From: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com (klr650-digest) To: klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Subject: klr650-digest V2 #435 Reply-To: klr650 Sender: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Errors-To: owner-klr650-digest@lists.xmission.com Precedence: bulk klr650-digest Tuesday, May 25 1999 Volume 02 : Number 435 ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:07:33 -0600 From: "Pokluda, Gino F" Subject: RE: (klr650) Valve Questions >>Gino can talk about a tire. Fred can talk about a carb kit. Am I to believe that all Gino knows are tires? I don't believe it. Am I to think that if Fred can't sell something he doesn't give a shit? I don't believe this either. I know people have lives and are busy, but today is my only maintenance day I have, before I go back to work - and then depart for Moab.<< Sorry I missed your message. What were you specific questions? When all else fails, check out the archives. We have talked about valve adjustments extensively on the list. Gino ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:33:54 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: (klr650) Valve Adjustment help... Arne, I can understand your stress but no one has dissed you here. I just reread your post and this is the only question I can find: >HERE IT IS: While the more common finding seems to be that the exhaust >clearances tend to tighten up over time/milage, does the opposite hold true >for the intakes??? Do they loosen over time??? Did you see Jeff's response? He was all over it....again, the valves tend to tighten intake and exhaust. So, adjust them to .006" intake and .008" exhaust per Eldon's instructions (+/- .001"). We love you Arne...we really do...you big hunk of burning love (g)... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:37:23 -0400 From: motormark@mindspring.com Subject: (klr650) Progressive Question Last night I was giong to intsall Progressive springs, part#11-1128 on my A-13, and I took out the stock spring and compared it to the progressive. The stock spring is larger in diameter than the progressive. Will this work, or do I need different springs? Mark Wilson www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/6419 KLR-650 A-13 Warthogg Stone Mountain, Ga. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:42:40 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive Question >Last night I was giong to intsall Progressive springs, part#11-1128 on my >A-13, and I took out the stock spring and compared it to the progressive. >The stock spring is larger in diameter than the progressive. Will this work, >or do I need different springs? > >Mark Wilson >www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/6419 >KLR-650 A-13 Warthogg >Stone Mountain, Ga. that is the correct spring Mark, you're fine...just cut a 1/2" off the spacer or build a new one...and change your fork oil... Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:35:43 +0100 From: "Andy Burton" Subject: Re: (klr650) Need rear tire choice Pirelli do an excellent range of enduro tyres. I would strongly recommend the MT80 as an alternative to the Gripster. Andy - -----Original Message----- From: Jean Philippe Bagel To: 'klr650@lists.xmission.com' Date: 18 May 1999 17:19 Subject: (klr650) Need rear tire choice >Hi, > >Got a puncture yesterday on my rear tire (4,000 miles DUNLOP stock). The >tire is pretty nicely worn out, as there's not much knobbies left in the >center of it. I ride 80% street. > >I've been satisfied with the stock tire, and was thinking about going back >to a very similar tire. However, I'd like to hear from everyone just to make >sure there's not an obviously better choice. > >Thx in advance. > >-JP > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:24:58 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: (klr650) Re: KLR650 The two plastic, coin-slotted gizmos are where you will turn your motor over and sight the top dead center mark. 17mm on the larger gizmo - counter clockwise rotation - while watching through the smaller gizmo. There are a few different marks that will go by, but you want to line up the "T" which is next to the three slash marks. The lobes of your cams should now be pointing towards the outside. If they are inwards, you have the wrong "T" - keep going. The "cap" washer and sring, is really a 'Bolt" washer and spring. It is on the left side of the bike, down low, behind the other previous gizmos. Removing the bolt, copper coloured washer, and spring will create enough chain slack to allow you to lift the cams to get at the shims, without creating so much as to risk jumping a tooth on the cam chain sprockets. The removal of the spring also prevents the tensioner from racheting any tighter. Good luck, Arne - -----Original Message----- From: VanTwuyver Steve To: 'alarsen@rapidnet.net' Date: May 25, 1999 9:59 AM Subject: KLR650 >Hi Arne, > >>From past experience, valve clearances tend to lessen over time - both >intake and exhaust. This is due to the valve sinking further into the seat. >Although valve mushrooming would increase the clearance, but that typically >is not what is happening. > >I bought my 1998 KLR a couple of weeks ago with 995 miles on it. It was >never serviced and I have only ridden it twice since purchasing it (shame on >me). Haven't got around to registering it yet, although it is insured now. >Anyway, I have been going through it - cleaning the air filter, topping and >charging the battery, changing the oil etc. Now I am just about ready to do >the valves following Carl Eldon's guide - tank is off, fan is off, coil is >off and the motor mount is next. (I won't be able to work on it again until >after memorial day). > >Now for my question: where is this famous cap, washer and spring that the >article refers to? Is it refering to the two plastic gizmos with the >coin-sized slot? Thanks, > >Regards, >steven ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:29:00 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Questions - -----Original Message----- From: Jeff & Lisa Walker To: Arne Larsen ; KLR 650 Date: May 25, 1999 10:04 AM Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Questions > > >What are you worried about? Rookie paranoia I guess... >I deleted your origional post, so I >don't remember your questions....But from what I remember, you >got your cover off, and checked the clearances, and exchanged a >few shims.....Make sure you maintain the valve timing >(read--don't skip teeth on the cam chain), and get the valves in >the tolerance range. Too late... but I know how to correct this particular hurdle now =^) >It doesn't really matter too much as for >should you go for a certain portion of the range, and try to >guestimate how the wear will go. Do this, shoot for the middle, >that way if it goes either way you'll be covered. Some highly >paid mechanical engineers (what I aspire to be) at Kawa designed >the motor to run within that tolerance range, so as long as its >between the lines, don't fret it. I've heard that Eldon >recommends setting the exhaust valves loose for so many thousand >miles, and there might be some truth to that, but I don't see any >harm in just setting them to the factory tolerance. You're next >valve adjustment is 5500 miles away, right? The motor won't fry, >its not that critical, just as long as you are in the range. >Make sure you keep track of what you set them at, for refference >at your next adjustment. If it will make you feel better, set >them in the upper 50% of the tolerance range, and recheck them at >3000 miles. You know what is involved in the job now, and the >more you do it, the quicker you get at it. Thanks. >Did you find a micrometer yet? I got mine from Sears, and it >seems pretty accurate. Took the shims to the shop for exchange. One 265 I had actually measured 269 on an expensive digital micrometer. >Remember, only a very thin bead of RTV along the left underside >of the valve cover gasket, where the half plugs are, and be very >carefull with the torque on your valve cover bolts, lest you >strip them. Thank you, thank you. >I wish I could go to Moab, but I'm studying for finals. That's >why I was up late last night. > >Jeff Next year. Arne ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:31:29 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Valve Questions >Sorry I missed your message. What were you specific questions? When all >else fails, check out the archives. We have talked about valve adjustments >extensively on the list. > >Gino Spent hours there. There just seemed to be a few discrepencies that made me paranoid. I know you're busy. Sorry if I came off sounding a little hard-core. I'll dig up the other post and forward it to you. Arne ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:37:47 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: (klr650) Re: Valve Adjustment help... Thanks Kurt. I could really use a hug right now... My valve changing partner was of the belief that while the exhausts tighten; the intakes loosen. I phoned him and he can't recall where he heard this from. He seems to think it came from a dealer that he asked a while back. You are right, I think Jeff covered it nicely. His theory (as to why exhausts tighten faster) even seems to make sense =^) See you next week - Hey! That sounds kinda cool =^) Arne - -----Original Message----- From: Kurt Simpson To: alarsen@rapidnet.net ; KLR List Date: May 25, 1999 10:42 AM Subject: Valve Adjustment help... >Arne, I can understand your stress but no one has dissed you here. I just reread your post and >this is the only question I can find: > >>HERE IT IS: While the more common finding seems to be that the exhaust >>clearances tend to tighten up over time/milage, does the opposite hold true >>for the intakes??? Do they loosen over time??? > >Did you see Jeff's response? He was all over it....again, the valves tend to tighten intake and >exhaust. So, adjust them to .006" intake and .008" exhaust per Eldon's instructions (+/- >.001"). We love you Arne...we really do...you big hunk of burning love (g)... > >Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:39:20 -0700 From: "Arne Larsen" Subject: Re: (klr650) Progressive Question Run the part # through the archives, but I think it's the same one I put in... works GREAT! Arne - -----Original Message----- From: motormark@mindspring.com To: klr650@lists.xmission.com Date: May 25, 1999 10:48 AM Subject: (klr650) Progressive Question >Last night I was giong to intsall Progressive springs, part#11-1128 on my >A-13, and I took out the stock spring and compared it to the progressive. >The stock spring is larger in diameter than the progressive. Will this work, >or do I need different springs? > >Mark Wilson >www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/6419 >KLR-650 A-13 Warthogg >Stone Mountain, Ga. > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:38:33 +1000 From: "Hauck, Michael MG" Subject: (klr650) Time to replace the rear tire at 3200 miles!...How about 60% off- road : 40% on-road? Old story...fast wear on the rear stock tire... My usage is 50:50, but the 50% off-road is on pretty rough terrain (Tucson AZ: desert - hard pack and crossing soft washes, mountains/rocky terrain - Mt. Lemmon, high temperatures) so I might need a 60% off : 40% on-road tire. I would like a tire that wears better than stock, has good thickness/strength to protect against lovely desert foliage, and still "works" on the road. I am pretty conservative on the road in corners, as my reading indicates that this is where many accidents occur (esp. operator error - too fast...). Summary: * long-life * 60:40 relatively aggressive tread * thick 4-ply? tire against thorns (I'll get a thick tube too ; don't like slime) * comfortable on the road, but not necessarily high performance on road * good to at least 95 mph (just in case) ; but typically I run 50-75 mph on road and 20-45 mph off-road I checked out the manufacturers' web sites but they typically contain very little info and always recommend more street oriented tires using their "fitment guides". Our archives are running very slow (poss. my server) and I haven't been able to find a good summary. I think I have narrowed it down to 3 tires (per dennis kirk catalogue - good pic's & selection) in descending order: 1. Metzeler MCE Karoo $83 ; S-rated to 106 mph ; Dualsport designed, aggressive, DOT, reinforced carcass (I like that for desert riding). 2. Bridgestone TW22R $84 Trailwing ; Dualsport ; aggressive, DOT, 3. Pirelli MT70's - maybe not aggressive enough off-road? wear-life? Others?: Dunlop D606 - this looks more aggressive, like the Pirelli MT21's ; maybe too aggressive and fast-wearing if I spend half my time on the street? IRC's GP110 - I read some comments on weak sidewalls? Is 4-ply better than 3-ply? What are these P- S- and H- ratings? Any and all opinions are appreciated in the great tire debate! Thanks in advance! EOM NOTICE - This message contains information intended only for the use of the addressee named above. It may also be confidential and/or privileged. If you are not the intended recipient of this message you are hereby notified that you must not disseminate, copy or take any action in reliance on it. If you have received this message in error please notify The Broken Hill Proprietary Company Limited immediately via mailto:postmaster@bhp.com.au. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:57:57 -0600 From: "Kurt Simpson" Subject: Re: (klr650) Re: Valve Adjustment help... >My valve changing partner was of the belief that while the exhausts tighten; >the intakes loosen. I phoned him and he can't recall where he heard this >from. He seems to think it came from a dealer that he asked a while back. >You are right, I think Jeff covered it nicely. His theory (as to why >exhausts tighten faster) even seems to make sense =^) Arne, this is the best post I can remember. It is in our archives and comes from the Hinkster. I think it is fair to assume that for most of us (Bogdan excepted) all valves are going to tend to tighten: Fred wrote: It is the valve face and the valve seat that does the wearing. The valve will wear into the seat and move the valve towards the cams and shims. As long as you keep good oil in your bike then the cams and shims hardly ever have any wear. Or at least the wear on the valve face and seat are more than the wear on the cam and shim. I think alot of the wear is determined by the speed you run your engine at too. The higher RPMs you run at the more wear at the cams and shims (loose clearance) and the slower you run the more wear at the valve and seat (tight clearance). Kurt > >See you next week - Hey! That sounds kinda cool =^) > >Arne > >-----Original Message----- >From: Kurt Simpson >To: alarsen@rapidnet.net ; KLR List > >Date: May 25, 1999 10:42 AM >Subject: Valve Adjustment help... > > >>Arne, I can understand your stress but no one has dissed you here. I just >reread your post and >>this is the only question I can find: >> >>>HERE IT IS: While the more common finding seems to be that the exhaust >>>clearances tend to tighten up over time/milage, does the opposite hold >true >>>for the intakes??? Do they loosen over time??? >> >>Did you see Jeff's response? He was all over it....again, the valves tend >to tighten intake and >>exhaust. So, adjust them to .006" intake and .008" exhaust per Eldon's >instructions (+/- >>.001"). We love you Arne...we really do...you big hunk of burning love >(g)... >> >>Kurt > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:10:12 -0400 From: "J.Taylor" Subject: (klr650) [NKLR] 'bout to buy a GPS I can't resist it any longer. I "found" a spare $200 in an account from long ago and thought I'd buy a GPS for use on my 30' sailboat (and sometimes on my KLR, although not often). Any suggestions from current GPS users? Any to stay away from? I want to stay in the $100-200 range in case I drop it overboard, step on it in the cabin or some other untoward, idiotic event. Magellan makes a rudimentary unit for ~ $100 and I have seen others advertised recently for $150-175 (I forget the brands). Your thoughts? ------------------------------ End of klr650-digest V2 #435 ****************************