nov 1998 11:50:10 -0700 Hi Jim, They're injesting past mistakes. Every time they've tried to market the big Adventure-Touring bikes in the US they get spanked. Honda is probably still smarting over the '89 XL600V Transalp, which they had to dump at cost over the next few years. A real shame as that was a great bike for it's purposes. Hopefully the demand for these bikes is increasing to the point where there is a market. Tom ======================================== >I read where Honda is putting a detuned >version of its 996cc V-twin in a dual sport >package for European consumption only in >'99. What a bummer!. What are these marketing guys ingesting anyway?. > >Jim >Palmdale +-------------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products | 701 34th Ave | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | | Design/Manufacture of Motorcycling Accessories | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com/mc | e-mail: moto@cycoactive.com | tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016 +-------------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE klr650@lists.xmission.com: Non-member submission from [phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps)] Date: 25 Nov 1998 13:13:59 -0700 -----Original Message----- [phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps)] >>From phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca Wed Nov 25 13:01:50 1998 >Received: from [204.244.191.212] (helo=bowes.prn.bc.ca) > by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) > id 0zil8H-0003Nh-00 > for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Wed, 25 Nov 1998 13:01:49 -0700 >Received: from bulldog.prn.bc.ca (bulldog.prn.bc.ca [204.244.191.41]) > by bowes.prn.bc.ca (8.9.1/8.9.1) with ESMTP id NAA21085 > for ; Wed, 25 Nov 1998 13:01:43 -0700 >Received: from BULLDOG/SpoolDir by bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Mercury 1.21); > 25 Nov 98 13:01:51 -0700 >Received: from SpoolDir by BULLDOG (Mercury 1.21); 25 Nov 98 13:01:28 -0700 >Received: from [192.168.2.218] by bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Mercury 1.21); > 25 Nov 98 13:01:26 -0700 >Message-Id: >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 13:04:25 -0800 >To: klr650@lists.xmission.com >From: phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps) >Subject: boots, luggage, touring > >I'm just in the process of buying a 96 KLR 650. I hope to do a trip across >Canada next summer on it. Some questions: >1. What is some good luggage that will fit a KLR? >2. What are some good biking boots that will work well for touring on a >KLR? I would like boots that I could wear while just walking around as >well as when I'm on the bike. >3. Any recommended modifications to the bike that would make it better for >long days at highway speed? The bike already has a Corbin seat and taller >windscreen. > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: RE: DR800 BIG Date: 25 Nov 1998 17:30:45 -0500 At 10:01 AM 11/25/98 -0800, F. J. Smith wrote: >X-WebTV-Signature: 1 > ETAsAhRSofNXm8V6+SLB1Cg0ywTQsWVWtwIURoQ7PSVGWbrD++N2ah8Jd7uw+MI= >From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (F. J. Smith) >Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:59:05 -0800 (PST) >To: dust@dorje.com >Subject: RE: DR800 BIG >Message-ID: <928-365C4569-1155@mailtod-141.iap.bryant.webtv.net> >In-Reply-To: "Pokluda, Gino F" 's message of Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:16:53 -0700 (MST) >Content-Disposition: Inline >Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit >MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) > >I read where Honda is putting a detuned >version of its 996cc V-twin in a dual sport >package for European consumption only in >'99. What a bummer!. What are these marketing guys ingesting anyway?. Data, as in marketing data that sez' they can sell more sport bikes and cuisers at higher margins. Sad, but true. -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "John L. Wilson" Subject: (klr650) Headlight Bulb Removal on KLR 650 & Blown Fuse Date: 25 Nov 1998 16:46:58 -0600 Headlight Bulb Removal. How does the bulb come out. I have a 1995 KLR 650 and I want to check the bulb for proper wattage (65/55). I have blown a fuse and loose the headlight about three times over the past two months. It seems to happen anytime I ride for more than 2-3 hours. I am the second owner and the prior owner may have put a higher wattahe bulb in that may contribute to the blown fuse?? Blown Fuses. See the above. After riding 2-3 hours I loose my headlight. Each time there has been a blown fuse. The fuse that blows is a 10 amp fuse. I a assume that is the proper amp fuse. Someone correct me if it is not. Id blowing the fuse for the headlight circuit common? What is the cure? Thanks in advance. John =========================================================== John L. Wilson '95 KLR 650 '96 R1100RT STOC #090 Jlwilsn@flash.net HSTA #5817 IBMWR BMWMOA Tulsa, OK =========================================================== ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Tampa to the Yucatan! Date: 25 Nov 1998 17:50:42 -0500 For those of us living in the southeast it is a long way to get to Texas and the Mexican border for any type of "winter" riding fun! I found out yesterday that there is now a ferry/crusieship that departs Tampa Port twice a week for Progresso, Mexico (Yucatan) and returns to Tampa twice a week. this is a great opportunity for the folks living on the east coast to get to Mexico and do it fast and cheap! Great riding and sights all over the Yucatan and southern Mexico! If interested in details, drop me a line direct - will provide details on cost, ect. Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Headlight Bulb Removal on KLR 650 & Blown Fuse Date: 25 Nov 1998 18:30:44 -0500 At 04:46 PM 11/25/98 -0600, John L. Wilson wrote: >Headlight Bulb Removal. How does the bulb come out. I have a 1995 KLR >650 and I want to check the bulb for proper wattage (65/55). I have >blown a fuse and loose the headlight about three times over the past two >months. It seems to happen anytime I ride for more than 2-3 hours. I >am the second owner and the prior owner may have put a higher wattahe >bulb in that may contribute to the blown fuse?? > > >Blown Fuses. See the above. After riding 2-3 hours I loose my >headlight. Each time there has been a blown fuse. The fuse that blows >is a 10 amp fuse. I a assume that is the proper amp fuse. Someone >correct me if it is not. > >Id blowing the fuse for the headlight circuit common? What is the cure? As has been discussed here in the past, the KLRs wiring harness is barely up to the task of carrying the load of the standard lighting system. My solution was one of the more radical ones seen here: I bypassed the stock harness with a pair of 10 gauge wires up to the headstock, then used the stock harness to actuate relays that actualy run the lights. The headlight is now considerably brighter as a result and overall electrical reliability is improved. As for removing the headlight bulb, it helps if you have skinny hands. :) Reach in and remove the rubber boot that covers the socket at the rear. Give the socket and bulb a 1/8th turn, then remove. It can be a bit of a pain, but its simple. -Tom ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) New URL for KLR650 Web Page Date: 25 Nov 1998 18:16:55 -0500 Please make a note that the KLR650 Web Page URL is now: http://www.dualsport.org My email address for purposes of the Web Page is: webmaster@dualsport.org If you use the old one it will still work for a month or so. Please bookmark the new one now - thanks Bill Haycock Webmaster - KLR650 Web Page ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Fwd: RE: DR800 BIG Date: 25 Nov 1998 18:17:10 -0700 > snip: What are these marketing guys ingesting anyway?. > > snip: Data, as in marketing data that sez' they can sell more sport bikes > and > cuisers at higher margins. > All true. Dual-sport bikes are one of the slowest-moving categories. Kawasaki even admits that the KLR is one of their least popular big bikes. But they must sell enough to pay the sushi bills. --rr (So-desu, ne!) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)Kermit Chairs Date: 25 Nov 1998 17:31:56 -0800 Bill Wright writes: All you dual sport campers. Look on the side of your Kermit Chair and send me the phone number in Tennessee where these bad boys are made. Need a couple for the Xmas season. Don't send the Aerostich number. I want to visit this place in TN. I will be up there in a few weeks. *************************************8 Bill- My Kermit doesn't have a phone number, but the address is: Kermit's Camping Products 6242 Highway 100 W Pleasantville, TN 37147 Good gift idea for motorcycle campers, hikers, etc. Very comfortable chair (with a back) that folds up small and light. Oakwood and strong canvas material. Darrel ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Tampa to Progresso Ferry Date: 25 Nov 1998 21:08:47 -0500 I received many requests for information about the new ferry service from Tampa to Progresso, Mexico (Yucatan). Following information was obtained from the reservation office of the Ferry Company in Tampa: Company Name: American Viking Lines Phone: 800-450-8633 Location: Port of Tampa (pier 202) Departures from Tampa to Progresso: Friday and Tuesday (Don't know what time) Departure from Progresso to Tampa: Sunday and Wednesday Price for motorcycle round trip: $75.00 Price per person in a cabin with full bath (double occupancy) $$144.00 Round trip Price per person in a cabin (single occupancy) $193.00 round trip A round trip does not lock you into a specific date to return - when making reservations you buy a round trip ticket and then specify your return trip date so they can reserve you a cabin. A single way fare is available - I didn't ask! Mexican customs office is on the dock at Progresso. supposedly briefed to expedite tourists and "be nice!" The company has been running the ferry two weeks now and has been close to full each trip. They are planning to purchase and put into operation a second ferry in March 1999. I am putting together a small group to go over to the Yucatan on March 23rd, 1999. (Tuesday) I would be willing to take a few more if someone is interested in going. >From the Port of Progresso it is a short ride to many Mayan ruin sites in the Yucatan, Chiapus is a days ride, Palenque, one of the best Mayan sites, is a days ride and the fantastic old Colonial cities of Oaxaca and San Cristobal are about a days ride - plenty to do for a few weeks - even less if you don't have the time. Hope this helps! Bill PS - Remember, the new URL for the KLR650 Web Site is: http:www.dualsport.org ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Blue bulbs/lenses Date: 26 Nov 1998 00:50:41 PST >They law only allows for red tail lights, but that hasn't curbed the >use of the blue dots since enforcement is lacking. There is one main problem with the blue dots in the taillight lens. Blue light destroys night vision. Do you REALLY want the driver of the car behind you to have night blindness??? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: protective motorcycle clothing Date: 26 Nov 1998 08:11:19 -0700 -----Original Message----- >Hi, > >My name is Sarah Hambleton. I am a student at De-Montfort University >studying for a B.Sc. Hons Textiles and Apparel, where I am currently >in my final year. I am writing my dissertation on the subject of >motorcycle clothing, and will be comparing leather with synthetic >apparel, for protection against injury. > >Mark Bradshaw and myself have designed a questionnaire on his >web-site, asking riders for any gruesome details of past accidents, >injuries and also on protective clothing preferences. > >I would be most grateful if you could help me with my research by >putting the following message on your site: > ------------------ >Got any stories of past accidents and injuries? Want to talk about >'em? Contact this address: >http://www.dmu.ac.uk/~msb/questionnaire.htm >or try: >http://www.dmu.ac.uk/~msb then click on the bike icon > ------------------ > >Many Thanks > >Sarah >(the biker chick) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________ >DO YOU YAHOO!? >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: MOTOBEEM@aol.com Subject: (klr650) not a KLR, but interesting Date: 26 Nov 1998 10:12:43 EST This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --part0_912093164_boundary Content-ID: <0_912093164@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Happiness is a bike and a babe! 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--part0_912093164_boundary-- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) KLR650 FAQ Date: 26 Nov 1998 11:38:18 -0500 A few weeks ago I read about a suggestion to compile a FAQ list about the KLR - If I remember correctly, we were all going to submit some recommended questions and answers. Has anyone taken this task on to act as the coordinating point of contact? I suggest someone who is willing post their intent to act as the coordinator for this project. Your job would be to receive all the recommendations and answers and then send them on to me so I can construct a page and post them on the KLR Web Page. The format should be: 1. Question: ----------------- Answer: ------------------ 2. Question: ---------------- Answer: ----------------- And so forth Any takers for this job? Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Dual Sport message Board Date: 26 Nov 1998 11:33:40 -0500 I have just uploaded a new KLR650 Home Page which includes the capability to post and respond to messages. you will see it on the KLR Home Page. simply "click" where directed and follow the instructions. I would ask that you check the board once in a while as many new folks who come across the KLR Page do not realize we have a KLR LIST! When ever someone leaves a question or comment about the KLR page I would ask that you reply to the post and then recommend and direct them to how they can sign up for the LIST. I really don't want the message board to take the place of the LIST - Is a good way to allow new people a way to communicate with us initially and then we move them to the LIST. Please go to the KLR Page and check out the message board - thanks Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Fw: protective motorcycle clothing Date: 26 Nov 1998 10:30:26 -0700 This survey is a bit shy of sophistication and is unlikely to generate any valid or useful conclusions. Anyone with professional experience in developing such statistical survey forms might get in touch with this student and offer some technical assistance. Dr Robert > Subject: protective motorcycle clothing > > >Hi, > > > >My name is Sarah Hambleton. I am a student at De-Montfort University > >studying for a B.Sc. Hons Textiles and Apparel, where I am currently > >in my final year. I am writing my dissertation on the subject of > >motorcycle clothing, and will be comparing leather with synthetic > >apparel, for protection against injury. > > > >Mark Bradshaw and myself have designed a questionnaire on his > >web-site, asking riders for any gruesome details of past accidents, > >injuries and also on protective clothing preferences. > > > >I would be most grateful if you could help me with my research by > >putting the following message on your site: > > ------------------ > >Got any stories of past accidents and injuries? Want to talk about > >'em? Contact this address: > >http://www.dmu.ac.uk/~msb/questionnaire.htm > >or try: > >http://www.dmu.ac.uk/~msb then click on the bike icon > > ------------------ > >Many Thanks Sarah (the biker chick) > >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 FAQ Date: 26 Nov 1998 09:50:22 -0800 ANSWERS, we thought you just wanted Questions. We don"t know the ANSWERS man! Morgan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 FAQ Date: 26 Nov 1998 12:59:06 -0500 Wait, I know the answers (c,d,c,b,a,a,e,d,c and true), I just never knew the questions. Robert Morgan wrote: > > ANSWERS, we thought you just wanted Questions. We don"t know the ANSWERS > man! > Morgan ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Please spare the digest subscribers... Date: 26 Nov 1998 11:04:22 -0700 Every now and then I have to post a reminder to the whole list (I generally send a personal note to each and every offender...it gets very tedious). Because of the software used by my ISP to manage the list we are restricted to plain text posts only...no pictures...no attachments...no fancy html..no mime...no nothing...Regular subscribers can't see what happens to the poor digest subscribers...Below is an example but I've spared you the 20 pages of garbage that followed...thanks for your cooperation. Happy Thanksgiving to all... Kurt Simpson (list administrator) Qk1+xwMAAAAAADYEAAAoAAAAWAIAAJsBAAABAAgAAAAAAEjDAwDODgAA2A4AAAABAAAAAAAA AAAAAFUAAACqAAAA/wAAAAAlAABVJQAAqiUAAP8lAAAASAAAVUgAAKpIAAD/SAAAAG0AAFVt AACqbQAA/20AAACSAABVkgAAqpIAAP+SAAAAtgAAVbYAAKq2AAD/tgAAANsAAFXbAACq2wAA /9sAAAD/AABV/wAAqv8AAP//AAAAACUAVQAlAKoAJQD/ACUAACUlAFUlJQCqJSUA/yUlAABI JQBVSCUAqkglAP9IJQAAbSUAVW0lAKptJQD/bSUAAJIlAFWSJQCqkiUA/5IlAAC2JQBVtiUA qrYlAP+2JQAA2yUAVdslAKrbJQD/2yUAAP8lAFX/JQCq/yUA//8lAAAASABVAEgAqgBIAP8A SAAAJUgAVSVIAKolSAD/JUgAAEhIAFVISACqSEgA/0hIAABtSABVbUgAqm1IAP9tSAAAkkgA VZJIAKqSSAD/kkgAALZIAFW2SACqtkgA/7ZIAADbSABV20gAqttIAP/bSAAA/0gAVf9IAKr/ SAD//0gAAABtAFUAbQCqAG0A/wBtAAAlbQBVJW0AqiVtAP8lbQAASG0AVUhtAKpIbQD/SG0A AG1tAFVtbQCqbW0A/21tAACSbQBVkm0AqpJtAP+SbQAAtm0AVbZtAKq2bQD/tm0AANttAFXb bQCq220A/9ttAAD/bQBV/20Aqv9tAP//bQAAAJIAVQCSAKoAkgD/AJIAACWSAFUlkgCqJZIA /yWSAABIkgBVSJIAqkiSAP9IkgAAbZIAVW2SAKptkgD/bZIAAJKSAFWSkgCqkpIA/5KSAAC2 kgBVtpIAqraSAP+2kgAA25IAVduSAKrbkgD/25IAAP+SAFX/kgCq/5IA//+SAAAAtgBVALYA qgC2AP8AtgAAJbYAVSW2AKoltgD/JbYAAEi2AFVItgCqSLYA/0i2AABttgBVbbYAqm22AP9t tgAAkrYAVZK2AKqStgD/krYAALa2AFW2tgCqtrYA/7a2AADbtgBV27YAqtu2AP/btgAA/7YA Vf+2AKr/tgD//7YAAADbAFUA2wCqANsA/wDbAAAl2wBVJdsAqiXbAP8l2wAASNsAVUjbAKpI 2wD/SNsAAG3bAFVt2wCqbdsA/23bAACS2wBVktsAqpLbAP+S2wAAttsAVbbbAKq22wD/ttsA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Re: Red Neck On Hot Date Date: 26 Nov 1998 11:10:02 -0800 Please forward to my Dearest Emily, Dear Emily, I saw the picture of you with the scoundrel you left me for. You looked happy riding on his bike. I always tended to your every desire, how could you flock to him? Is the grass really greener by his side? Oh dear Emily I miss you so baadly. (choke!) your lovin' shepherd, eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Carburetor Date: 26 Nov 1998 11:28:59 -0800 Chain side worked for me. Rob C. A12 -----Original Message----- >When working on the carb without removing it, should you swing the bottom >of the carb toward the chain side of the bike or the other way? Thanks. >Bob Kaub >State University of New York >PO Box 6000 >Binghamton, NY 13902 >607-777-2715 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Oil Pressure Date: 26 Nov 1998 17:48:17 -0500 Peter, I have posted your question form the message board to the KLR LIST Group where 300 guys and gals will see your post and I'm sure a few will reply to your question. To join the KLR LIST go to the KLR home page and "click on FAQ KLR LIST - it will tell you how to join in Let me know if you have a problem - Kurt, please be sure they get on the LIST Bill I own a 98 KLR 650 and was wondering if its possible to hook up any kind of oil gauge or light or if the bike already has something??? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Gas tanks Date: 26 Nov 1998 17:50:14 -0500 I have posted your question to the KLR LIST page - please check the KLR Home Page under "FAQ LIST" to see how to join in - someone will reply to your question soon. Bill 205.188.193.158 writes: Anyone know of a good aftermarket gas tank and radiator shrouds for a 1990 KLR650, 90% offroad 10% on road. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Gas Tanks Date: 26 Nov 1998 17:54:53 -0500 I have posted your question to the KLR LIST page - please check the KLR Home Page under "FAQ LIST" to see how to join in - someone will reply to your question soon. Bill 205.188.193.158 writes: Anyone know of a good aftermarket gas tank and radiator shrouds for a 1990 KLR650, 90% offroad 10% on road. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce Hedquist" Subject: Re: (klr650) Heavy Clutch Pull Date: 26 Nov 1998 22:44:35 -0700 I recently purchased a 92 with 4500 miles. When riding a friends 98 KLR I notice the clutch lever pull is significantly less. Perhaps 1/2 of my 92. Question: is this due to the changes made on the 96+ models or do I have a different problem? Also, the bike is equipped with a DynoJet Stage1 kit, K&N filter and stock exhaust. Runs great above 2500, but is decidedly soft below that. Any suggestions? Bruce Hedquist 92 KLR650 95 Concours ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Roundr1@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Heavy Clutch Pull/DynoJet Date: 27 Nov 1998 02:18:35 EST In a message dated 11/26/98, bruhed@earthlink.net wrote: >...clutch lever pull is significantly less. ['92 vs 98KLR] >Also, the bike is equipped with a DynoJet Stage1 kit, K&N filter and >stock exhaust. Runs great above 2500, but is decidedly soft below that. >Any suggestions? ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Bruce, I haven't tried a '92. I've ridden a '96, '97, and '98 and don't recall feeling any differences in clutch pull on those models anyway. Have you adjusted and lubed the cable? The DynoJet kit comes with 3 main jets numbered 136, 140, and 150. DJs instructions say that with the stock exhaust and a K&N filter that you should try the E-clip on the 4th position on the needle, (4th from the flat top) and a 140 jet. Have you verified that's how yours is set up? Is the softness you describe more on the top, middle, low end or throughout the power band? John O. '96KLR Rolling Hills, CA ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) repaint KLR Date: 27 Nov 1998 06:05:22 -0700 >How are you getting the decals off? What type/brand of paint do you use? >How do you prepare the plastic before painting? How does the paint hold up >to scrapes and abrasions? > >Robert ________________________ Robert, here is one of our Hall of Fame posts from the archives by lister Suart Heaslet...hope it helps.... Kurt For Gino, Kurt and all: I talked with Gary Mitchell, technical applications specialist with DuPont about the recommended procedures for painting original equipment manufacturer's (OEM) vehicle plastic that is subject to vibration and flex. Gary's job is dealer support, so he asked that any tech questions be directed through your local dealer network. He was extremely helpful and offered valuable insight into the application procedures outlined on DuPont cut sheets. For reference, DuPont uses two basic classifications of plastic to determine what finish to use. These classifications include both flexible and rigid plastic parts. Plastic types for flexible parts are generally polyolefin material with acronyms such as TPO, PP, EPDM, etc., or are flexible non-polyolefin material such as PUR, TPUR, PC, PCT, etc. Rigid plastic parts are also polyolefin material under the acronyms TPO, PP, EPDM, etc., while rigid non-polyolefin material is identified as ABS, ABS+PC, PC, PBT, PP, PC+PBT, UP, PPPO, PFT (Bexloy(tm) 550k), Bexloy(r) V, PUR (RRIM), etc. The identification methods used to determine plastic type are as follows: 1. Check for the plastic identification symbol, normally found on the back of the part. 2. Float test: Cut a shaving of plastic from the back of the part. The shaving should be free of mold release agents and paint. Non-polyolefin will sink or be submerged. Polyolefin will float. 3. Abrasion test: Sand a spot on an unexposed area with a Grade 36 Roloc Disc. Non-polyolefin material sands cleanly, and polyolefin material melts or frays. Because of the natural vibrations inherent in the KLR, the conversation focused on applications appropriate for flexible plastic parts, though it is recommended that any plastic part should be classified under the above directions before painting. Also, the following directions apply to unprimed, pre-primed or OEM-finished parts: Test pre-primed parts before cleaning. Wipe a small area with lacquer thinner. If it removes primer, use DuPont 2319S plastic prep cleaner to remove primer from entire part, and follow the steps for Unprimed Parts. For all plastics (rigid and flexible, polyolefin or non-polyolefin), proper cleaning is essential to remove all water-soluble and solvent-soluble mold release agents, greases and oils. For pre-primed or OEM-finished parts, wash with hot water and soap such as granular Tide or liquid Dawn. Soap must not have any additives, such as lanolin, that would leave a chemical residue. Let dry. Clean with DuPont 3900S or 3949S Plastic Prep. Let dry. Wet sand with P500 or P600 grit or scuff with gray or red Scotch Brite pad. On pre-primed parts, be careful not to break through to the substrate. If there are no cut-throughs (deep scratches) clean with 3901S or 3909S Plastic Prep to remove sanding sludge. If cut-throughs occur, rewipe with 2319S Plastic Prep to remove sanding sludge and eliminate static electricity. Let dry. (Note Gary's recommendation to use 2319S for most home shop cleaning.) For unprimed parts, wash with hot water and soap, according to the directions above. However, use only DuPont 2319S Plastic Prep for cleaning, since it is a milder cleaning agent for exposed or scratched substrates. Wet sand with P500 or P600 grit or scuff with gray or red Scotch Brite pad. Re-wipe with 2319S Plastic Prep to remove sanding sludge and any mold release agents exposed by sanding, and to eliminate static electricity. Proper cleaning is the key to good system application and performance. To test the surface preparation, pour a cap of 2319S on the prepared area. 2319S will sheet cleanly over a clean substrate. If 2319S beads up, the surface is not clean. Re-clean to remove mold release agents. When Gary was asked whether any of these cleaning solutions were toluene-based, he said no. Apparently, most of the cleaning agents have alcohol-based derivatives and are designed to eliminate many types of contaminants and residues. (Author note: While it is understood that solvents packaged under a brand name can be quite expensive, it is almost impossible to determine what the generic match would be.) For difficult-to-clean substrates and textured plastics, temper the substrate for 30 minutes at 140 degrees F after cleaning and sanding. This may be helpful in driving out further mold release agents. Do not sand after tempering. Reapply 2319S to remove mold release agents. NOTE: Tempering is not beneficial for urethane parts (PUR) due to "post cure" temperatures in excess of 140 degrees F. Caution: Do not use DuPont 3900S, 3901S, 3919S or 3812S (solvent-based cleaners) on unprimed plastic or fiberglass parts. Static electricity build-up can result in a flash fire. DuPont 2319S is made for cleaning unprimed plastic parts safely. In fact, Gary recommended that 2319S be used for all cleaning as he felt it was the safest home-shop cleaner application. After cleaning, let the part dry thoroughly. If polyolefin or unknown plastic, spray on DuPont's Adhesion Promoter for Plastics 2322S in two very light (slightly more than powder) coats. The second coat should be sprayed at right angles to the first coat application, to ensure thorough coverage. This application actually softens the plastic within 15 minutes, and should not be allowed to dry beyond two hours, meaning that the next paint step (primer) must be applied within two hours, depending on humidity, temperature and ventilation. Apply DuPont Plastic Adhesion Sealer 2340S in very light coats. According to the cut sheet, this sealer improves the adhesion, chip resistance and flexibility (it already has flex agents) of DuPont's ChromaSystem finishes applied over semi-flexible and fully-flexible plastic parts. IMPORTANT NOTE: For polyolefin plastics, use 2340S in conjunction with 2322S. For non-polyolefins, apply 2340S directly to the plastic. For a base coat/clear coat finish, Gary recommended DuPont's ChromaPremier base coats, sprayed in light coats, whose stock numbers vary according to color. He also recommended DuPont's v7500 urethane clear coat finish, mixed with DuPont Flex-Additive 2350S, and applied in two WET coats. The Flex Additive is designed for use in selected ChromaSystem(tm) undercoat, single-stage and clearcoat products, and enhances flexibility during the curing process to better withstand light impacts. The v7500 clear urethane product has fewer U.S. state EPA restrictions than the faster-drying ChromaPremier clear coat finish, so it is likely to be more available. Have fun. Read the directions on the cans, do what the dealer says, and keep your genetic chain intact (unless it's too late, of course) with proper protective gear to address Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) warnings. And since I'm not a paint professional, be sure to regard this article with appropriate skepticism. Stuart > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Boots, luggage, touring Date: 27 Nov 1998 07:32:31 -0700 >From: phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps) >Subject: boots, luggage, touring > >I'm just in the process of buying a 96 KLR 650. I hope to do a trip across >Canada next summer on it. Some questions: >1. What is some good luggage that will fit a KLR? >2. What are some good biking boots that will work well for touring on a >KLR? I would like boots that I could wear while just walking around as >well as when I'm on the bike. >3. Any recommended modifications to the bike that would make it better for >long days at highway speed? The bike already has a Corbin seat and taller >windscreen. Allan, I wanted to repost your question in hopes that it will generate some list response. Everyone was probably to busy with Thanksgiving preparation. Check out the DualSport website for a nice review of soft luggage. Here is the url: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page68.html Kawasaki makes a tank bag, tailbag, and saddlebag for the KLR. I have used the tailbag and still used the tankbag. All items work well with the only downside being their lack of waterproofness. Several of us use Aerostitch soft luggage: dry bags in the rear with Tim Bernard's excellent racks (Tim is on the list now) and Aerostitch panniers on the front. I couple mine with the tank bag and the excellent Dual Star Co-Pilot. My favorite piece is the Top of the Line rack which fits over the stock luggage rack but extends some 20" in width. I carry a couple of excellent Ortlieb Dry Duffels with me at all times and am ready to carry up to 5 bags of groceries, oppossums, sheep, an entire computer system (Red Green laptop) or whatever. There are several hardcase possibilities: GIVI makes a complete line of topcase and sidecase; Al Jesse makes a set of aluminum panniers and Hepko/Becker aluminum panniers are also available. Lower price alternatives can come about from fitting some Pelican durable cases with custom mounts available from Jake Jakeman. Some have also modified military equipment cases with success. As for general highway travel. Some have added Scottoilers, auxillary lights (Saeng), Bernard's highway pegs. Most everyone who has tried it praises progressive springs in the front and SS brakelines in front or front/rear. Many of us have added aluminum bash plates. As for hiking boots I would seek out the tallest you can afford and feel comfortable in. I love Russell boots custom made to your foot by Russell Moccasin, Berlin, Wisconsin. I have two pair and they have lasted seven years and look like new. Join in the list, add some insights, ask more questions, people will respond we're all just a little overstuffed and lazy right now... Kurt A12 Bountiful, Utah ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Boots, luggage, touring Date: 27 Nov 1998 09:37:33 -0500 >>From: phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps) >>Subject: boots, luggage, touring >> >>I'm just in the process of buying a 96 KLR 650. I hope to do a trip across >>Canada next summer on it. Some questions: >>1. What is some good luggage that will fit a KLR? >>2. What are some good biking boots that will work well for touring on a >>KLR? I would like boots that I could wear while just walking around as >>well as when I'm on the bike. >>3. Any recommended modifications to the bike that would make it better for >>long days at highway speed? The bike already has a Corbin seat and taller >>windscreen. For a few ideas, you can take a look at my web page: http://www.scsn.net/users/bullet/tomsmods.htm I havent updated it for a while, but things havent changed all that much. -Tom '96 KLR 650 30,900 miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Daniel L. Hill" Subject: (klr650) kickStandCable Date: 27 Nov 1998 09:52:06 -0600 Hello: I was finishing up an oil change this morning when I noticed a cable running from the kick stand to somewhere near the carb. Is this a safety device? In liberty, Dan Daniel L. Hill dlhill@visi.net http://members.visi.net/~dlhill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) kickStandCable Date: 27 Nov 1998 10:20:11 EST In a message dated 11/27/98 7:54:13 AM Mountain Standard Time, dlhill@visi.net writes: << Hello: I was finishing up an oil change this morning when I noticed a cable running from the kick stand to somewhere near the carb. Is this a safety device? >> Yes, it goes to the diabolical side stand safety switch. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) Heavy Clutch Pull Date: 27 Nov 1998 09:35:55 -0800 Try lubing your cable. Some cable lube devices can be used with chain lube pressure-squirted in, from the can. Kawasaki lists one. If you use one of these, be sure to use a brand of chain lube that remains fairly thin. Or buy a can of 3-in-One oil. Otherwise, you'll have a lot of viscous gummy chain lube dragging on your clutch cable, making it harder to work the lever. Oil your lever pivot and cable end, and the pivot yoke and cable end at the other end of the cable. If that doesn't fix it, replace your cable, and get a new one with a plastic-coated inner cable, for less drag. About the engine power, I wouldn't expect much power below 2500, since that's pre-ignition territory anyway. I seldom give my KLR650 a lot of throttle below that. But if you wish, you could replace your stock exhaust with an aftermarket exhaust. The stock exhaust (on my '98 A12, anyway) is relatively dead below about 5500 revs or so, which leaves a narrow burst of power on top. Aftermarket exhausts (Cobra, Supertrapp, etc.) improve low- and mid-range power a lot. I hope this helps. Rob C. A12; KLR250; Voyager XII -----Original Message----- >I recently purchased a 92 with 4500 miles. When riding a friends 98 KLR I >notice the clutch lever pull is significantly less. Perhaps 1/2 of my 92. > >Question: is this due to the changes made on the 96+ models or do I have a >different problem? > >Also, the bike is equipped with a DynoJet Stage1 kit, K&N filter and stock >exhaust. Runs great above 2500, but is decidedly soft below that. Any >suggestions? > > >Bruce Hedquist >92 KLR650 >95 Concours > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! Date: 27 Nov 1998 17:30:28 +0200 -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: rg Kime: B=DDROL SAY Tarih: 26 Kas=FDm 1998 Per=FEembe 06:18 Konu: Re: Ynt: (klr650) Blue bulbs/lenses: NO-NO on the street in the US! >Birol, > >Is there any way an you could measure the current running through your lamps >and the relative light output of the serial versus parallel connection? > Bob, I'll keep your curiosity in my mind and as soon as I get back from Israel I'll do all the measurements scientifically. Fortunately I have all the means for this process. I haven't done that yet since it's working . Hope to give you all the results soon. (i.e. How many Ansilumens and Amperehours). Thank you very much for your curiosity. Curiosity makes us human. Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) Bosch Plugs Date: 27 Nov 1998 15:10:56 -0500 Anyone got the part #'s for the Bosch platinum plugs-Can't find the NGK platinum plugs locally but everyone's got Bosch platinum. By the way, as I was awaiting brake parts for my car, I saw a Bosch Platinum +4 .... has 4 "prongs" spaced like the points of the compass reaching over the electrode. Strange looking creature; nice porcelain insulator and the body of the plug appears to be highly polished-what a work of art for a plug! Jake, who fell in love w/ a spark plug today....... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: BOUNCE klr650@lists.xmission.com: Admin request: /^subject:\s*help\b/i Date: 27 Nov 1998 19:04:25 -0700 -----Original Message----- >>From stuart@heaslet.com Fri Nov 27 16:57:18 1998 >Received: from [206.214.98.1] (helo=dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com) > by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.04 #1) > id 0zjXlF-0005S0-00 > for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Fri, 27 Nov 1998 16:57:18 -0700 >Received: (from smap@localhost) > by dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com (8.8.4/8.8.4) > id RAA03648 for ; Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:56:44 -0600 (CST) >Message-Id: <199811272356.RAA03648@dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com> >Received: from wpb-fl5-15.ix.netcom.com(205.184.3.143) by dfw-ix1.ix.netcom.com via smap (V1.3) > id rma003635; Fri Nov 27 17:56:34 1998 >X-Sender: stuart@heaslet.com >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.0 >Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 18:58:18 -0500 >To: klr650@lists.xmission.com >From: Stuart Heaslet >Subject: Help with FAQ's >In-Reply-To: <002001be1a06$99559000$6e0946a6@dioslc2> >Mime-Version: 1.0 >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >All Listers: > >I'm volunteering to compile a "Frequently Asked Questions AND Answers" list >in response to Bill Haycock's request to add to the KLR website. I'm a >lowly newbie in the KLR world and have gotten a lot of great information >from those here on the List, so this is a chance for me to do a deed. > >I'll use quotes from Bill: > >"Here is all we need. We need to solicit from the LIST ideas for generally >asked questions about the KLR650. You have probably seen others around the >internet. The folks should submit the question and the answer." > >"For Example (simple one!): >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >------------------------------ >"Can the KLR650 really travel as a touring bike, say 500 miles in one day?! > >Answer: Yes it can! It might not be as comfortable as you would like but >it certainly has the mechanical capability to travel distances each day." >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >---------------------- > >In regard to a question like this I may add stuff, like explaining how a >few hardcore types like Barthell and Dean like to do Iron Butt events on >KLR's, and how aftermarket seats might help, etc. > >Bill has asked me to simply compile the the Questions and Answers, then >forward them on to him for edit and inclusion on the KLR website. > >Thanks in advance for all your help. Send all material directly to my >personal email: > >stuart@heaslet.com > > >Stuart >Juno Beach, FL >1998 KLR > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Bosch Plugs Date: 27 Nov 1998 19:03:27 -0800 Jake Look carefully at the construction of that Bosch plug. The platinum in that ( those ) plug consists of a platinum wire that ends flush with the end of the porcelain. The new 4 prong plug is the same configuration. It only takes a pencil dot size of crud on top of that wire end to fowl the plug. We have pulled hundreds of Bosch Platinum plugs out of Honda automobiles where I work, because the car would not run. The NGK plugs listed as Platinum (they come in our Prelude SI cars) are constructed in a conventional configuration, only made of platinum. The're great. The're also $24.oo apiece. Some aircraft plugs are also platinum.......way more money (how much Skip?). When the Bosch Platinum plugs first came out 10 or so years ago, my Bosch rep. gave me and all my techs. a box of plugs apiece. Three days later they were all in the trash. I'm sure these plugs work in something otherwise they wouldn't still be on the market, but they sure didn't work very well in anything I ever ran! The other day a real slick ad came across my desk from one of the auto trade magazines. It carried on and on about increased PROFIT from an untapped market niche for these plugs.............never once did they mention any claims of increased performance. Thats just one mechanics opinion. Good luck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: (klr650) FAQ's Date: 27 Nov 1998 22:52:23 -0600 Kurt Simpson wrote: >I'm volunteering to compile a "Frequently Asked Questions AND Answers" list... BRAVO, Kurt ! I'm sure we will all try to support your efforts ! -- hungree J. Philip Zucht, Regina, Saskatchewan ... Canada, eh! ... 87 1200 Aspencade ... 89 650 KLR ... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: print4u@execpc.com Subject: (klr650) KlR Instrument panel Date: 28 Nov 1998 08:06:38 +0000 My instrument panel on a 88 KLR was smashed due to a flip over (previous owner :) ) A new one costs $600.00 and used ones are impossible to find. Does anyone know of a cheap alternative? I am thinking of getting a ICO enduro computer from Baja Designs ($160.00) but I would still like to have the "lights" for turn signal, neutral, high beam & oil. Anyone know of a aftermarket "thingy" for the light cluster? Steve Kohlmann ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KlR Instrument panel Date: 28 Nov 1998 09:49:31 EST In a message dated 11/28/98 7:05:33 AM Mountain Standard Time, print4u@execpc.com writes: << My instrument panel on a 88 KLR was smashed due to a flip over (previous owner :) ) A new one costs $600.00 and used ones are impossible to find. Does anyone know of a cheap alternative? I am thinking of getting a ICO enduro computer from Baja Designs ($160.00) but I would still like to have the "lights" for turn signal, neutral, high beam & oil. >> If it were me, I'd take the opportunity to make asmall dash plate for indicator lights and mount a GPS for the speedo. The tach is nice, but not necessary. JC Whitney has tons of gauges and stuff for you to use. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) High beam vs. low beam Date: 28 Nov 1998 12:09:43 PST Earlier I wrote: "I was hoping to provoke a few more inputs from some of the other listers, but I suppose the philosophical nature of my inquiry didn't create much interest." To which Carlos replied: >Alright Juan, you provoked me! :) Although my comment doesn't really >deal with night visibility, it deals with something just as important, day >visibility. When I started riding a couple of years ago I was advised by >others to ride with my brights on, day or night. So I did, and I did get >many many cars cutting me off, pulling in front of me, etc. I was fully >expecting this from the many horror stories I've heard, so I wasn't very >surprised. But then one day I read an article with a guy that was >absolutely dead set against using your brights as a means of making >yourself more visible to others. He stated his reasons, which were >reasonable, so I decided to ride for a while without my brights on, and lo >and behold I noticed I wasn't being cut off as much. Now I'm not saying >that brights cause you to get cut off, but I can tell you that I don't >ride with my brights on anymore, unless I need them for road visibilty. >Basically, the authors reasons had to do with how brights tend to mask the >vehicle behind the light and mask the vehicle's true speed as well, >causing people to think that they have more time to turn in front of you >than they actually do. Curiously, my friend in his huge Ford F-350, >which sits high on the road, has riduculously bright lights, and is red >(it doesn't get much more visible than this folks) is cut off by cars with >clocklike regularity. People get in the way of trains pretty often too, >thinking that they have plenty of time. Although I've heard that large >vehicles, such as trains (and your odd F-350) tend to mask their speed >just due to their being large (which is translated in the brain to being >slow), the fact that they actually have bright lights on them makes you >think. Again, I'm not saying that this is proof that running with your >brights can kill you, but rather that it could be a factor that may reduce >your safety on the road if you rely too heavily on visibility aids. I >think it boils down to making yourself visible, but not obnoxiously so, >and to remember that only your own skill and attention can ultimately >prevent you from getting railed by some cell phone talkin' yuppie in an >Audi (don't ask). > >I'm sure if there are any experimental psychologists specializing in >perception out there in KLRland, they could probably shed some light on >this. But if there's not, then I'll just have to rely on anecdotal >evidence for now. > >Carlos >Milwaukee, WI Carlos, thanks for the interesting post. I too have noticed that on way too many occasions people have started to pull in front of me while riding in the daytime with my brights on. One would think the brightness of the light would (if anything) make a person think you are closer than you are, therefore creating an extra level of caution, but who knows? The idea that the brightness could possibly degrade their ability to determine distance along with closure rate makes a lot of sense to me. Out of curiosity, I did some "urban assaulting" today with my lights on low beam, in some very heavy city traffic. Will continue to do so until: A. I'm squashed like a grape. Or... B. I can report back to you and all the other listers with some definitive impressions. At any rate, thanks again for the input. Later, Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) KlR Instrument panel Date: 28 Nov 1998 13:29:19 -0700 Hello Steve, You might try the Touratech rally computer, but it would be around $400. The Touratech has a tachometer, but I haven't even attached that part on my bike as I've never needed to know the RPMs. Being a Touratech importer, CycoActive can get them for you or maybe RideWest hads them in stock. Other option: the NEW Ico computer, which BajaDesigns can get, is really cool. All cost at least double the $160 Ico, but I think one thing you'll really want is a total-mileage odometer, which is available on all the others, except the $160 ICO. Also a GPS will provide lots of the same data and MORE but no total-mileage odometer. Tom ================= >My instrument panel on a 88 KLR was smashed due to a flip over (previous >owner :) ) A new one costs $600.00 and used ones are impossible to find. >Does anyone know of a cheap alternative? I am thinking of getting a ICO >enduro computer from Baja Designs ($160.00) but I would still like to >have the "lights" for turn signal, neutral, high beam & oil. > >Anyone know of a aftermarket "thingy" for the light cluster? > >Steve Kohlmann +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 28 Nov 1998 12:28:12 PST Robert Gaines wrote: "It is interesting to ponder the nature of the Dual-Sport and particularly KLR people. Much more interesting than normal people, definitely out of step with normal mortorcycle people and maybe the population in general." To which I replied: I couldn't agree with you more, Robert. I've come to really appreciate the diversity and originality inherent in our pool of dual-sport enthusiasts. I love the fact that it's not the "hip" thing-- it's mostly comprised of people who have nothing to prove in terms of fashion (Harley owners) or affluence (Beemer owners). The ride is the thing, and to hell with any other agendas. In my humble opinion, that's the way it should be. Another bonus is the great wit to be found among our brethren-- I can't wait to meet some of these guys! At any rate, thanks for writing. Take care, Juan Villarreal ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: GVBettes@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #373 Date: 28 Nov 1998 15:42:29 EST In a message dated 11/28/98 12:11:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner- klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > Anyone got the part #'s for the Bosch platinum plugs-Can't find the NGK > platinum plugs locally but everyone's got Bosch platinum. By the way, as > I was awaiting brake parts for my car, I saw a Bosch Platinum +4 .... Your local dealer can get NGK platinum plugs from Tucker-Rocky. Usually 1 to 2 days. Gary Fresno ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: GVBettes@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #373 Date: 28 Nov 1998 15:47:08 EST In a message dated 11/28/98 12:11:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, owner- klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com writes: > The NGK plugs listed as > Platinum (they come in our Prelude SI cars) are constructed in a > conventional configuration, only made of platinum. The're great. The're > also $24.oo apiece. The NGK platinum plugs I run are the regular configuration. NGK #DP8EVX-9. Available thru Tucker-Rocky. If not in stock should be only a 1 to 2 day turnaround. Check with Fred! Gary Fresno ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) KLR650 after market stuff Date: 28 Nov 1998 17:39:36 -0500 Allan, Go to the following page on the KLR650 Web Site for all kinds of information on after market items that you ask about http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/frameset.html Bill - Webmaster >From: phipps@bulldog.prn.bc.ca (Allan Phipps) >Subject: boots, luggage, touring > >I'm just in the process of buying a 96 KLR 650. I hope to do a trip across >Canada next summer on it. Some questions: >1. What is some good luggage that will fit a KLR? >2. What are some good biking boots that will work well for touring on a >KLR? I would like boots that I could wear while just walking around as >well as when I'm on the bike. >3. Any recommended modifications to the bike that would make it better for >long days at highway speed? The bike already has a Corbin seat and taller >windscreen. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Side Stand by-pass Date: 28 Nov 1998 17:42:40 -0500 Daniel, Go to the following page on the KLR650 Web Site to read about by-=passing this switch: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page23.html Bill - Webmaster Hello: I was finishing up an oil change this morning when I noticed a cable running from the kick stand to somewhere near the carb. Is this a safety device? In liberty, Dan Daniel L. Hill dlhill@visi.net http://members.visi.net/~dlhill In a message dated 11/27/98 7:54:13 AM Mountain Standard Time, dlhill@visi.net writes: << Hello: I was finishing up an oil change this morning when I noticed a cable running from the kick stand to somewhere near the carb. Is this a safety device? >> Yes, it goes to the diabolical side stand safety switch. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 28 Nov 1998 18:07:51 EST In a message dated 98-11-28 15:29:29 EST, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: << I love the fact that it's not the "hip" thing-- it's mostly comprised of people who have nothing to prove in terms of fashion (Harley owners) or affluence (Beemer owners). >> Bullslhit. Plain and simple. The above is typical of the unknowledgable, a gross generalization. While there are some H-D owners that are too overtly attracted to the fashion aspects and some BMW riders that simply buy them becasue they have the money, there are many supporters of each marque that simply enjoy that marque. And, dual sport bikes do seem to be the current rage in cycling. I know ALOT of BMW people who have mundane incomes and they buy a BMW on a 5 year credit plan. Same with H-D people. In other words, they are making a major commitment to the bikes. And there are alot of BMW riders, myself included, that buy and ride older BMWs, air cooled. By the way, didn't BMW invent or modernize dual sporting? Maybe you can tell I have a BMW (R100RS) and a KLR (Tengai). And to the individual who authored the above, I forgive you. I know you are wiser then the statement you made about H-D and Beemer riders. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) High beam vs. low beam Date: 28 Nov 1998 17:16:21 -0700 On the topic of high-vs-low beams, I don't suppose that it would surprise anybody to hear that some drunks and less than fully alert drivers may have a tendency to unconsciously steer toward single points of light. That doesn't explain why those doing left-hand turns do it, however. As most listers would agree, conspicuity (the state of being conspicuous) has a lot to do with survival. For that reason, some paranoid riders will do the "the dance" when approaching potentially hazardous intersections or other locations. Sometimes that means quickly flicking the bike from side to side, or standing on the pegs, or whatever blows up your Belstaffs. The point is to appear to be something worth observing, something unusual. I hate to say it, but jumping up and down a bit may leave you feeling like a clown, but I'd rather be an uninjured clown than some of the alternatives, and yada yada yada. But----It seems to have worked: in the last 100,000 miles of riding, nobody has made a turn in front of me that I would consider life-threatening, or that would cause me to promptly ride alongside and kick their mirrors loose (which I have done for more than one mindless lane-changer on California freeways). A KLR650 provides such a dark and thin form for oncoming traffic, headlamp notwithstanding, that a bit of the unusual is all the more important. For that reason I installed two 4x4-inch bright red-orange disks to the fork legs near the front axle. They are invisible at night since they are not illuminated, but by day they are very eye-catching. Unexpected. Conspicuous. In fact, when the paint was still new, one old lady in front of me pulled over completely, and at the next red light she said that she thought I was a cop with red lights on, bearing down on her. FWIW Dr Robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 28 Nov 1998 17:25:44 -0700 Ztib@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 98-11-28 15:29:29 EST, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: > > << I love the fact that it's not the "hip" thing-- it's > mostly comprised of people who have nothing to prove in terms of fashion > (Harley owners) or affluence (Beemer owners). >> > > Bullslhit. Plain and simple. The above is typical of the unknowledgable, a > gross generalization. While there are some H-D owners that are too overtly > attracted to the fashion aspects and some BMW riders that simply buy them > becasue they have the money, there are many supporters of each marque that > simply enjoy that marque...(snipped). --- Agreed! Best that we don't start in on those generalizations again. A goodly part of the KLR audience includes past or present Beemer pilots, and the overwhelming majority of international long-haul dual-sporters still seem to ride Beemers. Enough of this, though. It could get ugly again. --rr ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Platinum plugs Date: 28 Nov 1998 16:39:37 PST >The NGK platinum plugs I run are the regular configuration. What is the advantage of platinum plugs that's worth the extra money? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 28 Nov 1998 19:53:26 EST In a message dated 11/28/98 3:13:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, Ztib@aol.com writes: << there are many supporters of each marque that simply enjoy that marque. >> I have to agree. I just had this conversation (last week) with my dad who is a 60 year-old BMW R1100RT rider, who travels at least 10,000 miles a year going to BMW/CMA rallies. I asked him what the response would be if I went with him next year to some of the BMW raliies on my KLR. He said most of the people he knows from the rallies probably would be interested rather than objecting to it. He said "Ya know son, it doesn't matter if you ride an old water buffalo (Old 2 stroke Suzuki triple), the important thing is that a person is a rider, not what they ride. I don't care what a guy is ridin'. The important thing is that it's a motorcycle." I used to think that my dad only liked BMW's and frowned at other types of bikes, but that was because I NEVER ASKED HIM WHAT HE THOUGHT. Turns out he doesn't even think about it much at all. There are probably a lot of BMW/H-D riders out there who feel the same way. Most Harley riders and Beemer riders I know prefer their brand of bike, but don't look down or slam others, unless they are ridiculed first.. The ones I know, can see the merits of many different brands/types of bikes and riding, just like me. After riding my KLR, my dad is even thinking of picking up a used Dual Sport sometime over the winter to go with his Beemer. I don't care what he gets. The thought of me and my 60 year-old dad going on DS rides together is enough to make me happy. Even if he doesn't get a DS bike, we'll still continue riding together. Him on his BMW R1100RT, and me on my KLR650......A German bike and a Japanese bike; a Tourer rider, and a Dual Sport rider, cruising along in harmony........In his own words, "The important thing is that it's a motorcycle!" Bill Swindle 98' KLR650 Montgomery, IL. P.S. There is a good article about this sort of thing in the latest issue of Rider magazine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) Bosch Plugs Date: 28 Nov 1998 20:10:56 -0500 I did notice the rather small wire and electrode surface and when priced at nearly $8.00 for the reg platinum plug and $22.50 for the 4+ model I quickly lost interest. It was that insulator and polished body I found so enthralling....like someone really put serious effort into making this plug look like a custom made, high end piece of componentry that you might find in an FIA F-1 racing tool bin. I stick with the standard NGK and have 0 problems. Jake Robert Morgan wrote: > > Jake > Look carefully at the construction of that Bosch plug. The platinum in that > ( those ) plug consists of a platinum wire that ends flush with the end of > the porcelain. The new 4 prong plug is the same configuration. It only > takes a pencil dot size of crud on top of that wire end to fowl the plug. > We have pulled hundreds of Bosch Platinum plugs out of Honda automobiles > where I work, because the car would not run. The NGK plugs listed as > Platinum (they come in our Prelude SI cars) are constructed in a > conventional configuration, only made of platinum. The're great. The're > also $24.oo apiece. Some aircraft plugs are also platinum.......way more > money (how much Skip?). When the Bosch Platinum plugs first came out 10 or > so years ago, my Bosch rep. gave me and all my techs. a box of plugs apiece. > Three days later they were all in the trash. I'm sure these plugs work in > something otherwise they wouldn't still be on the market, but they sure > didn't work very well in anything I ever ran! The other day a real slick ad > came across my desk from one of the auto trade magazines. It carried on and > on about increased PROFIT from an untapped market niche for these > plugs.............never once did they mention any claims of increased > performance. > Thats just one mechanics opinion. Good luck. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chadd Thompson Subject: Re: (klr650) KlR Instrument panel Date: 28 Nov 1998 22:01:55 -0600 At 01:29 PM 11/28/98 -0700, Tom Myers wrote: > >Also a GPS will provide lots of the same data and MORE but no total-mileage >odometer. > My Garmin GPS3 about $365 has a total milage odometer. I am not sure how many miles it will store but it does have it. If I were you I think that I would invest in the GPS3. It will give you a wealth of information. The only thing that it won't have is a Tach. I use mine more than I use my speedo, because it seems to be more accurate. Thanks Chadd Thompson chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: nocoffee@juno.com Subject: (klr650) (NKLR)Hooked on Maps... Date: 29 Nov 1998 08:02:30 -0800 The Sunday Cinci Enquirer has a map web page article written by Bill Husted with the Atlanta Journal-Constitution> I would assume that y'all are map freaks as am I.... The sites are: http://www.mapquest.com http://maps.altavista.com/cgi-bin.mapcgi http://www.aquarius.geomar.de/omc/ http://geog.ukans.edu/map.htm http://www.lib.utexas.edu/Libs/PCL/Map_collection/Map_collection.html http://icg.harvard.edu/~maps/ and, BTW, Happy Thanksgiving to all of ya' Norm from Florence (Kentucky, that is) ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Does this mean war? Date: 29 Nov 1998 05:49:05 PST I originally wrote: "I love the fact that it's not the "hip" thing-- it's mostly comprised of people who have nothing to prove in terms of fashion (Harley owners) or affluence (Beemer owners)." Which "provoked" the following posting: "Bullslhit. Plain and simple. The above is typical of the unknowledgable, a gross generalization... And, dual sport bikes do seem to be the current rage in cycling. And to the individual who authored the above, I forgive you. I know you are wiser then the statement you made about H-D and Beemer riders." And now for my rebuttal: Point #1. Relax, man. You may have just fallen prey to an evil design on my part to provoke some responses from a group of listers who have been a little "listless" (pardon the pun) as of late. My previous entry on safety vs. adventure didn't do the trick. It seems as though this one did, though... Point #2. Dual sport bikes the "current rage?" Where are they then? 'Cause I'm sure not seeing them (and I'm always looking!). Point #3. My observation regarding the Harley and Beemer owners was indeed a gross generalization. However, the point I was trying to make was that while you find the whole gamut of agendas in EVERY group, the notions of fashion and status figure into their group dynamic to a much greater extent than they do in ours. Just look at the content of their lists/newsletters as compared to ours (I have). The writing is on the wall. Only my opinion.... Point #4. Don't overestimate me. I'm not at all wise, and I'll be the first to say I'm unknowledgable. But I do know how to spell "bullshit" ;-) Take it easy, Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "El Lobo Solo" ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Does this mean war? Date: 29 Nov 1998 09:55:14 EST In a message dated 11/29/98 6:50:25 AM Mountain Standard Time, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: << Point #2. Dual sport bikes the "current rage?" Where are they then? 'Cause I'm sure not seeing them (and I'm always looking!). >> I must admit, this caught my eye in the previous post. Last year, scooters out sold dual sports for the first time in the US. The year before that, Honda sold more Foreman 300 ATVs that ALL dual sports combined! That doesn't sound like a rage to me. Things may be looking up, though. 1999 will have no less than 7 all new or completely redesigned dual sport models arriving on US shores. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Does this mean war? Date: 29 Nov 1998 10:00:35 EST In a message dated 11/29/98 6:50:25 AM Mountain Standard Time, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: << I know you are wiser then the statement you made about H-D and Beemer riders." >> A little BMW humor. DSN subscriber and all around good guy, Mike Stycek from Montreal, Canada won the long distance award at the BMW rally last summer. He was later stripped of his award when they discovered he rode a Triumph Tiger! So much for the "Why can't we all get along" argument. Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) (NKLR)Hooked on Maps... Date: 29 Nov 1998 08:17:55 -0800 Norm Yes, I am a map freak, here are two more sites for your collection. UC Berkeley and U of Georgia. The Berkeley site has the CIA map collection on line, in case you were planning some Counter Insurgency Activity! I didn't say that, I wasn't here. http://library.berkeley.edu/eart/ http://www.libs.uga.edu/maproom/ahtml/mcphi/.html Morgan, under cover Carlsbad Ca. (code name.....Skid Blam) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650)WAR Date: 29 Nov 1998 08:01:59 -0800 I love the smell of rhubarb in the morning........smells like pie! Morgan, Carlsbad Ca. (Is there any pie left?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650)WAR Date: 29 Nov 1998 08:01:59 -0800 I love the smell of rhubarb in the morning........smells like pie! Morgan, Carlsbad Ca. (Is there any pie left?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Diplomatic Efforts Save the Day.... Date: 29 Nov 1998 08:50:46 PST Jim Sprecker wrote: >Juan.. >I had once said the phrase "weanie's and want-a-be's" and was called a bigot >and closed minded just to mention a few of the remarks I got back. But I had >also recieved much support for speaking out. So many people don't want to >hear the truth, but they like to stay warm and comfortable in their state of >bliss..... >Jim. Thanks for the words, Jim. I'm happy to say that most of the responses I've seen have been very good natured and written in a humorous tone. Gino is in the process of brokering a peace deal between myself and the gentlemen from Canada who took issue with my original post. He's doing everything he can to recover from the beating he took in the polls after switching the KLR newsletter to an all dual-sports format... Don't worry Gino, we love you anyway (just watch out for those riding interns!)! Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (stirrin' the pot in Panama) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR Diplomatic Efforts Save the Day.... Date: 29 Nov 1998 10:48:46 -0700 > Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (stirrin' the pot in Panama) Juan, since you're in Panama, and admit to stirring the pot, I am reminded of the following, which could apply to us all at times, and I submit as nothing more than amusement.... No te metes en los asuntos de dragones, porque eres sabroso...... (Do not meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are tasty) - El Forastero ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rex Hefferan Subject: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 09:48:33 -0800 (PST) Listers, There was a disturbing report on the TV "News" show 20/20 (notice quotes). It implied that Mexico is a dangerous place to travel. I'd be interested in any responses from those of you who travel into Mexico for your advice to someone who has never been there. I'm just starting to research a visit for myself and wife. TIA Rex Colorado Springs _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck Subject: Re: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 11:22:41 -0700 (MST) On Sun, 29 Nov 1998, Rex Hefferan wrote: > Listers, > There was a disturbing report on the TV "News" show 20/20 (notice > quotes). It implied that Mexico is a dangerous place to travel. I'd be > interested in any responses from those of you who travel into Mexico > for your advice to someone who has never been there. I'm just starting > to research a visit for myself and wife. > TIA > Rex I have been down to Mexico twice this last year - in July was in Alamos, Sonora and then in October to Copper Canyon and did not have any problems. This is not to say things couldn't happen, one friend who has been going to Alamos for years has been robbed a couple of times, but the same thing happened to my sister-in-law in Chicago this past summer. I know there are a lot more people on this list who have been to Mexico more times than I have and can give you better advice, but I wouldn't worry about it too much. The things I thought helped were in both cases was travelling in a group and having someone along that spoke Spanish. Checking with locals about where to go and where not to go is a good idea, too. You don't want to stumble into someone's marijuana field. Good luck, continue your research and have fun! -Jeff Moorbeck '89 KLR 650 Tucson, AZ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? NKLR Date: 29 Nov 1998 14:03:47 EST On 11/29/98, jmoorbec@U.Arizona.EDU wrote: snip >...Checking with locals about where to go and >where not to go is a good idea, too. You don't want >to stumble into someone's marijuana field. Some listers may actually want to locate a pot field. Just be sure to clear the mine field first and be suitably armed. Don't forget your bong. Before anyone takes that serious, you should know that the Mexican government is more concerned with guns than they are about drugs smuggled into their country. A local was recently jailed for carrying guns on his boat that he had for defense against pirates in international waters. It took a concerted diplomatic effort to free him from his Mexican 'hosts'. I'll bet it would have been easier for him to 'buy' his freedom if he'd been carrying marijuana instead of guns. The most dangerous thing in Mexico is the attitude or thought that any rights you enjoy as a U.S. Citizen migrate across the border with you. When you're in their country you must respect their ways. Redondo (gun control means using both hands) Ron ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) (nklr)Dragon fodder... Date: 29 Nov 1998 12:09:19 PST >No te metes en los asuntos de dragones, porque eres sabroso...... (Do not >meddle in the affairs of dragons, for you are tasty) >- El Forastero Is that better than being a bad apple? Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Does this mean war? Date: 29 Nov 1998 12:11:04 PST > << Point #2. Dual sport bikes the "current rage?" Where are they > then? 'Cause I'm sure not seeing them (and I'm always looking!). >> >I must admit, this caught my eye in the previous post. Same here. A few years ago, when I lived in Pennsylvania, it was unusual to see a dual sport bigger than a 250, and even those were rare. In the five years I rode my Yamaha XT550, I think I saw one other XT, and that was a 250. Out here on the left coast, in the SF Bay area, duals are a bit more common. During the summer, "crotch rockets" (racing style bikes) and touring types are equally abundant, with the duals making up about 20% of the mix. Now that the cool season has set in (what the locals call "winter", though I don't consider 50 degree days to be "winter"), most of the bikes are parked. However, I see as many duals as ever; maybe half of the bikes on the road now are duals. What does this bit of info indicate? Either: Touring and racing bike riders tend to be pleasure riders, while dual riders use their bikes as a "second car". (Duals are usually cheaper than racing/touring bikes.) -OR- Dual riders are tougher (crazier??)... a little cold and rain doesn't dissuade us.. Of course, this is just casual observation; no scientific value. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) (NKLR) Travels to Mexico Date: 29 Nov 1998 12:20:45 PST > The most dangerous thing in Mexico is the attitude or > thought that any rights you enjoy as a U.S. Citizen > migrate across the border with you. When you're in > their country you must respect their ways. Truer words could not have been spoken. I've been everywhere from Iceland to Australia and feel confident in saying that almost anyplace can be made safe (or dangerous) depending on one's attitude and personal conduct. Courtesy, restraint, and TACT (not a strong point of us Americans) will buy you easy passage to anywhere you want to go. So go ahead and enjoy yourself. Blending in Panama, Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) Does this mean war? Date: 29 Nov 1998 22:43:31 +0200 ><< I know you are wiser then the > statement you made about H-D and Beemer riders." >> > > >Gino Pals, There always exists a better than "The Best" ! Here in between the listers' cyberspace we are all known to be in love with our KLRs. We never mind if a BMW or Tiger is better than Ours. A man (humankind) likes many but love a few and lives with only one. Sometimes the number you live with rises a bit but you try to make each of them feel "The one and only". Go out to the streets and you see many men and women that are at a higher quality and quantity than yourselves and your possessions. Never let this to worry you. You live in your own atmosphere. Comparison is a challenge and a kind of gambling. I don't think that our list is an arena but is a church of KLR sect of motorcycle religion. So as everybody knows, beliefs are not for discussion. We don't need any hostile thoughts on any brand or type of bike. If you have some words to say about KLR tell it, any questions are welcomed and will be answered. We don't condemn other bikes and don't we let anybody curse our bikes. We want peace, friendship and knowledge in our list. Don't we? Birol Say, M.D. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: (klr650) On a brighter note (NKLR) Date: 29 Nov 1998 16:07:43 EST If your local community has motorcycle toy run, please participate. There are many kids who will not get toys this year. In addition to a toy, take a can of food and a toiletry also, there is much need for those items also. Ride your dual sport! Gino ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 15:08:25 -0700 Rex, TV reports of dangers of Mexico? IMHO... 1. TV itself is disturbing, which is why I don't own one. 2. I used to live in Mexico, and I have ridden a bike the entire length of the country. I would hesitate to do so again. But then, I probably wouldn't chose to live in California again, either. 3. Some parts of Mexico are arguably more dangerous than others. (Duh). No surprises. Just as in most countries. Much of Mexico City has begun to resemble Miami, except the cops in Mexico are a little bit more of the problem than the solution. Chiapas state has been a nightmare in past years, and no amount of tact and diplomacy will save you Pollyanna types from a rebel roadblock designed to relieve you of the cash needed to carr= y on their revolution. (Remember that "Mexico" is an old Indian word meaning, "let's fight about something."). The Chiapas rebels are being assisted by American leftists, by the way. 4. I have always been able to talk or buy my way out of trouble. So far. But I think that my immunity has expired. 5. For an average American, Mexico poses unusual conditions leading to hazards: the national tendency to accept drunkenness, the abominable condition of many roads (worse than Colorado, if you can believe that) an= d lack of adequate road signage and vehicle requirements (like brakes and lights), and the culturally embedded practice of corrupt officials - including police - feeding off the populace and visitors. 6. See US State Dept warnings at http://travel.state.gov/mexico.html 7. But hey, don't take my word for it: The following is a summary of relevant recent State Dept warnings: Travelers to Mexico should exercise caution when traveling on all highway= s in Mexico. Of specific concern are Highway 190 (Tuxtla to Tapachula), Highway 195 (Tuxtla to Villahermosa), Highway 186 (Chetumal to Villahermosa), Highway 15 (Sinaloa), Express Highway 1 (Sinaloa), and the highway from Altamirano t= o Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. These highways have seen particularly high levels of criminal assaults recently. Reported incident= s include robbery, kidnapping and the 1998 murder of an Egyptian diplomat. The U.S. Embassy advises its personnel to exercise extreme caution and not to travel on Mexican highways after dark for safety reasons. Taxicab Crime: U.S. citizens visiting Mexico City should absolutely avoid taking any taxi not summoned by telephone or on their behalf by a responsible individual or contracted in advance at the airport. Robbery assaults on passengers in taxis have become more frequent and violent, with passengers subjected to beatings and sexual assault. In December 1997, a U.S. citizen was murdered in a taxi robbery. Crime continues at 1997's high levels. In Mexico City, crime has reached critical levels. Low apprehension and conviction rates of criminals contribute to the high rate of crime. Metropolitan areas other than the capital are considered to have lower but still serious levels of crime activity. Travelers to Mexico should leave valuables and irreplaceable items in a safe place. All visitors to Mexico are encouraged to make use of hotel safes when available, avoid wearing obviously expensive jewelry or designer clothing, and carry only the cash or credit cards that will be needed on each outing. Travelers are discouraged from bringing very large amount= s of cash into Mexico, as officials may suspect money laundering or other criminal activity. During 1998, criminal activity in Mexico City continued at 1996 and 1997's high rates, with marked increase in the level of violence of the crimes committed, including what appears to be a significant incidence of sexual assaults in crimes committed against women. The most frequently reported crimes involve taxi robberies, armed robbery, pickpocketing and purse snatching. In several cases, tourists report that uniformed police are the crime perpetrators, stopping vehicles and seekin= g money or assaulting and robbing tourists walking late at night. The area behind the U.S. Embassy and the Zona Rosa, a restaurant/shopping area nea= r the Embassy, are frequent sites of street crime against foreigners. Caution should be exercised when walking in these areas, especially at night. U.S. citizens should be very cautious in using ATM cards and machines in Mexico. If an ATM machine must be used, it should be only during the business day at large protected facilities (preferably inside commercial establishments, rather than at a glass-enclosed, highly visible ATM machine on streets where criminal= s can observe financial transactions.) U.S. citizens are advised to be careful when ordering beverages in local nightclubs and bars, especially at night. Some establishments may contaminate or drug the drinks to gain control over th= e patron. Victims, who are almost always unaccompanied, have been robbed of personal property and abducted and hel= d while their credit cards were used at various businesses and ATM locations around the city. Kidnapping, including the kidnapping of non-Mexicans, is increasing. U.S. businesses with offices in Mexico or concerned U.S. citizens may contact the U.S. Embassy to discuss precautions to take. Security in Chiapas: The Embassy strongly recommends that American citizens traveling to Chiapas exercise extreme caution. The Mexican military has reestablished authority in rural towns and villages in the State of Chiapas. However, there is still an armed rebel presence in more remote mountainous areas of the state. The situation remains unstable and in a number of areas local conflicts have resulted in violence, such as the December 1997 massacre at Acteal, in which 45 Mexican nationals were killed. Increasing resentment against foreigners b= y some segments of the local population has resulted in cases of extreme hostility and occasional assaults. etc etc etc ------ That's enough. I think you get the idea. Until the Mexican government gets its act together, I would not support the regime with American dollars spent there. But if you do go, and run into a tight spot, just be emotionally prepared to give up anything you have with you to save your lives. Dr Robert Black Forest CO (Siempre metiendome en los asuntos de dragones, llegu=E9 a ser viejo ante= s de llegar a ser sabio). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 29 Nov 1998 14:37:11 -0800 I had to weigh-in on this thread. I've ridden my Harley to three major BMW ralleys (including this year's international in Missoula) and have never felt unwelcome because of the brand of bike I ride. Any responses I received are positive or simply curious. The only part of the rallies where brand becomes an issue is during the field events where I'm told that "brand X" machines are not eligible for prizes, but during the events in Missoula, there were riders on bikes of many different brands and they were all cheered on enthusiastically by the crowd. Personally I like diversity in all things and particularly in this great sport of motorcycling. While I know that there are people who get too wrapped up in brands or countries of origin, I try to associate myself with riders who don't. I'm looking forward to attending a large gathering with the KLR riders on this list along with their friends on other brands of machines. I enjoy all marques and types of motorcycles and wish I could own at least one of each, but cameraderie is where it's at for me. Life's too short for attitudes. Darrel SoCal 98KLR650 89FLHS ******************************************** > Bill Swindle wrote: > In a message dated 11/28/98 3:13:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, Ztib@aol.com > writes: > > << there are many supporters of each marque that > simply enjoy that marque. >> > > I have to agree. I just had this conversation (last week) with my dad who is a > 60 year-old BMW R1100RT rider, who travels at least 10,000 miles a year going > to BMW/CMA rallies. I asked him what the response would be if I went with him > next year to some of the BMW raliies on my KLR. He said most of the people he > knows from the rallies probably would be interested rather than objecting to > it. He said "Ya know son, it doesn't matter if you ride an old water buffalo > (Old 2 stroke Suzuki triple), the important thing is that a person is a rider, > not what they ride. I don't care what a guy is ridin'. The important thing is > that it's a motorcycle." > I used to think that my dad only liked BMW's and frowned at other types of > bikes, but that was because I NEVER ASKED HIM WHAT HE THOUGHT. Turns out he > doesn't even think about it much at all. There are probably a lot of BMW/H-D > riders out there who feel the same way. Most Harley riders and Beemer riders I > know prefer their brand of bike, but don't look down or slam others, unless > they are ridiculed first.. The ones I know, can see the merits of many > different brands/types of bikes and riding, just like me. > **************************** ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 14:49:25 -0800 Rex I live not far from the border. In times past I spent considerable time there, camping, boating, goofing. I still go there, but not as often. Not so much as a result of any specific incident, more a matter of maturity perhaps (did I just say that? whoa!). I am not willing to take the same risks I used to (hang gliding, scuba diving, teasing married women). The political climate there has changed in the last decade. The people are fabulous, the culture, the art, AND THE CUISINE, are incredible. What my lister amigos Ron and Juan had to say is right on the money. GUNS are a real NO NO, and tact and diplomacy and 5 bucks will resolve just about anything. Mexican insurance is a must. A command of the language is preferred ( no that semester in high school is not adequate). Be prepared. Here is a great book. "The people's guide to Backpacking, Boating, and Camping in Mexico" written by Carl Franz. Its published by John Muir Publications (he is the guy that wrote the VW Idiot Book for you old hippies like me). I'm sure there are newer books on the subject but this one is a great read even if you never go. Here is my little bit of advice for the pile. "If you drive at night in Baja sooner or later you will hit a cow!!!!!" This sounds so stupid but is so true. Fencing is expensive in Mexico (as are most building materials) so Jose Ranchero doesn't fence his land. The asphalt retains heat, the cows stand on the road at night to stay warm ( and sleep). Blamo! Your fault, I don't know what would be worse the third world medical care or judicial system. Also if you carry a fish hook in your survival gear you better have a Mexican fishing license. Another hassle is the fuel, Pemex has some of the worlds newest refineries, Mexico has some of the worst gas stations, its not uncommon to have h2o in the gas, we used to strain it through a chamois when in doubt. On the bright side Mexicans can fix anything with almost nothing. They are a very resourceful people. Have fun, be careful, go prepared. Morgan Carlsbad, Ca. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Rottenberg Subject: (klr650) Spanish anyone ? NKLR Date: 29 Nov 1998 18:10:37 -0500 It's the second mistake I catch today and I've got to give y'all my $.02 U r thinking as a gringo. Thinking in english. It happens to me all the time, when I think in spanish and translate it to english and make the sa= me mistakes. "Metiendome siempre en los asuntos de dragones ....... " is the correct w= ay "No te metas en los asuntos de dragones ...." instead of "No te metes en los asuntos..." Hope I helped and didn't piss anybody off. :-) >Dr Robert >Black Forest CO >(Siempre metiendome en los asuntos de dragones, llegu=E9 a ser viejo ant= es >de llegar a ser sabio). Esteban (Que naci=F3 y vivi=F3 22 de sus 29 a=F1os de edad en un pa=EDs d= e habla hispana) Steve in Tampa 98 B12 95 KLR 650 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 15:41:22 PST >There was a disturbing report on the TV "News" show 20/20 (notice >quotes). It implied that Mexico is a dangerous place to travel. Mexico CAN be dangerous. So can New York City. (In much the same way, actually.) My trips into Mexico have been solely to Tijuana. There are parts of this town that I won't even go through at night. (Sort of like Central Park.) I've been in the shopping district until about 10 PM or so with no problems. (Other than the hour wait to get back across the border... ) This is just my views of one border town (a tourist trap for rich gringos); it's undoubtedly different farther into the country. One thing to keep in mind... the US Constitution does NOT apply to people in Mexico! Just take it easy, stay out of fights, and don't slap a policeman! ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) Dual Sport or Utility? Date: 29 Nov 1998 16:23:41 -0800 What does this bit of info indicate? Either: Touring and racing bike riders tend to be pleasure riders, while dual riders use their bikes as a "second car". (Duals are usually cheaper than racing/touring bikes.) ************************************ Probably an accurate assumption. The utilitarian aspect of dual sporting is one that is in practice here in the U.S., but to a greater extent, I think, in European countries and other places where fuel prices and other factors like road surfaces, make the dual sport bikes a practical choice. This is my opinion as to why DS bikes don't sell as well in the States as in other markets. Darrel, A12 (out of the closet Harley rider) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) 20/20 "dangers of travel in Mexico" Date: 29 Nov 1998 19:41:50 -0500 A number of people on the KLR650 LIST have expressed some concern over the safety of travel in Mexico as a result of the Saturday night show, 20/20. This TV show is a respected forum for many issues of the day. In this case I feel they did not accurately portray the "Travel In Mexico" experience. I have traveled over six months in the last four years in Mexico on my bike and I am also associated with and know many others who have traveled for many years in Mexico without incident! Pancho Vill Moto Tours has been taking motorcyclists to Mexico for over 15 years without incident. First, let us dispel the myth of the armed "Banditos" with crossed belts and wide brimmed hats! This is a myth. The dangers 20/20 are talking about are those same segments of society all countries have - the desperate, poor, and those mis-fits who find it easier to be criminals then law abiding citizens. The reality of crime in Mexico is the same reality we have here in the USA! Lets get the common rebuttal we often hear about how dangerous it is in the USA and all other countries in the world. This statistical approach is not meant to excuse or lessen the reality of crime in Mexico and other countries but to add some perspective! We have all heard about the German tourists killed in Miami because they took a wrong turn off the Interstate. Florida now has 24 hour security at their Interstate rest areas. New York City averages 14 killings each 24 hour period! Atlanta city Police will stop you if you are in a car and heading toward the "bad part of town." They advise you you are heading into a zone that the police won't even enter! My small southern town of Columbus, Georgia has a downtown that is basically "up for grabs" if you go there! The argument that we have as much crime as they do is valid but does not address the issue. Let's get back to Mexico (you could enter the name of any country and be just as accurate) The 20/20 report focused on Mexico City, a tourist beach resort and one example of a lone female on a deserted beach. Could this just as well have been South Chicago, Cony Island, and Central Park? Mexico City is the largest and one of the poorest cities in the world. There is a class of people there who are in absolute poverty and despair! They have a police department that is considered one of the most corrupt in the world. Would this not lead to a place that one should view with caution? Could not 20/20 not go to South LA and find the same situation? Point here is, yes, parts of Mexico City would not be considered safe. Crime happens! Taxi cabs are known to prey on visitors to the city. My advice - don't go to Mexico City and wonder around on your own if you don't know where you are going or what you are doing - I don't go to Atlanta after dark! The incident of the lone female on the beach is certainly tragic but not necessarily unheard of any place else in the world. There were two foreign females raped in Yellowstone National Park last year. The one area that we have to all consider when traveling to a foreign country is that we do not have the same Constitutional Rights we enjoy here and we can not always expect that law enforcement in foreign countries are going to be as responsive to citizens as they are here (in most cases). If you are counting on our Embassies to look after your every problem you are in for a big surprise! Our Embassies, by and large, are looking after the bigger interest of the USA and that particular country. It is true, they really don't get too excited about your problems! Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras are fantastic places to visit and ride in. These are beautiful countries, full of history, culture, and warm and friendly people! I have never been even close to feeling threatened in any of these countries. Just the opposite, the people are very helpful and interested in you. The main rules I follow while in a foreign country is to be low key, act with very good manners, be considerate, and show that you are interested in their country and their culture. When traveling in Mexico we generally are off the tourist routes, stay in small towns, and behave ourselves. Smile, shake hands with anyone you talk with, be low key and try to speak the language! If going into a large city for the evening, I like to head directly to the historical district, normally near the Plaza, get a hotel and hang around the Plaza with the families and general population. Don't hang around the bars all night, stay away from the "bad sections" and generally be very conservative in your actions. We seldom walk around alone - just common sense. Know where you are and where you are going. Have a plan. Know one drives at night! Period. I mean Americans, not the locals. The danger is not that the night brings out all the criminals, they just don't believe in driving with their lights on - for some reason the Mexicans think that the lights wears their battery down! So, they don't generally turn them on! So, let me finish this up with some advice: Know where you are going and use good common sense. Stay in the central Plaza area of towns (these are the family areas and well protected) Maybe stay at least in groups of two or more if out at night. There is not much more to say - act as you would in your own town. Don't let a TV show stop you from experiencing other cultures and countries. After all, we do call this thing we do "adventure touring!" Just like riding a motorcycle - we accept a little more risk then others - we accept risk when we go beyond our living room couch - so let's go - Via Mexico! Bill ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Supertrapp IDS Update....650 miles and counting Date: 29 Nov 1998 19:41:16 EST Well.......To all who had questions, I haven't gotten the jet kit and filter yet (Maybe Christmas), but I have put about 500 more miles on the new IDS Quiet pipe. Everything seems to be working perfectly. The paperwork that came with it, says that it will turn a "goldish color" after using it for a while. I have noticed this is starting to happen now; especially on the end cap and turn-down tip. It is definitely changing color faster than the rest of the pipe. Looks good though. Haven't had any plastic melting to speak of, but I am keeping a close eye on the space between the pipe and the right side panel, and underneath where the S-pipe gets very close to the black plastic Been running 7 discs, as the paperwork suggests that 6-8 is good for stock jetting. The bike sounds much better now, and have ridden with my sport-bike buddies with no more jokes about lawnmowers. Actually everybody likes the sound now, which is a major change. I don't care what they think anyway, but it is nice to get complements, instead of ridicule. I don't know about the whole "Loud pipes save lives" thing, but I do know that people look at me a lot more know when I pull up beside them, or into a gas station. Hey...maybe it's just cuz' I REV THE BIKE MORE TO HEAR THAT THUMPA sound???? Anyway, to all who had questions- nothing has melted, rattled loose (Carlos), or fallen off yet; and my mileage (Alex) is right at about 50mpg riding fairly hard (Many long first gear wheelies too!) with stock jetting. Not much of a drop....If any. I know I'd get a little better mileage if I could just stay off the gas. WARNING - It's hard to ride slow when you wanna hear your new pipe! ALEX you are warned now! So when if you get one, your mileage will drop a little, cuz I know you'll do the same thing as me!!! Hey Kenny....How's the new Cobra and jet kit going??? Let us know... Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: omegacolor@sssnet.com Subject: (klr650) loss of power Date: 29 Nov 1998 20:41:50 -0800 Hopped on the highway the other day, was cruising along at 75 mph (Dry sunny - about 50 F) when I abruptly began to lose power and couldn't get any power above 4k or about 55 to 60 MPH. Finished the 50 mile trip, then checked and cleaned the air filter, pulled the plug (had some carbon build-up probably due to running with choke - seemed to help a very slight bit) - cleaned the s plug and reinstalled. Took it for a spin - same effect. I suppose I'll have to be systematic about this, but was hoping the KLR collective could point me in the right direction as to where to begin looking. Here are the particulars... - A3 - 9K miles - No previous problems in the last 1500 miles since I've owned - No recent valve adjustments or knowledge of any in it's history - Half a tank of gas - Stock carburation - No inline fuel filter (yet) Clogged jet? Valves? Something really drastic? Thanks. Scott Warstler, OH (in desperate need of *more power*) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 29 Nov 1998 20:54:15 -0500 At 02:37 PM 11/29/98 -0800, Darrel & Deanna wrote: >I had to weigh-in on this thread. I've ridden my Harley to three major BMW >ralleys (including this year's international in Missoula) and have never >felt unwelcome because of the brand of bike I ride. Any responses I >received are positive or simply curious. >The only part of the rallies where brand becomes an issue is during the >field events where I'm told that "brand X" machines are not eligible for >prizes, but during the events in Missoula, there were riders on bikes of >many different brands and they were all cheered on enthusiastically by the >crowd. I have ridden my KLR to more BMW rallys than anywere else out of town. They have been universaly accepting and a number of them either own KLRs for commuting or weekend play (reserving the GS or other BMW for long-distance work). I will have my R60/7 on the road for this spring and the primary question in choosing between the two will be, "Does the event have a GS-oriented dual sport ride?" If so (as in the case of N.Georgia and the GSI rally at Turkey Toms in NC, it will be the KLR, where it will be alternatly admired and rarely alone. A decent GS ride that is "Oilhead-friendly" is a relativly gentile ride in the country on a KLR. Otherwise, I'll break out the ole' Airhead. :) -Tom '96 KLR 650 31,100 miles '77 R60/7 ? miles (showing 23,000) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Tom Myers Subject: Re: (klr650) loss of power Date: 29 Nov 1998 19:51:38 -0700 Sounds like it's starving for fuel. Here's the first and easiest. Next time it loses power, loosen the gas cap. If power returns, then your fuel vent system is not letting air in. If that doesn't solve the problem, it sounds like your main jet is plugged or restricted. The first and easiest check is to look for water in the bowl. Water can 'plug' a mainjet. Remove the large 'plug' on the bottom of the carb. This 'plug' is like a little cup. Be careful not to dump out this little sample of floatbowl gas. If you remove it carefully you can LOOK into it as you carefully dump it out into a paper towel and see if there WAS water or other crud in there. Knowing what the problem WAS is almost as important as having the bike run good again. Knowing that you **found the problem** makes it much easier to jump on the bike and head out without worry. All modern motorcycles have pretty fine filters built into the gas petcock. Installing another filter is rarely a "given" solution as it makes some but not a lot of sense to filter "filtered" gas. Big singles have a high carburetor, and a lowslung gas tank, a bad combination for fuel-flow that can be exacerbated by adding the restriction of a 2nd filter. The BMW F650, for example will starve (at highspeed with less than half-tank) if you add a filter. On that I'd have to defer to someone who has realworld experience in running a KLR at high-speed **and** low fuel levels at the same time. I personally wouldn't install a 2nd filter unless you're often finding crud in the bottom of your carb "plug" proving that the petcock filter is insufficient. A better solution, at least here in the USA, is to stop letting so much crud into your gas tank. Those filters can be a pain on a short fuel line. If they're big enough to flow OK then they just seem to get in the way. If they're small enough to "not be a pain" they are no better than the petcock filter. Anything that gets thru the petcock filter is magnitudes smaller than the mainjet and sucks right thru anyway. If that doesn't solve it the next step is to remove, inspect and clean the carburetor. This is a little bit too complicated for email. Possible there is a spark problem, but those usually show up in hard starting, not solely highspeed power loss. Hope it was one of the two 'easy' solutions. Tom =============================== >Hopped on the highway the other day, was cruising along at 75 mph >(Dry sunny - about 50 F) >when I abruptly began to lose power and couldn't get any power >above 4k or about 55 to 60 MPH. Finished the 50 mile trip, then >checked and cleaned the air filter, pulled the plug (had some >carbon build-up probably due to running with choke - seemed to >help a very slight bit) - cleaned the s plug and reinstalled. >Took it for a spin - same effect. > >I suppose I'll have to be systematic about this, but was hoping the >KLR collective could point me in the right direction as to where to >begin looking. > >Here are the particulars... >- A3 >- 9K miles >- No previous problems in the last 1500 miles since I've owned >- No recent valve adjustments or knowledge of any in it's history >- Half a tank of gas >- Stock carburation >- No inline fuel filter (yet) > >Clogged jet? Valves? Something really drastic? > >Thanks. > >Scott Warstler, OH (in desperate need of *more power*) +------------------------------------+ | CycoActive Products tel (206) 323-2349 | 701 34th Ave fax (206) 325-6016 | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | webpage: http://www.cycoactive.com | e-mail: TomMyers@cycoactive.com +------------------------------------+ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) loss of power Date: 29 Nov 1998 22:01:23 EST On 11/29/98, omegacolor@sssnet.com wrote: snip >...I abruptly began to lose power and couldn't get any power >above 4k....checked and cleaned the air filter, cleaned the >s plug and reinstalled. Took it for a spin - same effect. Abrupt loss of power....start with the easy stuff first. Sometime back a fellow lister posted trouble with an old vacuum hose that would collapse above a certain rpm causing a loss of power. Replacing the hose cured his ills. Hopefully you get that lucky. If not.... Check tank vent by riding with cap slightly open. All hoses connected to tank, carb, (and canister if CA model) in working order. No cracks in the carb boots and clamps attached. Check float level. At the same time you can view the gas sample in the clear tube for water or impurities. Try a different tank of gas. Even if one of these cures the problem, I'd still check the engine valves since you aren't sure when or if they've ever been checked. Next would be a detailed inspection and cleaning of the carb. Even then it could end up being a defective CDI unit, build up on the engine valve seats or....the list goes on. Redondo Ron - and the beat goes on - thump, thump, thump ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Another viewpoint on the War.... Date: 29 Nov 1998 22:05:49 EST On this whole war thing......Let's view this from another angle...... If you ask me....10 out of 10 sportbike riders I know, who only own sportbikes, are the ones who I have seen and heard generalizing and slamming other types of bike riders. I KNOW THEY ALL AREN"T THAT WAY, but all the ones I know well are (Except one guy, who owns a 98' Katana 750, a 98' Vulcan 1500, a Nighthawk 250, and a KDX200). The others don't understand why anybody would want to ride anything but a sportbike.They refuse to relate to me selling my sportbike and buying a dual-sport. Mind you, these are guys that don't own more than one bike; are in their late twenties/early thirties; and love running 140 mph out in the country. In talking to them, they can't understand why anybody would want a bike that can't do 140 mph or more. Their whole thing is speed and handling. That's why it is so fun to smoke them on curvy roads out in the country sometimes on the KLR! I've read several pure-sportbike magazines that promote this type of attitude, which I guess is anybody's right, but doesn't do much to promote our cause as motorcyclists. Most of these guys have had several tickets (speeding/wreckless driving) just this summer, and haven't dropped it yet. After you crash bad on the street, I have learned from experience that attitudes can change veeeerrry quickly. Still, whoever said that there is an obvious bias in some of the mags (I think Juan), is right on in my book. Some type-specific magazines are responsible for promoting attitude just as much as any other group of people. It's fun to mess with people about their bike choice sometimes, even part of the comraderie of riders. Hey, I joke with people about their not being able to go off-road every once in a while, they joke with me about my big DIRT-BIKE not being able to do much over 100 mph! The problem comes in when real nasty Judgement comes into the picture; and an unfriendly attitude toward other types of riders. At the in-laws Thanksgiving dinner the other night, a Sport-bike rider and some Harley riders and I were talking about riding. The sportbike rider was saying horrible things about these peoples' bikes which they had spent much money on, and there was nothing wrong with the bikes; they loved their bikes! It got kinda ugly, but the Harley riders' belief in Harleys sure wasn't changed, they just didn't talk to the guy anymore, and he was the one that went away with the attitude. We just kept on talkin' bikes the rest of the night! I don't know if we can "all" ever get along; I doubt it, but it sure is nice when riders can relate without having to ride the same type of bike.. Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Rex Hefferan Subject: (klr650) Re: [NKLR] Mexico travel dangers? Date: 29 Nov 1998 20:11:51 -0800 (PST) Thanks all, for the responses that came and those that may yet. I agree with Bill Haycock and others that you can't rely on the media to represent a subject objectively. I expected the responses to characterize the dangers pretty much as they did. It reminds me of the tragic shooting of the Japanese guy 2 or 3 years ago and the reporting in the Japanese media that in the U.S. shootings of that type are very common. It's a matter of perspectives and I needed some of yours' to help develop our comfort level. We haven't decided to cross the border yet, but this trip we were only planning to go as far as Puerto Penasco anyway. BTW our son is engaged to a girl from Nogales, Mexico and we expect the wedding to be held there. So we'll be stepping across the border for that. Rex (sorry Kurt, I forgot to use NKLR the first time) Colorado Springs _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) Another viewpoint on the War.... Date: 29 Nov 1998 23:29:00 -0500 My surfing buddies used to engage in the longboard/shortboard melee constantly (I'm a longboarder), my sailing friends butt heads about racing vs. cruising (I'm a cruiser), and my neighbors disagree on push vs. self propelled vs. riding lawn mowers (I push). In the end, we usually spent more time discussing what we would rather be doing and doing less of what we were discussing. I'm thru discussing and you can all heave a collective sigh of good riddance now. Jake, befuddled by his own analogy. VFR754@aol.com wrote: > > On this whole war thing......Let's view this from another angle...... > > If you ask me....10 out of 10 sportbike riders I know, who only own > sportbikes, are the ones who I have seen and heard generalizing and slamming > other types of bike riders. I KNOW THEY ALL AREN"T THAT WAY, but all the ones > I know well are (Except one guy, who owns a 98' Katana 750, a 98' Vulcan 1500, > a Nighthawk 250, and a KDX200). The others don't understand why anybody would > want to ride anything but a sportbike.They refuse to relate to me selling my > sportbike and buying a dual-sport. > Mind you, these are guys that don't own more than one bike; are in their > late twenties/early thirties; and love running 140 mph out in the country. In > talking to them, they can't understand why anybody would want a bike that > can't do 140 mph or more. Their whole thing is speed and handling. That's why > it is so fun to smoke them on curvy roads out in the country sometimes on the > KLR! > > I've read several pure-sportbike magazines that promote this type of > attitude, which I guess is anybody's right, but doesn't do much to promote our > cause as motorcyclists. Most of these guys have had several tickets > (speeding/wreckless driving) just this summer, and haven't dropped it yet. > After you crash bad on the street, I have learned from experience that > attitudes can change veeeerrry quickly. > Still, whoever said that there is an obvious bias in some of the mags (I > think Juan), is right on in my book. Some type-specific magazines are > responsible for promoting attitude just as much as any other group of people. > > It's fun to mess with people about their bike choice sometimes, even part of > the comraderie of riders. Hey, I joke with people about their not being able > to go off-road every once in a while, they joke with me about my big DIRT-BIKE > not being able to do much over 100 mph! The problem comes in when real nasty > Judgement comes into the picture; and an unfriendly attitude toward other > types of riders. > > At the in-laws Thanksgiving dinner the other night, a Sport-bike rider and > some Harley riders and I were talking about riding. The sportbike rider was > saying horrible things about these peoples' bikes which they had spent much > money on, and there was nothing wrong with the bikes; they loved their bikes! > It got kinda ugly, but the Harley riders' belief in Harleys sure wasn't > changed, they just didn't talk to the guy anymore, and he was the one that > went away with the attitude. We just kept on talkin' bikes the rest of the > night! I don't know if we can "all" ever get along; I doubt it, but it sure > is nice when riders can relate without having to ride the same type of bike.. > > Bill Swindle > A12 > Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Another viewpoint on the War.... Date: 30 Nov 1998 01:46:40 EST In a message dated 11/29/98 8:26:51 PM Pacific Standard Time, klr650@bellsouth.net writes: << In the end, we usually spent more time discussing what we would rather be doing and doing less of what we were discussing. I'm thru discussing and you can all heave a collective sigh of good riddance now. >> DITTO.................Let's go find some Harley/Beemer/Sportbike/Moped/Dual Sport/Triumph/Cruiser/Tourer/Standard Riders and GO RiDIN'!!!!!!! IT's 65 degrees here in Northern Illinois at the end of November! WHODATHUNKIT????? Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. (Or is this Hawaii?) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com Subject: (klr650) RE: IDS Update Date: 30 Nov 1998 07:16:33 -0500 >500 more miles on the new IDS Quiet pipe. Everything seems to be >working perfectly. I have a tad over 4,000 miles. Everything is still perfect! >The paperwork that came with it, says that it will turn a "goldish >color". I have noticed this is starting to happen now; especially on >the end cap and turn-down tip. My end cap turned gold, but the rest of the pipe is still the same nice silver color. The 'gold' on my end cap is starting to peel off and turn black. Not a concern for me. >Haven't had any plastic melting to speak of, No melting for me and I don't expect any. I am running 8 disc. MPG is about 50. I like the pipe; it is tiny bit louder and a lot lighter. However, I did not notice a performance gain. Pat Austin, TX - Adventure is never fun while it is happening. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com Subject: (klr650) NKRL: Lights at Night Date: 30 Nov 1998 07:16:31 -0500 Bill wrote: >>>>> The danger is not that the night brings out all the criminals, they just don't believe in driving with their lights on - for some reason the Mexicans think that the lights wears their battery down! So, they don't generally turn them on! <<<<< I have traveled in Mexico/South America from Tijuanna to Ushuaia and can't for the life of me figure out why an entire region that is mechanically smart as a whip and can fix anything universally agrees that lights on equals battery down. Like Bill, I enjoy talking to the locals. If in conversation you mention that at your home (US) they use lights at night and ask why they do not use them you will universally get "the battery answer" or "we just don't need them". At this point I always act as if this practice is a great idea. (see Bill's comments on blending in with the environment) In contrast, I spent one day (so maybe this is not a good observation) in Poland where they used lights in the day, but not at light. Pat Austin, TX (the differences are what makes travel great) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) Thanks Date: 30 Nov 1998 05:26:30 PST >Juan, >Well said. That guy was too uptight >Tom Tom, Thanks for the compliment. I'm thinking about posting another e-mail laying out, in BIG, BLACK LETTERS, the rationale behind my original message. I assume that most Harley riders really do love their bikes, and that most Beemer owners appreciate the fine workmanship. It's the posers and the status-seekers I can't stand, and it's my belief (and ONLY my belief, folks), that they suffer a disproportionate number of said nitwits within their ranks. That's all I was trying to say, and then you get all this ruckus. So much for an open forum, huh? I apologize, everyone. Back to the subject of motor oil... Juan Villarreal, '97 (the dead messenger) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Thanks Date: 30 Nov 1998 09:28:23 EST << In a message dated 11/30/98 5:31:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, villarrealjuan@hotmail.com writes: << So much for an open forum, huh? I apologize, everyone. Back to the subject of motor oil... Juan Villarreal, '97 (the dead messenger) >> Juan, Why did you apologize? Did you get a bunch of private e-mail from people blasting you or something? I didn't think anything you said was out of line; I can see the viewpoint from both angles, and then some. Sometimes no matter what we post regarding our viewpoints on things, there is always gonna be disagreement. Keep posting your viewpoints anyway!!! That's part of what this LIST is supposed to be about, isn't it? Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Roy Cope Subject: (klr650) Dual Star centerstand Date: 30 Nov 1998 08:41:43 -0700 There was a posting a while back about a interference problem between the crossbar of the Dual Star centerstand and the bottom of the crankcase. I finally got around to checking mine, and discovered that the bottom of the crankcase was resting against the edge of the crossbar of the centerstand. I removed the centerstand and with my Dremel hand held grinder I made a notch maybe 3/32'' deep by about 1" long along the edge of the crossbar in the center, now the crossbar no longer makes contact with the crankcase. If you have a Dual Star centerstand check for clearance between the crossbar and the crankcase I think you will find that there is none. Roy Cope 96KLR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star centerstand Date: 30 Nov 1998 10:34:53 -0800 ---------- > From: Roy Cope > To: klr650@lists.xmission.com > Subject: (klr650) Dual Star centerstand > Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 7:41 AM > > There was a posting a while back about a interference problem between the > crossbar of the Dual Star centerstand and the bottom of the crankcase. I > finally got around to checking mine, and discovered that the bottom of the > crankcase was resting against the edge of the crossbar of the centerstand. > I removed the centerstand and with my Dremel hand held grinder I made a > notch maybe 3/32'' deep by about 1" long along the edge of the crossbar in > the center, now the crossbar no longer makes contact with the crankcase. > If you have a Dual Star centerstand check for clearance between the crossbar > and the crankcase I think you will find that there is none. > > Roy Cope 96KLR I believe the post you're referring to was mine. I really don't like the idea of the centerstand actually making contact with the case, but I talked to Mike at Dual Star and his opinion is that you don't have to worry about it because it is making contact with a reinforced part of the case (the little bump that houses the screw). Regardless, I am probably going to end up doing the same thing you did (Jim Barthell did it too), because I don't know how much pressure is being put on the case. This is the last place I want a leak to develop. My real problem, however, was that the centerstand wasn't actually lifting the bike off the ground when it was fully deployed, it was readily apparent that the stand came to rest too far past 90 degrees (compared to the ground). I talked to Mike about it and, while he said that the stand has to rest slighlty past 90 degrees, he agreed that it should be lifting the bike higher. I shipped it back to him about a week ago (he's paying shipping) so he can take a look at it and fix whatever is wrong. I know that there was at least one other lister who had the same problem, so I will let the list know how the stand turns out after I get it back. Carlos Milwaukee, WI ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Juan Villarreal" Subject: (klr650) (nklr) All apologies..... Date: 30 Nov 1998 09:02:42 PST Bill from Alabama wrote: "Why did you apologize?" Don't worry Bill, it wasn't one of those "sincere" apologies. It was purely tongue-in-cheek, as most things are that fall out of my mouth. Thanks for the encouraging words though. I'll continue to do my part to contribute a little knowledge when able and a little controversy when necessary. Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR (not actually a dead messenger, just in intensive care) ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Jeffrey P Moorbeck Subject: Re: (klr650) loss of power Date: 30 Nov 1998 11:08:59 -0700 (MST) On Sun, 29 Nov 1998 omegacolor@sssnet.com wrote: > Hopped on the highway the other day, was cruising along at 75 mph > (Dry sunny - about 50 F) > when I abruptly began to lose power and couldn't get any power > above 4k or about 55 to 60 MPH. Finished the 50 mile trip, then > checked and cleaned the air filter, pulled the plug (had some > carbon build-up probably due to running with choke - seemed to > help a very slight bit) - cleaned the s plug and reinstalled. > Took it for a spin - same effect. > Same thing happened to me, it was a clogged jet. Get at the carb, either pull it or simply disconnect the cables and fuel lines and drop the bowl. The main jet comes out real easy and inspect for gunk. Go nuts with a can of carb cleaner. Be sure to install that fuel filter afterwards. -Jeff Moorbeck '89 KLR ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: polecat Subject: (klr650) Dangers of travel beyond another border Date: 30 Nov 1998 19:07:01 -0600 OK, we've learned quite a bit about travel in Mexico. That border is a bit far for me, & I'm more concerned with the pitfalls of travel to the north. Do I have to worry about roving bands of wheat farmers, or loggers? Is secession talk causing civil unrest? Should I avoid Quebec as a result? Should I learn French? What kind of road travel kit should I carry for the wilds of southern Manitoba? Are the roads particularly bad just north of Windsor? Can I get good gasoline anywhere? Chuck McCullough Northern Wisconsin ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Per Eriksson" Subject: (klr650) The superswede!!!! Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:43:57 +0100 Hello again Planning to switch my old KLR for some Swedish metal..... Has anyone heard of a new motorcyclecompany called Highland motors?? Anyway, it is a Swedish company which recently announced their really cool 950 cc V-twin dual sports bike. It looks like a racing enduro machine but it has a really powerful V-twin 4-stroke engine. It produces between 80 and 100 horsepower dependning on what cams that are fitted. The weight is 130 kg (less than 290 pounds!!) The company's main markets are Europe and US. They are planning to sell 700 of them next year. I have read some tests in Swedish motorcyclepress and it got great reveiws. CHECK IT OUT AT http://www.highlandmotors.se/ A real Killer!!! Any comments on this baby??? Never has a fifth-gear wheelie been so easy.......... Per Eriksson, Sweden KLR 650-89 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) KLR, BMW, riders Date: 30 Nov 1998 15:29:58 EST In light of recent postings of opinions, I thought some facts might be of interest. The BMWMOA club has a monthly magazine/newsletter. The cover of the most recent issue features 3 men on 3 BMW motorcyles. (No surprise, it is a BMW club). What is not covered in the issue is the fact that each of the 3 men pictured were in attendance at the Chicago area KLR breakfast get together about a month ago. One of the men on the cover has a KLR. Another individual on the cover and I attended a Moto Guzzi rally together this summer. Diversity. Great for people and motorcycles. Overlaps where you least expect it. Read this months Rider, the Clemente article. Same topic. Good article. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "=?ISO-8859-1?Q?Carlos_Y._Gonz=E1lez?=" Subject: Re: (klr650) The superswede!!!! Date: 30 Nov 1998 14:47:19 -0800 ---------- > From: Per Eriksson > To: KLR-listan > Subject: (klr650) The superswede!!!! > Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:43 AM > >It looks like a racing enduro machine but > it has a really powerful V-twin 4-stroke engine. It produces between 80 and > 100 horsepower dependning on what cams that are fitted. The weight is 130 > kg (less than 290 pounds!!) The company's main markets are Europe and US. > They are planning to sell 700 of them next year. I have read some tests in > Swedish motorcyclepress and it got great reveiws. > Any comments on this baby??? > > Per Eriksson, Sweden KLR 650-89 Per, Do you know if this thing exist yet, is it available to the public, or is it still a prototype? 75 horses sounds pretty nice, though I don't know how you would get that down on the road with with those knobbies without killing yourself. Also the tank seems a little small for such a big engine, do you know how much it holds? This thing looks like it would make for a killer kick-ass motard if you put some road tires on it. It doesn't look too practical though, no wind protection or place for luggage to make it bearable for long distance work. Have they set a price? Carlos (wouldn't mind an impractical bike) Milwaukee ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) Turn Signal Canceller >>where?? Date: 30 Nov 1998 13:18:56 -0800 List, Someone recently commented on a turn signal canceller and I can't find the original post. I think they bought it at a BMW rally (?). Has adjustable delay, replaces stock unit. Fred hasn't found it yet, so does anyone know about this? thanks, eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alan Henderson Subject: Re: (klr650) Turn Signal Canceller >>where?? Date: 30 Nov 1998 17:18:25 -0600 Here is the info on the signal canceller. Alan Henderson > > Someone recently commented on a turn signal canceller and I can't find the >original post. I think they bought it at a BMW rally (?). Has adjustable >delay, replaces stock unit. Fred hasn't found it yet, so does anyone know >about this? >Reply-To: "skip faulkner" > > > >>Skip, I'm interested in installing headlight oscillators on my bikes too. >>Do you know a source for these, and what is their price? Thanks. Rob C. >>'98 KLR650 3800mi >>'98 Voyager XII 3300mi >>'97 KLR250 1400mi >>-----Original Message----- > > >Rob, > I bought my modulator from a rep at the BMW rally in Missoula, this >summer. It is a PathBlazer made by Kisan Technologies. Fred may have access >to them, and I know Competition Accessories carries them. I`d check with >Fred first. Matrick posted the website for Kisan. I have the P115 which is >the high power version for H4 bulbs, which is what you have. If you are >staying with stock voltages, get the 75. I paid $49 for mine, but that was >at a rally, where you can get some good deals. I believe they are more than >that . I don`t know if they tell you on the website, but these modulators >have a photovoltaic sensor, that disengages the system at night, pretty >cool. > They also have a tail-light modulator that activates as soon as you >touch your brakes, and ending in a steady light. > They make a cool signal cut-off that I got to try out on a demo bike. >You can program it to cut off your turn signal any where from 5 to 80 >seconds after the signal has been turned on. It`s all in the flasher unit, >so you just switch flashers. > > > Skip (who needs a brain modulator) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Charles Milliken Subject: (klr650) Swedish Horsepower? Date: 30 Nov 1998 19:07:50 -0500 That Highland Motors V-twin is pretty impressive! That bike should lead the= other manufacturers into the future. I was right about to buy a 99 KLR and= I'm starting to have second thoughts after seeing that. The Horsepower= figure is throwing me off. I have a spec sheet from Kawasaki and have= visited their web site and never seen mention of the bikes horsepower? Does= anyone know where I can find some boneified specs on that? How does the KLR= stand up to that 920 V-twin? Ah, that must feel awesome! And while I'm on the wire.. Any riding buddies in Beantown looking in? Chalz. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Cobra Exhaust Update Date: 30 Nov 1998 18:06:05 -0600 The Cobra 4stroke exhaust and K&N filter are mounted, and I have = 100miles on them so far. This pipe is sooo cheap, that I thought I'd try it. The unit looks = strudy enough and sounds Great & LOUD (not as loud as a Screaming Eagle = on a HD). Someone else on the list has had bad luck with the Cobra. I'm wondering = where the problem was. I did have to trim the black under fender, plenty = of clearance on the side cover. The collector is blueing, but that's = fine with me. The bike is dismantled right now (Carb is removed), and I hope to have = the Jet kit installed tonight or tomorrow. CC Kenny 98 A12 (worried about drilling) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cameron Cole Subject: RE: (klr650) Swedish Horsepower? Date: 30 Nov 1998 19:22:22 -0500 At least three new VTwin bikes are coming out in 1-3 years: KTM, Highland, and CCM. All are around 950cc, produce around 75-100 BHP (likely around 85 bhp), and weigh in around 300 pounds (just under i would imagine). The KLR produces about 35-40 bhp. It is a VERY underpowered bike for a 650cc. I have tuned mine to no end and I can't imagine I get much over 40bhp. Here is an email I sent out earlier: > A small article appeared in a US mag (Cycle World page 26 December 1998) > about VTwin dirt bikes. Listing the Highland 950 V2 Outback and the CCM > 934 efi. Here are some snipets from the article: > If you think dirtbike riders are going to miss out on the current trend > toward big, four-stroke V-Twins, think again. If CCM, KTM and upstart > bike-builder Highland have their way, the throaty roar of the > twin-cylinder motorcycles will soon be accompanied by clouds of dust. > ... further into the short article ... > Expect a dry weight of less than 300 pounds. > ... further into the short article ... > USA's Bob Swanson. "The engine weighs 118 pounds, and we're aiming > for 90 horsepower." -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 7:08 PM That Highland Motors V-twin is pretty impressive! That bike should lead the other manufacturers into the future. I was right about to buy a 99 KLR and I'm starting to have second thoughts after seeing that. The Horsepower figure is throwing me off. I have a spec sheet from Kawasaki and have visited their web site and never seen mention of the bikes horsepower? Does anyone know where I can find some boneified specs on that? How does the KLR stand up to that 920 V-twin? Ah, that must feel awesome! And while I'm on the wire.. Any riding buddies in Beantown looking in? Chalz. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Jet sizes & Needles Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:02:17 -0600 My existing main jet was labeled 148. So I'm going to try the jet = labeled 150. I don't plan on using the 136 that came with the kit, so I = was thinking about drilling that out to 1/16" and using that. Is this = working for anyone? I don't care about fuel economy, as long as I can = get 150 miles from a tank. The jet kit comes with a needle and 2 washers and 2 circlips. It sounds = like you put the circlip on groove 4 (stage2), and then lay the washers = on top of that. So you end up with an extra circlip?=20 Comments welcome Thank You CC Kenny 98 A12 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) Cobra update Date: 30 Nov 1998 18:20:12 PST I reported earlier that I burnt out my new Cobra exhaust after a few days of burning up the interstate (80-85 mph). I'm happy to say Cobra replaced it quickly and with no hassle. I had set the carburation sorta between Dynojet's Stage 1 and Stage 2 for an aftermarket pipe. I.e., the needle on groove 4 and a 140 mainjet. While the bike seemed to run fine on that setting (e.g., no backfiring when letting off the throttle) the plug did look pretty white when I did a throttle chop at high rpm. So, on the theory that the bike might be running too lean and that this caused the premature exhaust burn out, I upped the main jet to 150 (the biggest in the Dynojet kit). So, now it's a full Stage 2. I must say the bike seems to run even more sweetly, so that's further evidence it was lean before. Haven't yet done a new plug chop. (It's such a pain on this bike, whot with having to pull the well bolted down Acerbis tank. Marick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra Exhaust Update Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:37:44 -0600 Ken Belfatto wrote: > The Cobra 4stroke exhaust and K&N filter are mounted, and I have 100miles on them so far. > This pipe is sooo cheap, that I thought I'd try it. The unit looks strudy enough and sounds Great & LOUD (not as loud as a Screaming Eagle on a HD). > Someone else on the list has had bad luck with the Cobra. I'm wondering where the problem was... Hi, Ken, and List...I also have considered the 'cheap' Cobra pipe for my stock '89 KLR. Can anyone tell me if I *NEED* to 'jet' with this pipe? Probably 99% of my riding is 'street', although I occasionally like to do a bit of high speed hiway...wouldn't want to lean-burn some valuable engine innards... Does it make more power? I'm sure it sounds better and is lighter... Any other pros or cons ? Thanks Phil in (Brrrrrrr) Saskatchewan... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR/KLX +BigGun exhaust Date: 30 Nov 1998 21:19:17 EST On 10/20/98, klr650@bellsouth.net wrote: >After a conversation w/ Fred today I got to thinking about KLX exhausts. >I see alot more listings in the catalogs for KLX 650 exhausts vs. the >KLR. Is there a reason that would preclude our using KLX exhausts (like >routing clearance, head tube size/shape, etc.)? Was just curious and >decided to think out loud. Knew you all would have the answer. Jake, good news. There's another klX exhaust;-) BigGun just shipped their first batch out. (They have about 10 left in inventory). Today I went to their offices to visit Mike Young and check out the pipe today. Comparing the two side by side I think it would be easy to adapt the klX silencer to the klR using a collar. The klX head pipe on the other hand has a round head pipe connection vs. an oval opening on the klR. Next week they're going to use my bike as the guinea pig for the klR prototype. (If I get it put back together in time;). Did any of you klX pilots order one of these yet? If so, give the rest of us some feedback. Redondo Ron (who's hoping to change his tune...soon) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) NKLR diversity Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:41:04 +0000 Ztib wrote: The BMWMOA club has a monthly magazine/newsletter. The cover of the most recent issue features 3 men on 3 BMW motorcyles. (No surprise, it is a BMW club). What is not covered in the issue is the fact that each of the 3 men pictured were in attendance at the Chicago area KLR breakfast get together about a month ago. One of the men on the cover has a KLR. Another individual on the cover and I attended a Moto Guzzi rally together this summer. Diversity..... As the coverboy who OWNS the KLR, I want to say that owning 2 very different bikes has been a great pleasure. Now I want to buy a Cruiser (GASP!!!) just because it too will give me yet another perspective on riding. I'm still the same guy. My BMW friends like me, I hope I fit in with the KLR guys too! I've seen people who fit Juan's stereotype in my BMW realm. I see them come out of the woodwork when the topic are politics, religion, cars, and anything else for that matter. I simply just avoid closed minded people. My philosophy is, you have your opinion, I have mine. Ain't it great!!!!! Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL 88 BMW K75S <--valued at snobbish/whopping $3,700 98 KLR 650<---not paid off yet! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: RE: (klr650) Cobra Exhaust Update Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:43:27 -0600 Can anyone tell me if I *NEED* to 'jet' with this pipe? The Cobra Documentation reports that re-jetting is not necessary. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Ken Belfatto Subject: (klr650) Spark Plug Indexing Washers Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:50:17 -0600 Just my luck. While putting a new plug in, I notice (after counting = revolutions) that the plug gap winds up facing the exhaust, and not the = intake. This kinda sucks. I'm considering the washers. Thanks for the = post. CC Kenny ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:49:29 +0000 All this sniping has this question begging to be asked to really reveal our diversity. IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER, LIST 10 BIKES YOU'D LIKE TO SEE IN YOUR GARAGE. (of course I'm waiting for some smart ass to list 10 bikes of the same marque!) Here's mine: 1998 Kawasaki KLR 650 1986 Moto Guzzi Lemans 1999 BMW R1100S 1988 (?) Honda VF1000R Suzuki RG 500 Gamma 1998 Kawasaki Vulcan BMW R60/2 tricked out BMW R80G/S Ducati 851 1986 Kawasaki 600 Ninja wait there's more............. :-) Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: Re: (klr650) Dangers of travel beyond another border Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:58:13 -0600 polecat wrote: >I'm more concerned with the pitfalls of travel to the north. >Do I have to worry about roving bands of wheat farmers, or >loggers? Is secession talk causing civil unrest? Should I avoid >Quebec as a result? Should I learn French? >What kind of road travel kit should I carry for the wilds of southern >Manitoba? Are the roads particularly bad just north of Windsor? Can I >get good gasoline anywhere? Hey, Chuck, don't worry about the wheat farmers! Living in the flat prairies of Saskatchewan, I can assure you that most of 'em are in Arizona for the winter, heh heh. Actually we have a joke...know the difference between a Sask wheat farmer and a 747 ? ...A 747 quits whining when it gets to Arizona, heh heh heh. Quebec? Never been close to it, but I've heard on VROC (That's Vulcan Riders and Owners Club) at http://www.vroc.org that Quebec police are really cracking down on loud exhaust - they are having quite a lot of trouble there (Montreal) with rival gangs - Hell's Angels and Roch Machine, I guess. Good gasoline? Well I made a trip to southern Wisconsin last June and found particularly **BAD** gas in MN + (to a lesser extent) in WI. Trailered my Vulcan 1500 down over 1000 miles (pourin' rain there and back) to Boscobel, WI, for a 2-day weekend ride (beautiful weather) with VROCers from all over. BEAUTIFUL country in Southern WI !!! Goin back next mid-June !!! My trusty old 76 Olds 455 *BARELY RAN* on the regular with the ethanol or methanol or whatever it is. -- hungree VROC.72 WOTI (Wings on the Internet) Guardian Whale GWRRA (Gold Wing Restaurant Raiders, heh heh) South Sask Beemer J. Philip Zucht, Regina, Saskatchewan ... Canada, eh! ... 87 1200 Aspencade ... 89 650 KLR ... You can't be young forever, but you can be immature indefinitely. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Chadd Thompson Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 22:06:05 -0600 At 08:49 PM 11/30/98 +0000, Alex Jomarron wrote: >All this sniping has this question begging to be asked to really reveal our diversity. >IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER, LIST 10 BIKES YOU'D LIKE TO SEE IN YOUR GARAGE. >(of course I'm waiting for some smart ass to list 10 bikes of the same marque!) > Well here is my list: 1. Africa Twin 2. Triumph Tiger "not the NEW and improved UGLY one" 3. 96 or up KLR 650 "Modified with goodies of course" 4. BMW K75 5. Honda ST 1100 6. Kawasaki Concours 7. Honda Trans Alp 8. Suzuki DR350 9. Maybe a BMW R1100 RT ??? 10. A good sport bike not sure what one though. Thanks Chadd Thompson chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jsboyles1@juno.com (James W Boyles) Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 30 Nov 1998 21:44:04 -0600 What you ride is not important. The fact that you do ride is. All riders are addicted to the same thing and the brand with which we choose to enjoy the sport is a manner of individual preference. If it wern't we'd all be driving Fords. On Sat, 28 Nov 1998 19:53:26 EST VFR754@aol.com writes: >In a message dated 11/28/98 3:13:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, >Ztib@aol.com >writes: > ><< there are many supporters of each marque that > simply enjoy that marque. >> > >I have to agree. I just had this conversation (last week) with my dad >who is a >60 year-old BMW R1100RT rider, who travels at least 10,000 miles a >year going >to BMW/CMA rallies. I asked him what the response would be if I went >with him >next year to some of the BMW raliies on my KLR. He said most of the >people he >knows from the rallies probably would be interested rather than >objecting to >it. He said "Ya know son, it doesn't matter if you ride an old water >buffalo >(Old 2 stroke Suzuki triple), the important thing is that a person is >a rider, >not what they ride. I don't care what a guy is ridin'. The important >thing is >that it's a motorcycle." > I used to think that my dad only liked BMW's and frowned at other >types of >bikes, but that was because I NEVER ASKED HIM WHAT HE THOUGHT. Turns >out he >doesn't even think about it much at all. There are probably a lot of >BMW/H-D >riders out there who feel the same way. Most Harley riders and Beemer >riders I >know prefer their brand of bike, but don't look down or slam others, >unless >they are ridiculed first.. The ones I know, can see the merits of >many >different brands/types of bikes and riding, just like me. >After riding my KLR, my dad is even thinking of picking up a used Dual >Sport >sometime over the winter to go with his Beemer. I don't care what he >gets. The >thought of me and my 60 year-old dad going on DS rides together is >enough to >make me happy. Even if he doesn't get a DS bike, we'll still continue >riding >together. Him on his BMW R1100RT, and me on my KLR650......A German >bike and a >Japanese bike; a Tourer rider, and a Dual Sport rider, cruising along >in >harmony........In his own words, "The important thing is that it's a >motorcycle!" > >Bill Swindle >98' KLR650 >Montgomery, IL. > >P.S. There is a good article about this sort of thing in the latest >issue of >Rider magazine > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR/KLX +BigGun exhaust Date: 30 Nov 1998 21:19:17 EST On 10/20/98, klr650@bellsouth.net wrote: >After a conversation w/ Fred today I got to thinking about KLX exhausts. >I see alot more listings in the catalogs for KLX 650 exhausts vs. the >KLR. Is there a reason that would preclude our using KLX exhausts (like >routing clearance, head tube size/shape, etc.)? Was just curious and >decided to think out loud. Knew you all would have the answer. Jake, good news. There's another klX exhaust;-) BigGun just shipped their first batch out. (They have about 10 left in inventory). Today I went to their offices to visit Mike Young and check out the pipe today. Comparing the two side by side I think it would be easy to adapt the klX silencer to the klR using a collar. The klX head pipe on the other hand has a round head pipe connection vs. an oval opening on the klR. Next week they're going to use my bike as the guinea pig for the klR prototype. (If I get it put back together in time;). Did any of you klX pilots order one of these yet? If so, give the rest of us some feedback. Redondo Ron (who's hoping to change his tune...soon) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 23:14:10 EST In a message dated 11/30/98 6:50:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, alex319@IDT.NET writes: << LIST 10 BIKES YOU'D LIKE TO SEE IN YOUR GARAGE. >> 1998 KLR650 1999 YZ400 1999 VFR800FI Interceptor (I luv Honda's V-Four) 1998 BMW R1100RT 1997-99 Triumph Tiger (A black one) Any older year BMW R80G/S 1999 Harley Dyna Super Glide Sport 1986 Honda VFR750 Interceptor (Red White and Blue, and MINT) 1999 Honda Z50 for my son .........................and a Ducati 916 to pose on............................ Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: Re: (klr650) Cobra Exhaust Update Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:37:44 -0600 Ken Belfatto wrote: > The Cobra 4stroke exhaust and K&N filter are mounted, and I have 100miles on them so far. > This pipe is sooo cheap, that I thought I'd try it. The unit looks strudy enough and sounds Great & LOUD (not as loud as a Screaming Eagle on a HD). > Someone else on the list has had bad luck with the Cobra. I'm wondering where the problem was... Hi, Ken, and List...I also have considered the 'cheap' Cobra pipe for my stock '89 KLR. Can anyone tell me if I *NEED* to 'jet' with this pipe? Probably 99% of my riding is 'street', although I occasionally like to do a bit of high speed hiway...wouldn't want to lean-burn some valuable engine innards... Does it make more power? I'm sure it sounds better and is lighter... Any other pros or cons ? Thanks Phil in (Brrrrrrr) Saskatchewan... ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Hungree Subject: Re: (klr650) Lights, Life, Oil and Philosophy Date: 30 Nov 1998 22:43:00 -0600 James W Boyles wrote: > What you ride is not important. The fact that you do ride is. All > riders are addicted to the same thing and the brand with which we choose > to enjoy the sport is a manner of individual preference. If it wern't > we'd all be driving Fords. Not me, I'd rather walk that drive a Ford. GM rules! heh heh heh, couldn't resist... hungree ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) Pipe gasket Date: 30 Nov 1998 23:43:39 -0500 For those engaged in or about to engage in pipe/exhaust conversions, I suggest (from first hand experience) either preserving the gummy black gasket that comes out of the stock exhaust pipe or ordering another when you order your pipe. I'm referring to the one that makes up for the differences in diameter between the head pipe and the cannister. I damaged mine partially and it eventually fell apart during operation. I tried to replace it w/ various forms of "exhaust repair" materials (2 types)to seal the leak. Nothing stayed for any length of time I guess because of a higher degree of heat on the MC head pipe vs a car(?). The Cobra I am using did not come w/ a new gasket. Kaw dealer here wants $14 for a new one. If other exhausts come w/ replacements, all the better. Would like to hear what other pipe users have experienced. I can confirm that when my atempts to replace the gasket failed/melted and the pipe union began to leak air, the bike ran like crap (sputtered, misfired, idled poorly-you get the idea.) HTH Jake in Jacksonville ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: (klr650) Turn Signal Canceller >>FOUND Date: 30 Nov 1998 20:44:02 -0800 >> They make a cool signal cut-off that I got to try out on a demo bike. >>You can program it to cut off your turn signal any where from 5 to 80 >>seconds after the signal has been turned on. It`s all in the flasher unit, >>so you just switch flashers. >> >> >++++++++++++++++++++++++ >>>>>> Hey Alan, thanks. Fred found a link, http://www.kisantech.com/ ,so I went and looked, and sure enough he was right when he mentioned they were a little spendy. They're showing a list on the signal minder of $70. After wiping the sweat off my brow, I thanked Fred for his trouble. Of course I really gotta have one. (It looks like a flasher unit outside. Inside is a cute little printed circuit board. eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 23:53:34 -0500 Having been a life long Triumph owner/supporter, I must agree with you that the new Tiger is sadly uglier than previous iterations, which I found appealing. It looks like it was a product of a late night, drunken soiree between a Trophy and a R1100GS-both bikes of which I like but not as a family procreating new Tigers. Some people...er bikes shouldn't be allowed to have offspring. Jake Chadd Thompson wrote: > > At 08:49 PM 11/30/98 +0000, Alex Jomarron wrote: > >All this sniping has this question begging to be asked to really reveal our > diversity. > >IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER, LIST 10 BIKES YOU'D LIKE TO SEE IN YOUR GARAGE. > >(of course I'm waiting for some smart ass to list 10 bikes of the same marque!) > > > > Well here is my list: > > 1. Africa Twin > 2. Triumph Tiger "not the NEW and improved UGLY one" > 3. 96 or up KLR 650 "Modified with goodies of course" > 4. BMW K75 > 5. Honda ST 1100 > 6. Kawasaki Concours > 7. Honda Trans Alp > 8. Suzuki DR350 > 9. Maybe a BMW R1100 RT ??? > 10. A good sport bike not sure what one though. > > Thanks > Chadd Thompson > chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) NKLR My top 10 bikes Date: 30 Nov 1998 23:21:31 -0000 1. My current KLR (she's a good girl!) 2. 1987 Suzuki GSXR 1100 - original condition - attitutude 3. The original Suzuki Katana 1100 198? - what the hell was that? 4. 198? Kawasaki Eddie Lawson Replica KZ - ultimate classic sport bike 5. 1998 Yamaha YZF-R1 - blue, no words necessary 6. 1990 Yamaha FZR 400 - everyone should ride one once, unbelievable experience 7. 1988 Yamaha FZR 1000 - light as a 750, torquey rocket 8. 1998 BMW GS 1100 or the older Paris Dakar model in bumblee color scheme - for when I win Lotto and tell my boss to go... 9. 1998 Honda VFR 800 - ultimate sport tourer, for dragging my carcass around the country 10. 1998 Triumph Trophy 1200 - for dragging a whining female carcass around the country Just for fun, if you get the opportunity to ride an FZR 400, do not jump back on your KLR!!! It will feel like it is held together by a bunch of rubber bands! I thought my tires were flat! But, I adjusted back to my normal, happy camper riding in short time! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 21:22:59 -0800 ---> ><< LIST 10 BIKES YOU'D LIKE TO SEE IN YOUR GARAGE. >> > > 1996 KLR-650 1999 KLR-250 1999 Ducati Mantra 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6 1970's BMW and a good example of a Velo Solex I'll think of more later. eric ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Darrel & Deanna" Subject: (klr650) NKLR-Dream garage Date: 30 Nov 1998 22:02:35 -0800 You asked for it Alex. Here today's list. Tommorrow's would be different: BMW R80 G/S (a la Helge) Highlander Outback 950 1999 KTM Duke (I'd name it "Patty") Honda XR400 w/Baja Designs kit H-D Ultra Classic including kitchen sink A12 w/ *all* the amenities (working on it) 1947 Indian Chief 80" (for BMW rally field events) Kawasaki KLX300 in Larry Roeseler trim Ural w/sidehack (chase vehicle for the Harley) 1975 Honda XL350 for nolstolgia sake Darrel (whose garage is inadequately sized)