From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #416 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Wednesday, May 19 1999 Volume 02 : Number 416 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:58:19 -0400 From: Bill Haycock Subject: Re: (klr650) Scottoiler installation - KLR650 Tom Meagher wrote: > Bill, > Great article! Nice Installation. > > One question though, are you concerned about the "injector tube" bouncing > around and being caught in the sprocket? I guess time will tell. Yes, that has been a concern to me. The reason I went with the rubber mounting units is that they provide much more stability to the drip tube then other mounting systems available in the kit. Initially, I used the metal clip bolted to the plastic chain guide but when i put the drip tube assembly to it and clamped it with the one small clamp provided I decided it was not rigid enough. I removed the metal clamp and went with the two rubber mounts. The rubber mounts hold the drip tube very securely (very tight fit, need to grease the drip tube to get it through the holes in the rubber mounts). A friend of mine in the UK has used this mounting method for four or five years and it is still holding strong! Of course, time will tell! I will be riding the KLR out to Moab from Georgia (and back) and this will provide an excellent test of the unit. I'll report my findings when I return from Moab. Keep in mind though, that if the drip tube were to brush up against the sprocket the worst that could happen is that it gets worn down or maybe flung off. It is clear of the sprocket attaching bolts so it would simply rub up against the smooth part of the sprocket. There is an extra drip tube supplied in the kit. We will have to wait and see. I don't think it is going to be a problem though. > > > Also, I thought Scottoiler suggested having the drip fall on the rollers, > just before the sprocket, and not on the side plates. Following is taken from the instructions with the Scottoiler kit: "Bend the sleeve #18 to drop oil approx 2mm above the inner side-plates of the chain at the 6 o'clock position alongside the rear sprocket".... Bill > > > Tom Meagher > Houston TX > A13 > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:11:30 EDT From: OlZorro@aol.com Subject: (klr650) Roomate in Moab? Anybody interested in bunking on the rollaway in my room. Contact me off list and we'll discuss details. Non-smoker, non-snorer, please. Relatively civilized. John Paul Gray Dana Point CA 94 ST1100 95 KLR650 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:20:58 -0400 From: duftler@us.ibm.com Subject: (klr650) NKLR- Life Brite: additional observations >They look and work good...but try doing a group ride for 4 hours on twisty >roads behind someone who has these things installed....just as you set up >for the corner and the breaking point...waaaammm...your blind...How did the >sun move over there....??? anyway we now move the folks with these to the >back of the line, so as not to blind the fellow riders...but I agree, you >can really see them well...you just have to be sure and not be looking in >their general direction at moments when sight is >needed......safety.........enjoy Les...A3 What about a small inline switch (or a quick disconnect) towards the back of the bike? You could disable the lights when riding with others. (Or when in stealth mode.) Matt Duftler Tarrytown, NY A9 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:50:33 -0400 From: Bill Haycock Subject: (klr650) Keihin CVK40 Article There is a new article just posted to the KLR web page - Keihin CVK40 Article by Ron LaMantia. This is a great resource for those wanting to know exactly how a carb works. The article is five pages long, detailed and comprehensive. Check it out at: http://www.dualsport.org/cvcarb/index.html You will also find a link to the article on both the Dual Sport Home Web Page and the KLR specific web page. Many thanks to Ron for a great effort and a very useful article! Bill ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:38:47 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Roomate in Moab?...NKLR > >Non-smoker, non-snorer, please. Relatively civilized. > >John Paul Gray >Dana Point CA ...that narrow the choices pretty good on this list....(g)...Actually, call Jake Jakeman, he is thinking of canceling his cabin reservation and tenting it... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:57:07 -0700 (PDT) From: dan shaw Subject: (klr650) valves valve VALVES! all this talk about valves... i checked my valves the other day and the exhaust clearance is .005 on both valves. so im gonna have to get some shims. my bike is an 89 klr and i didnt remove the tensioner bolt/ spring when i checked them. i put everything back together and it seems ok. what is the purpose of removeing the tensioner bolt and spring? should i do it when i open it up again to adjust them? thanks! dan _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:10:44 -0600 From: "Fred Hink" Subject: Re: (klr650) Exhaust Modification Make sure that you have an EAR baffle inside the EAR can. I have seen racing baffles inside the EAR cannisters. You can tell by removing the end cap and if you can see straight through then you have a racing series. If your baffle is offset and there are two baffles then you have the EAR or quiet series baffle. Repacking the fiberglass packing will help. If this isn't enough then you can take out some of the discs to help make it more quiet. I wouldn't go less than 4 or 5 discs total. This is only for the EAR pipe. If you have an IDS the discs are smaller so you will need more. Fred - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 10:31 PM Subject: (klr650) Exhaust Modification > Greetings; > > Any ideas on how I might tone down the volume on my Supertrap E.A.R.? It > came with the bike, it's light, resullts in more power, but is way too loud. > Suggestions are appreciated. > > Go ride. > > John Paul Gray > Dana Point CA > > 94 ST1100 > 95 KLR650 > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 02:39:54 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) valves valve VALVES! dan shaw wrote: > i checked my valves the other day and the exhaust clearance is .005 on > both valves. so im gonna have to get some shims. my bike is an 89 klr > and i didnt remove the tensioner bolt/ spring when i checked them. i I you didn't actually remove the cams as well, then there is no problem. The problem starts if you remove the cams and leave the tensioner alone. The tensioner takes up all the slack it can, and when you bolt the cams back in you can overtighten the camchain in the process, assuming it all goes back together at all. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 02:14:24 +1000 From: Ted Palmer Subject: Re: (klr650) Bogdan's delima Fred Hink wrote: [...] > any sort of backup or spare parts he has turned to me. What is the > collective experience of using a chain with out the connector clip on a DiD A couple of times my RC17 refused to keeps its clip intact. I first noticed its absence after a ride from Melbourne to Sydney. (maybe 600 miles). Who knows how long it had been missing. I bought a new master link in Sydney and fitted the clip to my existing link. After riding back to Melbourne the clip was gone again. So I just rode that chain clipless until the chain wore out. I did keep an eye on the link during stops and general maintenance but the sideplate never moved. If the link needed the tool to press it together in the first place, then there is a fair chance that it will stay in place. If Bogdan gets worried, he might try something like lockwire around the exposed ends of the pins, or just Silastic the ends of the pins to the sideplate. Mister_T ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:21:11 -0700 From: "Robert Morgan" Subject: Re: (klr650) Bogdan's delima I for one am not the least bit worried about Bogdan being broken down in Mexico. I have worked with many, many Mexican mechanics over the years. Bicycle, boat, and automotive mechanics. These people have a genetic disposition for repairing anything with almost no resources at all. I would be more worried for him if he were here in this country and had to rely only on the "dealer." No worries Mon, we can feex it. Morgan (Made "Honorary Mexican" in 1968 by bicycle mechanic Emeritus Deluxe, Narcisso Sandoval Corral, Best damn Mexican in the whole Chew S. A.........just ask him! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:28:56 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) valves valve VALVES! >dan shaw wrote: > >> i checked my valves the other day and the exhaust clearance is .005 on >> both valves. so im gonna have to get some shims. my bike is an 89 klr >> and i didnt remove the tensioner bolt/ spring when i checked them. i > >I you didn't actually remove the cams as well, then there is no >problem. >The problem starts if you remove the cams and leave the tensioner >alone. The tensioner takes up all the slack it can, and when you >bolt the cams back in you can overtighten the camchain in the process, >assuming it all goes back together at all. > >Mister_T maybe someone can straighten this out because Eldon says it is important to remove the tensioner bolt/spring on pre-96 models...people have said that there is a "slipper" to be concerned with. Here is Dave W's post from the archives: > > > > Since you are doing a 500 mile check I will assume your bike is a 96 or > > newer. Your can skip this part to just check them. Yes its the bolt label > > B on page 3-6. > > Hmmm, I wouldn't skip this step. There is a "slipper" for the cam chain inside > the valve cover. When you remove this cover, with the chain tensioner "loaded" > the tensioner might tense up a click. Then when you torque the cover back up > the chain will be one click too tight. I'd go with Eldon's method, unload > tensioner, > remove cover, replace & torque cover, reload tensioner. > Great to have you in the club! > Chris Chris on a 96 or newer the slipper is bolted to the head not the cover. So I see no reason to remove the tensioner bolt just to check the valves. Dave W. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:32:02 PDT From: "Conall O'Brien" Subject: Re:NKLR humor, was (klr650) Bogdan's delima I like the "clipless wonder" award as best suggestion. >From: "Kathleen" >Reply-To: "Kathleen" >To: "KLRlist" >Subject: Re:NKLR humor, was (klr650) Bogdan's delima >Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 01:34:58 -0700 > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Sarah Barwig >To: KLR list >Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 6:56 PM >Subject: Re: (klr650) Bogdan's delima > > > >award - perhaps a goldcovered master link connector clip? name... hmm. >lemme > >think 'bout that one for a bit... > > > >Sarah > > >How about this for a name: The Anual Goldcovered Master Link Connector >Clip >Award > >Kathleen > > > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:42:09 -0700 (PDT) From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" Subject: Re: (klr650) Bogdan's delima - --- Fred Hink wrote: > I just got a call from lister Bogdan who is > somewhere in Mexico. After all > the fuss he made about getting the master link on > his chain on his KLR he > finds it is now missing the connector clip. Being > that far from home with > any sort of backup or spare parts he has turned to > me. What is the > collective experience of using a chain with out the > connector clip on a DiD > X-ring chain? ************************************ I have in an emergency situation (I dropped the clip though the wood bridge into the creek!) used a thin piece of wire wrapped around the "posts" of the master link the same place the clip would rest and tieing the center of the loop with wire forming a figure eight. This little fix held until I replaced the chain! I forgot to replace the fix with a clip when I got back, and it held for at least a thousand miles of dirt/street riding. === Rev. Chuck '99 KLR651 :^)>+ _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:51:20 -0700 (PDT) From: "Rev. Chuck MacKarness" Subject: Re: (klr650) Bogdan's delima - --- S2Mumford@aol.com wrote: > << Either way I think he should we should give him > an award...what should we > call it...? > > Kurt >> ********************** How about: "The un-kept Master Award" A master link clip on a key chain... === Rev. Chuck '99 KLR651 :^)>+ _____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:38:35 -0700 From: Christopher J Beasley Subject: Re: (klr650) valves valve VALVES! Kurt Simpson wrote: > >dan shaw wrote: > > > >> i checked my valves the other day and the exhaust clearance is .005 on > >> both valves. so im gonna have to get some shims. my bike is an 89 klr > >> and i didnt remove the tensioner bolt/ spring when i checked them. i > > > >I you didn't actually remove the cams as well, then there is no > >problem. > >The problem starts if you remove the cams and leave the tensioner > >alone. The tensioner takes up all the slack it can, and when you > >bolt the cams back in you can overtighten the camchain in the process, > >assuming it all goes back together at all. > > > >Mister_T > > maybe someone can straighten this out because Eldon says it is important to remove the > tensioner bolt/spring on pre-96 models...people have said that there is a "slipper" to be > concerned with. Here is Dave W's post from the archives: > > > > > > > Since you are doing a 500 mile check I will assume your bike is a 96 or > > > newer. Your can skip this part to just check them. Yes its the bolt label > > > B on page 3-6. > > > > Hmmm, I wouldn't skip this step. There is a "slipper" for the cam chain inside > > the valve cover. When you remove this cover, with the chain tensioner "loaded" > > the tensioner might tense up a click. Then when you torque the cover back up > > the chain will be one click too tight. I'd go with Eldon's method, unload > > tensioner, > > remove cover, replace & torque cover, reload tensioner. > > Great to have you in the club! > > Chris > > Chris on a 96 or newer the slipper is bolted to the head not the cover. So > I see no reason to remove the tensioner bolt just to check the valves. > > Dave W. I'd still 'reload' the tensioner at this point as the '89 has the slipper in the cam cover. b ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 16:12:39 PDT From: "Conall O'Brien" Subject: (klr650) My New shoei Duotech NKLR Hello listers, Just received a Duotech from Yamaha Suzuki of Texas for $150. (Closeout price). Helmets are 50% off. 817-285-9999. Better hurry if interested,not sure if this offer is still valid. I'm going out for a ride to see I like it.Oh yeah ask for Matt and tell him you heard it on the internet. Ciao, Conall PS Thanks for the tip Mike! Conall A4 KLR650 http://www.angelfire.com/co/klr650/index.html _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #416 ****************************