From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #101 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Tuesday, June 9 1998 Volume 01 : Number 101 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 00:15:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Franklin Subject: (klr650) Haynes response I got the following response back from Haynes. I haven't tried Clymer as I'm not a fan of their manuals. jim >At 11:01 PM 6/4/98 -0800, you wrote: >>Hi...I'm on a mailing list (klr650@lists.xmission.com) for owners of the >>Kawasaki KLR650 (and it's rarely seen brother, the KL650 Tengai). We >>need a manual that's better than the loosely translated factory one. >>Does Haynes have any plans for producing one? >> >>thanks, >>jim >> >> >Dear Sir: >Sorry, the manual you are requesting has not been published by Haynes at >this time and we have nothing on our production schedule.. >Thank You for your interest in Haynes Automotive/Motorcycle Manuals. > >Sincerely, > >Carl Armstrong >Technical Services > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 06:46:30 -0400 From: Bill Wright Subject: (klr650) Front Brake Upgrade! Hey Guys, Just received new pads and the steel braided brake line from Fred. (Thanks Fred for the timely delivery.) Got them installed last night and everything works great! I can just about stand the ol KLR on the front wheel now. I am writing to let everyone know about a 'trick' a friend of mine told me about that I tried. I was commenting to him about the problem with bleeding brakes when installing a new line. The procedure I followed was, before removing brake line loosen the bleeder valve and pump the handle a couple of times. This is to get any dirt out of the valve. Even with the rubber cap you may still have some dirt here. After removing and replacing the brake line I attached a 18 inch length of aquarium air line to the valve and to a 100cc syringe. After filling the syringe, I inserted the plunger and slooowly filled the brake line, and resevoir. This bottom up method seems to work better. I guess air wants to go up anyway. When I did the bleed only 2 small bubbles appeared and the system was rock hard. Just though I would pass it along. The fill and bleed took less than 2 minutes. Bill Wright Hotlanta, GA. 98 KLR650 - 9777 miles ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 12:58:02 +0200 From: "David Andesson" Subject: (klr650) A terrible rattling noise I don't know if this subject has been covered before, but I relly need to know. My '93 klx (with 10 000 kms on the clock) makes a terrible rattling noise when cold. It gets better when the enginge warms up, but it doesn't go away completely. I'm no mechanic, but it sure sounds like a loose chain. It is only present when the engine idles, but then it sounds like as if a handful of nuts and bolts are rattling around in there. I just had it in for it's big 10 000 km overhaul and the shop checked the cam-chain play and that was OK. I now suspect it has something to do with the counter-balancer. My mechanic told me that this device is not adjustable - is this true? I would be very grateful for some advice. Is this something I'll have to get used to? Regards//David ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 05:31:32 -0600 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) A terrible rattling noise - -----Original Message----- From: David Andesson To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 4:58 AM Subject: (klr650) A terrible rattling noise >I don't know if this subject has been covered before, but I relly need to >know. > >My '93 klx (with 10 000 kms on the clock) makes a terrible rattling noise >when cold. It gets better when the enginge warms up, but it doesn't go away >completely. I'm no mechanic, but it sure sounds like a loose chain. It is >only present when the engine idles, but then it sounds like as if a handful >of nuts and bolts are rattling around in there. > >I just had it in for it's big 10 000 km overhaul and the shop checked the >cam-chain play and that was OK. I now suspect it has something to do with >the counter-balancer. My mechanic told me that this device is not >adjustable - is this true? > >I would be very grateful for some advice. Is this something I'll have to get >used to? > >Regards//David > > David, Get a Kawasaki service manual and in it will tell you how to adjust your counter- balancer chain. It is an easy job. Educate your mechanic while you are at it. I hope you meant 10000 Km "tune-up" and not overhaul. Fred Hink moabmc@lasal.net Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 07:13:24 -0500 (CDT) From: "Dale W. Borgeson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Charging system >I need the exact output rating of my 1995 KLR`s charging system before I >can finish some mods I`m doing to my bike. Any help would be greatly >apreciated but no guesses please. The manual says that it's rated at 194 wats at 8000 RPM. I'm not sure how they got that as it redlines at 7500 but that's what they say. Cheers - -- Dale Borgeson dalebor@tiny.net Minneapolis, MN U.S.A. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 07:33:58 -0500 From: Jim Barthell Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fact. Dir. Modification Matthew Duftler wrote: > For anyone who is curious, I got the bulletin # from Kawasaki's Consumer > Services Division. Their number is: 1-714-460-5688. > > The man I spoke with (his name was Richard) was helpful with the exception of > his comment: "Hey buddy, your dealer is an independent business, we can't do > anything. And no, I cannot recommend another dealer, I don't have that kind of > information available." (I got the Cons. Svcs. Div. number from an operator at > Kawi's R-I-D-E number.) There is a blast from the past! For what it is worth... Now there may be more than 1 Richard at Kawasaki's Consumer Services Division. And it is _possible_ the Richard I dealt with 2 years ago is gone and this is a different Richard... but... I got the same kinda attitude when I had the bolts shear off of the muffler on my '95. I was performing the "clean the spark arrestor" service recommended in the service manual. After 1 or 2 turns on the bolts the head sheared right off. Then the easy out sheared off, then drill bit broke off in the muffler and I lost it. I finally took an oversized sheet metal screw and "patched" the mess closed. I took the bolt head to the hardware store and the proprietor said it was not the proper grade for a high temp application, that is when I called Richard. He said send the bolt head to him which I did... reluctantly. He later said the bolt was the one kawasaki engineers had speced for that application and there was nothing he could do because I broke the bolt and the dealer would not have. I said fine and went out and bought my wife a Yamaha. Later I asked my dealer how they performed the Spark Arrestor cleaning on my bike. He said "Oh we never do that" - -- Jim Barthell - TX '97 'C-O-O-O-W'...asaki KiLleR 650 FSSNOC #2421 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:11:27 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fact. Dir. Modification At 07:33 AM 6/9/98 -0500, Jim Barthell wrote: >Matthew Duftler wrote: > >> For anyone who is curious, I got the bulletin # from Kawasaki's Consumer >> Services Division. Their number is: 1-714-460-5688. >> >> The man I spoke with (his name was Richard) was helpful with the exception of >> his comment: "Hey buddy, your dealer is an independent business, we can't do >> anything. And no, I cannot recommend another dealer, I don't have that kind of >> information available." (I got the Cons. Svcs. Div. number from an operator at >> Kawi's R-I-D-E number.) > >There is a blast from the past! For what it is worth... Now there may be more than >1 Richard at Kawasaki's Consumer >Services Division. And it is _possible_ the Richard I dealt with 2 years ago is >gone and this is a different Richard... but... > >I got the same kinda attitude when I had the bolts shear off of the muffler on my >'95. > >I was performing the "clean the spark arrestor" service recommended in the service >manual. After 1 or 2 turns on the bolts the head sheared right off. Then the easy >out sheared off, then drill bit broke off in the muffler and I lost it. I finally >took an oversized sheet metal screw and "patched" the mess closed. > >I took the bolt head to the hardware store and the proprietor said it was not the >proper grade for a high temp application, that is when I called Richard. He said >send the bolt head to him which I did... reluctantly. He later said the bolt was >the one kawasaki engineers had speced for that application and there was nothing he >could do because I broke the bolt and the dealer would not have. I said fine and >went out and bought my wife a Yamaha. > >Later I asked my dealer how they performed the Spark Arrestor cleaning on my bike. >He said "Oh we never do that" > I had comperable sticling problems in my KLRs muffler bolts, though I never wrung one off. When a baffle blew in the first one at it was replaced under warranty, the first thing I did was remove these bolts and coat them with NeverSeize. No problems since. Now, the little that hold the heat shield onto the header is another matter. NeverSieze wasent up to this task and I ended up ordering in some Kawasaki watercraft screws in stainless steel (the only sourse for stainless metric fasteners in town). It was expensive, but it cured the problem. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: 09 Jun 1998 08:27:01 -0600 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (klr650) Re: Lowering KLR >>loosened the fork tube clamps and lowered the front two inches without loosing suspension travel but lost a little tire-to-fender clearance.I've got over two thousand miles with INDICATED speeds up to 95 mph with no noticeable handling problems including off-road.<< I have to really make a statement here. Minor adjustments in front fork tube height are okay for tuning the bikes steering characteristics to your liking. By minor I mean anything an inch or less. Sliding fork tubes 2" up and not compensating by also lowering the rear is not a good idea. Just my opinion. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:37:09 EDT From: Subject: Fwd: (klr650) Re: Lowering KLR This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --part0_897403029_boundary Content-ID: <0_897403029@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII In a message dated 98-06-09 10:27:55 EDT, efpoklu@sandia.gov writes: << >loosened the fork tube clamps and lowered the front two inches without loosing suspension travel but lost a little tire-to-fender clearance.I've got over two thousand miles with INDICATED speeds up to 95 mph with no noticeable handling problems including off-road.<< I have to really make a statement here. Minor adjustments in front fork tube height are okay for tuning the bikes steering characteristics to your liking. By minor I mean anything an inch or less. Sliding fork tubes 2" up and not compensating by also lowering the rear is not a good idea. Just my opinion. >> I have to agree with Gino. I have played with changing the fork height by as much as 1/2 inch, but rarely any more than that. Even in the old racing days, 1 inch was more than we would ever go. Now, if you add the lowering links and go 2" on the forks, you've basically lowered the front by 1/2", which I've played with and like for road riding. Just be careful making big changes to the front of the bike like this, you may not be able to handle the over- steering or under-steering that may appear. IMHO, of course.. MN Ron - --part0_897403029_boundary Content-ID: <0_897403029@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-za05.mx.aol.com (rly-za05.mail.aol.com [172.31.36.101]) by air-za05.mail.aol.com (v43.25) with SMTP; Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:27:55 -0400 Received: from lists.xmission.com (lists.xmission.com [198.60.22.7]) by rly-za05.mx.aol.com (8.8.5/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0) with SMTP id KAA19328; Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:27:43 -0400 (EDT) Received: from domo by lists.xmission.com with local (Exim 1.82 #1) id 0yjPMi-0007JB-00; Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:27:08 -0600 Received: from (sass165.sandia.gov) [132.175.109.1] by lists.xmission.com with esmtp (Exim 1.82 #1) id 0yjPMf-0007Iz-00; Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:27:05 -0600 Received: from mailhub (sass2373.sandia.gov [134.253.181.7]) by sass165.sandia.gov (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id IAA24487 for ; Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:27:01 -0600 (MDT) Received: from x400.sandia.gov by mailhub (X.400 to RFC822 Gateway); Tue, 9 Jun 1998 08:27:02 -0600 X400-Received: by mta mtaSNL in /c=US/admd= /prmd=USDOE/; Relayed; 09 Jun 1998 08:27:01 -0600 X400-Received: by /c=US/admd= /prmd=USDOE/; Relayed; 09 Jun 1998 08:27:01 -0600 X400-MTS-Identifier: [/c=US/admd= /prmd=USDOE/; 0204E357D4635421-mtaSNL] Content-Identifier: 0204E357D4635421 Content-Return: Allowed X400-Content-Type: P2-1988 ( 22 ) Conversion: Allowed Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text Disclose-Recipients: Prohibited Alternate-Recipient: Allowed X400-Originator: efpoklu@sandia.gov X400-Recipients: non-disclosure; Message-Id: <"0204E357D4635421*/c=US/admd= /prmd=USDOE/o=SNL/ou=msmail/s=efpoklu/"@MHS> Date: 09 Jun 1998 08:27:01 -0600 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" To: "klr650@lists.xmission.com" (IPM Return requested) Subject: (klr650) Re: Lowering KLR Sender: owner-klr650@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Pokluda, Gino F" Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit >>loosened the fork tube clamps and lowered the front two inches without loosing suspension travel but lost a little tire-to-fender clearance.I've got over two thousand miles with INDICATED speeds up to 95 mph with no noticeable handling problems including off-road.<< I have to really make a statement here. Minor adjustments in front fork tube height are okay for tuning the bikes steering characteristics to your liking. By minor I mean anything an inch or less. Sliding fork tubes 2" up and not compensating by also lowering the rear is not a good idea. Just my opinion. Gino - --part0_897403029_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:57:36 -0400 From: Peter Dahlheimer Subject: (klr650) highway pegs my peg holes didn't line up perfectly either. being the less than meticulous hack of a "mechanic" that i am, i took a small sledge hammer to the bolt and wala, they fit... 8^) _pete 97KLR650 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 98 08:52:06 PDT From: "Marick Payton" Subject: (klr650) A terrible rattling noise David, Do you have a LKX or a KLR? I don't think the KLX (I just bought one) has a balancer chain. It's gear drive, I believe. Marick From: David Andesson To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Tuesday, June 09, 1998 4:58 AM Subject: (klr650) A terrible rattling noise >I don't know if this subject has been covered before, but I relly need to >know. >My '93 klx (with 10 000 kms on the clock) makes a terrible rattling noise >when cold. It gets better when the enginge warms up, but it doesn't go away >completely. I'm no mechanic, but it sure sounds like a loose chain. It is >only present when the engine idles, but then it sounds like as if a handful >of nuts and bolts are rattling around in there. >I just had it in for it's big 10 000 km overhaul and the shop checked the >cam-chain play and that was OK. I now suspect it has something to do with >the counter-balancer. My mechanic told me that this device is not >adjustable - is this true? >I would be very grateful for some advice. Is this something I'll have to get >used to? >Regards//David David, Get a Kawasaki service manual and in it will tell you how to adjust your counter- balancer chain. It is an easy job. Educate your mechanic while you are at it. I hope you meant 10000 Km "tune-up" and not overhaul. Fred Hink moabmc@lasal.net Arrowhead Motorsports http://cctr.umkc.edu/user/khink/moabmc/index.html ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 10:43:47 -0500 From: waynef Subject: (klr650) Heated grips question I have a '97 KLR on which I recently install the Kimpex heated grips. I used the two spare wires in the faring (the light connection for the european models) as my connection and immediately blew the fuse when I switched the low beam to high beam. Obviously this connection will not carry the load of the grips. Can those of you who are running the heated grips tell me where you made your electrical connection. Also, I'm running a 55W/100W headlight and on rare occasion an electric vest---will the electrical system support these three items? Thanks for the help. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 09:00:08 -0700 From: James Dukes Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated grips question In message <357D5832.F74AEA11@onr.com>waynef@onr.com writes > I have a '97 KLR on which I recently install the Kimpex heated grips. I > used the two spare wires in the faring (the light connection for the > european models) as my connection and immediately blew the fuse when I > switched the low beam to high beam. Obviously this connection will not > carry the load of the grips. Can those of you who are running the > heated grips tell me where you made your electrical connection. > > Also, I'm running a 55W/100W headlight and on rare occasion an electric > vest---will the electrical system support these three items? Thanks for > the help. > I ran a wire directly from the battery, then used the spare Euro light wires to switch a relay that will turn off the grips when the key is turned off. The relay is just an automotive relay from Radio Shack. - -Jim ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:10:23 -0600 From: "Vikram Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) Heated grips question > > I have a '97 KLR on which I recently install the Kimpex heated grips. I > > used the two spare wires in the faring (the light connection for the > > european models) as my connection and immediately blew the fuse when I > > switched the low beam to high beam. Obviously this connection will not > > carry the load of the grips. Can those of you who are running the > > heated grips tell me where you made your electrical connection. > > > > Also, I'm running a 55W/100W headlight and on rare occasion an electric > > vest---will the electrical system support these three items? Thanks for > > the help. I will be running an aerostich electric vest, electric grips and an 80W headlight for extended periods pver the next two days as I cover something like 2400km on my KLR...I'll let you know how the battery holds up. BTW - I have the vest and grips connected directly to the battery. Cheers, Vik ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 10:03:14 -0700 From: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (Francis Smith) Subject: Fwd: Re: (klr650)I'm selling it!!??!! - --WebTV-Mail-1709986134-2310 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT - --WebTV-Mail-1709986134-2310 Content-Type: MESSAGE/RFC822 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT From: jfountain@webtv.net Message-Id: <199806090416.VAA29312@mailtod-152.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Date: Mon, 8 Jun 1998 21:16:07 -0700 To: frjsmithjr@webtv.net (Francis Smith) Subject: Re: (klr650)I'm selling it!!??!! Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) thought I would share this info with all of you first, perhaps you may be able to help me out too. I have decided to sell the KLR. I will once again list all mods done to the bike below and all other neccesary info pertaining to this bike. I was hoping I could get somewhat of an idea as to what I should ask for it from some of you guys(or that one girl I see on here from time to time!) here it goes... 1997 KLR 650 bought new in july of 97 currently has 4,050 miles serviced at 500,1000,3000 miles at dealer most recent oil/filter change at 4000 mi bike has the following aftermarket items 1)moose skid plate(hard anodized black) 2)rally gaurds with spoilers(black) 3)thumper burly pegs 4)MSR shift lever(black) 5)fast line front steel braided brake line 6)russel rear steel braided brake line 7)BRAKING oversize front rotor kit 8)new EBC green compound brake pads (less than 700 mi on both sets) 9)progressive fork springs 10)15 weight belray oil in the fork 11)set of IRC gp110's with less than 700 mi on them- great tires BTW! 12)dyno jet stage two kit installed with K&N air filter and supertrapp rs series 13)kawi tail bag(had it a month) 14)different mirrors(nepco's I think. they are shorter and square instead of the stupid looking stock mirrors) 15)mini stalk turn signals 16)100/80 bulb in front 17)let us not forget the infamous black rims!!! hard anodized(spec3 military)black nipples were stripped and blued by a gun- smithing shop to match rims and not have that horrible gold on black look. 18)moose heavy duty tubes in both ends 19)pro grip gelgrips 20)russel speed bleeders on both brakes I know I have forgot something well, what do you think? jeff - --WebTV-Mail-1709986134-2310-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 11:14:39 -0600 From: Kurt Simpson Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: (klr650)I'm selling it!!??!! > From: jfountain@webtv.net > info pertaining to this bike. I was hoping > I could get somewhat of an idea as to > what I should ask for it from some of you > guys(or that one girl I see on here from > time to time!) here it goes... Kathleen, is this your 15 minutes of fame? > I know I have forgot something > well, what do you think? > jeff Reminds me of another story. A friend told me that he was reading the paper one night, doorbell rang and his wife answered. A young cub scout selling pizzas as a fundraiser. He overhead his wife ask how much they were, and the young scout replied without hesitation in a high pitched squeaky voice, "five thousand dollars." He bout fell off his chair laughing so hard. Seriously Jeff, sorry to hear you are selling your bike. Did that SuperTrapp thing push you over the edge? I like the advice a lister gave to Tim (wasn't it Tim) about two weeks ago when he decided to sell his upgraded bike. Namely, maybe try to sell some of the trick parts to someone who really would appreciate it. It might be hard to fine someone who will give you your money's worth on all of your mods... Kurt A12 (thas'a one expensive pizzaaa pieeee) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 14:23:57 -0500 From: mcpete@juno.com (Peter J McMahon) Subject: Re: (klr650) Haynes response So how about if we send a lot more requests to them? Then maybe they'll see there is a market for publishing a manual for our bikes. I'd be willing to drop them a note. Pete McMahon On Tue, 9 Jun 1998 00:15:35 -0700 (PDT) Jim Franklin writes: >I got the following response back from Haynes. I haven't tried Clymer >as I'm not a fan of their manuals. > >jim > > >>At 11:01 PM 6/4/98 -0800, you wrote: >>>Hi...I'm on a mailing list (klr650@lists.xmission.com) for owners of >the >>>Kawasaki KLR650 (and it's rarely seen brother, the KL650 Tengai). We >>>need a manual that's better than the loosely translated factory one. >>>Does Haynes have any plans for producing one? >>> >>>thanks, >>>jim >>> >>> >>Dear Sir: >>Sorry, the manual you are requesting has not been published by Haynes >at >>this time and we have nothing on our production schedule.. >>Thank You for your interest in Haynes Automotive/Motorcycle Manuals. > >> >>Sincerely, >> >>Carl Armstrong >>Technical Services >> > > _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 13:28:41 -0600 From: Kurt Simpson Subject: (klr650) Kawi Tail Bag FS... I'm selling my Kawi Tail Bag (used 4 times in like new shape). I've found a combo I like better with the Top of the Line Luggage Rack I'm running. How about first $55 I'll pay shipping (that would net about $50)? - -- Kurt Simpson KLR650 A12 OB HawkGT '89 FS XS-650 '77 FS XS-650 '79 FS XS-650 '80 FS Ask me how to subscribe to the KLR Dual Sport Newsletter. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 17:20:16 EDT From: Subject: (klr650) recovery after submerging in H2O? What needs to be done to a bike after it goes down in a puddle? I mean completely submerged! What needs attention while I'm still on the trail before restarting the bike? What can wait til i get home? Steve RXC 620 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 17:30:07 EDT From: Subject: (klr650) changing a tube on the trail I'm a newbie that has never had a flat. Are there any good off-road tire tools out there? Any that have good instructions? Are there any books or videos on basic motorcycle maintanence and repair? Steve RXC 620 (seeking the dahli lama of dual sport) PS I was thinking that if I could ever make it when y'all got together I would try to get an afiable veteran among you to try to hold a basic clinic on topics such as flat fixin'. I'm sure there must be other newbies out there that wouldn't mind throwing a buck or two into the hat of someone who could show us some good tips. I know this is what this list is for, but my ten thumbs require seeing hands-on work in order to emulate. Whatcha think? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 15:54:37 -0600 From: Kurt Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) changing a tube on the trail > I'm a newbie that has never had a flat. Are there any good off-road tire > tools out there? Any that have good instructions? Are there any books or > videos on basic motorcycle maintanence and repair? > > Steve > RXC 620 > (seeking the dahli lama of dual sport) > > PS I was thinking that if I could ever make it when y'all got together I > would try to get an afiable veteran among you to try to hold a basic clinic on > topics such as flat fixin'. I'm sure there must be other newbies out there > that wouldn't mind throwing a buck or two into the hat of someone who could > show us some good tips. I know this is what this list is for, but my ten > thumbs require seeing hands-on work in order to emulate. Whatcha think? Steve, I just used DualStar's: 1) tire irons (2); 2) tire iron/box wrench and 3) rim protectors (2) to change my son's tires on his XL100. I carry an extra tube in a pack or on the front fender (Dual Star, Moose, MSR all make spare tube carriers for this purpose). I also carry a Moto-X pump with 3 CO2 cylinders. A number of riders put slime in their heavy duty tubes as well (don't count on patching these). Here are some tire changing tips and tricks: http://www.net1plus.com/users/holbrook/tireproc.htm - -- Kurt Simpson ("deli" ham...aa) Ask me how to subscribe to the KLR Dual Sport Newsletter. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 18:01:32 -0500 From: "F. Michael Hilton" Subject: (klr650) 98 FOR SALE FOR SALE 1998 KLR 650 KAWASAKI, $4300, 800 miles, with Givi bags, Givi top rack mount, Corbin seat, Acrebis low fender. See photo: http://www.bayou.com/rustonmarshal/downloads/ $4300 all accessories included. - -- 1992 R100 GS 1998 KLR 650 "EL CHIVO ROJO" "WUNDERLUST" THE RED GOAT Mike HILTON >RUSTON, LA >fmhilton@bayou.com Work URL: http://www.bayou.com/rustonmarshal >MSF INSTRUCTOR #85229 >MOA #57447, RA #18953, ABC #2067 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 15:58:51 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Haynes response >So how about if we send a lot more requests to them? Then maybe they'll >see there is a market for publishing a manual for our bikes. > >I'd be willing to drop them a note. > >Pete McMahon HELL YEAH! Give me their email, and I'll start flooding their mailbox. We should try Clymer too, as anything is better that nothing. EVERYBODY on the list should write these companies, to show that there is a consumer demand. Is it possible to find out how many KLR / KLX / Tengai motorcycles were manufactured from 87-98? A few facts always help with the persuasive logic. Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:02:12 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Lowering KLR >I have to really make a statement here. Minor adjustments in front fork >tube height are okay for tuning the bikes steering characteristics to >your liking. By minor I mean anything an inch or less. Sliding fork >tubes 2" up and not compensating by also lowering the rear is not a good >idea. Just my opinion. > >Gino I agree. I think that this would change the steering geometry too much. It would also make reading the sight window for the oil level unreliable, for those of you who only fill to the top mark. Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 16:13:27 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) recovery after submerging in H2O? >What needs to be done to a bike after it goes down in a puddle? >I mean completely submerged! >What needs attention while I'm still on the trail before restarting the bike? >What can wait til i get home? > You're on the trail now? Where do you plug your modem in? Or are you wireless? OK, I'd check for water in the gas, first and foremost. Probably the safest bet here is to completely drain the entire fuel system, including the carb. Next I'd be concerned about water in the crankcase. This will kind of turn your oil milky, so again, the safest bet is to completely drain and replace it, including the filter. Third, check your ignition. Although, unless you pull the gas tank you can't really check the spark at the plug. Fourth, check to make sure you get all of the water out of your air box and dry out your air filter. These are about the most important things I can think of, unless someone else has more ideas? Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 18:20:18 -0700 From: "Dale J. Voigt" Subject: (klr650) Sockets Hi people, Can anyone tell me the head and nut size of the swing arm "pivot" bolt? I don't want to buy a complete socket set that covers sizes in that range. Thanks Dale '93 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 21:17:07 EDT From: Subject: (klr650) Fwd: Re: Motorcycle Rentals This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - --part0_897441427_boundary Content-ID: <0_897441427@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1> Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Conall, I don't know where in Maine you're going, but this place in Quebec Canada, (about 80 miles from Maine) says it's no problem to take their bikes across the US border. Ron (just don't try to squeeze in a trip to Mexico also;) - --part0_897441427_boundary Content-ID: <0_897441427@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> Content-type: message/rfc822 Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit Content-disposition: inline Return-Path: Received: from rly-za05.mx.aol.com (rly-za05.mail.aol.com [172.31.36.101]) by air-za04.mail.aol.com (v43.25) with SMTP; Tue, 09 Jun 1998 20:35:01 -0400 Received: from iteck12.infoteck.qc.ca (iteck12.infoteck.qc.ca [205.151.16.12]) by rly-za05.mx.aol.com (8.8.5/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0) with ESMTP id UAA18089 for ; Tue, 9 Jun 1998 20:35:00 -0400 (EDT) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 20:35:00 -0400 (EDT) Received: from ppp2-123.infoteck.qc.ca (207.253.53.123) by iteck12.infoteck.qc.ca (Worldmail 1.3.167) for Cloudhid@aol.com; 9 Jun 1998 20:35:25 -0400 Message-ID: <355859240001538E@iteck12.infoteck.qc.ca> (added by iteck12.infoteck.qc.ca) X-Sender: joyal454@infoteck.qc.ca X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2 To: From: Rene Joyal Subject: Re: Motorcycle Rentals Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable Hello Ron No, there isn't any. Things would be different, though, for somebody who would like to go to M= exico Ren=E9 At 01.13 09/06/98 EDT, you wrote: > > Are there any restrictions regarding traveling in > the USA when renting a motorcycle from you? > Thank you. > Ron > - --part0_897441427_boundary-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 21:24:01 EDT From: Subject: (klr650) D.S. chat room tonight? what is the address of the dual sport chatroom tonight? Is it 9 or 9:30 Steve ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 21:41:03 EDT From: Subject: Re: (klr650)I'm selling it!!??!! >I know I have forgot something >well, what do you think? >jeff Jeff, I'll take whatever you have in white. CA Ron (el blanco loco) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 19:10:56 -0700 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) recovery after submerging in H2O? Hi all The very first thing I would check for is h2o in the cylinder. If water went into the air cleaner, in through open intake valves and you crank it over you will fold the connecting rod out through the side of the engine case! Pull the plug and crank it over with the plug out. Make sure you disable the coil or plug wire before doing this or the spark will ignite any fuel residue and you will need a fire extinguisher fast. One of my technicians learned this the hard way. Be careful. peace Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 23:22:11 EDT From: Subject: Re: (klr650) D.S. chat room tonight? In a message dated 6/9/98 6:28:39 PM, NILSTIAR@aol.com wrote: Steve, Who are you and what have you done with our NILSTIAR? You're obviously an imposter.....when he finds out you're using his screen name, he's gonna "open up a can of whoop ass on your sweetheart (when "she" gets out, that is)." NZ Ron (<---that's Ron from New Zealand;) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 23:54:10 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) recovery after submerging in H2O? At 04:13 PM 6/9/98 -0700, Jeffrey L. Walker wrote: > > >OK, I'd check for water in the gas, first and foremost. Probably the safest >bet here is to completely drain the entire fuel system, including the carb. >Next I'd be concerned about water in the crankcase. This will kind of turn >your oil milky, so again, the safest bet is to completely drain and replace >it, including the filter. Third, check your ignition. Although, unless you >pull the gas tank you can't really check the spark at the plug. Fourth, >check to make sure you get all of the water out of your air box and dry out >your air filter. > >These are about the most important things I can think of, unless someone >else has more ideas? All good ideas, but the *first* thing you do is remove the spark plug and insure that there is no water in the cylinder. - -Tom '96 non-amphibious KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Jun 1998 23:55:57 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Sockets At 06:20 PM 6/9/98 -0700, Dale J. Voigt wrote: >Hi people, >Can anyone tell me the head and nut size of the swing arm "pivot" bolt? I >don't want to buy a complete socket set that covers sizes in that range. I belive it is a 27mm. You may need to grind down the exterior dimention a bit to get it to fit up in the tube. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Jun 1998 23:16:16 -0500 (CDT) From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) Kawi Tail Bag FS... On Tue, 9 Jun 1998, Kurt Simpson wrote: > I'm selling my Kawi Tail Bag (used 4 times in like new > shape). I've found a combo I like better with the Top of the > Line Luggage Rack I'm running. How about first $55 I'll pay > shipping (that would net about $50)? > -- > Kurt Simpson KLR650 A12 OB > HawkGT '89 FS > XS-650 '77 FS > XS-650 '79 FS > XS-650 '80 FS > > Ask me how to subscribe to the KLR > Dual Sport Newsletter. > > Kurt, I'm interested in the tail bag if you haven't sold it already. $55 sounds like a fair price, so contact me privately be e-mail so we can hammer out the details. Thanks, Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 00:02:35 -0500 (CDT) From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: (klr650) Checking Valves Hello all, I took the plunge today and decided to check the valve clearances on my 91 KLR with 13,500 miles. This was the first time I have ever done anything that involved in an engine, so I was a bit apprehensive. Although I'm not done putting the cover back on the head, I think it went pretty easily. However, there was one point of confusion that was caused by the instructions in the service manual (can't live with it, can't live without it!). When it came time to turn the engine to TDC and look for the T mark on the flywheel, I noticed that there were three different (closely spaced) marks, one was a vertical line (exactly as pictured in the manual), the other was a vertical line with a greek letter U next to it, and the last mark was a vertical line with the letter T (but on its left side). Even though the manual shows the vertical line only in the picture, I aligned it with the sideways T mark because it made the arrows on the cam sprockets parallel with the top of the head. Was I correct in doing this? Any responses from those who have experience in this area (Kurt, maybe?) would be greatly appreciated. Carlos P.S. Although I'm not totally done with the job, it seemed pretty straight forward and I encourage anyone considering doing it to go ahead and do it! If anyone cares the clearances I measured were: RI=.10mm, LI=.10mm, RE=.20mm, LE=.15mm. All within spec! (if I measured it right). ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 10 Jun 1998 01:15:13 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Checking Valves At 12:02 AM 6/10/98 -0500, Carlos Yonan Gonzalez wrote: > >Hello all, >I took the plunge today and decided to check the valve clearances on my 91 >KLR with 13,500 miles. This was the first time I have ever done anything >that involved in an engine, so I was a bit apprehensive. Although I'm not >done putting the cover back on the head, I think it went pretty easily. >However, there was one point of confusion that was caused by the >instructions in the service manual (can't live with it, can't live without >it!). When it came time to turn the engine to TDC and look for the T mark >on the flywheel, I noticed that there were three different (closely >spaced) marks, one was a vertical line (exactly as pictured in the >manual), the other was a vertical line with a greek letter U next to it, >and the last mark was a vertical line with the letter T (but on its left >side). Even though the manual shows the vertical line only in the >picture, I aligned it with the sideways T mark because it made the arrows >on the cam sprockets parallel with the top of the head. Was I correct in >doing this? Any responses from those who have experience in this area >(Kurt, maybe?) would be greatly appreciated. Try using the mark that leaves the cam lobes pointing dead away from the buckets. That'll be the prefered position. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #101 ****************************