From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #50 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Thursday, April 9 1998 Volume 01 : Number 050 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:57:02 -0400 From: temsley@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: Fwd: (klr650) KHI announces KLR650 replacement Ron, "I think that Kawasaki lists the KLR650 at something like 338 lbs. dry, and we know how accurate that weight is, right??" How much does my bike really weigh? Todd ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:18:05 -0400 From: temsley@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KHI announces KLR650 replacement what is a ps? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:19:48 -0400 From: temsley@ix.netcom.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaust pipes Wayne, I have a COBRA without the bend and don't have any problem with my back fender at all, not even carbon. What I do have is big power. Todd ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:40:52 -0400 From: "Rick Clarke" Subject: Re: (klr650) Carburetor > This would improve the hot starting and make the engine run a little > cooler when idling, but the jet kit also includes a needle that can be > adjusted. Remember that you can buy a needle for a KLX650C and swap it > for yours, this needle is also adjustable and I'm sure it is way less > than a whole jet kit. I have this poor man's jet kit in my '89. It still does the chugga-chugga-chugga thing at low rpm. I've read at least one lister that says the Dynojet kit eliminates this problem. I installed the KLX needle, NT1B, and the lean surge went away. I backed the main down to 142 from the stock 148. I've got the needle on the lowest setting to keep the fuel mileage decent (45mpg). Bike runs almost as good as the 3rd notch. Only small reduction in throttle response. I see in the shop manual that the US model has an N31R needle. The rest of the world (except the Swiss) runs an N31T in the A1, A2 and an N74C in the A3-up. Has anyone tried these needles? - -Rick R.P.Clarke (rpclarke@mindspring.com) "What traffic?" RTP, NC, USA DoD#5811 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:42:47 EDT From: Cloudhid Subject: (klr650) PS/Weight In a message dated 4/8/98 4:59:49 PM, temsley@ix.netcom.com wrote: >Ron,"I think that Kawasaki lists the KLR650 at something like 338 lbs. dry, >and we know how accurate that weight is, right??" How much does my >bike really weigh? what is a ps? Todd PS is a measure of power like KW or HP that Kawasaki uses. The KLR base manual (p.15-8) has a conversion chart. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:44:50 -0400 From: Sham Subject: Re: (klr650) oil drip Brian Vance wrote: it is leaking on the case near the transmission..by the kickstand. It is not a heavy drip, rather a thick, greasy consistency and drips a bit after I ride. Could it be that your chain is dripping the accumulated hot grease after a ride. I know mine does. Which brand of chain lube do you use. It would be interesting to find out. Sham Toronto Dual Sport Club (founder) http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/6602 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:54:15 -0400 From: "Rick Clarke" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: washing your KLR > You guys wash your bikes?????? Sure! My sportbike gets the full zoot treatment after every weekend blitz. The KLR otoh get's hosed off at best, and only then if the mud didn't shake off on the way home. :-) - -Rick R.P.Clarke (rpclarke@mindspring.com) "What traffic?" RTP, NC, USA DoD#5811 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:52:03 -0400 From: Brian Roth Subject: Re: (klr650) oil drip Brian Vance wrote: > I gotta question out there...I just noticed a slight oil leak on my 94 > KLR650. It looks as though it is leaking on the case near the > transmission..by the kickstand. It is not a heavy drip, rather a thick, Could be just the fact that you've got a bit of chain lube built up in the countershaft sprocket area and it's starting to seep out. Brian C. Roth COG #1722, AMA #394789 Middletown, RI 92 Concours 97 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 21:59:57 EDT From: Cloudhid Subject: (klr650) 2nd try.....PS/Weight In a message dated 4/8/98 4:59:49 PM, temsley@ix.netcom.com wrote: >>Ron,"I think that Kawasaki lists the KLR650 at something like 338 lbs. dry, >>and we know how accurate that weight is, right??" How much does my >>bike really weigh? (snip) what is a ps? Todd PS is a measure of power, like KW or HP, that Kawasaki uses. The KLR base manual (p.15-8) has a conversion chart. (e.g., 42 PS = 41 HP). As far as how much your particular bike weighs I wouldn't want to speculate. The listed dry weight is as you say 338 lbs. This doesn't take into account any mods you've done to add or subtract from this, or the variations from bike to bike, or any accumulated mud or dust. James Davis has an excellent article on finding your bikes weight (using a bathroom scale), and also your particular bikes center of gravity. I've never been close to GVW, so I haven't done the math for my bike. I may just to visualize my center of gravity better though. Center Of Gravity - - How to calculate where it is http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesdavis/TIP106.html Ron (who has learned the hard way to work with, not against gravity) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 20:58:50 -0500 From: Jim Barthell Subject: Re: (klr650) oil drip Brian Vance wrote: > I gotta question out there...I just noticed a slight oil leak on my 94 > KLR650. It looks as though it is leaking on the case near the > transmission..by the kickstand. It is not a heavy drip, rather a thick, > greasy consistency and drips a bit after I ride. Anybody familiar with > this....I am thinking perhaps the gasket. Is it difficult to fix....? Mine has done this since new but only when the ambient temperature is very hot and I have lubed the chain. The bike doesn't leak or use oil so I didn't think this was coming from inside the bike. If I remove the sproket cover and clean everything up with WD40 there will be no more dripping. I can ride 200 miles, no drip. put a little oil on the chain and the drip shows up again. - -- Jim Barthell - TX '97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650 FSSNOC #2421 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Apr 1998 21:10:26 -0500 From: Jim Barthell Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaust header paint Ted Palmer wrote: > Jim Barthell, he wrote: > > [my whinge about paint deleted] > > > that PJ1 high temp paint. I guess I can look forward to a gray peeling mess > > in a couple weeks. Hey the good news is it was a simple job. I guess I could > > repaint it every month. > > This could be a good excuse for a ride with the muffler off. Paint the > header, refit it, then do the muffler and while it dries go for a ride. > This way you can show people just how good a KLR can sound, and it shows > you just how restrictive the muffler really is. > My 600-B1 just wants to keep revving, making good power well past 8000. > Makes a beaut party trick, and even neighbours 2 miles away can enjoy > it. Omygosh! I started it as a joke.... the sheer terror on my sons face as he refused to come close to me or the bike thumping away on the centerstand... My wife is laughing hysterically.... Crack the throttle Wimmin and childrn are sure it's gonna blow!...WHAT?!?!? HUH?!?! I CAN'T HEAR... . I turn off the key the engine comes to a stop making a sound like I dropped a rock into the bottom of a well!! Hmmm I don't think so... Maybe I'm a little too old for that. LOL - -- Jim Barthell - TX '97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650 FSSNOC #2421 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:16:48 -0400 From: "Rick Clarke" Subject: Re: (klr650) Chain lubing and detonation > I happened across an couple of articles that had sound advice regarding > chain maintenance and detonation. It may be worth a look. > > > http://www.motorcycle.com/cgi-bin/htimage/imagemap/middle31a.map?437,148 Well this guy has read more about detonation than I have, and best I can tell, he thinks any detonation is a bad thing, period. It's a good article and he provides references. Sounds like I should shelve any argument that pinging is ok in small amounts unless I see some corroborative written proof in a refereed journal. The chain maintenance article doesn't really say much on how to take care of a chain that we haven't already seen many times on various lists. Lube it now and then and don't overtighten. - -Rick R.P.Clarke (rpclarke@mindspring.com) "What traffic?" RTP, NC, USA DoD#5811 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:11:40 -0400 From: "Michael Magnatta" Subject: Re: (klr650) oil drip I gotta second that, it's probably chain lube, mine does the same thing. Mike Magnatta - -----Original Message----- From: Brian Roth To: KLR650 mailing list Date: Wednesday, April 08, 1998 11:00 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) oil drip Brian Vance wrote: > I gotta question out there...I just noticed a slight oil leak on my 94 > KLR650. It looks as though it is leaking on the case near the > transmission..by the kickstand. It is not a heavy drip, rather a thick, Could be just the fact that you've got a bit of chain lube built up in the countershaft sprocket area and it's starting to seep out. Brian C. Roth COG #1722, AMA #394789 Middletown, RI 92 Concours 97 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:33:57 EDT From: LRAB66 Subject: (klr650) Re: lowering my klr anybody heard of a good way to lower the rear of a klr? i'm not worried that i'd lose a small amount of travel cause it's not really a dirt bike anyway but with a 30" inseam and some rough ground it can get clumsy . ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 22:42:39 -0500 From: "alex jomarron" Subject: (klr650) Re: KLE 400 weight The company IS called Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. Alex Jomarron Oak Park, IL 88 BMW K75S 98 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 08:28:06 From: Robert Kaub Subject: (klr650) Disk Brake Good morning. How the hell do you get the pins out of the front disk brake caliper? Thanks. Bob Kaub SUNY Binghamton Watson School Student Shop PO Box 6000 Binghamton, NY 13902 607-777-2715 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 10:02:16 -0400 From: Jan & Diane Williams Subject: (klr650) new owner questions New Owner here. Bought a new '97 KLR650 last week - my first ever dual sport. My wife and I are planning a trip to Colorado this summer to camp and do some dirt (roads, that is). We'll be trailering the KLR so we can get there in the shortest possible time. We've ridden in CO many times, but always on our Concours which kept us mostly on asphalt. We're looking forward to seeing CO from a slightly different perspective. I'd like to tap the collective wisdom of the group on a couple of questions. Any idea's from all you KLR vets out there would be much appreciated. 1. Not specifically KLR related. I have never trailered a bike before. When tying down the bike, how far should the forks be compressed. Is all the way (bottomed out) OK or should one leave a bit of spring in play? 2. Is the Rifle windscreen worth the $? Does it make a whole lot of difference in terms of wind buffeting? I suspect that we will be doing a fair amount of asphalt on the KLR. I have one on the Concours and like it a lot. 3. Who make a good tank bag for the KLR? How about a tail bag or trunk. I suspect that there are quite a few out there, but was wondering if a particular brand or model seems to be a clear favorite. That's it for now - I'm sure I'll be back with more questions - have only 75 miles on the bike! Jan - -- Jan & Diane Williams Forestville, NY jan.diane@ibm.net '95 Concours (COG 29) '97 KLR650 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 08:41:53 -0600 From: Kurt Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions >1. Not specifically KLR related. I have never trailered a bike >before. When tying down the bike, how far should the forks be >compressed. Is all the way (bottomed out) OK or should one leave a bit >of spring in play? If it is a stock bike, it won't be hard to bottom out the forks. I wouldn't compress them that far. I would also add a 2 x4 on both sides of the front wheel (or something more elegant) to keep the wheel in track and I would also secure the back wheel by having some tie-downs in the bed. You are hauling a long distance here. You might want to look at some of the devices that are sold for locking the front wheel without any compression. >2. Is the Rifle windscreen worth the $? Does it make a whole lot of >difference in terms of wind buffeting? I suspect that we will be doing >a fair amount of asphalt on the KLR. I have one on the Concours and >like it a lot. We had a post from a Rifle user in the last couple of days and he was very satisfied with it. A couple of us have opted for the Clearview product..I run a 7" over and a 4" is very popular. In either case you might add Saeng's stealth edging which efffectively increases the effect of the shield by 3-4". >3. Who make a good tank bag for the KLR? How about a tail bag or >trunk. I suspect that there are quite a few out there, but was >wondering if a particular brand or model seems to be a clear favorite. Givi makes a hard bag set-up that people like and would provide a backrest for your wife (optional). Kawa makes soft luggage: I just installed my tank bag last night and it is puny and says its has a 2 lb limit...(I used to pack my tank bag with about 4 bags of groceries on my old CX) but it fits pretty nicely and considering the weird shape of the KLR tank it may be the best bet. A bunch of us who are Aerostitch poster boys have added pannier bags from Riderwarehouse. Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 09:08:23 -0400 From: Bill Wright Subject: (klr650) Tires Hey guys, I got over 5500 miles from the original equipment rear tire on my 98 KLR 650. When I went to the dealer to order an Avon Gripster AM24, he tried to talk me into the AM34 model. It appeared to be even more street oriented than the AM24. He said I would get far more miles from it. I don't know if it would be worth the difference in price. The AM24 was $104.95 and the AM34 was $144.95. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. Bill (5500 miles down 94500 miles to go) Atlanta, GA (hotlanta) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 11:52:47 -0400 From: Vic Norton Subject: (klr650) Re: Combat Touring Boots Last June I walked about 8 miles in my Combat Touring Boots. I left my KLR lying in Kane Creek south of Moab. I couldn't move it. I can tell you I wouldn't want to do that again! But I do really like the boots for riding. Regards, Vic - ------------- At 9:52 AM -0500 4/8/98, Dale Borgeson wrote: > I wouldn't want to go on a hike with them but they are a LOT more > comfortable than other riding boots I've had (Alpinstars, etc.) *--------------------* Sierra Madre Expedition *---------------------* | Vic Norton 1996 ST1100 1992 EX500 HSTA 5992 DOD 43403 | | (419)353-8399 1997 KLR650 STOC 037 AMA 594102 | *--------* http://ernie.bgsu.edu/~norton/moto/sierra_madre97 *-------* ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 10:22:10 -0600 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Combat Touring Boots Vic, This is FUNNY! Guess who found your bike in Kane Creek??? ME!! Do you remember a group of bikes passing you as you were near the highway? That was me and some friends. I figured you were just out for a walk from the rest stop. It was a surprise to see this new KLR on it's side under the water in the creek. It took four of us to get it out. Didn't want some jeep to use it as a ramp. It was pretty full of water, but I got it started and tried to get as much water out of it as I could. Hope you got your oil changed soon. Hope you learned a couple of lessons from this: 1. It's better to ride with a buddy. 2. Tell someone where you are going. 3. Take lots of water and a map(you were a lot closer to the north end of the trail than the south) 4. It's a small world after all! Huh! Fred Hink moabmc@lasal.net Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html - -----Original Message----- From: Vic Norton To: Dale W. Borgeson ; KLR650 List Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 9:58 AM Subject: (klr650) Re: Combat Touring Boots >Last June I walked about 8 miles in my Combat Touring Boots. I left my KLR >lying in Kane Creek south of Moab. I couldn't move it. I can tell you I >wouldn't want to do that again! But I do really like the boots for riding. > >Regards, > >Vic >------------- > >At 9:52 AM -0500 4/8/98, Dale Borgeson wrote: >> I wouldn't want to go on a hike with them but they are a LOT more >> comfortable than other riding boots I've had (Alpinstars, etc.) > > >*--------------------* Sierra Madre Expedition *---------------------* >| Vic Norton 1996 ST1100 1992 EX500 HSTA 5992 DOD 43403 | >| (419)353-8399 1997 KLR650 STOC 037 AMA 594102 | >*--------* http://ernie.bgsu.edu/~norton/moto/sierra_madre97 *-------* > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 12:54:18 -0400 From: tom simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Bill Wright wrote: > > Hey guys, > > I got over 5500 miles from the original equipment rear tire on my 98 KLR > 650. When I went to the dealer to order an Avon Gripster AM24, he tried to > talk me into the AM34 model. It appeared to be even more street oriented > than the AM24. He said I would get far more miles from it. I don't know > if it would be worth the difference in price. The AM24 was $104.95 and the > AM34 was $144.95. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. I have run AM24s and have been happy with their performance. I usualy change them at about 8,500 miles, though I probably could have pushed them an extra 500 or so. However, I spend %99 of my time on pavement, so I was looking for even better durability and went to the Bridgestone S-11 Spitfire touring tire. At 3,000 miles they have been doing well and should outlast the Gripsters by some margin. These were also quite cheap, with MAW putting them on my doorstep for about $75 delivered. The next rear rire will probably be th Avon AM-21 Roadrunner, which has been giving phenominal performance (especialy durability) on a buddys KLR. These are lastiing 15,000-20,000 miles of hard servece. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 15:01:00 -0400 From: "R. K. Dow" Subject: (klr650) Counter balancer adjustment question To adjust the counter balancer, do you have to remove the skid plate? What is the procedure for adjustment? Thanks. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:12:24 +0000 From: Wayne South Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions Regarding hauling a bike, always, always bottom the forks out. If you don't and go over a rough bump the forks compress and the hook quite possibly comes unhooked, the forks then extend and BOING the bike bounces off the trailer and bounces down the highway behind you. Not a pretty picture. Also tie the rear wheel down to the rail or trailer somehow because if you don't it could start boucing and make life somewhat miserable. Wayne... At 10:02 AM 4/9/98 -0400, you wrote: >New Owner here. Bought a new '97 KLR650 last week - my first ever dual >sport. My wife and I are planning a trip to Colorado this summer to >camp and do some dirt (roads, that is). We'll be trailering the KLR so >we can get there in the shortest possible time. We've ridden in CO many >times, but always on our Concours which kept us mostly on asphalt. >We're looking forward to seeing CO from a slightly different >perspective. > >I'd like to tap the collective wisdom of the group on a couple of >questions. Any idea's from all you KLR vets out there would be much >appreciated. > >1. Not specifically KLR related. I have never trailered a bike >before. When tying down the bike, how far should the forks be >compressed. Is all the way (bottomed out) OK or should one leave a bit >of spring in play? > >2. Is the Rifle windscreen worth the $? Does it make a whole lot of >difference in terms of wind buffeting? I suspect that we will be doing >a fair amount of asphalt on the KLR. I have one on the Concours and >like it a lot. > >3. Who make a good tank bag for the KLR? How about a tail bag or >trunk. I suspect that there are quite a few out there, but was >wondering if a particular brand or model seems to be a clear favorite. > >That's it for now - I'm sure I'll be back with more questions - have >only 75 miles on the bike! > >Jan >-- >Jan & Diane Williams >Forestville, NY >jan.diane@ibm.net >'95 Concours (COG 29) >'97 KLR650 > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 17:33:16 -0500 From: Jim Barthell Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions Wayne South wrote: > Regarding hauling a bike, always, always bottom the forks out. If you don't > and go over > a rough bump the forks compress and the hook quite possibly comes unhooked, > the forks then extend and > BOING the bike bounces off the trailer and bounces down the highway behind > you. Not a pretty picture. > Also tie the rear wheel down to the rail or trailer somehow because if you > don't it could start boucing > and make life somewhat miserable. I was told by my service manager I could screw up my suspension by doing this. However what you describe is a real problem. To fix this he said to take a short piece of 2x4 about 6" as I recall and put it long ways between the tire and the bottom of the front fender, just under the triple clamp. then rachet down the tie downs so the springs are slightly compressed but the front end is "bottomed out" between the tire, 2x4 and headpiece. I hauled the bike several thousand miles that way and it seems to work. Anyone else heard of this?? - -- Jim Barthell - TX '97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650 FSSNOC #2421 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 18:55:28 EDT From: Rcklr Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions I hauled bikes over many many miles back in my racing days. We used to put a piece of 2x4 or something equally solid between the front tire and the fender (where it mounts to the triple-clamps). We would cut it to a length that would allow us to pull the forks down to about 1/2 of their travel. The front tire then becomes a piece of the suspension puzzle, I would want to compress the tire "some" (enough that you could see it compress into the tire) so that everything is nice and tight up front. (I have had bikes come off of a trailer because someone was too nervous about compressing the springs.....not pretty!!) Bottom line: Make sure that the tie-downs are at enough of an angle the the bike(s) doesn't move around, and keep the back tied down as well. Do NOT tie the bike against the kick-stand. I know it sounds like something that we should all know, but I see it all the time. Can you spell B-E-N-T--F-R-A-M-E ? Make it look something like this: /\ or wider, NOT TOO NARROW!!! Good luck, it's really not too hard. Look up a racer at the shop, they'll know little tricks of the trade..... MN Ron ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Apr 1998 18:27:06 -0500 From: Robert Carreras Subject: (klr650) IMS Wide Foot Pegs Anyone using IMS Steel Wide Foot Pegs? Recieved some marked for KLX 650 and trying to figure out if I got the wrong pegs or I gotta make 'em fit. Anyone? BoB (97KLR650; TxST1100- still looking for Africa Twin) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 17:07:00 -0500 From: mcpete@juno.com (Peter J McMahon) Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires Bill, I've been using the 24's on other bikes, and just put a pair on my KLR. I have always been happy with them. I don't know about the 34's. I do know that with shipping from M/C Accessory Warehouse, I paid about $130 for both front and rear. Mounted them myself (very easy) and had them balanced. Pete McMahon (Looking to start big discussion about mail order vs dealer!) Bill wrote The AM24 was $104.95 >and the >AM34 was $144.95. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. > >Bill (5500 miles down 94500 miles to go) >Atlanta, GA (hotlanta) > > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 00:20:29 +0000 From: Wayne South Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions I have been hauling dirt & street bikes this way for > 25 years and have never experienced any sort of suspension problems because the forks are bottomed. Regarding putting a block of wood between the wheel and bottom triple clamp, never done it, never seen anyone else doing it. I have also never had a bike come off the trailer! So you make your choice and live with your decision. Whatever you do spend the extra money for good motorcycle tie-downs (Ancra), don't try to use rope, or discount store tiedowns or those rachet type tiedowns for trucks, they will just make you crazy. Wayne... At 10:33 PM 4/9/98 +0000, you wrote: >Wayne South wrote: > >> Regarding hauling a bike, always, always bottom the forks out. If you don't >> and go over >> a rough bump the forks compress and the hook quite possibly comes unhooked, >> the forks then extend and >> BOING the bike bounces off the trailer and bounces down the highway behind >> you. Not a pretty picture. >> Also tie the rear wheel down to the rail or trailer somehow because if you >> don't it could start boucing >> and make life somewhat miserable. > >I was told by my service manager I could screw up my suspension by doing this. >However what you describe is a real problem. To fix this he said to take a >short piece of 2x4 about 6" as I recall and put it long ways between the tire >and the bottom of the front fender, just under the triple clamp. then rachet >down the tie downs so the springs are slightly compressed but the front end is >"bottomed out" between the tire, 2x4 and headpiece. I hauled the bike several >thousand miles that way and it seems to work. > >Anyone else heard of this?? > >-- >Jim Barthell - TX > >'97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650 >FSSNOC #2421 > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 20:39:27 -0400 From: "Bob Zeliff" Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions re: windscreen I looked at the rifle and then went a flexed the stock windscreen and felt that it was not stiff enough to support a longer extension. Not having a lot of money, I ordered a JC Whitney small clear screen for $42.95...$53.45 delivered. It is made by Maier and fits fine. It comes off with a couple of thumb screws, is both taller and wider than the Rifle....and allows full turns lock to lock. Part number is 06xn3910a. I rode to work to day at 36degrees....need some leg sheilds!! Bob Zeliff Bridport Vt. - -----Original Message----- From: Jan & Diane Williams To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 10:01 AM Subject: (klr650) new owner questions >New Owner here. Bought a new '97 KLR650 last week - my first ever dual >sport. My wife and I are planning a trip to Colorado this summer to >camp and do some dirt (roads, that is). We'll be trailering the KLR so >we can get there in the shortest possible time. We've ridden in CO many >times, but always on our Concours which kept us mostly on asphalt. >We're looking forward to seeing CO from a slightly different >perspective. > >I'd like to tap the collective wisdom of the group on a couple of >questions. Any idea's from all you KLR vets out there would be much >appreciated. > >1. Not specifically KLR related. I have never trailered a bike >before. When tying down the bike, how far should the forks be >compressed. Is all the way (bottomed out) OK or should one leave a bit >of spring in play? > >2. Is the Rifle windscreen worth the $? Does it make a whole lot of >difference in terms of wind buffeting? I suspect that we will be doing >a fair amount of asphalt on the KLR. I have one on the Concours and >like it a lot. > >3. Who make a good tank bag for the KLR? How about a tail bag or >trunk. I suspect that there are quite a few out there, but was >wondering if a particular brand or model seems to be a clear favorite. > >That's it for now - I'm sure I'll be back with more questions - have >only 75 miles on the bike! > >Jan >-- >Jan & Diane Williams >Forestville, NY >jan.diane@ibm.net >'95 Concours (COG 29) >'97 KLR650 > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 18:00:39 -0700 From: "Dale J. Voigt" Subject: (klr650) Clearview Hi Can anybody post some contact information for Clearview? Is there a web page to view products? What's the scoop with a 4" over compared to a 7" over? The 7" sounds like it would provide good wind protection. Thanks for the info. Dale ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 20:08:46 -0600 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) IMS Wide Foot Pegs BoB, IMS makes different pegs for the KLX and the KLR so I guess you got the wrong ones. If you go to a dealer that buys from Tucker Rocky tell them you want part # 23-9275. List is $65.20 I've got a set here if anyone needs them. Fred Hink moabmc@lasal.net Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html - -----Original Message----- From: Robert Carreras To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 5:13 PM Subject: (klr650) IMS Wide Foot Pegs >Anyone using IMS Steel Wide Foot Pegs? Recieved some marked >for KLX 650 and trying to figure out if I got the wrong pegs or I gotta >make 'em fit. Anyone? > >BoB (97KLR650; TxST1100- still looking for Africa Twin) > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 22:48:11 EDT From: Cloudhid Subject: (klr650) FWD: Big Yen for KLR - ----------------- Forwarded Message: - -------------- Forwarded Message: Date: Thursday, April 9, 1998 6:21:34 AM From: HWatanabe@nipponnet.jp Subj: Big Yen for KLR To: Cloudhid@aol.com Ron I much very intersted to buy KLR 650 now gone here If yuo find for me we pay to 750,000 Yen new conditon My company pays also all paper and shiping I mising yuor humor frend Hiro Watanabe. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 22:03:57 -0500 From: rycomm@webtv.net (Ry Com) Subject: (klr650) '89 carb problems I am still having some problems with my carb, but I now have a better idea of whats going on (I think) . I have cleaned the tank and air filter, and replaced the fuel lines and added a filter, so I'm pretty sure it's in the carb. The engine runs much better with the choke at the start position, which leads me to believe I have a fuel supply problem. Could this be the floats/bowl wher all the gunk settled and clogged the jet I couldn't get the bike over 60mph or over 4200 rpm though. I took the top cover, diaphram, and spring apart ( looks clean) , but the bottom end seems too complicated for me. I may end up taking the bike to a shop, and have them re- build the carb. I will probably have it re- jetted at the same time. I seem to have lost the recommended jet sizes ect. The only problem with this is the more I spend on this bike, the better a '98 looks. I'm open to suggestions and recomendations. Thanks again Ryan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 13:20:03 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Tires tom simpson wrote: [...] > The next rear rire will probably be th Avon AM-21 Roadrunner, > which has been giving phenominal performance (especialy durability) > on a buddys KLR. These are lastiing 15,000-20,000 miles of hard servece. For road use, I use Metzeler ME33 Laser on the front and Metronic ME55A on the back. These models have been around for a while so are fairly cheap. Before the Metzelers, I used Gripsters (not sure if they were AM24 or 34, this was some years ago). The Gripsters were the best dual-purp tyres I've used on the road. They were quite soft and grippy, yet lasted about 26,000km. I went to road tyres because I kept running out of front side tread on the Gripsters. The ample tread of the Metzelers allows enough lean to scrape the Tengai (rubberised road-bike style) footpegs I use. I would have like to have stayed with the dual-purp tyres on moral grounds, as there is a twisty road near town where I am, where I like to harass sports bikes. Emarassing sporties on the twisties while on duallie tyres adds to the effect. If only I had the brakes to match... BFN, Mister_T - -- \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\ | RC17 KLR600 Roces BCN FreeBSD 2.2.5-R NT4W (ugh) | | tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au | \|_________________________________________________________________| ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 21:27:27 -0600 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) '89 carb problems Ryan, Sounds like you might have a couple of problems with your carb. If it runs better with the choke then one or several jets are clogged or partially clogged. Cleaning the jets doesn't always cure your problem. Sometimes the carb has to be totally taken apart and soaked in a good carburator cleaner. Make sure the float and float needle are working properly and that you have a good supply of gas through the valve. The second problem it sounds to me is your diaphram might have a hole in it. The diaphram is lifted by vacume and with a leak in it, it only gets raised part way. Check your jets and the diaphram and if they all are in good shape then I would suggest getting a repair manual and dissasemble that carb. Then is the time to be putting in that jet kit. Good luck! Fred Hink moabmc@lasal.net Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html - -----Original Message----- From: Ry Com To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 9:06 PM Subject: (klr650) '89 carb problems I am still having some problems with my carb, but I now have a better idea of whats going on (I think) . I have cleaned the tank and air filter, and replaced the fuel lines and added a filter, so I'm pretty sure it's in the carb. The engine runs much better with the choke at the start position, which leads me to believe I have a fuel supply problem. Could this be the floats/bowl wher all the gunk settled and clogged the jet I couldn't get the bike over 60mph or over 4200 rpm though. I took the top cover, diaphram, and spring apart ( looks clean) , but the bottom end seems too complicated for me. I may end up taking the bike to a shop, and have them re- build the carb. I will probably have it re- jetted at the same time. I seem to have lost the recommended jet sizes ect. The only problem with this is the more I spend on this bike, the better a '98 looks. I'm open to suggestions and recomendations. Thanks again Ryan ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Apr 1998 23:36:51 EDT From: Cloudhid Subject: (klr650) Question? Do any Listers out here have todays exchange rates for the Japanese Yen vs. the US $ ? Thankx Ron (too lazy to look it up) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 13:38:41 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) new owner questions Jim Barthell wrote: [...] [2x4 trick deleted] > Anyone else heard of this?? I haven't, but it sounds damn good to me! I'll have to clue up a mate that regularly gets his PE175 dirty. In all the tie-down advice so far, nobody has mentiond releasing air from the forks once the front suspension is compressed. I guess this is one hazard of squashing down the suspension without the good ol' 4x2. Very interesting though. I've never trailered my KLR anywhere (ok, it got trailered home after a bastard opened his car door on me while I was splitting lanes, but that's different). I bought the KLR so I could take the freeway out to the bush, check out the fire trails then ride home. Mister_T - -- \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\ | RC17 KLR600 Roces BCN FreeBSD 2.2.5-R NT4W (ugh) | | tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au | \|_________________________________________________________________| ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 13:54:38 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Counter balancer adjustment question R. K. Dow wrote: > To adjust the counter balancer, do you have to remove the skid plate? I'm not sure about this, but I don't on my 600. > What is the procedure for adjustment? If it's the same as the 600, then remove the rubber plug under the alternaltor case. There is an 8mm bolt head in there. Loosen it a few turns then tighten it back up and replace the plug. That's it. The adjuster is spring loaded inside, by loosening off the bolt you let the spring take up as much slack as it wants. Mister_T - -- \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\ | RC17 KLR600 Roces BCN FreeBSD 2.2.5-R NT4W (ugh) | | tedp[at]replicant[dot]apana[dot]org[dot]au | \|_________________________________________________________________| ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Apr 1998 00:06:21 -0400 From: tom simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Counter balancer adjustment question R. K. Dow wrote: > > To adjust the counter balancer, do you have to remove the skid plate? Its a bit of a pain, but I can do mine without having to remove or loosen my Moose plate. > > What is the procedure for adjustment? 1) Remove rubber plug. 2) Loosen. 3) Tighten. 4) Replace rubber plug. End of procedure. Note: Do *not* overtighten bolt! Just snug it up gently. Otherwise you risk damage to the adjuster mechanisim. This is even more of a risk with the pre-'96 bikes. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #50 ***************************