From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V1 #356 Reply-To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Friday, November 13 1998 Volume 01 : Number 356 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 09:53:58 -0600 (CST) From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez Subject: Re: (klr650) I'm taking her apart! On Thu, 12 Nov 1998, Fred Hink wrote: > Congratulations on getting your bike back together right! I would think > that 500 easy miles would have the rings back in good shape. What did you > use to break the glaze on your cylinder? Did you check the wear on the > piston or cylinder? > Fred Thanks Fred. As far as honing the cylinder and relpacing the oil seals, I broke down and had my local dealer do it for about 50 bucks (they lapped the valves too). It's a shame considering that this was the work I was looking forward to do, but all of my leads for tools fell through, and I was on a schedule (I was in my dad's garage). I made sure to tell the shop to hone the cylinder with a bead type honer. A mechanic friend that I trust told me that to check the cylinder all that was really necessary was to run your fingernail up until the point where the piston stops and returns on top and on the bottom. If you feel a lip there, then you should measure it. I felt nothing, and I also saw the old honing marks pretty clearly. Actually I think the culprit with the oil burning was the oil seals, as the cylinder surface and the old rings looked pretty clean. On a promising note, I just changed the oil and let the bike idle for about 10 minutes, and when I checked the oil it was the still the same honey color. Previously running the bike any amount of time with new oil would turn it black as night. I think this means that the oil isn't being contaminated by the combustion (if I'm way off, somebody tell me). In any case I won't know for sure until I put some serious miles on it. Take care, Carlos (Milwaukee) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 09:25:04 -0800 From: Jean Philippe Bagel Subject: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... Hi everyone, Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the indicated level, and screw back? On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. Anyone needs anything special? Thx in advance. - -JP ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 12:35:43 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... - -----Original Message----- From: Jean Philippe Bagel To: 'klr650@lists.xmission.com' Date: Thursday, November 12, 1998 10:30 AM Subject: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... >Hi everyone, > >Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really >brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. >Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? >>From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I >wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the >indicated level, and screw back? Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake pad that you have worn off. It is normal. When you replace your worn out brake pads with new ones expect just the reverse, the excess brake fluid will go back into the master cylinder. If you want to change the fluid you will have to bleed out any air that will get into the system. Just adding brake fluid is an easy job unless you already have air in your system. >On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make >sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. >Anyone needs anything special? I'll take a Swedish Masseuse... ;<) >Thx in advance. > >-JP > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:21:18 EST From: VFR754@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Update on 99' KLR clankshaft noise In a message dated 11/12/98 6:47:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, James F McFaden writes: << I think I'm going to trade it in for a DR650SE. It's 20 pounds lighter, has >dual piston brakes and you can't hear it coming a block away. >Jim in Dallas >> The DR650SE feels so small when I sit on it after sitting on the KLR. There are 3 dealers around here that have used ones for sale right now. They always do; it seems to be a bike a lot of people trade in for some reason??? Feels like a 350 to me compared to the KLR. No tach, itty bitty tank, yellow & purple, Skinny seat Just seems like more of a dirt bike. But......I guess if more of dirt bike is what your looking for, then it's great. Sure gets good reviews, except in the touring department of course, which the KLR rules in for true affordable Dual Sports. I guess I just like more of a bigger feeling bike for long trips. As for the clanky engine. The nature of the beast. We gotta live with it, or put a louder pipe on it (save weight too) so we don't notice it as much! Mine only makes that noise under 2 grand when I take off. Certainly is annoying, but as long as it's nothing wrong, why worry or trade bikes because of it? I can definitely understand how you feel though, as I got rid of my Concours much in the same way. The bike just annoyed me to no end, and I either had to get something else, or just not ride. Most Concours owners love em' because of the value for price.. After owning one, I just couldn't see the attraction. So.......in other words...I can relate. Bill S. A12 Montgomery, IL. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 12:35:43 -0700 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... - -----Original Message----- From: Jean Philippe Bagel To: 'klr650@lists.xmission.com' Date: Thursday, November 12, 1998 10:30 AM Subject: (klr650) Front brake is almost gone... >Hi everyone, > >Yesterday my front brake lever needed to be pulled way too much to really >brake. I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for commuting. >Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid to just "vanish"? >>From what I could read, it doesn't look too tough to change fluid. Am I >wrong thinking you simply need to unscrew the cover, fill it up to the >indicated level, and screw back? Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake pad that you have worn off. It is normal. When you replace your worn out brake pads with new ones expect just the reverse, the excess brake fluid will go back into the master cylinder. If you want to change the fluid you will have to bleed out any air that will get into the system. Just adding brake fluid is an easy job unless you already have air in your system. >On another subject, I'll be in Europe for the next 3 weeks, and I'll make >sure to bring back some nice brochures on the Dual Sports they have there. >Anyone needs anything special? I'll take a Swedish Masseuse... ;<) >Thx in advance. > >-JP > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 16:05:24 EST From: Ztib@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Chicago area KLR riders Confirming my intent to be at the Wauconda Main St. Cafe at 9am this Sat. -- hope to meet others. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 13:41:16 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Re: Front brake is almost gone... >>I took a look at the fluid level, and sure enough it was almost all >>gone. I've had my bike for a year or so, and use it mostly for >>commuting. Lots of braking, but still.. is it normal for the fluid >>to just "vanish"? >Your brake fluid "vanishes" into the calipers to replace the brake >pad that you have worn off. It is normal. A month or so ago, I noticed that the fluid levels (front and rear) were both at the bottom line. Since I was planning on doing the brakes that weekend, I let it go until then. I did the brakes (simple job, really), and found the fluid in both was right at the top line. On my bike, anyway, the fluid level is a pretty accurate brake wear indicator. So, unless you have a leak, you probably need new brake pads. If you're a year-round commuter like me, a year is about right. It's a half hour job, and I recall spending about $25 for the pads. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:22:52 -0700 From: bruixot@rmi.net Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - fairing wanted Some folks have in the past mentioned parting out and having stuff left over: - -- Does anyone in the US have a spare fairing, of any color, which would fit a 98 KLR650, for sale cheap? tanks rr ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:05:54 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR - fairing wanted >-- Does anyone in the US have a spare fairing, of any color, which >would fit a 98 KLR650, for sale cheap? Speaking of fairings, does anyone make a "real" full fairing for the KLR650? Something that is suitable for touring. Given that the stock minifairing is held on with two bolts, it shouldn't be all that difficult to swap. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 17:10:07 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb Has anyone replaced the stock headlight bulb with something more powerful? I'd like to keep low beam to 55W, and crank high beam up to around 100W. Has anyone had charging problems with extended running with the higher current drain of extra lighting? ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 12:05:15 -0800 From: Bev Blair Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V1 #353 Please take my e-mail address off your list. Thank you very much. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:43:31 -0500 From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) All this brake talk I see several listers contemplating brakes in the upcoming days, weeks, months... Handy your trusty 6mm allen wrench (or splurge for a socket mounted allen wrench-helpful in busting the tenacious bolt lock) for caliper removal. Additionally, Bill Wright (of Hotlanta fame) posted an interesting *trick* back in June-HERE IT IS!!! I am writing to let everyone know about a 'trick' a friend of mine told me about that I tried. I was commenting to him about the problem with bleeding brakes when installing a new line. The procedure I followed was, before removing brake line loosen the bleeder valve and pump the handle a couple of times. This is to get any dirt out of the valve. Even with the rubber cap you may still have some dirt here. After removing and replacing the brake line I attached a 18 inch length of aquarium air line to the valve and to a 100cc syringe. After filling the syringe, I inserted the plunger and slooowly filled the brake line, and resevoir. This bottom up method seems to work better. I guess air wants to go up anyway. When I did the bleed only 2 small bubbles appeared and the system was rock hard. Just though I would pass it along. The fill and bleed took less than 2 minutes. HTH Jake (who, sadly enough, indexes ALL pertinent posts for just this reason) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:22:56 -0600 From: Alan Henderson Subject: (klr650) shift lever shot Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 00:30:32 -0500 From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot I believe IMS one of only a few (possibly two) who fit KLR shifters. Mine did the same spineless act and I had a welder run a bead down the backside of the lever and strengthen the union between the spline block and lever arm. Ugly as sin but nearly bomb-proof- I Carry it now as a spare & run the IMS full time. I think I got my IMS thru Chaparral for approx. $20. Jake Alan Henderson wrote: > > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 00:32:49 -0500 From: "J.Taylor" Subject: Re: (klr650) shift lever shot Almost forgot: http://www.imsproducts.com Jake Alan Henderson wrote: > > Well after 1066 miles on my A13 my shift lever broke at the weld and I had > to ride home in second gear. Fortunatly I was only 3 miles from home. I am > getting a replacement under warranty but would like to buy a high quality > after market lever also. I thought I had seen some mention of a source but > searching past letters turned up nothing. Thanks Alan Henderson, Iowa A13 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:11:33 -0700 From: "skip faulkner" Subject: Re: (klr650) More powerful headlight bulb >Has anyone replaced the stock headlight bulb with something more >powerful? > >I'd like to keep low beam to 55W, and crank high beam up to around 100W. > >Has anyone had charging problems with extended running with the higher >current drain of extra lighting? > Paul, I`ve was running a Philips 55W/100W for over 5000 miles before I switched to a Piaa 80/80 which has a lumen and candlepower output equal to 100/135. I haven`t had any problems and there are many other Listers that have done the same, but it does limit your ability for much else in the way of other accessories. When I had a couple of my fuse blowing episodes, it was with the stock light, none with the 100W or the current 80W/80W,funny huh? Skip ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 22:16:48 PST From: "Paul Christenson" Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR - fairing wanted >Are you refering to the Tengai fairings? No; I mean something with a real windshield. Something that'll keep the wind, rain, and bugs out of my teeth... ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Nov 1998 23:23:55 -0800 From: "Larry" Subject: Re: (klr650) Engine Problem The cam is worn in the cap areas. The caps are facing the correct way (arrows towards the front of the bike) and the exhaust cam, cam caps, and head all have extensive signs of wear. In short the head is toast. I am looking into ordering a used head but it still looks like around 375 +tax. I have the ability to purchase a new head for 390 + tax so I will buy new before getting a used head. Larry A3 (nursing back to health) A11 (!WOW!) - -----Original Message----- From: Carlos Yonan Gonzalez To: Larry Cc: KLR650 List Date: Wednesday, November 11, 1998 10:00 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) Engine Problem >On Wed, 11 Nov 1998, Larry wrote: >> my exhaust cam was showing extreme signs of wear. So now the head is off >> the bike. When I place the exhaust cam back in the head and snug the cap >> bolts, the cam can wiggle from side to side and up and down (this is bad!). >> The exhaust cam was hitting the head cover and the head itself. That is >> what was causing the noise. >> > >Hi Larry, >Where are your cams worn, on the lobes or where the caps go? This is a >stab in the dark, but the little studs that go in the cam cap holes have a >top side and a bottom side. Take the little stud out and notice that one >side has a taper and the other side is a flat cut. The taper should be on >top, it should go in the cam caps. The flat side should go into the head >itself. Maybe it it is backwards and it could be causing too much >clearance between the cam journals and the cam. I dont know for sure if >this would actually cause a larger clearance, but its worth checking. > >Good Luck, >Carlos > ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V1 #356 ****************************