From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #409 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Sunday, May 16 1999 Volume 02 : Number 409 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:07:00 -0700 From: George Basinet Subject: Re: (klr650) Getting Serious Bryan Loehr wrote: > > I'm getting serious about buying a KLR. Yesterday my local dealer quoted > $5500 for a stock '99, out the door (California). How does that sound? > > Bryan Loehr Bryan, At the Motorcycle Show in San Mateo, they were listed at $4,700 and change. Add 10% for tax, license and pain it comes up to $5,100. George ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 13:30:58 -0700 From: "Eric & Jill Dietiker" Subject: (klr650) bu-u-u-u-mpy Gripster I just replaced my old rear AM34 Gripster (the new style) with an AM24 Gripster. Now on the highway, I feel like every microbump is being transmitted to my hiney. Or maybe that the Gripster is adding bumps. I am running 30# in the tire. A friend suggested lowering the pressure to 26#, which I will try. I wonder if this is what happens when you go from radial to bias ply tires - less shock absorption. Eric. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:11:43 EDT From: AGKesaris@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Fred & friends: I'm not going to Moab... I called Fred the other day, and talked with him about going out to Moab. I am sure I would enjoy it, but some family matters have arisen and I have to focus in on my significant relationships right now. That's my life thing goin' on, here, so... ANYWAY, FRED: YOU ARE THE BEE'S KNEES, MAN. I hope I'll get to meet you and some of the other folks out there some time... and take a cruise. Meanwhile, take care. Alex Kesaris, San Diego ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:16:41 -0700 (PDT) From: Juan Villarreal Subject: (klr650) Getting Serious - --- Bryan Loehr wrote: > I'm getting serious about buying a KLR. > Yesterday my local dealer quoted > $5500 for a stock '99, out the door > (California). How does that sound? Bryan- These kinds of assessments are hard to make. I have the impression that markets (even within the confines of the U.S.) can vary greatly. I bought my KLR in April of '97 for $4,750 out the door (and that included a three year warranty extension). That was in Wichita, Kansas though, where you can still get 2000 sq ft for under a hundred grand (what would that be in California dollars?). The supply-demand factor also has to be considered... I've heard that historically Kawasaki tends to sell out all their KLRs by early June. Mere conjecture on my part... The price you quoted DOES seem a little steep though, even for La-La Land. Shoot for an out-the-door price of no more than $5000. That should enable you to sleep well. Good luck, and welcome to the cult (the blood initiation ritual awaits...). Juan Villarreal, '97 KLR "The Happy Hooligan" _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 18:22:33 EDT From: LawsonCL@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Getting Serious(ly taken to the cleaners) Outrageous. I paid $4200 plus tax (approx. $160) for my 1999 KLR650--and it was a CA model mistakenly shipped to CO. To its great benefit, it has been de-Californicated. Chris Lawson << I'm getting serious about buying a KLR. Yesterday my local dealer quoted $5500 for a stock '99, out the door (California). How does that sound? >> ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 18:25:24 EDT From: LPetty4585@aol.com Subject: (klr650) KLR Vs. KLX, Just finished a nice off road bout in Mexico, crossed at Progresso beats Brownsville or McAllen, small town not much traffic, the 13T front sprocket is nice but I ate the license tag again, so for those going to Moab and have not mounted the tag up high I recommend it, I lost the tag, luggage rack and other assorted parts found most of them and did the wire tie to get home. My question is how much better offroad is aKLX than the KLR and is it street legal. Thanks Larry ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:22:52 -0700 From: Brian Bonenfant Subject: (klr650) Oil Specific Ratings I know, I know, I am not attempting to start another debate or any sort of controversy.. I just have a specific question that I know you dedicated oil enthusiasts can answer off the top,,, What is the different acronym mean (testing?), that an oil with an API SJ or SH rating have versus an oil with an API SE SF or SG ? Isn't a SJ / SH rating just a more current updated rating with a more stringent procedure it must adhere to before being able to be offered on the shelf ? Please respond off-list to myself directly, not to waste any bandwidth, Thank You. Brian A12CE British Columbia ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:29:07 -0700 From: Tobin Lampson Subject: (klr650) the laser Gino, About your laser. Did it have USFS approved stampage on it? And, what kind of mileage did you wind up getting? Thank You 'Slide' Lampson ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:18:50 -0000 From: "Eric Jasniewicz" Subject: (klr650) miscellaneous ramblings, hp potential, MAP rotor I was given the wonderful opportunity to take Jim Ruggles built up KLR for a spin last week. Woa! The way he built that engine is amazing. There is much more of a difference between his bike and mine (dynojet & IDS), then there is between mine and OEM. There is some serious potential there for those who want to go for it. Of course, he has a custom piston, cams, and homemade pipe, but the potential exists. Jim also has the MAP rotor, and all I can say is this is what the KLR should have had straight from the factory. I strongly recommend this mod, I'm saving up my minnies (I don't earn enough for markies). Eric Jasniewicz Atlanta, GA 1998 KLR 650 www.angelfire.com/ga/ericjazz ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:02:50 -0700 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive Quandry OK, so I'm a progressive kind of guy and I install these Progressive Springs see, just like the instructions says. I measure the oil, first in a beaker then with a stick, just like it says right , I mean yous can't be too careful with progressive stuff, right. Right, sos I put it all back together just like it says, I cut the PVC pipe to 4and a half inches, just like it says right. I torque everything up just so, nice and pretty. No parts left over or nuthin like that see, I got the washer in there, I got the fatso part of the spring at the top, just like it says, right. So now I got this noise. It's at the top, when you just compress or unload the forks. So is this a BAD thing, or should I just turn up the radio? Morgan Kinda confused see ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:07:28 EDT From: AGSholar@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive Quandry I<< So now I got this noise. It's at the top, when you just compress or unload the forks. So is this a BAD thing, or should I just turn up the radio? Morgan >> Morgan, I installed the Progressives a few weeks ago but cut down the stock metal spacer. I noticed a little bit of noise when the engine was off and I bounced the front end up and down. It definitely could not be heard while the engine was running. I just went out to the garage while writing this e-mail and bounced it up and down again. The noise is gone. Try "turning up the radio" for a few days or weeks. Greg, A2 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:18:54 -0400 From: "Bob Zeliff" Subject: Re: (klr650) No more Blown fuses - -----Original Message----- From: Skip Faulkner To: KLR650 Page Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 12:57 AM Subject: (klr650) No more Blown fuses > I forgot to add in the previous post that since I`ve re-wired my bike > larger gauge wire ) and mounted the aircraft circuit breakers, I`ve not had >any power interruptions, and I run an >80watt headlamp and 50watt brake light ( which was blowing a fuse whenever I >hit the brakes, due to the small gauge wire). > >Skip > Skip, When you are running 80 watts plus 50 watts, the stock 10ampFuse should blow. ie 130 / 12 is nearly 11 amps plus the other stuff that is running thru the fuse. Larger wire has no (ok...usually makes it more likely..a very small effect) bearing on fuse blowing. What is the rating on the Aircraft breakers....10amps? I fully agree with you...the location of the KLR's fuse is terrible. Moving it...or breakers to wher they are accessible is a good thing to do. Could you share where you get the A/C breakers, and their cost? Bob A10 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:28:37 -0400 From: "Bob Zeliff" Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque and HP OK...I admit...I don't understand why torque and HP must equal at 5251. Bob A10 - -----Original Message----- From: Ted Palmer To: Oilie@aol.com Cc: klr650 Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 2:24 PM Subject: Re: (klr650) Torque and HP >Oilie@aol.com wrote: >[Eric's dyno figures] >> Actually, Eric, it's the dynomometer you should have tested, because there is >> apparently something wrong with it. When torque is measured in lbs-ft and >> power is measured in horsepower, they will be numerically equal (i.e., the >> two curves will cross) at 5251 RPM. If they don't, there's something wrong > >A good point and well spotted ;-) > >Mister_T > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 00:45:48 +0700 From: "LES" Subject: (klr650) KLR in the dirt..longish Hey folks...took my KLR out into the dirt again this weekend....(spent last weekend in the Aleghanys sp? up in PA...lots of fun.... I put a non-DOT knobby on the back..gotta do the same for the front real soon...I couldn't do anything with the street tire on so off it went.. Anyway the KLR climbs hills like a goat and jumps like a truck....got her about 6 feet up with a decent landing...not to bad consideriing that my left front fork seal is leeching oil like the blood in Amitiville Horror. I had one hard landing where I jumped her at around 30mph...major bottoming..the stock springs weren't up for that and on the second bounce I landed on the gas tank....had a great time riding it out though....had to stop and shake them out at the top of the hill. The lil group that I was with consisted of a XL350, XT350 and a DR350SE..ofcourse there were probably 20 guys on CRs, YZs and RMs and several quads.....the Honda and the much overweight KLR were the best bikes out there IMHO..(we got to ride home afterwards..no trucks for us) but she was a pig in the tight wood trails...some of the trails were so tight I had maybe an inch on each side of the bars....The Acerbis rallies did their job well...I was climbing a steep hill that drops at the top...well the front end left the ground and when she came down a nice lil sapling was waiting for me....popped the tree gave it gas and kept going, heck only option was to roll back down the hill on my ass, so I gunned it.....ran inot some sand in one section..she sunk like the Titanic..front end just wollowed and stopped...way to heavy in the nose...the 650's power is awesome when gunning up hills and the heavy front end comes in handy then...climbed a hill that was near straight up about 60 feet high...no problem in 3rd....sweet...she's a true goat up the hill.....climbs nearly as well as my old RM250 did....just not a quick at doing it....if you wanna ride KLR in some awesome dirt and your ever in the Washington D.C.area i'll take you up there...... Things I gotta buy...skid plate, master cylinder guard, DR650 foot pegs or equiv, knobbies all around, Progressives and a bigger camel back...well folks enjoy the ride and let the KLR free..... Les 89KLR650 93KLR650 "Parts Bike" 96 GSX750F Katana 88NX250 85XR350 85 200X Going to pick up an 89 LT250S Quad this week...... More toys to come....find a 16 year old who wants to buy a car..and give him cash for his bike...that is my policy...makes you both happy...then he will do the same when he gets old like me...Enjoy ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:33:43 EDT From: WingRJ@aol.com Subject: Re: (klr650) need countershaft help In a message dated 5/15/99 6:04:01 PM, AGSholar@aol.com writes: >Then I could put small amounts of JB >Weld on the splines and then slide the sproket on and let the JB Weld harden. >When the JB Weld hardened, I should have a pretty good fit. If the JB >Weld and sprocket sticks to the countershaft, I could use a wheel bearing puller >to pull it off in another 15,000 miles when the sprocket needs replacing. > I'm afraid that if I do not do anything that the splines will be completely >worn in about another 5000 to 10000 miles. It appears from the shop manual >that the cases would have to be split to replace this shaft. Any advice >would be appreciated. This same thing has happened to me. First, I'd advise against the JB Weld, as play is desirable. The problem lies in the retainer. Once installed, the amount of play is designed into the system. My problem showed itself when I rolled the bike from the garage to the street, turned back to get my helmet, and saw a trail of oil. What will happen when the knobs are worn down is the sprocket will be allowed to move outward on the shaft. Behind the sprocket is an oil seal. This seal will slide out along with the shaft, and pressurized oil will be pumped out of the casings. My solution; I looked for a retainer of better quality. I tried looking for other brands that were compatible, found none. I did find the cover plate to your standard electrical gavalnized steel box, the one with the hole in it, to be an exact fit to the outer diameter of the shaft. I fashioned two crescent retainers, with holes to allow the 10mm retaining bolts. I laid the stock retainer over the hole in the box lid, traced out the shape. Cut out to the shape of the retainer, then drilled the holes for the two 10mm bolts. Then laid the piece to where the holds line up horizontally, and cut vertically the piece in half. I made several of these retainers, figuring I check the wear more often and replace as necessary. However I found the gavalnized steel wore quite well. Example: My 1st KLR had 63K miles when I retired it. The stock retainer lasted about 15K miles before I noticed the problem. The first retainer I made lasted about 40K, before I replaced it. I didn't think it needed replacement, but was doing a DP event and though it wise. The second lasted until I sold the bike. Now, if I were smart, I'd make this a replacement for OEM parts and sell for a profit. Nuff said. I have a picture of the layout somewhere, and as soon as I find it, I'll post an illustration up on alt.binnaries.motorcycles, then post a message here and let ya'll know. Good Luck Viewed best in the text font 'Courier' ___ /___\ (!* *!) __\^-^/__ / ___ \ Bob Wing _/ |___| \_ (__\=/ \=/__) wingrj@aol.com O=|_[ ]_|=O \.---./ | = = | | =.-.= | !_|| ||_! =|| ||= <| |> | | | | _____`-'_____ * I wish I could go through life * Like I go through traffic ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:52:09 -0700 From: "Jeff & Lisa Walker" Subject: Re: (klr650) need countershaft help Right, had sort of the same problem on my A3. What I had was the splines on the shaft were worn where the countershaft sprocket was kind of wobbly from side to side, even with a new sprocket and keeper. So I wondered what to do too. Here's a piece of info I need to know: Is there excessive play when rotating the sprocket forward and rearward? If not, the side to side radial play can be fixed. Here's what to do. On the DSN website, go to the links and vendors page. There you'll find a phone number for a Mr. Jake Jakeman. This gentleman has these countershaft sprocket shims that he gets through his machine shop. These shims are of various thicknesses, and what you do is take off the sprocket, put a shim or three on the shaft, then put the sprocket and keeper back on. It requires some experimentation to find the right thickness, and Jake will do a much better job of explaining it on the phone. Anyway, this will take the side to side wobble out of your sprocket. If there is rotational play front to back, you have to decide at what point am I likely to strip this shaft altogether? And you can ride on that shaft until that point, before you either split the case and replace the countershaft, or buy a new bike. I must say that the cost of those shims was a song, and Jake is a really cool guy to talk to. I found the number for you: Jake Jakeman - Quality long center stand bolts and counter shaft shims - 1-435-387-5575 Jeff--A3 (Us high milage early edition riders have to stick together!) >Based on a previous lister's advice, I checked the keeper plate for my front >sprocket and it was terribly worn, so much that it would allow the sprocket >to move to the left about 1/16". This is not a big deal since it is a $5 >part from the local dealer. After removing the sprocket, I noticed that the >splines where the sprocket resides were quite worn. Instead of having that >square notched look, they were more of a triangular shape. The sprocket was >extremely sloppy on the shaft. I have ordered a new chain and front and rear >sprockets. My question is regarding how to handle the worn countershaft >splines. The new sprocket will probably not be as sloppy as the old one, but >I know it will not fit as it should. I was considering spraying a non-stick >agent, like PAM, on the countershaft. Then I could put small amounts of JB >Weld on the splines and then slide the sproket on and let the JB Weld harden. > When the JB Weld hardened, I should have a pretty good fit. If the JB Weld >and sprocket sticks to the countershaft, I could use a wheel bearing puller >to pull it off in another 15,000 miles when the sprocket needs replacing. >I'm afraid that if I do not do anything that the splines will be completely >worn in about another 5000 to 10000 miles. It appears from the shop manual >that the cases would have to be split to replace this shaft. Any advice >would be appreciated. >Greg, A2, 15,000 miles > ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #409 ****************************