From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #345 Reply-To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Wednesday, November 4 1998 Volume 01 : Number 345 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 08:57:59 -0500 From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) KLR Fuses The 10amp fuse sitting next to the 20amp fuse also protects the head light circuit. I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was going to use automotive blade type fuses. After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a lot of weather and water there. Since I have never had a fuse blow I guess I'm "okay" with leaving them were they are. One good point someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. Bill ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:55:50 -0000 From: Ian Ellison Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #337 I was considering a sheepskin seat cover for longer rides on the Tengai. Has anyone any ideas where I could get an example of the model shown below? http://www.2wf.com/html/pictureoftheday/nzdate.shtml Cheers! Ian Ellison Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge Don't be left out - sponsor me NOW! http://www.poptastic.com/iane/ for more info ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 12:07:44 -0500 From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Lowering Links Kit I just posted an article on the KLR650 Web Page by Gino on the Quality Engine R&D Lowering Links Kit. Check it out at: http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page5.html Bill ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:54:54 EST From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: (klr650) RE: klr650-digest V1 #337 Ian, LOL!!! I went by a few of those riding the KLR a coupla days ago...Hmmm, maybe I could get you a deal on one from the farm owner! Hilarious post! Thanks, Bill Swindle A12 Montgomery, IL ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:46:36 EST From: Cloudhid@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust, more specs snip >...claiming up to 8 Horsepower gains for the KLR with their exhaust... I just got off the phone with Mike Young, (aka Big Gun). The latest guess is that the klr pipes will be ready to ship by Friday the 13th. The hang ups in the past have been the sound level and dialing in the optimum match between the head pipe and the exhaust port. In previous conversations Mike allowed that the 8hp gain requires more than just his exhaust system. To match the freer flowing exhaust, you'll at least need to rejet the carburetor and get an easier breathing air filter. Today he offered the decibel ratings of 98db without the spark arrestor and 92db with. The pipe comes with a one year warranty. http://www.off-road.com/~myoung/ Redondo Ron (who's hoping to get lucky by Friday the 13th) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:06:20 -0600 (CST) From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! Hello guys, Got the cylinder and piston out! I couldn't find a valve spring compressor from friends that worked so I just gave the head to the local shop so they can replace the the oil seals and lap the valves. It shouldn't be too expensive. Got a question though, is using oven cleaner to clean a the carbon off the piston safe, is it effective? Carlos Milwaukee, WI ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:17:10 -0600 (CST) From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) Dual Star Stand problem I got a call from Mike at Dual Star today. He was very helpful and he asked me to send the stand back to him at my convinence so he could take a look at it and try to determine the problem. Carlos ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:23:22 -0800 From: "Corcoran, Jon M (Mike)" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR NX 650 Advice David, I've got an 88 that I've made into an adventure tourer and love it. Don't have any advice if you plan on using it much in the dirt. Mine's meant to be a fire-road tourer for Alaska & I'm still in love with it after a year of modifying and riding. In response to Rob: (:> (:>It had a few problems. Wide throttle below 3.5k rpms (:>brought worrisome (:>engine clanks and knocks and big handlebar vibration, and (:>the mirrors were (:>always blurred during accelleration. I notice the same engine noises. Think it's the radial actuated valve head and normal. Not horrible, just noticeable have negligible handlebar vibration with stock exhaust and mostly stock carb. I do have aluminum bars mounted. The (:>carry rack was (:>too small, and (if memory serves) was made of black plastic, (:>so I couldn't overload it. Think the rack is pretty much the same size as the KLR's. It is supported by the tubular steel rear fender supports & very strong. As with the KLR650, the headlight was fixed in (:>a fairing, but (:>was even harder to adjust. Yep. Have to do a bit of fairing removal to get at it. It accepts standard halogen upgrades. If the NX650 (:>you're considering (:>is straight, has lowish mileage, and looks good/rides good by your (:>standards, buy it. Agree. Make sure suspension and fairing are in good shape. Parts are hard to come by in the states(Can get things from the UK). If I didn't have my KLR650 (a superior (:>bike, due to (:>liquid cooling, more power, better-engineered- [I believe] (:>for-durability (:>power train, and larger tank), I'd still be trying to find (:>an NX I could (:>buy. Well, I chose the NX because of price and air-cooling(simpler, no chance of broken radiators ruining a trip, but maybe less top end life) As for the tank, Acerbis has one, but only available directly from the US distributor. It's about 6 gallons. One thing Rob neglected was the seat. The stocker is dirtable, but pretty narrow for distance riding. I had mine re-shaped & covered by Sargents. Oh, the front brake is a 2 pot caliper, so it's likely a better stopper than the KLR. Rear will likely be a drum. I paid $1900 for mine. It had suspension mods by Progressive(front) and WP(shock). Engine had less than 10K. I've done the seat, windscreen, seat and frame stiffener/bag supports. For $2500 I have an NX that's pretty much the functional equivalent of a KLR. Just be real picky about the shape it's in. A fixer could be a bad trip... Hope that helps. Mike Corcoran (:> (:> (:>>I have the chance to buy a 1989 NX 650 (:>>for around $1600. I know at least one person (:>>on this list had one of these. Can anyone tell (:>>me about this bike and if that sounds like a (:>>good deal? (:>> (:>>Thanks, (:>> (:>>David M. King (:>> ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:29:59 -0700 From: Bogdan Swider Subject: (klr650) To: "'klr650@lists.xmission.com'" Listoids: My last chain driven bike, a Suzuki Water Buffalo, left my hands in 74. This is my first relationship with an O Ring. My chain, the original, has 18.5k. I've only had to adjust it once in the 14.5k I've owned the beast. I did an informal stretch test it seems fine. The rear sprocket is also still O.K. The front sprocket is a different story. It's lost all semblance of symmetry. Is it sacrilegious to replace only the offending unit? Everything I read or here says a set of sprockets should outlast 2 chains. Should I replace the entire system? Is that D.I.D X all that it's advertised to be? Bogdan, Accused of being the missing link. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:35:48 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Messsage forwarded to list... >>From mkellis@harbornet.com Wed Nov 04 12:20:37 1998 >As a new member and a new KLR owner, I have a problem and need advice. > >While working through my "new" '94 KLR and checking the valve settings (one >of them badly wrong), I managed to drop one of the little sleeves that fit >into the cam pillowblocks down along the cam chain and and into the sump. >What is the best way to recover it?? I have the manuals on order, but I >don't know when they will get here. > >It's an interesting list...I've lurked on it in the past before I finally >sprang for a KLR. Now I just have to get it back together so I can learn >more before winter really sets in. > > >Hugh Stout >'74 R90/6 >'78 CB400T2 >'94 KLR650 > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 08:22:40 +0800 From: Linus Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Fuses Here`s a small tip Bill.I recently changed my starter relay,but opted for a Kawi Vulcan 800 part because of it`s similarity in construction and ratings.There was a blade fuse (10amps) pre-fitted on it with input and output terminals made probabaly for the Vulcan 800 headlights. So you just have to reroute the existing KLR headlamp wiring through that fuse. As you know the starter relay SW is located at an easy to get place(just below the fuel tank),so no probs in replacing the fuse. Linus KLR-Tengai 90 At 08:57 AM 04-11-98 -0500, you wrote: >The 10amp fuse sitting next to the 20amp fuse also protects the head >light circuit. > >I considered moving my fuses to a spot behind the plastic cover on the >left side of the bike that covers the side stand mechanism - was going >to use automotive blade type fuses. > >After looking closely at that location for the fuses I decided against >the plan as I am concerned it is too far down the bike and will take a >lot of weather and water there. Since I have never had a fuse blow I >guess I'm "okay" with leaving them were they are. One good point >someone brought up is the fact that if the 10amp fuse does blow (at >night) one is left without lights on the side of the road while one >tries to remove the rear seat and replace the 10amp fuse. I might >reconsider and move the 10amp fuse only down to a location were I can >get to it easily without removing any plastic and the seat. > >Bill > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 19:35:46 -0500 From: Sconzo Subject: Re: (klr650) Fuses Kurt Simpson wrote: > On a similar note...don't trust that your stock tool kit includes the wrench > you'll need to remove the front wheel...it is not to be found.... > > I heard that Kurt! I just got back from a trip up to the Daniel Boone National Forest. My experiences up there revealed that the KLR tool-kit was almost useless in the back country. One of the guys I was riding with, had a Leatherman Multi-tool, and I never let him out of my sight after my carb float got stuck (did this twice after some mild jumping) and a couple of times dropping my sweetheart (the KLR). Needless to say I have purchased the "Leatherman Wave" for my own personal use. It is a fine tool, but lacks a measuring stick on the handle which was handy up in Kentucky. I'll try to post something about the trip soon. Scott in Orlando-A12 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:46:10 -0800 From: "Eric Rhoads" Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Exhaust, more specs > Today he offered the decibel ratings of 98db without the > spark arrestor and 92db with. The pipe comes with a one > year warranty. >>>>>>>>>> Hi Ron! ....would y'all happen to know what the db rating is for the standard pipe? There's an important item to consider here. The readings need to be taken from the same point in space....as like 12" centered behind the bike at a height of 36". If there's no consistency in taking the measurement then any db rating is just about meaningless. I would know about this based on my many years of speaker building. eric ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:52:53 -0500 From: don roger Subject: RE: (klr650) Messsage forwarded to list... Two suggestions: 1. try to flush it out by putting in the drain plug if its out, adding = oil, then draining the oil. If there is oil in the bike now, drain this = oil. In any event you need some kind of sieve to catch the sleeve so you = don't have to paw around in the oil looking for the thing. Good luck! 2. Failing that, take off the left side cover and look in the bottom of = the sump. This is much harder! look in the manual and make sure you're = up to it before you start. Don R - -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson [SMTP:ajax@xmission.com] Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 1998 5:36 PM To: klrlist Subject: (klr650) Messsage forwarded to list... =20 >>From mkellis@harbornet.com Wed Nov 04 12:20:37 1998 >As a new member and a new KLR owner, I have a problem and need advice. > >While working through my "new" '94 KLR and checking the valve settings = (one >of them badly wrong), I managed to drop one of the little sleeves that = fit >into the cam pillowblocks down along the cam chain and and into the = sump. >What is the best way to recover it?? I have the manuals on order, but = I >don't know when they will get here. > >It's an interesting list...I've lurked on it in the past before I = finally >sprang for a KLR. Now I just have to get it back together so I can = learn >more before winter really sets in. > > >Hugh Stout >'74 R90/6 >'78 CB400T2 >'94 KLR650 > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:57:30 -0500 From: don roger Subject: RE: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? Although this note started looking at this swap from the other direction = (making a Tengai Taller) I'm interested to know if the Tengai-into-KLR = shock swap is a better idea than the lowering kit. More expensive yes, = but is it better from the point of rear linkage geometry and the = possibility of driving the tire into the fender with a hard impact? Don R=20 - -----Original Message----- From: K650dsn@aol.com [SMTP:K650dsn@aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:15 PM To: linus@sem.my.sony.com.sg; klr650@lists.xmission.com Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR650 shock into a Tengai? In a message dated 11/2/98 5:17:09 PM Mountain Standard Time, linus@sem.my.sony.com.sg writes: << Could anyone tell me whether a KLR650 89 rear shock goes into a = Tengai 90. I have heard that the Tengai rear shocks have a shorter travel compared = to the KLR650. >> Tengai's not only have a shorter shock, but it is a better quality unit = also. They will bolt straight into a KLR, but you will have to lower the front = to get the geometry back in sync. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:41:01 -0700 From: Tony Subject: Re: (klr650) RE:KLR electrics No, I dont work for Kawasaki and I havent derated my bikes fuses. Fortunately, they dont ever blow. But if one did consistantly, for no apparent reason, I might hook up a current meter and measure at peak curent demand (turn on the signals, fan, head lamp on high beam and maybe honk the horn. But I think I would just up the fuse value to the next size. If it blew again, then that would certainly get my attention. To think that youre going to blow up your battery for going to the next larger size fuse, or cause a fire from melting wire, is unrealistic. Your larger fuse will surely blow long before this happens. This kind of thing happens when you bypass your fuse. I know that this is not what you are implying or asking. Just general info for the un-in-formed. Tony Stuart Heaslet wrote: > Aside from wiring reliability (useful lifespan) issue, have you calculated > the shortfall in the factory-designed fuse values, taking into > consideration the external factors you mentioned? > > Best, > > Stuart > 1998 KLR650 > > At 10:47 PM 11/3/98 -0700, Tony wrote: > >It sounds like the Kawasaki engineering dept. has under rated their > >fuses. > >.... If you keep blowing fuses, for no reason, up its value to the next > >larger size. Typically, if there is ever a problem with your electrical > >system, like a short, it will pull much more current than your over > >sized fuse will allow. It will then blow like it should. > >Manufactures like Kawasaki select fuses so that they are just rated > >above the circuits typical current demand. They may not always take > >heat or vibration into their current ratings. As far as mechanical / > >thermal breakers, I would not recommend them. They are much slower to > >open / blow, in the event of a miss hap, and they are more prone to > >vibration stresses. Also when they go bad, it will be harder to replace > >than a common fuse. ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #345 ****************************