From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #4 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Sunday, January 31 1999 Volume 01 : Number 004 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:52:44 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) At Last!....Web searchable list archives... It is a little hard to contain my excitement about this announcement. After nearly a year of trying to figure how to get the list archives searchable I stumbled on what appears to be the solution. Thanks to the help of Jeffrey Campbell at listquest, the list archives are now web searchable. My days as a librarian are over! Here it is and enjoy.... http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Kurt A12 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:51:13 -0000 From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) KLR - Fork brace available Superbrace does produce a fork brace for the KLR for $100. It listed on my page at http://www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz under fork springs. http://www.motorcycletrailer.com/sbracesales1.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:08:23 -0800 From: Lois Eberhart Subject: [Fwd: (klr650) Master Cylinder Cover] This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --------------78B5E4B44551F1E9519B858A Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------31CA667BC360EBE6E1B8D15F" - --------------31CA667BC360EBE6E1B8D15F Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pat, I also liked your idea of the master cylinder protector. I fabbed one out of 1/4" alum. plate put slight "S" bend on it , and drilled to lighten and for looks. Used yours as a pattern, thanks. Works and looks great. Doug Polston ask about a head light guard, I used 1/2 x1/2 stainless screen, bent it to fit into the headlight opening in the fairing and around the lens. It also, looks good and might stop something from getting to headlight to cause damage. - --------------31CA667BC360EBE6E1B8D15F Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Pat,
I also liked your idea of the master cylinder protector. I fabbed one out of 1/4"
alum. plate put slight "S" bend on it , and drilled to lighten and for looks. Used yours as a pattern, thanks. Works and looks great. 
Doug Polston ask about a head light guard, I used 1/2 x1/2 stainless screen, bent it to fit into the headlight opening in the fairing  and around the lens. It also,  looks good and might stop something from getting to headlight to cause damage. - --------------31CA667BC360EBE6E1B8D15F-- - --------------78B5E4B44551F1E9519B858A Content-Type: message/rfc822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Received: from lists.xmission.com (lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7]) by revolution.3-cities.com (8.8.5/8.7.3) with ESMTP id KAA24016 for ; Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:05:57 -0800 (PST) Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 2.05 #1) id 106elf-0005jz-00 for klr650-goout@lists.xmission.com; Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:05:15 -0700 Received: from [207.115.153.30] (helo=smtp1.gte.net) by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 2.05 #1) id 106elc-0005ju-00 for klr650@lists.xmission.com; Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:05:12 -0700 Received: from default (1Cust184.tnt1.oxnard.ca.da.uu.net [153.37.194.184]) by smtp1.gte.net with SMTP id MAA07139; Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:05:09 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <001701be4c7b$cdce72a0$b8c22599@default> From: "Darrel & Deanna" To: "KLR list" Cc: Subject: (klr650) Master Cylinder Cover Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:34:37 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Darrel & Deanna" From: PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com I noticed in Juan Villarreal's pics that he installed the brake cover on his rear master cylinder (BTW- Nice pics, Juan). Anyway, since I was the 'founder' of this cover gerry rig I was wondering how many have installed it. ***************** Pat- You can count me as one who installed the cover. Don't know if it has a function, but it sure does have form. Can't imagine "Avenger" without it now. Thanks for the tip! Darrel A12 - --------------78B5E4B44551F1E9519B858A-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:27:02 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) At Last!....Web searchable list archives... - -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson To: KLR650-List Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 9:58 AM Subject: (klr650) At Last!....Web searchable list archives... >It is a little hard to contain my excitement about this announcement. >http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Hey Kurt! Good job!! This is what the list has needed from day one. This will work great for us "laymen" to find references that only the Gods(kurt) could find before. Is this something that is only specific to the KLR list or can it be adapted on other lists? Speaking of lists, I started a Moab or Arrowhead Motorsports mailing list this morning. If anyone wants to sign up for my list look on my web page. I will try to keep everyone up on what is happenin' in Moab and my shop. Lists are so cool! Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW* 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 21:47:41 -0800 From: "e. rhoads" Subject: Re: (klr650) klr650 info jackals - -----Original Message----- From: fred w smith To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:35 AM Subject: (klr650) klr650 info jackals >Joel N mentioned jackals. Is this something we should all know about? >== >fred w smith >mt shasta californy >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -------------------------------------------- >=========== probably not, unless it happens to be your astrological sign. eric ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:29:56 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) At Last!....Web searchable list archives...NKLR |>It is a little hard to contain my excitement about this announcement. | |>http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 | | |Hey Kurt! | |Good job!! This is what the list has needed from day one. This will work |great for us "laymen" to find references that only the Gods(kurt) could find |before. Is this something that is only specific to the KLR list or can it |be adapted on other lists? Any list...however, if you want the archives indexed (as opposed to the daily accumulation after listquest is subscribed) the archives have to be available if only through the work of the list owner....For whatever reason, many lists do not have archives... Kurt | |Speaking of lists, I started a Moab or Arrowhead Motorsports mailing list |this morning. If anyone wants to sign up for my list look on my web page. |I will try to keep everyone up on what is happenin' in Moab and my shop. | |Lists are so cool! | |Fred Hink |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ | Arrowhead Motorsports |http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW* | 435-259-7356 |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ | | | ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:04:30 -0800 From: Alex Jomarron Subject: (klr650) Going Stainless - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE4D09.7B8F8400 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Has anyone made a list of all the different size bolts that they've changed w/stainless? That would make life easy for those of us that don't have a good supplier of hardware. Hmmm......maybe I should! 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Motorcycle show in Cleveland. We've gone the last 4 year but this year there seemed to me to be more excitement, definitely more people. Almost all the manufacturers displays were very busy. Yamaha was particularly active with their R1, R6, the new off-road 250, various cruisers, and their redone Venture. I was most impressed with their 125cc go-cart that was claimed to be able to go 0 to 60 in 3.5 seconds! BMW was always crowded as well as Honda and Kawasaki. Suzuki seemed somewhat less busy. The Buell, KTM, Triumph, Ducati, Laverda, and of course Harley displays had people sitting on and dreaming of their favorites. If I had to pick a loser it'd be the Polaris Victory. I'm not a "cruiser person" but even I can see that it looks cheap compared to Harley and the Japanese cruisers. I was standing near Kawasaki's KLR 650 which was all fitted out with the tank bag and luggage. I couldn't help but think that at just over $5,000 list, it was maybe the best buy there! I enjoyed watching person after person walk up and admiringly look it over. When they looked at the price tag, they'd nod to whoever was with them and start looking closer. I don't think Kawasaki will have any problem selling all they bring over this year! Rick Sanders ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:44:54 -0600 From: "J.P.Zucht" Subject: Re: (klr650) At Last!....Web searchable list archives... Kurt Simpson wrote: >It is a little hard to contain my excitement about this announcement... > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 WOW ! TOO KEWL ! Kurt, you da man !! MEGA Thanks! hungree I've learned so much from all you Krazy KLR gear-heads in the last few months that I'm starting to think about buying a *NEW* KLR. Fred, I'm gonna be orderin' some stuff soon - jes makin' my list an' checkin' it twice... ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 12:56:13 +0000 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Going Stainless At 11:04 AM 1/31/99 -0800, Alex Jomarron wrote: >Has anyone made a list of all the different size bolts that they've changed w/stainless? >That would make life easy for those of us that don't have a good supplier of hardware. >Hmmm......maybe I should! The only hardware I have replaced with stainless to date are the two screws that secure the heat sheild to the header pipe, as I was constantly fighting rust in the threads. The only practical source available to me at that time was Kawasaki personal watercraft screws. These are of good quality but too expensive for a major retrofit. The price is reasonable enough for addressing a specific problem with one or two screws, though. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 31,900 miles ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:43:11 From: Guy Cheney Subject: (klr650) Air Filters Uni, K&N, Twin Air? Which filter to buy? Do they all fit without modifying the air box? Why is the K&N almost double the price of the Twin Air? How do they each hold up over time? What about filter cleaners and filter oil? Put 100 miles on the bike today. Would've planned a longer outing but all the local meaty urologists were predicting rain in the afternoon. Came home and put the stainless steel front brake line on - the static test would indicate air somewhere in the system as there is no perceivable change in the "feel" at the lever. I'll bleed it again in the morning and do the dynamic test if the rain still hasn't arrived. Any KLR brake bleeding tips? It seems pretty straight forward but I'm open to suggestion. Yours, Guy Cheney ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 07:07:30 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Air Filters L O N G (winded) - -----Original Message----- From: Guy Cheney To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 4:54 PM Subject: (klr650) Air Filters > > >Uni, K&N, Twin Air? Which filter to buy? Do they all fit without >modifying the air box? Why is the K&N almost double the price of the Twin >Air? How do they each hold up over time? What about filter cleaners and >filter oil? The Uni and Twin Air filters are made from foam and have two layers, a course layer and a finer layer to help filter out the dirt better. The K&N filter is called a gauze type that has two pleated screens with a gauze or cloth element sandwiched in between. The K&N will flow more air and do a better job at filtering. As a K&N gets more dirty it filters better until it restricts the air and your engine stops running, while the foam types will filter the air until they get dirty and then will pass the dirt on through. Racers will use a foam type over the K&N because they can at least finish a race and let their sponsors rebuild the engine for them. They all fit the KLR air box like your stock element. The foam types will deteriorate over time from using too much oil. The only K&N that I have seen damaged was because they were the external type and had a cable rubbing on them and had a hole worn through. Inside your air box they should last for ever with proper care. K&N has a (1 million mile?) warranty on it's filters for cars and trucks. Cleaning the K&N air filter is pretty easy. K&N has a "Recharger Kit", with the oil and cleaner. First you spray on the special cleaner, let it set for 10 minutes or so and wash it off with water. You can shake out most of the water but don't use compressed air as the air can damage the fibers of the gauze. Then take the special K&N filter oil and run a bead from the appicator down each pleat, being careful to not over do it. The oil will wick out from where you applied it, so let it set for 10 minutes or so and check on the inside to see if it has wicked all they way inside. You can tell because the oil is bright red. If it is not enough just put in a little more and that should be it. One point here...Don't use any other oils besides the K&N oil unless it is an emergency. A friend of mine says he burnt up his engine from using engine oil on his K&N. Cleaning a foam type filter is much more messy. You have to use your hands to distribute the cleaner and the oil. Same process as the K&N, use a water soluble degreaser. Work it into the foam by hand and let it set for 10 minutes or so. the reason you use a water soluble degreaser is that it will not attack the adhesives in your filter and cause the element to come unglued or crack open. Wash out the cleaner with water, and dry it. You may have to do this twice (same with the K&N) I use a rag to squeeze out the water and then either air dry it or you can use compressed air. Use a filter oil designed for a foam filter and don't use too much. Squeeze it around with your fingers to distribute it all through the foam. Then degrease your hands. Here is a new question that no one has asked yet on the list... What type of hand cleaner works for you? >Any KLR brake bleeding tips? > It seems pretty straight forward but I'm open to suggestion. The best way I think is to fill the brake fluid from the brake caliper side. Back filling the lines will remove most of the air but requires a special tool for this. You can use a "speedbleeder". I don't know if anyone has used these yet but they are supposed to make it easier by not having to open and close the valve at the caliper each time. Just pump the brake fluid through the system till all the air stops coming out. I am sure you are aware of the regular way.. Pump/hold/release/Repeat. Sorry this is L O N G. Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW* 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 09:26:46 -0800 From: nocoffee@juno.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Going Stainless I worked for an automotive fastener company for several years and the stainless fasteners we handled did not have the tensile strength necessary to replace most of those from carbon steel. They handled the corrosion problems but could be twisted off or stretched in medium to high torque applications. In areas where it doesn't matter I agree about stainless... A really good investment is a box full of 6MM nylock nuts to replace all of these that vibrate loose and all of the nifty nylon rivet kind of stuff developed for the newer cars. On Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:04:30 -0800 Alex Jomarron writes: >Has anyone made a list of all the different size bolts that they've >changed w/stainless? >That would make life easy for those of us that don't have a good >supplier of hardware. >Hmmm......maybe I should! > >Alex in Oak Park ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 02:19:35 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Air Filters L O N G (winded) Fred Hink wrote: [air filter cleaning] > Here is a new question that no one has asked yet on the list... > What type of hand cleaner works for you? I try to avoid getting my hands greasy or dirty in the first place. Household washing up gloves are good for a few messy or oily jobs, like cleaning and recoating filters :-) For dry dirty things, I like white thickish cotton gloves, a bit like gardening gloves. It's a lot quicker to remove gloves than to wash hands when, for example, the phone rings or I go for a leak or something. I got used to wearing gloves when I reconditioned car heads for a living. It sure beats having your hands covered in oil and junk all day. If if do have to use skin for fiddly little jobs, I find "Swarfega" is a good hand cleaner with a well deserved reputation. Any good industiral barrier cream is useful before getting the hands oily or dirty. > >Any KLR brake bleeding tips? > > It seems pretty straight forward but I'm open to suggestion. > > The best way I think is to fill the brake fluid from the brake caliper side. Yeah, to begin with. > Back filling the lines will remove most of the air but requires a special > tool for this. Nah. I just pump the caliper piston out. Having a set of old pads on the shelf ready to install into the caliper is a simple way of limiting the piston travel. Once the piston is out to the pad/disc wear limit, you can then replace the brake line or master lit or whatever. Once the system is back together, remove the caliper from the fork and squeeze the piston back in. This should push a lot of fluid back up the line. Once you start bleeding normally, a lot out the old fluid that was in the caliper goes out the bleed screw, which otherwise might have remained in the caliper. Once plenty of fresh fluid is in the line and master, you can refit the caliper and pump out the piston again to flush some new fluid through the caliper bore. Even if you are only bleeding the brake with no new bits, the piston pumping ensures that the new fluid gets into the caliper bore where the heat is. It takes a while to do with all the caliper fitting and refitting and piston pushing, but ensures fairly complete fluid replacement. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 09:03:57 -0800 From: "Vikram Banerjee" Subject: (klr650) KLR Sales I don't know about you guys, but in my neck of the woods you better by a KLR650 by early May or you won't get a bike that year. I am not sure if Kawi just isn't importing enough to meet demand or if the dealers are too busy ordering cruisers to get concerned about a short fall in KLR sales. I have seen a lot of dual sports on the road in Alberta - meaning one out of every 10 or so are DS bikes. Unfortunately, seeing one out of ten bikes on the road are DS bikes doesn't mean that is how well they are selling. I know a fair number of guys with cruisers and sport bikes in their garages that see the light of day 4 times a year or so. Its easy to forget that the bike manufacturers are just as happy to sell a guy a $10,000 cruiser that he never rides as a $5,000 DS bike that get's ridden daily. Takes wearing out a lot of genuine Kawi KLR parts to make up the difference in price! Having said that I am guilty of having a '85 750 GSX-R in my garage with 13,000KM on it. I live about a 100kms from the city where I work and go to school and the GSX-R is fun for the first 15mins after which I am think ..."....why didn't I ride the KLR???.." I have decided to trade it in on another DS bike. Maybe a DR350 so my GF can try it out and I'll have a lightweight bike for those 90% off-road trips. Anyone want a classic sport bike in excellent condition?...=) I keep hoping Kawi will introduce an improved KLR650 for the year 2000 - better brakes, suspension, etc..... BTW - somebody mentioned that Rider was doing a review on the KLR. Did I miss it or has that yet to happen? Cheers, Vik (keeping my fingers crossed) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 08:13:17 PST From: "Rev. Charles MacKarness" Subject: (klr650) Re: Virus Warning . . . Hoax- A virus needs to reside in some type of executable code, any file designed to access the hardware of your system. Fortunately, simply reading a plain text e-mail does not access your system hardware. This "urban legend" type of hoax is intended to congest the internet and our mail boxes with the warning and then replies (like this). Seems to work... :^)>+ Rev. Chuck '99 KLR650: 111 miles and growing... ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 08:45:24 -0800 From: Rob Gendreau Subject: (klr650) Anza-Borrego State Park I hope to be in or near Anza-Borrego State Park after the President's Day weekend. Any suggested rides, websites, GPS waypoint sources, etc. etc. would be appreciated. Thanks mucho, Rob Rob Gendreau Oakland, California gendreau@ccnet.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:50:38 -0600 From: "K.D. Bailey" Subject: (klr650) Rear Master Cylinder cover The master cylinder cover is a great idea. I ordered the one that I thought was correct, but it bends the wrong way! Do I just have to modify it? I got the right hand one for the 600R, is that right? Does anyone have the part number handy? Thanks, K.D. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 09:25:03 -0800 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Anza-Borrego State Park Here are two sources off the top of my head. 1. "Backroad trips and tips to unpaved Southern Ca." Harry Lewellyn, Glovebox Guide; ISBN 0-944781-01-2....I bought mine at Barnes and Noble but I've seen them at the map store. 2. Guide to OFF-HIGHWAY VEHICLE AREAS of California, brochure and map published by the state, picked it up in motorcycle store. I rode in Ocotillo Wells a few weeks back. Its in the southern part of of the Anza Borrego Area. It is officially designated as an off road park. You don't need a street legal bike there. Its GONZO there on a busy weekend. Take water. IF any in your party have green stickered bikes only, be sure you know where the park boundaries are. The Rangers are salty about it. One dirt tire on the state highway and your getting a ticket. Watch out for the sand buggies! These guys DRINK!!!! They are always lit and the gas pedal is on the floor! Someone gets "Life-Flighted" out of there everyweekend. Its a great place to ride, the people are friendly. Any kind of terrain is available. There are a lot of single track washes and trails. Here is the protocol. When someone comes at you in the wash and flashes you the peace sign, he's not a hippie (well maybe not), he's telling you there are 2 more guys behind him coming at you. There are countless other dirt roads in the area. Some climb from below sea level up into the Mts. around Palomar and Idylwild. Glamis is another popular weekend area, its further south. Its is all sand, lotsa loud 2 strokes, ATV's, and big blown sand dragsters and buggies. Its not the back to nature crowd, these are the hard core "FUN HOGS"....someone usually dies there on a "good weekend." TAKE WATER TAKE WATER TAKE WATER TAKE WATER TAKE WATER ok take beer too The desert can be a harsh mistress, be aware, be prepared, have fun. Maybe I'll see you there. Morgan Carlsbad, Ca. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:50:53 -0600 From: "Dennis L. Williams" Subject: Re: (klr650) Air Filters My advice is buy the K&N. It may be twice the price but it will be the last filter you buy for that bike. They are a true lifetime filter. I bought one for my Yamaha SR500 in 1979 and that same filter is still on the bike at 59,000 miles. I've cleaned it maybe four times over the past twenty years. I also used K&Ns on Harleys for fourteen years and currently have a K&N in my pickup truck. As for oil and cleaners, K&N sells both, but I have always washed mine in the kitchen sink with ordinary dish soap and water. Ordinary motor oil seems to work just fine for re-oiling. Dennis 98 KLR650 79 XT500 78 SR500 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 14:10:58 EST From: MSchue5938@aol.com Subject: (klr650) what's the fork tube dia. for the klr650? hi guys, i'm trying to find out the fork tube diameter for the klr650. i'm putting in new fork seals and want to buy some fork boots but have no idea what the fork tube size is ( in millimeters). i've looked in both manuals and can't find the info. anybody know? and is it the same for the klr600 as the 650? mark schuette ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 12:41:10 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) what's the fork tube dia. for the klr650? >hi guys, i'm trying to find out the fork tube diameter for the klr650. They're spindly 39's Mike...don't know about Ten guys...I think they are fatter and more desirable for that reason... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:07:49 EST From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: (klr650) I though I knew it all. Man, I thought I knew about all of the dual sports out there, then I see the latest issue of Motorcyclist with the buyers guide. There it is in the dual sport section, the newly revised Suzuki DR200. Looks all the world like a Laverda 750 Formula. I wonder how it handles in the dirt? Also, I was unaware that BMW and Aprillia decided to market their F650 and 650 Pegaso in the sport touring category instead of as dual sports. I just don't know anymore. I must be slipping. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 13:38:47 -0800 From: "Rob Clement" Subject: Re: (klr650) New buyer... Gino, good response. I agree totally. One more thing: the KLRList is so much fun and so informative that I waste at least two hours a week reading and responding. Thanks. Rob C. A12, KLR250. VXII - -----Original Message----- From: Pokluda, Gino F To: KLR List Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 9:31 AM Subject: RE: (klr650) New buyer... >These are some of the major problems with the KLR650 > >1. My wallet is still too fat after I bought it. >2. I have to ride it so much that my family life suffers. >3. It does everything so well, I have to bribe friends to ride my other >bikes. >4. I might have to go to the Betty Ford clinic for KLR650 addictions. >5. I don't get to visit the gas station nearly enough, thus I'm missing out >on my jelly doughnut fix which is very traumatic. > > >Gino > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 14:18:44 -0800 From: Mike Magier Subject: (klr650) headlight puzzle OK - let's just start out by saying I'm an electrical newbie. I've been out a few times in the last few weeks on my 97 KLR650, all going fine. I happened to notice yesterday that the headlight isn't on, though. No high beam either. Brake lights and turn signals are fine, so is horn. Today, I start looking around. Tried replacing the replacement bulb with the stock I removes last summer. Checked the fuses. Tore open the high-beam switch. Checked all the obvious blade connectors, all to no avail. I took out my $15 "multimeter" to try to figure things out. Here's where the "electrical newbie" part comes in. I've only ever used this thing to check if 2 points are connected by checking Ohms. Today I tried to see if there is juice getting to the switch by checking the 3 contacts on the switch. I tried DC volts and DC amps, no go. D'uh - how do I check if the switch is getting juice? If not, what else do I check? I shudder to think of any of the following scenarios: 1 - admit defeat - take bike to dealer (their service dept SUCKS!!) 2 - admit defeat - take bike to local "bike repair guy" 3 - start taking apart wiring harness - Iwould DEFINITELY be in over my head at that point. Anyone with any suggestions? Mike Magier (no stranger to being in the dark . . .) 97 KLR650 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 16:29:56 -0600 From: Alan Henderson Subject: Re: (klr650) headlight puzzle At 02:18 PM 1/31/99 -0800, you wrote: >OK - let's just start out by saying I'm an electrical newbie. I've been out >a few times in the last few weeks on my 97 KLR650, all going fine. I >happened to notice yesterday that the headlight isn't on, though. No high >beam either. Brake lights and turn signals are fine, so is horn. > >Today, I start looking around. Tried replacing the replacement bulb with the >stock I removes last summer. Checked the fuses. Sounds like you blew a fuse under the seat just above the battery. Is that where you checked? How did you check? Tore open the high-beam >switch. Checked all the obvious blade connectors, all to no avail. I took >out my $15 "multimeter" to try to figure things out. Here's where the >"electrical newbie" part comes in. I've only ever used this thing to check >if 2 points are connected by checking Ohms. Today I tried to see if there is >juice getting to the switch by checking the 3 contacts on the switch. I >tried DC volts and DC amps, Don't try testing for voltage on the amps setting, it is like putting a piece of wire accross the terminals which can result in blown fuses on the bike and in the multimeter. If you haven't, get the the fuses under the seat, take them out and check with the ohm section of the multimeter. Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:58:25 -0700 From: "josh sammons" Subject: Re: (klr650) New buyer... Sounds to me like a blown fuse. My dad's '92 did the same thing about a month ago. Just check the fuse which is in a little black box near the top of the battery. Just open it up and check it out. All that happened on dad's was no headlight but everything else worked. takes 5 mins if that is what is wrong. hope this helped. josh - -----Original Message----- From: Rob Clement To: Pokluda, Gino F ; KLR List Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 2:33 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) New buyer... >Gino, good response. I agree totally. One more thing: the KLRList is so >much fun and so informative that I waste at least two hours a week reading >and responding. Thanks. Rob C. A12, KLR250. VXII >-----Original Message----- >From: Pokluda, Gino F >To: KLR List >Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 9:31 AM >Subject: RE: (klr650) New buyer... > > >>These are some of the major problems with the KLR650 >> >>1. My wallet is still too fat after I bought it. >>2. I have to ride it so much that my family life suffers. >>3. It does everything so well, I have to bribe friends to ride my other >>bikes. >>4. I might have to go to the Betty Ford clinic for KLR650 addictions. >>5. I don't get to visit the gas station nearly enough, thus I'm missing out >>on my jelly doughnut fix which is very traumatic. >> >> >>Gino >> >> > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 15:22:12 -0800 From: Brian Bonenfant Subject: Re: (klr650) Air Filters L O N G (winded) Hello all, When I originally purchased my bike, I was visiting the local service department, and I got a tip that I thought sounded very reasonable / beneficial and have been doing it since. But after reading below, Question : After clean / re-oiling the OEM filter I was advised to run a thick bead of heavy grease between the base of the foam filter, to where it contacts the airbox, to seal any possible dirt or air getting around the filter. I use - AGS Slik Grease - it's like a heavy grease you put between the calliper and pad to stop squealing on a brake job. I guess my question, is this something I should stop, or is there something better to use in it's place ? Does anyone do anything different ? Thanks Brian Fred Hink wrote: > Then take the special K&N filter oil and run a bead from the > appicator down each pleat, being careful to not over do it. The oil will > wick out from where you applied it, so let it set for 10 minutes or so and > check on the inside to see if it has wicked all they way inside. You can > tell because the oil is bright red. If it is not enough just put in a > little more and that should be it. One point here...Don't use any other > oils besides the K&N oil unless it is an emergency. A friend of mine says > he burnt up his engine from using engine oil on his K&N. Cleaning a foam > type filter is much more messy. You have to use your hands to distribute > the cleaner and the oil. Same process as the K&N, use a water soluble > degreaser. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 16:57:47 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: (klr650) Fw: KLR600 valve clearance adjustement - -----Original Message----- From: Pippo Nicotera To: Fred Hink Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 8:11 AM Subject: KLR600 valve clearance adjustement >Hello' Fred, > >I'm going to take advance of your experience one more time! > >I'm currently doing my first valve clearance adjustement on my KLR and I'm >almost sure they haven't been touched by anyone since long ago, even if I >always asked to check the valves when I brought my bike to a shop for >maintenance. ALL my clearances are BELOW the lower limit. I'll save you the >details, but my question is very simple: > >Given that with the design adopted in the KLR the clearances tend to close >over time (because of valve seat surface wear, AFAIK) would YOU adjust >clearances to bring them close or at THE UPPER TOLERANCE LIMIT, or would you >set them right in the middle of the allowed range??? If possible, can you >explain me why briefly? Hello Pippo, How are you in Italy? If you can tell that your engine's valve clearance gets tighter with age then I would probably set the clearance towards the loose side if you don't want to have to adjust the valves very often. If you don't mind checking the clearance then I would say to set the clearance as tight as possible and still be in spec. The reason for this is that for a tighter clearance you will have more valve lift and duration (just like putting in a performance cam) than a loose clearance. Which should give you better performance, but you will have to keep a close eye on your adjustments. I stock all size shims for $2.99 each. I may be out of the 260 or 270. Hope this explains what you were asking. Fred Hink ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Arrowhead Motorsports http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/index.html *NEW* 435-259-7356 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ > >If you believe the question may be of some interest to the list, reply to >it, I'll get the answer anyway, of course! > >A little sidenote: I asked for shims to several Kawa Authorized Service >Shops and the answer has been always "No, we don't stock them... we only >order them if and when we need them, which is very rare, since KLR or GPZ >don't need to adjust clearances very often". Go figure!!! > >Thank you in advance, Fred, and best regards from Pippo in Italy. > > ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #4 **************************