From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #156 Reply-To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Thursday, July 30 1998 Volume 01 : Number 156 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 21:55:29 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR: Choking a bike PAT_HENSLEY@HP-USA-om32.om.hp.com wrote: [...] > When you 'choke' a bike and wait for it to warm up, what are you waiting > for? In other words, what is warming up? The whole motor, but we're really hoping to get the oil system flowing properly in a four stroke. Some heat in the cylinder will help fuel atomisation when it's warmed up, and some heat absorbed by the mixture will increase it's pressure. Engines are designed to work properly over a defined temperature range, as is the oil inside them. > Are you waiting for the > engine to generate enough heat to change the density of the air entering > the combustion chamber? Then why don't fuel injected motors need to be > choked? The fuel mix cools the cylinder a bit, and the heat helps to atomise the fuel for a more complete burn. A stone cold motor is likely to have fuel condense on manifold and cylinder internals, throwing the readily burnable mixture weak. Condensed fuel in droplets have a much smaller surface area to react with oxygen when you want it to, burning much slower than can be useful in our motors. Injection is rather different to "choking". But first a bit about "choke". A choke device was originally just a controlled restriction of the carby inlet. As a result of this restriction, more fuel got sucked from the jets than would otherwise. It was crude but it sort of worked. More modern carbies, like the Keihin CVK, use a "enricher" circuit. This is more sophisticated in that a separate fuel jet and air jet feeds a rich and partly mixed fuel combo into the regular intake air over what the carby would normally feed. Injection systems still send more fuel into the motor when it is cold. They can do this by engaging a separate cold-start-only injector (as on my Nissan 280C) or by lengthening the regular injectors' opening cycle. Injection motors mostly make their own decision to "choke" based on the temperature of something like the cooling water, effectively having an auto choke. If you run an injected motor without a thermostat, it may never get off some amount of coldstart enrichment. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:06:01 +0000 From: "Ken Hall" Subject: Re: (klr650) 98 KLR startup Scott Eldredge wrote: > The manual for my 98 says the headlight should not come on until the starter > button is released. Mine comes on as soon as the key is put in the on position, > meaning I must power the headlight while starting the bike. I'd like to here > what other 98's do, and other KLRs. > > Scott Eldredge Mine comes on w/ the key also, like your bike. Ken '98 klr ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 08:55:36 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) 98 KLR startup At 09:26 PM 7/28/98 -0700, Scott Eldredge wrote: >The manual for my 98 says the headlight should not come on until the starter >button is released. Mine comes on as soon as the key is put in the on position, >meaning I must power the headlight while starting the bike. I'd like to here >what other 98's do, and other KLRs. > My '96 starts with the headlight on. Always has. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: 29 Jul 1998 07:34:46 -0600 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: (klr650) Re: BMW Rally Skip, Thanks for the write up on the BMW Rally in Montana. I think you may have underestimated the number of KLR's there, though. I have two friends that went and said there were bunches there. They kept repeating that, too, like they were in disbelief or something. Maybe we are actually becoming a respected group of enthusiasts......nah. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:17:13 -0700 From: Jean Philippe Bagel Subject: RE: (klr650) 98 KLR startup Same for my 98. - -----Original Message----- From: Tom Simpson [mailto:bullet@scsn.net] Sent: Wednesday, July 29, 1998 8:56 AM To: KLR650list Subject: Re: (klr650) 98 KLR startup At 09:26 PM 7/28/98 -0700, Scott Eldredge wrote: >The manual for my 98 says the headlight should not come on until the starter >button is released. Mine comes on as soon as the key is put in the on position, >meaning I must power the headlight while starting the bike. I'd like to here >what other 98's do, and other KLRs. > My '96 starts with the headlight on. Always has. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 10:20:50 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #152 >>> Again, I noted the fact that the *stock* headlight became >>> considerably brighter when I ran the heavier wiring. That indicates >>> to me that the wiring harness is too light even for the factory load. >>> When I added even one 37.5 watt running light...forgedaboudit. >>> I got decidedly brownish light. >>> >>> -Tom >> >>Maybe someone could write something up for the KLR site on how to rewire the >>headlight w/ a 10 gauge wire. >> >>I'm just not sure how to bring it into the ignition, then to the light, so it >>turns on/off w/ the switch. > > > I'll be happy to write it, but not at the moment. Big paper looming at >school. > I believe that the original issue was the alternator output not being adequate, and accessories draining the battery. By using a heavier gage of wire, you have lowered the resistance of the circuit, and thus increased the amps that flow to your headlight, thus putting even more drain on your charging system. Just thought I'd point that out. Jeff ------------------------------ Date: 29 May 98 13:57:00 -0400 From: kris.cichon@gsa.gov Subject: (klr650) Clutch safty switch.. - --UNS_gsauns2_2918029668 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Disposition: inline Hi there .. Well .. we (me and Mariola ) have two identical KLR 98's .. But they are very much different in the way they start. My .. does not require me to shift to neutral prior to start engine --AS LONG AS I HAVE CLUTCH LEVER ENGAGED Mariola's bike however .. require her to shift to neutral and release CLUTCH lever .. every time she wants starter to turn the engine.. Well ..I have checked connections "under a front fairing" .. end did not find any difference .. even wire colors are identical. I wander if we can make Mariola's bike acting the same way mine does...??? or .. do I have to entirely disengage this security switch (bypass it) ..??? Kris&Mariola - --UNS_gsauns2_2918029668-- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 18:22:03 -0500 From: Chadd Thompson Subject: (klr650) Jets. This may be common knowledge already but just thought I would let you guys in on what I found out today about the stock KLR main jet and those in the K&N jet kit. I took the jets to work with me today and measured the hole sizes with calibrated pin gauges. This is what I found. 1. Stock 97 jet = 1.47 mm 2. K&N #136 = 1.36 mm 3. K&N #140 = 1.40 mm 4. K&N #150 = 1.50 mm So from this I guess that you can gather that the gains that you get from installing the K&N Jet kit come from the needle and the mixture adjustment, and that the smaller main jet is the cause of the loss in top speed. So wouldn't the K&N #136 be leaning out at full throttle? I think that I may try putting the stock jet back in and trying to play with the clip setting on the needle. Or just putting the stock needle and jet back in the bike. So why is it that they tell you that you have to get a new jet kit when you install a K&N filter and a new Exhaust? I wish that I understood Carbs better. Thanks Chadd Thompson chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 18:36:15 -0500 From: Chadd Thompson Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #152 At 10:20 AM 7/29/98 -0700, Jeffrey L. Walker wrote: >I believe that the original issue was the alternator output not being >adequate, and accessories draining the battery. By using a heavier gage of >wire, you have lowered the resistance of the circuit, and thus increased the >amps that flow to your headlight, thus putting even more drain on your >charging system. > >Just thought I'd point that out. > >Jeff > > > Jeff, By decreasing the resistance of your wire you are also taking the power that the wire was dissipating and letting it be used where it will do you some good, on your headlight. Your Bulb will only draw as much current as it needs also. If you have a 60W Bulb it will only draw 5A at 12 volts, if you have a 100W bulb it will draw 8.3 A at 12V. The hotter your wires get the more Resistance they will have so the more power you will be wasting across your wire and the voltage drop of the wire will also increase. Kind of a vicious circle. Thanks Chadd Thompson chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1998 03:02:27 +0300 From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?Qt1ST0wgU0FZ?=" Subject: Ynt: (klr650) supertrapp (again) - -----=D6zg=FCn =DDleti----- Kimden: Kurt Simpson Kime: Ryan Combs Bilgi: klr650@lists.xmission.com Tarih: 01 Temmuz 1998 =C7ar=FEamba 18:03 Konu: Re: (klr650) supertrapp (again) Dear List Members, I have technical insufficiency problems with the Kawasaki dealers here in Turkey. I need a KLR650 service manual (very urgent!) If any of the members send = a copy to me anyway (snail-mail, FAQ, e-mail, fax) I'll be more than happy = and pay all the expenses. Money is nothing, believe me I'm in love with my KLR(Hope my wife doesn't read this). Thank you all. Birol Say e-mail: saymer@superonline.com fax: +90 216 3275112 address: Birol Say,M.D. Kosuyolu, Halili sok., #10, Kadikoy 80020 Istanbul Turkey by means o ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:13:53 -0700 From: Tom Simpson Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #152 At 06:11 PM 7/29/98 -0400, Jeffrey L. Walker wrote: >>>> Again, I noted the fact that the *stock* headlight became >>>> considerably brighter when I ran the heavier wiring. That indicates >>>> to me that the wiring harness is too light even for the factory load. >>>> When I added even one 37.5 watt running light...forgedaboudit. >>>> I got decidedly brownish light. >>>> > >I believe that the original issue was the alternator output not being >adequate, and accessories draining the battery. By using a heavier gage of >wire, you have lowered the resistance of the circuit, and thus increased the >amps that flow to your headlight, thus putting even more drain on your >charging system. I wouldnt think so. All those electrons stacking up in the wiring would find excape in the form of heat, if I recall my highschool physics class correctly. - -Tom '96 KLR 650 w/ warm-ish wiring. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 19:48:56 -0700 From: "Dean Harrison" Subject: (klr650) Progressive spring part number Can someone help me out with a simple damn question. I guess it's going to be one of those days. I went to install the new springs I'd ordered. When I went to be sure I have the right ones, the following arose: Motorcycle Accessory warehouse sent spring #11-1128 KLR tech tips article says the spring is #11-128 Progressive web site says number is #11-1151 You have to download their whole stinking program to check out one lousy application. Anyway , 'Audience says?' Thanks in advance, Dean in Seattle ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:25:57 -0500 From: Chadd Thompson Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive spring part number At 07:48 PM 7/29/98 -0700, Dean Harrison wrote: >Can someone help me out with a simple damn question. I guess it's going to >be one of those days. I went to install the new springs I'd ordered. When I >went to be sure I have the right ones, the following arose: > > >Motorcycle Accessory warehouse sent spring #11-1128 > >KLR tech tips article says the spring is #11-128 > >Progressive web site says number is #11-1151 > >You have to download their whole stinking program to check out one lousy >application. > >Anyway , 'Audience says?' > >Thanks in advance, Dean in Seattle > > Dean, The correct # is 11-1128 you have the right ones :O) BTW what I did to ensure the correct oil level was to measure the amount of fluid that I took out of the shock then put back in the same amount and also measured the oil hieght according to the service manual. The oil level should be about 5.5 inches from the top of the fork tube. I think that you will be happy with the new springs. Thanks Chadd Thompson chadd@accessus.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:43:03 -0500 From: "Bryce Hysjulien" Subject: (klr650) KLR Trailer The mechanics at the local Kawasaki shop told me that they had a KLR come through that was pulling a trailer. The bike had 31,000 on it. I think they said the owner needed a rear tire but I'm not sure. Was anyone on the list? If anybody has any ideas on how to mount the hitch let me know. I'm going to build a small trailer as soon as ND gets buried in snow but haven't come up with any good ideas about the hitch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Bryce 98 KLR ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 22:56:23 -0600 From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) Jackets Jeff stated; >Gortex will keep you dry up to a point...but after a while....the fabric >becomes saturated and stops being water resistant. You get wet under, and >lose some insulation as well. Don't get me wrong, we were glad to >50 + mile commute (one way). I still wear my Army Gortex rain pants with >the Kilimanjaro, because I haven't been able to afford the First Gear pants >yet. The pants become saturated and soaked especially from the knees down Jeff, I know this is a late response, but I`ve been off-line a couple of weeks.I don`t know if this is of any use to you, but with my other riding pants I was having the same wet below the knees problem until I got out my Cat-o-ninetails and made my wife make me some over the knee gators. You can make them out of Cordura or any relatively water resistant fabric. They don`t have to completely waterproof as the main function is to stop the rain from impacting the Gore-Tex. I had some old rubber coated nylon rain pants with elastic bottoms that we cut off to the right lenghth and sewed additional elastic to the top so I just slide them on. They also work great those times when it`s not raining but the road is wet and spraying your legs. My wife is not the most competent on a sewing machine (since I refuse to partake in such menial domestic chores,OUCH! never mind) What I meant to say was since my wife is such a superb seamstress it only took her Highness about 15 minutes to do it and they work well. Also I see that Dennis Kirk has a similar set up in their Street bike catalogue. On the Gore-Tex, I found out quickly when I first tried it in Alaska that when it becomes dirty, it quits breathing and will even sometimes pass water through. Hope this helps. - -Skip (Who is fortunate to be married to such a talented, fine example of womanhood) she`s gone, she made me say that ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1998 23:27:08 -0700 From: "Jeffrey L. Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive spring part number > > The correct # is 11-1128 you have the right ones :O) BTW what I did >to ensure the correct oil level was to measure the amount of fluid that I >took out of the shock then put back in the same amount and also measured the >oil hieght according to the service manual. The oil level should be about >5.5 inches from the top of the fork tube. I think that you will be happy >with the new springs. > > You can't use the same amount of oil with the Progressive springs as with the stock springs, as the Progressive springs displace more oil. The important figure is the distance from the top of the (compressed ) fork to the oil level inside with the new spring installed. On my bike, an '89, the fork oil level is 190 mm, which converts to 7.5 inches. I know that the Progressive instructions say to set the fork oil level at 5.5 inches, but they also say to set the fork oil level in accordance with the factory level for the bike. Personally, I played it safe and set mine at 6.5 inches, halfway between the Progressive figure and the factory figure. No complaints, but I think that I might change to a heavier viscosity oil soon, due to my weight. Jeff ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #156 ****************************