From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #406 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Saturday, May 15 1999 Volume 02 : Number 406 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:01:52 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) KLR Anonymous List... Juan, I received my KLR anonymous list and want to thank you. It gave me a curious sense of comfort to know that the people listed there would be willing to welcome any of us with info and help should we need it. Nice effort. For those who haven't joined I urge you to fill out Juan's form and become part of the borg. Kurt (I was surprised how many folks said no to smoking...) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:51:33 -0700 From: "Vik Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) NKLR- Minimalism >Who the hell needs bark? ;-) > I already own a minimalist KLR - its called a full-suspension mtn bike. I can go everywhere a KLR can go and more. Never needs gas or oil. No motor to break down. I never blow a fuse. Requires minor lubrication and maintenance and the valves never need adjustment. I can pick it up and carry it if something does go wrong. I have a little trailer so I can haul my gear with it. Sure its a bit slower, but think how simple it is...=) Vik ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:36:40 -0700 From: Dean Harrison Subject: (klr650) Re:Steering Head Spanners? Check your local bicycle shop. I haven't done this on the KLR but on the VFR I found that the tool used to adjust the crank bearing on my road bike worked well. It appears similar to the tool shown in the KLR manual. It was manufactured by Park-#HCW5. On the other end is a 32 mm wrench. Might be worth a look. Otherwise I thought it was somewhat common to use a small hammer and a punch for 'fine' tuning this adjustment. FWIW. Dean in Seattle 94 KLR, 95 VFR Tom Meagher wrote: Surely there must be some other source for this simple little tool, besides making one yourself or special ordering it from Kawasaki. I remember that BMW's always came with a wrench for this in their standard tool kits. Any ideas? I found nothing in the archives... ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:54:14 -0700 From: "Vik Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Anonymous List... I think the anonymous idea is great, but I think it should be up on the web as part of the DSN webpage and available to everyone. Many people may want to help, but may not be in a situation where they can offer assistance (live with parents, at school, etc..etc..) and therefore be on the anonymous list - I don't think this should exclude them from getting help when they need it. I got my BMW anonymous book and now I can call up somebody, just about anywhere in the US and Canada if I need emergency help - keep in mind I am not in the book. Its your gig Juan so I certainly respect your right to keep it closed to KLR anonymous members only. On that topic if anyone is travelling through Alberta Canada my contact info is at the URL below. If you need help or info call me - if I have enough time I don't mind doing a bit rescue work within a few hours of Calgary/Canmore. I can haul up to two KLRs or bring you parts/tools. I accept gas money and beer as payment...lol...=) http://www.nucleus.com/%7ecmbt_touring/page10.html Eventually the motorcycle adventure touring list will have such a page, but its focus will be a little more international. I have received several offers from people to have their info posted, but I am trying to catch up at work and get my bike ready for Moab. Cheers, Vik - -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson To: Juan Villarreal ; KLR 650 Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 10:01 AM Subject: (klr650) KLR Anonymous List... >Juan, I received my KLR anonymous list and want to thank you. It gave me a >curious sense of comfort to know that the people listed there would be >willing to welcome any of us with info and help should we need it. Nice >effort. > >For those who haven't joined I urge you to fill out Juan's form and become >part of the borg. > >Kurt (I was surprised how many folks said no to smoking...) > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:01:12 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re:Steering Head Spanners? >Tom Meagher wrote: >Surely there must be some other source for this simple little tool, >besides >making one yourself or special ordering it from Kawasaki. I remember >that >BMW's always came with a wrench for this in their standard tool kits. > >Any ideas? I found nothing in the archives... yes, let's start a tool co-op... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 04:24:48 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque and HP Oilie@aol.com wrote: [Eric's dyno figures] > Actually, Eric, it's the dynomometer you should have tested, because there is > apparently something wrong with it. When torque is measured in lbs-ft and > power is measured in horsepower, they will be numerically equal (i.e., the > two curves will cross) at 5251 RPM. If they don't, there's something wrong A good point and well spotted ;-) Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:45:21 -0700 From: "Dreas Nielsen" Subject: RE: (klr650) Dyno tested KLR Mikuni 38MM, IDS Having traded in my '86 600 for a '98 650 just a year ago, I would say that those extra cc's (or maybe it's the mini-fairing) make the bike run more easily and comfortably at 70+ mph, but don't make a lick of difference down low. In fact, my seat-of-the-pants dyno says that the 600 might even have a little torque advantage down low. Dreas > Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:00:46 +1000 > From: Ted Palmer > > Jeff & Lisa Walker wrote: > [Eric D's 650 peaking at 37.5 hp and Steve J's KLR peaking at 36 hp] > > Stah-rewth cobbers! What are all those extra cc's over the 600B1 > doing? ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:41:54 -0700 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) KLR Recall I blew the head lamp fuse at about 600 miles, they replaced it expeditiously at no charge. I saw no reason to make a federal case out of it. I have since replaced the glass fuse holders with marine blade type holders. I run a 120/100 watt headlamp bulb and have had no further incidents. I suspect this problem results from a vibration problem weakening the fuse filament as opposed to circuit overload. That's just a guess. Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:42:30 From: Guy Cheney Subject: (klr650) Big Gun Clearance Solution Hello All, The recent "collateral damage" to my rear tire due to its contact with the Big Gun silencer has an apparent fix. I've been corresponding off list with Redondo Ron, whose bike was used as the platform for Big Gun's KLR system. His bike is not lowered, and he's running a 130/80 rear tire as opposed to my deceased 130/90 Metzler. Altogether, these two differences reduce the vertical clearance of the silencer pipe to the tire by ~2". I know a lot of folks run the lowering links and I'm sure there's also a substantial number who have 130/90s. Despite my problem with proper fitment, I cannot in good conscience disparage the Big Gun as a product. I hope I'll be able to come to some meeting of the minds with Big Gun so that my opinion of the company also remains favorable. This KLR thing is pretty new to them I think, I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt despite my feeling a bit like an unwitting extension of their R&D effort. Below are my suggestions for ensuring appropriate clearance with the Big Gun, or any after market exhaust system for that matter. First, learn from my experience in terms of "eyeballing" for appropriate clearance. I've laid across the seat and pulled up on the swing arm and had my neighbor sit on the bike while trying to see if there was going to be any contact between the tire and the exhaust. I've also laid a straight edge along the side of the tire to try and get some idea of the path of travel. Trouble is, I just couldn't get the suspension compressed far enough to have a definitive answer. The tire travels through an arc, not merely up and down, and it's also very difficult to get a good line of sight to predict the tire travel. Any question in this regard can be resolved by compressing the rear suspension by using two ratcheting tie down straps - one on each side of the bike looped around the swing arm and rear subframe. Tighten them down evenly to the point where you are CERTAIN that the tire will clear the exhaust as it travels upwards. This is actually a very simple procedure, you just have to remove the side panels and the seat. DO NOT loop the tie down through the luggage rack, however tempting this might be. I for one don't think the rack could take the stress. To effect the necessary clearance on my bike I merely reversed the frame clamp at the end of the head pipe. This only moves the head pipe outboard about 13mm (~1/2") but it is sufficient to swing the silencer out where it won't contact the tire. The canister clears the side cover and bolts to the subframe with a minimum of draw in by the mounting bolts. The silencer pipe also clears the other tight spots, the frame and the rear brake master cylinder. I checked the clearance using the tie down strap method when it was all sewn back up and it is clear that the tire passes by the silencer on its way to making contact with the fender under the seat. BTW, initially I tried shimming the canister at the subframe to get enough clearance. The change in the position of the pipe where it contacted the tire was minimal before the canister began getting too close to the side panel. Yours, Guy Cheney ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:53:18 -0700 From: "Vik Banerjee" Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Clearance Solution >substantial number who have 130/90s. Despite my problem with proper >fitment, I cannot in good conscience disparage the Big Gun as a product. I >hope I'll be able to come to some meeting of the minds with Big Gun so that >my opinion of the company also remains favorable. This KLR thing is pretty >new to them I think, I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt despite >my feeling a bit like an unwitting extension of their R&D effort. Below >are my suggestions for ensuring appropriate clearance with the Big Gun, or >any after market exhaust system for that matter. Maybe I am looking at this wrong, but you are saying that the Big Gun works fine with a stock KLR and a stock size tire. The problem you are having is with a KLR that has suspension modifications and a non-stock tire size - is this correct? If so I can't really see how Big Gun has done anything wrong at all??? I mean are they supposed to design a pipe for every bike and every possible modification to that bike? I would suggest not. As an example I have a '92 VW GTI that has been lowered 2" and has Koni adjustable shocks installed - suspension bracing, etc.... I certainly don't expect part manufacturers to design stuff so it works perfectly with my modified car. When I buy something my first thought is will this fit my car..I do my best to determine this before I buy, but occasionally I run into a problem. Its my problem not the manufacturer's frankly. BTW - many serious VW owners lower their cars and upgrade shocks, but I still don't think its reasonable to expect parts manufacturers to figure out every permutation and combination - and then test them all before providing the part. I am not trying to rag on you, but I think you just need to look at the situation from a different perspective. Cheers, Vik ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:44:22 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Big Gun Clearance Solution - -----Original Message----- From: Guy Cheney To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: May 15, 1999 12:57 PM Subject: (klr650) Big Gun Clearance Solution >Hello All, > >The recent "collateral damage" to my rear tire due to its contact with the >Big Gun silencer has an apparent fix. I've been corresponding off list >with Redondo Ron, whose bike was used as the platform for Big Gun's KLR >system. His bike is not lowered, and he's running a 130/80 rear tire as >opposed to my deceased 130/90 Metzler. Altogether, these two differences >reduce the vertical clearance of the silencer pipe to the tire by ~2". I >know a lot of folks run the lowering links and I'm sure there's also a >substantial number who have 130/90s. Despite my problem with proper >fitment, I cannot in good conscience disparage the Big Gun as a product. I >hope I'll be able to come to some meeting of the minds with Big Gun so that >my opinion of the company also remains favorable. This KLR thing is pretty >new to them I think, I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt despite >my feeling a bit like an unwitting extension of their R&D effort. Below >are my suggestions for ensuring appropriate clearance with the Big Gun, or >any after market exhaust system for that matter. > >First, learn from my experience in terms of "eyeballing" for appropriate >clearance. I've laid across the seat and pulled up on the swing arm and >had my neighbor sit on the bike while trying to see if there was going to >be any contact between the tire and the exhaust. I've also laid a straight >edge along the side of the tire to try and get some idea of the path of >travel. Trouble is, I just couldn't get the suspension compressed far >enough to have a definitive answer. The tire travels through an arc, not >merely up and down, and it's also very difficult to get a good line of >sight to predict the tire travel. Any question in this regard can be >resolved by compressing the rear suspension by using two ratcheting tie >down straps - one on each side of the bike looped around the swing arm and >rear subframe. Tighten them down evenly to the point where you are CERTAIN >that the tire will clear the exhaust as it travels upwards. This is >actually a very simple procedure, you just have to remove the side panels >and the seat. DO NOT loop the tie down through the luggage rack, however >tempting this might be. I for one don't think the rack could take the stress. > >To effect the necessary clearance on my bike I merely reversed the frame >clamp at the end of the head pipe. This only moves the head pipe outboard >about 13mm (~1/2") but it is sufficient to swing the silencer out where it >won't contact the tire. The canister clears the side cover and bolts to the >subframe with a minimum of draw in by the mounting bolts. The silencer pipe >also clears the other tight spots, the frame and the rear brake master >cylinder. I checked the clearance using the tie down strap method when it >was all sewn back up and it is clear that the tire passes by the silencer >on its way to making contact with the fender under the seat. > >BTW, initially I tried shimming the canister at the subframe to get enough >clearance. The change in the position of the pipe where it contacted the >tire was minimal before the canister began getting too close to the side >panel. > >Yours, > >Guy Cheney Guy, Excellent description of how you solved your problem. Glad you worked it out. I do however, have to frown at your R&D impression. Big Gun designed the system to fit the stock KLR. By changing your tire size and suspension travel, your bike is no longer stock. As you are the one who moved the goal posts, why are your impressions of Big Gun (the company), not favorable? Giving them the benefit of the doubt is an odd way of looking at it, as they did their research and designed a system which does fit your bike in its stock form. Arne ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 21:09:56 GMT From: "tom stone" Subject: Re: (klr650) RE: Turn indicator failure (fixed) First off, thanks again to everyone who chipped in with advice. I've been doing my own service work on my dirt bikes for years, but I have no experience with the electrical components of a street legal motorcycle. So now I'm glad I asked for help...the flasher unit looks nothing like an automotive part and it's really packed in there tight with a bunch of other stuff. Anyway, I used Chris Beasley's idea for a jumper around the unit to check my bulbs and wiring. With the jumper in place, all the lights worked fine. Took the flasher to work and had an electrician check it on a multi-meter and, as predicted by another contributor, it registered zero ohms through the flasher unit...dead as a wedge. An easy fix thanks to you guys. By the way, that's my A3's first part failure. On another note. Last Saturday I sent Fred a money order for a low fender and it delivered this morning (Saturday). That's less than seven full days for 1200 miles out for my money order (I'm from Southern Illinois), Fred's turn around, and 1200 miles back with the fender. Again, SATURDAY DELIVERY! Fred...do you sell any KTM parts? > > >tom stone wrote: > > > My turn signals just went completely dead. I believe the rocker switch >is > > working so, could someone save me a little trouble by telling me where >the > > solenoid is located? When I rock the switch with the key on and motor >dead, > > I can hear a single audible click somewhere in the guts of the bike. >But I > > can't tell exactly where it's coming from. > > > > _______________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com > > > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #406 ****************************