From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #183 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Thursday, March 25 1999 Volume 02 : Number 183 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:39:49 -0500 From: "Shawn Bryan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?] Vik, I'm sure I'd find some things to add, no question. I'd be using the DS bike for primarily gravel, dirt and other secondary roads and trails here in VT and up into Canada and northern NY and NH. Some paved roads but the VFR loves twisty asphalt! Still waiting for a KTMer to offer some counterpoint :). Shawn Bryan VFR750F, Red, AMA, HRCA, sbryan@tds.net - ----- Original Message ----- From: Vik Banerjee To: KLR LIST Sent: 25 March, 1999 20:16 Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?] > > -----Original Message----- > From: Shawn Bryan > To: Pokluda, Gino F ; KLR LIST > > Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 5:53 PM > Subject: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?] > > > >an issue. But the KTM appears to have a significantly higher level of > >components out the door than the KLR and therefore might not need the > >aftermarket additions of the KLR. If true, then perhaps the bikes are > >closer in cost. > > Shawn, > > Unless you stay clear of any decent stretches of highspeed paved roads > you'll find you'll be buying aftermarket parts for the KTM to get it more > street worthy vs. making the KLR more dirt worthy. If you want a 80%+ > offroad machine the stock KTM may be the ticket. If you want a bike that > can tackle roads and dirt equally the KLR is a good starting point. > > I think the fact you mentioned you customized your VFR says that you > probably (like most of us) enjoy specing out a bike - making it your own. > If you bought a KTM don't you think you'd buy aftermarket stuff? - comfy > seat, luggage rack, maybe a different windshield, etc, etc?? > > As a lurker on the BMW GS list I am always amazed that people buy a $18,000 > bike and then spend $5,000 for add on parts -- especially on a BMW which has > pretty good parts to begin with, but people enjoy tinkering even if the bike > is pretty good to begin with. > > Just some thoughts. > > Cheers, > > Vik > > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:43:04 -0500 From: "Shawn Bryan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: (NKLR650) Re: What about KTM?] I'll drink to that! Shawn Bryan VFR750F, Red, AMA, HRCA, sbryan@tds.net - ----- Original Message ----- From: J.Taylor To: Sent: 25 March, 1999 20:35 Subject: (klr650) Re: (NKLR650) Re: What about KTM?] > After looking at that KTM seat, it makes me thankful for the KLR seat. > Yeah, buying an aftermarket seat would be HIGH prior-I-tie on the KTM. > > Jake, who feels beauty is in the eye of the beer holder > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:48:22 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: [Fwd: What about KTM?] |I'm sure I'd find some things to add, no question. I'd be using the DS bike |for primarily gravel, dirt and other secondary roads and trails here in VT |and up into Canada and northern NY and NH. Some paved roads but the VFR |loves twisty asphalt! Still waiting for a KTMer to offer some counterpoint |:). | |Shawn Bryan Shawn there are several KTM owners on DUST who would be glad to share their experiences... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:36:41 EST From: KenReither@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180 Regarding valve adjustments, I had this uneasy feeling after the first service on my 99 KLR, when I had asked them to record the valve clearances and they wrote down: LI = .004, RI = .004, LE = .006 and RE = .006. Too coincidental, I thought, that all clearances were at exactly at the minimums. Then I read today's postings (400 miles later) and decided to check them myself. My bike is opened up, and I have the mark with the "T" beside it directly over the notch in the inspection hole. The intake cam lobs point toward the rear of the engine, while the exhaust cam lobs point toward the front of the engine, just like the pictures in Eldon Carl's writeup. My .003 gauge will slide easily between the lobs and the shims on the intake side. The .004 can be forced into the LI, but not into the RI. I conclude that I have a loose .003 LI and a .003 RI. As to the exaust side, my .005 will slip in the LE, and a .006 can be forced in. That says loose .005 to me. As to the RE, a .006 will slip in, but a .007 will not. That says .006 to me. Question One: Does this measurement procedure sound correct? Question Two: Seems to me that as long as I've got the thing opened up and will be replacing at least some shims, I should replace all four, using .004 thinner shims on all of them, moving the LI to a loose .007, the RI to a .007, the LE to a loose .009 and a RI to a .010. Does that sound right? Or, should I use .002 thinner shims on all four, shooting for the middle of the acceptable ranges? Or is my thinking all screwed up as usual? Question Three: The manual says use a silicone sealant on the gasket. Is this sealant something I can get at a auto parts house? And do I put the sealant on both sides of the gasket, or just on the bottom side? KenReither (Happiness is motorcycle parts strewn all over the place) 99 KLR650 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:55:42 -0500 From: Robert Tayloe Subject: (klr650) Wheel Balance Juan Villarreal wrote: > > > One thing's for sure. I am still without a wheel balancer (I need some > weights too) The way I balance my tires is to place the axle through the dismounted wheel with the ends of the axle supported by two sawhorses. I spin the tire and mark the top of the tire after it stops rotating using a piece of chalk. The tire is spun and marked, spun and marked several times (usually about 10 iterations). If there are a collection of chalk marks in close proximity, then I add some weight to the tire. For weight, I use solid solder wrapped around the spoke, near the rim. With a bit of experimentation the tire will rotate and stop in a more or less random location (i.e., no heavy spot). I read about this in a motorcycle magazine in the early 1970s. Yep, it really works. You don't need to spend a fortune to balance your tires. Ride Safely, Rob Tayloe Columbus, Ohio ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:06:39 -0600 From: "Ken Belfatto" Subject: (klr650) NKLR Chicago area Riders - Highland House this Sun. If it's not raining, I'm in for Highland House this Sunday (3/28) I'll probably get there a leisurely 9-9:30a Hope to see somebody there - I'll be the loud one that stalls at most stops (till I get the 45 pilot jet). Kenny in S.Elgin A12 Iron Chariot? (has that one been used yet?) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:14:26 -0500 From: Robert Tayloe Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180 KenReither@aol.com wrote: > > Regarding valve adjustments, I just adjusted the valves on my A2. The intake valve clearances were tighter than my thinnest gauge. I ordered several shims from Fred so as to not have to iterate too much. His shim prices are very reasonable. In the end I used shim that allowed the gauge for the minimum clearance to easily slip between the cam and the shim. The next thicker gauge would not fit. For a silicone sealant, I went to the local NAPA and purchased the high temperature RTV tube of silicone. It is a Loctite/Permatex product that is in an orange tube and the silicone is orange. I used a very thin coating on the top of the head where the gasket rests. After seating the gasket and placing the valve cover in place, I wiped off the bit of orange goop that squeezed out. Next time I check the valves, I'm draining the coolant first and removing the dang coolant hose from the top of the radiator. There was some serious cussin' going on as I was trying to get the valve cover back in place without dropping the gasket on the floor. Finally got it back on. Ride Safely, Rob Tayloe Columbus, Ohio ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:15:03 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Valve adjustment... - -----Original Message----- From: KenReither@aol.com To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 6:51 PM Subject: (klr650) Re: klr650-digest V2 #180 |Regarding valve adjustments, I had this uneasy feeling after the first service |on my 99 KLR, when I had asked them to record the valve clearances and they |wrote down: LI = .004, RI = .004, LE = .006 and RE = .006. Too |coincidental, I thought, that all clearances were at exactly at the minimums. | |Then I read today's postings (400 miles later) and decided to check them |myself. My bike is opened up, and I have the mark with the "T" beside it |directly over the notch in the inspection hole. The intake cam lobs point |toward the rear of the engine, while the exhaust cam lobs point toward the |front of the engine, just like the pictures in Eldon Carl's writeup. | |My .003 gauge will slide easily between the lobs and the shims on the intake |side. The .004 can be forced into the LI, but not into the RI. I conclude |that I have a loose .003 LI and a .003 RI. | |As to the exaust side, my .005 will slip in the LE, and a .006 can be forced |in. That says loose .005 to me. As to the RE, a .006 will slip in, but a |.007 will not. That says .006 to me. | |Question One: Does this measurement procedure sound correct? Perfect |Question Two: Seems to me that as long as I've got the thing opened up and |will be replacing at least some shims, I should replace all four, using .004 |thinner shims on all of them, moving the LI to a loose .007, the RI to a |.007, the LE to a loose .009 and a RI to a .010. Does that sound right? Or, |should I use .002 thinner shims on all four, shooting for the middle of the |acceptable ranges? Or is my thinking all screwed up as usual? No, I think you have it perfectly. Eldon Carl recommends .006-.008 for intake during the first 6,000 miles and .008-.010 for exhaust (you did mean RE above didn't you?) You may end up using 4 different shims but be able to use some of the ones you already have...this is where you need to use the shimcalc program, it is amazing...download it at www.ironjungle.com This is Eldon Carl's advice and I follow it... My rountine for valve adjustment on a new KLR engine is as follows. Keep in mind that the stock settings are .004" to .008" for intake and .006" to .010" exhaust. I check the valves at 500, 1500, 3000 miles. I keep them on the loose side, i.e. .006" to .008" intake and .008" to .010" exhaust. At 6000 miles, I do another check and if they haven't moved, I set them at .005" to .007" intake and .008" to .010" exhaust. From 6000 miles on, I only adjust the valves every 10,000 miles. During my 123,000 miles of KLR riding. I've never found my valves out of spec using this method." | |Question Three: The manual says use a silicone sealant on the gasket. Is |this sealant something I can get at a auto parts house? And do I put the |sealant on both sides of the gasket, or just on the bottom side? Yes, you can get it at Checker/Autozone, use it sparingly just in the spots pointed to (the dished parts)..use a torque wrench when retightening... Good on ya for doing this work Ken! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:46:24 -0800 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: (klr650) Re:(NKLR) MTBE BYE BYE Hey here is some good news for a change. The governor of California, Gray Davis, just announced the evil MTBE (methyl tertiary butyl ether) gasoline additive used to allegedly reduce tailpipe emissions will be removed from all Ca. fuel beginning immediately with total removal by the year 2002. The additive has proven to be toxic and responsible for numerous car fires here as well as the source of a raging BIG OIL political debate. This crap is scary. Maybe this Davis guy isn't quite the BOZO I thought he was! Morgan Carlsbad ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:51:48 -0700 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Fw: Tires - -----Original Message----- From: FTabor231@aol.com To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Date: Thursday, March 25, 1999 7:45 PM Subject: Tires |Have any listers gone to straight sport touring tires? what brand and what |kind of tread life did you get? I'm looking for longer life than off-road |capability. It seems that you can go off road in a pinch with street tires |better than you can go long fast distances on DS tires in a pinch. I |appreciate any feedback pro and con. frank |Also remember reading about a lister that manufactures a universal saddlebag |mount system onto which any kind of hard suitcase type luggage, like |Pelicans, can be bolted to avoid the SA cut and run soft luggage grab. Thanks |in advance. frank | ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:34:38 -0500 From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] Any Honda Hooters out there? I'm thinking about going to Honda Hoot in Asheville this June (22nd to the 26th). Any other KLR'sts from the southeast (Flawdah or Jawja) thankin' on goin'? If so let me know. If I go, I can get us PRIMO free camping on nearly 500 acres with new (*clean*) facilities and close proximity to downtown. What more could you ask for (don't answer that!) I'll be leaving from Jacksonville, FL. Any-o-you SoFla addicts interested? Jake, I took an IQ test today and it was negative. I blame the KLR! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:22:52 -0600 (CST) From: rycomm@webtv.net (Ryan Combs) Subject: (klr650) tankbags Hi all, I haven't seen tank bags mentioned for a while, so I thought I would ask. My Kawa taank bag wore out quickly, and I saw the Wolfman bags at Steamboat in September. They showed me an "Expedition" I think it was, designed for the g/s pd bikes. Supposedly it will fit a KLR very well, and hold lots of stuff (like cancerous sandwiches). I was wondering if anyone had used this bag and had any comments. Hope to see you all in Moab (worth the $30) Ryan a3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 23:26:40 EST From: K650dsn@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Wheel Balance In a message dated 3/25/99 6:55:42 PM Mountain Standard Time, nukemoto@earthlink.net writes: << The way I balance my tires is to place the axle through the dismounted wheel with the ends of the axle supported by two sawhorses. >> This is a good method. You are relying on your wheel bearings being inperfect condition, though. The Telefix balancing stand has its own bearings to allow the wheel to spin freely. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:10:18 -0800 From: "ripkid" Subject: RE: (klr650) Fw: Tires It seems that you can go off road in a pinch with street tires |better than you can go long fast distances on DS tires in a pinch. I |appreciate any feedback pro and con. frank - -------- Not good my friend. I'm an old hand at beating on street-bikes off road and can tell you in no uncertain terms that street rubber has NO place on anything other than easy gravel. You need some kind of aggresion in a tire to make any kind of turn off-road...Your best bet is to go with more street oriented tires that have relatively large contact area for the road, yet a bit O' the knob for the occasional easy dirt excursion. Some of these tires get decent tread life and don't cost a bundle, yet will handle the KLR's comfortable top cruising speed with ease. Rik---- Street Dumps = 0 , Dirt dumps = ??? ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:31:28 From: Guy Cheney Subject: (klr650) NKLR BMW GS List Address Hey All! Could one of the resident Beemer boys send the GS list address to me, please! Thanks, Guy ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #183 ****************************